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As a rule, replacing any windows leads to the destruction of the adjacent section of the wall. The question arises: what should be done to make the window structure look beautiful and reliably protect from noise, wind and other troubles of the street? The answer is simple: in this case, without repair work can't get by. There are various options sealing slopes, but to choose the right option, you need to consider them in more detail.
About slopes
The sections of the wall adjacent to the window block are called slopes. They are internal and external. Strict requirements apply to internal areas.
The following functions are assigned to the slopes:
- giving the window structure an aesthetic and attractive appearance. Can you imagine quality window, which is docked with a broken wall;
- improvement of sound and thermal insulation. Window structures that do not have high-quality slopes do not have sufficient tightness;
- protection of mounting elements and seams from impact environment. A high-quality slope not only protects fasteners from corrosion, but also reduces the likelihood of windows fogging and freezing.
Thus, slope repair is a list of works aimed not only at restoring damaged sections of the wall, but also at creating additional insulation.
Basically, one of the following repair options is selected:
For any repair of slopes, first of all, high-quality surface preparation is necessary.
Preparing the window opening
Restoration of slopes begins after their surface has been prepared. Preparation is performed in the following sequence:
In order not to destroy the restored slopes, the window sill is installed before the repair begins.
To protect against dirt and broken elements, the window and window sill are protected with paper or polyethylene. It also wouldn’t hurt to protect the window handle and battery under the windowsill.
The protective film on the window is removed only after all work is completed.
- The surfaces of the slopes are thoroughly cleaned. Large dangling fragments are attached to the mortar.
Plastering slopes
This option for repairing slopes is low cost. For sealing it is enough to have: finishing mixture, a set simple tools and water-based paint.
Successful window installation is only part of the installation process, since the heat concentration inside the room and the optimal level of comfort directly depend on the quality of the structure’s sealing. In addition to practical indicators, the external design window opening. The ability to properly seal windows after installation will not only eliminate the penetration of cold air from the street, but will also eliminate the formation of fungi, mold and unpleasant odor dampness.
Preparation for external sealing
It is necessary to seal the slopes both from the inside and from the outside in order to avoid the disastrous consequences of defects. When exposed to factors external environment the polyurethane foam layer will be destroyed and quickly lose its functionality. For this reason, external work is given priority attention and only after its completion is it taken up for interior decoration.
The finishing serves as protection for the polyurethane foam from destruction and an aesthetic appearance.
Before you begin installation, you need to decide on the materials that will become the basis of the slope. As external elements often use plastic panels or the plaster method. Similar materials are used for interior work, where the choice expands significantly, including sandwich panels, wood or plasterboard.
After installing the window unit, all cracks and gaps are carefully sealed with foam. Before sealing the window everything empty seats must be filled out carefully polyurethane foam . After this, waterproofing materials are applied and the structure is allowed to dry and settle. Before you begin sealing work, put the installed structure in order and treat it with antifungal drugs that are used during installation.
Covering windows with plaster
The plastering method is widespread among both experienced specialists and non-professional craftsmen. The popularity of plaster finishing is explained by its low cost consumables And good quality compared to other methods. There is also a small disadvantage to this type of finishing, which is a large time investment. To get truly good results, craftsmen will have to sacrifice some time. However, labor costs will result in a successful completion.
Plastering of external slopes is carried out in 3 stages By average standards, plastering work on external slopes will take from 2 to 3 days, since each of the applied layers of the mixture must dry well before applying the next one. The first and second layers must be made with a thermal insulation compound, which can be purchased in every specialized store. The layer is very important for maintaining heat in the house, which is especially important for regions with low temperatures. The third layer - the last - is applied using regular plaster mixture. As soon as the sealed slopes have dried, you can safely sand and paint the surface in the desired colors.
Seal with plastic
Finishing slopes using plastic materials will be an excellent option for achieving quick results of decent quality. Universal plastic will help to cover small defects or errors made during installation of the structure. Plastic slopes can be freely purchased in almost every hardware store with a wide selection of colors. True, they will cost more than plaster.
Plastic panels are installed quickly and easily To install such a panel, you first need to fit it by cutting it to fit required sizes and attach assembly adhesive, and fill the joints with silicone sealant. Easy installation does not require knowledge of specialized skills, and the panels themselves have a long service life and do not require special care.
We seal the internal slopes
The interior decoration of windows needs to be given great attention, since not only the level of comfort and reliable protection from the external environment, but also the aesthetic component will depend on the quality of workmanship. Try to carry out the work with great care so that the result is presentable. appearance.
Application of drywall
This material is one of the most affordable price options that meets environmental requirements. It does an excellent job of retaining heat indoors and looks attractive from the outside. The disadvantage will be difficulty in installation, since the formed joints will have to be sealed especially carefully. The installed drywall must be puttied and painted. When choosing this material as a finish, give preference to moisture-resistant types. Before fixing the sheets, it is advisable to make a layer of glass wool to increase the thermal insulation properties.
Installing drywall is a labor-intensive and complex process. Sandwich panels for embedding
Sandwich panels consist of two sheets of PVC, the filling of which contains polyurethane foam with a high thermal insulation function. The material is different increased level comfort with excellent heat retention. Installation of sandwich panels is carried out using profiles, under which isover is laid. The technology is in many ways reminiscent of installing plastic slopes and is simple to implement. The thickness of the structure is 10 mm, and the material itself has a long service life.
Sandwich panels have high thermal insulation properties Plastic option
The demand for plastic sealing is explained by its harmonious design due to the ability to choose the same color and structure of materials similar color scheme window opening. The panel is easily placed on a special glue, but first the surface must be laid out with isover. Upon completion of the work, carefully seal the openings with silicone sealant.
Technology for sealing windows with plastic slopes
Because plastic slopes are highly popular due to the simplicity and accessibility of execution, let’s take a closer look at the scope of work and the principle of installation of the structure.
Interior decoration Windows are most often made of plastic panels First you need to remove the remaining foam from work surface, treat the openings with an antifungal agent and install a layer of waterproofing. Pay attention to the sealing of the window under the window sill: the free space must be carefully filled with foam to prevent future blowing.
The space under the window sill is carefully sealed with foam
The starting profile needs to be attached around the perimeter of the window frame, and the rail should be placed along the outside. This is an important installation part on which the profile fastenings for slopes are mounted.. This can be done with the staples of a construction stapler. Be sure to check the thickness of the slats: if there are slight deviations, use a thin shim.
Next, the panels need to be placed between the prepared profiles. You need to start working on the upper side of the window frame, moving to the lower ones. First, the plastic is inserted into the starting profile and secured well, after which you can use a sealant.
Silicone sealant is used to seal joints Before you start fixing the second side of the plastic, a layer of mineral wool. This step will improve the sound and heat insulation function. Having successfully attached the slopes along the top of the window, you can install the side panels in a similar way. At the end of the work, the joints and the connection strip with the window sill are covered with a thin layer of liquid plastic, and the excess is carefully removed.
Even an inexperienced craftsman can seal windows after installation, since the methods are simple to perform and do not require high labor costs. Ready-made structures made of plastic or plaster will delight you with their neat appearance and reliability. It is only important to follow the technology and stock up on knowledge on how to properly and efficiently seal a window.
These days you won’t surprise anyone - they have been installed for a long time and everywhere. Meanwhile, consumers constantly complain about poorly performed work. It is logical to assume that unscrupulous installers are to blame. But in reality, everything is not so simple.
Let us remind you how the technological chain is built in the window business. Manufacturers of system PVC profiles supply their products to processing companies that manufacture and install windows.
A short video commentary on choosing a profile plastic windows: Which PVC profile is better?
However, there is no consensus on window installation technology yet. The stumbling block turned out to be the installation seam, or rather, the method of its execution.
Reference: installation gap- the space between the surface of the wall opening and the frame of the window (door) block. Assembly seam- an element of the junction unit, which is a combination of various insulating materials that are used to fill the installation gap and have specified characteristics. Definitions are extracted from the current state standard GOST 30971-2002.
It would seem that there is regulatory documentation that must be followed - GOST 30971-2002 “Seams of assembly units connecting window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions" and GOST R 52749-2007 "Window installation joints with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications" However, according to Federal law No. 184-FZ “On technical regulation” dated December 27, 2002 GOSTs, and with them SNiPs and other technical regulatory documents moved into the category of recommendation literature. Only those norms that are directly related to safety are accepted for mandatory implementation. And as a result, organizations involved in window installation may, on completely legal grounds, not comply with the provisions of GOST 30971-2002 and GOST R 52749-2007. And if the client insists, he will be politely offered to pay double.
However, the situation is not hopeless. The fact is that GOST standards become mandatory if this is written down in a contract or project (that is, these documents indicate that installation must be carried out in accordance with current state standards). On the other hand, if an organization does not recognize GOSTs, it must still work according to some regulatory document that is accepted as mandatory within this organization. It’s another matter if the client signs the contract without reading it. Unscrupulous companies only count on this. If a conflict situation arises regarding poor-quality installation, the indignant client will be told something like this: “You yourself wanted all the windows in your house to be installed in one day, and you gave your consent to all our actions!”
Why do some window companies dislike the current (but, unfortunately, optional) regulatory documents so much? Some clarification is needed here. GOST 30971-2002 and GOST R 52749-2007 require filling the assembly seam with heat-insulating foam, and to protect it from atmospheric influences using vapor-permeable self-expanding tape (PSUL). To fulfill these requirements, you need to prepare the opening - level it, and fix weak surfaces with a primer. But such preparation relates to general construction work, and window installers seem to have nothing to do with it. So they put windows in crooked openings. As a result, the installation gaps have different widths, or even a zigzag shape. Closing such, so to speak, cracks with tape becomes problematic. If it is impossible to use PSUL, the assembly joint, as a last resort, is plastered with a vapor-permeable, weather-resistant cement-based composition (and in winter time- quick-setting cement-polymer mixture). Another option: the installation seam is covered from the outside with a vapor-permeable waterproofing tape, and then a flashing is installed (such products are included in the systems of all leading manufacturers of plastic windows).
Before ordering new windows, it is worth studying at least in general terms the features of their manufacture and installation. When communicating with employees of window companies, you need to clarify all controversial issues regarding quality assurance installation work. And most importantly, you need to protect yourself legally when concluding an agreement. Be sure to insist on including clauses regarding the regulatory framework. Any statements that the contract is standard and cannot be rewritten indirectly indicate that not everything is in order with the company’s standards.
Particular attention should be paid to installing windows in winter:
If the windows were installed incorrectly and after some time puddles appeared on the window sills, or the slopes became damp and moldy, or the sashes stopped opening, you must immediately file a claim and, if necessary, go to court. Effective support can be found in the Consumer Rights Protection Society and expert organizations. Independent experts will figure out how technically justified the regulatory documents (if they are not state standards) that guided the hapless company that manufactured and installed the window. And besides, the consumer will receive an official conclusion about violations committed during the installation of the window structure. In court, such an argument can be decisive. By the way, the chances of winning the case and getting your money back are very high.
The junction of the window block to the wall opening also includes a part of the enclosing structure in the opening of which the window is mounted. Let's say, if you put a product with a mounting box depth of 58 mm in the opening of a brick wall with a thickness of 2.5 bricks (610 mm), then in winter under certain conditions ( high humidity indoors, lukewarm radiators, poor ventilation) there is a high probability of the wall freezing in the area of the mounting seam. To prevent this from happening, you need to insulate the slopes. In this case, it is advisable to exclude the use of drywall. Underneath it forms air chamber, in which condensation actively accumulates. Moisture penetrates the drywall finish and destroys it. It is better to use plastic slopes with insulating liners or sandwich panels. At the same time, it is advisable to install windows with a wide frame (120 mm) in brick walls, which ensures an increase in temperature on the internal slopes. In this case, the window block is moved inside the room, the window niche is reduced, which improves the convection of warm air near the surface of the window. In addition, the installation seam expands, which means its resistance to heat transfer increases.
A vapor barrier tape should be laid on the inside of the installation seam; it will not allow vapors to penetrate into the thermal insulation foam and will prevent the formation of condensation, and therefore the wetting of the insulation.
You should also make sure that the window installation itself is done correctly and the window will not fall out under wind loads.
And after everything that you have already read and watched, let’s move on to the actual typical mistakes installation of plastic windows:
 | Quarter opening in brick wall laid out unevenly. As a result, when installing the window, a “torn” gap formed. The polyurethane foam was not protected in time. Under the influence of sun, rain and snow, it gradually collapses. |
 | Here the mounting foam was cut off and the seam was lightly painted with sealant. It is clear that such sealing is of little use, and soon “foam thermal insulation” will not be happy. |
 | There is an obvious disregard for the requirements for working with window acrylic sealant. Under external influence it shrank and split. As a result, depressurization of the assembly seam occurred. |
 | There are no complaints about the window on the left. But they installed a product nearby that did not fit the size of the opening. Perhaps this is due to an incorrectly laid out quarter. True, this defect would have been noticed and taken into account during the manufacture of the window. Another explanation is that the owners purchased a ready-made window for the occasion. The gap was filled with polystyrene foam and foamed. At the same time, the glazing area of the opening was reduced. In addition, the installation seams remained open. If they are not closed, the thermal insulation will be destroyed. |
 | And this is an example of the “unheard-of generosity of the installers. They not only applied sealant to the assembly seam, but also “painted” the slopes. In other words, they disfigured the already not very aesthetic facade. |
 | The backing cord made of foamed polyethylene (such as Vilatherm) does not fit in with the impressive façade and elegant window. Such cheap insulation is made from a recycled product. The material is also used for thermal insulation window openings. In this case, the vilatherm should be located inside the assembly seam and not protrude beyond its boundaries. |
 | Another example of a careless attitude towards polyurethane foam, which, apparently, was left in the care of the owners. At the same time, the vertical seams are made decently. Even the PSUL is glued. |
 | One can only be surprised at how barbarically the installers dealt with these openings. The old windows were torn out and new ones were installed in their place without preparation. And no one took care of the seams and finishing of the slopes. |
 | The window opening was left to the mercy of fate. Without proper finishing, the steel lintel rusted. the thermal insulation liner fell out of the foam, and the mounting foam almost collapsed. |
 | The builders “forgot” to install the casing. When the log house shrinks, the logs will put pressure on the frame, which can lead to difficult opening of the sashes, deformation of the profile and even destruction of the double-glazed windows. |
 | . If you buy a low-quality product, then instead of a dense, finely porous filling you will get this “fluff”. It’s better not to take risks and buy foam from trusted brands in stores and supermarkets. |
 | And in this case, the insidious condensate “tried.” True, windows have nothing to do with it. Obviously, the owners decided to force the issue and began finishing the house in the winter. In a waterlogged atmosphere, with insufficient ventilation and heating that has not yet been adjusted, condensation moisture accumulates on cold slopes, which provokes the appearance of mold. |
 | During installation, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion of the PVC profile. This window was out of luck. Probably, the fastening elements are positioned too low (the norm is no lower than 15-18 cm from internal corners boxes). The block was installed at a positive 20-degree temperature. The cooling caused compression of the plastic, and as a result, the profile ruptured. |
 | To prevent the metal casting from rattling when it rains, it is laid on polyurethane foam. But without proper protection from the sun and atmospheric moisture, sound insulation will soon turn into dust. |
 | The window was placed not on special mounting wedges (or even on wooden “blocks”), but directly on two layers of polystyrene foam, “glued together” with mounting foam. The window block will sag under its own weight. And the “defenseless” stand will collapse. |
 | The installers sealed the seams, but left a hole at low tide. Through it, water will penetrate into the seam and then flow down onto the slopes. Until the owners figure out what's going on. |
 | The builders forgot to install steel flashings that ensure effective removal of precipitation. However, perhaps they acted on the orders of short-sighted owners or, even worse, an architect ignorant of such matters. The consequences were not slow to make themselves felt. As you know, water wears away stones. The decorative lining of the slopes has already cracked in some places. The double-glazed windows are not washed warm air(standard radiators cannot be installed under windows). As a result, they fog up even at above-zero temperatures. |
 | This opening was treated cruelly. Not only did they fill everything they could with a very strange liquid foam, but they also did not remove the stains from the window frame and the wall. And most importantly, the window opening is not thermally insulated. |
One of the most vulnerable places in the house, where heat loss most often occurs, is the windows. Of course, it is impossible to provide ideal heat and noise insulation in this place, but everyone can reduce the noise level and heat loss to a minimum. The thing is that the cause of increased noise and heat loss is the cracks in the windows. This applies not only to old wooden windows, but also more modern metal-plastic ones. We will talk about how and what to cover cracks in windows in this article.
Causes of cracks in windows
As one wise man said, it is better to eliminate the cause of the disease than to constantly treat the consequences. The same should be done with cracks in windows. To do this, it is enough to understand the reason for their appearance and eliminate it once and for all.
Reason one: crooked installation
It's no secret that the level of professionalism of the craftsman determines how durable and reliable a particular structure will be. It's the same with windows. Mistakes at the window installation stage lead to drafts coming from under the window and noise from the street preventing you from sleeping.
It is almost impossible to control the quality of work. To do this you need to have certain knowledge. But something can still be done. You just need to check how well all the gaps between window frame and the opening. This can be done using a simple lighter, bringing its flame to the joints. You should also pay attention to outside windows. The places where the frame adjoins the opening must also be reliably caulked or blown with foam, and their surface must be painted over or puttied. The same is true on the inside.
Reason two: wear of the seal
Unfortunately, timeless building materials do not yet exist, and during use, cracks appear in the windows. And in combination with installation errors, their service life will only decrease.
The same places where the window frame meets the opening are problematic. If for some reason the sealing materials have not been painted or plastered, they will quickly wear out under the influence of temperature changes, ultraviolet radiation, wind and precipitation. Polyurethane foam, even that which is intended for external work, becomes distorted, gradually exposing the voids between the window and the wall. Foam rubber or other sealant dries out, crumbles and blows out, thereby widening the cracks. To extend the life of the seal, it is enough to carry out an inspection every two to three years and maintain the integrity of the protective layer. It is best to do this in the spring, when it is already warm and there is no precipitation.
Reason three: wear of the frame and fittings
Just like the seal, window frames and accessories have their own resource. Over time, the sashes begin to fit poorly to the frame, resulting in cracks appearing. This is especially true for wooden windows. A characteristic problem wooden frames is the drying out of the wood, which leads to the appearance of cracks. But at metal-plastic windows Most often, the rubber seal on the doors fails.
It is impossible to avoid wear and tear, but it is possible to extend the service life. It is enough to carry out regular seasonal inspection and maintenance of windows. First of all, this means painting wooden windows and adjusting the fittings so they don’t dangle.
How to seal cracks in windows
Despite the fact that today most windows are made of metal-plastic, their owners after a certain time are faced with the problem of cracks in these ultra-modern and reliable windows. As for wooden windows, cracks are their inevitable companions. We will look at how you can get rid of cracks below.
How to remove gaps between the frame and the wall
If during installation the master did not apply a protective layer to the foamed areas, then over time the foam will collapse and gaps will inevitably appear. A gap between a window and a wall, a window and a window sill is a fairly common occurrence in such cases.
To eliminate them you will need:
- narrow spatula;
- long screwdriver;
- rags or a regular rag;
- newspaper or plastic film;
- gloves.
Materials you will need:
- white spirit;
- polyurethane foam;
- frost-resistant acrylic sealant; you can also use rubber-bitumen or polyurethane roofing sealant.
Important! Under no circumstances should you use silicone sealant. Under the influence of temperatures, it rolls down and becomes unusable, thereby exposing the foamed cracks.
Having acquired everything we need, we get to work. We start with preparation, namely eliminating the old foam. To do this we do the following:
- Unscrew 2 - 3 self-tapping screws on the low tide, if any.
- We begin to clean the gutter and substitution profile. Take a screwdriver and pry out the old brown foam. It crumbles quite easily, and the remains are blown out.
- Using the same screwdriver, we clean out the foam at the joints of the walls and window profile. To be on the safe side, you can use a brush to remove any remaining residue.
Important! At this stage, you will need another person for backup so that you do not accidentally fall out of the window.
Having finished with the preparation, we proceed directly to sealing the cracks. To do this you need to do the following:
- We take a balloon with foam and blow it into all the joints and cracks. To process narrow, hard-to-reach crevices, the feed tube spout can be flattened.
- Without waiting for the foam to dry completely, we fix the ebb.
- Let the foam dry for 24 hours.
- Using regular stationery knife cut off excess foam.
- We take a bottle of sealant and cut off its spout at an angle to make it more convenient to fill seams with it at different angles.
- Gradually squeezing out the sealant, apply it on top of the foam;
Important! At this stage, you will need another person for backup so that you do not accidentally fall out of the window. Remove excess sealant on the spout using a rag soaked in white spirit. The same rag can be used to remove any remaining sealant from the frame.
- Using a narrow spatula, level the sealant flush from the window towards the street and leave to dry.
- After the sealant has dried, it should be painted with regular paint. alkyd paint to protect from external influences.
Particular attention should be paid to the area under low tide. This is the most inconvenient place, so some skill will be required. But if everything is done correctly, the gap between the window and the sill will be eliminated once and for all.
How to remove gaps between the frame and the sashes
It was previously noted that cracks in plastic windows can also appear due to wear and tear. rubber seal. Eliminating such cracks is quite simple - you need to get a new seal and do the following:
- Carefully remove the old seal from the groove in the window frame.
- It is advisable to wipe the grooves and clean them from possible dust and dirt.
- Then we take a new seal and, using a special tool or a small wooden spatula, tuck it into the groove.
Important! To extend the service life of the seal, it must be treated once a year with a special silicone spray to protect it from drying out.
The described methods are suitable if you decide to eliminate cracks in wooden windows. But the following should be noted.
- First, during the preparation stage, wooden windows are checked for damaged or rotten glazing beads. If any, they should be replaced.
- Secondly, the seal between the frame and the doors can be rubber or foam rubber. But unlike metal-plastic windows, the seal is simply glued to the frame.
- Thirdly, foam rubber can be secured between the frames as a seal, but do not glue it.
The most reliable way to get rid of cracks in windows
Sealing cracks and protecting the seal from wear solves only part of the problem. Whatever one may say, you will have to update the protective layer from time to time. To avoid all this fuss, you need to create reliable protection. To do this you will have to make external slopes.
Materials required:
- plastic U-profiles 8 mm;
- plastic panels;
- polyurethane foam;
- sealant;
- primer;
- white spirit;
- three wooden spacers for the entire height of the window opening and three for its width.
From the tool you will need:
- mounting gun for sealant;
- jigsaw or hacksaw for metal;
- tape measure, ruler and marker.
All work on creating external slopes consists of the following:
- We clean the walls from dirt and construction paint.
- We take measurements of 3 slopes. First, we remove the size of the upper slope, then the side ones.
Important! Each slope is a trapezoid, so you should be careful when taking measurements.
- We mark future slopes on plastic panels and carefully cut them to the required size.
- For vertical panels We put a U-shaped profile on each side. Only for the top panel, the U-shaped profile is placed only on the outer and inside, and the side ones remain empty.
- We begin installation from the top slope. To do this, apply foam in a zigzag pattern to the rough side.
- We install the upper slope in place and place spacers under it. We install two spacers at the edges, and one in the center.
Important! To avoid damaging the plastic surface, you can place pieces of foam rubber or a rag under the spacers. The side slopes should be installed after the foam on the top slope has dried sufficiently and the spacers can be removed.
- We take the vertical slopes, apply polyurethane foam in a zigzag pattern and install them in their places. We install spacers.
- After the foam has dried, we begin sealing the outer part of the slopes. To do this, apply sealant and level it. Let it dry and paint with alkyd paint.
Important! When performing work on creating slopes, you can accidentally stain the panels with sealant or foam. Therefore, to remove blemishes, we use a rag moistened with white spirit.
Creating external slopes is somewhat more troublesome than simply sealing cracks. But as a result, you will receive much more reliable protection for many years. In addition, it is better to get rid of cracks in windows in this way than to somehow seal them with simple polyurethane foam without a protective layer. Finally, I would like to note that the reliability of the protection depends on how careful you are when performing work. interior spaces from drafts and dampness.
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Sealing windows plays an important role, since without it moisture and cold air, which will significantly worsen living conditions. It is easy to carry out this procedure yourself. Many manufacturers offer high-quality, easy-to-use sealants and other materials for working with windows.
Why is sealing carried out?
How to seal seams?
- Silicone sealant can be used to treat seams. This is an excellent polymer for sealing windows. It is definitely worth sealing the room from the inside, but we must not forget about the seams of the structure. Depending on the condition of the window, how large the distortions are in the structure, the width of the seam can vary from 0.5 to 5 cm; if the distortion is very large, it will have to be plastered and painted, otherwise it will simply be impossible to fill such a large space with sealant.
- Caulk is not the only substance that can be used: polyurethane tape, which can expand, is also suitable for sealing gaps. It is well suited for closing joints between the window frame and the wall: the joint is elastic. However, this material is useful only if you need to close a crack no wider than 15 mm. Tape is often used for processing, but this material is quite expensive and requires protection from the external environment, like polyurethane foam.
What types of sealants are there?
Plastic windows can be sealed from the outside and inside using the same sealant, but it is important to choose the right type. Silicone materials are considered the most common. The base is silicone rubber, which is a reliable insulator from moisture and air. If visible curing is required, acetate or neutral sealants can be used. Such materials can fill cracks, protect metal parts from corrosion.
Acetate sealants cannot be used everywhere. The fact is that the material releases acetic acid, which promotes its expansion. It is harmful to human and animal health, therefore, when using such a sealant for interior work, it is necessary to ensure good access of oxygen to the room. However, this type of material has greater durability and strength than others.
Acetate-based sanitary silicone sealant is designed to seal cracks between building materials and finishing elements
It is best to use acetate sealant if the surface is smooth. On ribbed and textured types, the material is poorly fixed, and gaps may remain.
Neutral materials are convenient due to their high ability to repel moisture, are well suited for use on porous surfaces, so there is no problem if you need to seal the frame and concrete wall. In addition, it is convenient to use universal materials. The cost of such sealants is higher, but you don’t have to think about in what situations they can be used and in what situations they can’t.
When choosing a sealant, pay attention to the temperature conditions you can work with it, what temperatures are critical for the material.
Sealing is usually not difficult, since the materials for it can be purchased at any hardware store, and the window frame itself is sealed and does not require any intervention. If the profile is cracked, there is no point in soldering it or trying to plaster it. Window with serious mechanical damage Usually they change it because it is no longer airtight and cannot fully retain heat.
What to do if the windows are made of wood?
Sealing wooden windows follows approximately the same principle, however, quite often the frame itself can dry out and crack. Unlike plastic, it can be repaired; special putties are used for this. In addition, putty is used to seal the product in the place where the frame connects to the glass unit. To prevent the seam from allowing moisture to pass through, it is covered with a transparent sealant over the putty. Working with the frame and window opening is similar to the sequence discussed above.
Sealing a window will not cause any difficulties if you approach the job correctly. This process can be organized independently, spending a minimum amount of time and ensuring reliable protection of the room from cold air.