DIY pull out sofa. How to make a sofa with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Step-by-step guide to creating a frameless model

In the furnishing of an apartment, one of the most important places is given to the sofa. Sometimes there are several of them - in the kitchen, in the living room, in the hallway. There is a huge selection of such interior items in stores, however, some craftsmen make them with their own hands, because they simply know how to do it. Read more about how to make a sofa with your own hands, its advantages, necessary materials and decoration, in this article.

DIY rounded sofa

IN independent production the sofa has its advantages:

  • low cost - when calculating the cost of materials and evaluating the result, it turns out that the resulting product costs an order of magnitude less than its store-bought counterpart;
  • originality - you can make a sofa that no one else will have;
  • this is a matter of pride - not everyone will undertake to make furniture with their own hands;
  • independent quality control of materials and fastenings;
  • The piece of furniture is made to individual sizes;
  • if in the future you need to reupholster the sofa, it’s easy to do it yourself;
  • it is a creative process that brings joy.

Among the disadvantages, it should be noted that the necessary tools are not available in every home, so you will have to borrow them from friends or rent them.

Advice. You should use high-quality environmentally friendly materials, working power tool.

Types of sofas by type of transformation

First you need to decide where the future sofa will be located, how it will be used - only for sitting or also for sleeping at night. It should fit well into the existing interior in color and size. A large sofa is not suitable for a cramped room; in a spacious room, a miniature corner or straight sofa will simply get lost. Its upholstery should match the color of the rest of the draperies in the room or create a bright accent.

There are the following varieties:


There are also U-shaped, built-in options, but this design is overly complex to implement at home. If you have the skills of a woodcarver, you can create a unique sofa in the baroque or classicism style. It is also possible to make a rocking sofa, which is suspended on iron supports in a country garden.

Garden swing or rocking sofa with natural wood structure

Advice: before starting production, take all the necessary measurements, calculate the height and weight of those who will sleep on it.

Drawings, sofa diagrams

Drawing of a corner sofa with dimensions

Let's see how to do it corner sofa with your own hands. First you need to make a few sketches general view from different sides, draw a diagram, detailed drawing with all dimensions, indicating all significant elements and moving parts. If the design is being made for the first time, you should choose the simplest drawing, without unnecessary details. The angle of the backrest and the height of the legs can be adjusted as desired.

Tenon joints Only a professional carpenter can do it efficiently. You can come up with a drawing yourself or choose the simplest option on the Internet. Connecting with nails is not an option, it will not be durable; you should prefer connecting with self-tapping screws, which will ensure a strong fastening for many years. The preferred wood is pine and spruce - they are durable and strong.

Advice. Some make this piece of furniture from Euro pallets, old boards and chairs, outdated interior doors, thick timber, tires, but it’s so “rough” the sofa will do not for every interior.

Necessary materials, tools

In order to make an unusual sofa with your own hands, you will need some materials purchased in the store:

  • pine timber, with dimensions 50 by 30 mm;
  • Fiberboard panels, 3 mm thick;
  • plywood 5 and 15 mm;
  • Chipboard, with a thickness of about 16 mm;
  • microlift or other lifting mechanism;
  • nine furniture legs or bars 7 by 20 cm;
  • thick foam rubber 40-100 mm;
  • upholstery fabric;
  • pillow filling.

To perform the work you need various tools:

  • jigsaw or hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill, drill bits;
  • construction stapler;
  • sharp knife for cutting foam rubber;
  • fastening elements – self-tapping screws, self-tapping screws;
  • PVA and wood glue;
  • sewing machine for upholstery, pillows, covers.

Tools you may need to make a sofa

If open wooden parts– armrests, wooden legs, then they are covered with stain, varnish, paint. For rooms with high humidity Special wood impregnations are used to protect the structure from mold and rot. Sometimes MDF or laminated boards are used instead of wood.

Tip: if the room is cramped, you won’t be able to cut the materials efficiently. Then this can be done upon purchase - most companies and stores provide this service.

The design manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

Before you start assembling the sofa, parts are marked on pieces of chipboard in accordance with the drawing and dimensions. Afterwards they are cut out and adjusted to each other.

What details should you get?

  • The frame or linen box is the main part of the structure; everything else is attached to it; it is made of boards and bars. The middle is reinforced with transverse slats, the bottom is made of fiberboard or plywood. Slats are placed on the frame to support the mattress.

    We make a frame-box with a storage box

  • Armrests - they are made of chipboard, two identical or different, depending on the intended design. Assembly occurs by attaching smaller parts to large parts.

    Armrest frame the right size wrap with padding polyester and then pull on the cover

  • The back is attached when all the parts are already connected. It has the form of a rectangle with at least one transverse strip; lamellas are also attached to it.

    We make the frame of the back, sew it up and bottom part sofa stove

  • Seats - they are assembled in parts, and it is important to take into account the coincidence of the diagonals of the boxes in order to obtain a normal shape, a stable frame.

    For the seat, a sheet of matching size is cut out, foam rubber is glued onto it, spandbond and padding polyester are laid

  • Legs - cut out of wood or purchased ready-made, wooden, metal.

    We attach the frames with legs to the frame and connect them with long screws through the holes in the legs

Before assembly, the sides are drilled; to make a folding sofa, special mechanisms are used, sold in furniture fittings stores. The frame of the product is assembled very carefully - the strength, durability, and stability of this piece of furniture depend on it.

Advice. After assembly, all parts are glued. They must first be well sanded.

Sewing a cover, covering

Before starting the sheathing, check all the joints - the fastening should be as rigid as possible, nothing should “lobble”. The surfaces to be sheathed are measured, each part is cut out, glued, then the next one is measured, cut, and glued. The elements are joined to each other, they must be properly trimmed, and the trimmings must be used to form the joints. A thick layer of foam rubber is laid on the seat - at least 100 mm. To do this, it is glued together from several thin sheets. To design the sidewalls, 40-60 mm is enough. At the end, check how tightly the upholstery fits, whether all protruding corners and sharp parts are well covered.

We attach the side parts to the corner part, connecting the lower parts of the walls

Then they move on to the casing furniture fabric– it is chosen to be wear-resistant, high-quality, beautiful. Depends on it appearance finished product. Fabric can be purchased at any textile or furniture store.

We sew the cut parts for the seat, back and pillows from upholstery fabric

The most popular types are:

  • jacquard – premium upholstery, characteristic features– deep texture, silky sheen, average wear resistance, difficult to clean;

    Jacquard colors and patterns hold up well and do not fade

  • tapestry - suitable for “elite” finishing of a sofa, this fabric has a special durable structure, a unique pattern, and a pleasant texture;

    Tapestry is a fabric with an incredibly aesthetic appearance, but its price is quite significant for any budget

  • velor - natural is quite expensive, artificial is cheaper, looks like soft suede, sometimes with patterns;

    Velor is a fabric similar to velvet, but with a denser and longer pile

  • matting is the most budget option, reminiscent of burlap, pleasant to the touch, and does not wear out for a long time;

    Furniture fabric matting with unusual weaving, available in various colors and shades

  • flock is a textile with dense pile, suitable for those who have pets, has high wear resistance, and is not afraid of animal claws;

    Flock is a pleasant and soft fabric with artificial pile

  • leatherette - very resistant to abrasion, has a luxurious appearance, indispensable on armrests, places where increased friction occurs, unpleasant when in contact with a naked body in the heat;

    Artificial leather is a modern upholstery material with improved dust- and water-repellent properties.

  • genuine leather is pleasant to the touch, environmentally friendly, durable, but extremely expensive.

    Genuine furniture leather is a durable, elastic, wear-resistant upholstery material

If you combine two or three fabrics at the same time, the product will come out very original, but it is important to choose the upholstery correctly.

How the upholstery is made:

  • Patterns of each part are cut out from newspapers or wallpaper, their coincidence is checked by applying them to the surfaces of the sofa;
  • on the wrong side of the fabric, borders are drawn, details are cut out, leaving allowances of at least one centimeter on each side;
  • the tensions are made symmetrically, so the finished sofa will look harmonious, there will be practically no folds;
  • so that the fabric holds better, buttons and loops are secured through holes on the body;
  • if you put a layer of agrotextile or synthetic padding under the upholstery, the foam rubber will crumble much less;
  • textiles are fastened using a construction stapler, first one side, then the opposite, the edges are tucked in.

After this, the sofa is assembled again and made decorative pillows, harnesses, brushes, machine stitches. legs, wooden overlays attached at the very end.

The final stage is decoration

Ready-made corner sofa made to measure

The sofa is decorated with bright pillows or in the color of the upholstery. This is the easiest way. If you make several sets of different covers, you can change them depending on your mood, time of year - for winter decoration Faux fur is suitable, for summer - cotton, linen. Sometimes one side of the pillow is decorated with embroidery, appliqué, bright prints, small soft toys, cords, knitted elements, while the other side remains smooth. Design using the patchwork technique is also acceptable, and sometimes a removable cover is also made. Regardless of the size of the sofa, you should not use more than five pillows. It's better that they are various shapes, size, texture.

The cover for the sofa is selected to match the interior: it should go well with other textiles in the room - curtains, carpet, chair covers, etc.

The material most often used for it is:

  • fur - natural or artificial, creates a unique comfort;
  • acrylic – very durable, non-allergenic;
  • terry fabric - available in all kinds of colors;
  • tapestry - suitable for a “rich” classic interior;
  • silk, satin - look luxurious and expensive.

Blankets for decoration upholstered furniture made from bamboo, fleece, viscose, acrylic, cotton, silk. You can also make your own or buy a sofa cover in a store - it is convenient because it does not slip, it is easy to wash, but store-bought ones are quite expensive. A homemade one is sewn on a machine according to patterns made according to the size of the structure.

Conclusion

Make a regular or corner sofa with my own hands, with some carpentry skills, quality materials, tools, quite easily. Detailed master classes, photos and video reviews are available on many websites dedicated to the subject of furniture and repairs. It will cost this homemade design much cheaper than store-bought analogues, and besides, it will be made with soul, according to individual sizes.

Video: How to make a sofa with your own hands (homemade sofa)

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. IN small apartments a sofa can replace a bed, a wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, the sofa is a very complex product, one of the most complex in furniture production, therefore, the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take on them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, which are relatively low in functionality and are not particularly strong and durable. This publication is intended to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will be passed on to their grandchildren, unless they have to reupholster it. And designed for premises with the widest range of conditions of use: from garden gazebo to the kitchen and children's room.

This is not as difficult as it might seem and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for a summer house, a nursery, temporary use until you can get some money for furniture) is quite possible in a garage, barn and even on a balcony. This is how old-time furniture makers worked. High-tech “bells and whistles” make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of the properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the furniture design is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions during its manufacture can almost always be replaced by even more labor-intensive ones that require skill with more ingenuity than that of a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor belt, but performed with hand tools.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is the corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially clearly manifested in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping-living room sofa corner, pos. And in the figure, when folded, it does not have any sleeping appearance and the most orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (according to the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded it turns into a double bed. These are also called bachelor’s sofas: I’m tired, I’m not up to it – I’ll fall asleep in the one-room apartment. And the next (or forever only) passion has arrived - there is enough room for two to settle down, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, there is nothing complicated: a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa, uniformly designed and put together, like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in the corner is not only bad omen, but also inconvenient, so in recent years The corner seat is increasingly being replaced by a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. The layout of such a kitchen corner is shown in Fig. below. You can dine on it alone if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and trunks (as sofa boxes are called) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of household goods, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam diagram (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections is according to the location in the room; other sizes are standard, see below. The sidewall material is 40 mm hardwood board or 36 mm chipboard. The bottom of the sofa is 12-16 mm chipboard on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a 30 mm board, 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm beams (shelf supports). Assembly - with self-tapping screws, dowels and half-timber inserts, all with PVA or "Moment" sizing. At current prices, no more than 3,000 rubles worth of materials is required.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (load-bearing) structure, most often including a drawer, a bed - a sofa, if there is a lifting drawer, a backrest and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a drawer are added to them. Typical sofa sizes:

  • Length – 1200-1900 mm.
  • The width of the sofa is 550-700 mm.
  • The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
  • Back height, without extras. pillows – 200-700 mm.
  • Backrest tilt – 5-20 degrees.
  • The height of the “sitting” surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

  • Legs – 50-70 mm.
  • Support frame – 50-100 mm.
  • Box – 150-250 mm.
  • The bottom of the sofa (with frame) is 55-75 mm.

This leaves up to 120 mm for soft padding with sheathing. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work of making a sofa is its stuffing, upholstery and upholstery. These are different manufacturing operations; each of them separately and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are actively promoting themselves on the RuNet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with nonwoven materials(fleece, etc.), which in themselves are short-lived. Secondly, they are covered using a simplified system with the corners turned from the inside out, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the covering. And most importantly, with this method of work there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for reupholstery; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, serious preparatory work will be required. Its essential subtleties will be described below; Beginners are advised to upholster a sofa using the old amateur method using saddle stitch fitting. The pros don't do much work for them, because... it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of heyday?), when you had to sign up for furniture reupholstery a year in advance, and even give a bribe, it was successfully used by “complete dummies.” The sofa is covered step by step like this:

  1. The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (possibly propylene);
  2. Install soft padding, most often foam mats;
  3. They cover the soft material, in order of preference, with spandbond, padding polyester, or batting;
  4. On a piece of decorative fabric, the drawstrings are swept under the cords, if decorative scars/straps are provided, see below;
  5. The decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown over the product with the wrong side out, pulled in as described below, and the corners are swept away with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with the scar facing out;
  6. After a day, they check to see if the pattern is wrinkled, if it’s sagging, if the pattern, especially geometric, has moved, and if necessary, adjust the angles;
  7. If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
  8. Tighten the cords into the drawstrings for tightening, if necessary;
  9. Throw on the cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
  10. After another day, check the drawing and adjust the tension threads;;
  11. Everything is OK – the lapels are secured;
  12. Decorative ties are formed.

The procedure, as we see, is quite complicated and lengthy. This is explained by the fact that the properties of fabrics, incl. upholstery, vary noticeably within a piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience; now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional computer cutting programs. Homemade templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the fabric consumption. A rough estimate of the method: the length of a cut with a width of 150 cm is equal to 2 widths of the sofa + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the length of the cut using templates (allowance from 15 cm) saves lengths of up to 1 m (!); how much is it in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if you are reupholstering a sofa, it is not advisable to use it as a pattern old cladding. Under a microscope or magnifying glass, it is clearly visible that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same jacquard or tapestry from the same loom.

Paragraphs also require additional clarification. 1-3. If you stuff the skin hastily, wood-glue-sintepon-foam rubber-decor, then after a while you will find that the skin is greasy, sticky to the touch, especially in summer, and the dearest parts of the body feel uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what kind of lifespan is this for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads on both the bottom and top to remove evaporation/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and drawer, if the design of the item does not include any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. In this case, fabric folds at the joints do not reduce the strength of the connection because vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads are supported by additional loads. fasteners, see below.

Note: The famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of ​​silent blocks in tracks came to him while he was renovating his sofa. It’s not surprising that the rich man tinkered with the furniture himself; Christie was an engineer of the second class. Ι genus rearranges pieces of paper at the table, and ΙΙth can do everything he comes up with with his hands.

A sofa and its lifting mechanism are installed on the box (in the simplest case - piano/card hinges and a limiting cord). Perhaps the sofa will be hard with a loose mattress lying on it. In any case, the sofa is also covered separately in advance.

A special case is office sofas, etc., used in unfavorable conditions in case of inaccurate use. Their supporting system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for those who like to use the compounds shown there with confirmations obliquely. With special equipment and accessories, “oblique screws” are economical and technologically advanced and therefore widely used in industrial production furniture classes up to middle. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, drilling very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and in 2 mating parts at once is problematic, if not impossible. And self-tapping screws that move to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple beam sofa is shown in Fig. It is most suitable for a gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, the pillows are brought/taken away as they are used, and before assembly, the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (can be worked off) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion. Finish – acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

At the dacha, where rain still doesn’t pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a homemade sofa with a simplified beam system, its arrangement is on the left side of the trail. rice. Its basis is strong side armrests and a pair of cross beams. Completes the power circuit of the box-bridge; in this case, it is necessary to have 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

  • Armrests - 20-24 mm plywood with board overlays on top (to make them wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen) 30-36 mm chipboard.
  • Box – oak/beech board 30 mm; bottom – plywood from 6 mm.
  • Beam legs - any commercial wood.
  • The back is the same, shield, (300-400)x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled; this method will be useful to us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to the timber beams, but also to the sidewalls from the inside using a zigzag (snake) in increments of 120-150 mm, with a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the board. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a larger proportion of dynamic alternating signs, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to pile the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon become loose. According to this scheme, a children's sofa with drawers, shown on the right in the figure, is assembled; The diagram for assembling the boxes is there at the bottom right. The material of all lengths is oak/beech 30 mm; the sides and bottom of the sofa are plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - with glue.

Note: It is not worth using laminated chipboard - for children's furniture only phenol class E0 is acceptable, but this material is quite fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to lift a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, you won’t be able to lift the sofa back: the back gets in the way. All that remains is to lift forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the owner is not two meters tall, how can she put/get something? Roll the whole thing into the box and squeak, kicking your slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly - it does not require high precision execution; the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique diamond with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa-ottoman with it, is shown in Fig.

Note: The author is aware of the curious case of an oblique rhombus. A drinking, but skilled man, while making this ottoman, fenced off the nooks behind the levers (they say, there are some kind of mechanics there too) and arranged in them hiding places for bottles with the required drink. I even brought out the tubes under the trim behind the back. And the better half was more than 10 years old, until he went into a deep hole and split up himself, and it was not clear why this faithful person was a loser every day, but did not run to the store for a bottle.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and also in the professional, world, innovative works appear here all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for folding out a classic sofa-book is quite capricious. Either it jams/seizes, then assembling/disassembling the sofa is difficult for ladies' hands, or it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the selected sample discovers that the rough-looking piece of iron has curved surfaces made with fairly high precision, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, amateurs most often make sofa beds as roll-out/pull-out ones.

Here, the most common are 2 systems, with a retractable half of the bed free, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles heel is its legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravity ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break; the sofa sagging when pulled out will help.

The bridge circuit is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also bedside tables. True, you will have to reach for them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep feet first.

The structure of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge circuit is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper pair of rollers (guides/stops) run in the grooves of the drawer. Pay attention to Det. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but simply a decorative overlay. The surfaces of sleeping halves A and B are, naturally, flush. The half-box A is often made to fold forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by the cover B. Then the small drawers D are opened. Lovers of “strawberries and cream” (erotomaniacs/nymphomaniacs, a surprisingly monotonous and primitive-minded public) consider them reliable hidden secret places and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: transforming a sofa into a bed requires some extra free space behind the backrest. This doesn’t happen in a small bedroom, and trash accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console design, now for some reason completely undeservedly relegated to the background, are deprived of this defect.

How the console sofa bed is arranged is shown in Fig. right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional widening of the console and increasing the height of the backrest, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal two-bed bed). The excess width of the assembled seat in this case is compensated by pillows, which when extended form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the utility room), they are stored in a box. Some tilt of the backrest is achieved due to the piano hinge, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood spacer under the lower hinge wing.

The main materials are 50x30 beams and 4-6 mm plywood. The armrests are based on solid waste construction timber. The console frame is of the same design as for the box. Connections - through tenons or met. corners, no matter. The height of the cushions is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, so for use in normal conditions it is advisable to increase the height of the console and place the box on legs.

About Eurobooks

The concept of the euro is no longer being discussed. Moldovans, for example (they have experience communicating with local guest workers) dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk with euros (to the point of death, to the point of a green serpent, blue devils and pink elephants), and go to the toilet with euros a lot (no constipation or diarrhea). And an ordinary folding sofa bed is now often on sale not just like that, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but a Euro-book sofa of the click-clack type (see picture) is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To create a double bed, the armrests and sides of the backrest also recline. It is not clear what to call them. It doesn't look like headrests. Podkonchniks, or something. When unfolded, triangular gaps form in the heads/legs, which are covered by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to lay out the click-clack in the bed, you need at least 0.7 m along its contour free space. Where can I get it? Perhaps in a studio apartment, the occupant of which is embarrassed to show that he also sleeps here. However, such a state of mind is typical for today’s, and not only today’s, Europeans. You can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a sofa-book click-clack – well, that’s okay.

How to do it?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill and saw? Well, let's get started. Just don’t forget that what is being covered must be covered before general assembly. We’ll discuss how to cover something after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, and the making of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and drawer

In a professional, artisanal manner, so to speak, the supporting frame is assembled on blind tenons with wedging and gluing. They provide a completely hidden connection and furniture on these lasts for centuries, but to make them you need hand router woodworking skills, or mastery of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inserted legs, pos. 1 in Fig. This is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Beam cross-section from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 using glue.

The box is best assembled on triangular section bosses from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened to the box boards (oak/beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0)x45, 2-3 pcs. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with sizing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you take the time to assemble the box on dowels, a pair per joint, before installing the bosses.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the staples of the stapler do not fit into it well, many bend and tear the casing; wallpaper nails too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile and delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet and may simply fall through, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to reupholster the sofa, the chipboard/fibreboard bottom will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material will be torn apart so that you can no longer attach the new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick, impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if you need a box without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood as wide as the length of the sofa are not produced. The pieces need to be connected so that the joint is supported by the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are scraps that are enough for the bottom.

In industrial production quality furniture plywood sheets connected by a shaped plank made of hard wood, at the top at pos. 3. You can make the “shape” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its internal width). The gusset is fastened from the inside to the frames (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-shaped beam made of 50-70 mm strips with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner no less thick than plywood. It will give rigidity to the beam, and without it, the sheets assembled end-to-end will begin to mutually delaminate each other under work loads. Everything is assembled on small nails and secured in a box like a gusset.

Connect the box to the frame (remember, after the lining, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough to prevent it from sliding to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to the dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle on the short sides and 2-3 evenly along the length on the long sides.

Note: if the drawer is without bulkheads, the back height should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back drawer drawer will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the backrest (item 1 in the figure) is spar A made of hard board (120-150) x 40 mm. Most often, to simplify the work, it is made of sections, but a solid one will be stronger. This one is cut flush into the vertical posts and placed first on the dowels. It is also advisable to assemble the entire frame first on dowels, and then fasten it at the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. The bosses in this case can simply be scraps of timber, because The internal volume of the backrest is not used.

The height of H1 is equal to the height support frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 – the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of the bottom slab made of oak, etc. – from 40 mm. It, together with the spar and rectangular parts of the racks, makes up the lower backrest belt. This is a very responsible node, because The normal operating load of people reclining tends to tear it away from the lower support.

The normal number of stands for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pieces. evenly along the length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. also covers the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the outermost ones - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the backrest is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm. His “responsibility” is necessary when people stand on the back to reach something above or when the sofa is dragged by the back when moving furniture. Also here the upholstery is most likely to creep and wrinkle, so the top beam is planed into one plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can also be made of pine.

The production of the backrest is completed by upholstering it supporting surface plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. This is necessary to give the entire module the necessary rigidity for a strong connection with the support, but there is no need to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare poses. 2 and 3. The last one is a gross mistake that simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously worsens the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this backrest to the support? Self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards? How long will a sofa like this last before the back comes off?

Connection to support

Assembling a backrest with a support is exactly the case when metal fasteners in furniture are necessary. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the back parts with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the drawer/frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads into the drawer/frame), 3 of each per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are still springs under the nuts, it won’t be possible to tighten them later!

You need 2 corners for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the area of ​​greatest load (towards the spar), evenly along the length, and 1-2 horizontal at the bottom. It’s better to have 2, in case the sofa is dragged by the back. For fastening to the spar, it is better to use unequal angles 60x40 with holes in a narrow flange, located in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued with foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely covered. Leave the decor for later so as not to accidentally damage it. further work, it is impossible: it is unacceptable to insert the folds of the upholstery into the joint of the backrest and the support, and it will not be possible to cover it after installing the armrests.

Armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or framed like a backrest. They are also fully completed before installation. The load on them is less, so they are attached from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm with an envelope or a snake to the box, and 4-6 pieces to the support. in a row.

Armrests of complex shapes are most often made of frames. In fact, technologically they are not that complicated, pos. And in Fig. Decor in inside reaches the bottom edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional. sheathing made of slats approximately 30x40 and liners made of boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The sheathing is cut into the backrest posts, and the inserts are fastened with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame made of 70x50 timber with at least 1 cross members for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-timber insert and reinforced with self-tapping screws using glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars should be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see figure), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, in this case 50 mm of foam rubber disappears, but there is a significant advantage when covering it: staples/nails do not scratch the top of the drawer, and thanks to the extra bending, the covering of the sofa (the most loaded) lies more evenly and holds tighter.

Upholstery

The upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is done in different ways, but they all have a common sore spot - corners. Form them with a fold, as in Fig. on the right is a common method, but therefore no better quality. According to GOST USSR, turned upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and stitching corners of furniture fabrics is done in two ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second for those more susceptible to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But keep in mind that the numbers in Fig. approximate, fitting with a sketch is required!

The covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (bends) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoe spoon. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam; when sewing, it is folded back and left free.

Next comes tightening. If the corners have tongues, then the sheathing is leveled with them, and the tongues are secured. Then they pull the cover with a strong thread from the bottom along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, tightening the threads, achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is straightened with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as expected, fasten the edges with a distance of at least 5 cm from the edge of the fabric. If the type of product allows, fasten with a hem.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the drawer are upholstered as shown in Fig. The drawer is on 3 sides, the back remains open. This is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles with a height of approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press down the fabric. As a last resort, the sofa blank is placed on a couple of stools. It’s not possible to simply cover the back, because... it is already attached to the support. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of connection with the box, from under the bottom it is pulled on the trestles, like a sofa, and to tighten it from the sides, you will have to temporarily drive small nails into the support. Well, the armrests can be moved as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Individual cushions for a sofa are sewn in the same way as blocks of a frameless chair:

  1. The foam mat is covered with technical fabric;
  2. Sew the decorative cover inside out, leaving the final (lower back) seam unsewn;
  3. 2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastened towards each other;
  4. Insert the foam block into the decor and fasten the zippers.

Drawstrings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the seams between them. But a flat sofa does not harmonize with every design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with drawstrings, see fig. There are also 2 options available here, for lighter and denser fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn onto the edges of the cover under the drawstrings, and the drawstrings themselves are made when the cover is already secured. According to the 2nd option, the front scenes (tunnel sleeves) are sewn onto the workpiece under the cords and an even tension is achieved by alternately pulling the cords and the tension threads of the cover.

Beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is with decorative scars, see fig. You also need to sew scenes under them, but it is better to fill them with a flexible multi-core electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (can be vertical) wooden surface suitable size, even into the wall of a barn or doghouse.

The ends are stripped of 25-35 mm of insulation, twisted with British twist (British, shaved, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the inadvertently exposed wire core does not dig into a sensitive place, it is wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

A one-piece sofa cover is already aerobatics wallpaper business. However, what if a shabby but strong sofa made of mahogany or Karelian birch appears in your grandmother’s attic? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect smart connoisseurs. If you talk to them knowledgeably, they will charge a moderate fee and put their heart and soul into their work.

In such a case, as they say in “1001 Nights”, know that the basis for tightening a one-piece cover is the lines where the sofa connects with the armrests and the backrest. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. The cords are routed along the bisectors of flat angles (external) and the trisectors of triple (internal) angles along grooves in the wooden frame and, for triple angles, through holes in it. The cords are moderately stretched, their ends are secured and then the cover is straightened and pulled.

The drawstrings for the cords can be, depending on the design, front or back. The last case is the most difficult; the drawstring seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: generally a machine - main problem when upholstering a sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check whether it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than No. 20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

What about simpler?

As you can see, making and upholstering a sofa is not a big deal. Isn’t it possible to do something quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, in new apartment? To throw on any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called a sofa made of pallets. In general, a lot of things are made from construction pallets - pallets, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive, seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack from pallets can be made much more convenient by using the principle of an Adirondack-type garden chair, on the left in Fig. It’s a little more difficult to use them to build a rustic-style pull-out sofa bed in the center. And if you press harder (with a tool, not a glass), you can get a sofa that you can’t immediately tell is from a discarded container, on the right. For example, see what a sofa was made by a seemingly completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: DIY pallet sofa

This happens... with sofas...

Since we're talking about packaging, let's finish with a funny sofa. No comments are required, what is shown in Fig. speaks for itself. And it’s standing somewhere, they’re sitting on it, they’re lying...

Sofas that can transform into a full-fledged double bed are gradually replacing standard beds from apartments, especially small ones. After all, they are more compact.

An important factor is the wide choice finished products, able to fit into any interior and decorate it. They have standard sizes and have a high price, so sometimes there is a need to make a custom sofa bed with your own hands.

Related articles:

What is a sofa bed

The sofa bed is a symbiosis of two separate pieces of furniture. When folded, it functions as a comfortable sofa for relaxing. After the transformation there is a transformation into a comfortable sleeping place, which can be easily used by two people.

The shape of sofa beds can be corner, straight, round, modular. Thanks to the installation of a folding mechanism in the sofa, the furniture is transformed into a double bed.

Device and dimensions

All sofas come off the assembly line in standard sizes:

  1. permissible length – 120-190 cm;
  2. width – 55-70 cm;
  3. armrest height – 10-40 cm;
  4. back height – 20-70 cm;
  5. seat height – 40-45 cm.

Before you start making a sofa with your own hands, you need to study in detail the structure of numerous types of this product, which is directly related to the folding mechanism:

  • The book is represented by metal corner plates that connect the seat, back and armrests. They have been familiar to everyone for many years. The sofa-book unfolds by lowering the backrest from vertical position to horizontal. It is necessarily equipped with a linen drawer and requires some wall space for transformation. For this reason, the product is placed with a slight indentation or moved back a little before turning it into a bed.
  • Click-clack is a kind of book, only instead of soft upholstery the basis is a metal frame and slats. The mechanism received its name because of the characteristic sound that is heard during unfolding. The advantage of the design is the additional moving armrests, which are lowered and extend the berth. When folded, the click-clack takes up much less space than a book. In addition, the backrest can be fixed in a “half-sitting” position.
  • The accordion is transformed by pushing the seat forward, which, in turn, pulls the folded backrest behind it. When folded, such a sofa takes up little space, and after unfolding it triples in size. The accordion mechanism is durable and reliable. Manufacturers often supplement models with removable covers.

  • Meralat, or French folding bed, is a compact sofa. The sleeping area is hidden inside it under a seat attached to one segment. Folding occurs by lifting the seat from the back and turning it forward with support on steel legs. One segment attached to the back of the seat pulls the others, and the sofa can increase 3 times. There are models in which the seat is provided with cushions and folds out after removing them.
  • Sofas with a berth located under the seat. They are pulled forward through a roll-out mechanism. Then the segment rises up and the backrest lowers to a horizontal position.

When choosing any type of sofa for home production, you must first purchase a transformation mechanism and study the drawings for its installation and use.

How to make a sofa bed

Before you start producing a piece of furniture with a hidden sleeping place at home, you need to measure the available area for its installation and determine the maximum width of the sofa. Based on the data obtained, a detailed drawing of the product with assembly diagrams of the component elements is developed.

To understand how to make a sofa bed, consider the process of making a book.

Based on standard sizes, purchase:

  • boards 190x20 cm long - 2 pcs., 80x20 cm - 2 pcs., 80x50 cm - 2 pcs., 100x50 cm - 12 pcs.;
  • timber 5x5 and 6x4 cm;
  • sheet of fiberboard, plywood or chipboard;
  • wooden or metal legs (if provided for in the drawing);
  • filler (foam rubber, spring blocks);
  • fabric sheet for upholstery and lining of the frame and armrests;
  • book mechanism;

In addition, you need to prepare a measuring tool, pencil, scissors, screwdriver, electric jigsaw or hand saw, and fasteners.

Frame assembly

It is necessary to begin production by assembling the linen drawer. To do this, fold a rectangle of 2 long and 2 short boards. Strengthen the corners of the structure with 4 bars 20x5x5 cm, placing them on the outside and moving the short side boards 5 cm inward. Additionally, 2 slats are installed across the box. The bottom of the box is sewn up with a sheet of fiberboard or plywood.

At the same stage, you need to paste over the outer part of the box with padding polyester and upholster it with fabric. For this, a long canvas is used, equal to the perimeter of the entire box, width – 30 cm.

The next step is to make the back and seat yourself. According to the diagram, they have the same size 189x65 cm. For production, a 6x4 cm beam is used, in which it is recommended in advance milling machine make grooves for the slats. Fastening can be done without grooves, directly on top of the timber.

Seat cover

The fabric covering of the seat follows the same pattern as the backrests. The slats are covered with foam rubber and covered with fabric. To form a flat bed after unfolding, the thickness of the filler must be the same in both parts.

In the places where the transformation mechanism will be located, the fabric is not nailed down, but left to hang freely.

Back upholstery

To create the soft part, foam rubber with a thickness of at least 6 cm will be used. The thicker the filler, the softer the upholstery will be. Since the lamellas are located in the center of the back, pre-cut foam sheets are glued along the perimeter directly to the beam. In order to avoid problems with installing the folding mechanism in the future, 5x10 cm pieces are immediately cut out in the corners in the places where the back and seat will be connected.

Then a piece of fabric is placed on a flat surface, which is 25-30 cm larger than the backrest. The workpiece is placed on it with foam rubber downwards. Along the perimeter of the entire product, the fabric is carefully wrapped and slightly stretched to avoid wrinkles. Fastening is done using a construction stapler.

Hinge installation and assembly

The next stage of production is the installation of the “book” mechanism. The back and seat are placed side by side, maintaining a gap of 10 mm between them. You can insert something to prevent the parts from moving towards each other. Then a metal device is placed in the corners. The mechanism is attached to the wooden frame with self-tapping screws.

To install the top of the sofa, you need to pre-drill holes in the center of the side walls of the linen drawer. After placing the backrest and seat in right place you need to connect them with the bolts included in the kit. The holes in the mechanism and the boards must match.

Armrests

To make armrests, first assemble a frame from timber. Then a blank cut from fiberboard or plywood is screwed to it with self-tapping screws. The upper part of the part is softened with felt and foam rubber. A padding polyester is glued over the entire surface and covered with fabric.

When the armrests are completely ready, they are screwed to the bars that were previously installed in the corners of the linen drawer.

What do you do with old furniture?

The home sofa plays an important role in the life of every man. There is no need to be ironic about this. Many creative plans and ways to implement them were conceived on this piece of home furnishings.

You can buy a good sofa in a store, today this is not a problem. But is it real? home handyman miss the chance to try your hand at making upholstered furniture?

Material incentive is another weighty argument in favor of “ sofa project" If you calculate the cost of the materials needed for the work and compare it with the price tags of furniture stores, the savings will be very impressive.

In our article we will look at the implemented options homemade sofas and give a brief description of their manufacture. In addition, the topic of self-assembly of a corner sofa will be covered, from the drawing to the final covering.

So many sofas, beautiful and different...

Having decided to make a sofa with your own hands, it will not be superfluous to take a closer look at ready-made examples of home “sofa” creativity.

Let us note the main features of this type of furniture so as not to confuse it with a regular bed in the future. The main distinguishing feature of the sofa is not the soft bed, but the backrest on which you can lean. The bed does not have this element. Side rails with armrests are another classic element of a sofa design.

In modern models, armrests are often abandoned, leaving only the backrest. In some designs, it can be swiveled and turned into a mattress.

Photo No. 2 Sofa with swivel back

This system is called the “Eurobook”. The principle of its operation, as can be seen in photo No. 2, is very simple: a block with a seat on wheels moves forward, and the back, with a slight movement of the hands, rotates on hinges and turns into an additional sleeping place. Anyone who decides to make a sofa at home can take note of this option.

It’s not for nothing that they attract the attention of home furniture makers. These are ready-made durable modules. From them you can build an original bed with minimal cost and time. A sofa made of pallets, made in a deliberately rough, fashionable loft style, looks great with a dump truck wheel serving as a coffee table.

All you need to assemble such a structure is a screwdriver and a jigsaw. Having secured the base pallets with screws in pairs, the sidewalls are attached to them. They are made from the same pallets, cut at the level of “bosses” - thick wooden inserts. This sofa has no back. It is replaced by two wide pillows leaning against the wall. Two thick foam mattresses add a pleasant “softness” to the entire structure.

When planning to make a simple sofa, try to enlist the help of your spouse. Her sewing machine will save you from having to go to a workshop to sew covers. If your wife does not share your grandiose plans, then buy a construction stapler. With its help, you can carefully and quickly complete the upholstery of the frame.

Some people like wood, while others cannot live without metal, making everything they need from it, including a sofa. If yours is old cast iron bath has not yet been scrapped, then use in an original way turning it into a comfortable bed. There is no better material than enameled cast iron for a garden patio.

Such an outdoor sofa is not afraid of either snow or rain, regularly bringing its owner respect from guests and neighbors.

Modellers and designers make not only models of ancient ships, tanks and aircraft. Furniture items often fall into their sphere of attention (photo No. 6).

Why don’t we make such a sofa by increasing its miniature layout to the required size? The idea of ​​this design is simple and rational: the base is made of profile pipe, to which thick plywood or OSB board is attached.

After practicing assembly techniques on a smaller copy, it will be easier for you to work with a full-size sofa.

If you don’t have an old tire on your household, it’s not easy to make an original round sofa. If rubber “shoes” of the tractor are available, you can cover them with fabric and attach a high back. A stand with legs and soft foam cushions will give the structure an ideal appearance.

How to make a corner sofa yourself?

You cannot begin this work without a detailed assembly diagram. A corner sofa consists of several parts, the manufacture and joining of which require precision. The best fastening material for a beginner is self-tapping screws. The tenon joints of the frame are at the level of an experienced carpenter.

So, to assemble a corner sofa you will need the following materials:

  • wooden block (section 30x50 mm);
  • board (25x80 mm);
  • plywood or chipboard (thickness 12 mm);
  • plywood (thickness 5 mm);
  • foam rubber 10 cm thick;
  • thin foam rubber or batting (for making a lining for the casing);
  • PVA glue for attaching the soft lining;
  • furniture upholstery fabric.

To work you will need the following set of tools:

  • screwdriver;
  • jigsaw and hacksaw with miter box;
  • construction knife for cutting foam rubber;
  • scissors for cutting furniture fabric;
  • stapler;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • sewing machine.

Before making a corner sofa yourself, you need to clearly define its layout diagram and once again look at all the prepared drawings.

The base of each corner sofa block is a frame made of plywood or chipboard, mounted on a timber frame. If the thickness of the slab is large enough (from 16 mm), you can do without a block. In this case, the self-tapping screws are screwed directly into the ends of the slabs, drilling guide holes of small diameter into them to prevent splitting of the material.

To rationally use the internal space, removable covers can be made in blocks No. 1 and No. 2. To support them from the inside along the contour of the frame, you need to secure a block with a cross-section of 2x3 cm, lowering it below the upper cut of the slabs by the thickness of the lid (12 mm). In order for the lid to be easily lifted, two holes are drilled in it for the fingers.

The design of blocks No. 1 and No. 2 is the same, but we will make block No. 3 with a drawer-seat, which increases the usable area of ​​the sofa. This is the simplest option that does not require the installation of transformation mechanisms (retractable or rotary). Their correct installation and adjustment for beginners is a complex process.

Our drawer will have a lid made of chipboard or thick plywood. Assembling it is not difficult, but making comfortable folding legs is a problem. They will interfere when sliding the drawer into the sofa body. Instead, we will increase the height of the drawer face plate. It will play the role of a supporting platform when unfolding the sofa.

For easy sliding, two wheels from office chairs can be attached to the back of the drawer front panel. The wheel body will not rest against the bottom of the sofa if a small cutout is made in it in advance.

The lid on block No. 3 can be made removable to put bed linen there.

The dimensions of the seat cushion must be equal to the dimensions of the platform drawer. Having pulled out the drawer of our corner sofa, we remove the back cushion and place it in place of the mattress.

Next is our step by step instructions contains a description of the backrest assembly. For all corner sofa blocks, their design is the same: vertical posts connect three boards. The two lower ones serve to secure the backrest to the sofa, and the upper one provides rigidity and serves as the basis for attaching the upholstery.

Having assembled the back frame, the front and back need to be sheathed with plywood 5 mm thick. All sharp corners processed with sandpaper to avoid snags and unevenness when installing upholstery fabric. For all facial and side surfaces you need to glue batting or thin foam rubber to make the upholstery softer and more voluminous.

The last stage of production is covering the sofa with fabric. You can buy it in a specialized store, having made a preliminary calculation of the sheathing area and not forgetting about the 5-10% reserve required for cutting and turning on the frame.

To do this, all the front parts of the body and back need to be measured and pieces of material cut out according to the resulting dimensions. They are attached using a stapler to the invisible ends of the panels. To prevent the fabric from wrinkling at the corners, make cuts in it and pull it tightly before shooting the staples.

Cushions for the back and seat of a corner sofa are best made from foam rubber with a thickness of at least 10 cm. Optimal design covers for them - a removable zipper with a lock. When dirty, the covers can be easily removed and washed. If you do not have experience in sewing, then draw a simple sketch of a pillow and order the sewing of covers in the studio.

A sofa is a piece of furniture that is always necessary in the interior. Furniture stores It is not so often that we offer the types of sofas or other products that would suit the interior design. It is possible that the owner himself has skills in making furniture, so he can afford to make his desire to make furniture for the house himself a reality.

The sofa is an integral part of the interior. And, if the store offers high prices for this furniture, you can make it yourself.

It should be noted that to create a sofa you will need various tools. Having prepared them, you can make a sofa according to your size and your own taste using your own efforts. The product will be made according to an individual drawing, which is due to its uniqueness.

Then resourcefulness, acumen, skill and knowledge of carpentry can come to the rescue in order to create a unique masterpiece on your own. At the same time, you can know that the use of materials in the process of creating a sofa will not be associated with large monetary expenses, as when purchasing it, taking into account the colors of the upholstery according to your own taste.

Determining the design of the future product

Before starting work on creating a sofa, it is necessary to design its external image, and then develop the design of the furniture in the room as a whole. At the same time, you can come up with a design for a corner sofa that will fit under the main furniture. It should be borne in mind that it is difficult to make sofas at home high quality. You can make a corner sofa yourself by making a frame mounted on stands or legs of the product.

From time to time, a roller system mechanism is used. Due to the folding seats of the sofa, you can have special access to all its niches located on the sides. The niches will be mounted in the form of small drawers, and then installed on the sofa at your own discretion.

It is necessary to plan the dimensions of the product carefully, because it may not fit in the prepared area of ​​the room. All calculated sizes are chosen based on your own taste, preferences and size of the room area. At this stage, you should prepare a drawing in advance to create a regular or corner sofa.

Next you should visit the store building materials. For beginners performing work related to installing a sofa for the first time, the most convenient solution There will be a design of a folding structure, not a corner one. The frame of the product must consist of a frame that has rectangular shape installed on legs, taking into account all suitable dimensions.

To create the frame, beams are used, the best material for the production of which is pine. Self-tapping screws are used to secure the timber. Fasteners should be made in such a way that cracks do not form. You can give the sofa frame maximum strength by screwing each cube-shaped timber to the corners of the frame.

Self-tapping screws are suitable for fastening. The bottom of the sofa will consist of plywood; the dimensions of the sheet must correspond to the area of ​​the frame. Plywood can be nailed using nails located at the same level. You can make a sofa by performing work in three stages, which includes:

  1. Purchase of materials.
  2. Preparation of tools.
  3. Creating a frame (frame).
  4. Upholstery of the product.

Let's look at each of the stages in more detail.

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Step by step creation of a sofa

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Necessary materials for making the product

You can make a sofa yourself without using special or additional types of material; pine timber and plywood are ideal here. First, the product must be designed in detail on paper. It is necessary to carefully consider any detail, for example, the level of inclination of the back of the product, a certain size of the height of its legs, overall dimensions structures in general, etc.

It is necessary to take into account that the entire load from the product will fall on the legs of the sofa and its back; the base must be strong. The back and seat should be provided with adequate strength, the legs of the product should be firmly fixed to the frame. It is necessary to take into account when creating a sofa that the pine timber is prepared taking into account the appropriate size, which is 60x60 mm, and the thickness of the plywood sheets is taken equal to 12 mm. These types of materials are the most common, as they are associated with an accessible supply at an affordable price.

Among all the fastening materials, we can highlight: self-tapping screws and steel angles. The necessary tools will be a screwdriver and a saw. It’s better to use foam rubber, tapestry or padding polyester. Strengthen the material with covers with a zipper. The frame can be made from beams that differ from harder ones tree species without having any additional disadvantages. All wooden elements must be varnished to preserve the appearance of the wood.

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Where to start assembling the sofa structure

Among the main elements of the sofa are the presence of:

  1. Railing.
  2. Pillows.
  3. Frame.
  4. Nozhek.

Making a sofa can be roughly divided into four stages.

  1. Frame assembly. For frame or wooden frame it is necessary to prepare beams that have no visible imperfections and are smooth. They can be made from those rocks that are more durable. The beams are cut using previously prepared tools. Next they begin to fasten the frame. If there are only a few screws for fastening, then it is best to treat each connection with a non-toxic wood glue that is most suitable for the selected material.
  2. Making seats and backs of sofas. You can make a sofa using foam rubber, which is more economical. Its analogs are also ideal: holofiber or polyurethane foam. The final material has sufficient elasticity, but at the same time flexibility. It can be quickly given the required shape; it is not able to absorb water. If the filler moves along the frame, it must be glued to the frame.
  3. Sofa upholstery. For covering, leather or tapestry can be chosen, which seems to be the more economical option. It all depends on wishes and financial capabilities. To sheathe the product, you will need a construction stapler. The material is pre-cut and its edges are processed. Then you should attach the appropriate fixation to the sheathing on the parts of the wood product, that is, its frame. It is enough to cover the sofa once, and later you will not have to spend all your money on its secondary covering. It’s possible to do all the work without an assistant. Can . Another option would be to create special covers for the sofa. At the same time, it is necessary to provide for the presence of soft seats, which are pillows.
  4. Final processing. Everyone visible wooden element It is better to treat the sofa with stain and varnish, for which you should prepare all the materials at once even before starting to assemble the frame.

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Using timber and plywood to make a frame

You can prepare the entire set of tools yourself; you need to provide the following:

  1. Hacksaws.
  2. Drills.
  3. Fraser.
  4. Screwdriver.
  5. Tape measures and centimeter.
  6. A pencil.
  7. Rulers.
  8. Sandpaper.
  9. Scissors.
  10. Cutter.
  11. Construction stapler.

Not considering steel fastenings, glue is used that allows each of the parts to be firmly and efficiently connected to each other. This will make the structure stronger and safer. Each connection must be glued using a suitable adhesive. He should in an ideal way suitable for wooden product. Otherwise, it will be uncomfortable to rest and sit on the made sofa.

It will be necessary to assemble a sofa from timber by creating three frames with a size equal to 72x1860 mm. You can strengthen the corner parts in the same way, and the installation principle is related to the tenon on the glue. The base of the sofa is made from two frames. The frames need to be connected to each other using four bars 60x60 mm and about 200 mm long.

You will need a glued board, which is laid in the part of the sofa where the mattress will be located. It is imperative to strengthen the hinges to the frame, and the third frame must be covered with a board, like the side walls of the sofa. The back of the product should be secured to the wall with 5-6 hinges, which will guarantee the product the required level, the load-bearing capacity of which is from 150 to 200 kg; the back should rest on both sides of the stand if it is unfolded.

When the manufacture of the sofa seat has already been completed, they begin to create the frame of the back of the product.

This can be accomplished by following the appropriate steps, the same as when creating a product seat. If you need a folding sofa model, it is better to firmly fix the back of the product. This can be done using reliable steel angles of sufficient thickness. Experts do not recommend making the back strictly vertical.