Arrangement of the floor in the steam room. The floor in the bathhouse - different options for arranging a high-quality base. Pouring the finishing screed

The technology for making floors in a bathhouse is very different from the design in residential premises. This is largely due to high temperature and humidity, which, even with periodic exposure, affect finishing and facing materials. Following step by step guide, you can make the floor in any room of the bathhouse with your own hands.

Installation of the floor in the washing department of a Russian bath

The washroom is a room for receiving water procedures located in front of the steam room. Usually, in order to save space and for convenience, the washing room is combined with a shower room. It can also accommodate a font, barrel or small bathtub. In a Russian bath, the washing room is combined with a steam room.

The temperature in the wash room may vary. When cold air enters from the dressing room, it drops, sometimes below 30°C, and when hot steam penetrates from the steam room, it rises to 50–60°C.

This directly affects the method and technology of floor construction. It should be well ventilated and dry quickly. Moisture and water retention should not be allowed, but it is necessary that the underground space is well ventilated without creating strong drafts.

To arrange a steam room, it is best to use one of two types of flooring:

The leaking one is a wooden plank, located on a supporting joist structure, which, in turn, is fixed on supporting pillars, lower crown or concrete base. To ensure free flow of water, the floorboards are laid in a collapsible manner with a small gap of up to 5–6 cm.
A non-leaking floor is a monolithic sealed covering made of wood or concrete with a slight slope. At the lowest point on the plane, a hole is mounted, connected to a sewer system that drains dirty water into drain hole.

Both types have their advantages and disadvantages. A leaky floor can be installed fairly quickly, but if insulated insufficiently, it can cause the temperature in the washing room to be too low. This is especially noticeable when the bathhouse is small or poorly insulated.

A non-leaking floor has a more complex structure, but allows you to lay a full thermal insulation layer, which significantly increases comfort and reduces heat loss. But when carrying out repairs, you will have to completely dismantle the front layer, while for a leaking one you will need to remove only part of the floorboards.

What material can be used

To make a floor in a washing room, they are used wooden boards, concrete, insulating materials, plastic or metal pipes, galvanized fasteners, etc. The total amount of materials required directly depends on the chosen floor design and its design.

In the bathhouse, you can make a leaking poured monolithic concrete floor with tile or plank cladding. This design is suitable only if the building was constructed on a strip foundation. If piles were used, it is recommended to lay galvanized steel with sheathing.

To make a monolithic floor in a washing room you will need:

fine-grained sand and expanded clay;
bitumen mastic;
roofing felt and polyethylene film;
extruded polystyrene foam;
waterproofing material with a reflective layer (when using heated floors);
steel mesh for reinforcement;
metal profile;
cement-sand mixture;
porcelain tiles or planed wooden boards;
siphon and plastic pipe.

The described design may include the installation of a heated floor system, which allows maintaining a constant temperature in the washing room. This will also affect the performance of the coating - moisture will evaporate faster without penetrating into the seams between the tiles or boards.

Video: what material to lay on the floor in the bathhouse

Calculation of the amount of materials for the washing room

The size of the washing room depends on the total area of the bath, so in each specific case it will be necessary to calculate the materials according to individual parameters. In order to understand how to do this, the calculation of material for a 3x4 m room is given as an example. The floor is usually located at a height of 50 cm from the ground level.

To install the floor you will need:

Fine sand. It will be used as backfill on the ground. The layer thickness is 10–15 cm. The total volume of sand is: V=(3×4)x0.15
=1.8 m3.
Expanded clay is used for filling before thermal insulation material. Layer thickness 25–40 cm. Total volume of material: V=(3×4)x0.4=4.8 m3.
Extruded polystyrene foam is a heat-insulating material laid on top of an expanded clay cushion. Layer thickness 50–100 mm. When purchasing expanded polystyrene from Penoplex, for thermal insulation of a floor with an area of 12 m2, you will need 3 packs of insulation.
Cement-sand mixture. It can be purchased ready-made or prepared with your own hands. The first option is recommended. The thickness of the poured layer is 7–12 cm. The mixture consumption for a layer thickness of 1 cm is indicated on the bag with the dry mixture. For example, when purchasing Polygran sand concrete, the consumption is 18 kg/m2. To fill a floor 1 cm thick you will need: V=(3×4)x18=216 kg. For a 7 cm layer: V=216×7=1512 kg, or 84 bags.
Reinforcing mesh is used to strengthen the cement-sand layer. Optimal size cells - 50×50 mm. The total coverage area is 12 m2.
Roofing felt is used to isolate expanded clay fill from the sand cushion and soil. Total quantity - 12 m2. It is better to purchase roofing felt made according to GOST with a density of 350±25g/m2.
Polyethylene film is used to insulate the gravel bed. Total quantity - 12 m2. The optimal density is 150 microns.
A metal profile will be needed to make beacons for leveling the screed. If total area washing area is 12 m2, then approximately 25 m of profile will be required.
Siphon and drain pipe. Usually, it is brought to the center or the far wall in the washing room. Taking this into account, 4–5 m will be required polypropylene pipe diameter 25–32 mm. To install the turn, you need an elbow made of similar material.

The flooring is selected individually, taking into account the owner’s requirements. If you plan to lay tiles, they must have anti-slip properties. For example, porcelain tiles measuring 30x30 cm are suitable for a washing room. One package is designed to cover 1.30–1.5 m2 of floor. Therefore, for a room with an area of 12 m2, 8–10 packages will be required.

If you plan to lay a plank floor, then it is better to use tongue and groove floorboards floorboard from larch with a thickness of 20 mm. It is advisable that the material has already been dried to natural moisture.

Necessary tools for installation of the structure

To arrange and manufacture the floor you will need:

shovel;
concrete mixer;
water container;
container for concrete mixture;
metal rule;
bubble level;
construction knife;
paint brush.

In addition to the basic tools, to lay porcelain tiles you will need:

manual rail tile cutter;
spatula;
mallet;
container for tile adhesive.

When laying tongue and groove boards, use:

jigsaw;
hammer;
galvanized screws or nails.

How to properly make a concrete heated floor with tiled tiles in a sauna

Before installing the floor, you need to clean the soil inside the foundation from construction debris, branches, leaves, etc. If inner part Since the load-bearing blocks are very damp, you should wait until they are partially dry.

The sequence of actions when installing a monolithic floor in a washing room is as follows:

The soil surface must be carefully leveled, compacted, and large stones removed, if any. The inner surface of the strip foundation is processed bitumen mastic in 1–2 layers.
At this stage, you need to consider introducing the drain pipe through the strip foundation. For example, in concrete block Using a hammer drill, a hole is made into which a piece of steel pipe is mounted. A polypropylene pipe will be introduced through this jumper under the floor structure.
The drain must be carefully installed in the place where the corresponding hole will be located. You need to put a plastic plug on the end of the pipe to prevent sand, expanded clay or concrete mixture from getting inside.
It is necessary to pour fine-grained sand onto the surface of the soil and compact it thoroughly. The layer thickness is 10–15 cm. If the sand is too dry, then after leveling the surface is slightly moistened. This will help compact the pillow more quickly and efficiently.
Now you need to lay roofing felt on the inner surface of the foundation with an overlap of 18–20 cm. When laying rows, it is recommended to leave an overlap of 13–15 cm. For a more rigid fixation, the edge of the sheet is coated with bitumen mastic. If necessary, roofing material is attached to the surface of the foundation.
Next, you need to lay out a layer of expanded clay up to 40 cm thick. After filling and leveling this material, there should be 6–8 cm left to the upper edge of the foundation.
It is recommended to cover the expanded clay pillow with a polyethylene film 150–200 microns thick. The joints are covered with paper adhesive tape. After this, thermal insulation material up to 10 cm thick is laid on the polyethylene.
Now you can install beacons to distribute the concrete mixture over the surface. The pitch between the guides is 60–100 cm. A cement-sand mixture is used to install the beacons. When making guides, a reinforcing mesh is laid on cement so that it is located between the insulation and the beacons.
When installing beacons, it is necessary to ensure that there is a slight slope towards the drain hole. To do this, each guide is checked for level.
At the bottom of the wall around the perimeter of the sink you need to glue damper tape. The processing height is 10–15 cm. After the concrete has dried, the excess tape sticking out can be cut off.
Now you need to fill the screed. It is recommended to prepare the mixture for this in a concrete mixer.

Full strength concrete screed gains on 25–28 days. After 3–5 days, you can carefully dismantle the guides and fill the resulting voids. During the drying process, especially in the first week, the screed should be moistened with water 2-3 times a day. The flooring can be laid no earlier than after 25 days.

Video: do-it-yourself sauna drain (step-by-step instructions)

How to treat a spilled wooden floor

The composition is applied with a paint brush to a cleaned and dry surface that has been previously sanded. Disinfection is also recommended.

The interior of the washing room can be dried (use a special substance based on vegetable oils, forming a film coating). This material perfectly protects wood from negative influence high temperature and moisture.

The room where the sink is located can simply be painted, but it is recommended to use only special water-repellent compounds.

If the bathhouse is used frequently, it is necessary to periodically impregnate the wooden surfaces (once every six months), since this coating tends to wash out. The average cost of semi-matte varnish for baths and saunas varies from 550 to 800 rubles per 1 liter.

Installing a floor in a steam room with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

The steam room is the central room in the bathhouse. The air temperature in it can reach 70°C with a humidity of 80%. In a Finnish sauna, the air is 10–20°C hotter, but the humidity is noticeably lower.

The requirements for the floor structure in the steam room and washroom are almost the same. Water and condensed moisture must be freely removed from the surface, while heat must be retained and the lining must have anti-slip properties.

According to the type of arrangement, the floor in the steam room is also divided into two types: leaking and non-leaking.

The best option for baths on pile foundation there will be a construction of an insulated leaking floor with plank or grating flooring. The most common layout of such a floor will consist of:

Floor beam.
Skull block.
Plank flooring subfloor.
Pit for forming a drain hole;
Drainage polypropylene pipe.
Water drain.
Expanded clay insulating pillow.
Reinforced concrete screed.
Wooden lattice flooring.
Waterproofing with an overlap onto load-bearing walls.

When installing the floor, you can use expanded clay backfill and concrete screed. This is a labor-intensive process that requires certain skills in working with cement mixture.

Expanded clay can be replaced with regular ones mineral insulation, and instead of the screed put a sheet of galvanized steel.

Selection and calculation of material

The size of the steam room directly affects the amount of material required. Therefore, as an example, a calculation is given for arranging a floor in a 3x3 m room.

To make a leaking floor you will need:

A polypropylene pipe, an elbow for drainage and a drain are purchased taking into account the installation location of the drain hole. To organize a drain in the middle of the room, you will need to lay a pipe, put on a swivel elbow at an angle of 90°C, and make an extension to drain the drain flush with the floor surface.

Floor making tool

You will need the following tool:

jigsaw or wood saw;
construction knife;
metal scissors;
screwdriver;
electric plane;
hammer;
square;
chisel.

How to lay the floor in a frame bath on a pile foundation

Before installing the floor, you will need to carefully inspect the lower crown and supporting beams. If there is any damage or signs of rotting, then this element requires partial or complete replacement.

The technology for making a pouring floor in a steam room consists of the following:

Rough bars are attached to the lower part of the supporting beams, embedded in the crown. To fix the elements, galvanized nails 60–70 mm long are used. The fastening step is 50 cm.
A rough flooring made from edged boards is laid on the support bars. To do this, it is sawn off to a size corresponding to the width of the opening between the beams. No fasteners are used during installation. A hole is cut in the rough flooring for the entry of the drain pipe.
After laying the flooring, the floor surface is covered with roofing felt with an overlap of 15–20 cm on the wall and an overlap of 10 cm with each other. The joining seam is coated with bitumen mastic.
The space between the logs is filled with thermal insulation material. Most often, basalt wool is used in rolls, but you can also make an expanded clay pillow.
The guides are laid from timber or thick boards. To do this, the material is laid in such a way that a slope is formed, for which you can use pads under the beam at the base.
The guides are attached directly to the support beams using galvanized nails or self-tapping screws 50–80 mm long. After this, the space between them is filled with basalt wool.
A galvanized sheet is laid on top of the guides with an overlap of 15–20 cm on the wall. For fastening, only special screws with a flat cap. The mounting step along the wall is 15–20 cm, along the guides – 20–30 cm. After installation, a small hole is carefully made in the center of the sheet to drain the water.
The support beams are being fastened under the plank poured floor. To do this, a beam with a cross-section of 70×70 mm is attached to the wall using an “L”-shaped galvanized corner with a pitch of 70–100 cm. Floorboards made of polished boards are laid on top of the beams (it is better to use larch). The distance between them should be 3–5 mm.

Galvanized sheet is not used often, but it is quite good decision, allowing you to unload load-bearing structure floor. If the bathhouse is built on a strip foundation or is located in the basement of a house, then it is better to give preference to a grate with further pouring of a concrete screed.

Video: how to make a plank floor with a slope in a larch steam room

How to prevent rotting of joists and floorboards

To treat the floor in the steam room, a heat-resistant (withstands up to 120°C) water-based varnish is used. This is an elastic coating that protects wood from penetration of moisture, vapor and dirt.

The composition is applied to the prepared floor covering using a paint brush in 2 layers. Application is carried out in a ventilated area at a temperature of 5–30°C. When installing a leaking floor, treatment should begin after laying the load-bearing joists. Only after the composition has dried (2-3 hours should pass) can you proceed to installation flooring and its impregnation.

This composition is not suitable for treating furniture in a steam room. Benches, stools, and chairs cannot be covered with it.

The average consumption of the mixture is 18 m 2 /l.

Installing a floor in a bathhouse is a technologically complex and labor-intensive process, largely dependent on the individual characteristics of the structure, its dimensions and the type of supporting base. Before performing this work, it is recommended to draw up a diagram where you need to identify its main elements and components. This will allow you to more accurately think through the flooring technology specifically for the parameters of your bathhouse.

Bath floors have several significant functions that justify their differences from “residential” standards. In addition to guaranteeing safe movement in conditions of constant moisture, they play the role of a component of the sewer system. A properly constructed floor in a bathhouse will ensure proper drainage of water and will not rot or wear out ahead of time. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the specifics of different technologies for constructing bath floors and choose the most acceptable scheme. For the floor of a fundamental bath structure, we are developing separate project with mathematically accurate calculations. But for the majority of compatriots who have bought a ready-made log house for a bathhouse and are engaged in arranging the bathhouse personally, it is enough to receive general concepts about the difference in construction principles. Any of the proposed schemes can be independently modernized by a home craftsman to suit the needs and requirements of his own construction.

Guidelines for choosing a future design

The owner of a country bathhouse must initially decide on the type of drainage of water constantly pouring onto the floor and the material for constructing the floor. Mainly in buildings recognized as a mandatory component suburban areas, the floor is poured with concrete or boards are laid on the joists.

Concrete base will require more labor effort, finances and time, but will serve without complaints for more than half a century.
The easiest and cheapest way to build a bathhouse floor with your own hands is from lumber, but after 7-8 years it wooden elements will need to be replaced.

Wood structures, based on the type of drainage and the associated complexity of the structure, are divided into leaking and “non-leaking” subcategories.

Pros and cons of leaking floors

A leaky floor is the simplest and extremely cheap. It is a boardwalk, between the elements of which gaps are left for direct discharge of wastewater into the ground. No additional sewer "delights" except for the one located underground drainage pit It doesn't have any insulation either. Therefore, a leaky floor is suitable for bathhouses in the southern regions and for temporary summer cottage use.

Building such a floor for a bathhouse with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. It will not be difficult to replace damaged elements and complete repairs. The boards are not nailed to the joists at all; they can and should be removed and taken outside for ventilation and drying. If desired, instead of a drainage pit, you can install a pan, the drainage from which will be discharged into a sewerage facility.

Specifics of leak-proof design

A non-leaking system is much more complex. It is constructed from two rows of boards. The top flooring, going on top of the logs, is made of tongue-and-groove pine or larch boards without the slightest gaps. A subfloor is installed below. A non-leaking floor is classified as “dry” and can be equipped with insulation.

The floorboards of the finishing flooring are placed with a slope towards the place where wastewater is collected and subsequently discharged into a sewer ditch or septic tank. A hole is made at the lowest point of the plank surface, to which a siphon is connected to drain the waste. The hole can be replaced with a full-length tray. The tray is installed with a slope towards the collection point of contaminated water.

What should the concrete floor pie be like?

Concrete floors in bathhouses are poured in three technological stages. The exaggerated “sandwich” of the design consists of six components, these are:

compacted and strengthened soil base prepared for pouring;
first layer of concrete 5 cm;
insulation, most often expanded clay or felt;
reinforcing concrete layer with chain-link mesh;
leveling layer;
coating.

Tamping the soil and the reinforcing gravel-crushed stone mixture of 15 cm laid on top of it, as well as pouring each of the “sandwich” layers, is carried out with a slope towards the drainage pit. As a result, the design should turn out normal . The slope is standard, like wooden structures, 10º.

We decided on a scheme according to which the installation of floors in the bathhouse would be carried out. Do not forget that if the floor has to support the weight of the capital and not the portable sauna stove, you need to take care of creating a foundation for it in advance.

Features of the construction of wood floors

The main structural element of wooden floors for a bathhouse are logs resting on the embedded beam of a column-type foundation or on the edge of a strip foundation.

All points of contact between the logs and the foundation elements must be insulated with two or three layers of roofing material coated with heated bitumen or dissolved in the solarium. Instead of this budget option You can use eurobitumen or other effective waterproofing material.

Boards are laid on the joists. In the case of leaking floors, the boards are laid with equal empty spaces between them of 3-4 mm; a technological two-centimeter gap should remain along the perimeter between the flooring and the walls of the bathhouse. Owners of small buildings who want to know “how to make a floor in a bathhouse” can lay logs on the frame beam without erecting additional devices, if the log between the support points is less than 3 meters.

The direction of the joists during the construction of a leaking floor determines the shortest distance between the walls. When constructing a non-leakage structure, the direction of installation of the joists should be perpendicular to the direction of drainage.

Construction of support chair-pillars

The construction of floors in large bath buildings will require the preliminary installation of support posts-chairs with a cross-section of 25 cm. Craftsmen planning to lay boards 19 mm thick will need to build support posts every 70 cm. For boards marked 22 - after 80 cm, for boards with size 29 - every 90 cm.

Under the pillars, small foundations of 20 cm in thickness are made or sandy soil is compacted. A foundation poured into formwork made from low-grade boards is more reliable. Craftsmen studying the construction of a floor in a bathhouse should know that the edge of the base for the supports should “protrude” at least 5 cm on each side of the column.

The supports above the foundation can be made of brick, made of logs, or cast monolithic from cement. You can cheaply and quickly make a support column from an asbestos pipe with a suitable diameter. A section of pipe is buried in the ground, the soil around it is compacted, then it is poured into the finished formwork cement mortar.

Before laying the logs, the support pillars must be leveled. The level of their upper plane should coincide with the level of the upper plane of the elements on which the edges of the logs will rest.

Arrangement of the underground bathhouse

The owner constructing a leaking wooden floor needs to find out what filtration properties characterize the soil on his site. If there is an excellent natural filter under the bathhouse - sand, to arrange the underground you will only need to fill in a 25-centimeter layer of gravel. It will serve as a purifier for wastewater passing through it before transiting into the ground. There should be a distance of min 10 cm between the logs and the upper plane of the backfill.

If there is soil under the bathhouse with low filtration properties (loam, clay, sandy loam), you will have to work hard. You will need to make a tray for transporting wastewater into a pit, from which dirty water will be taken outside the building. For this purpose, a clay castle is installed in the underground of the leaking structure with a slope towards the drainage pit. Clay can be replaced with concrete, but it is too expensive.

An underground floor that does not leak can be filled with expanded clay insulation. Between the expanded clay and the logs there should be a 15-centimeter ventilation gap. In the washing compartment, a pit is made near the wall. The walls and bottom of this water intake are compacted and coated with clay. From the pit, the wastewater collected in it must be discharged outside, for which a pipe with a cross-section of at least 15 cm in size is laid.

Installation of the log system

When constructing leaky floors in a wooden bathhouse, the logs are laid horizontally on prepared areas protected by waterproofing. For floors that do not leak, it is necessary to form a slope, for the purpose of which the cutting in the joist on the side directed to the place of waste collection is increased by 2-3mm. The result is the required slope of 10º.

The level of the foundation under the sauna stove is brought to the level of the future floor after installing the logs before laying the flooring.

The boards of the leaking floor are laid on the installed joists without nailing them. Floorboards of a non-leaking design are nailed with two nails at an angle of 45º, but first a subfloor is laid from low-grade boards and equipped with insulation. The groove of the tongue-and-groove flooring board is directed inside the bathhouse.

Initially, it is better not to nail the floorboards of a non-leaking floor to the joists, but only to “bait” them. After finishing all the work on finishing the bathhouse, you need to dry it, and then adjust and finally nail the boards.

Along the perimeter, the bath floor is finished with a plinth. It must be installed so that moisture flowing from the walls does not get under the slats. That is, the wall cladding should “lie” on the baseboard and rest tightly against it without gaps.

The nuances of installing concrete floors

According to tradition, before pouring, you need to make a pit and equip it with a pipe communicating with the drain. Then the concrete floor in the bathhouse is arranged according to the above scheme, in the description of which some specific features of the construction of floors in a concrete bathhouse were not mentioned:

If sewer system monolithic floor discharges wastewater into the ground under the bathhouse, it is necessary to make vents from asbestos pipes in the base of the bathhouse. These holes are necessary to remove the negative odor that will inevitably appear over time.
If wastewater will be discharged through a pipe to a sewerage facility, the receiving edge of the pipe must be equipped with a shutter. An ingenious folk shutter is a rubber ball that floats up and falls onto a pipe; factory-made devices are also suitable.

In the brief description of the construction of the monolithic floor, waterproofing was not mentioned. You need to protect it from moisture with an insulating layer on all sides. Bitumen, polyethylene film, roofing felt, etc. can be used as an insulator.

Concrete floors belong to the category of “cold” structures. To prevent the feet of bathing lovers from freezing, portable wooden gratings are knocked together. They are taken outside to dry and brought in before the next visit.

The described common schemes generally introduce how to make floors in a bathhouse. This is not a strict guide, but just a principle of arrangement - general recommendations, which the owner of the building must modify and improve in relation to his property. Even if there is no desire to build a floor yourself, each owner needs to know the design differences and specifics so that the bathhouse brings only spiritual pleasure and does not “strain” with endless problems.

The peculiarities of the processes taking place in the bathhouse require the installation of a drainage system in the floor. For this purpose, two options are used constructive solution wooden floor in this building: leaking and not leaking. The first option is suitable for seasonal baths located in areas with a warm climate. To properly make such a floor with your own hands, you need to take into account the basic rules of construction, provide for drainage and drainage, and also select the right materials.

Features of pouring floor

A leaky wooden floor in a bathhouse is one of the simplest and most inexpensive designs. The boardwalk is made from grade 1 or 2 lumber. It fits along the joists. In this case, the flooring is arranged in such a way that there are large gaps (at least 0.5 cm) between the boards for water drainage. Through these cracks, water flows freely onto the foundation under the structure.

If the soil allows, then a sewer system will not be needed. This is usually possible on loose sandy soils that absorb water well. On dense or clayey foundations, you will need to build a simple water drainage system.

The construction of wooden poured floors on logs is best done in a bathhouse on stilts. This will allow for good ventilation of the water drainage area. Although, if you install vents in the base of a strip foundation, then the logs can be laid on the base frame, and the vents will ensure effective ventilation of the underground.

Advantages of pouring floors:

low cost of materials used;
simple installation that you can do yourself;
the floor is easy to repair;
It is pleasant to walk on the wooden flooring barefoot.

The disadvantages include the fragility of wooden flooring. Even with high-quality waterproofing and proper ventilation the flooring will begin to rot, and after 6-7 years it will have to be replaced. However, this is not difficult to do, so this disadvantage can be ignored. Another disadvantage is that such a floor is cold, that is, it can only be installed in southern regions with a warm climate.

Arrangement of the underground

If you decide to make a leaky floor, then regardless of the foundation design (on stilts, strip or slab), you need to take care of the underground in case of construction on soils with sandy loam, clay or loam. Such foundations do not absorb water, so it is necessary to dig a hole outside the foundation. Pipes need to be laid into it to drain water from under the floors of the bathhouse. At the base of one of the walls of the washing room, a clay key is made - a tray with a slope of the underground surface. Sometimes it is made of concrete, but this will be more expensive.

If the bathhouse on stilts or a strip foundation is located on sandy or sandy loam soils, the pit can be made directly under the structure. Typically, you will need to construct a pit with a depth of at least 40 cm. Its bottom is filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand to a height of at least 25 cm. The crushed stone filler will break up streams of water well, and sand, being good filter, will absorb and release moisture into the soil.

Attention: when constructing a bathhouse on piles or strip foundations, at least 10 cm must remain from the bottom surface of the log to the level of backfilling of the pit.

Sometimes, instead of a hole under the floors of the bathhouse where washing will take place, you can install a special tray. Water will flow into it and be discharged through pipes into a drain, septic tank, pit or sewer system.

Construction of a leaky floor

When installing wooden poured floors with your own hands, keep in mind that there is no need to nail the flooring to the joists. Fastening is carried out around the perimeter of the room using cranial bars. This way you can ventilate wooden floors (floorings) by taking them outside after wet procedures.

From the photo, installing floors in a bathhouse is very difficult to do correctly. To do this, you should know some nuances:

For flooring, be sure to use moisture-resistant wood, such as larch or oak.
Logs are also best made from larch and must be treated with antiseptic impregnations and compounds that protect them from moisture. For these purposes, you can use ordinary bitumen, liquid rubber or penetrating waterproofing.

Installation of support columns for logs

Depending on the length of the lags, additional support posts may be needed under them. They are usually made of brick and have dimensions of 250x250 mm. The posts are installed on a concrete or sand pad. The pitch of the columns is 80-100 cm. The supports are protected with plaster mortar. Waterproofing consisting of two layers of roofing material must be laid under the joists on the posts.

The height of the columns depends on the distance from the ground level to the top of the piles or strip foundation. Taking into account the height of the logs, the distance from the surface of the leaking floor to the ground should be at least 30 cm.

Laying lags

Before laying the logs, you need to prepare a place for them. To do this, the base of the strip foundation or pile is protected with two layers of waterproofing material. Then a horizontal beam is laid on top of it, to which the logs will be attached.

If you are making a concrete or wooden floor that does not leak, you will need to make a slight slope for the floor to drain water. To do this, the logs should be laid correctly with a slight slope in the desired direction. To do this, small recesses are cut out in the logs at the place where they are laid on the horizontal framing beam. The depth of the recess in each subsequent element is gradually increased to create a slope of the floors. As a result, the logs will lie horizontally, and the floor in the bathhouse will have a slight slope. Usually a slope of 10 degrees is sufficient.

In the case of a leaky floor, there is no need to slope the joists, because water will already seep into the cracks between the boards.

Tip: laying the foundation for the stove is done after installing the joists before laying the floor. This will allow you to align the stove along the front surface of the floor.

Waterproofing works

Liquid bitumen can be used to waterproof the underground. They treat every surface of the underground. This will protect the structures not only from moisture, but also from contamination by soap flakes. Even if the surface treated with bitumen becomes dirty, it can be washed during sanitary maintenance of the underground. To do this, use a hose and strong water pressure.

Installing a leaky floor

To make flooring for a leaking floor, it is better to use a 4 cm thick edged board made of solid larch or oak. Use pine boards It is not suitable for bathhouse floors due to the increased resin content of the wood.

Before laying the floor, all boards must be carefully planed on all sides. This will avoid moisture stagnation in the fibers of the material. After this, the boards are laid on the logs. In this case, no fastening with nails is necessary. We leave a gap of at least 0.5 cm between the boards. Periodically, you need to clear the underground of debris. To do this, you can remove the floorboards above the drain and clean the space from any debris that accidentally gets there.

Drain device

When installing floors in a bathhouse, it is very important to properly construct a drainage system. The easiest way is to use a drainage pipe. It is laid at the stage of constructing the foundation under the washing room. The pipe is laid at an angle towards the drainage pit or other drainage system.

Important: the drain pipe should not have any bends or turns. It is better to choose a sewer pipe with a diameter of 150 mm.

The drainage hole should be dug at a distance of at least 3-5 m from the structure. To prevent it from subsiding over time and being covered with soil, its walls need to be further strengthened. For these purposes, you can use any reinforced concrete structures, brick or ordinary iron barrel without bottom. We make the floor of the pit uncovered. To ensure liquid drainage, we add gravel to the bottom of the hole. The top of the pit is covered with a lid with a ventilation hole.

When digging a hole, we immediately make a trench under the pipe from the bathhouse to the hole. In this case, the trench should slope towards the pit.
Next, the sewer pipe is laid in the trench. One end of the pipe is connected to a drain hole in the crawl space under the washing room. The other end of the pipe is discharged into the drain hole. If a concrete floor is being constructed, then it must be sloping towards the drain hole. With leaking floors, the slope is made underground on a clay castle.
To prevent debris from entering the premises from clogging the drain pipe, the drain hole is equipped with a mesh. Otherwise it may lead to congestion.

Drain tray in the underground

Since in the case of installing a leaky floor in a bathhouse with your own hands, it makes no sense to slope the flooring, it is necessary to organize a slope of the ground to allow water to drain into the drainage tray. From there, the liquid enters the pipe and drain hole through the drain.

Once a person becomes the owner country house, he has a completely predictable desire to also have a bathhouse. This structure is very easy to construct with your own hands, and you do not have to spend large financial resources. When building a bathhouse, close attention should be paid to the floor structure - a properly installed covering will ensure the outflow of water, and will not rot or stop functioning ahead of time. In addition, pleasant appearance will always please the eye.

In order to adequately cope with the task, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of flooring and the specifics of their application.

Peculiarities

It is very important to pay attention to the design and implementation of the floor structure in the bathhouse. If you manage to do everything efficiently, you will be able to provide high comfort to everyone in the room, as well as longevity of its service and versatility.

The peculiarity of the floor in the bathhouse is that it performs several equivalent functions. Firstly, the coating ensures the safety of movement of a person located at the junction of “two elements”. Secondly, in the steam room area it is responsible for removing excess water. Thirdly, this is an important part of the integral design of the sauna house. It is worth adding that the floor also helps retain heat in the room.

Most often, the floor in a bathhouse is made of wood and concrete. Sometimes brick is used, which is expensive and has a complex installation procedure.

Floor installation

To design a steam room, one of two is used basic types floors: leaking and non-leaking. The leaky one is always represented by a wooden structure made of floorboards, which is attached to a supporting joist system. As for the logs, they are mounted at a certain height on support pillars, a lower crown or a concrete screed. To allow water to drain freely, a tiny gap is left between the floor mats.

A leak-proof floor is made of wood or concrete. It is a monolithic covering with a slight slope, at the lower point of which a hole is cut, connected to the sewerage system. Through it, the used water is sent to the drain hole.

Both varieties demonstrate certain advantages and disadvantages. A leaking floor gets put together pretty quickly, but just as quickly it breaks down. It is worth adding that if it is not insulated, the temperature in the steam room will be problematically low.

The non-leakage layer demonstrates a complex structure, which allows for high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation. In the event of a breakdown, you will have to completely remove the final layer, while for a leak, it will be enough to remove only part of the floor mats.

Materials

According to experts, it is best to make the base of the floor from concrete, especially if you want to build a permanent building made of brick or stone, with several rooms, which will be used throughout the whole year. The concrete floor must be supplemented with a water drainage system and provided with waterproofing. This design is strong and durable; it is not afraid of water, steam, or temperature changes. Concrete floors can be used for up to 45 years without additional repairs.

However, there are certain disadvantages. Firstly, they are cold, so they have to be insulated with an additional coating, for example, tiled or self-leveling. Secondly, concrete floors require significant investments, both financial and labor. Concrete floors can be poured in three stages.

If you are building a small bathhouse that is used only during the summer season, then it makes sense to choose a wooden floor. It is quickly and easily built from environmentally friendly materials (preferably larch boards), looks very attractive and creates a unique atmosphere in the steam room of an old Russian bathhouse.

Unfortunately, such structures are not durable, because the wood will in any case lose its original characteristics when exposed to water treatment and temperature changes. It follows from this that you should be prepared to re-floor the floor after a certain period of time.

When installing wooden floors, it is recommended to choose coniferous trees– fir, larch, pine and others. Since such wood contains large number resin, it will be less susceptible to humidity, and the released essential oils will have a positive effect on the health of those taking water procedures. It is worth adding that coniferous floorboards, when moistened, will not become slippery, which means they will prevent falls.

Wooden structures are divided into leaking and non-leaking. The pouring floor does not have insulation, so it is suitable for bathhouses located in the southern regions, or for options used exclusively in warm time year.

The leak-proof floor is constructed from two layers of boards. The upper one, which will go on top, is preferably constructed from pine or hardwood boards, and the lower, dry one can be equipped with insulation.

The logs are installed on the foundation beam in the case of a columnar foundation, or on the edge in a situation with a strip foundation. The contact points are insulated with roofing felt coated with bitumen, Eurobitumen or a similar waterproofing material.

If the bathhouse stands on screw piles, then a hanging, leak-proof plank floor would be a good option. An additional layer of insulation will help you use the bathhouse at any time of the year.

Wood floors should not be painted or treated chemical solutions. This is unlikely to add durability, but it will deprive the boards of the ability to breathe and fill the steam room with a unique pine aroma. The most acceptable solution would be to thoroughly sand the boards before starting construction. You can also cover the floor with a heat-resistant water-based varnish that can withstand up to 120 degrees. The elastic coating prevents moisture, steam and dirt from penetrating the boards.

The two-layer composition is applied to the sanded and disinfected coating using a paint brush. The entire procedure is carried out in a ventilated room at a temperature of 5–30 degrees. Only after the varnish has dried after 2-3 hours is it possible to begin laying the floor covering.

Preparatory work

Having decided to create a bathhouse floor with your own hands, you need to start with high-quality preparatory work. The owner must understand the type of soil that is present on his territory. If it is sand, then this is the best option, because in order to create spaces for outgoing wastewater, you only have to fill in gravel 25 cm thick. If there is soil that does not filter well, for example, clay, then you will have to make a tray to move liquid waste outside the bathhouse .

In case of large-scale bath buildings It’s also worth thinking about the support pillars in advance. For each column with a cross-section of 25 cm, a small foundation is prepared or sand is compacted. An asbestos pipe with the required diameter, buried in the ground, will be a good support. The soil is compacted around it, and then cement mortar is poured into the finished formwork. Before installing the logs, the columns are leveled.

Before installing the floor, you also have to remove excess debris, roots, large stones, etc. from the ground. If the inside of the load-bearing blocks is clearly damp, you will have to postpone work until they are partially dry.

Installation

A concrete floor is a regular screed made from a solution of sand, cement and special fillers such as crushed stone, gravel or natural marble chips. Ready-made mixtures are sold in all construction stores in dry form and are completely ready for use. The mixture is diluted with ordinary water, according to the step-by-step guide, mixed with a hammer drill with a suitable nozzle and used for its intended purpose.

If the screed turns out to be the final covering or light boards will be attached to it, no additional ingredients need to be added to the mixture. If the concrete is to be covered with tiles, then it is recommended to add gypsum and anhydrite to the initial composition. You can do this yourself or purchase a suitable option in the store.

The concrete floor is mounted on logs or directly on the ground. If you follow step by step instructions, then first of all it is necessary to create a system for removing water. It is a structure consisting of a small hole dug in the ground and two pipes. The hole measures 40 x 40 x 30 centimeters, and its walls and bottom are to be covered with concrete. On one side of the hole, a pipe with a cross-section of 20 cm is inserted, which will go into a drainage ditch or into an autonomous septic tank. The second pipe will connect the pit to the bathhouse itself.

It is recommended to equip it with a valve to prevent unpleasant odors from penetrating into the steam room. In addition, it is recommended to make “vents” from asbestos pipes in the base of the bathhouse. They will help eliminate unpleasant “olfactory effects.”

At the second stage, it is necessary to prepare the site on which the screed will be placed. To create a “pit”, the top layer of soil is removed, then sand, broken bricks, gravel and crushed stone are poured into the resulting depression. The layer of the first three components should reach a thickness of 25 cm, and crushed stone - 10. Everything is thoroughly compacted and filled with a mixture of sand and cement, up to 6 centimeters thick.

It is important that the concrete layer slopes towards the prepared hole with pipes.

After the solution has dried, thermal insulation and waterproofing are laid. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam or vapor barrier and felt insulation are used as insulation. Roofing material or ordinary polyethylene film can act as a waterproofing material. Latest material fits under and on top of the thermal insulation. At the next stage, a metal grid is installed for high-quality reinforcement.

Finally, the main screed is poured from the far corner towards the exit of the steam room. You immediately need to level the mortar with a trowel and, if necessary, correct any flaws, which will require the help of another person. The floor will dry for 2-3 days, and then boards or tiles can be installed on top. The finishing is also laid at an angle of 2 cm in the direction of the drain. If concrete is chosen for the final floor, then it needs to be processed: leveled and sanded. Drain holes should be covered with wooden grates for comfort and aesthetic appeal.

Concrete floors are quite cold, so it is also recommended to prepare special wooden grates for people to walk on. These grates are dried after each visit to the bathhouse. The same designs are used if there is ceramic tiles. They help limit sliding on the floor and excessive heating of the tiles.

The floor in a wooden bathhouse is created by two in different ways. The first allows you to make a leaky coating, and the second - a non-leaking one. In the first case, suitable for beginners, a flooring of planks is installed at intervals of approximately 3 mm to drain liquids. Through them, water moves directly into the drainage hole. The main trump card is the fact that such a floor can be removed and dried, which means that it will not rot and can be used for a longer time.

The plot of land is leveled and sprinkled with gravel. Next, a clay surface with a pit is usually formed. If the choice is given to a cement screed, then it is necessary to provide it with waterproofing. Wooden logs, which must be pre-treated, are mounted on supports at intervals of 50 cm - this way air can easily blow through the structure from all sides. Then the flooring is laid, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the walls, floor and boards. A slope for water drainage is arranged under a wooden flooring, for which gravel is used. The descending water will be directed into the filter well.

This design can last up to 6 years if the coating is periodically dried. It is recommended to collect it from larch or conifers, but in no case from oaks, which are very slippery when wet. The boards should be 4–5 cm thick. Typically, leaking floors are used in dachas, where the owners come periodically during the summer season.

The second type of wooden floors is non-leakage with a drain, which is chosen by the owners of year-round heated bathhouses. The floor is placed on a concrete screed with a slope, which is formed so that the water drains smoothly and is directed into a sump adapted for this purpose. These coatings can last up to 12 years, thanks to the presence of rough and thermal insulation layers.

First of all, a hole with pipes is made according to the algorithm given for concrete floors. Then the site is prepared and, if desired, a concrete screed is poured. The floor base is covered with roofing felt for waterproofing and foam with expanded clay for insulation.

The logs are mounted on solid bedside tables, which are cut out of reinforced concrete and decorated with brick or concrete stands, at intervals of 50 centimeters. Then the intermediate base is installed. The height at which the logs are planned is determined depending on the height of the embedded beam (for a columnar foundation) or concrete “strips” (for a strip foundation). The logs are placed in parallel with the narrow side of the steam room away from the walls of the bathhouse - it is recommended to consider a gap of 3-4 cm. Notches should also be made on the logs to achieve an inclined surface.

A water collector measuring 40 x 40 cm and 30 cm deep is placed between the supports and compacted concrete mortar or clay. At a height of 2 cm from the bottom, a pipe is mounted at an angle so that the liquid easily falls into the cesspool.

The “bottom” floor, made of low-grade planks, fixed at the bottom of the beams, is covered with another layer of insulation and roofing felt, as well as a vapor barrier, which will protect all previous levels from liquids. After this, a finishing layer of tongue-and-groove boards is installed with a slope of 10 degrees. The mounting groove must fit inside the structure. The slope occurs due to the fact that the cutting in the log on the side that is directed to the waste collection point increases.

It is important that the boards adjoin closely, and the covering is attached to the joists with screws and nails at 45 degrees. The boards are selected to be 3–5 cm thick. The foundation for the stove-heater is installed after installing the logs, but before laying the flooring.

Upon completion of all this work, the room is dried, the boards are finally nailed, and the floor itself is supplemented with baseboards. The baseboard should be mounted so that flowing moisture does not end up under the slats. This means that there should be no gaps, and the sheathing should lie on the baseboard itself.

Warm floor

A warm floor in a bathhouse allows you not only to achieve an optimal microclimate in the room, but also to dry it efficiently. Thus, the service life of the finishing and lower floors is extended. The heated floor system is actually expensive, but it creates additional comfort for its owners.

To construct a heated system in a bathhouse, you can use two methods: water pipes or an electric cable. The first option is quite complicated in terms of installation. Water pipes are heavy, especially under water pressure. This means that you will have to provide enhanced reinforcement of the floor screed. It is a closed pipeline system through which, thanks to the operation of the pump, the coolant liquid moves. Usually this is water, but antifreeze, ethylene glycol and other varieties are also allowed. To set up such a system, you will need a boiler, pump, plastic or copper pipes, as well as fittings.

The design is complex, so it will be difficult to identify the cause of the leak, especially if there is a concrete screed. And in case of serious damage, the entire system will have to be replaced. The disadvantages of a water floor in a steam room also include:

installation complexity - many bends, it is difficult to maintain the required gaps between pipes;
using a water pump is a huge waste of energy resources;
difficult temperature control.

There are two ways to lay a water floor: concrete and flooring. The first is similar to laying electronic cables, but differs in greater thickness. The pipe laying pitch reaches 40 cm. There should be no sharp bends or kinks that interfere with the circulation of the coolant. The second is carried out on a special base made of wood or polystyrene foam. In addition, heated floors can also be installed on a wooden surface.

To install water-heated floors, tubes made of metal-plastic, polyethylene or steel are most often used. Their installation is carried out using two methods: “snake” or “snail”. The first method is only available to professionals, as it is considered very labor-intensive. Its main disadvantage is that the floor surface experiences different temperature conditions. They are usually the highest at the entrance, and the further you go, the colder it gets. The fact is that water is supplied on one side and leaves on the other. The second installation method allows the heat to be distributed equally throughout the entire floor.

For design electrical system Factory “cable floors”, film infrared models or rod infrared mats are used. Very often there are concerns about the safety of using an electric heated floor in a steam room or washing room. The owners are worried that due to a breakdown there will be a risk of electric shock. However, this option is impossible, because the possibility of liquid appearing in the system tends to zero. The structure warms up under the influence high temperatures and dry air, and even if it breaks down, moisture simply won’t have time to get inside.

Electrical cables are quite simple and easy to install in every way. They are sold as ready-made “submarines”, which can only be placed on the floor surface and filled with concrete. The cable must be laid on a mesh base. This system does not have any special problems with repair and installation. In addition, it is equipped with temperature sensors.

Infrared electric underfloor heating is called the most affordable and easiest way to provide auxiliary heating. Thermal film, sold in rolls, is rolled out onto the coating, and strips with heating elements are glued to the base with primitive adhesive tape. There is no need for a cement screed or additional waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Tile adhesive is immediately poured over the film and tiles are installed, usually made of porcelain stoneware or clinker. The floor covering can be placed directly on the warm layer, but craftsmen still prefer to leave an insulating-leveling layer between the film and the floor cladding.

Infrared floors are completely sealed and electrically safe and can even be used on floors with wooden components. The maximum heating temperature is 45 degrees and is very comfortable for visitors.

Elements of rod infrared heated floors are also called mats. Heating elements they contain rods that are connected to power wires. The rod “joints” are made in parallel, so the failure of one rod will not disrupt the operation of the entire system, which is very thoughtful. The core floor is mounted in tile adhesive or cement screed.

Conventional heated floors are placed on thermal insulation, then leveled with a screed, on top of which the final coating is placed. Professionals also recommend not skimping on waterproofing, which can prevent condensation from occurring during the work process. Simple polyethylene film is used as waterproofing, and mineral wool, expanded clay, expanded polystyrene and penofol are used as insulation.

Do not forget that when choosing a heated floor, it is extremely important to correctly approach the purchase of the final floor covering. If this happens tiles, which heats up quickly, you will have to put wooden grates on top.

Design

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms: steam rooms, washing rooms, relaxation rooms. However, the design of the flooring is not particularly original - as a rule, it is laconic and functional, and other decorative elements are responsible for the aesthetic component. Usually the choice depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities. The main criteria are still the use natural materials, minimalism and convenience.

The following materials are suitable for the floor:

tree– looks natural, creates the right atmosphere, is accessible and environmentally friendly;
concrete– durable, but aesthetically unattractive, and the problem of cold is also acute;

tile– many color solutions, it is possible to choose non-slip models;
porcelain stoneware- looks aesthetically pleasing, but slippery, so if used, it is better for a rest room, matte or polished.

Traditional finishing of a steam room involves the use of hardwood paneling as a wall covering. Such walls quickly warm up, but their temperature is considered comfortable for accidental touches. Under no circumstances should you use pine clapboard to decorate a steam room, as this base, when heated, produces toxic substances. For the ceiling, class A or B linden lining is suitable. If you want to decorate a traditional Russian bathhouse, then linden slab with bast will be the best finishing option.

The floor in the steam room can be made of wood or concrete, and a block of tiles can be placed near the stove. If you decide to cover the entire surface with tiles, you will have to take care wooden gratings, which will not heat up.

Most often preference is given wooden coverings. The interior should be lively, natural and without the presence of synthetic materials.

If preference is given to a steam room - sauna, then you can use a variety of design solutions. For example, combine lining with stone, and brick with granite slabs and a block house. However, exclusively wooden coverings are again recommended for the floor.

For the washing room, as a rule, combinations of wood and ceramic tiles are chosen. For example, it could be coniferous wood, which has high water-repellent characteristics and an attractive appearance.

The tile should be anti-slip and maintain a comfortable temperature. Otherwise, a special mat is required.

In the vestibule or rest room, aesthetic combinations of porcelain stoneware, natural stone, wallpaper and plaster are used. The design is carried out by harmonious combination furniture, accessories and finishing materials. There are no special requirements, the only thing is that the relaxation room should set you in the right mood and allow you to spend time comfortably.

So that the process of installing the floor in the bathhouse goes “without a hitch”, Experts recommend following a number of instructions.

For insulation, you should choose materials that are least responsive to elevated temperatures and humidity. That is, it is better to simultaneously organize not only heat, but also hydro and vapor barrier.
The bars should be laid correctly so that the liquid can flow down along the joint line.
If there is a possibility that the space under the floor will fill with moisture, it is necessary to create a gap from the internal backfill on top of the soil to wooden base. Its size reaches 15 centimeters.
Fiberglass underlays on the waterproofing floor will make movement on the floor inaudible. They are produced in the form of a thick tape, which is extremely convenient.

Wooden materials must be treated with an antiseptic. It is advisable to use a composition that can destroy all microorganisms and prevent damage to boards and beams. Besides, everything wooden parts pre-dried or purchased already in this form. If this is not done, the material will curl during use, cracks will appear and the shelf life of the floor will be significantly reduced.
If it is necessary to install ventilation, it is important to organize its correct output. Typically, a separate pipe follows the path along the wall into the attic. If the foundation is monolithic, then it is recommended to make holes that will connect the ventilation gaps with the air outside.
If the steam room area is large, then one drain will not cope with all the water. It will be necessary to think about several so that the material does not rot too quickly.
Dry floors not only eliminate moisture, but also lead to heat loss. In this situation, it is necessary to insulate the foundation and base of the log house, and place the sauna stove below the floor level.

The floor in the steam room rises relative to ground level. And in a separate washing room, on the contrary, it should be lower than in other rooms.
It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap under the floor. It can be installed at a height of 10–15 cm.
It is worth installing the finished floor so that there is an angle of inclination in the direction that is directed along the length of the boards, and not in width. This will help extend the service life of the products, since the direction of water is also one of the reasons in the rotting process.

To prevent the board from bursting when screwing in the screw, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees.
Under no circumstances should you use linoleum, laminate and other synthetic coatings in bathhouses, even in the rest room. In any case, such materials will begin to heat up and release substances that can poison the body. In the dressing room, such a covering should be placed on top of a special flooring that allows the floors to dry.
The selected boards must be edged or tongue-and-groove. Their thickness varies from 25 to 30 mm.

Beautiful examples

A high-quality concrete screed on the floor will go perfectly with wooden walls and the ceiling. The materials for the latter can be boards and lining, forming an original combination. Large window, laconic stove and simple wooden shelves ideally complement the interior.

The tiled area under the heater can become a bright accent of the steam room and, echoing the washing room, combine two interiors into one. You can add brutality to the room if you replace it with natural or artificial natural stone. He, in turn, will require inserts on the walls of the steam room itself.

Special attention should be paid to the arrangement of the floor in a private steam room. The level of comfort during use and the functionality of the bath itself depend on how well its design is thought out and implemented.

Materials for arranging floors in a steam room - what to use?

The floor base in the bathhouse performs several important functions at once. It not only ensures the safety of a person’s movement during water procedures, but is also part of the water removal system. A properly constructed floor in a bathhouse does not wear out prematurely and does not rot due to high humidity, effectively retains heat in the room. In private steam rooms, the bases we are interested in are most often made of wood and concrete. Brick coverings are used much less frequently. They are expensive and quite difficult to build with your own hands.

If you want to build a permanent bathhouse made of stone or brick with a rest room, washing area, dressing room and use it all year round, experts advise choosing a concrete base. It must be equipped with a well-thought-out water drainage system and effective waterproofing. But for small bathhouses used exclusively in the summer, simpler wooden floors are suitable. They are built much faster and easier, are environmentally friendly, and have a very presentable appearance.

Wood bases have been used for a very long time. They create special comfort in the steam room, permeate the room with pleasant natural aromas, and make every bath procedure a small holiday for the true Russian soul. True, there are many disadvantages to wooden floors. The durability of such structures leaves much to be desired. No matter how hard you try to protect wood from the harmful effects of water, it will quickly lose its initial properties. performance characteristics. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that after a while you will have to reinstall the wooden floors in the steam room.

Concrete structures are much preferable in terms of durability. They are not afraid of water and steam, temperature changes.

Concrete products can withstand even the most difficult operating conditions. On average, such foundations are used for 40–45 years without additional repairs. Let us immediately note the obvious disadvantages of concrete coatings. They are very cold (for this reason, a suitable finishing material, such as tile, is laid on top of them), labor-intensive to install with your own hands, and require a significant investment of time and money.

Concrete foundation - we build for centuries!

The floor for a concrete bathhouse is essentially a regular screed. It is made from a solution containing sand, cement and some special fillers (crushed stone, natural marble chips, gravel and others). We advise you not to bother mixing the required ingredients to obtain a concrete composition, but to immediately purchase the ready-made mixture at the nearest construction store. Factory-made sand-cement compositions in dry form are completely ready for use. They only need to be diluted with ordinary water in the recommended volume, thoroughly mixed with a hammer drill and nozzle, and then used for their intended purpose.

If the screed will serve as a finishing floor covering, or a simple flooring of boards will be installed on it, there is no need to add any special components to the purchased mixture. For cases where it is planned to lay tiles on top of a concrete coating, it is advisable to add a little anhydrite and gypsum to the cement-sand composition. It’s even easier to buy a self-leveling compound created specifically for such cases.

The concrete base for a bath can be mounted on logs or directly on the ground. The first stage of work is the arrangement of a basic system for water removal. It consists of an intermediate container (this role is usually played by a small hole 0.4x0.4x0.3 m dug in the ground) and two pipes. The walls and bottom of the hole should be concreted and a pipe with a cross-section of 20 cm should be brought to it. Its second end is led into an autonomous septic tank on the site or into a drainage ditch. We run another pipe from the pit into the bathhouse. It is advisable to equip this part of the system with a valve that prevents the penetration of unpleasant aromas into the steam room.

Next, we prepare the area for the screed. We remove the top layer of soil, pour sand into the resulting pit, tamp it down, and pour broken bricks or gravel on top. We should have a layer of approximately 0.25 m. Add 10 cm of crushed stone on top. Once again we tamp the whole cake and fill it sand-cement mixture(about 5–6 cm thick). Important nuance! The concrete layer must have a slight slope towards the pit-reservoir.

When the solution has hardened, lay it on mineral wool or polystyrene foam (you can add a layer of expanded clay or perlite). These materials play the role of effective insulation. Be sure to put waterproofing under the polystyrene foam and cotton wool (it’s best to use roofing felt). We cover the thermal insulation with the same material. Then we mount metal mesh(wire). It makes it possible to perform high-quality reinforcement.

Now you can pour the main screed. We apply the solution from the far corner and gradually approach the exit from the steam room. When pouring, the composition must be leveled (you need to work with an assistant). We perform this operation with a trowel. And to tighten the concrete in a circular motion, we use the rule. After 2–3 days the screed will harden. You can lay plank or tile flooring on it. We install the finishing with a two-centimeter slope towards the drain. If you plan to use concrete as a finishing coating (this is possible), simply carefully level and sand its surface. But remember that such a floor in a private bath will be cold. In winter, it is problematic to use a steam room with it.

Leaking wooden floor - acceptable quality with minimal labor costs

You can make a floor in a wooden bathhouse using two technologies. The first involves the construction of leaking foundations, the second - non-leaking ones. Advice. If the experience construction work If you have a small one, it’s better to fix leaking floors. They are made in the form of flooring from boards, between which gaps are specially left. Through them, used water goes into the ground. Insulation of such structures is not carried out, and a sewer system is not built. Instead of the latter it is used simple pit for drainage. They dig it under the bathhouse.

You can make a floor in a bathhouse of this type using the following algorithm:

1. Level the area of land, cover it with a layer of gravel, which should be compacted well.
2. We prepare wooden logs (cut to the required sizes, apply an antiseptic composition) and support posts for them.
3. We mount the treated logs on the supports, maintaining a distance between individual elements of 0.5 m.
4. Lay the boardwalk. We leave gaps of 2–3 mm between the wall of the bathhouse, the floor and the boards being mounted.

There is no need to fix the flooring elements to the joists. It is recommended to regularly remove the coating described and place it in the sun to dry. If necessary, it is possible to replace rotten boards at any time. The service life of the described floor structure is 4–6 years. Then you will have to build a new one. Such leaky floors are best used in a country house where you visit from time to time and rarely use the steam room.

There is another way to arrange simple plank coverings. It is less difficult to implement. After preparing the plot of land, you should place beams with a cross section of 10x10 to 15x15 cm along the perimeter of the foundation. Be sure to apply an antiseptic to them! We install logs on the beams, secure them, and install flooring from boards on top.

Both types of leaky floors can be constructed from hardwood and softwood. It is not recommended to lay oak boards. They become very slippery once wet. It is better to opt for products made from pine, linden or larch. Last option considered the most optimal. One more nuance. The flooring is made from planed edged boards 4–5 cm thick. Thinner products will not last long in conditions of high humidity.

Leak-resistant wood floor - environmentally friendly and quite reliable

Now let's try to make a leak-proof base correctly. It will take more time to build such a structure. But the result of the work will be of higher quality. Leak-resistant wood floors are suitable for steam rooms used year-round. The design of such foundations requires the arrangement of a rough intermediate coating and the mandatory installation of a heat-insulating layer. Due to this, the service life of such structures reaches 10–12 years.

We build a leak-proof floor in the bathhouse using the following step-by-step guide:

1. We make a hole-reservoir, lay pipes for drains by analogy with arranging drainage for concrete pavements.
2. Prepare the site. We remove the layer of soil and fill the cleaned area with sand and gravel. We ram each layer of material. If desired, fill in a concrete screed (5–6 cm). This part of the operation is optional. If you want to save time and money, skip it.
3. Cover the floor base with a waterproofing layer. The best protector from moisture in this case will be roofing material.
4. We carry out insulation using polystyrene foam or expanded clay. Mineral wool is not used for thermal insulation of non-leaking bases.
5. We install the logs in 0.5 m increments on the pre-assembled beams. To make the latter, you need to use 10x20 cm bars. These supports, as you remember, are fastened along the perimeter of the foundation.

Then we install the intermediate base. We fix the subfloor from below the beams. We cover it with an additional heat-insulating layer (mounted on roofing felt). We lay another layer of waterproofing material on top of the insulation. The last stage of work is the installation of the finished floor. We install it with a slope, laying the boards close to each other. The finishing coating is attached to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws.

We take tongue and groove boards for non-leaking floors, 3–5 cm thick. We make logs from wooden blocks with dimensions of 5x7 cm. Please note! The lower edge of the wood floor base must rise 10–20 cm above the level of the base (its upper edge) of the bathhouse. We hope that our instructions will help you build a truly reliable floor in your steam room.