Good afternoon. I am contacting you with this problem. We have a double-circuit boiler in our house with a coaxial system. All water was drained while the heating system was being repaired. At that moment, the wife decided to wash the dishes and turned on the tap hot water. The boiler, naturally, reacted, and as a result, an emergency shutdown of the device occurred. The accident sensor has tripped. When the pipe repairs were completed and the system was filled with water, the boiler could not be started. The emergency light was on, but the heating system did not start. We cannot invite specialists, since the nearest service is 100 km away. Help start the boiler correctly. Boiler brand: Viessmann.
In order to start the heating system after emergency stop gas boiler, you need to fill the radiators and pipes with water. Before doing this, look in the technical data sheet of the boiler to find out what its minimum and maximum operating water pressure in the system is, and fill in the limits of these numbers. You should check the pressure level on the sensor, which is installed on the front panel of the device (may be on the bottom, on the side, depending on the brand).
The red arrow shows a pressure and temperature sensor, divided into two scales. The lower scale is pressure, the upper one is system heating temperature
If everything is in order, press the “power” button on the boiler to start the system.
Unlocking the emergency state of the boiler
- Use the heating temperature control knob on the boiler instrument panel to set the temperature to maximum.
- Then sharply turn off the temperature regulator to zero.
- We repeat the procedure 2-3 times, turning the sensor either to maximum or to minimum.
- We leave the regulator in the maximum temperature position and wait for the boiler to automatically unlock. The system should start automatically.
- We wait until the emergency stop light of the device goes out.
- After such manipulations, set the regulator to the desired temperature.
Unlocking is complete.
Additional recovery steps
Be sure to ventilate the heating system, i.e. Bleed the air from the radiators at all points in the house where you have taps. Don't forget about the heated towel rail (if it has a tap).
If an automatic air vent valve is installed at the top heating point (circled in the photo), then you need to loosen the cap to allow the air to escape
On the boiler, check the water pressure in the system again so that it is at least 1.5 bar at the start of operation. This is the minimum operating pressure in all gas boilers while the water in the pipes is still cold. As the liquid heats up, the pressure will become higher. It is advisable that it does not exceed 2.5 bar. Too much pressure is harmful to the connecting elements of the system (oil seals, cuffs, etc.), which can simply be torn out by the force of water. If the sensor shows higher than the maximum number in your technical data sheet, drain some water from the pipes and check the pressure again.
Instructions
Before starting the boiler, make sure it is installed correctly. The boiler mounting location must comply with the requirements fire safety, it must be located at a distance of at least 20 cm from gas appliances and flammable objects. There must be a distance of at least 30 cm between the boiler and the wall. Do not install boiler near a window to prevent exposure to precipitation. There must be an access point close to the device. electrical network. The boiler should be positioned evenly on the wall, without distortion. Correct any deficiencies noted before connecting the boiler to the utilities.
Connect gas boiler to the water supply, having first removed the plugs from the pipes. Install a special strainer at the inlet, complementing it with a ball valve. Ball valves must be installed on all boiler pipes.
To connect gas equipment to appropriate gas pipes invite gas service employees. Connecting on your own is fraught with trouble. Make sure that a gas valve is installed in front of the boiler to shut off gas access if necessary.
Connect a chimney (coaxial pipe with a diameter of 100 mm) to the boiler and lead the pipe outside through a hole specially made in the wall.
Proceed with the final part of the startup procedure. Disable boiler from the mains and slowly fill the system with water. Make sure boiler prevents water and gas leaks, and then connect boiler to the power grid. Set the thermostat button to the maximum setting. The boiler should automatically ignite using the mode switch. Please note that the very first start-up of a new boiler should still be entrusted to specialists who have a special certificate for performing work of this kind.
Sources:
- Gas boiler installation
- starting a gas boiler
To make life in your home comfortable, you need to connect various systems communications. For example, there is a need to lay system heating. This is especially important in the conditions of the Russian winter with severe frosts and the winds. However, it is not enough to simply design this system, you need to start the heating.
Instructions
Starting the system heating is an extremely important process that consists of certain actions that must be performed in a strict order. This is the only way that all new purchased equipment will give positive results.
To get started, fill out system heating water. To do this, take the feed pump and direct it to the return line. IN warm time year, the water should be cold; in the cold months, when the temperature drops below 1 degree, the liquid must be heated to +20. This will prevent pipes from freezing. Do not forget to close all drain valves and taps and open the vents, which should be tightened immediately after the first water appears. However, after waiting a few minutes, open them again to release the air. After that, leave system heating at rest for several hours.
Proceed to pressure testing the system heating. This process means checking all equipment for strength and tightness. This is the only way to detect leaks. To perform pressure testing, increase the pressure in the system heating using compressed air or a column of water. Maintain this pressure for 10-15 minutes, then set the operating pressure. Monitor all changes using a pressure gauge.
You bought and installed a new one heating device in your house and now you’re racking your brains, how to turn on a gas boiler? If you do not have the opportunity or desire to entrust this process to specialists, we will tell you in detail about all the stages and necessary actions so that this boiler efficiently and stably heats your home. Correct installation, care when connecting the boiler, as well as strict compliance with safety standards for using the device guarantee you a warm and cozy home during the heating season.
Where do we start?
A household gas boiler is a powerful and efficient device designed to heat the coolant and circulate the heated liquid through the heating system of the house. Modern boilers They heat not only batteries, but also water in the tap in large volumes, have electronic control and various safety mechanisms. When purchasing a boiler, you should pay attention to the heating area so that it is slightly larger than your living space.
Naturally, you have already installed the unit itself and made all the necessary connections and piping of the heating system. We checked the chimney and draft, as well as the device itself for proper operation and absence of leaks. This stage of work, as a rule, takes place in the presence of gas industry employees, who carefully record all the results and “give the go-ahead” for the use of this device.
Some models of domestic gas boilers are very demanding to install. It is necessary to strictly comply with the instructions in the instructions - maintain a distance from the wall, do not install the device near windows or at an angle. Now you can start starting the heating.
Before starting the boiler itself, it is necessary to fill heating system– pipes and batteries, coolant, that is, water. To do this, unscrew the valve at the bottom of the boiler. For different models boilers, the “appearance” of this supply valve may be different, but it cannot be confused with anything else. As a last resort, check the instructions for your device.
By opening the valve, we will begin to supply water to the pipes and radiators. Be sure to monitor the pressure level, wait for the mark of 2 - 2.5 atm. This indicator can be measured using the pressure gauge built into the boiler.
If the first start-up of a gas boiler occurs in the cold season, it is better to preheat the premises using alternative heaters and supply “summer” water - about 18-20°.
When the required pressure inside the system is reached, it is necessary to bleed off the air that may remain inside the batteries and pipes. Air locks significantly worsen the heat transfer of your battery, is this the result you are trying to achieve?
To quickly and effectively bleed air, you need to unscrew the Mayevsky taps on each battery. At first, you will hear a whistling or hissing sound - this is normal. If water starts running out of the radiator, it means air lock not here.
Bleed the air from the battery that is the highest in level.
When you have checked all heating devices, look at what the boiler pressure gauge now shows. The pressure will probably drop slightly and you will need to top up the heating system with water.
But in addition to plugs in the pipes, the normal operation of the boiler can be prevented by the air inside the circulation pump. This is easy to fix. Some models are equipped automatic system air release, but, as a rule, it is not effective enough, so for the first time it is better to get rid of the airing manually.
To do this, remove the front cover from the boiler body, then look for the pump itself - a cylindrical part with a plug for a flat-head screwdriver. Sometimes, the pump is located behind the dashboard, which is easily moved away or removed from the closures. To release air from the pump, turn on the boiler and start heating the water. The boiler will start up. The pump will also begin to engage in the working process - this will be confirmed by strange gurgling sounds inside the unit - do not be alarmed, this is air. Take a flat screwdriver and slowly unscrew the plug. When water flows, screw the plug back. This procedure should be carried out several times. When you stop hearing the gurgling of water inside the device and your gas boiler starts working, it means that you have managed to get rid of the air inside the pump completely. At this stage, you should again check the pressure gauge readings with the instructions for the device. In principle, you can stop there - now your boiler will heat water inside the radiators, and if it is a double-circuit unit, then in the water supply.
After starting the boiler, the distant batteries are turned on to maximum, and the near ones are screwed on. For this purpose, special regulator valves are used, which are installed on the radiator inlet pipe. After debugging the heating system, you can set a comfortable temperature for the batteries.
But it would not be amiss to carry out pressure testing and flushing of the heating system. After these procedures, you will be 100% sure that the inside of the radiators is clean and your heating system has no leaks.
Crimping
For this procedure you will need a pressure pump. You don’t have to buy it - most likely, you won’t need it anymore. You can borrow such an instrument from friends or rent it. Pressure testing can be carried out with a powerful air stream or a water jet with increased pressure and take a 10-minute pause. You do this to detect leaks if they exist. If after the operation your working pressure is on the boiler did not decrease - the system is absolutely reliable and sealed. If the pressure is below operating pressure, you should look for a leak.
Flushing the system
This procedure will help clean your pipes and radiators from contaminants. You should open all the taps on the radiators, place some capacious containers under them and supply water under a pressure of 4 bar. This flow of water will cleanse the heating system of suspended matter, sediment and rust particles. After the initial flush, it is better to clean the system again. If any of the filters is clogged, close the supply valve installed at the inlet and clean the filter membrane from dirt.
Thus, we have completed all the procedures preceding the first start-up of the gas boiler. Now you can start the first time.
After reading our article, you learned how to turn on a gas boiler, clean the system and check the reliability of the connections of pipes and radiators. Now your heating device will delight you with warmth and comfortable conditions. If you follow all the recommendations and instructions for the boiler and carry out the first start-up correctly, the boiler will not let you down either in severe frosts or in the damp off-season.
Yes yes, that's exactly what you thought...
A wonderful series of computer (and later not only...) books,
Simple and understandable, which was very useful to many.
Your new home honestly took care of you all winter.
Saved from bad weather, protected from precipitation, wind, cold...
But now the sun has warmed up, and the winter snowdrifts have long since disappeared.
May. It's time to turn off the heating in the house.
How?
There is so much stuff in the boiler room that you can open, close, switch, turn off... It’s almost like an airline pilot :-)
What to do? Should I rather look for the phone numbers of “those guys” who installed the boiler and call them for help?
Well, no. This is not our choice. If part of your life is your own home, and if your home is not part of a cottage community, you will have to be an electrician and a plumber yourself and many many others... Well, if you are not a “pro,” then at least be a “teapot”, but such that you yourself could manage his own home.
So let's get back to our problem.
Summer is knocking on the door. It's hot outside. It is necessary to turn off the heating in a private house. How?
First of all, we determine what kind of boiler we have in our house.
This can be done, for example, by simply looking at the documents that exist for this boiler. If the boiler is double-circuit, then everything will be quite simple - you just need to switch it to the “summer” position. What exactly needs to be pressed and turned for this - read the instructions for your boiler - everything is written there simply and clearly.
(For reference. A double-circuit boiler works something like this - the coolant circulates in a circle through the pipes and radiators and “looks” at the temperature of the coolant - if it becomes less than what the owner (or the temperature sensor) set - it ignites the gas and heats it. If the owner of a double-circuit boiler turned on the hot water - the boiler “stops” caring about the temperature of the coolant in your heating system and devotes all its efforts to only one task - heating cold water in order to make it hot and give it to the owner.
Well, that is, if we take it to the point of absurdity - if it’s frosty outside, and the owner of a double-circuit boiler is actively draining hot water from the tap hour after hour - he risks freezing the whole family. Priority of hot water supply - this is the clever name for this behavior of a double-circuit boiler.)
It’s a completely different matter for those owners who have a single-circuit boiler.
I'll tell you terrible secret- a single-circuit boiler has only one circuit :-)
There is simply no separate circuit inside a single-circuit boiler that would be occupied only with heating and which could simply be turned off for the summer. But how is it possible that a single-circuit boiler, having inside itself a single coolant circulation circuit, still manages (and is much more effective than a double-circuit boiler, with its misanthropic “hot water supply priority”) to drive hot coolant both through the radiator system and through the hot water supply system ?
It's simple. Yes, inside a single-circuit boiler there is one single circuit, but outside the boiler there is a system of external pipes, valves, circulation pumps, etc.
from this one thing you can create as many different contours as you like.
Well, that's just it. Imagine. Here the coolant, heated by the flame of the boiler, runs through the pipes - along the only circle that a single-circuit boiler has. The hot one ran up the pipes, ran around all the heating radiators, gave all its heat to the house, the cold one ran back into its single-circuit boiler, warmed up, ran up again...
He's bored. He runs and runs in the same circle...
How to “pinch off” a piece of this flow circulating through the heating system, in order to not only heat the house but also heat the water with this “pinch off flow”?
Yes, it’s clear how. Very simple. We cut the tee into the heating circuit.
That's it, now the coolant, having reached the tee, will split into two directions - one flow, as before, will run through the heating radiators - giving off its heat to the house, and the second flow will run into the hot water supply system.
Ugh. Well, we finally got to the hot water supply system of a single-circuit boiler.
But in fact, there is almost nothing to tell about her...
A hefty barrel into which it flows through pipes cold water, and inside this barrel there is a “spiral-coil” pipe through which the part of the hot coolant flow that we “pinched off” runs. That's all. The hot coolant, running again and again inside a barrel of water, each time gives up and gives up its heat to this water - trying to heat the water to the temperature of the coolant.
This “magic barrel” in the hot water supply system is called a boiler indirect heating(or, more simply, “water-water boiler”).
What about the heating system, hot water supply system...
A boiler, pipes, radiators, and now this water-to-water boiler. The whole system, or what? Well almost...
Here, at home with you, how can I say this..., well, “they are not small.”
It is usually difficult for the coolant to rush around these endless and, as a rule, long circles - until you run from the boiler room to the farthest room... and you still have to run back to the boiler to “warm up”... and you don’t have the strength...
Here. To help the coolant move, electric circulation pumps are installed into the pipes. I turned on such a pump and it “like a taxi” moves the coolant through the pipe.
Such a circulation pump is located in the same heating circuit (where, until the tee was cut in, the coolant was running alone) and such a circulation pump is located in the pipe of that “pinched off” flow that runs in the boiler.
In addition, in these heating and hot water supply systems there are “safety groups”, expansion tanks, many many (often depends on the flight of fancy of those guys who installed these systems in the house :-) taps, and something else that is not mentioned this topic...
Yes, yes. So far everything is elementary simple.
A single-circuit boiler works and heats the house and heats the water and, most importantly, now we already know how it does it.
Having thought a little, we understand that there is no way to turn off the boiler itself for the summer - it is necessary to heat the coolant in the “pinched off” flow, otherwise the water in the boiler cannot be heated.
This means that in order to turn off only the circulation of coolant through the pipes and radiators of the heating system for the summer, you just need to turn off their valve - so look for and turn off such a valve on the main thick pipe going up from the boiler - look somewhere above the “pinch off into the boiler” "tee), while the valve that you will find standing immediately after the "pinch off tee, but not on the main thick pipe going up, but on its side branch (this valve determines how much or little "pinch off" goes into the boiler) - on the contrary, We need to open it completely for the summer.
All. Now the circulation through your heating circuit is turned off and the house is no longer heated. The circulation along the hot water supply circuit is completely open, which means there is hot water in the house in the summer.
Once you have determined where and what kind of valve you have installed and once you have switched from winter to summer, don’t be lazy, write down the details in your own " house book" - believe me, you will use it more than once..
There are some important nuances operation of a single-circuit boiler on a “short”, as a rule, hot water supply circuit, but I’ll talk about this in my next post.
As a rule, we entrust the first start-up of a gas boiler and the work of setting up and adjusting it to specialists from service centers. Why? Yes, because without their mark in the equipment passport, the manufacturer’s warranty is simply not valid, and in the event of an early breakdown, we will simply be denied warranty repairs.
Whether this is actually the case is, of course, debatable. Specialists from the service center will find a million reasons to refuse you free equipment repair. And even if you get such generosity from them, your repair will last more than one week - either there are no spare parts, or the queue has not yet arrived, or it is wrong. This is a verified fact and it is very difficult to refute it. If you want a quick “warranty repair”, pay both for spare parts and for the work of the technician.
By the way, in order to put the boiler under warranty service, you also need to pay money. So what is this guarantee? Pay for the warranty, then pay for parts and repairs. So where is the free warranty service? That is why, since you already have to pay for everything, I suggest you independently start up the gas boiler for the first time and set up the heating system. Moreover, it is not difficult.
Filling the heating system with water
We look under the bottom of the boiler - where all the pipelines are connected, and look for something like a small valve there. For each model of gas boiler, it can have a different shape: one manufacturer makes it in the form of a valve that is familiar to us, another - in the form of a rotating plastic pin. In general, their form does not change the essence - as a last resort, open the instructions and look at its location.
We open this tap, not completely (so that air does not hang anywhere in the pipes, it is better to fill the system slowly) and direct our gaze to the pressure indicator - the pressure gauge. As a rule, most boilers of this type have an operating pressure from 1 to 3 Atm - read the instructions for more details. We wait until the pressure gauge needle reaches 2.5 Atm and close the valve.
Now the boiler will have to be left alone for a while - from each installed battery or convector, the air must be removed.
For these purposes, each heating device must be equipped with a Mayevsky tap. We open it and wait for the air to drain and water to run out. The water started flowing and Mayevsky’s tap was turned off. This procedure must be done with each battery. Did you do it?
Now we return to the boiler and look at the pressure gauge again - the pressure in the system should drop. We adjust it, add water if necessary - the optimal pressure at which the boiler operates normally is 1.5-2 Atm. If you pump more, then during operation at a high coolant temperature the excess pressure will be released. This is due to the fact that when a liquid is heated, its pressure increases.
First start of a gas boiler
Having completed all these simple preparations, you can begin to directly start the boiler. Open the gas valve and plug in the boiler. All sorts of symbols and numbers appear on the screen, but for a full launch you still need to perform some actions.
First, press the power button and set the temperature control knobs to the operating position. After these steps, the boiler will begin to make futile attempts to turn on - this is normal and there is no need to be alarmed. The most important thing is that the circulation pump is turned on, inside of which for some reason there is always air that prevents the boiler from fully turning on. It is its removal that needs to be done as quickly as possible.
We remove the front cover of the boiler - in almost all cases it is secured with two or four screws. We fold back the dashboard, behind which the circulation pump is hidden.
In the center of the pump there is a wide screw with a slot for a screwdriver. This is the one you need to unscrew a little, and when water runs out from under it without air bubbles, tighten it again. Only now will full circulation of the liquid in the heating system begin, and the boiler will start working.
At first it will gurgle and make some strange sounds, but this is only for the better. Just know that all these sounds indicate that the remaining air in the system is being forced into the expansion tank, where the automatic air valve releases it to the outside. Five minutes will pass and the system will return to normal - the pressure will stabilize, and the gurgling sounds will subside. And after another five minutes you will already be enjoying warmer batteries and an unlimited amount of hot water in the tap.
That, in principle, is all you need to know in order to start up a gas boiler for the first time. The boiler is working, the batteries are getting warmer, and I think you can figure out how to regulate the temperature of the batteries and hot water in the tap yourself - read the instructions, everything is clearly described there regarding the control of your specific boiler model.
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