Side chimney for a bathhouse. Bathhouse communications, chimney through the wall. main details in the design of a chimney

Exiting a chimney from a sauna stove through the ceiling and roof is a rather complex and labor-intensive process; it requires careful sealing and waterproofing of the chimney outlet on the roof. Incorrect or poor-quality work can lead to a fire in the transition zone and the accumulation of condensate inside the pipe. For an individual bath, a chimney through the wall is an excellent alternative to a traditional smoke removal system. Its main advantage is ease of installation and high fire safety. However, chimneys passing through wall panels have a number of significant disadvantages due to their contraction:

the stove-heater should be installed in close proximity to the wall (usually the distance is 50-70 centimeters);
when installing a chimney outlet in a bathhouse through the wall, the thermal insulation of the bathhouse is compromised;
the design of the chimney through the wall implies the presence of a horizontal section on which ash and soot accumulate;
in the horizontal passage section there should be no joints, which are concentrators for the formation of soot.

The part of the chimney that exits through the wall and is located outside the bathhouse is called external. In this case, the length of the transition horizontal section should not exceed one meter. Otherwise, the draft will be disrupted and may not be sufficient for the natural removal of fuel combustion products into the sauna stove. If the length of the horizontal section is more than one meter and the draft is insufficient, it will be necessary to provide a forced smoke removal (ventilation) system, which is usually done by installing an additional fan.

When installing a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall, any sections of the exhaust pipe that are subject to strong heating must be well insulated and located at a distance of at least 0.5 meters from those elements of the walls and roof that are made of combustible, fire-hazardous materials.

The implementation of this requirement causes particular difficulties when the sauna log house is built from timber or sanded round timber, or has frame-panel structure.

IN wooden baths To ensure fire safety, the walls provide for the installation of additional heat-reflecting screens or fire-resistant protection, as well as special methods for hanging and fastening horizontal sections. The greatest difficulty is caused by the installation of supporting elements from the outer part of the wall - they must withstand not only the weight of the horizontal section, but also the vertical, exhaust part of the chimney, which must rise above the roof ridge of the bathhouse.

Some owners country cottages To eliminate the problems described above, a horizontal section is made from a metal box, which has little weight, is easily thermally insulated and easily mates with the stove-stove and the vertical section of the chimney. However, metal has a high coefficient of thermal expansion, which makes it impossible to rigidly install a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall and requires special compensators.

Since in Russia the majority of individual bathhouses erected on the territory of private housing construction are constructed from various types wood materials, then the issues of fire safety of the house exhaust pipe and fire resistance of the wall passage section prevail.

Features of installation of a horizontal section

If the horizontal section is made from an industrially manufactured pipe round section, then in wall panel a hole is cut out larger than the outer diameter of the horizontal part of the chimney. To thermally insulate a wooden surface, rolled basalt wool is attached to the edges of the hole, the fire resistance of which reaches 800-1000°C. To prevent the wool from falling apart, it is placed in a thin metal casing or reinforced with a fine metal mesh on top. When using a rectangular channel, measures for organizing fire-safe operation of the chimney are similar, only the hole is cut with a square or rectangular shape with a thermal gap between the outer surface of the chimney and the edge of the cutout in the wooden wall of 4-5 centimeters.

When purchasing a heat-insulating material, you need to pay attention to its fire resistance parameters.

Some mineral wool products (mats) are organically impregnated and are not able to withstand temperatures above 250-300°C. When this value is exceeded, organic matter is destroyed and the heat-insulating material turns into dust, completely losing its properties.

Installation of a chimney in a bathhouse through the wall begins from the heater stove. Those places of the horizontal section that are closest to the wooden wall are covered with heat-insulating material. In addition to increasing fire safety, this operation prevents sudden temperature changes in the outer and inner sections of the chimney, resulting in loss of draft.

In order not to engage in amateur activities, you can purchase a ready-made transition device for the chimney or order it from a repair and construction workshop that installs ventilation and exhaust systems. Typically, the kit includes a horizontal section of the chimney pipe, two flanges (external and internal) and the required amount of heat-insulating material. The cost of the adapter depends on the size and material of manufacture and starts from a thousand rubles. Wall devices of the “N” and “Thermo” categories, included in the “FERRUM” model line, cost 2.2-3.4 thousand rubles. In this case, you can purchase a double-walled sandwich chimney, which has improved thermal insulation properties. If the dimensions of the finished horizontal chimney do not satisfy the user, it can either be cut off or made into a composite of two elements.

It's hard to imagine a sauna without a stove. Accordingly, a chimney is needed. The construction of this structure is a critical stage, but by following certain rules and calculating the parameters, you can build it yourself.

Chimney in the bathhouse

If the draft is disrupted, smoke from the burned fuel will penetrate into the bathhouse building through the gaps. This may result in carbon monoxide poisoning. To ensure safe operation of the bathhouse, a high-quality chimney is necessary. First of all, you will need to understand its design, decide on the type and dimensions. Only in this case will it be possible to make a chimney that will be safe and reliable.

Chimneys for bath buildings can be made:

made of brick;
made of metal.

According to design and installation location, they are distinguished:

To choose a suitable design, you should learn about the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Video: how to choose a chimney for a bathhouse

Chimney calculation

If you are using a wood-burning stove or a fireplace with an open firebox, then the calculation should be done as follows: you will need to make a ratio of 1:10 in relation to the firebox. This applies to cylinder shaped pipes. The calculation of the cross-section of a chimney in the shape of a square must be determined in proportion to the dimensions of the firebox 1: 1.5. The diameter of the pipe must exceed the diameter of the blower.
If the heat transfer is less than 300 kcal/hour, then the cross-section should be 140x140 mm or more.

It is also worth taking into account the amount of oxygen that is required for the fuel to burn. To prevent condensation from forming on the walls of the structure, the temperature of the gases must be more than 120°C. Condensation inside the pipe can cause soot to become trapped, resulting in reduced draft and requiring frequent cleaning.

Table: permissible chimney characteristics

The diameter of the smoke exhaust device is calculated as follows: D = √(4 x Vr) / (3.14 x 2), where D is the diameter of the smoke exhaust device, Vr is the volume of air. The height of the device is calculated based on the geometry of the section. The calculation can be done using the graph:

The height of the chimney must be calculated taking into account the dependence of the cross-section of the structure on its height

For the calculation, it is necessary to determine the area of the firebox (F) and the smoke exhaust device (f). The first value should be divided by the last and determine the ratio in %. For example, if the ratio of the cross-section of the chimney structure to the cross-section of the firebox is 10%, the minimum permissible height of a round chimney will be 7 m, square - 9 m, rectangular - 11 m. The difference in height can be compensated for by the vortex resistance created by the chimney.

It is worth considering the fact that the values are only suitable for straight pipes, and this is not easy to achieve in a bathhouse building. In most cases, smoke exhaust pipes have different turns, which will have a bad effect on draft. To correctly calculate a specific device with various irregularities, you will need to use the services of specialists. As a last resort, you need to slightly increase the resulting value. This will be enough for a stove that runs on solid fuel.

The advantages of using asbestos pipes include:

Low cost. This is due to the fact that asbestos products are easy to manufacture.
Little weight.
No seams.
Resistance to moisture.

It is important to take into account the disadvantages, which are much greater than the advantages:

Legislation prohibits the use of pipes made of this material in stoves that burn solid fuel. During fuel combustion, the temperature of the exhaust gases will be at around 700–800°C. An asbestos chimney can withstand no more than 300°C.
Asbestos is a porous material, so it will absorb condensation. Cracks can cause fires.
Inner base will not be smooth, so soot quite often accumulates on the walls, which after a certain period can begin to burn. The temperature from an open fire will quickly rise, causing the asbestos chimney to explode.
Soot can also seal the chimney recess over a period of time. As a result, the draft will disappear, and combustion products will enter the room.
The appearance of stains on the walls and a bad smell in the steam room. Condensation will soak into the pipe and transfer to materials that touch it. This may result in the chimney and building needing to be repaired.
An asbestos pipe has a small diameter, so initially the draft will be poor.
It is impossible to prepare a recess in the design for inspection, so it is difficult to clean it from soot.

It is not recommended to make a chimney from an asbestos pipe, since the material is not able to withstand high temperatures

To use this material for the production of a chimney, the following conditions must be met:

The structure needs to be installed only in areas that are located at a great distance from the stove.
Insulation is a prerequisite. The pipe can be mounted in a brick chimney, or it is possible to build a sandwich using an external casing. This will significantly reduce the occurrence of condensation and increase fire safety.

If you plan to build a chimney from an asbestos pipe, then the following recommendations should be taken into account:

The structure must be installed on a reinforced concrete slab or stone masonry.
In the process of passing through the ceiling, you will need to make a fluff. To do this, you need to fix the sides required height in the extreme parts of the recess and fill the gaps between the ceiling material and the pipe with materials that do not ignite. It is allowed to use expanded clay, sand or slag concrete.
In the process of crossing the roof, you will need to make an otter that can protect the attic space from precipitation getting inside. For reliable fastening, a coupling should be formed from a mixture of sand and cement.
The chimney sections must be fastened using heat-resistant sealant and clamps.

It is important to pay Special attention quality of joints.

Ceramic pipes

Modern ceramic pipes can be used to remove gases at different temperatures, as well as for boilers with liquid and solid fuels.

Ceramic chimney is suitable for boilers with liquid and solid fuel

Differences between a ceramic chimney and other types:

Versatility.
Simple processing.
Possibility of heat accumulation.
High strength.
Long service period.
Gas tightness, which eliminates the possibility of gas entering the room.
Fire resistance.
Waterproof.
Resistance to temperature changes.

The structure consists of the following elements:

Visually, the chimney structure can be divided into the following zones:

container for condensate accumulation;
pipe base;
tee for cleaning;
tee for connecting the stove.

The siphon of the container for accumulating condensate must have a height of more than 15 cm, the minimum level of the barrier liquid is 10 cm. When installing straight parts, it must be taken into account that the joints of several sections cannot be located in the places where the floor slabs pass. In these places, the structure should be additionally insulated with non-combustible material.

The total height of the ceramic device should be more than 5 m. The higher the height, the stronger the traction. When installing, it is important to consider the following requirements:

the chimney should be at a height of 1.2 m above the roof without bending;
at least 50 cm above the ridge or barrier;
at a distance of at least 5 m from the grate to the mouth of the pipe;
above the ridge;
at an angle of 10° to the horizon.

The dimensions of the product must be larger than the diameter of the stove pipe. Installation is quite simple: you need to start from the base and move to the top. The pipe from the top should go inside the bottom. If you plan to install the structure in a wooden structure, then it is important to take into account the likelihood of settlement. If this factor is not taken into account, the chimney will be damaged. There is no need to fix the product to the roof.

Making your own chimney for a bathhouse from stainless steel

Not all steel can be used for the production of smoke exhaust systems. The structure can only be constructed from the following grades of steel:

Heat-resistant metal with corrosion protection grades 409 and 439. Suitable for installing a solid fuel stove. The material contains titanium, which will not allow carbon to burn out of the metal. This brand cannot be used to remove smoke from a stove that runs on gas or liquid fuel.
Stainless steel that is resistant to corrosion. Brand - 430. The material can be used for construction external elements chimney. It is not suitable as an internal pipe, as it will quickly collapse under the influence of elevated temperatures.
Stainless steel grades 304 and 316. Resistant to acids. It is allowed to use the material in the production of smoke exhaust systems that are mounted on devices operating using liquid fuel.
A refractory metal that is resistant to acids and high temperatures. Brand - 321 and 316T. Can be used for all types of stoves, since the material is not afraid of temperatures up to 1000°.

Only austenitic class materials can be used.

Steel chimneys can be divided into 2 groups:

There are certain rules for installing a structure that allow you to make a chimney of high quality and durability:

Such a system must be installed starting from the bottom.
The assembly of all chimney sections into one structure must be performed sequentially. The next section must be inserted into the previous one.
The pipe must be joined using heat-resistant sealant and secured with clamps.
Each part should be secured with a separate bracket.
If the pipe will pass close to devices that can catch fire, then a layer of basalt insulation should be installed on the outside of the pipe.
If the roof is without a bend, then the minimum height of the chimney above it is 50 cm.
Where the structure passes through the roof there should be no connections. The minimum permissible distance from the joint to the ceiling is 70 cm.

To protect the roof, a spark arrestor must be installed on the head of the pipe.

A spark arrester is necessary to eliminate the possibility of a roof fire

Self-installation of a chimney for a bath

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used for the production of the chimney. There are some rules that should be taken into account when making a chimney yourself:

The device must not be connected to other pipes.
The smoke exhaust structure should not have horizontal sections longer than 1 m.
During the heating season, the sauna chimney must be cleaned at least 2 times.
The structure must extend at least 0.5 m beyond the roof.

Installation of a steel sandwich chimney through the ceiling

The first thing to consider is the sandwich chimney. Manufacturers supply products together with a set of additional parts, which include:

knee;
tees;
clamps;
plugs;
ceiling-passage units;
heads;
protective screens.

The diagram will allow you to understand the technology of installing a stainless steel chimney

Step by step guide for assembling a steel chimney:

First of all, using a plumb line, you need to mark the exit points of the pipe through the roof and ceiling structure. Next, you need to prepare a recess according to the size of the pipe. It is worth remembering that between the sandwich pipe and the wooden ceiling parts you need to leave a distance of approximately 10 cm around the perimeter of the recess.

The dimensions of the hole should be approximately 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the chimney pipe
Thermal insulation can be done using mineral wool. It will be necessary to close the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling. There is no need to worry about the cotton wool getting damp, as the elevated temperature dries it out quickly.
You will need to take all dimensions and determine the location of installation of the unloading unit. It is recommended to do it in the attic. It will take on the load of the pipe that comes out of the ceiling. In addition, the unloading unit is able to eliminate lateral vibrations.

The unloading unit takes on the load of the pipe coming from the ceiling
If the distance between the floor base and the attic is large, then a unloading unit should be installed. If the distance is less than 1.5 m, then auxiliary supports are not required. The unloading unit can be constructed from steel angles and fasteners. The corners must be secured to the rafters. The fixation should be as reliable as possible.
You will need to install an initial pipe on the outlet pipe of the stove. It must fit into a large pipe with an interference fit; during the purchase process you need to select the appropriate dimensions.

An initial sandwich pipe must be installed on the outlet pipe of the furnace
The narrow pipe should fit into the outlet pipe of the furnace, but it should not cover it. The pipe sections must be inserted into each other. The transition and bend areas should be additionally secured with clamps.

Places of passages and bends of pipes must be fixed with clamps
Where the pipe passes through the ceiling structure, a groove must be installed to cover the outlet recess. This will also make the chimney more stable. To the groove you need to weld a pipe of a larger diameter, which will be used as an adapter. This will increase the support area and eliminate deformation in the event of strong loads in the side part. The adapter will allow the chimney to move freely up and down. To eliminate heat loss due to loose parts, it is recommended to use mineral wool. It must be placed under the cutting piece and carefully pulled towards ceiling nails or self-tapping screws.

To close the outlet hole in the ceiling, you need to install a groove
Holes must be prepared in the sheathing and roof covering. Next, you should seal the outlet of the smoke exhaust device. An adapter is required for this. The joints must be coated with sealant. It is recommended to place another sheet on the covering and secure it with self-tapping screws and rubber washers. The remaining cracks are treated with sealant. The pipe outlet should be 55 cm above the roof level.

The vertical position must be controlled by the building level
A fungus should be mounted at the top of the chimney.

Video: installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through the ceiling

Installing a ceramic chimney through the ceiling

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

First of all, you need to prepare the place where the device will be placed. If there are any irregularities on it, they must be eliminated. Installation of chimneys is allowed on a separate base near the heating device or on its upper surface. A special adhesive mixture is used for masonry, since the solution will not be able to provide the necessary strength.

For masonry you need to use a special glue, since the solution will not be able to provide sufficient strength
You should prepare metal rods 1 m long and 5–10 mm in diameter. With their help, you will need to additionally secure the structure. This will preserve the integrity of the chimney. Next, you need to make recesses in the ceiling and roof. There is no need to make a reserve in terms of dimensions, since the device will be able to protect wooden parts from elevated temperatures.
The next step is to install 2 halves of ceramics. The lock should be lubricated with an adhesive mixture.

The first block must be filled with adhesive mixture
Next you need to check the location of the halves. If necessary, they can be trimmed. Iron rods should be inserted into the side recesses. The gaps between the reinforcement and ceramics are filled with glue. There is no need to completely fill the cavity. The glue must be positioned so that it connects the rods and ceramics in 3-4 places.
Thermal insulating material should be wound around the ceramic pipe and lightly tightened with iron wire or a clamp. There is no need to tighten it too much, since the heat insulator should not shrink. Pressed mineral wool is mainly used as a heat insulation material.
The pipe will need to be installed in the recess of the ceramic, and then its location will be checked. To speed up the process, you can wrap all the pipes with insulation at once. The number of pipes corresponds to the height of the chimney.

You can check the location of the pipe using a building level
The next ceramic block is mounted with glue. Another pipe is inserted into the socket of the first one. Excess glue from the inner tube should be wiped off immediately, there should be no drips.

The lock of ceramic parts must be lubricated with glue and excess removed
The actions are carried out by analogy; during the process it is important to monitor the location of the chimney.
To secure the chimney in the attic, you need to cut the slats according to the dimensions of the recess, install them around the perimeter of the chimney and firmly nail them to the attic.
The roof where the chimney exits should be sealed. This is done using additional elements that are sold ready-made.

Where the chimney exits through the roof you will need to install a passage unit

Video: installation instructions for a ceramic chimney

Installing a chimney through the wall

After the chimney exhaust device has been assembled, you will need to light the stove. If the smoke comes out of the firebox quickly, this means that the work was done correctly.

How to install a chimney from a bathhouse through the ground

To run a pipe through the ground, you need to insulate it. A regular layer of bitumen will not work, since the pipe will be under high temperature. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

You will need to prepare several lined pipes, the diameter of the first should be 5–10 cm less than the diameter of the second. One pipe must be placed inside another. It is recommended to entrust the assembly process to specialists tin work.
Pipes can be assembled from several parts. The joints are fastened with clamps. There must be 3 spacers between each clamp, otherwise the chimney structure may collapse when falling asleep.
The joints should be treated with heat-resistant sealant.
The outer pipe, which is located in the ground, will need to be coated with bitumen.

The instructions may seem simple, but it is recommended to entrust this work to experienced specialists.

How to insulate a chimney pipe in a bathhouse

To perform pipe insulation work, you can use the following materials:

teploizol;
folgoizol.

Teploizol began to be used recently. It is made of polyethylene foam, which is hidden between several sheets of foil. Material thickness - from 2 to 10 mm. The thicker the insulation, the higher the temperature the material can withstand.

Table: dependence of the maximum possible temperature on the thickness of the insulation

The top layer of foil can protect the pipe from severe overheating. Installation of thermal insulation is simple. You just need to wrap it around the chimney, securing it with tape or iron wire.

Another popular material is foil insulation. It consists of layers of foil and heat insulator. The foil will be used as a reflective material, which allows you to save up to 90% of heat in the bath.

The best material Folgoizol is used for chimney insulation

This material is environmentally friendly, since the manufacturing process uses thick food foil. The material is resistant to ultraviolet rays and elevated temperatures. Acceptable temperatures are from -65°C to +175°C. It is often used for thermal routes and pipelines.

This material often covers not only the pipe, but also the walls and ceiling of the steam room. The building, which is lined inside with foil insulation, has a thermos design. The heat will not escape, and therefore bath building It will warm up quickly and will not cool down for a long time.

Quite often, safe sandwich pipes are used in bathhouses. The design is similar to a pie. Interior It is made of stainless steel, then insulation material is laid, and the outer part is made of galvanized steel. The design can perform two functions at once: eliminating the accumulation of soot inside and reducing heating outside.

If red brick was used in the manufacturing process of the stove, then this insulation method will not work. You will need to do the following:

Pipe outlet to ceiling structure and through the roof it is necessary to isolate from elevated temperature using asbestos sheet. To do this, you need to cut a sheet whose dimensions exceed the dimensions of the pipe by about 10–15 cm on all sides. The structure is screwed on with self-tapping screws.
The walls of the inner part of the pipe should be covered with a sheet of metal. Ordinary iron sheets cannot be used, as they may be subject to corrosion. The dimensions of the sheet should be the same as in the case of asbestos sheet.

It is recommended to build an iron box around the pipe where it passes through the ceiling and pour expanded clay inside. The thickness of the layer is 5–10 cm. It can contain heat and protect wooden parts from ignition.

Based on fire safety requirements, there should be no wooden frame around the chimney pipe within a radius of 25 cm. A more difficult task is to arrange the passage of the chimney between floors. It is important to preserve the tightness of the steam room and prevent heating of the wooden parts of the ceiling structure and internal cladding elements by the hot pipe.

For this purpose, you need to use cutting. The design is necessary to arrange a fire-safe passage of the smoke exhaust through the ceiling and wall, as well as to protect finishing parts from ignition. The cutting can be made from an iron box. The horizontal size is determined taking into account the diameter of the sandwich pipe, but the minimum value is 40 cm. The depth must exceed the thickness of the ceiling by 7 cm.

Important to consider following tips for cutting installation:

The junction of the box and the ceiling must be paved with a sheet of asbestos or basalt.
Bottom part cutting is fixed with self-tapping screws, but they need to be thermally insulated. To do this, in the place where the fastening element is installed, you should prepare a recess equal to 2 diameters of the self-tapping screw. In this case, the fasteners will not contact the bottom of the box.
Next, you need to put a washer and a piece of asbestos on the self-tapping screw.
The fastener is screwed into the recess.

After installation, the groove should be filled with thermal insulation material. This is done in the following order:

A 20 mm layer of clay is applied to the bottom.
The remaining space is filled with expanded clay.

Video: arranging a fire-safe chimney passage through a ceiling or wall

Building a chimney for a bathhouse is not difficult, but it is important to follow the instructions for installing and thermally insulating the pipes. Even the slightest mistakes can cause a fire in the wooden elements of a sauna building.

The construction of a sauna stove and chimney is now accessible to non-professionals. Heating equipment manufacturers offer big choice stoves, pipes and fittings for installing a chimney in a bathhouse through the wall and with your own hands.

Exiting the smoke exhaust channel not vertically through the roof, but through the wall is more convenient in terms of installation, fire safety and waterproofing of the pipe exit point from the bathhouse. But to make a chimney yourself, it is important to comply with all the required standards.

There are two main requirements for a chimney:

It must work effectively, removing combustion products quickly and completely. To do this, calculate the diameter and length of the pipe for a specific furnace. The stove in the bathhouse has a simple device with direct exhaust of combustion products (unlike a room stove, where for maximum heat transfer the chimney has winding passages - wells). An ineffective chimney can lead to the accumulation of carbon monoxide, which is fatal to humans.
It must be safe. All sections of the pipe are isolated from the walls, ceiling, roof, depending on how the smoke exhaust is installed. Fire safety requirements include strict standards for the distance from flammable structures and neighboring buildings.

Additional requirements include high-quality hydro and thermal insulation of the pipe from temperature changes and environmental influences. To comply with all the above requirements for chimneys, installation standards and rules have been developed, which indicate the exact dimensions and distances that are observed at the manufacturing stage of the chimney project.

Types of chimneys for baths

There are two fundamentally different types chimney:

Internal (classic). The pipe is routed through the ceiling of the room and the roof.
External, which became widespread in our country not too long ago. When installing this type of chimney, the pipe is routed through the wall, the main part of it is routed along the street.

Internal chimney

The internal smoke exhaust device in the bathhouse is traditionally used for brick stoves. In this case, the pipe is also made of brick. Install a classic traction control valve. The channel is removed vertically from the furnace through ceiling covering, then to the street through the roof.

Installing a sauna stove and connecting a water tank is not an easy task, so homeowners often resort to the help of specialists to solve it. But it’s quite possible to make a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands, saving on installation in this way. Which chimneys it is better to use them, how to install them correctly and take them outside, you will learn in our material.

Choosing a chimney pipe

To remove combustion products from a sauna stove, 3 types of chimneys are used:

from ordinary steel pipe;
special three-layer pipes for furnaces and TT boilers, made like a sandwich;
smoke channels lined with brick.

As a rule, brick chimneys are laid out simultaneously with a stationary stove, which is described in detail. They are safe and durable (especially with an internal ceramic insert), but are prohibitively expensive in terms of materials and construction. If you have installed a cast iron or metal heater in the steam room, then it is irrational to install a separate brick flue for it.

Reference. Some lovers of bath procedures build a brick heat shield in their steam room, shown in the photo. Inside the structure, vertical and horizontal channels are made for combustion products - smoke circulation. The goal is to remove more heat from the heated gases before releasing it outside and transfer it to the sauna premises.

Most cheap option– a conventional single-wall pipeline made of ferrous metal or stainless steel. And although the installation of such a chimney allows you to save money, a number of unpleasant moments arise during installation and operation:

so that a fire does not start from the hot iron surface in the bathhouse, everything wooden structures walls and ceilings will have to be protected;
the bare chimney pipe passing to the roof through the ceiling and attic will need to be insulated with basalt fiber;
Due to the temperature difference inside and outside the furnace flue, condensation forms on its walls, which is characterized by the appearance of dirty streaks on the pipe.

An option for the successful use of single-wall stainless pipes is inside an old brick channel

To avoid the problems listed above and not to insulate a single-wall chimney for a bath during installation, it is better to buy and install ready-made sandwich pipes. The inner sleeve in them is made of stainless steel, and the outer casing is made of galvanized steel (in a budget version). Between the two sleeves there is a layer basalt insulation, whose thickness can be selected. We recommend staying with this option.

Advice on choosing a sandwich for sauna stoves. Since these heat sources constantly operate at maximum conditions, the temperature of the flue gases is quite high and can reach 600 °C. Therefore, a three-layer chimney is required with a stainless insert thickness of 0.8 mm, insulation - 5-6 cm. Diameter - not smaller sizes heater outlet pipe.

How to vent a chimney through the ceiling

As mentioned above, the wood-burning stove in the bathhouse heats up to maximum, and is heated periodically, only during washing. The inner steel pipe of the sandwich is also heated to a high temperature, so that condensation does not form in it. This means that there is no need to install a tee and a dead-end section on the gas duct - a condensate collector; the vertical channel is connected to the furnace directly, as shown in the diagram.

When passing through wooden floors and roofing, it is important to comply with fire safety regulations. They state that the inner wall of the flue, protected by non-flammable fiber, must be located at a distance of at least 38 cm from the nearest wooden structure. Please note that for naked iron pipe this offset should increase to 500 mm on each side. The issue can be resolved in two ways:

you need to assemble or purchase a ready-made ceiling-passage assembly, which is a metal box of the required dimensions, filled with non-flammable insulation;
install a square samovar-type water tank directly in the ceiling, heated by exhaust gases.

Scheme of installing a tank in the ceiling (left) and a ceiling-pass assembly (right)

Note. The first option is most often implemented, since the water tank requires additional fasteners due to its decent weight.

The step-by-step installation of a vertical sandwich chimney in a bathhouse looks like this:

Having clearly defined the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling, cut a square opening in the ceiling, whose dimensions are determined by the formula 380 x 2 + d (inner diameter of the round channel).
Find out where the flue will cross the roof. If it gets into the rafter, cut an opening away from it, and during the installation process, bypass the structure using two elbows at 30 or 45°.
Attach the first section of a single-wall steel pipe with a built-in damper to adjust the draft to the stove pipe. Coat the joint with heat-resistant sealant and secure with a clamp.
Install the adapter and assemble the entire chimney from the sandwich, inserting sections one into another “along the condensate”.
Fill the boxes of the passage units with non-flammable insulation - basalt wool or expanded clay. To prevent leakage, put a special roofing gasket on the chimney - master flash (otherwise known as roofing). Seal all joints at the top.

Advice. When choosing the intersection of the roof, do not forget that the shaped parts (30° elbows) can be rotated in different planes and thus bring the head closer to the ridge or further from it.

To prevent the chimney from loading the sauna stove with its weight, attach it with clamps and brackets to wooden beams and other designs. How to make a chimney in a bathhouse with a passage through the ceilings and roof is described in the video:

Installation of a flue crossing a wall

It happens that for various reasons (for example, a bathhouse is located in one of the premises of a private house), the chimney duct must be immediately led out into the street through the wall. If it is built from timber or rounded logs, then the passage unit is made in the same way as through a wooden floor.

Non-combustible walls made of stone, brick or concrete do not need fire protection. There's enough to do in them round hole, whose diameter larger size chimney by 15-20 mm, insert an iron sleeve and insert a pipe there, followed by a seal. In general, the assembly of the chimney is similar, but with some differences:

Since the entire vertical section is located outside, a condensate collection section must be installed below. To do this, install a sandwich tee at the outlet of the wall.
Fastening is carried out with clamps and wall brackets with the possibility of adjustment, as shown in the diagram.
If smoke channel mounted on the side wall of the house with gable roof, then you will probably have to go around the roof overhang using two elbows with a rotation of 30°.
The minimum lifting height is 5 m. At the same time, the chimney head should not fall into the leeward zone of the roof and, if necessary, rises higher.

Minimum lift height above leeward zone

Important point. The points where the pipe is attached to the brackets should not fall on the joints of the sections of the modular sandwich.

It is not necessary to cover the mouth of the chimney pipe with a cap - water falling from above will safely drain into the lower section of the condensate collector. Plus, the flue will be periodically flushed of soot. To learn about which channel laying method is best to choose, see the following video:

How to clean a smoke duct

It takes a lot of effort to get the insides of the chimney from a sauna stove covered with a thick layer of soot. For deposits to form, the heater must constantly operate in slow smoldering mode or be “refueled” with damp wood. In both cases, it will not be possible to heat the bathhouse properly. In normal mode, high-temperature gases simply burn out the soot in the pipe and no blockages arise there.

Now about how to clean a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands if plaque does appear on the walls and the draft force has decreased:

Place dry wood of high-calorie species with a low resin content in the furnace firebox: acacia, oak, ash or aspen. Burn the fuel with the ash-burner fully open at the maximum setting to burn off the soot.
Clean the flue using a special “Chimney Sweeper” log, burning it strictly according to the instructions on the package.
Using a brush attached to a rope with a load, perform mechanical cleaning pipe, reaching its head.

For a master class on making a homemade brush and removing soot from a chimney, watch the next video:

Conclusion

Our instructions step-by-step assembly A sandwich chimney for a bathhouse is equally suitable for the installation of single-wall stainless steel pipes. The difference lies in the large openings for crossing combustible floors - a space of 50 cm will be required instead of 38 cm. It is also recommended to insulate areas laid in a cold attic and above the roof. If done correctly, the result will be the same sandwich, only homemade.

Despite the wide range of electric and gas boilers in modern market, solid fuel stoves are in no hurry to give up their positions. Thanks to the autonomy of use and affordable price, they are optimal choice For country houses, cottages and baths.

For correct and safe work stove, it is necessary to correctly design and install the chimney. But often, at the stage of building a house, people miss the need to install a chimney simultaneously with the construction of walls. This problem has many solutions: output through ceilings, roofing. The best option would be to install a chimney through the wall, which will not only help to significantly save interior space, but also reduce the number of units and passages through the ceilings.

We will tell you in this article how to carry out installation correctly and what materials are best to use.

Despite the huge selection of materials for the construction of chimneys, double-circuit ones are most widely used today. steel pipes, popularly called “sandwich”.

The sandwich type chimney is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes different diameters a layer of thermal insulation material is laid, which simultaneously serves as insulation and insulation.

Video: Chimney made from sandwich pipes

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel 0.5 mm thick, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and better technical characteristics. To install a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. Indeed, due to only one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to a sharp temperature difference, condensation forms in such a chimney, reducing draft and creating blockages in the pipe.

Therefore, for installing a chimney through a wall, the most the best option will be the purchase of sandwich pipes. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to low price compared with brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, you can do the installation of a chimney made of this material yourself. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

Advantages and disadvantages of sandwich pipes

The thermal insulation layer prevents the outer pipe from heating to a critical temperature.
Compact and versatile in use.
The smooth surface of the inner casing increases the chimney draft.
Low price compared to ceramic material.
Operating temperature up to 850 degrees (for single-circuit pipes, for comparison, 500 0).
Easy to assemble.
The fire safety of the home increases.
Easy maintenance compared to a solid pipe chimney (less soot accumulation).
Does not create additional noise when drafting smoke.

The only drawback of the multilayer structure is the decrease in sealing after a long time. Due to sudden temperature changes, air can enter at the junction of sections.

Technical characteristics of sandwich pipes

Material. Basalt fiber is mainly used as a thermal insulation material ( mineral wool). This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and chemicals. Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation/sound insulation properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. More expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used for the inner casing.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly made of galvanized steel, and the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Connection type. Sandwich pipe elements are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but to ensure tightness it is necessary a large number of sealant, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, due to which the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for very precise adjustment of all parts.

Chimney installation rules

In no case should the chimney be laid in the place where communications pass (electrical wiring, sewerage, etc.).
To minimize heat loss, it is recommended to locate most of the structure indoors.
The outer part of the chimney must end with a deflector to prevent precipitation from getting inside. Don't forget about the snow guard. They will protect the gas outlet channel from damage.
Keep the step of fastening the structure to the wall no more than one meter to avoid further curvature of the chimney.
The passage of the pipe through the wall must be additionally protected thermal insulation material. To do this, the diameter of the hole needs to be made slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe.
The sandwich pipe cannot be installed as the first pipe above the combustion tank. It is preceded by the so-called “sandwich start”.
The length of horizontal straight sections of the chimney should not exceed 1 m.
When designing a chimney, make sure that when passing through the wall there is a single pipe without joints. All connections must be visible and directly accessible.

Selecting the type of chimney outlet

A chimney through a wall can be done in two ways. The first option involves raising the pipe closer to the ceiling and then exiting. The second option represents a design that goes directly from the boiler in a straight line.

With the second option, almost the entire chimney ends up outside the house. The advantage of this type of design is that only one elbow will need to be used, which will affect the efficiency of traction. And the likelihood of soot plugs forming is much less.

Before execution installation work, it is necessary to draw an assembly plan, calculating the diameter of the chimney and its height. There are some factors to consider.

Warm air rises, which means the higher the chimney, the greater the draft. It also depends on the diameter, so it is very important to correctly determine what size chimney you need. Its size is also affected by the power of the heating device.

Calculate the diameter of the structure

The diameter of the double-circuit pipe directly depends on the size of the boiler installation pipe. Therefore, it is difficult to draw an installation diagram without knowing what type of heating device will be used. A simple rule applies here: the inner casing of the sandwich should in no case be smaller than the pipe itself. You can take more.

For example, if the diameter of the outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the internal diameter of the sandwich pipe should be the same size or larger. In no case should you allow “narrowing” at the junction of the pipes and throughout the entire chimney, otherwise this may affect the draft.

The diameter of the chimney is also affected by the type of heating device. Therefore, if you are building a smoke exhaust structure before purchasing a stove or boiler, then immediately take into account its power.

If the power of the heating device does not exceed 3.5 kW, then you can limit the diameter of the internal casing to 80 mm. For more powerful boilers (up to 5.2 kW), the pipe size should be increased to 95 mm. The larger the diameter of the inner pipe, the faster it will cool.

Determining the height of the chimney

Calculating the height of the chimney pipe depends on the overall height of the house. If the height of the house is small (up to 5 meters), the height of the chimney in any case should be at least 5 meters. A short chimney can cause “smoke” in the house, and the power of the device is significantly reduced due to poor draft. And an excessively long pipe will increase fuel consumption, as if “forcing” the operation of the heating device, which affects low efficiency heating system.

The optimal pipe length is considered to be in the range of 5-10 meters.

If the house is higher than 10 meters, then we focus on the ridge of the roof. The chimney should be 0.5 meters higher than the ridge to avoid creating turbulence. Consider also the material from which the roof is made. If the roof is covered with flammable material, then the top of the chimney should be 1 meter from the ridge.

How will we assemble the sandwich: by smoke or condensation?

Before you start construction work, you should decide on the type of assembly of the pipes themselves: “smoke” or “condensate”.

The “smoke” design is characterized by building sections inward (visible clearly in the figure):

Inner tube: The bottom element is inserted inside the top element of the sandwich.

The outer pipe is built in the same way as the inner one. The lower section is inserted inside the upper contour.

Each subsequent section is built upon the previous element, as if being put on top. This type of chimney connection is best used in stoves with high combustion temperatures.

The “condensate” design is built using the opposite method:

Inner tube: take the upper section of the sandwich and insert it into the lower part.

Outer pipe: Here you have to do the opposite method. Take the lower element of the outer pipe and insert it inside the outer pipe of the upper element.

With this construction, condensate flows freely along the outer casing of the chimney into a special sump.

When is it better to use this assembly scheme?

at low temperatures of combustion products;
for external installation of a chimney;
in stoves with a long burning function;
in fireboxes with smoldering combustion.

Differences between smoke and condensate connections

Considering our task - to assemble a chimney outside the house, the choice of the type of sandwich connection is obvious. Pipes outside the house, exposed to low temperatures, will cool faster, which means that the likelihood of condensation forming is high. Under the influence of moisture, soot begins to dissolve, forming acids. These substances pose a serious threat to pipe surfaces.

What tools are needed for installation through a brick or concrete wall?

screwdriver;
construction gloves to protect hands;
ladder;
building level (to check the verticality of the chimney installation);
perforator (for a hole in the wall).

What materials are needed for installation?

metal box (pipe);
dowels;
sandwich pipe set;
silicone sealant (necessarily heat-resistant!);
tee (necessary to change the direction of the smoke and connect the pipe directly to the firebox of the heating apparatus).
knee (45 0 or 90 0);
support console, bracket (the entire structure is supported on it);
clamps for connecting sections;
plug (protective umbrella from precipitation and debris).

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney through a wall (brick or concrete)

Preparatory work. Determining the location of the chimney.
Installation of a heating device (fireplace, boiler, stove, etc.)
Making a pipe outlet hole through the wall.
Installation of a pipe (metal box)
Connection of pipe and boiler.
Pipe outlet and connection to the tee.
Attaching the bracket to the wall and connecting to the tee.
Installation of a chimney of the required height.
Attaching to the roof and installing the plug.

Video instructions for installing a chimney through a wall

Now let's take a closer look at each step of the instructions:

	We determine the place where the heating device will be located, and therefore the chimney will be laid. Consider the overall structure of the house, the exterior and the installed communications. Ideally, the outer part of the chimney should be on the gable side. If this is not possible, then it will be necessary to install it from the side of the slope, taking care of the safety and stability of the structure.
	We prepare the place where the heating device will be installed. The stove itself (fireplace, boiler) is installed on a non-combustible base. Make sure that the plane is perfectly level. To do this, check it with a building level.
	We use a marker on the wall to mark the future opening for the chimney passage. To do this, measure the height of the stove and the smoke exhaust pipe. Consider not only the diameter of the pipe, but also the fire safety standards of the thermal insulation layer that will need to be laid between the pipe and the wall. It doesn't matter what shape you make the hole: square or round. This has no effect on fire safety, if all standards are met. Consider the size of the box. Double-check the size of the box and the markings on the wall. If everything matches, then proceed to cutting the hole.
	We make a hole through the wall using a hammer drill. We make insulation from non-combustible materials. For brick or concrete walls will do polyurethane foam, but you can also use asbestos sheet.
	We insert a box from the resulting opening into non-flammable material. According to industrial safety standards, the thickness of the pipe must exceed the thickness of the ceilings by 7 cm.
	We install the horizontal part of the chimney. To do this, we connect a single chimney (starting sandwich) to the branch pipe using the “by smoke” method, that is, insert the starting sandwich inside the branch pipe. Be careful to ensure that the connection is made at a strictly 90 degree angle.
	We fix the sandwich strictly in the center of the box, and fill the distance between the walls of the pipe and the opening with heat-resistant insulation (you can use foiled mineral wool). From the outside of the wall (from the street), we close the opening with a box plate.
	We bring the pipe through the wall to the street and connect the tee. The lower part of the tee is allocated for condensate collection. The element may end with a removable glass, which will have to be removed and cleaned periodically during operation of the chimney. It’s better to purchase a model with a fitting and a small tap. Maintaining such a chimney will be much easier. It is enough to connect the hose to the fitting and unscrew the rotary tap, thus draining all the condensate. But keep in mind that the substances that accumulate at the bottom of the tee are very toxic. Therefore, do not drain them through the hose directly to the house, but take them to the side at a safe distance. Also make sure that there is not a single joint in the path of the sandwich through the wall. If the length of the pipe is not enough to lay it through the hole in one piece, then cut the previous element with a hacksaw and make a joint to the entrance.
	We mount the support bracket using dowels with external wall Houses. It will bear the main structure, so take care of its reliability and stability. You can build the bracket yourself using stainless steel pipes, which are welded at an angle of 90 degrees, with additional support.
	We assemble the chimney from individual sections of the sandwich using the previously chosen method (“by smoke” or “by condensate”). You can easily figure out how to do this, since one part of a double-circuit pipe is always of a smaller diameter. We “strengthen” the joints of the connected sections with metal clamps. Simply wrap the clamp around the pipe, pull it tightly along the diameter of the sandwich and tighten with bolts or nuts. Treat the joint area additionally with sealant. The fastening step should be approximately at least 1 meter, but more frequent fixing is allowed to avoid curvature of the chimney. Whatever assembly element you choose, it is best to install elbows and tees “on condensate”. All joints are treated well with sealant.
	We fix the structure along the entire length of the chimney with additional ties and brackets. Make sure that the clamp does not come into contact with the pipes. The solid part of the double-circuit pipe is fixed. If the height of the pipe above the roof exceeds 2 meters, then it is necessary to secure it with a metal cable or an additional bracket under the roof.
	We put a deflector or protective umbrella on the top of the pipe, which prevents debris and precipitation from getting inside. The choice of deflector or protective umbrella determines the type of heating device. According to building codes, installing a deflector on a chimney gas boiler is not executed. For such a device it is better to install a weather vane. It will prevent the gas boiler from blowing out, creating turbulence and improve draft.

Instructions for installing a chimney through a wooden wall

In general, the installation process through wooden walls is similar to installing a chimney through concrete or brick wall However, some nuances related to fire safety should be taken into account. The maximum temperature at which wood begins to char is 200 0. At 300 0 it begins to burn.

Unlike the previous installation, here it is necessary to pay great attention to the insulation of chimney ducts through the ceilings, so as not to burn the house and not create smoke interior spaces. Moreover, this applies to the entire length of the chimney, starting from the heating boiler and ending with the roof of the house.

We will need the following tools for work:

screwdriver;
sharp knife;
electric drill (for attaching the bracket);
jigsaw;
drill;
building level (to check the verticality of the chimney installation).

Prepare the following materials:

metal box for passage through a wooden wall;
dowels;
sandwich pipe;
sealant;
tee;
elbow (45 0 or 90 0) depending on the design of the chimney;
bracket;
clamps for connecting sections;
asbestos sheet;
foiled mineral wool (for insulating the pipe opening);
protective cap, spark-extinguishing mesh.

	We determine the location of the pipe outlet (along a horizontal line from the stove or under the ceiling). Draw out the required hole diameter with a pencil or marker. Counting general scheme design, do not get carried away with too many bends and transitions, as this may affect the further efficiency of the heating system. Two or three transitions with a change in direction will be enough, and even then try to use a guide angle of 450. Also consider the distance of the chimney duct from the wall. According to fire safety requirements, it must be at least 50 cm for wooden walls.
	We prepare the place where the heating device will stand (fireplace, stove, boiler). Considering the wooden floors, you need to make a podium from cement screed above the floor to a height of 20 cm or (if this is not possible) lay a heat-resistant coating made of galvanized steel - asbestos cardboard.
	If there are wooden walls at a distance of less than 50 cm, then it is necessary to build a protective screen made of brick to the height of the boiler. When installing solid fuel stove(potbelly stoves), preferably brickwork from wooden wall separate additional thermal insulation(asbestos cement sheet). Make sure that the plane is perfectly level. Always check with a building level.
	We make a hole in the wall (consider not only the diameter of the pipe, but also the place where the heat-insulating layer is laid between the pipe and the wall). We install a protective metal box. We carefully insulate the distance between the inserted box and the wall with basalt fiber. Additionally, to increase fire safety, we wrap the passing pipe with asbestos sheet.
	We remove the pipe from the boiler strictly at an angle of 900. This is a very important point and any deviations are not allowed here, as this will subsequently affect the efficiency of the heating device. We make sure that there is no pipe joint in the section of the transition through the wall. If you see that the length of the pipe is not enough, you need to trim the previous pipe and build a solid sandwich element onto it.
	We carefully insulate the pipe passage through the wall with heat-insulating material, and screw it to the outside of the house with self-tapping screws metal plate, protecting wooden surface from overheating.
	We install a tee on the pipe, which will serve as a smoke direction vector. The lower part of the tee is designed to collect condensate. We make sure that it is clearly positioned perpendicular to the chimney outlet pipe through the wall. All seams are carefully treated with sealant. We attach a stable support to the wall of the house or to the ground, depending on the general design chimney channel.
	We begin the vertical expansion of the gas exhaust channel from the bottom up according to the previously selected type (“through smoke” or “through condensate”).
	Every 100 cm (60 cm is possible) we fix the chimney to the wall with metal brackets. We ensure the strict verticality of the structure. To do this, use a level, checking that there is no deviation. It is also very important to make fastenings opposite the solid part of the chimney duct, and not at its junction. We fix the upper part of the pipe with a metal clamp and be sure to install a snow retainer on the roof so that the structure is not damaged by precipitation.
	We install the cap on the sandwich cut using bolts or self-cuts. To improve traction, use a deflector. When installing a chimney in wooden house, you can play it safe and attach a spark-extinguishing mesh to the deflector. It will protect the roof from sparks. This metal grid It will also reliably protect the chimney from leaves, birds, and debris getting inside.

As you can see, installing a chimney through a wall does not require highly qualified and more experience. The main thing is to correctly calculate the height and diameter of the chimney and purchase high-quality material.

If you pay attention to all the points and strictly follow the instructions, you will definitely cope with this task. And the video will help you visually study the process of installing a chimney.