How to assemble a milling table. Do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router. Milling table operations

Upon purchase milling machine It is not always possible to determine the exact tasks and scope of work performed. Therefore, the master, thinking about buying, tries to find universal option, combine the precision of machining on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.

In this article we will look at a compromise option - a table for hand router with your own hands, drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.

To make a milling table with your own hands, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or bought ready-made option, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.

The working process of a hand milling cutter consists of moving the tool along the plane of the workpiece. If the router is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then the manual machine becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.

It is preferable to perform a number of milling operations only in a stationary position - cutting out grooves and grooves, various methods of processing the edges of products and laying tenon joints.

The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location. It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.

Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands. Portable design milling machine allows you to remove the hand router from the structure, and mount it again after completing the work.

Basic elements of a milling table

Let's consider an option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to make with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.

It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:

  • bed;
  • table top;
  • mounting plate;
  • longitudinal stop;
  • pressing combs.

bed

You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (cut plywood sheets, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes). We will put together a bed for the machine from boards or use old table, nightstand.
Anything that allows you to react firmly and steadily to the vibration of the milling machine and will perform the functions of load-bearing structure machine

When making a machine bed with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself. Only by taking into account the operator’s characteristics (height, arm length, etc.) will the work process take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.

Convenient to use on work surface kitchen countertop. But this option is relevant if you changed kitchen furniture and the old tabletop lies idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.

The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a durable and reliable table for a hand router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the feeding of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.

The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed; the width of the tabletop changes, but the depth and thickness remain unchanged. The picture shows a table top with dimensions suitable for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is not mandatory; each master changes them to suit specific conditions and requirements.

A hole is cut in the center of the tabletop for attaching a milling machine. The dimensions of this hole are larger than the seat plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded to install the mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the rebate is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the surface of the table.

For greater functionality of the machine and the ability to process parts of different sizes, grooves are selected in the tabletop. They install a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.

The mounting plate is required to attach the router to the table. It is made from durable materials such as: metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used for fastening. To make it easier to control the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.

The plate should fit tightly into its seat on the machine table top. Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over mounting the router directly on bottom part countertops. The small thickness of the plate increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter used. The diameter of cutters varies from 3 mm to 76 mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with replaceable rings to change the hole for the cutter.

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required that guides the workpiece along the table. The result of the work done with your own hands will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the table top. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.

A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction. Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working element, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.

Longitudinal stop (front view)

Longitudinal stop (rear view)

To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.

The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure. Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the ridge moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.

The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves lengthwise and crosswise in a horizontal plane.

  1. If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table yourself, with the help of which you can adjust the comfortable height for work.
  2. To ensure durability of the equipment, the wooden parts of the milling table are coated with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
  3. Mount safety glass on a longitudinal support that will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
  4. Use gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
  5. Do not wear loose-fitting clothes.
  6. Use hand routers with a power rating greater than 1100 watts.
  7. Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 the length of the shank.

Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:

  • before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
  • do not apply much force when milling (too strong a feed will damage the tool);
  • install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank, but not tightly, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
  • when using large diameter cutters, reduce the rotation speed;
  • disconnect the tool from the power supply before performing adjustments and maintenance;
  • Monitor the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged ones.

Any master will tell you that functional workplace- this is half the success in work. This is especially true when it comes to special devices that make it possible to produce not only the simplest objects, but also much more complex products.

Milling table may have like simple design, and complex with many different additional details.

Gone are the days when beautifully milled furniture panels could only be made in a furniture factory. Today there are all the technical and financial capabilities so that any private craftsman can make a milling table with his own hands. Sometimes this is even more profitable and practical than ordering equipment assembled in a factory - it can turn out to be much more expensive than the customer’s wallet allows, and will not fit the dimensions of a small private carpentry workshop.

At the same time, as practice shows, there is nothing particularly difficult in making a milling table. However, first you need to decide on two fundamental points - the type of table and the necessary (and available) materials for its production.

For a craftsman who in the near future wants to create carpentry masterpieces using this very device, it is probably important to understand what the table will be like - a separate stationary complex or an aggregate part of the main workbench. In addition, you will have to look for strong and reliable materials, without which high quality cannot be achieved.

Purpose and types

The creation of specialized tables for processing wood with metal cutters was, in a sense, a response to the inconveniences that arise when working with a manual milling machine. Many operations, including milling furniture panels, require maximum precision and cleanliness.

In such conditions, a need arose for a special device that provides rigid fastening of the cutting element to the table body with movement of the processed wooden surface.

The development of this principle led to a division similar devices according to the nature of their use and location at the carpenter’s workplace. So several appeared different types tables for milling operations. In particular, they are divided into stationary (located independently from other workbenches), modular (representing a side extension to the main sawing table) and portable (can be carried and installed in any place convenient for them) tables.

Thus, a stationary milling table, even taking up slightly more space in the workshop than modular or portable options, has its advantages over smaller analogues.

It can be either completely simple in design or equipped with a variety of various additional parts useful for carpentry work.

It guarantees maximum convenience for the employee. It can be quite mobile, easily moved around the room, just attach small wheels to its legs. And it will take up little space if you use an initially compact design when making it.

But no matter what type of router table is used, any of them will certainly help the carpenter quickly and efficiently perform such very common operations as cutting grooves and making grooves, various options edge processing and preparation of tenon joints.

At the same time, having such a table, equipped according to all the rules, the master can have absolutely no fear of surfaces that cannot be processed on a flat table. Indeed, in most cases, the design of this device allows you to simply temporarily remove the manual router installed on it, and after completing the “non-standard” operation, install it again on the table.

Return to contents

Components

Before you start making such a table with your own hands, you need to get acquainted with its main components. This will help you better understand why this device significantly improves the quality and productivity of carpentry work.

The main element of the entire complex is an electric milling machine (milling machine). Using removable cutters, this mechanism cuts out all kinds of relief recesses and grooves in wooden cabinet parts. When choosing a router, it is recommended to pay special attention for the presence of some options necessary for operation, including modes soft start device and quickly stop the engine, stabilize the rotation speed of the milling spindle, and also make sure that manual adjustment is available.

The entire design of the milling table is based on the bed - the second component of the specified device. It can be made from different materials, including wood, metal, chipboard or MDF. The purpose of the bed is to ensure rigid stability of the milling table during operation. The dimensions of the bed are set depending on the dimensions of the wood pieces that will be processed on the table. At the same time, regarding the height of the bed, it is recommended to choose an indicator that would correspond most comfortable conditions work while standing, that is, approximately 850-900 mm.

Third component The design described is a tabletop. It is necessary that it be completely flat, without deformations or significant defects in the surface layer. A variety of wood panels can be used to make this part, which effectively dampen vibrations arising during milling, including a tabletop based on chipboard from ordinary kitchen table thickness from 26 to 36 mm.

The milling table must include a metal or textolite (depending on the choice of the master) mounting plate for the router. The mentioned main element milling machine, through a hole made in the plate, the cutter enters the working position. For this reason, the material for the mounting plate must meet two mandatory characteristics - it must have increased strength and at the same time be sufficiently thin.

Return to contents

Materials and tools

Since the production of this design does not seem to be too complicated, a relatively small list of everything necessary for this is offered. In particular, you will need:

  • manual milling machine;
  • standard car jack;
  • wooden blocks square section (4 pieces);
  • particle boards or plywood sheets, cut in accordance with the diagram of the future device;
  • metal profile;
  • steel plate 6 mm thick (for making a mounting plate);
  • set of aluminum guides;
  • electric drill;
  • wrenches;
  • screwdriver set;
  • movable stop (carriage) (this function can be performed by a guide from the saw);
  • fastening material (screws, bolts, nuts, staples, etc.);
  • measuring devices (ruler, measuring tape, square).

Return to contents

Operating principle

The schematic design of the simplest installation for milling operations on wood is as follows. A metal (textolite) plate is mounted in a chipboard or plywood panel (countertop). A hole of a certain diameter is pre-drilled in the plate, into which a cutter is inserted to carry out these operations. It is an attachment on a manual milling machine.

A removable cutter of a given configuration, following the router located at the bottom of the tabletop, can freely rise and fall. Due to this movement, the production of the required reliefs within the required dimensions is ensured. In this case, the amplitude of the translational movement is set by a conventional car jack (for this purpose, you can, in particular, use a standard bottle jack, But would be better suited screw version), installed underneath the milling machine and pushing it.

The processed wooden workpiece (board) is limited by metal or wooden guides fixed to the table.

Return to contents

Assembly procedure and features

To correctly assemble this table with your own hands, you must carefully perform all operations and adhere to their strict sequence.

The first step is the production of the frame - the stationary frame of the entire future table. It is made from wooden blocks and fragments of chipboard. They are cut out support legs devices, the sidewalls are sheathed with particle boards, which gives rigidity to the entire structure. In the name of better rigidity of the frame, it would not hurt to supplement it with plywood panels connecting the legs in a horizontal plane. A hole should be cut in the side of the chipboard - the trigger button will be installed in it.

Next, move on to the tabletop. It is also made from particle board. The table top should be made in such a way that it can be freely raised and lowered on the frame using ordinary door hinges. A pre-assembled frame frame is attached to the bottom of the tabletop, inside which the router and jack will be located. This frame will simultaneously serve as an additional support for the entire milling device.

During the milling process, it is necessary to move the wooden workpiece evenly, without accidental distortions, along the milling table in relation to the permanently fixed cutter. This movement can be ensured using a special movable stop carriage, which is fixed in the guide. To make it, a groove is cut out on the surface of the tabletop into which a metal profile is inserted.

A longitudinal stop should be installed in the center, next to the cutter. It is made, as a rule, from chipboard scraps (but other materials can be used) in the form of a corner. This stop must be movable so that it can be used to easily adjust the gaps around the cutter. To give mobility, two holes (grooves) are made in the lower part of this element, into which special clamps are installed that press the stop to the tabletop.

A steel mounting plate is attached to the center of the table on top of the tabletop rectangular shape with a hole for a cutter in the middle. The plate with its upper edge should be flush with the surface of the table top, forming one plane with it. A router is attached to the plate from below using a special sole, as well as screws and bolts.

A car jack will act as a lift for a manual milling machine. By twisting it in different directions, the master will be able to lower or raise the cutter quite accurately. This will ensure correct milling of the wooden workpiece.

On final stage To install the milling table, the handles are removed from the milling machine. Aluminum guides are screwed in their place. They, in turn, are connected to the jack mechanism.

Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible using a milling machine. This tool can be fully used in a special installation. This is what a milling table is. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. There is no point in spending a lot of money on purchasing this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in a table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface being processed, but the part that moves relative to it. A router fixed to the table gives more ample opportunities processing of parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade design will replace an industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

  1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and non-movable.
  2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
  3. Aggregate - the design provides for expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Design diagram

To make your own countertops, you usually use MDF boards covered with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to process and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so it needs to be painted.

The covers of the milling tables must be smooth. They are often made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are easy to process. This is very convenient when making grooves for aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening the longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

Branded countertops made of steel or aluminum already have holes for a specific model of router. If the manufactured countertop models are made of MDF boards or plastic, then the companies prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is attached with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table cover is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices for leveling the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the working surface of the milling table.

Creates convenience when selecting cutter diameter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, positioned strictly perpendicular to the surface of the table, and be easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made either solid or in the form of several overlays. To prevent chips and debris from accumulating, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The vacuum cleaner hose is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop are in the form of several fastened overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a frame into which the grinder will be attached. Read more about self-production You can read this design.

Required tools and materials

  1. Carpenter's glue.
  2. Bolts with nuts.
  3. Screws.
  4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
  5. Jigsaw.
  6. Wrenches.
  7. Sandpaper.
  8. Ruler.
  9. Pencil

Drawings and calculations

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. Most in a simple way To create a table top, support part and parts for a milling table, you will use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board, laminated on both sides, will not warp during use. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table we used:

  1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
  2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
  3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
  4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
  5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table diagrams

Step by step instructions

The structure of the upper part of the table will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. As a replacement for this material, you can use birch plywood.

1 - working surface; 2 - support base; 3 - its support wall; 4 - gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

  • It is necessary to remove the plastic cover from the base of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic pad will serve as a template for marking

  • On the largest sawn part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make markings for the cutter. To do this, you need to draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle and put a mark. Then place the pad so that the router's adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be secured with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

  • Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determining its diameter

  • From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

  • Using the holes in the sole of the pad, mark future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

  • In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

  • Attach four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the tabletop using screws.

Use wood glue or epoxy as glue.

  • Glue the remaining pieces together and secure them with screws. Install a router at the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

  • Now you need to make the table support structure. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side pillar; 2 - internal stand; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

  • Cut the plywood into pieces according to size.
  • Assemble the table structure, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, and glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

  • Then you need to make mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater reach of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make the plate, you need duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the router sole onto it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will serve as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the cover. After this, remove the cover and use a large drill to make indentations for the caps in the plate.

Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible

  • As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which are sanded.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

  • At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them with reverse side tabletops with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the tabletop, aligning them for fastening with bolts. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the tabletop and secure it with screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

  • For ease of operation of the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the future to process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to embed guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the slab.

Rotary and side stop will make the process convenient

  • Install a guide profile in the front stop bar for attaching clamps, pads and protective devices.
  • To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a part measuring 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the detail we make round hole for attaching the adapter fitting for a vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

  • For support, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience

  • To mill small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, we cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a comb clamp, it is better to use maple wood. To cut out a part, you need to choose an area with a straight direction of the wood fibers. It is better to make the cracks of the ridges with a circular saw on a machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

  • Secure the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in areas where milling work will be carried out. Clear everything wooden elements from dust and cover with oil.

Safety precautions

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. You can also equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent particles from flying away.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective screen and measuring workpieces is prohibited. To avoid flying particles from getting into your eyes, you must use safety glasses. This is especially true when high-speed milling or processing bronze, cast iron or silumin elements.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to keep your hands close to the tool rotation zone. Before installing drills, you must ensure their reliability and strength, as well as their integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips or cracks. If such defects are detected, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks regarding inexpensive materials and your skill can build a compact design of a milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

  1. Device
  2. FS design example
  3. bed
  4. Tabletop
  5. Work plate
  6. Rings
  7. Fraser
  8. Router fasteners
  9. Guide rail
  10. Stop bars
  11. Nozzle
  12. Longitudinal movable stop
  13. Additional fasteners
  14. Rotary FS

The owner of a private house has to do a lot of repairs, improve his living conditions. The milling table will become great solution in the manufacture of various parts and devices made of wood, as it ensures accuracy and good quality processing of workpieces.

The table is the main base of the machine. The working part of the equipment is a milling cutter, a part with several cutting blades. With its help they make wooden blanks various types grooves, channels, windows (vertical recesses), oval profile bevels and much more. Milling is the mechanical processing of workpieces with a multi-bladed tool. The cutter, in addition to rotational movement, makes translational movements. Bed with table top for processing wooden products called a milling table (FS).

Device

Correct installation of the router in the table depends on the impeccable design of the bed. The working surface of the machine is located on the bed. A milling cutter is attached to the plate from below and moves along a vertical axis. The workpiece is fixed in the transverse direction with a special device - a parallel stop for the milling table.

The principle of operation of the FS can be compared to how a circular saw works. Wooden material is pushed onto a rotating blade body installed in a stationary position for processing.

FS design example

To make the FS you will need the following materials:

  • or ;
  • small pieces of chipboard or plywood;
  • various hardware;
  • metal corner;
  • steel plate;
  • aluminum profile;
  • elevator (jack);
  • carriage;
  • plastic clamps.

The drawing shows the dimensions of the parts, which can be adjusted in each case of individual design of the FS. This homemade table for a manual milling machine - an example of the most primitive FS design. Homemade designs FS can be made from other materials. It all depends on the capabilities and qualifications of the person who took on such work.

Independent production of FS

Let's consider the structural features of the FS parts:

bed

The supporting part of the machine can be made of wooden beam or welded from metal profile. The required drawing of the frame is presented below.

Under the FS you can use an ordinary workbench. But you need to know that during operation of the power unit strong vibrations will occur. If the workbench is not stable enough, then a special support structure should be made. The main load is transferred from the working platform down to the machine support. Therefore, the bed must have a lot of weight.

Tabletop

The working area of ​​the table is the tabletop. It is better to make it from PCB with a thickness of 20-30 mm. Why choose textolite? This is explained by the fact that the entire process of processing workpieces is associated with the sliding of parts along the working surface of the table. Textolite differs from other materials in its high degree of wear resistance and low coefficient of friction. A tabletop made of such material will not harm the solid surface of the workpiece and will last for many years.

Instead of textolite, a steel plate with a thickness of 6 mm or more can be used as a working platform for the table.

Work plate

The plate for the router is made of textolite or metal sheet. A hole is made in the plate into which metal rings are inserted. Rings with different diameters are inserted into each other. The ring inserts are flush with the surface of the tabletop.

Rings

What are the rings for? They ensure that the cutter fits tightly into the body of the workpiece. Different size rings matches different diameters cutting elements.

Fraser

Since the router is attached to the bottom of the tabletop, the FS design creates free space below. Installation and maintenance of the power plant should not be difficult due to cramped conditions at the bottom of the machine.

The universal power unit that drives the cutter is called a milling cutter. It can be done using any suitable electric motor. But this can be done by a person with extensive experience in this field of activity. The best option will purchase a ready-made manual milling cutter.

A manual milling machine is a multifunctional unit. Power tools perform a wide variety of operations. It is mainly used for processing wooden blanks.

However, holding the tool in your hands and at the same time trying to fix a wooden part is very difficult. This will not bring the desired result. To ensure that parts are manufactured with high precision, the milling cutter is mounted on a special table.

The base of the router has threaded holes. The holes are used for fastening the tool with screws to a plate built into the FS tabletop.

Router fasteners

Table tops and plates on milling tables must be located strictly in the same horizontal plane. The mounting screws on the plate are screwed into countersunk holes. Nothing should protrude or sink on the working surface of the FS.

If there are no mounting holes in the router body, you can cut them yourself. To attach the plate to the tabletop, a sample of material is taken from below. If the working platform is made of steel sheet, then metal plate equipped with special fastenings.

Elevator

On professional machines, a special device – an elevator – is installed to move the router vertically.

With some skill, you can adapt a jack or other lever as an elevator lifting mechanism. The best option would be to purchase a ready-made elevator from a retail chain. The main thing in the design of the lifting mechanism is to ensure reliable fixation of the unit at a particular height. The conical arrangement of the cutting elements of the cutter allows, at a certain height of the protrusion above the working surface of the FS, to regulate the depth and width of the opening in the body of the workpiece.

Guide rail

The guide rail is made from a duralumin profile. You can use aluminum tracks used in furniture to move sliding cabinet doors as a guide rail. A cut is made under the rail using a hand router. The guide track should be placed parallel to the opposite thrust wall.

Stop bars

At the ends of the tabletop, aluminum tracks are installed on both sides, along which the frame structure with stop strips moves. A ruler is attached parallel to the track at the end. The ruler can be made from a regular tape measure.

The stop bars act as lateral support for the workpieces. They are located on both sides of the milling head. To protect the operator's eyes from chips, the gap between the slats is covered with transparent plastic.

Nozzle

WITH outside a suction nozzle is mounted above the milling head. It is connected to a vacuum cleaner while the machine is operating. Thanks to this, wood dust and shavings are effectively removed from the work area.

Longitudinal movable stop

The lower part of the movable stop is inserted into the guide track. The stand moves freely along the FS. With its vertical wall, the device rests against the base of the workpiece. By pressing the stop, the machine operator moves the part along the table during milling.

Additional fasteners

The clamps are made of plastic. They keep the workpiece from involuntary displacement of the part in the vertical and horizontal plane. The clamps are mounted on a special stand.

Rotary FS

A rotary table for a milling machine is a rather complex technical device. The rotary FS allows you to set the angle of inclination of the workpiece. This occurs due to the ability of the working surface of the table to move in different directions. CNC-equipped machines have the ability to produce parts with round and spiral configurations.

Manually controlled FSs perform various roundings and allow processing curved surfaces of parts. The most common diameter of the FS is from 300 to 600 mm. Swivel mechanism moves work surface table both in the horizontal plane and in the transverse-longitudinal and vertical-horizontal planes.

The horizontal-vertical rotating platform ensures the processing of high-quality workpieces. The vertical-horizontal working platform makes it possible to perform circular processing of parts and form screw channels on the surface of products.

Rotary tables are used for processing steel parts and workpieces made of other metals.

Only specialists can make a turning machine with their own hands. highly qualified. It is beneficial to have a machine of this design when carrying out business activities. For one-time work, it is not economically profitable to maintain a rotary FS on your farm.

Below is a video demonstrating simple diagram FS structures. Assembling such equipment is quite accessible to a person with experience in carpentry.

Compliance with safety regulations

The milling table is equipped with an electric tool. When operating the machine, you must observe following conditions safety precautions:

  1. If the FS frame is made of metal, then it is necessary to arrange the grounding of the tabletop support.
  2. It is important to install the machine in a well-ventilated and lighted area.
  3. In the case of manufacturing the FS from wooden parts, the milling cutter body itself is grounded.

It can be very difficult to cut grooves accurately and to size. For the manufacture of table and chair legs, milling, jointing or drilling machines with special devices and moving tables. In the absence of stationary machines, the grooves are cut with a manual milling cutter using a stop.

To cut a groove, you need to adjust the entire system of tables and clamping devices by eye, and the first time you almost always get an error. After additional adjustments, the error is eliminated and parts can be completed. It is difficult to hold a hand router with your own hands, and sometimes vibrations cause mistakes and drifts towards the stop, especially when hitting a knot.

The problem becomes even more complicated if the part is single, or the groove is located at a large distance from the edge of the board.

Original idea

The table recommended in the article is light in weight and small in size. It is quickly transferred, rebuilt and allows you to select grooves with great accuracy, high quality and without errors. Working with a manual router using the proposed table becomes simple and safe.

Important! The advantage and peculiarity of the idea is that with the help transparent material plexiglass very quickly and conveniently install the structure, combining it with the marks on the workpieces.

The table presented in the article for a manual router is easy to make with your own hands.

Preparing for work

In order to make a table structure for a manual router, you must have the following materials and components available:

Materials

Name Type and dimensions, mm Quantity
Scotch 1
Double sided tape 1
Fluoroplastic plate 300x300x20 1
Plexiglas 500x500, thickness 6-8
Adhesive for plastic

Accessories

Name Type and dimensions, mm Quantity
Countersunk screw M8, length 30 6
Countersunk screw M8, length 60 2
Furniture bolt M8, length 60 4
nuts M8 6
washers M8 6
wing nuts M8 6

Tools

List of tools used in the manufacture of a homemade device:

  • ruler;
  • cutting knife;
  • thick felt-tip pen;
  • pencil;
  • finger cutters 10 mm, 16 mm;
  • conical cutter;
  • hand router;
  • carpenter's square;
  • clamps;
  • 8 mm;
  • head for chamfering on a drill;

The process of making a homemade table

Advice! To protect against chipping, tape is placed in the slots. For this purpose, they also protect the places where holes are drilled in plexiglass, using a drill with a chamfer head.

After this, the tape is removed. Using a simple felt-tip pen, draw the line of the slot so that it appears clearly.

Two strips measuring 500x50 mm are cut from plexiglass to make guides for the milling table. The edges of the guides are ground to reduce friction.

Next, in the lower side of the plate for the platform, 3 holes are drilled on both sides. This operation is performed with a drill with a chamfer head. Countersunk head screws will be inserted into these holes from below. 3 holes are cut accordingly on one of the plexiglass guide strips. Then connect one guide to the platform and attach nuts and washers.

A conical cutter is installed on a hand router. The router is pressed against the platform, the end of the cutter is aligned with the line in the center of the platform, and the bolt is clamped on the guide. Repeat this operation at the other end of the guide and tighten all the bolts. Screw the second guide in the same way.

Thus, the manual router slides along the plexiglass platform along the guides, which rigidly fix it on both sides, preventing errors and mistakes.

Then, using a milling machine, a groove for the cutter is cut, having previously marked its dimensions on the platform with a felt-tip pen. Since its width should be 1 mm larger than the largest available finger cutter, the groove is made in 3 passes.

At the next stage, it is necessary to make equipment from polystyrene for attaching the limiters. The stoppers move and are fixed on the stopper base, which is mounted on the table platform.

  1. Cut polystyrene blanks on a circular saw.
  2. The grooves are milled.
  3. Drill holes for fastening.

Grooves are milled into the blanks of the stops and inserted into the bases by threading the screws into the holes of the grooves. If necessary, protruding screws are cut off with a grinder and the burrs are smoothed with a file.

  1. Drill holes in the clamping bars.
  2. The cutter is used to select a countersunk for the heads of furniture bolts.
  3. Insert bolts into holes.

On the back side of the platform, bars are inserted so that the bolts fit into the grooves for fixing the table. Wings are screwed onto furniture bolts and limiter screws.

The design of the milling table is made by hand and is ready for use.

The procedure for using a homemade table

Milling of bars

  1. The workpiece is installed from below, covered on both sides with pressure bars and clamped. Using markings on the plexiglass of the platform and marks on the block, the structure is oriented so that the center of the block is in the center of the platform. The wings of the pressure bars are clamped. After this, the structure with the workpiece is clamped in a carpenter's vice.
  2. Using markings on the bars and a conical cutter, the limiters are set and fixed.
  3. Moving a hand router along the guides from one stop to another, changing the depth several times, select the grooves.

Milling grooves on a board

To carry out this operation you will need double sided tape. The clamping bars are removed from the device.

  1. Make markings on the board with a pencil, glue tape to the board and press the platform to it in accordance with the markings.
  2. Install and press the limiters.
  3. The groove is milled.

The following figure shows work done with a hand router on bars and boards. The result of assembly on tenons is also shown. All dimensions were perfectly accurate, and the process lasted for an hour.

Conclusion

A homemade table for a manual router is simple to make and has a low cost. Along with this, it is quickly installed on the part and easily and accurately performs manual milling work. Using this device in the workshop, you can significantly increase the productivity of a carpenter.

Video