Sewer outlet to the roof. What is a drain pipe, why is it needed and how to install it? Fan outlet to the roof - basic rules

A sewerage or ventilation pipe is a necessary attribute of any drainage system waste water and in multi-storey building, and in a private cottage. What is a vent pipe needed for? Installing such a pipe simultaneously solves two problems. Firstly, gases are removed from the pipeline network through ventilation. Secondly, ventilation is needed to maintain constant pressure in the pipe system, since when a large volume of water is discharged into the sewer, a vacuum of air occurs.

What is a fan pipe? The pipe that connects the sewer riser to the atmosphere is usually called a fan pipe. The presence of such a pipe prevents the occurrence of vacuum in the system, which, in turn, prevents the operation of the water valves from being disrupted.

In the absence of a drain pipe, when a large amount of water is released, the water seals in all devices located above may break. And through empty siphons it will begin to flow into the premises. bad smell sewerage.

The need to use vent pipes

According to building regulations, a sewerage system without a drain pipe can be built in a one-story house. This allowance is based on the fact that small houses cannot generate a large volume of wastewater at the same time.

However, a drain pipe for sewerage in a private house will not be superfluous in a low-rise building. Installing a pipe is necessary if, when simultaneously draining a large volume of water, the cross-section of the riser pipe is completely blocked.

In most cases, the size of the hole in the flush cistern is 70 mm, and the drainage from the toilet is carried out using a pipe having a diameter of 110 mm. The bath outlet is assembled from pipes with a cross-section of up to 50 mm. Thus, when using only one piece of plumbing, the riser cannot completely fill.

Small-diameter sewer pipes are connected to the remaining plumbing fixtures. Therefore, their use does not have a significant impact on the total volume of simultaneous discharge. Therefore, in one-story houses, the installation of a vent pipe is optional.

Advice! As a rule, the most large number wastewater is formed when water is drained simultaneously from the toilet and bathtub.

A house with two floors or higher is a different matter. Of course, we are talking about cases where bathrooms are located on each floor. In this case, several people can use the water supply at the same time.


And when water is simultaneously drained from two toilets, the cross-section of the riser will be completely blocked, so in such houses the installation of drain pipes is mandatory. In high-rise buildings, normal functioning of the sewerage system without a drain pipe is impossible, since in such a building a large number of people can use the sewerage system at the same time.

Consequently, the likelihood that the entire section of the riser will be occupied by drains increases many times over. Thus, it is imperative to include waste pipes in the system if:

  • To construct the riser, a pipe with a cross-section of less than 110 mm was used.
  • There are several bathrooms in the house and it is possible that they will be used at the same time.
  • If the house has a device that can provide a significant amount of wastewater at once. Such devices include, for example, a swimming pool.
  • The house is equipped with a local sewerage system and a sewage treatment plant is located a short distance from the house. In this case, ventilation from sewer pipes helps prevent the smell of gases formed during the decomposition of organic matter in the septic tank from entering the premises of the house.

Installation and repair of drain pipes

Fan pipe for sewerage can be made of both plastic and cast iron:

  • Metal pipes. This is a traditional solution, since 50 years ago domestic sewage systems were assembled exclusively from cast iron. The material is durable, but it is very inconvenient to work with because it has significant weight.


  • Plastic. This is the most popular material for sewer assembly. Many owners replace their old cast iron sewer to plastic, and when building new houses, this material is the most in demand. Plastic pipes are lighter, more cost effective and more aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, today cast iron pipes are used much less frequently.

Advice! When installing or replacing a drain pipe, if necessary, you can join parts made of cast iron and plastic. The main thing is that the diameters of these elements match. A narrowing of the diameter in the fan pipe should not be allowed, otherwise it will not function fully.

In addition, there are conditions that must be observed regardless of what material the pipes are made of:

  • The diameter of the drain pipe must be equal to (or greater than) the diameter of the sewer riser. Use a smaller pipe building codes prohibited.
  • The drain pipe, as a rule, is led to the roof. It should not be installed near windows or balconies. Minimum distance from the surface of the roof ridge - 30 cm.

Rules for installing vent pipes

When installing a fan pipe, you must strictly adhere to the recommendations set out in SNiP.

  • When purchasing material, you need to make sure that the diameter of the fan pipe is not smaller than the diameter of the riser.

Advice! In private construction, most often, a plastic pipe with a cross-section of 110 mm is used to construct risers and, accordingly, waste pipes.

  • The starting point of the sewer system must be in a heated room. But its end point, on the contrary, should be located in a cold place. This will provide the necessary difference in temperature and pressure and allow ventilation to effectively remove gases.


  • The sewer ventilation pipe is actually a continuation of the riser, so it is made of the same material as the riser itself.

Advice! Sometimes the constant presence of an unpleasant sewage odor in the premises is due to the fact that siphons of insufficient volume are installed under the plumbing fixtures. If you do not use the appliances for several days, the water plug will simply dry out and unpleasant-smelling gases will penetrate into the rooms. Installing a drain pipe will help solve this problem. The air in the house will remain fresh, even if the plumbing is idle without use.

Ventilation outlet to the roof

Rules for installing a drain pipe:

  • The outlet of the ventilation pipe to the roof should be at a height of at least 30 cm, and preferably 50 cm, from the ridge. However, if the roof is a used object (for example, a summer terrace is installed on it), then the height of the outlet can reach three meters.
  • If there are several risers installed in the house, then they can be equipped with one drain pipe.
  • The horizontal distance from the windows and balconies of the building to the outlet of the waste pipe must be more than 4 meters.

When constructing sewer ventilation, it is strictly prohibited:

  • Lead the vent pipe to the attic, not to the roof.
  • Organize the exhaust pipe outlet together with the chimney outlet and the ventilation duct.
  • Place the drain pipe under the roof overhang, since in winter, when snow and ice melt from the roof, the pipe may be damaged.

Some homeowners, in an effort to improve the performance of sewer ventilation, try to install additional exhaust devices on the pipe. Such as deflectors, weather vanes, etc.


In fact, such devices not only do not give the desired effect, but can also cause condensation to accumulate in the system. And in the cold season, moisture can freeze and block the paths of air and gases.

Check valve installation

A check valve must be installed on the drain pipe. Place a valve on the sewer drain pipe immediately after installing the toilet. Valve operating principle:

  • When water is drained from the cistern, the valve cover opens, allowing waste to flow through.
  • If there is no liquid coming from the house, the valve cover is tightly closed. Moreover, it has such a design that it can be opened with reverse side impossible.

That is, installing a valve helps to avoid such an unpleasant situation when drainage from an external pipeline (for example, as a result of a blockage) penetrates the house, flooding the premises with dirty water.

So, a drain pipe is an element of the sewer system that is used to ventilate the pipeline and maintain normal pressure. The installation of the drain pipe must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of building regulations.

Installation of independent or centralized system Disposal of wastewater is impossible without installing a special drainage system. The element blocks the return flow of gases into the bathrooms, acting as a connecting component between the septic tank and the atmosphere.

The technology for installing the riser is quite simple. But before you start work, you need to understand the principle of operation of the ventilation duct and understand how to properly install the vent pipe in the house. The answers to these questions are described in detail in the article.

The fan pipe is a structural element that connects the pipeline with a specially constructed ventilation duct. Its key purpose is to remove gases and odors from the sewer system.

The presence of a ventilation riser in the system ensures that there are no unpleasant loud sounds in living quarters that occur during the draining of water, and the “fragrance” of sewage sewage (+)

The length and shape of this element can be arbitrary. There are models of vertical and horizontal design, beveled at right or acute angles.

The principle of operation of the vent pipe is simple. Wastewater entering the vertical riser creates a vacuum in the pipeline cavity. It can be partially compensated by water, which acts as a hydraulic damper in the siphons of installed plumbing fixtures.

But if the vertically installed riser has a large length and at some point there is a one-time powerful discharge of waste liquid, then a vacuum arises in the sewer pipe.

The formed piston from the liquid with all its strength and characteristic “smacking” sound at one moment tears off and breaks through the hydraulic valves of the plumbing, emptying the siphons.

As a result, water is completely sucked out of all water seals. Therefore, there are no obstacles left. Due to this, they quickly spread throughout the building.

This effect also occurs during rapid pumping. fecal pump content cesspool or a septic tank into the tank of a sewer truck

The trouble is that the matter is not limited to the appearance of an unpleasant “fragrance” in living rooms. The natural process of decomposition of feces is accompanied by the release of gases harmful to households: methane and hydrogen sulfide.

If the system is equipped with a fan riser, at the moment of “throwing in” there are no such consequences, since the vacuum created in the collector simply does not have time to break through the hydraulic valves in the siphons.

This is prevented by flows of atmospheric air, which, simultaneously with the occurrence of vacuum, are drawn into the system, blocking the penetration of gases into the room when draining and pumping out the septic tank.

Image gallery

When installing a drain pipe with a cross-section of 110 mm, the connection check valve performed using an adapter.

One of the ways to install a check valve in the cavity of a waste pipe and then connect it to the sewer outlets of the system

An important point: all operations for installing a vent pipe should be carried out on dry surfaces. At the stage of fixing the check valve, you should not use silicone sealants or any kind of lubricant.

Typical installation errors

Most often, a situation with the formation of a vacuum in the system occurs when pipes are used in its arrangement different diameters. For example: the toilet is connected to a pipe D 110 mm, the bathtub is connected to a pipe D 50 mm, and the opening of the cistern is D 70 mm.

Unpleasant stench in bathrooms often appears when plumbing fixtures are equipped with siphons that have insufficient volume. This occurs due to the fact that when the devices are not used regularly, the remaining water in the siphons dries out, removing the hydraulic valve and opening up free access to the spread of “aromas”.

By correctly calculating the dimensions of the drain pipe and installing it in compliance with all installation rules, you can almost completely eliminate the possibility of accumulation and the likelihood of sewer gases entering the house. And then problems with the operation of the sewer system will definitely not arise.

Do you have practical skills in installing a ventilation drain pipe? Share your accumulated knowledge or ask questions on the topic - the contact block is located below.

Hello again!

Owners of apartments on the upper floors of high-rise buildings are often annoyed by the section extending to the roof sewer pipe. It seems useless and, according to the owners, takes up too much useful space, which is why they often get rid of it without remorse.

In fact, the seemingly unnecessary fan pipe has a very specific purpose. What is its function and is it really impossible to do without it?

The fan pipe is a continuation and belongs to the class of gas exhaust ventilation equipment.

Purpose and functions

The vent riser is designed to drain foul-smelling gases accumulated in the circuit beyond the boundaries of the household.

But this is not its only function, it:

  • Normalizes the pressure in the system, which prevents the failure of water seals in the siphons of plumbing fixtures while simultaneously discharging a large volume of waste.
  • Muffles the sounds of wastewater movement in the pipeline.

Design and principle of operation

From a technical point of view, the drain riser is a natural continuation of the waste pipeline. Essentially, this is a piece of pipe connected to the sewer main and extending beyond the boundaries of the roof structure of the house.

The contour and outlet pattern of the fan pipe is determined by the structural features.

The principle of operation of the drain riser is based on the difference in atmospheric pressure inside the sewer circuit and outside. Gases formed during biological decay naturally rush upward and... Since the design of the siphons of plumbing fixtures provides a kind of barrier in the form of a water seal, they go out along the path of least resistance - along the drain pipe. If it is absent or blocked, these gaseous emissions will be carried out through the water seal and enter the room.

How to determine if a drain pipe needs to be installed

There is no need to guess in this matter: everything is clearly regulated by SNiP 2.04.01-85. If the house does not belong to the “one-story” and “private” categories, it must be equipped with a vent riser.

Is a vent riser needed in a one-story and two-story house?

As we have already decided, if the house is two-story and also multi-apartment, a ventilation sewer circuit is required.

But with a one-story, even private house, everything is not so simple. A sewer riser in a private one-story house may be required if, during a one-time discharge of wastewater, the liquid completely, albeit briefly, blocks the cross-section of the sewer pipe. In this case, there is a high probability of failure of the water seals of the plumbing equipment and the release of waste gases into the room.

The designated risk zone includes houses in which:

  • More than one floor, and each one has a bathroom, even with a separate sewer line.
  • The diameter of the drain risers is less than 110 mm.
  • Jacuzzis or swimming pools are connected to the public sewerage system.
  • The septic tank is located closer than 8 meters from the house.
  • Not sustained.

Even if you have one-story house, but at the same time it has several bathrooms, the connection of a drain pipe is mandatory.


How to check if there is a drain pipe in the house

There is nothing simpler:

  1. If you are the happy owner of an apartment located on the top floor multi-storey building, just go into the bathroom where the sewer riser is located. If a pipe goes up from it, everything is great. By the way, it would be a good idea to go up to the attic and make sure that this pipe is routed beyond the roof.
  2. If you are not so lucky and the apartment is located slightly lower, just listen to the sounds made by the sewer. A characteristic squelching sound is a signal that the drain pipe either does not exist at all or is clogged.
  3. Systematic failure of water seals and a foul odor will also indicate problems with the ventilation sewer system.

Is it possible to do without it?

In very rare cases - yes. But then the sewer line must be equipped with a check valve or vacuum valve (aerator). Which is better, we will consider below.

What materials is it made from?

Both the sewer and the sewer pipes are the same type of pipes. This means that they are made from the same materials - plastic or cast iron:

  1. , more convenient to install and operate.
  2. Cast iron is stronger and more durable, but working with them due to its impressive weight and fragility is more difficult. In addition, cast iron ones become dirty faster during operation.


Types, sizes and diameters

There are 2 types of fan pipes:

  • Straight-line (hard).
  • Offset (corrugated).

The offset pipe is mobile and allows you to connect to a toilet with any outlet location.

The standards regulate the diameter of vent pipes at 110 mm. This value is the same for both cast iron and plastic models.

The length of the vent pipe can be different: it depends on the height of the ceiling and attic spaces, as well as the level of the outlet beyond the roof.

Which type is better

Cast iron is gradually giving way to plastic, so if possible it is better to replace the cast iron model with a plastic one. This is not at all difficult to do: you can use special lip adapters for insertion.

Choosing between plastic products, give priority to polymers based on polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). They:

  • Provide sufficient fastening rigidity and resistance to vibration and mechanical loads.
  • Able to withstand the aggressive environment of condensate accumulating on the walls of the pipeline when foul-smelling gases are released.

It is better to use the same type of plastic that was chosen for the main sewer. This will make it easier to select a sealing compound.


Design features are determined by the installation method and the personal preferences of the owner. If the design is rectilinear, it is wiser to use rigid products. If you plan to bend the contour, it is allowed to make some of the elements in corrugation.

How to choose the right one

The main question in choosing a drain pipe is determining the optimal diameter, especially when it comes to apartment buildings with a large number of drains.

The cross-sectional size of the drain pipe should not be less than the same value of the interfloor sewer riser to which it connects.

Approximate price

The cost of fan pipe products is determined by a number of parameters:

  • Dimensions (section, length, wall thickness).
  • Material of manufacture.
  • Design features.
  • Manufacturer and brand awareness.

The approximate cost of PVC models is given in the table:

Outer diameter, mm Wall thickness, mm Pipe length, m Price, rub.
90 5 3,06 500
90 8 6 1850
113 5 2,07 560
113 5 3,07 830
113 5 5,07 1360
113 7 2,07 760
113 7 3,07 1125
113 7 5,07 1855
125 5 2,07 605
125 5 3,07 900
125 5 5,07 1480
125 6 3,07 1050
125 6 5,07 1735
125 7,5 3,07 1320
140 6,5 2,07 890
140 6,5 3,07 1320
140 6,5 5,07 2180
140 8 3,07 1600
140 8 5,07 2630
165 7,5 3,07 1740
165 9,5 3,07 2150
195 8,5 3,08 2195
195 11,5 3,08 3050
225 10 3,09 3170
225 13 3,09 4005

Installation rules

Installation of the vent pipe is carried out inside the heated room strictly from bottom to top in the following sequence:

  1. Preparation of technological holes in load-bearing structural elements.
  2. Installation of plumbing fixtures, assembly and connection of their sewer circuit to the riser.
  3. The system is assembled at the lowest point of the circuit. To connect all the elements, a tee is used, one of the holes of which should “look” up.
  4. A section of a fan pipe is installed in the tee branch pipe the right size, so that the connecting section does not fall out onto the attic floor.
  5. Silicone sealant is used to seal the connections.
  6. Every 1-1.5 meters, the pipeline is fixed to the wall using clamps: rigid - in places of socket connections, floating - in straight sections. It is advisable to use clamps with rubber seal, they will better hold the pipe in a given position and compensate for the vibration load.

How to install a vent pipe through the roof and how to determine the required height

The contour of the fan riser is constructed according to interior wall building, is carried out through the attic and must be removed beyond the roof.


In this case, the following conditions must be met:

  1. To prevent the structure from collapsing, a fastening system is provided in the attic.
  2. Minimum level of elevation of the fan pipe above flat roof- 30 cm, above the slope - 50 cm.
  3. When placing the vent pipe in parallel with the ventilation circuit of the house, the edge of the vent pipe is installed at least 15 cm higher than the edge of the ventilation pipe.
  4. At gable roof the fan pipe should be installed on the leeward side.
  5. The distance between the edge of the drain pipe and the nearest window or balcony is at least 4 m.
  6. To prevent contamination, the head is equipped with a special protective deflector. Installing another type of equipment will inevitably worsen the quality of the sewer ventilation circuit and also provoke the formation of condensation.
  7. When the head rises above the roof level to a height of more than 50 cm, a brace system is installed that firmly fixes the position of the pipe on the roof.

Sometimes it is possible to remove the vent pipe through the gable part of the roof, this will preserve the integrity of the roof covering. In addition, technically such installation is easier to carry out, the main thing is to comply with the requirements for the distance of the head from the window and balcony structures Houses. Otherwise, foul smells will be drawn into the house.

How to make a conclusion through the roof

To exit through the roof, an installation hole is made in the roofing pie, 1-2 cm larger than the diameter of the vent pipe. After the pipeline is assembled, it is necessary to carefully seal the passage hole.


For this purpose, special polymer elastic linings, the so-called master flashes, are used. They:

  • Easy to install.
  • Ensures a tight fit.
  • Reliably protect the passage area from leakage.

The edges of the lining should be additionally sealed with sealant.

Basic installation mistakes

Everything that is prohibited by SNiP standards, but for some unknown reason is often ignored by folk craftsmen, can be safely classified as errors:

  1. Unauthorized removal of the sewer line.
  2. Reducing the cross-section of the sewer pipe compared to the main sewer riser.
  3. Exiting the head into the attic.
  4. Construction of the fan circuit external wall buildings.
  5. Connection of the vent pipeline to the standard general building ventilation system.

Combining the fan circuit with the chimney can cause a fire due to the ignition of sewer gases.

Is soundproofing and insulation required?

Soundproofing of the drain pipe is not one of the mandatory requirements, but it is not forbidden either. This issue becomes especially relevant when the pipeline passes through living rooms. Sewage noise, air blasts and vibrations can cause discomfort.

The following materials are used for sound insulation:

  1. Polyurethane foam. It simply foams the surface of the fan pipe. However, it should be taken into account that such a structure will look unattractive, and dismantling it later is quite problematic, and you can completely forget about repairs.
  2. Special slab materials, made in the form of a hard shell, exactly repeating the configuration of the pipeline. They are easy to install, hold well and do not cause any difficulties during dismantling.
  3. Soft roll soundproofing sheets, with which the pipeline is usually wrapped in 2-3 layers (depending on the thickness and noise-absorbing qualities of the material). The inconvenience of using soft sheets lies in the need to ensure a sufficiently rigid fixation to prevent the material from rolling along the vertical plane of the pipeline.

The use of thick-walled polypropylene pipes reduces the noise effect of a running sewer system.

But the insulation of the vent pipeline is not an idle issue, especially when it comes to an unheated basement, upper floors and attic space. The temperature difference provokes the formation of condensation and its freezing in the pipe circuit, reducing the efficiency of the ventilation system. For insulation, as a rule, the same materials are used as for sound insulation.

Rules for replacing a drain pipe

The need to replace the fan riser arises when the old structure:

  • It was clearly worn out and the connections were loose.
  • Has damage.
  • Made from old cast iron pipes that have long since outlived their usefulness.

Replacement work should begin with disconnecting the outdated structure from the sewer riser, which should be temporarily closed with a plug during repairs. This will prevent the release of fetid odors into the room, and will also prevent the remnants of the old pipe from entering the sewer circuit.

After dismantling the old structure, you can begin installing the new one. The sequence of these works is described above. Still have questions? Watch the video.

Repairing a plastic drain pipe is not a difficult task. It is enough to replace the damaged area with a new one or install a special crimp repair sleeve in this place.

With cast iron pipelines everything is much more complicated, especially when it comes to the old stock. Over time, cast iron becomes more fragile, and it is almost impossible to disassemble a well-worn cast iron joint without damage. It is more advisable to make a complete replacement.

Alternative to a drain pipe

Some alternative to the fan main are special devices - aerators. The people have them.

At independent device sewer system in an individual house, not all owners have a good idea of ​​how to install it correctly. The sewer system is an integral part of modern homes. One of mandatory elements Such a system for its proper functioning is a sewer pipe. Many owners of private households do not fully understand its purpose and proper use when installing a sewer system.

What is it

A drain pipe is a part of the sewer system pipeline that connects it directly to the atmosphere and eliminates the emptying of water seals of plumbing fixtures from possible vacuum when draining waste water.

In turn, a water seal is a specially curved sewer pipe at the outlet of a plumbing fixture. It is naturally partially filled with water, which acts as a water plug to prevent unpleasant air from entering the sewer pipes directly into the room. For example: the water seal of the toilet is made in the housing, and a special product is screwed to the sink - a siphon.

Important! If there is no drainage pipeline in the sewerage system, then at the moment of draining a certain amount of water, water plugs may disappear at nearby water seals and then not very pleasant sewer odors will freely seep into the living quarters through the empty pipes.


The drain pipe is also called the ventilation of the sewer system. Its presence in the sewer allows solving two important tasks simultaneously:

  • Ventilation removes harmful gases from the sewer system;
  • Pipeline ventilation maintains atmospheric pressure in all elements of the sewer system, preventing air rarefaction from occurring when large volumes of water are drained simultaneously.

Hence the conclusion: the drain pipe is an important attribute when installing a sewerage system in residential buildings.

Device

Availability of fan risers in sewer system multi-apartment residential buildings is mandatory and is regulated by current government documents and building regulations. As a rule, sewer ventilation risers are carried out directly, due to the fact that the processes occurring there are gravity, and not forced, and it is necessary to minimize the number of outlets and various narrowings for the most free passage of air flows.

Sewage systems in individual houses do not have such volumes of wastewater as in multi-apartment residential buildings, therefore the requirements for the installation of drain risers are less complex and allow for significant deviations for the sake of practicality and minimizing construction costs.


The sewer pipe is basically the upper continuation of the sewer riser, so it must end at the roof of the building. A standard deflector must be mounted at the end of the pipe, so that the distance from the surface of the roof ridge is 30 centimeters higher. It is not recommended to install sewer ventilation on the façade of the building.

Important! You cannot install the outlet of the sewer riser in the attic of the building or near windows and near balconies.

To install a fan riser, you can use pipelines made of any materials. So, plastic, cast iron or steel pipes must meet only one condition - to be corrosion-resistant, since sewer gases will contain many aggressive substances.

Diameter

There are no special requirements for calculating the diameter of sewer pipes, so for multi-apartment residential buildings it should be equal to the diameter of the sewer riser itself. But for individual construction, it is allowed to use pipes with half the diameter compared to the main riser, so only air will pass through the drainage part of the pipeline, and it has several times less density than the drained water at the bottom of the sewer network.


A 50 mm drain pipe is well suited for sewerage of an individual private house

Basically, when constructing an individual residential building, to calculate a separate sewer line, which includes a sink with a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, cistern with a hole of 70 mm, the main pipe from the toilet of 100 mm and the common riser, also of 100 mm, use a fan pipe with a diameter of only 50 mm. Practice shows that this diameter is quite sufficient to maintain constant pressure and provide constant ventilation of the sewer system.

Is a vent pipe needed in a two-story house?

Guided by building regulations, an exception to the execution scheme is allowed when constructing a sewerage system for a waste pipeline in individual houses. This conclusion is based on the fact that in small households large volumes of drained water cannot be generated simultaneously.


Installing a drain pipe for the sewer network in low-rise construction will not always be superfluous, therefore it is recommended to install sewerage according to traditional scheme with all functional elements. Although there are a number of clear criteria under which the installation of a waste pipeline is a necessary condition for the proper functioning of the sewerage system, namely:

  • There are two residential sections in the house, each with its own sewer system, which is combined into a common network;
  • The house has more than two floors, equipped with common risers;
  • There is a horizontal sewer distribution with three or more plumbing fixtures connected;
  • The presence in the house of sewer risers made of pipes with a diameter of 50 mm;
  • The presence of a swimming pool or similar structure that allows large simultaneous discharges of water into the sewer system;
  • If there are individual sewer septic tanks located on the site directly next to the house.

In any case, when, during a one-time discharge of water, a situation may arise in which the section of the sewer pipe is completely filled and it becomes possible to create a vacuum in the higher-lying water seals, then the installation of a drain pipe becomes a prerequisite for the proper functioning of the sewer system of the house.


If a residential building is equipped with a small number of plumbing fixtures and mostly with small-diameter sewer pipes, then the use of a drain pipe is not necessary, since it will not have a significant impact on the operation of the entire sewer system, but will only require the expenditure of extra funds.

Advice: For one-story construction, installing fan pipes is not advisable.

How to check

When purchasing an existing country house or cottage, you can easily check and make sure there is a drain pipe in the sewer system. So, if you suddenly flush the water from the toilet, it should not disappear from the water seals of the plumbing fixtures located above. But the characteristic appearance of squelching sounds in the siphons of sinks and bathtubs leads to the conclusion that not everything is in order with the sewage system in the house and this can lead to the appearance of unpleasant odors indoors.


To check for the presence of a drain pipe in the sewer system of a house, you need to flush the toilet.

Installation

The requirements for the installation technology of sewer pipelines are the same as for other sewer pipes. This is how you can list the main installation conditions:

  • Sections of pipelines laid horizontally must have a minimum slope of 0.02% towards the sewer stacks;
  • Several sewer risers can be combined with one drain pipe;
  • The direction of the waste pipeline can be changed after the last water seal and only above the level along the riser;
  • When combining three or more pipelines, it is necessary to make a connection with angles of 45 and 135 degrees, respectively;
  • When the roof or attic is in use, the fan deflector is installed at a height of 30 cm closer to the roof ridge;
  • The outlet of the exhaust pipe is allowed no closer than four meters horizontally from balconies or skylights.

Installation diagram with roof outlet

Important! Any combination of pipelines of waste pipes, ventilation systems and chimneys is strictly prohibited.

Do I need to insulate and soundproof?

It is not at all necessary to insulate sewer pipelines passing through residential premises, as well as sewer pipelines. But in an unheated attic it is worth making at least minimal thermal insulation of the pipes, so that when severe frosts Ice did not freeze inside, since water vapor is much lighter than air, and they will tend to rise through the pipe, where they will freeze on the cold walls.


Sound insulation of the drain pipe should only be carried out if open passage her through the living quarters. If this cannot be avoided, then the insulation work is quite simple and is carried out in the same way as for all sewer pipelines with the same ease. The only thing that complicates the process is the variety of acoustic processes in pipes, which directly depend on the materials from which the pipelines are made.

Thus, the sound insulation properties of cast iron pipes are much better than those of their plastic counterparts. This is due primarily to the properties of the granular structure of cast iron and the larger wall thickness, so such pipes, as a rule, do not require additional sound insulation.

Sound processes occurring in plastic pipes can be divided into four main components:

  • Impact nature, when falling water and feces repeatedly hit the walls of the riser;
  • Atmospheric nature is the penetration of wind and precipitation noise through the outer part of the pipeline;
  • Resonant nature from the presence of extraneous noise in the pipes caused by the interaction of the sewer pipeline with the building structures;
  • Vibrations that occur when there is contact with any operating equipment.

The main part of the work on sound insulation should be carried out at the design stage of a residential building, so that all sewer risers do not pass through residential premises and are installed exclusively in special boxes or sewer shafts, which themselves are shielding devices and prevent the spread of noise.

If, after all, the vent pipeline is located in a living room in open form, then its sound insulation can be easily done by wrapping the pipe with strips of inexpensive polyethylene foam in two or three layers.

Vacuum valve or drain pipe

A vacuum valve is a special device that performs the same main function, which is the same as a drain pipe, namely, it prevents the appearance of vacuum in the sewer system, thereby eliminating the emptying of water seals of plumbing fixtures and making it impossible for unpleasant odors to come from the sewer.


For individual houses The vacuum valve is an alternative and a complete replacement for the drain pipe. It is much simpler in design and easily fits into any existing sewer pipeline, while it does not require a complex outlet device and is much cheaper in terms of capital costs when purchasing and installing.

Important! Don't confuse the two different types valves for sewerage are a vacuum valve and a check valve. They differ both in execution and in functional purpose which they perform in the sewer system.

The vacuum valve is designed as a fully automatic device, which begins to operate at the slightest vacuum in the sewer pipe when draining water. The sensitive element of the valve is made in the form of a special membrane made of rubber or silicone.

It works due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the pipe, opening when a vacuum occurs when draining water, thereby ensuring the flow of missing air into sewer network. Under the influence of internal forces, the membrane immediately returns to its place when the pressure is completely equalized, preventing the penetration of air from the sewer pipe.


The only disadvantages of a vacuum valve are:

  • Laying (gluing) of the membrane to the installation site (socket) during very long periods of inactivity,
  • Deformation of the membrane shape over time due to drying of low-quality rubber or from prolonged and frequent operation.

Both of these disadvantages of the vacuum valve are not so critical and can easily compensate for the inexpensive cost of purchasing a new device and the ease of its reinstallation.

Everyone decides for themselves how to install a sewer network in their home. After all, there is no definite answer to the question: a vacuum valve or a drain pipe, or it is simply not worth complicating the sewerage system with unnecessary elements. Here, this article, common sense, technical calculations and your life experience are your advisors.

There is only one way to make the toilet’s bathroom safer and more comfortable, remove unnecessary odors and normalize the operation of the water seal. This can only be achieved by installing a sewerage system with a ventilation outlet to remove gases accumulating inside the system. Similar devices found in almost any sewer drain system equipped with a water seal. If ventilation system the riser becomes clogged, freezes or does not work efficiently, the entire entrance to the house will know about it.

Ventilation functions for sewerage

It’s not even a matter of the spread of unpleasant odors; the ventilation outlets of sewer risers can solve two important problems:

  • They ensure trouble-free operation of the water seal by releasing excess pressure inside the sewerage system. Ventilation compensates for gas pressure surges. Thanks to this, the contents of the bellows of sinks and water seals of compacts are not squeezed out into the room;
  • Ventilation removes 100% of sewer gases that pose a certain danger to residents of an apartment or house. Even if during a period of prolonged absence of residents the level in the water seal drops below the safe level, most of the gases will be released onto the roof through the outlet for ventilation of the sewer riser.

For your information! Unlike a standard room ventilation system, the sewer outlet works in two directions.

For example, when discharging water into the sewer system on the 2nd or 10th floor, it does not matter, the water mass, falling along the riser, entrains a large amount of air, thereby creating a vacuum inside the pipe. Through the outlet of the ventilation system, part of the air is sucked into the sewer and compensates for the vacuum. If the ventilation outlet is clogged, littered, frozen, or its cross-section is not of sufficient size to ensure free flow of gases, the water seal will fail. Then the vacuum in the sewer will draw water from the water seal and, after a few moments, release it as gases back into the toilet or bathroom.

In normal mode, all gases released from dirty water, due to natural ventilation draft, rise up the riser and are thrown out through the pipe outlet on the roof of the house.

Requirements for the arrangement of a sewerage ventilation outlet

Like any ventilation system responsible for removing gases and vapors that are unsafe for human life and health, the ventilation outlet from the sewer cannot be built in any order, at your own discretion.

For stable operation of the sewerage system, the following requirements must be adhered to:

  • The size of the ventilation outlet must be no less than the diameter of the sewer riser. Most often, the ventilation pipe for exiting the sewer is selected with a 10% margin in cross-section;
  • The best material for the ventilation system is plumbing plastic. If the sewerage system is built from plastic pipe 110 mm, the ventilation outlet can be made in the form of a continuation of the sewer riser;
  • The sewer outlet pipe is raised to the roof, if possible, with a minimum number of bends and installed on the leeward side so that the gases at the outlet do not enter the living quarters.

Important! The sewer system vent must not be connected to the main ventilation pipe, hood or chimney. The sewer riser must have an independent gas outlet.

Typical ventilation option for sewerage

The simplest way to build a gas outlet involves using ready-made kit parts and assemblies for the manufacture of riser ventilation systems, which includes:

  • Plastic outlet of a ventilation pipe on the roof of a house;
  • A protective cap for the deflector, which closes the exit from snow and rainwater entering the ventilation system;
  • A protective lining that insulates the pipe passage through the roof pie;
  • The corrugated pipe is a jumper; it is used to connect ventilation to the sewer riser.

Most often, products are purchased to equip the ventilation system outlet famous company Wilper. The standard ventilation pipe is a plastic outlet with a length of 500 mm and a cross-section of 110 mm.

A protective lining made of silicone and polypropylene is made separately for each type of roofing covering, taking into account the dimensions of the surface profile. The hinged design of the passage element allows you to install a ventilation outlet for roof slopes with an angle of inclination from 11 to 45 degrees.

Traditionally, the ventilation outlet is made in a non-insulated version. For climatic zones with a predominance of winter time For very low temperatures, it is recommended to use an additional cover with polystyrene foam insulation. In addition to insulating the pipe with the outlet, you will need to purchase and install a warm version of the protective lining for the roof passage unit. The kit provides trouble-free reliable operation in a temperature range up to -50 degrees.

With more low temperatures The sewerage system, including the exit, must be equipped with a heating cable. Otherwise, water vapor will freeze at the outlet of the pipe, which will block the outlet and disrupt the operation of the sewer system.

The design of the deflector raises the most questions. For normal output operation, the deflector is an optional element and, as a rule, is not included in the standard set offered by manufacturers. However, in hot times, especially in the summer, the use of a deflector helps to significantly increase the efficiency of ventilation and reduce the likelihood of a sewer water seal failure due to high temperature air.

Installation of the exhaust pipe of the ventilation system

As a rule, the standard kit includes everything necessary for self-installation outlet of the sewerage ventilation pipe on the roof. The main difficulty that will be encountered is the exact determination of the location of the output. Most often, to install the output, you have to dismantle the fragment internal insulation roofs.

After determining the installation point of the ventilation outlet pipe on the roof according to the markings made, using a jigsaw or a rotary attachment to a drill, a hole is cut along the diameter of the ventilation outlet pipe. Next, the passage unit cover is placed on the cutout, and drilling points are marked for screwing in the self-tapping screws. Glue is applied to the slump line, laid on the roofing and screws are screwed in.

WITH inside roofing, it is necessary to install a silicone cuff with a corrugated pipe and blow out the joint between the roofing covering and the corrugation polyurethane foam. All that remains is to restore the insulation and vapor barrier of the roof, after which the entire structure can be connected to the sewer system.

Conclusion

After completing the installation of the outlet for sewer ventilation, it is recommended to seal all joints and seams silicone sealant, resistant to ultraviolet radiation from the sun. At the same time, the pipe itself, the deflector and the lining are not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and do not require special protective measures. The exception is parts purchased separately from unknown manufacturers. It is possible that purchasing a ready-made kit for ventilation outlet equipment will cost more, but this is a guarantee high quality and long service life.

Sergey Novozhilov - expert on roofing materials with 9 years experience practical work in the field of engineering solutions in construction.