Scaffolding- a specific thing and not always necessary. But what to do if they are so necessary, but there is nowhere to take them? Mount yourself! Before getting to work, it is important to know that scaffolding is created according to the principle frame structure assembled from wooden and steel elements. To understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands, the master must decide on their type.
Scaffold design and types
Based on the material of production, forests are divided into two types:
- metal;
- wooden.
Another criterion for separation scaffolding on types is considered the method of attachment structural elements. According to this method, forests are divided into:
- frame - are considered especially strong, since their main is an all-metal frame;
- pin - parts of the structure in these scaffolds are attached to each other with a pin;
- wedge - the design of such scaffolding is connected by the wedge method;
- clamp - vertical and horizontal racks are connected by inserts according to the "pipe to pipe" method, fixed with swivel and non-swivel clamps.
How to assemble wooden scaffolding
What you need to install scaffoldingTo assemble scaffolding, which is also called a "goat" or "table", you will need the following materials:
- Nails or self-tapping screws (any, as long as there is enough length, except for rusty and bent ones, otherwise the work will turn into sheer torment);
- Boards (pallets, fences, old furniture, pieces of chipboard, plywood or wooden boards);
- Bars (any sticks, fragments, pieces metal profiles, branches from trees).
Frame manufacturing
An excellent assistant for those who assemble scaffolding with their own hands will be drawings. It is on them that it is easiest to assemble the frame. To do this, on a pre-prepared site are fixed wooden coasters and shoes, if necessary, screw supports are installed. After that, frames are mounted with a certain step. Their number determines the estimated length of the structure. Along the edges, special frames with borders are installed. Ladders are mounted on the frames for the descent and ascent of workers. The entire structure is fastened with horizontal and diagonal ties. For their fixation in the frame there are special locks.
Frame assembly
Do-it-yourself scaffolding The minimum safe height of the scaffold is 5-6 m, the width is 50 cm, and their recommended length is 4 m. Based on these figures, calculate the size of the frame and required amount material whose quality deserves special attention.
In particular, to create a frame, a solid beam with a width of at least 10 cm is chosen. end strips structures are mounted under acute angle. Two six-meter support beams are laid in a horizontal position. The distance between them is the width of future forests. Two more six-meter beams are laid nearby at the same distance. The upper ends of the beams should converge at a slight angle in the form of a trapezoid, this will give stability to future scaffolding.
Side racks are fixed to these beams - the support of future decking. Attach racks with inside, and only three racks are used for decking, and the latter serves to strengthen the structure. There should be no more than 4 sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to build scaffolding above "four floors".
Preparing Additional Racks Flooring installation
Before you make scaffolding, you need to determine the requirements that they must meet. Height can be considered a defining parameter, because flooring is necessary precisely for working at a certain height.
Flooring installation The length of the "goat" depends solely on the size of the available materials. Of course, a table that is too short will be very inconvenient, especially at high altitude. And you need to remember that on the table, perhaps, there will be two people and a bucket of solution.
To achieve the desired width of the flooring, the required number of boards is used. However, if it is made not from boards, but from chipboard, then the increase will be difficult. As for scaffolding erected indoors, the so-called "goats", then important point will be the width of the available doorways, as well as the presence of other furniture. After all, the "goat" will need to be moved somehow.
The weight factor is one of the most important, because it is inconvenient to carry scaffolding, and heavy ones even more so. To move them by dragging is once again subjecting them to undesirable physical impact. On the other hand, sacrificing height and strength is definitely not worth it.
Not only the health of the builder, but also the integrity of walls, floors, and equipment depends on the strength of scaffolding. Everything that can be nearby. However, there is no point in loading the structure with unnecessary elements. It is far from certain that they will actually add strength. Properly hammered nails, twisted screws and mounted jumpers are a guarantee of strength.
Properly made jumpers - the basis of the builder's safety Wooden scaffolding can be considered stable if it does not wobble. And it's not just that the worker feels uncomfortable if the table wobbles. Any furniture breaks for this very reason, including scaffolding. Properly placed jumpers are the only way to achieve stability.
For flooring, wide and long boards are used, nailing them to the sidewalls. These three boards need to be spread around the edges and in the center of the deck so that it does not sag. By the way, it is more convenient to cut off the excess when the flooring is already assembled - then you will not need to measure anything. The gaps between the boards reduce the weight of the product. On the other hand, they make it possible for small objects to constantly fall to the floor.
When screwing in the screws, you need to make sure that the boards do not crack. And protruding screws are easily broken off with a hammer blow. If the nails turned out to be long, they should be bent through something round - the handle of pliers, for example. In this case, sharp end the nail will go into the tree with reverse side giving extra strength.
Assembly of metal scaffolding
Metal scaffolding is much stronger than wood and has a longer service life. However, their manufacture takes more time and labor costs. A scaffolding scheme is usually used to calculate materials and size. Multi-level scaffolding is made of aluminum, small structures are made of steel. Steel, unlike aluminum, is more suitable for self-arrangement forests. To build metal scaffolding with your own hands, the master will need:
- round pipe with a diameter of 15 mm - the basis of future struts;
- profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - necessary for the production of racks;
- a profile pipe with a diameter of 25 - connecting jumpers are made from it;
- fastening materials for metal;
- "Bulgarian" - it grinds corners and saws pipes;
- drill and drills.
Strut preparation
Installation of metal scaffolding begins with the preparation of spacers. A 15 mm pipe is cut into two fragments of 2 meters each. Their ends are flattened. At each end of the "grinder" two longitudinal notches are made no more than 2 cm.
Then the 30 mm pipe is cut into fragments of 1.5 m each (the height of one span of scaffolding). Then, pieces of 0.70 m are cut from the same pipe, intended for jumpers between the uprights of the span. Jumpers are installed 35 cm apart. The sizes of all fragments are carefully rechecked. After all work is completed, the structure is welded into a single whole using a welding machine.
Manufacture of adapters
At a later stage, adapters between sections are mounted. To do this, a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is cut into small pieces of 25 cm, and a pipe with a diameter of 30 mm is cut into even smaller pieces of 5 cm, with their help jumpers will be fixed. A segment of 25 cm is threaded into a segment of 5 cm to its center. Then it is fixed by welding or self-tapping screws.
For further assembly of scaffolding, holes for bolts are made at the ends of the jumpers and in the racks. Jumpers are securely fastened between the uprights of the section crosswise, on both sides. Further, with the help of connecting adapters, the next floor of the structure is created.
Frame assembly
Frame metal scaffolding is able to withstand pressure of 180-200 kg per sq.m. They are made from racks and frames. Such forests are allowed to be erected to a great height - up to 45 meters. Before mounting the metal frame, first of all, they determine the location of tiers, stairs and other structural elements.
The assembly of the frame begins with the fact that on a pre-prepared site, segments of 3 m are laid, on which the support boards are laid. Metal supports are fixed on these boards, which form the basis of the initial tier. After the supports are fastened together with iron ties, the next floor is mounted. On each floor, working surfaces from boards - floorings are equipped. To climb them, the scaffolding is equipped with ladders on the sides.
Section mounting
Before arranging scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the size and location of the sections. In this case, three conditions must be met:
- the width between the racks is not more than 3 m;
- the length between the racks is not more than 4 m;
- the height between floors is not more than 2 m.
The number of sections depends on the size of the wall. The flooring sheet is fixed on the racks with metal screws or clamps. Then horizontal guides (lintels) are welded to the racks. Pipe cuts (adapters) are “put on” on the upper ends of the racks and welded. If a thin-walled pipe is used, then during assembly, its ends and middle are flattened, and holes for fasteners are made in these places.
Two diagonal strips are bolted together in the center, then they are applied to the uprights and marks the points for future holes. Diagonal strips are fixed on the racks with bolts. Then, thrust bearings are welded to the ends of the pipes - flat metal plates. After that, the structure is installed in the working position.
Flooring manufacturing
The flooring for metal scaffolding is made according to the same principle as for wood scaffolding. Floorings are made from edged boards, 40-50 mm thick, metal sheets are also used.
Scaffolding painting
When erecting scaffolding with their own hands, not everyone thinks about the need to paint them. This is not a prerequisite for their operation. However, a layer of paint will protect the metal from corrosion, and wood from getting wet and rotting, which will significantly increase the shelf life of scaffolding.
During the construction of a residential building, many processes must be performed at a height, and therefore you cannot do without reliable scaffolding. Most optimal solution- make scaffolding with your own hands, then you will not have to pay rent and spend time transporting the structure. They are wooden and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.
Construction and types of scaffolding
Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:
- support posts;
- stairs;
- decking and lintels for it;
- enclosing railings;
- stops;
- horizontal and diagonal braces.
Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all the details are knocked together with nails. At the same time, such scaffolds are not designed for heavy loads, their dismantling takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Scaffolding made of metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily extended if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high regardless of how many times the structure has been disassembled and reassembled.
Wedge scaffolding Depending on the methods of fastening, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.
Table. Forest types
| Forest types | Description |
|---|---|
| frame | metal structures from vertical frames fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffolds are lightweight and easy to install. |
| wedge | very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders |
| pin | rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, withstands very high loads, but is too expensive and puts a lot of pressure on the ground |
| clamp | these are universal scaffoldings, perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite laborious, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically |
How to assemble wooden scaffolding
To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there should be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding should be a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is made.
For work you will need:
- timber 100x100 mm;
- boards 30 mm thick;
- boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
- nails;
- a hammer;
- level;
- roulette;
- Circular Saw.
The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. Raw wood will make the structure heavier, besides, after drying it can be deformed. Since scaffolding is required only during the construction or finishing of the house, it is not necessary to treat it with antiseptic compounds and grind it.
Step 1. Making the frame
4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meters along the lower one. You should get two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal braces.
Step 2. Frame assembly
The frames are lifted, set vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper ones about 1 m. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.
Step 3. Installing the flooring
Floor boards must be nailed to the upper transverse bars. It is best to stuff them along the width of the frame; boards are laid close, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.
Prices for different types of building boards
Building boards
Assembly of metal scaffolding
In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden decking. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. For the manufacture of sections, steel and aluminum racks are suitable; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section is 1.5 m high, 1 m wide and 1.65 to 2 m long.
For work you will need:
Step 1. Prepare the spacers
Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of the horizontal is 96 cm, the diagonal is 2 m. After that, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of the two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the struts to the supporting posts.
Step 2. Making adapters
To build scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from shaped pipes: pipes 25x25 mm are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and blanks 8 cm long are cut from 30x30 mm pipes. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.
Step 3. Frame assembly
Two vertical racks are interconnected by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. It turns out a frame in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the racks of the section will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils, dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.
Step 4 Mounting the section
Two frames are installed vertically one opposite the other and try on diagonal braces. The attachment points are marked with a marker, then holes for the bolts are drilled in the racks and spacers. Connect all the parts together and check the horizontal level of the upper crossbars with a level. If the design is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.
Step 5. Making the deck
Boards for flooring can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse decking, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, boards are taken at least 2 m long, knocked down along the width of the section, strengthened from below with transverse bars from deflection.
So that the flooring does not move during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be fixed at its ends along the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. In the same way, markup is made from the other end of the shield. Next, they take a profile with a width of 17-20 mm, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now that the decking is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.
Step 5: Painting the Scaffolding
Metal scaffolding is designed for reusable use, which means that they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, the frame becomes corroded from dampness, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolding, each element should be sanded, wiped from dust, primed and painted. wooden flooring also processed and painted to protect against moisture and decay.
Prices for poles, profile pipes
pillars, profile pipes
Video - Do-it-yourself scaffolding
Any construction of a house or facade work can not do without the use of scaffolding. As a rule, scaffolding is made of wood or metal. Of course, wood scaffolding is easier to manufacture. For the durability of the structure and to enhance its strength, metal is chosen.
It all depends on the task and the required wear resistance of specific scaffolding. The larger the working area, the more attention should be paid to strength. For the construction of private houses or adjoining structures, forests are created 2.5 meters high and 1 m wide. It is better not to build a structure above 6 meters, because an increase in the height of the structure reduces its stability.
The standard design involves the use of the following components:
- Boards for flooring and lintels 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Beam for racks and stops measuring 10x10 cm. Nails or self-tapping screws (for small structures).
Spacers are made between the legs to give strength to the structure. The racks are fastened with flooring and jumpers. To move between the levels of scaffolding (up and down), steps are made from beams mounted on racks, or a ladder is used.
Metal structures are assembled from steel or aluminum pipes. This requires the following materials:
- Pipes for spacers with a diameter of 15 mm. Profile pipe for racks with a diameter of 30 mm. Connecting adapters are made from a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. Necessary tools for connecting all components: welding machine etc.
Pipes 15 mm. cut into 2 meters, and their ends are flattened.
From 30 mm. pipes make segments of 0.75 m in size (the length of one jumper) and 1.5 m.
The structural components are fastened together by welding or bolts. Jumpers are fixed crosswise on both sides. When one section is ready, you can build the next one.
Safety during construction works must be above all, so do not try to assemble and disassemble scaffolding more than two or three times. From reusable assemblies, they lose strength.
Before starting work, always check the strength of the assembly.
The need for scaffolding arose along with the need to build or finish buildings with a height of more than two floors.
The first such structures were made of wood, which is why they got the name of scaffolding. They are built around a building that needs to be renovated and are different types. Consider the most common types of scaffolding.
Wooden scaffolding
Wood has long been widely used in construction, and it can be used to build scaffolding for finishing and repair work passing at low altitude. Usually this type of scaffolding is used for private houses or low buildings. Since this type of scaffolding is the simplest and easiest to perform, we present the technology of their manufacture.
For the construction of wooden scaffolding, you will need boards 150x50 mm half a meter long, pieces of thin boards 25x100 mm, two long fifty-fifty boards for supports and long boards of the required length for horizontal flooring.
First, triangular supports for the scaffolds are knocked together from scraps of the fifties, and then they are sheathed with thinner boards. The dimensions of the support triangles should be chosen based on following factors: the support must not move away from the wall under the weight of the builder and its own weight, and there must also be enough space for a standing worker on the platform. In this regard, usually the length of the scaffolds is chosen 400-500 mm, and the feet of the worker should not sag beyond the flooring.
The supports are attached to the supports at sharp angles.
In this case, the upper end of the support is cut so as to insert it inside the support triangle, and Bottom part sharpened for fixing in the ground. After that, the scaffolding is brought to the desired position and the vertical part of the triangular supports is attached to the wall with nails, without hammering them to the very hats, because later, after the work is completed, they will need to be removed. Then they put a ladder and begin to nail the flooring boards to the supports, in this case the nails are driven all the way.
Before starting construction work, you should make sure that the structure is stable, and in general, wooden scaffolding should not be made higher than seven meters.
metal scaffolding
They are made from aluminum or steel pipes, and there are two options for such structures: modular and frame. Modular types include suspended, wedge, clamp and modular (system) scaffolding. Among frame scaffolding, pin, flag and tower tours are distinguished.
All metal scaffolding requires anchoring to the walls of the building, and without such an attachment, the height of the scaffolding should not exceed four meters, and then, provided that the base under the scaffolding is perfectly horizontal and compacted.
Consider the main types of metal scaffolding.
Flag (frame) scaffolding
Such structures can withstand loads up to 200 kg / sq.
meter. They consist of side frames, racks for horizontal and diagonal fastening of the sidewalls to each other and shoes for resting on the ground. The dimensions of such scaffolding may differ depending on the manufacturer, but the construction scheme is the same.
Such scaffolding is easy to assemble and inexpensive, so they are very common. The fasteners of the frame scaffold are inserted into the holes specially designed for this purpose and are fixed by turning. In the vertical plane, the parts are connected by introducing the frame into the groove below the element located.
tower tour
These scaffolds withstand a load of 200 kg/sq.
meter. Such structures are often used for the repair and decoration of individual sections of building facades. Since building scaffolding around the entire building is quite expensive, and it takes a lot of time to assemble and disassemble them back, they use a tour tower.
It is a design of their finished frames with a ladder, wheels are attached to its base. If frames over 4 meters high are used, then additional spacers are attached to the frame of the first tier, and if the tiers of the tower are displayed at 2/3 of the maximum height, then it is attached to the wall of the building with brackets or anchors. Such tour towers can be from 4 to 21 meters high and differ in the number of tiers.
Pin scaffolding
Used with a maximum load of 200 kg/sq.
meter. The horizontal elements of their construction are fastened with pins, which are inserted into hollow tube-eyes on vertical racks. Each level of scaffolding is assembled in stages, and the lower ends of the rack supports are inserted into the shoes.
For greater rigidity, diagonal braces are used. They can be mounted to a height of up to 40 meters, and are most often used for masonry work. Such scaffolding is made of steel tubes with a large wall thickness, and therefore they are capable of experiencing heavy loads.
Wedge scaffolding
Such structures with a standard load of 200-300 kg / sq.
meter have a more complex design than the above options. Their elements are fixed with steel wedges hammered in. This increases the strength of scaffolding, because they are used under heavy loads.
The special shape of the wedge prevents wedging. 8-hole rack flange locks are also used. Such scaffolding is used at a height of up to 40 meters for high-rise construction and finishing works.
Clamp scaffolding
They have a standard load of 200-250 kg / sq. meter.
All elements are connected on clamps (swivel or deaf), into which crossbars and racks are inserted, followed by fixing with threaded bolts. The disadvantages include the complexity of assembly, but at the same time such scaffolding can be mounted to a height of up to 80 meters. Clamp scaffolding can also be used to work with complex architectural elements such as arches and domes.
Which type of scaffolding to choose depends primarily on the purpose of their use. So, for work at high heights, pin or clamp scaffolding is used, and for construction and finishing work at low height, frame scaffolding is used.
Evaluate how it's made:
A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at height and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.
Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.
Forests they call structures quite long and high. Scaffolding "goats" is usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.
If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or finish the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for work. For our part, we will talk about how to make scaffolding strong and stable with our own hands, saving a lot of money on renting them.
Scaffolding design options
Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain the same elements for their intended purpose:
- Vertical racks (perceive the workload and transfer it to the ground). Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame). Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid). Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders) .Stubborn slopes (prevent scaffolding from tipping over).Rails (protect workers from falling).Stairs (used to ascend and descend from work platforms).
The material for the assembly of scaffolds and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than steel, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only good for firewood.
Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but has no restrictions on the number of use cycles. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.
If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.
Features of the manufacture of wooden and metal scaffolding with their own hands
Before starting the preparation of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be marked on it.
There is no need to fantasize here, since the optimal dimensions of scaffolding have already been determined by construction practice:
- the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters; the distance between the posts is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters; the width of the working floor is 1 meter.
It has been established by ergonomics that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from ground level. This will save you from having to put together low building scaffolds.
It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.
If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:
- For cutting racks and thrust braces - a beam with a section of 10x10 cm or boards at least 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. Spacers, ties and railings can be made of edged board"Thirty". For flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.
When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, it should be remembered that nails are more difficult to remove when disassembling scaffolding.
Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from the wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for breaking, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for extended and high structures, self-tapping screws.
Scaffolding from boards is assembled in this order:
- on a flat area parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding; racks are connected with horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid; and horizontal screeds; flooring from boards is placed on horizontal jumpers and fixed; scaffolding is fixed on two side slopes-stops; railings are nailed to the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for lifting.
If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be connected to each other with wide sections of boards, stuffing them into adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before driving. Scaffolding from a profile pipe is similar in design to wood.
The difference between them lies in the use of adapters. They are used to build up the "number of floors" of a metal structure. A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements: round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal screeds). Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long. Steel plates 10x10 cm 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings; 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting diagonal screeds to each other and fastening them to frame racks. The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations: racks of scaffolding are rigidly fixed to the assembly shield (OSB sheet) with clamps (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor); horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks; adapters are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm from pipe scraps and fix them by welding; after removing the racks with jumpers from the assembly shield, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the shield with clamps; the ends and the middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal stretch marks are flattened with a hammer and holes are drilled in them bolts; tightening the bolt with two diagonal ties in the middle, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes; coupler and fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts; holes for bolted connections are drilled on the racks and railings; plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe segments; .Helpful advice: to prevent the longitudinal displacement of the flooring to its lower part at the point of contact with the jumpers, you need to screw steel corners 30x30 mm. scaffolding is carried out with an extension of the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust slope that protects the structure from falling. In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with others sections (when building scaffolding in length). Video
If you decide to make scaffolding, then you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will get a one-time design, which can be done by any person who knows how to work with wood, and in the second, it is reusable, but also quite easy to manufacture. In this article we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal (profile pipes), as well as from wood (boards), we will demonstrate diagrams, photo and video instructions.
Although metal or wood is mainly used for the manufacture of scaffolding, they may differ in the method of fastening, and, accordingly, have different functional elements in their design. So, consider the main types of forests.
The constituent elements are connected by a special wedge fixation. Scaffolds of this design are highly reliable. They are able to withstand fairly large loads. At the same time, they are easy to use, they are quickly assembled and disassembled. Especially important is the use of wedge scaffolding in the construction and lifting heavy materials and nodes.
The main element of this design is a rigidly installed frame. They are mainly used for painting or plastering work. The frame in this design is connected with horizontal uprights and diagonal ties due to nodal connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolding is their low cost. Their construction does not require large investments.
In these forests, the connection node, as is obvious from their name, is a pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular with builders, as it is very easy to assemble and disassemble directly on construction site. It often takes a day or two to assemble scaffolding. In this case, the assembly of pin scaffolding will not take much time.
If the object on which the repair work is carried out has a complex configuration, then the clamp scaffolding is great solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, height and size play an important role. working area, the distance between the tiers and the pitch of the racks. All this is selected individually for each object.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from planks. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:
- Lay out 4 racks or boards parallel to each other on a flat area. Their size should immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
- You connect the racks with each other with horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will be laid later.
- Place the 2 frames made horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
- Lay the flooring from the boards on the horizontal screeds and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the railing to the racks and fix the ladder.
If necessary, lengthen the structure of the scaffolding, connect several similar sections of boards to each other. The boards are stuffed on the support posts.
When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill holes so that the boards do not split.
Design
All forests consist of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts (they give spatial strength to the structure);
- jumpers for flooring;
- flooring from boards, on which a person will stand;
- stops (to create the stability of scaffolding and prevent them from falling away from the wall);
- enclosing element (so that a person, standing on the floor, does not fall down);
- ladder (ladder) for climbing desired level forests.
From wood and planks
There are a lot of tips on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolds themselves. So that you do not get confused in all this "diversity", try to focus on the following values:
Let's get to work:
- Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
- boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or timber 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
- boards for spacers and fencing 30 mm thick;
- boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
- nails (self-tapping screws in this case are less reliable).
Photo instruction
We bring to your attention to view a series of photos on the topic of how to make your own wooden scaffolding:
From a profile pipe
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height of scaffolding you need.
- Prepare the necessary materials:
- for racks - a profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
- for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
- for connecting inserts (adapters) - profile pipe 25x25 mm;
- make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
- for diagonal elements - 2 meters each;
- for horizontal elements connecting racks from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
"Pros and cons"
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small scaffolding-goat, but a rather bulky structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.
Wooden scaffolding, of course, can be dismantled later, but the work is laborious, and the boards, if you don’t need them in the near future, also need to be folded somewhere. Keep in mind that wood scaffolding is assembled with nails, not self-tapping screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when performing work on scaffolding, wood is often stained with mortar or paint.
Home-made metal scaffolding can not only be dismantled, but also rented out in the future.
Secondly, non-factory-made scaffolding is designed to work at a maximum level of the second floor (from the ground). High altitude operation makeshift scaffolding becomes dangerous.
Thirdly, scaffolding is required quite rarely (only to repair the facade of the building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.
Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for siding installation). Accordingly, their weight increases, and rearranging home-made wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.
It is worth thinking about forests at the stage of designing a house.
If you do not plan to carry out facade work yourself (but are going to hire a construction team), then you don’t have to think much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their scaffolding and scaffolding.
However, at the end of construction (and after some time has elapsed), scaffolding may be needed for minor façade repairs. Can this be avoided?
Of course. And to begin with, make sure that the facade of your house does not require repairs for many years. To do this, it is enough to use when building walls facing brick. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and at the same time in a fairly large range of colors.
But others facing materials(such as siding, plaster, and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.
Video
From this video you will learn how to make scaffolding for apartment renovation:
A photo
The photographs show various designs scaffolding:
Scheme
The diagrams will help you design your own scaffolding:
It is difficult to carry out construction work without loess, especially if it is necessary to carry out them at high altitude. The design will help to safely climb the hill, do everything you need, put nearby materials that will help in business. It is inconvenient to rent building loess from a profile pipe, as it will constantly draw money, which some may not like. Alternatively, loess can be made by hand. They will be made as convenient for the owner, will provide the opportunity to climb to the desired height.
Types of loess
There are several varieties of loess that you can do yourself. Suitable for manufacturing metal pipes, can be added to the design of the board. If you make everything from wood, it will turn out much cheaper than metal ones. But such installations will not be able to withstand a significant load, there is a possibility of a break with a large weight installed on them. 
In time, the metal frame will take longer, but gradually the costs of its manufacture will be covered by a reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled, rebuilt. In addition to wood, there are other types of loess:
1. Clamp. Priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. It is problematic to assemble such products, but there is an option to bend them, as required by the need.
2. Wedge. You can put a lot of weight on them.
3. Pin. They are easy enough to assemble and disassemble. They will go for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.
4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness, ease of assembly. You can collect them very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg per meter of the base surface. In construction, they are most often used, because it is not difficult to make them with your own hands.
Important:do-it-yourself building loess made from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended to stand on them together.
Making loess
Making loess from pipes is not difficult at all. To do this, you need to select the required elements, connect them to correct sequence. To make the work go faster, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. After that, you will only need to do certain actions with them and combine them into one design.
Materials for the manufacture of loess
To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made from boards. It can be made of aluminum, but it will be possible to withstand a smaller load. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm, it is most convenient to do about a meter in width. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.
Before starting the assembly of the structure, it is necessary to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:
- Profiles with a length of 1.5 m and a section of 3x3 cm. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
- Pipes with a diameter of 15 mm, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
- Profile for connecting elements. The section is 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
- Stairs. You can insert the finished one, but if not, you can also execute it from the profile.
- Bolts, nuts and washers that will secure each element. Self-tapping screws to connect the wooden parts with them.
For work, you will need to use a drill, a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, welding. Connections can be made by making necessary elements carving. The earth at the installation site must be well compacted so that distortions do not occur during the manufacturing process. If the work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The ground under the loess will be strong, there will be no danger to people at a height.
It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of the parts leads to a strong inclination of the elements above and the construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably, efficiently.
Collection of loess
Building loess is assembled in the following order:
1. First you need to cut the blanks: the diagonal parts that fasten the structure, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened by about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.
2. 2 vertical posts are connected with spacers. They must be strictly horizontal.
3. The horizontal parts are connected with ties, at a distance of about 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.
4. The connecting parts are fixed.
5. Holes for bolts must be made on the supports.
6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. wooden elements connected with self-tapping screws. Diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.
It makes sense to cover the scaffolds with paint so that they last longer. If the structure is planned to be disassembled and assembled frequently, it is possible to connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of a profile 2.5x2.5 cm is inserted into them and the elements are welded. 
Many people think about whether it is worth doing building loess on their own. On the one hand, this design is bulky, you will have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can just take apart the parts, but this is a long time. Wooden loess are connected only with nails, not self-tapping screws. The boards will be whole after work, they can be used in other needs.
On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height is at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.