Nowadays, many residents of private houses install water heated floors for their main or additional heating. It has many advantages: it increases comfort, evenly warms the room, and does not require additional energy costs (since it operates from one boiler with radiators). The instructions in our article will allow you to install water heated floors even without experience. However, before doing this, it is worth studying all the nuances.
The warm water floor system is best combined with laying under and tiles.
- Firstly, both materials are strong and durable.
- Secondly, they do not emit harmful substances when heated.
- And thirdly, heating perfectly complements the tiles (the material itself is cold), and you can even walk on it barefoot thanks to its high heat capacity.
Of course, heated floors can also be made under linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet, if there is a special mark.
But, for example, there is no point in heating the carpet, and the surface temperature cannot be exceeded above 31°C, according to SNiP 41-01-2003. Otherwise, it will provoke the release of harmful substances.
Installation in an apartment
Probably, many residents had the idea to independently connect water heated floors to the system “for free” central heating or DHW. And some even do this, but in most cases it is prohibited by local law.
For example, in Moscow there is government decree No. 73-PP dated February 8, 2005; Appendix No. 2 clearly states that it is prohibited to re-equip public water supply systems for floor heating.
If you break the rules, at best, you can get a fine on your first visit to the plumbers. And at worst, there is a risk of leaving your neighbors without heating.
In some regions the ban does not apply, but connection requires an examination so as not to disrupt the operation of the system.
In general, from a technical point of view, such options are possible, but only if a separate pumping and mixing unit is connected and the pressure in the system is maintained at the outlet.
Note! If in apartment building If there is a jet pump (elevator), then metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes cannot be used.
Floor installation methods
There are several ways to create a warm water floor.
- The most popular and reliable of them is concrete screed. Unlike electrical types, 16 mm pipes cannot be hidden in tile adhesive, and it won’t work. Therefore, the screed is poured at least 3 cm above the pipes.
- The second method is to lay pipes in cut-out polystyrene foam grooves. The grooves are made by hand, pipes are laid inside, then the screed is poured.
- The next option is often used in houses with wooden floors, although it requires a lot of labor - laying it in wooden grooves. To do this, boards are placed on the floor, which create a gutter of the desired shape for installation.
Types of pipes used
Three types of pipes are suitable for a warm water floor.
- Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-EVOH-PEX) are inconvenient to work with because it is difficult to give them the desired shape (they straighten when heated). But they are not afraid of liquid freezing and are repairable.
- Metal-plastic pipes – best option: low price, easy to install, keep their shape stably.
- Copper pipes are expensive; when used in a screed, they must be covered with a protective layer to prevent alkaline attack.
Calculation of a warm water floor
Before installation and purchasing materials, it is necessary to calculate the heated floor. To do this, draw a diagram with contours, which will later be useful when carrying out repair work to know the position of the pipes.
- If you are sure that furniture or plumbing will always be in a certain place, pipes are not laid in this place.
- The length of a circuit with a diameter of 16 mm should not exceed 100 m (the maximum for 20 mm will be 120 m), otherwise the pressure in the system will be poor. Thus, each circuit approximately occupies no more than 15 square meters. m.
- The difference between the lengths of several circuits should be small (less than 15 m), that is, they should all be of uniform length. Large rooms, accordingly, are divided into several circuits.
- The optimal pipe laying pitch is 15 cm when using good thermal insulation. If in winter there are often frosts below -20, then the step is reduced to 10 cm (only possible near external walls). And in the north you cannot do without additional radiators.
- With a laying step of 15 cm, the pipe consumption is approximately 6.7 m for each square of the room, when laid every 10 cm - 10 m.
The graph shows the dependence of the flux density on the average coolant temperature. The dotted lines indicate pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, and the solid lines indicate 16 mm. 
The graph shows data that is valid only when using a 7 cm thick cement-sand screed covered with tiles. If the thickness of the screed is increased, for example, by 1 cm, then the heat flow density decreases by 5-8%.
- To find the flux density, the amount of heat loss in the room in Watts is divided by the area where the pipes are laid (the distances from the walls are subtracted).
- The average temperature is calculated as the average value at the entrance to the circuit and the return exit.
The optimal temperature at the inlet and outlet should not differ by more than 5-10 degrees. The maximum coolant temperature should not exceed 55°C.
Using the above diagram, you can only perform a rough calculation and make final adjustments using the mixing unit and thermostats. For accurate design, be sure to contact professional heating engineers.
Warm floor pie
The technology for laying a warm water floor consists of several layers, which are laid in a certain sequence. The total thickness of the cake is 8-14 cm, the load on the floors is up to 300 kg/sq. m.
If the base is a concrete slab: 
- waterproofing;
- insulation;
- reinforcing mesh;
- water heated floor pipe;
- screed
For waterproofing, it is permissible to use ordinary polyethylene film or special materials. Damper tape is made from cut strips of thermal insulation 1-2 cm thick, or purchased ready-made option with self-adhesive backing.
The choice of insulation depends on several factors: region, base material. For example, for floors on the ground, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm (optimally 10) is used, and if there is a warm base under the floor of the first floor, then thinner options from 3 cm can be used.
The main purpose of insulation is to direct the heat from the heating upward and prevent large heat losses.
If the base is ground floors: 
- bulk soil 15 cm;
- crushed stone 10 cm;
- sand 5 cm;
- rough screed;
- waterproofing;
- damper tape around the perimeter;
- extruded polystyrene foam at least 5 cm;
- reinforced screed with coolants.
It is important to carefully compact the preparatory layers for the rough screed layer by layer. If the base is compacted tightly and extruded polystyrene foam is used, it will not be necessary to make a rough screed.
Installation of heated floors
Let's say a good foundation has already been prepared: a flat concrete slab or backfill layer without strong drops. Differences should not exceed 7 mm when checking with a two-meter rod. If there are uneven spots, they can be filled with sand.
Waterproofing
Some people put waterproofing under the bottom of the insulation, some, on the contrary, at the top, and some use both.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used, it practically does not need waterproofing, so its position is not so critical. But it will not allow cement laitance to penetrate between the seams of the insulation and go into the slab and will additionally hold back moisture from below.
If you attach it to the bottom of the insulation, then you can attach the pipes to the heated floor directly to the insulation. If the waterproofing is laid on top, then laying a mounting mesh will be required to secure the pipes.
We lay the waterproofing with an overlap of 20 cm on the walls and on each other. We glue the joints with tape to seal.
Damper tape
If you bought ready-made tape, simply glue it around the perimeter. It usually has a thickness of 5-8 mm and a height of 10-15 cm. The height should be above the pouring level, the excess is cut off with a knife. If the tape is made by yourself, then be sure to glue or screw it to the wall with self-tapping screws.
The linear expansion of concrete is 0.5 mm per meter when heated to 40°C.
Insulation
Sheet insulation for a warm water floor is laid with offset joints so that it is tightly connected.
Reinforcement
The first layer of reinforcing mesh is usually laid on the insulation and used as a base for attaching the contours and uniformly distributing heat over the surface. The meshes are tied together with wire. The pipes are attached to the mesh using nylon clamps.
The diameter of the mesh rods is 4-5 mm, and the cell size depends on the pipe laying pitch, for convenient fastening.
In addition, it is imperative to lay the reinforcement on top of the pipes, since even when using a mesh from below, it will have almost no effect if it lies at the very bottom. Or, during pouring, place the mesh on stands, creating a gap.
Pipe fixation methods
A water heated floor can be laid in several ways, we list them. 
- Polyamide tension clamp. Used for quick fastening of pipes to the mounting grid. Consumption – approximately 2 pieces per 1 m.
- Steel fastening wire. Also used for mounting to a grid, the consumption is exactly the same.
- Stapler and clamps. Suitable for quickly fixing pipes to thermal insulation. The consumption of clamps is 2 pieces per 1 m.
- Fixing track. It is a U-shaped PVC strip that serves as a base for laying 16 or 20 mm pipes into it. Rigidly attached to the floor.
- Mats for warm water floors made of polystyrene. A pipe is laid in the middle of the grooves between the posts.
- Aluminum distribution plate. Used when installing on wooden floors, it reflects and evenly distributes heat over the surface.
Application various types pipe fastening Pipe laying
The pipes are laid with a distance of 15-20 cm from the walls. It is highly advisable to make each circuit from a single pipe without welding, and their length should not be more than 100 m. The pitch between the pipes near the walls is 10 cm, closer to the center - 15 cm.
The layout of a heated floor can be different, for example, a spiral or a snake. On external walls, they try to make the laying step more frequent or draw a contour from the feed next to cold walls. An example of a circuit for enhanced heating of external walls is shown in the photo; this option is best used in cold regions: 
In other cases, the contours are usually laid in a spiral (snail), this is a universal option.
In places with a large accumulation of pipes, in order to avoid overheating of the surface, some of them are covered with a heat-insulating tube.
Metal-plastic 16 mm and 20 mm are easy to bend manually, without the use of special tools. In order to bend the pipes evenly with an angle of a small radius and at the same time prevent it from cracking, the corners are bent in several passes (hand interceptions).
At an angle of 90° you will need approximately 5-6 interceptions. This means, first, resting your thumbs, make a slight bend, then move your hands slightly towards the bend and repeat the actions.
It is unacceptable to have kinks on the pipes in places of sharp turns.
Polypropylene pipes are much more difficult to bend because they are springy. Therefore, to bend them, they are heated or made, but in the case of heated floors, they are simply attached to the mesh, making the bends less sharp.
Installation of a water heated floor begins by connecting the first end of the pipe to the distribution manifold, and after laying the room, immediately connect the return (second end).
Connecting circuits
In most cases, the circuits are connected through a distribution node. It has several functions: increasing the pressure in the system, adjusting the temperature, uniform supply to several circuits, combining with radiators.
There are many connection schemes to the boiler, which we wrote about in the article about: with manual adjustment, with weather automatics and automatic adjustment using servos and sensors.
Eurocone fitting The pipes are connected to the manifold using Eurocone clamp fittings.
Crimping
When you have completed the installation of all circuits, be sure to conduct pneumatic tests of the system for leaks. To do this, crimping is done using a compressor. A small household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is suitable for testing. The pressure in the system is brought to 4 bar and left for the entire time until the system is started.
Since air molecules are much smaller than water molecules, even small depressurization can be detected. In addition, the water may freeze if you do not have time to turn on the heating, and nothing will happen to the air.
Heated floor screed
Filling the screed is done only after installation of all circuits and hydraulic tests. It is recommended to use concrete of at least M-300 (B-22.5) with crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm. Minimum thickness 3 cm above the pipe is done not only to obtain the required strength, but also to distribute heat evenly over the surface. Weight 1 sq. m of screed with a thickness of 5 cm is up to 125 kg.
If the screed thickness is more than 15 cm or under high loads, additional calculation of the thermal regime is required.
As the thickness of the screed increases, it takes more time to heat it up to a certain temperature after switching on, and the inertia of the system also increases. The lower the thermal conductivity of the screed, the higher the coolant temperature will need to be set.
Expansion joints
Examples of dividing a large room into zones Absence or incorrect position of temperature gaps is the most common cause destruction of the screed.
Shrinkage seams are made in the following cases:
- the room has an area of more than 30 sq. m.;
- the walls are more than 8 m long;
- the length and width of the room differ by more than 2 times;
- above expansion joints of structures;
- The room is too curved.
To do this, lay around the perimeter of the seams damper tape. At the seam site, the reinforcing mesh must be divided. The deformation gap should be 10 mm thick at the base. The upper part is treated with sealant. If the room has a non-standard shape, it needs to be divided into simpler rectangular or square shape.
If pipes pass through expansion joints in the screed, in these places they are laid in a corrugated pipe, 30 cm of corrugation in each direction (according to SP 41-102-98 - 50 cm on each side). It is recommended not to separate one circuit with expansion joints; supply and return pipes should pass through it.
Correct passage of contours through technological seams When laying tiles on expansion joints, the likelihood of them peeling off increases due to different expansion of adjacent slabs. To avoid this, the first part is laid with tile adhesive, and the second part is attached with elastic sealant.
For additional separation, partial profile expansion joints can be used. They are made using a trowel, 1/3 of the thickness. After the concrete has hardened, they are also sealed with sealant. If pipes pass through them, they are also protected with corrugation.
Cracks in the screed
A fairly common occurrence is the appearance of cracks on the screed after drying. This can be caused by a number of reasons:
- low density of insulation;
- poor compaction of the solution;
- absence of plasticizers;
- the thickness of the screed is too thick;
- absence of shrinkage seams;
- concrete drying too quickly;
- incorrect proportions of solution.
It's very easy to avoid them:
- insulation should be used with a density higher than 35-40 kg/m3;
- the screed solution must be plastic when laying and with the addition of fiber and plasticizer;
- in large rooms you need to make shrink seams (see below);
- You should also not let the concrete set quickly; to do this, cover it with plastic wrap the next day (for a week).
Screed mortar
For heated floors, it is necessary to use a plasticizer to increase the elasticity and strength of concrete. But you need to use special types of non-air-entraining plasticizers for heated floors.
Without experience, it will not be possible to make a cement-sand screed for a warm floor without crushed stone/gravel, and the correct branded DSP will cost more than factory-made concrete. Therefore, in order to avoid cracks due to a violation of the composition of the solution, concrete with crushed stone is poured.
Mortar M-300 from cement grade M-400, washed sand and crushed stone is made according to the following proportions.
- Mass composition C: P: Shch (kg) = 1: 1.9: 3.7.
- Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P: Shch (l) = 17:32.
- From 10 liters of cement you will get 41 liters of solution.
- The volumetric weight of such M300 concrete will be 2300-2500 kg/m3 (heavy concrete)
There is also another option using granite screenings instead of sand; the following elements were used for its preparation:
- 2 buckets of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm;
- water 7-8 liters;
- superplasticizer SP1 400 ml of solution (1.8 liters of powder is diluted in 5 liters of hot water);
- 1 bucket of cement;
- 3-4 buckets of granite screenings with a fraction of 0-5 mm;
- bucket volume – 12 liters.
High-quality concrete should not release water during installation (delaminate). If everything is done correctly and the air temperature is 20°C, it should begin to set after 4 hours, and after 12 hours it will not leave marks from heels.
3 days after pouring, the screed will gain half its strength, and will harden completely only after 28 days. It is not recommended to turn on the heating system before this point. 
Installation on a wooden floor
Wood does not conduct heat as efficiently as concrete, but installation on it is also feasible. For this purpose, distribution plates made of aluminum are used. The pipes are laid in wooden grooves made by attaching pre-prepared boards.
For installation of linoleum, carpet and other materials that require a flat surface, a leveling layer of chipboard, plywood or gypsum fiber board is laid over the pipes. If parquet or laminate is used as the finishing coating, the design of the heated floor can be slightly simplified, without the use of a leveling layer.
When choosing plywood and chipboard, make sure that they have sanitary, hygienic and thermomechanical characteristics that allow them to be used together with heated floors.
Prices for water heated floors
The price of a water-heated floor is formed from several components:
- cost of materials (pipes, insulation, fasteners, etc.);
- cost of the pumping and mixing unit and manifold;
- work on leveling the base and pouring the top layer of screed;
- cost of installing heated floors.
On average, the price of a water heated floor when installed on a turnkey basis, along with all materials and work, will cost approximately 1,500-3,000 rubles per 1 sq. m. m.
Below is approximate estimate per house 100 sq. m., but prices for water heated floors greatly depend on the region, so it is best to enter your data there and make an independent calculation. This does not take into account the costs of installation and purchase of radiators, boiler, finishing coating and screed.
| Estimate for installation of a water heated floor system on the 1st floor. | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| № | Name of material | Unit change | Qty | Price | Sum |
| 1 | Extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm | m2 | 96 | 227 | 21792 |
| 2 | Mounting grid 150*150*4 | m2 | 106 | 30 | 3180 |
| 3 | Polyethylene film 250 microns | m2 | 105 | 40 | 4200 |
| 4 | Metal-plastic pipe 16 mm | m.p. | 700 | 39 | 27300 |
| 5 | Damping tape from the substrate | m2 | 30 | 50 | 1500 |
| 6 | Valtec manifold 1″, 7 x 3/4″, “eurocone” | PC. | 2 | 1600 | 3200 |
| 7 | Fitting for connecting to the manifold (Euroconus) 16x2 mm | PC. | 14 | 115 | 1610 |
| 8 | Pumping and mixing unit | PC. | 1 | 14500 | 14500 |
| 9 | Dowels and screws | PC. | 300 | 1,5 | 450 |
| 10 | Mounting tape | m.p. | 50 | 11 | 550 |
| 11 | Other components for heated water floors | pos | 1 | 0 | 0 |
| Total by materials | 78282 | ||||
| Name of works | Unit change | Qty | Price | Sum | |
| 1 | Rough screed | m2 | 96 | 60 | 5760 |
| 2 | Installation of damper tape | m.p. | 160 | 60 | 9600 |
| 3 | Laying waterproofing | m2 | 100 | 60 | 6000 |
| 4 | Laying the mounting grid | m2 | 110 | 150 | 16500 |
| 5 | Pipe installation | m2 | 96 | 300 | 28800 |
| 6 | System pressure testing | m2 | 96 | 20 | 1920 |
| Total by work | 68580 | ||||
| 1 | Total by materials | 78282 | |||
| 2 | Total by work | 68580 | |||
| 3 | Total | 146862 | |||
| Overhead transportation costs | 10% | 14686 | |||
| In total, according to the estimate, installation of a water heated floor system is 1 floor. | 161548 | ||||
Installation of warm water floors is shown in the video:
In rooms heated using underfloor heating technology, the feeling is much more comfortable than with a traditional radiator system. When the floor is heated, the temperature is distributed optimally: the feet are warmest, and at head level it is cooler. There are two heating methods: water and electric. Water is more expensive to install, but cheaper to operate, so this is what is used more often. You can slightly reduce installation costs if you make a water-heated floor with your own hands. The technology is not the simplest, but it does not require encyclopedic knowledge.
Design and principle of operation
For water heating of a heated floor, a system of pipes is used through which the coolant circulates. Most often, pipes are poured into a screed, but there are dry installation systems - wooden or polystyrene. In any case, there is a large number of small cross-section pipes laid under flooring.
Where can it be mounted?
Because of large quantity Water heating pipes are made mainly in private homes. The fact is that the heating system of early high-rise buildings is not designed for this heating method. It is possible to make a warm floor using heating, but there is a high probability that either your place will be too cold, or your neighbors above or below will, depending on the type of power supply to the system. Sometimes the entire riser becomes cold: the hydraulic resistance of the water floor is several times higher than that of a radiator heating system and it can block the movement of the coolant. For this reason, it is very difficult to obtain permission from the management company to install a heated floor (installation without permission is an administrative offense).
The good news is that in new buildings they began to make two systems: one for radiator heating, the second for water heated floors. In such houses, permission is not required: the corresponding system was developed taking into account higher hydraulic resistance.
Principles of organization
To understand what you need to make a water heated floor with your own hands, you need to understand what the system consists of and how it works.
Adjusting the coolant temperature
In order for your feet to feel comfortable on the floor, the temperature of the coolant should not exceed 40-45°C. Then the floor warms up to comfortable values - about 28°C. Most heating equipment cannot produce such a temperature: at least 60-65°C. Exception - condensation gas boilers. They show maximum efficiency at low temperatures. From their output, the heated coolant can be supplied directly to the underfloor heating pipes.
When using any other type of boiler, a mixing unit is required. In it, cooled coolant from the return pipeline is added to the hot water from the boiler. You can see the composition of this connection in the diagram for connecting the heated floor to the boiler.
The operating principle is as follows. The heated coolant comes from the boiler. It goes to the thermostatic valve, which, when the temperature threshold is exceeded, opens the admixture of water from the return pipeline. In the photo there is a jumper in front of the circulation pump. A two-way or three-way valve is installed in it. Open it and mix in the cooled coolant.
The mixed flow through the circulation pump enters the thermostat, which controls the operation of the thermostatic valve. When the set temperature is reached, the supply from the return stops; if it is exceeded, it opens again. This is how the temperature of the water heated floor coolant is adjusted.
Contour distribution
Next, the coolant enters the distribution comb. If a water heated floor is made in one small room (a bathroom, for example), in which only one loop of pipes is laid, this unit may not exist. If there are several loops, then it is necessary to somehow distribute the coolant between them, and then somehow collect it and send it to the return pipeline. This task is performed by the distribution comb or, as it is also called, the underfloor heating manifold. Essentially, these are two pipes - supply and return, to which the inputs and outputs of all underfloor heating circuits are connected. This is the simplest option.
If the heated floor is installed in several rooms, then it is better to install a collector with the ability to adjust the temperature. Firstly, in different rooms different temperatures are required: some prefer +18°C in the bedroom, others need +25°C. Secondly, most often, the circuits have different lengths and can transfer different amounts of heat. Thirdly, there are “internal” rooms - in which one wall faces the street, and there are corner ones - with two or even three external walls. Naturally, the amount of heat in them should be different. This is ensured by combs with thermostats. The equipment is not cheap, the circuit is more complicated, but this installation allows you to maintain the desired temperature in the room.
There are different thermostats. Some control the air temperature in the room, while others control the floor temperature. You choose the type yourself. Regardless of this, they control servomotors mounted on the feed comb. Servomotors, depending on the command, increase or decrease the flow area, regulating the intensity of the coolant flow.
Theoretically (and practically it happens), situations may arise when the supply to all circuits is cut off. In this case, the circulation will stop, the boiler may boil and fail. To prevent this from happening, be sure to create a bypass through which part of the coolant passes. With this system design, the boiler is safe.
You can watch one of the system options in the video.
Laying a warm water floor
One of the key components of the system is pipes and their fixation system. There are two technologies:
Both systems are imperfect, but laying pipes in a screed is cheaper. Although it has a lot of disadvantages, it is due to its lower cost that it is more popular.
Which system to choose
In terms of cost, dry systems are more expensive: their components (if you take ready-made, factory-made ones) cost more. But they weigh much less and are put into operation faster. There are several reasons why you should use them.
First: the heavy weight of the screed. Not all foundations and floors of houses are able to withstand the load created by a water-heated floor in a concrete screed. Above the surface of the pipes there must be a layer of concrete of at least 3 cm. If we take into account that the outer diameter of the pipe is also about 3 cm, then the total thickness of the screed is 6 cm. The weight is more than significant. And on top there is often another tile on a layer of glue. It’s good if the foundation is designed with a reserve, it will hold up, but if not, problems will begin. If there is a suspicion that the ceiling or foundation will not bear the load, it is better to make a wooden or polystyrene system.
Second: low maintainability of the screed system. Although when laying underfloor heating circuits it is recommended to lay only solid coils of pipes without joints, periodically the pipes are damaged. Either it was hit with a drill during repairs, or it burst due to a defect. The location of the damage can be determined by a wet spot, but it is difficult to repair: you have to break the screed. In this case, adjacent loops can be damaged, causing the damage area to become larger. Even if you managed to do it carefully, you have to make two seams, and these are the potential places for further damage.
Third: commissioning of a heated floor in a screed is possible only after the concrete has reached 100% strength. This takes at least 28 days. Before this date, you cannot turn on the heated floor.
Fourth: you have a wooden floor. It's hard in itself wooden floor- not the best idea, and also a screed with an increased temperature. The wood will quickly collapse and the entire system will collapse.
The reasons are serious. Therefore, in some cases, it is more advisable to use dry technologies. Moreover, making a wooden water-heated floor with your own hands is not that expensive. The most expensive component is metal plates, but they can also be made from thin sheet metal and, better yet, aluminum. It is important to be able to bend, forming grooves for pipes.
A variant of a polystyrene heated floor system without screed is demonstrated in the video.
Materials for heated water floors
Most often they make a water-heated floor in a screed. About its structure and necessary materials and the speech will begin. The diagram of a warm water floor is shown in the photo below.
All work begins with leveling the base: without insulation, heating costs will be too high, and insulation can only be laid on a flat surface. Therefore, the first thing to do is prepare the base - make a rough screed. Next, we will describe step by step the order of work and the materials used in the process:
- A damper tape is also rolled out around the perimeter of the room. This is the strip thermal insulation material, no more than 1 cm thick. It prevents heat loss for heating the walls. Its second task is to compensate for the thermal expansion that occurs when materials are heated. The tape can be special, or you can also lay thin foam plastic cut into strips (no more than 1 cm thick) or other insulation of the same thickness.
- A layer of heat-insulating materials is laid on the rough screed. For underfloor heating, the best choice is polystyrene foam. Extruded is best. Its density must be at least 35 kg/m2. It is dense enough to withstand the weight of the screed and operating loads, has excellent characteristics and a long service life. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive. Other, cheaper materials (foam, mineral wool, expanded clay), have a lot of disadvantages. If possible, use polystyrene foam. The thickness of thermal insulation depends on many parameters - on the region, characteristics of the foundation material and insulation, and the method of organizing the subfloor. Therefore, it must be calculated in relation to each case.
- Next, a reinforcing mesh is often placed in increments of 5 cm. Pipes are also tied to it - with wire or plastic clamps. If expanded polystyrene was used, you can do without reinforcement - you can fasten it with special plastic brackets, which are driven into the material. For other insulation materials, reinforcing mesh is required.
- Beacons are installed on top, after which the screed is poured. Its thickness is less than 3 cm above the level of the pipes.
- Next, the finished floor covering is laid. Any suitable for use in a heated floor system.
These are all the main layers that need to be laid when you make a water-heated floor with your own hands.
Pipes for heated floors and installation schemes
The main element of the system is pipes. Most often they use polymer ones - made of cross-linked polyethylene or metal-plastic. They bend well and have a long service life. Their only obvious drawback is their not very high thermal conductivity. The recently introduced corrugated stainless steel pipes do not have this disadvantage. They bend better, cost no more, but due to their lack of popularity, they are not yet used often.
The diameter of the pipes for heated floors depends on the material, but usually it is 16-20 mm. They are stacked according to several schemes. The most common are spiral and snake; there are several modifications that take into account some of the features of the premises.
Laying with a snake is the simplest, but as the coolant passes through the pipes it gradually cools down and reaches the end of the circuit much colder than it was at the beginning. Therefore, the zone where the coolant enters will be the warmest. This feature is used - installation begins from the coldest zone - along the outer walls or under the window.
The double snake and spiral are almost free of this drawback, but they are more difficult to install - you need to draw a diagram on paper so as not to get confused during installation.
Screed
Can be used to fill a water heated floor using a regular cement-sand mortar based on Portland cement. The grade of Portland cement should be high - M-400, or better yet M-500. - not lower than M-350.
But ordinary “wet” screeds take a very long time to gain their design strength: at least 28 days. You can’t turn on the heated floor all this time: cracks will appear that can even break the pipes. Therefore, so-called semi-dry screeds are increasingly being used - with additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, significantly reducing the amount of water and the time for “aging”. You can add them yourself or look for dry mixtures with the appropriate properties. They cost more, but there is less hassle with them: according to the instructions, add the required amount of water and mix.
It’s possible to make a water heated floor with your own hands, but it will take a decent amount of time and a lot of money.
Warm floors have become available to every home owner; such floors are especially relevant in private properties. It's nice to feel the warming warmth on your feet on a cold winter evening. And how great it is when a baby, who has just learned to crawl or is trying to walk, can stay on the floor for hours without the risk of catching a cold.
It is useful for every man who has his hands and head in place to know how to properly make a water-heated floor with his own hands, and our instructions with video will help with this.
The following other points count in favor of underfloor heating:
- savings during operation up to 45%;
- the ability to avoid installing radiators, which allows for better use of room space;
- The finishing coating is suitable from any material;
- the air warms up more evenly, there are no drafts;
- The comfort of being in a space heated by thermal radiation is much higher than with radiator heating.
However, there are also disadvantages, which include pressure drop in the heating system due to the coolant being diverted to underfloor heating, as well as the inability to quickly find and repair a leak in the event of an accident.
In any case, the main argument in favor of underfloor heating is opportunity to improve living comfort with significant cost savings.
Design and main features of the installation
The principle of constructing a water-heated floor is as follows: pipelines are connected to the heating boiler or central heating system, through which hot water is supplied to a system of pipes laid in spirals over the ceilings, and the challenge given thermal energy water is carried out through the return pipeline again to heating system.
Work should be performed in the following sequence:
- surface leveling, waterproofing (protection against leaks), thermal insulation, laying reinforcing mesh over a layer of foil;
- laying pipes using one of the methods (snake or spiral);
- arrangement of distribution units;
- connection to the boiler or heating system of pipes for hot water supply and return pipeline;
- pressure testing and installation of shut-off valves;
- system testing;
- pouring pipes into rooms with mortar (concrete) or laying them with boards;
- installation of a clean floor covering.
You should start laying a water heated floor with your own hands by installing a screed that levels the surface of the base horizontally. Further be sure to provide a waterproofing layer to prevent soaking of the underlying rooms in case of pipe damage and water leakage from the system.
Polyethylene film or special waterproofing materials can be used as protection against moisture.
The thermal insulation layer needs to be given Special attention . In the basement or first floor, heat loss constitutes a significant proportion, therefore the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be at least 20-25 cm. On the second and higher floors, a layer 50 mm thick is sufficient.
The following can serve as insulation:
- expanded polystyrene;
- mineral wool;
- glass wool;
- technical plug;
- basalt slabs, etc.
IN retail outlets can be purchased special insulation with recesses for laying pipes, these plates will help reduce operating time and reduce labor costs.
Insulation Be sure to cover with a layer of foil, which serves as a heat reflector and increases heat transfer. It is advisable to take a serious approach to reinforcing the base for pipes, since in a year or two the insulation will bend in places, or even completely crumble, and all the work will go down the drain.
The screed is poured with a thickness of 50-60 mm, material - mortar grades 100-150 or cast concrete M-300, but certainly with the addition of plasticizers, which prevents cracking.
When heated, the mass of the screed will expand, and to avoid cracks it is necessary to make an expansion joint; most convenient for this leave a gap of 1-1.5 cm around the perimeter, which should be filled with elastic material. Instead, before starting work, it is recommended to glue damper tape around the perimeter.
A niche in the wall is knocked out with dimensions of approximately 60x40x10 cm, depending on the number of pipelines that will be located there. There are ready-made boxes on sale, specially designed for such cases, with a set of everything necessary.
Selection of coating, pipes and other materials
You should choose a coating depending on the purpose of the premises: in the bathroom, toilet and laundry room it is preferable ceramic tile, in the hallway there is linoleum, in the living room laminate would be a good choice, for the bedroom and kitchen you can choose any of the materials according to the hostess’s preference.
By technical specifications any floor covering is suitable, and the screed that has gained strength will be an excellent basis for a final coating.
The situation is somewhat different; you should choose durable, light and elastic materials. This polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene.
When choosing polypropylene you need to pay attention to pipes,, then the high degree of expansion of this material when heated is not terrible.
Polyethylene pipes have significantly lower coefficient of linear expansion, for this reason, many experts prefer to choose them.
Pipes are sold in coils or coils; with this form of release, they are conveniently laid out on floor surfaces. Diameters are usually used in the range of 16-20 mm, and there are two more conditions for their suitability: the ability to withstand a water temperature of 95 °C and a water pressure of 10B.
ABOUT comparative characteristics cast iron radiators heating read .
Calculation and distribution of pipes
Apply pipes with diameters 16, 20 or 25 mm. Using a pipe with a smaller diameter will result in impaired water circulation. By measuring the pressure in the heating pipe using a hydromanometer, you can find out the pressure in the system.
Too large a diameter of pipes for laying in a floor pie will lead to decrease in operating pressure and temperature drop.
Another characteristic of the material is its need, for which the length is calculated. Pipes can be laid in one of the following ways: snake or spiral (snail). DIY installation diagrams for a heated water floor look like this:
In the first case, significant differences in temperature are possible in certain areas of the area, the spiral gives better heat distribution. This layout method involves alternating direct and reverse supply of coolant.
On a sheet of graph paper or a squared notebook you should draw a sketch of the room on a scale of 1:50 or 1:100 and draw pipe routes, and the beginning should be at the riser closest to the window. The first row is laid 25 cm from the walls.
The pipe pitch is taken to be 25-50 cm(25 cm – with a diameter of 16 mm, 30-40 cm – with Ф20 mm, 40-50 cm – with Ф25 mm).
The length is measured on the sketch, a conversion factor is applied to the scale and the required size is obtained. To connect to the riser you should add 2-2.5 meters.
For each circuit, you need to buy pipe footage in one piece, since joining is unacceptable. One collector is made for several rooms, or for the entire floor.
Selecting and connecting the collector and boiler
When it is clear how many circuits will be connected to the collector, you can begin to select its length and decide on the number of valves, but also take into account that in order to be able to regulate the warm coating mode you will need a pressure sensor, air vents, drains.
The manifold with its lower pipe must be located at the same level as the supply pipeline, slightly above floor level.
There are specially developed plumbing standards for the assembly of this unit. It is best to hide the collector in a niche in the wall, approximately in the middle in relation to all contours.
The boiler is selected based on its power sufficient to heat water, plus a certain power reserve. Determine the total power required as follows: 20% should be added to the sum of the circuit powers for reserve.
For greater efficiency of the system, it is advisable to install a circulation pump; in most boiler models, the pump is already included in the kit, capable of provide hot water one-two-story house with an area of 120-140 m2. For large areas, additional pumps are needed.
Pipe installation and coating technology
For fixing pipes, there are excellent devices - plastic tracks, representing combs. They are used as guides, and for more reliable fastening, special tightening elements are also used.
It must be remembered that the pipe must maintain its integrity, therefore sharp bends leading to creases are unacceptable(For plastic pipes The bending radius can be at least 5-8 diameters). If the path to the collector passes through a partition or through a wall, then holes must be drilled.
The procedure and technology for installing a water heated floor with your own hands is presented in this video:
After finishing laying the pipes and connecting them to the collector, installing the boiler and all plumbing work, filling with mortar or concrete is unacceptable without conducting a hydraulic test of the system operation.
The pipes are filled with water, the pressure is raised to a level of 6 B and maintained for 24 hours. If everything is in order and there are no fistulas or breaks, then they are filled with cast mortar or concrete.
When screeding, pipes must be filled with water and under pressure, this is necessary to avoid crushing and squeezing of the pipes.
For ceramic floors, the screed is made thicker, from 30 to 50 mm, for laminate and linoleum - no more than 30 mm, with the laying of another plastic mesh. Thus, the thickness of the cake will allow the coating to warm up quickly.
Making water floors with your own hands is quite possible, but for a truly long-term service of underfloor heating, a project or at least It is better to order sketches and calculations from a heating engineer, who will take into account all the fittings, equipment, materials down to the smallest detail and fulfill the specification.
Doing such serious work yourself will save significant money and increase the owner’s self-esteem.
Do you want to make your home cozy, modern and warm? Pay attention to the warm water floor. In this article we will describe in detail all its advantages and disadvantages, tell you how to select pipes and lay them, and describe the layout of the collector and control system.
Advantages and disadvantages of water heated floors. Preparing the base. Installation nuances. Selection of pipes, methods of laying them, frequency of turns and fixation options. Screed and ripening time.
Design and principle of operation
A water heated floor is a room heating system in which the coolant circulates along a circuit located under the floor covering. Please note that the pipes are not always screeded. There are “decking systems” in which the contour is not poured with concrete.
Upon closer examination, the water heated floor cake consists of the following elements:
- Prepared base;
- Screed (5 cm);
- Thermal insulator (5 cm);
- Pipes (2 cm);
- Screed (4 cm);
- Floor covering (2 cm).
Depending on the pipes used, there may be several layers of waterproofing. The base is the subfloor in basement or on the first floor of a private house. The first layer of screed is required precisely in the absence of a flat surface.
A 5 cm thick thermal insulator is a standard solution. But if possible, it is better to increase the thickness to 10 cm. This increases the efficiency of the entire system by 10-15%. Especially if the water-heated floor is installed on the first floor. The best material for this layer is extruded polystyrene foam.
Pipes in the vast majority of water heated floors are used with a diameter of 16 mm.
The second layer of screed covers the entire system and serves as a giant heat accumulator.
The thickness of the water heated floor cake varies from 18 to 23 cm. And the mass of 1 m 2 of this system reaches a quarter of a ton! Such harsh conditions significantly limit the spread of water-heated floors.
The circuit is connected to the pump and boiler through an adjustment and control system.
Where can I use it?
Due to the sufficient thickness and mass of the entire system, its use is limited to private housing construction. It is extremely irrational to install water-heated floors in apartments.
The main reason is difficulties with connecting the power. You can connect to the central heating system only after permission from the regulatory authorities. And it is almost impossible to get it. Even if it exists, the main leitmotif – autonomy – will disappear. We know of options for installing electric and even gas boilers in an apartment, but these are isolated cases that only confirm the rule: water heated floors are used only in private homes.
Advantages and disadvantages
The advantages of water heated floors are fully revealed only when using cheap energy resources, such as gas, coal, firewood. Heating the coolant with an electric boiler is approximately 7 times more expensive than using gas equipment.
The gigantic heat capacity of the water heated floor system is another plus. A room containing ≈ 100 kg/m2 of heated concrete cannot cool down quickly (only the top layer of screed is taken into account).
But there are also disadvantages. First of all, this is monstrous inertia. It takes time and energy to warm up such a layer of screed.
Inertia leads to the fact that temperature control of a water heated floor is very conditional. Control equipment takes temperature readings from the coolant, floor surface and air (in some thermostats). But the changes made through the thermostat appear very slowly.
Installation of water heated floor
The task is quite difficult, but doable. You just need to level the base first. This is very important requirement, taking into account that leveling will still be required and it is more effective to do this with the first layer of screed. Why?
For example, the height difference in a room is 3 cm. If you immediately lay the pipe and only then level it with a screed, it will turn out that in one corner the height cement mixture there will be a minimum of 4 cm, and in the other 7. This means that during the operation of heated floors, on one side they will warm up 4 and on the other 7 cm of concrete. Such an uneven load has a very detrimental effect on the entire system as a whole and leads to rapid deterioration of the floor covering.
Therefore, the first and important step is to level the floors to the horizon level. To prepare concrete floors you will need:
- Beacon profile;
- Laser level;
- Construction square;
- 5-10 kg of gypsum;
- Primer;
- Mobile concrete mixer;
- Cement;
- Polypropylene fiber.
Work progress:
The floors are swept and primed. While the soil dries, beacons are set up. To do this, install in the middle of the room laser level in such a way that the projection of the horizontal beam is at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. Then, using a square, measure the height from the floor to the beam in different corners of the room and, based on the results, determine the highest point. In this place, the height of the screed will be the minimum allowable - 4 cm. In other places - according to need.
To install beacons, gypsum is diluted to a thick sour cream state. Then small piles are made from the resulting mass along one wall, in increments of 60-80 cm, and a beacon profile is laid on them. By placing a square on it, level it with the horizon, placing it at the desired height. There should be 50 cm from the wall to the first beacon. Between adjacent beacons the distance varies depending on the length of the rule (guide by 1-1.3 m). Please note that the plaster sets quickly, the work is carried out “without a smoke break”.
After about 30-40 m, you can pour the screed. Cement is diluted with ASG in a ratio of 1:5. Polypropylene fiber is added at the rate of 80 g. per 100 liters of mixture. Fiber is an element of dispersed reinforcement, qualitatively increasing the strength of the coating. In addition, after hardening, the new surface will be perfectly smooth.
Pour the resulting mixture so that each subsequent portion overlaps the previous one by 10-15 cm. The level of the screed is leveled according to the rule, with orientation along the beacons.
After filling the entire surface, time is required for the technical maturation of the cement-sand screed. Calculation is approximately the next 1 cm of thickness – 1 week.
Laying the heat insulator
Extruded polystyrene foam and cross-linked polyethylene foam, only these two materials can be used for thermal insulation in a water heated floor system.
Before laying the heat insulation sheets, a damper tape 10-12 mm thick is glued around the perimeter of the room. It serves not only to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed, but also to prevent heat from escaping into the walls. In height, it should protrude beyond the boundaries of the top layer of the screed.
The heat insulation sheets are laid out staggered and always on top of the waterproofing layer. For waterproofing, it is best to use polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.2 mm.
If you decide to make the thermal insulation thickness 10 cm, then it will be better if you lay two layers of slabs 5 cm thick. Be sure to have a spacing between the layers.
There is an option to use special slabs designed for organizing water-heated floors as a heat insulator. Their difference is in the bosses on one of the surfaces. A pipe is laid between these bosses. But their cost is unreasonably high. In addition, not all pipes will be supported in such slabs. For example, polypropylene and polyethylene pipes are too elastic and will require additional fixation.
The pipes are not attached to the heat insulator. The fastener must pass through the foam layer and be fixed in the screed. This is a very labor-intensive process considering the amount of work involved.
Mounting tapes are a more acceptable solution, but it is very difficult to lay a pipe on them in a spiral (snail).
The best option would be to fix the pipes on the mesh. In this case, the mesh will serve specifically for fastening pipes, and not for reinforcing the screed.
There are special meshes made of biaxially oriented polypropylene, or you can use a simple masonry mesh.
Selection of pipes and their installation
The following types of pipes are suitable for water heated floors:
- Copper;
- Polypropylene;
- Polyethylene PERT and PEX;
- Metal-plastic;
- Corrugated stainless steel.
They have their own strengths and weaknesses.
| Characteristic Material |
Radius | Heat transfer | Elasticity | Electrical conductivity | Life time* | Price for 1 m.** | Comments |
| Polypropylene | Ø 8 | Low | High | No | 20 years | 22 RUR | They bend only with heat. Frost-resistant. |
| Polyethylene PERT/PEX | Ø 5 | Low | High | No | 20/25 years | 36/55 RUR | Can't withstand overheating. |
| Metal-plastic | Ø 8 | Below the average | No | No | 25 years | 60 RUR | Bending only with special equipment. Not frost-resistant. |
| Copper | Ø3 | High | No | Yes, requires grounding | 50 years | 240 RUR | Good electrical conductivity may cause corrosion. Grounding required. |
| Corrugated stainless steel | Ø 2.5-3 | High | No | Yes, requires grounding | 30 years | 92 RUR |
Note:
* pipe characteristics are considered when operating in water-heated floors.
** Prices are taken from Yandex.market.
The choice is very difficult if you try to save on yourself. Of course, you don’t have to consider copper ones - they’re very expensive. But corrugated stainless steel, with more high price, has exceptionally good heat dissipation. The difference in temperature in the return and supply is the largest. This means that they give off heat better than their competitors. Considering the small bending radius, ease of operation and high performance characteristics, this is the most worthy choice.
Pipe laying is possible in a spiral and snake. Each option has pros and cons:
- Snake - simple installation, almost always a “zebra effect” is observed.
- Snail – uniform heating, material consumption increases by 20%, installation is more labor-intensive and painstaking.
But these methods can be combined within one circuit. For example, along the walls “facing” the street, the pipe is laid in a snake pattern, and in the rest of the area in a snail pattern. You can also change the frequency of turns.
There are generally accepted standards that professionals are guided by:
- Step – 20 cm;
- The length of the pipe in one circuit is no more than 120 m;
- If there are several contours, then their length should be the same.
It is better not to install pipes under stationary and large-sized interior items. For example, under a gas stove.
IMPORTANT: be sure to draw the installation diagram to scale.
Laying begins from the collector. Unwinding the coil, fix the pipe according to the diagram. It is convenient to use plastic clamps for fastening.
Corrugated stainless steel is produced in coils of 50 m. To connect it, proprietary couplings are used.
The last element laid between the turns of pipes is a temperature sensor. It is pushed into a corrugated pipe, the end of which is capped and tied to a mesh. The distance from the wall is at least 0.5 m. Don't forget: 1 circuit - 1 temperature sensor. The other end of the corrugated pipe is led out to the wall and then along the shortest path is brought to the thermostat.
Control system and circuit testing
The control system for water heated floors includes:
- Pump;
- Boiler;
- Collector;
- Thermostat.
The arrangement of all elements in compliance with technical parameters is a very complex thermal engineering task. A lot of parameters are taken into account, starting from the number of fittings and the length of pipes, and ending with the thickness of the walls and the region of the country. In general terms, you can focus on the following data:
- The pump can only be used as a circulation pump. The “wet” type of pump is more reliable than the “Dry” type and less demanding to maintain.
To calculate performance, use the following formula:
P = 0.172 x W.
Where W is the power of the heating system.
For example, with a system power of 20 kW, the pump capacity should be 20 x 0.172 = 3.44 m 3 /h. Round the result up.
The pressure is calculated using a more complex technique. After all, the pipes are located horizontally, and the pump characteristics show vertical pressure. Use the following formula: H = (L * K) + Z/10. Where L is the total length of the circuits, K is the pressure loss coefficient due to friction (indicated in the pipe passport, converted to MPa), Z is the pressure reduction coefficient in additional elements
Z 1 – 1.7 thermostat valve;
Z 2 – 1.2 mixer;
Z 3 – 1.3 valves and fittings.
Using an example, it looks like this, let’s say there are 3 circuits, 120 m each. In total there are 18 fittings, 3 thermostat valves, 1 mixer. Pipe – corrugated stainless steel ø16 mm, loss coefficient 0.025 MPa.
H = (120*3*0.025) + ((1.7 * 3) + (1.3 * 1) + (1.2 * 18))/10 = 9 + (5.1 + 1.3 + 21 .6)/10 = 11.8 m. The result is rounded up - the pump head is 12 m.
- The boiler power is calculated using the formula W = S * 0.1. Where S is the area of the house. There are also a lot of correction factors, depending on the thickness and material of the walls of the house, the climate of the region, the number of floors, and the presence of adjacent rooms.
Please note that the outlet water temperature should be more than 30 - 35˚C. To withstand this temperature, a mixer is installed in front of the collector. In it, water is mixed to the desired temperature before entering the circuit.
- The collector regulates the water supply in each circuit. Without it, the water will follow the path of least resistance to flow, that is, along the shortest circuit. The adjustment is carried out by servo drives, according to data from the thermostat.
- Thermostats monitor the temperature in controlled rooms by taking readings from temperature sensors.
Before crimping the circuit, it is washed and only then connected to the manifold. Water is supplied at normal pressure, but the temperature is increased by 4˚C per hour, up to 50˚C. In this mode, the system should function for 60-72 hours. IMPORTANT: constant monitoring is required during crimping!
At home, without use special equipment, it is impossible to pressurize with high pressure.
If the inspection does not reveal any installation flaws, then you can proceed to further operations.
Screed
IMPORTANT: the top layer of screed is poured only when the contour is filled. But before that, metal pipes grounded and covered with thick plastic film. This is an important condition to prevent corrosion due to electrochemical interactions of materials.
The issue of reinforcement can be solved in two ways. The first is to place a masonry mesh on top of the pipe. But with this option, cracks may appear due to shrinkage.
Another method is dispersed fiber reinforcement. When pouring water-heated floors, steel fiber is best suited. Added in an amount of 1 kg/m 3 of solution, it will be evenly distributed throughout the entire volume and will qualitatively increase the strength of hardened concrete. Polypropylene fiber is much less suitable for the top layer of screed, because the strength characteristics of steel and polypropylene do not even compete with each other.
Install the beacons and mix the solution according to the above recipe. The thickness of the screed must be at least 4 cm above the surface of the pipe. Considering that the pipe ø is 16 mm, the total thickness will reach 6 cm. The maturation time of such a layer of cement screed is 1.5 months. IMPORTANT: It is unacceptable to speed up the process including floor heating! This is a complex chemical reaction to form " cement stone", which occurs in the presence of water. And heating will cause it to evaporate.
You can speed up the maturation of the screed by including special additives in the recipe. Some of them cause complete hydration of cement within 7 days. And besides this, they significantly reduce shrinkage.
You can determine the readiness of the screed by placing a roll on the surface toilet paper, and cover it with a saucepan. If the ripening process is over, then in the morning the paper will be dry.
First start
A very important stage in the operation of a water heated floor. To prevent the screed from cracking due to uneven heating and the pipes from being damaged, switching on is carried out according to the following scheme:
1 day – temperature 20˚C.
Day 2 – increase the temperature by 3˚C.
3 and the next day, raise the temperature by 4 ˚C until the operating mode is reached.
Only after this can you proceed to the installation of the floor covering.
Comfort and coziness in the house during the cold season depends on the temperature conditions of the room. Poorly heated apartments and cold floors create a threat of colds for family members. One of the means to maintain a stable temperature in a living space is heated floors. Not always and not everyone has enough Money to call specialists to install them. It is important to learn how to make a water-heated floor with your own hands. Today we will tell you about it.
What is a warm water floor?
Water heated floor - a whole system modern heating, replacing radiators.
Water floor heating schemes
The simplest installation layout is snake.
Pipes are routed from the collector in the form of loops, covering the entire area of the room. Each loop goes from one wall to another, replacing the previous one. This method allows you to completely warm up only part of the room. Hot water comes only from that side. As it passes through the entire heating system, it loses heat. A cooled pipeline does not sufficiently warm up the part of the room remote from the coolant.
The design of a water heated floor with a snake in a private house is a labor-intensive process. Temperature changes in double snake are reduced, but installation remains labor-intensive.
The most famous method of laying pipes is a spiral, otherwise known as a snail. It evenly heats all rooms in the house.
Spiral covers the entire perimeter of the room, starting from the edges gradually approaching the center, and then from the center in the opposite direction. A pitch of 10 mm avoids thermal pits. Installation using this method is quite easy and can be done by one person without an assistant.
Snail It is convenient because the bending of the pipes in it is insignificant. A spiral can be made in any part of the room, going around difficult places. It can insulate the cold spaces of the room - at the outer walls, at the entrance to the veranda. An advantage of this scheme will be the possibility of establishing any pitch between the pipes.
There is a combined method of laying pipes - combination of snake and spiral. The snake can be installed, for example, at the entrance, where special heat is not required, and the snail can be installed in the central part of the room to create thermal comfort
Stages of installation of warm water floors
Stage 1 – installation of the technological unit in the manifold cabinet.
Stage 2
– floor preparation.
The floor surface must be horizontal without unevenness. Exceeding the level is allowed only by 5 mm. If the surface is uneven, then you need to make an additional concrete screed. We remove debris from the base with a powerful vacuum cleaner, then seal the cracks and crevices with cement.
Stage 3
– laying damper tape.
It is necessary in order to separate the heating plate from the walls, to prevent heat loss and to compensate for temperature deformations. Tape thickness 5-8 mm, height 15 mm. The tape must be laid around the perimeter so that after the screed and finishing coating it protrudes above them. At the end construction work the edge of the tape protruding above the surface of the finishing installation is cut off.
Stage 4 – We put a layer of thermal insulation, which will prevent heat loss from the circuits.
Expanded polystyrene or penoplex is used as a material for waterproofing. It also serves as a basis for laying pipes. Expanded polystyrene mats are overlapped on top of each other, inserted into the grooves. If the coating is exposed to moisture from below, then a vapor barrier is laid under these slabs. Thermal insulation can also be ordinary polyethylene film. You can use multifoil. Then a reinforcing mesh should be placed on top of the heat-insulating material, to which the contours are attached using plastic clamps, steel wire, stapler and fixer. An excellent way to attach pipes to reinforcing mesh is a PVC strip.
Stage 5 – a do-it-yourself water heated floor for a private house also involves laying pipes.
The pipes are laid in a snake or snail pattern. The segments between them (step) are laid out in accordance with the design documentation. From correct installation The efficiency of the heating will depend. The contours should be no more than 60-90m. If the room is large, then several more contours should be laid. It is important that they are the same length, from a single piece, otherwise the seal will be broken.
We cut off the ends of the pipes and attach them to the collectors. Tighten the Eurocone fitting with a wrench.
Stage 6 – check the heating system for leaks.
To do this, you need to fill the system with water under pressure. The pressure should be several times higher than usual, but not less than 0.6 MPa. This pressure should be maintained for 30 minutes. The next hydraulic test already takes 2 hours, and the pressure rises to 1 MPa.
Stage 7 – if the pressure testing was successful, then you need to pour the concrete screed. It hardens in about 28 days.
Screed for heated water floors
The screed is a cement-sand mortar with the addition of a plasticizer.
The modifier can be liquid or dry.
The dry plasticizer is diluted with water 1:2. The modifier helps remove excess liquid, making the solution plastic and homogeneous.
A screed in a warm water field protects pipes from external influence, prevents depressurization of pipes. It has good heat transfer: receiving heat from the pipes, it transfers it to the air in the room.
Types of coating
Water-heated floors are used mainly under tiles and porcelain stoneware.
These floor coverings heat up quickly and do not emit harmful substances. They are durable, do not undergo deformation, and will last a long time. Wide design solution will make the tiles a beautiful floor covering to suit your taste.
You can also use other materials: laminate, PVC tiles, linoleum, carpet.
You just need to take into account the features of these materials and listen to the advice of experts on using them as floor coverings for a heating system.
Tree at elevated temperature is drying out. Therefore, there is no need to warm up the circuits above 27 degrees.
Thermal and sound insulating linoleum will not allow heat to pass through. Thermal conductivity is greater the thinner the linoleum. In addition, you need to take into account that small particles may get into it, which will be felt by your bare feet. Therefore, it is advisable to lay it by professionals. If you take on the linoleum coating yourself, do it carefully so that Decoration Materials lay down straight.
Chipboard, plywood or gypsum fiber board are laid on top of the pipes.
Laminate used as a floor covering in a heated water field has high thermal conductivity. The thinner its layer, the faster and more heat it gives off. This floor heats up faster, creating comfortable conditions for those living in the house.
Parquet is less reliable because it is exposed to high temperatures and pressure changes. This is a capricious material, so it requires careful care and sufficient moisture.
Cost of water heated floor
The price for a water-heated floor is on average 1500-3000 per sq. m. m. This price is made up of the cost of all materials: pipes, fasteners, insulating material, boiler, pump, manifold cabinet, floor installation work.
Water electric heaters are a system consisting of pipes of 20 mm diameter. There is a heating cable inside them. The antifreeze coolant is static and does not move, so a pump, boiler, or manifold are not needed.
Installed in a screed. Operating principle: when the power is turned on, the coolant heats up. When antifreeze heats up, pressure increases, promoting rapid and uniform heat distribution.
So, we told you about the warm water floor system with our own hands, and touched a little on electric floors. We hope that after reading the article, you have learned a lot of important and useful information about this system and will be able to buy a water heated floor and install it yourself.