Anyone who seriously engages in woodworking knows how important it is to have a good router. However, it is not at all necessary to pay exorbitant sums for this instrument - it is quite possible to make it yourself. How to do this will be discussed in this article.
A well-made router table significantly increases the efficiency of working with a hand router. However, buying them can cost a pretty penny, because it will be much easier to make such a table yourself, using special drawings for this. This will allow you to save a lot of money and, moreover, the process will not take too much time. There are several types of milling tables: stationary, adaptive and portable. In this article we will talk about the stationary option, because it is the most difficult to implement. This means that having learned how to make it, other types of milling cutters can be made without difficulty.
Selection of drawings and materials
Before starting any work, you should decide what kind of result you want to get. The easiest way would be to make a milling table based on a regular workbench, but it is better to make a separate structure. But if you still take an ordinary table for this purpose, then it must be very strong and stable. It is also important to choose the right dimensions: for example, the optimal height is approximately 90-100 cm. An even better solution would be a table with an adjustable height, because this will allow you to adjust milling machine according to the needs of the master. General view elements of the milling table can be seen below.
As for materials, there are also subtleties here. Often the covers for such a table are made from MDF board. In general, this is justified: they are inexpensive, lightweight and easy to use. Phenolic plastic is also a popular material - it is stronger and more durable than MDF. But also more expensive - by about 20%. You can make a tabletop from a sheet of metal. One thing is important - the surface must be absolutely smooth, since the workpieces must move easily across the table surface without clinging or getting stuck anywhere. The thickness of the cover should not exceed 35 mm.
Tools for work you will need:
- Electric drill.
- Chisel.
- Grinding machine. In principle, sanding can be done manually using sandpaper, but it will take much more time.
- Plane.
- Screwdriver.
- Jigsaw.
As you can see, both the materials and tools for making a milling table are not so difficult to get. But it is extremely important that everything is of high quality, because the durability and reliability of the product directly depends on this.
Table manufacturing stages
When everything preparatory work completed, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of the product. Everything is done in several stages. They will be listed below.
There are some nuances associated with the implementation of each of the points. However, anyone who has experience working with wood products will be able to make a router table. It is only important to pay close attention to the task at hand.
How to make a router yourself + (Video)
Most people prefer to buy ready-made tools, but some of them can be made with their own hands. A manual router is also one of these. Of course, we are not talking about assembling from scratch - this takes a lot of time. But the router can be made from another, simpler and cheaper tool. For example, from a drill. You can also make this tool from a grinder or a hammer drill. It is optimal to take a device with a power of 600 to 1000 W (it could be “Fiolent” or something like that). The entire structure will consist of a motor (that is, the drill itself) and a frame in which it will be fixed. Exactly how the process will take place will be discussed below.
Milling cutter manufacturing process
The first step is to make a frame into which you will then need to install a drill. It is cut out of a chipboard, then a special iron clamp is installed on top for additional fixation. The parts of the structure are fastened together with self-tapping screws. The cutter is clamped into the drill chuck. To make the structure sufficiently stable, the frame is attached to the tabletop using self-tapping screws. Of course, even with seemingly good fixation, the drill may wobble in the frame, which will lead to wooden parts, processed on such a router will look sloppy. A good solution would be to place the rotary lever on the side rather than on top - in this case, the motor will be less loose during operation.
Of course, this solution also has certain disadvantages. For example, this homemade device not suitable for long-term work: with constant use it will quickly fail. And due to the low power, it is difficult to process wood using such a tool hard rocks. But a router made from a drill will be inexpensive, it is easy to use, and even a beginner can assemble it. That's why this design is used quite often.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that you should not be afraid to make woodworking tools yourself: expensive factory equipment will undoubtedly be better in some ways, but sometimes availability and low price plays a much larger role. Especially when it comes to products where it is not necessary to adhere to high precision. Such a self-assembled product is ideal for those who are just learning to work with wood, but sometimes it can also help out more experienced craftsmen.
When purchasing a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks for it and the scope of work to be performed. Therefore, the master, thinking about buying, tries to find universal option, combine the precision of machining on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.
In this article we will look at a compromise option - a table for hand router with your own hands, drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.
To make a milling table with your own hands, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or bought ready-made option, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.
The working process of a hand milling cutter consists of moving the tool along the plane of the workpiece. If the router is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then the manual machine becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.
It is preferable to perform a number of milling operations only in a stationary position - cutting out grooves and grooves, various methods of processing the edges of products and laying tenon joints.
The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location. It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.
Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands. The design of a portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual router from a structure, and remount it after the job is completed.
Basic elements of a milling table
Let's consider an option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to make with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.
It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:
- bed;
- table top;
- mounting plate;
- longitudinal stop;
- pressing combs.
bed
You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (trimmings plywood sheet, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes). We will put together a bed for the machine from boards or use old table, nightstand. 
Anything that will allow you to react firmly and steadily to the vibration of the milling machine and will serve as the supporting structure of the machine will do.
When making a machine bed with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself. Only by taking into account the characteristics of the operator (height, arm length, etc.) will the work process take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.
For work surface Convenient to use kitchen countertop. But this option is relevant if you changed kitchen furniture and the old tabletop lies idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.
The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a durable and reliable table for a hand router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the feeding of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.
The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed; the width of the tabletop changes, but the depth and thickness remain unchanged. The picture shows a table top with dimensions suitable for most jobs. Compliance with dimensions is not mandatory; each master changes them to suit specific conditions and requirements.
A hole is cut in the center of the tabletop for attaching a milling machine. The dimensions of this hole are larger than the seat plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded to install the mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the rebate is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the surface of the table.
For greater machine functionality and part processing capabilities different sizes grooves are selected in the tabletop. They install a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.
The mounting plate is necessary to attach the router to the table. It is made from durable materials such as: metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used for fastening. To make it easier to control the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.
The plate should fit tightly into its seat on the machine table top. Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over mounting the router directly on bottom part countertops. The small thickness of the plate increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter used. The diameter of cutters varies from 3 mm to 76 mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with replaceable rings to change the hole for the cutter.
When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required that guides the workpiece along the table. The result of the work done with your own hands will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the tabletop. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.
A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction. Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working element, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.
Longitudinal stop (front view) 
Longitudinal stop (rear view) 
To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.
The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure. Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the comb moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.
The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves lengthwise and crosswise in a horizontal plane.
- If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table yourself, with the help of which you can adjust the comfortable height for work.
- To ensure durability of the equipment, the wooden parts of the milling table are coated with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
- Mount safety glass on a longitudinal support that will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
- Use gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
- Do not wear loose-fitting clothes.
- Use manual milling machines with a rated power of more than 1100 W.
- Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 the length of the shank.
Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:
- before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
- do not apply much force when milling (too strong a feed will damage the tool);
- install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank, but not tightly, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
- when using large diameter cutters, reduce the rotation speed;
- disconnect the tool from the power supply before performing adjustments and maintenance;
- Monitor the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged ones.
Milling table for a hand router with your own hands
One of the main assistants of a carpenter is a wood router. This hand tool is indispensable when it is necessary to:
- cut a groove;
- make a groove;
- make a tenon connection;
- process edges, etc.
However, when performing some carpentry work, use this tool not always convenient due to the fact that you need to simultaneously hold the workpiece and operate the router. Therefore, many craftsmen resort to tricks by making a milling table for a hand router. With a table that is a reliable addition to your milling tool, you can achieve wooden elements the quality and accuracy are in no way inferior to joinery products made in professional furniture workshops on milling machines.
A homemade table for a manual router significantly increases the productivity of the tool and facilitates processing work wooden products. It is not difficult to make such equipment, and, in addition, unlike a standard milling table produced by various manufacturers, this table will have the dimensions, design and options chosen directly by the craftsman who makes it.
To perform any engineering work, and equipment manufacturing is one of these, it is necessary to draw up a sketch of the future machine. On it you need to indicate your vision of the project indicating the actual dimensions. Based on the sketch, you can easily select materials for the manufacture of the future structure, their quantity, determine the construction budget and stock up on the tools necessary for processing machine parts.
Option 1. Instructions for making a table for a manual router
Materials for making a milling table
To build a milling table you will need:
- 4 square bars;
- chipboard and plywood scraps, the dimensions of which are determined when constructing the table drawing;
- hardware (nuts, bolts, screws, hinges, etc.);
- jack;
- metal profile;
- six-millimeter steel plate;
- aluminum guides;
- movable carriage-support (guide from the saw);
- hand router.
Drawing of a homemade milling table (option 1)
In any case, before you start making any such table, the drawing must be completed indicating all dimensions and determining the location of the working elements relative to each other.
Step by step assembly
Let us consider in detail each step in the manufacture and fastening of each element of a homemade milling table.
1st step. To make a stationary base for the table, you will need bars and chipboard cuttings, from which we twist the legs and further strengthen the rigidity with the help of horizontal connecting panels made of plywood. In the right side part we cut a hole for the start button, which will be connected to the hand router.
2nd step. The table top is made of chipboard. We make it liftable together with a router, for which we install hinges and make an additional support base from 15 mm plywood.
3rd step. To move the workpiece smoothly along the table, for example, to cut a groove in it, a moving carriage-stop is used. We cut a groove in the tabletop for the guides of the movable stop and install a metal profile into it. You can use a guide from an old saw as a stop carriage.
4th step. We also make the longitudinal stop from chipboard and make it movable to adjust the gaps around the cutter. To ensure mobility, we cut perpendicular grooves in the upper part of the stop and fasten the stop to the tabletop with clamps. We cut a small groove in the middle to suck out chips and other milling waste.
5th step. From thin plywood we make a box with a hole for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose, which will remove dust and shavings formed during the milling process. We fasten the box behind the perpendicular stop.
6th step. We take a six-millimeter steel plate and screw it to the tabletop flush with the surface. During the fastening process, we make sure that its edges do not protrude above the tabletop, otherwise the parts being processed will cling to them. A manual router will be attached to the plate from below.
7th step. We attach the router by the aluminum base to the bottom of the plate using bolts, but do not forget to pre-drill holes for the bolts in the base. Fastening hand tools to the removable plate, and not directly to the table, provides savings in milling depth and allows you to easily replace the cutter.
8th step. We are building a router lift. To do this, we use a car jack, which allows us to change the height of the cutter with maximum accuracy.
9th step. We remove the handles from the router and instead screw in aluminum guides, which we connect to the jack mechanism.
Design of a homemade milling table for a manual router
Before you start making a milling table, you need to accurately determine its design features. This article provides instructions on how to make a simple router table. For other first assembly options, see details below.
We check the reliability of fastening of all elements - and the milling table is ready with your own hands!
We offer several more models of wood milling machines made by yourself for your taste.
Option 2. Another milling table and other assembly features
We offer a table design for a router with a detailed analysis of its components.
Materials and tools.
In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- metal corner or pipe (for the frame);
- aluminum guide;
- axles for attaching the router;
- putty, primer and paint for metal;
- self-tapping screws; furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm;
- Hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts – 4 pcs. ;
- Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can use another material);
- boards or plywood scraps (for making a rip fence).
The following tools are also required:
- welding machine (for a metal table frame);
- drill and drill bits;
- screwdriver;
- jigsaw;
- milling cutter;
- spatula, brushes, rags.
Basic drawings
Design features of the milling table
An existing workbench can be adapted for a milling machine. But it is more expedient, to eliminate the influence of strong vibration during operation of the cutter, to make a separate structure that ensures the stability of the table.
The main loads during equipment operation are transferred to the base. Therefore, the frame must be reliable and stable. The bed is understood as a fixed base on which the router is located. It takes all the loads and is a structure in the form of a table with a fixed lid. It can be made from a metal pipe, angle, channel, wood, chipboard.
It is necessary to take into account that the router itself is attached to the tabletop from below, which means that there needs to be empty space there.
The router is attached to the table through a high-strength and rigid plate to perform installation work. It is preferable to make it from metal, textolite or tongue and groove board.
The base of the router has threaded mounting holes for mounting. If there are no threaded holes, threading is done independently. If the task is impossible, secure the milling device using special clamps.
Start the work by using a milling cutter to select the shape and thickness of the mounting plate. To make it easier, straight corners on the mounting plate must be rounded with a file. A recess in the table top ensures that the plate is flush with the tabletop.
Make a hole in the center of the plate for the tool to exit, drill holes for attaching the plate to the table. The next step is to drill holes to attach the milling device; keep in mind that the fasteners must be countersunk.
How to make a work surface and base
Making the base of the future milling table begins with the frame. For ease of work, the table cover should protrude 100-200 mm from the front part. Special attention When designing the frame of the bed, pay attention to the installation height of the working surface. This size is decisive for the convenience of working at the machine. According to ergonomic requirements, it should be 850-900 mm, depending on the person’s height. For convenient operation of the future milling machine, you can install height adjusters at the bottom of the support. This will allow, if necessary, to change the height of the table; if the floor is uneven, it will help to align the tabletop.
It will be useful as a working surface for a future machine kitchen countertop Soviet times. Most often it is made of 36 mm chipboard sheet covered with plastic. The wood-based material will reduce the vibrations that occur during the milling process, and the plastic coating will ensure excellent movement along the surface of the workpiece. If you don’t have an old countertop, use MDF or laminated chipboard with a thickness of at least 16 mm.
Choose a place for the future milling machine in your workshop; the dimensions and type of future design depend on this. This may be an aggregate machine located on the side circular saw, desktop version, or maybe a free-standing stationary machine.
If the use of a milling machine is not regular, reduced to one-time work from time to time, it is enough to make a small compact table.
You can make a milling machine yourself. It is a structure that fits on standard table. To work you will need a chipboard and two boards. Fasten two boards parallel to a sheet of chipboard. Attach one of them to the tabletop with bolts; it will serve as a guide and as a stop. Use the second one as a limiting stop. Cut a hole in the table top to accommodate the router. Attach the router to the table top using clamps. The compact milling machine is ready.
If your workshop has a lot free space, then make a full-fledged stationary milling machine. It will be more convenient to work on it than on the desktop version
Option 3. Cheap homemade router table
The sketch is ready. Materials have been purchased. The tool, laid out in its place in the workshop, is waiting for the moment to serve its owner. The master is also serious and is not going to grab everything at once. He will sort everything out and do everything step by step.
Start by making the frame of the future machine. You can use the following method for making a frame. Using a grinder, cut the 25×25 profile pipe to size, then weld the blanks intended for the frame on which the working surface will be located. Weld a pipe on one side along which the parallel stop will subsequently move. Weld 4 supports to the frame.
To fix the table top, frame the perimeter of the frame with a corner, then it will sit in the recess.
Use the second method of making a frame. It implies additional supports for the working surface. Weld stoppers in the middle of the table to milling equipment. The size between them should correspond to a convenient mounting of the router.
For structural stability, connect the lower supports with jumpers at a height of 200 mm from the floor.
Paint the resulting structure. Why prepare the surfaces: clean the metal pipes and degrease them with a solvent, then prime them. If there is a need to putty surfaces, apply a special putty mixture and apply primer. After complete drying, paint with PF-115 enamel.
Cut the working surface to the internal size of the frame, install it tightly into the corners. Then drill holes in the upper frame for fastening the table cover. Mark the tabletop itself, drill and securely connect it to the frame using furniture bolts. Table dimensions 850×600×900.
Step back 200-250 mm from the edge and cut a T-shaped guide along the length of the working surface.
Trim half of the milling axes. This will make it possible to almost double the distance from the sole to the guide axis, which in turn will expand the range of capabilities of the tool.
Remove the sole from the milling equipment, mark holes in the middle of the working surface of the table for its fastening and drill them. Drill a hole in the middle of the table cover for the device. On both sides of it, drill holes for attaching the clamps of the router axes.
On the underside of the tabletop, make a hole for the base of the router.
On both sides of the hole drilled through the hole, make grooves for installing the router axes. The size of the groove and the axis must match.
Along the edges of the grooves, using a Faustner drill (picture above), drill holes for the adjusting bolts for the hexagon.
Cut two pieces of pipe to fit the width of the large groove and drill holes in the center for the permanent bolts. They will serve as clamps for the axes of the milling device. Screw the nuts onto the bolts.
Install hexagon bolts and nuts on both sides of the axles to adjust the plane of the milling equipment.
Now make a rip fence. Take a small piece of plywood and cut a groove in it so that it can move along the pipe that was previously welded for this purpose. Using a jigsaw, cut three strips of identical size, where its length is equal to the sum of the length of the table and the width of the guide pipe and four plates for them in the form of stiffeners.
On strip No. 1, make a semicircular hole to remove wood waste. It should coincide with the slot in the working surface of the table. In strip #2, cut a square hole in the same location.
Cut strip No. 3 of plywood into equal parts. Attach one to the back of the square hole strip with bolts or guides. The plywood halves should move in opposite directions. Install an aluminum guide along the upper edge of this strip.
Fasten plates No. 1 and No. 2 together with the sides with half holes. Fasten two stiffening ribs along the edge of the resulting hole and two on the sides at a distance of 70-100 mm from the edge.
Cut a square of plywood to the size of the distance between the ribs, cut a hole in it the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. Attach the square to the stiffeners.
Secure the rip fence with clamps. This is done to make it easier to move the stop. If it is intended only for a milling machine, then secure it with brackets with grooves for movement.
Weld a bolt to a 6 mm thick metal strip. Make the clamps from wood with two grooves for two bolts.
Install the milling equipment: insert the cut axles into the side holes of the device, put nuts on them and secure the device with pipe clamps.
Turn the table over and use the hex key to lift up the router.
To make it easier to lift the router, it is advisable to install a lift based on a jack.
Option 4. Milling machine based on a desk
A milling machine based on a desk is considered an economical and convenient solution. The list of photo drawings contains a table with specifications of parts by size and recommended material.
Part sizes and materials
How to make a mounting plate
Due to the thickness of the table cover, in order to maximize the output of the cutting tool, it is necessary to take a smaller thickness of the mounting plate. It follows from this that, with a small thickness, it should have sufficient strength.
The plate can be metal or textolite. These materials best meet the requirements of strength and rigidity. Optimal thickness the plates should be 6 mm. They make it rectangular shape, a hole is drilled in the middle of the part with a diameter corresponding to the hole on the base of the router. To increase the range of use of the tool, rings are used different diameters. There are holes in the plate for connecting to the router and attaching it to the tabletop.
The holes in the plate must match the location and size of the holes on the base of the router. To accurately mark the plate, you need to draw a sketch with dimensions or secure it on the table using clamps.
The nuances of assembling a milling table with your own hands
When assembling the milling device, secure a metal ruler at the ends of the width of the table top; this will make it possible to set the parallel fence to the correct size and strictly parallel.
On back side Make samples of the table cover for subsequent installation of the dust collector casing and additional equipment. The drawings and photos provided will help you correctly manufacture all components.
To make it easier to turn on and safely turn off a DIY milling machine, install a mushroom-shaped start button and a stop button on the tabletop.
Option 5. Small benchtop router table
A small benchtop milling table and a detailed analysis of its manufacture are shown in the photo.
How to make a top clamp
For processing parts large sizes and creation safe conditions When working on the machine, the so-called top clamp is used. Its production is based on the use of a roller. Before constructing this device, develop a drawing of it.
The roller can be a ball bearing. Its installation is carried out on a special device, which makes it possible to fix the workpiece at any distance from the working surface.
Milling machine drive power
As a drive for a milling machine, it is most advisable to use an electric motor with a power of 1.1-2 kW and a speed of 3000 per minute. When using low-power electric motor It will not be possible to use any cutter; the machine will not have enough power. If the speed is too low, a poor-quality cut will be obtained.
You have familiarized yourself with several options for solving the issue; how to get a milling table. Which one you like is your choice. We will be glad if we were able to help you
http://o-builder.ru
When processing a surface with a hand router, it often becomes necessary to hold the product at the same time. The milling table is designed for such situations.
Of course, you can purchase this device in hardware stores, but it is not cheap, so it is better to spend a little time and make a milling table yourself.
Types of milling tables
The amount of work to be done will depend on which version of the table you need.
There are several types of router tables:
- Stationary
Free-standing, full-fledged desktop. - Portable
Tabletop design, which can be installed if necessary. - Aggregate
An option when, in order to work with a router, the surface of the saw table is expanded (pictured).
Design elements
In this article we will look at a stationary milling table. Having made it, you can independently cope with any other type of design.
The most important part of the table is the bed. It consists of a frame (legs, frame, etc.) and a table top (including metal plate and other components of the table). The height of the bed varies from 75 cm to 1 meter and can be adjusted individually.
An old unnecessary table, which can easily be converted into a milling table, is quite suitable as a bed.
The tabletop is made of chipboard, laminated chipboard, thick plywood or plastic. The optimal sheet thickness is 16 mm. The material for the frame should be selected taking into account the fact that wooden pieces will constantly move along its surface. Therefore, it should be smooth. Often the countertop is made of metals that are not subject to corrosion (for example, aluminum).
There is a mounting plate in the middle of the tabletop. Many people think that they can do without this detail, but this is not true. The mounting plate is a holder for all milling equipment.
The thickness of the plate should be no more than 8 mm. The material used depends on desire and capabilities. It can be metal, textolite, durable plywood or other sheet material. A hole is cut in the center of the plate to fit the size of the router sole.
Important: Models of milling cutters differ from each other, so when making a table you should take into account that its height should be ideal for your height, and the mounting of the router and the size of the hole should be exactly for your tool.
Stationary milling table
Let's consider the option of making a milling table with a metal frame and a tabletop made of Dutch plywood.
Materials and tools
In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- metal corner or pipe (for frame)
- aluminum guide
- axles for mounting the router
- putty, primer and paint for metal
- self-tapping screws
- furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm
- Hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts – 4 pcs.
- Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can use another material)
- boards or plywood scraps (for making a rip fence).
The following tools are also required:
- welding machine (for metal table frame)
- drill and bits
- screwdriver
- jigsaw
- milling cutter
- spatula, brushes, rags.
How to make and assemble a transforming table with your own hands:
You might also be interested in the DIY article.
And about how to make a table for yourself sewing machine, you can find out from
Manufacturing stages
Step 1. First, we make the table frame: the tabletop holder is welded from 4 profile pipes 25 x 25 mm, on one side of the table it is necessary to weld another pipe along which the parallel fence will move. The legs are welded to them.
You can weld on each side of the frame (along the perimeter where the tabletop will be located) a corner as long as a pipe, so that the tabletop sits on these corners in the recess.
Another option, which we will use, will be to install additional supports for the tabletop: we weld two more pipes onto the long sides, which will serve not only as a support for the plywood, but also as a limiter for the router (the distance between them should be such that you can safely cut out a hole for mounting the device).
In order to workplace was more stable, we weld reinforcing bridges between the table legs, at a distance of about 20 cm from the floor.
Step 2. For coloring you need to take oil paint(not suitable for aluminum and galvanized steel!). We clean the metal from dirt and degrease it using any solvent (alcohol, kerosene, etc.). If necessary, you can fill the surface with a special putty and prime it.
Please note: all actions should be carried out in a respirator and a ventilated area.
For primers You can use the same paint that will be used for further painting, but diluted with a solvent. More long term and qualitative the result is obtained during processing specialized compositions for metal.
After application last standing you need to wait until it's full drying out and only then proceed to further actions.
Step 3. We cut the tabletop exactly to fit metal frame so that it fits firmly into the corners. For greater strength, you can drill (with a metal drill) holes in metal pipes(or corners) and fasten the edges of the tabletop to the frame with furniture bolts. The size of the finished tabletop is 84 x 59 cm, table height is 90 cm.
Step 4. At a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge we cut aluminum guide along the entire length of the tabletop.
Step 5. Cut the axes for the router in half. This will help increase the space between the sole and the guide axle to 11mm (if using uncut axles, this distance will be only 6mm).
Step 6. We remove the sole from the router and mark 4 holes in the middle of the tabletop for its fastening, and drill them. We make a hole in the middle of the tabletop. The hole size will be different for each tool! Holes are drilled to the left and right of the hole into which the bolts securing the clamps of the router axes are inserted (they will no longer be removed).
Step 7 On the reverse side, you need to use a router to make a large groove for sole milling cutter.
In the groove, above and below through hole cut small grooves (with a router) equal in length to the axes. At the ends of the grooves, use a Forstner drill to make small recesses for adjusting bolts with hexagonal hole.
Step 8 We cut out two pieces of pipe equal to the width of the large groove. We drill holes in them for bolts that cannot be removed. We have obtained clamps for the router axes. Nuts are screwed onto the bolts.
Step 9 Hex nuts and bolts are placed on both sides axes and are necessary in order to carry out plane adjustment milling cutter.
Step 10 We make a parallel stop. To do this, a groove is cut in a small piece of plywood for movement along a pipe specially welded for this purpose. Using a jigsaw, three equal-sized strips of plywood are cut out (length of the strip = table length + width of the guide pipe) and 4 stiffening ribs for them.
A semicircular hole is made in one strip of plywood for the release of chips, which should correspond to the slot in the tabletop. A square hole is made in the second strip in the same place.
The third strip of plywood is sawn in half. It is attached to the back of the strip with a square hole using bolts (then you need to make long grooves for their movement) or simple guides. The plywood halves should move apart in different directions. An aluminum guide is installed at the very top edge of this strip.
Step 11 We fasten the first and second strips together with the sides with cutouts. We fasten the stiffening ribs: two - along the edges of the resulting large hole at the junction of the plywood strips and one - on both sides (at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edge).
We cut out a small square of thin plywood (which would fit between the stiffening ribs located in the middle), closer to the middle we make a hole equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner pipe. The plywood is attached to the stiffeners, forming a triangular box.
Step 12 The parallel stop for the milling table is fixed with clamps. This is done so that the milling table can be easily removed and rearranged. If it is completely intended for the router, you can fix emphasis using brackets with grooves for its movement.
Step 13 For convenience, we weld a 6-mm metal plate to a regular bolt. The clamps are made of wood, with two grooves for such bolts. It is necessary to have two such clamps.
Step 14 We install the router: we thread our half-cut axles into the side holes of the router, put nuts on them and secure the router with pipe clamps.
Step 15 We turn the table over. Using a hex wrench, turn the bolt, lifting the router up (1 turn = 1 mm).
Can be installed with a jack so you don't have to use bolts all the time. To turn on the router, we attach a socket with a switch to one of the legs, which will act as an ON/OFF button.
Please note: For convenience, you can provide a small tape to hold the wire from the router while working.
Workplace safety
When working with power tools, do not forget about the safety rules:
- When working with a router, be careful not to turn away from it or move workpieces near the tool with your hands.
- Always use restraints, safety glasses and gloves.
- Keep children away from the operating machine.
- If a malfunction occurs, immediately unplug the router and take it to a workshop.
For more information on how to make a table for a hand router, see video:
Make a milling table with your own hands, having the drawings in front of you, necessary materials, fastenings are not difficult. Some people think it's better to buy finished product. Others are sure that homemade table allows you to accurately adapt the working platform to your needs, the nuances of a CNC machine or a conventional manual milling machine. What to choose is up to you.
To make yourself a table for a router, you first need to decide what kind of table it will be. Working with a milling machine can vary depending on a number of factors, including the size of the machine itself.
Working on a table for a CNC router begins with you choosing which drawing will become the basis for production. It is not uncommon for work to be carried out without drawings. But then you must draw the parameters of the future table yourself and cut its elements using a circular saw. You should choose the components that you will need to make a homemade table based on its main elements.
- Construction type. Work outside the workshop, and with constant movement, provides a choice portable table for a CNC machine or without program control. If the work will be carried out in a garage or workshop without the need to move the table, you should choose a stationary table for your router. There is an aggregate type. This is an option when expanding the table top of your milling machine or making a rotating version of the design.
- Tabletop. To make the top of your table, use chipboard or MDF sheets. These materials are easily cut using a circular saw, so the work does not cause difficulties. Many people make a homemade table using a pressed tabletop. But it is important to understand that when working in conditions of increased dampness, they quickly swell and become unusable. Alternatively, you can choose plastic. An excellent practical tabletop is created from polymer sheets. Metal is stronger, but heavy material. If you decide to choose aluminum, be sure to cover it with a protective layer of varnish.
- Groove and stop. Working on a milling machine usually involves longitudinal processing of the side of workpieces. If you want to machine transverse end elements, the design must include a movable stop. This stop will move in the grooves. The groove will also serve as a fixation for the clamping elements of the structure.
- Installation of the router. Using a homemade table, attaching a hand router to the table can be done directly to the bottom of the tabletop or to a removable platform. The first option is easier to do, but if you choose the second method, you will get some advantages in the form of easier removal of the cutter when changing cutting tools. In this regard, the mounting plate is a more preferable option, which will take a little longer to tinker with.
- Longitudinal stop. This stop acts as a guide for the workpieces. Therefore, the most important requirement is that the emphasis must be as even as possible. Since this is a homemade table, you can use a T-slot to support it. Clamping devices and other components are inserted into it to simplify work on the machine.
All necessary elements can be cut using a circular saw. Making a homemade table is not a problem. The tabletop, stop, guides, and fasteners are clearly indicated by size if you use standard drawings. Taking a ready-made drawing, you can adapt a homemade table for a CNC machine to suit your own needs. Act in what is best for you. Finding the drawings themselves will not be difficult, and you probably have a circular saw in your arsenal of power tools, since you are going to make a table for a CNC machine.
Do it yourself
To make yourself a table for a manual router or a machine with a CNC module, you will need drawings and the necessary elements of the future design, which we described above.
When choosing a drawing for a future design for a milling machine, be sure to focus on the dimensions of your machine, as well as the dimensions of the space available to place the equipment. It makes no sense to make a large table for a small CNC machine, just like vice versa.
You can always redo the drawing, make some amendments, based on available materials, features of the machine, the presence of a circular saw and other nuances. If you need a good coordinate table for a router, it is better to purchase a factory-made one. Making a homemade coordinate table is quite problematic.
We offer you the option of a small table, work on which will allow you to easily place a small desktop CNC router or without a module. The advantage of this design is that it is easy to make with your own hands, it has small sizes, simple fastenings are used here.
- It is recommended to make the desktop and side racks from laminated plywood. The material must be thick enough to withstand the load. The approximate dimensions of the tabletop will be 40 by 60 millimeters. Not taking into account the corner stop, the height will be 35 cm. The corner stop itself has a height of 10 cm. Instead of plywood, a metal or plastic plate can be used. A plate made of such materials is more durable and less subject to wear. But the metal plate will add weight, making the table not so mobile and light.
- Make three grooves on the surface of the tabletop that will serve to install the rails. Here auxiliary components of the future working surface can be installed, which you may need to operate milling cutters or a circular milling machine.
- To increase the stability of the leg mounting structure, reinforce it with chipboard or MDF sheets No. 22. The table legs need to be installed at some distance so that there is room for fixing the templates and clamps with clamps.
- You can cover the machine mechanism by covering the bottom of the front panel with a sheet of plywood or similar material.
- Grooves must be made under the side stop, along which it can move. The stop is fixed at the required location with bolts and nuts. Moreover, it is better to use wing nuts. In this case, you can easily remove the stop and put another unit in its place.
- The stop is connected to a pipe, which is necessary for removing dust and chips during processing. To drain waste, use ordinary corrugated hoses, which are widely used in sewerage. You can connect a home vacuum cleaner through the clamp.
- If you have table machine, it is better to provide a toggle switch to turn the machine on and off. If you do not have a desktop router, but a simple manual router, you will not need such a toggle switch.
- The stop includes two elements that can move or move apart depending on the size of the working tool. To secure the sashes, use wing nuts. This design will allow you to easily remove the milling device from the frame and change cutters as needed.
- Decide for yourself what material to use for the mounting surface for a CNC milling machine. Experts advise taking textolite or plexiglass.
A similar table for a tabletop or manual milling machine can be made using a circular saw, an electric jigsaw and standard tools. The coordinate version of the table is much more complicated, so the work involves the use of appropriate drawings and materials.
Which table to choose for you - a coordinate table or a regular homemade one for a CNC router or without it, decide for yourself. The work must be performed efficiently, observing all specified dimensions. Watch the video instructions that will help you determine which table is suitable for your machine. fits better everything.