How to insert a metal-plastic window. How to properly install a plastic window with your own hands. Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Most homeowners choose to install plastic windows not only because of their excellent performance, but also because of the ease of installation. This process is simple due to the fact that the design provides very easy-to-install fasteners and additional parts that are included in the package of the window. Many people are interested in how exactly professional installers install windows. With the most minimal skills in using tools, any homeowner can install such windows.

Of course, as with the installation of any structural element, when installing PVC windows, you will need to observe a number of features and certain actions. It is advisable to carry out this kind of work with an assistant, even one who does not have any construction skills; when leveling the window, some difficulties may arise if you do this work alone. Proper execution of all installation nuances will help you complete the job accurately and save on the labor of hired workers.

Carrying out measurements and calculations

Before purchasing windows, you should take measurements of the openings - based on this data, you will place an order to the workshop. When taking measurements, you need to take into account whether they are a quarter or not. Foam concrete buildings are characterized by quarter openings, which greatly reduces heat loss. For an opening without a quarter, when ordering fiberglass windows, the length will be 5 cm less than the same parameter for the opening. 3 cm is subtracted from the value defined as the width of the opening. Gaps of 1.5 cm should be provided along the contour - they are necessary in order to carry out foaming. An additional 3.5 cm should be left at the bottom for installing the window sill. According to GOST, 2 cm should be left around the perimeter.

To take correct measurements for a quarter opening, measurements must be taken at the narrowest point. When ordering windows, add 3 cm to the measured width; the length does not change the value.

More often, PVC window structures are not installed in the middle of the opening, but at a depth of approximately 1/3 from the outer plane. But if you are going to install the structure yourself, you can move the window a little at your discretion. To order sills and window sills, you should definitely take these parameters into account. Add 5 cm to the widths calculated for the intended location of the windows.

When determining the width of the future window sill, it is necessary to take into account the battery - it should be covered by the window sill by about half. Add another 2 cm - the window sill will need to be placed under the base window frame. You need to leave a margin in length - at least 8 cm. But it will be much better if you add 15 cm - this allows you to cut the window sill more beautifully.

Plastic side plugs are usually included with ebb and window sills. You shouldn’t refuse them, although some masters do just that.

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Window frame installation methods

The technology for installing polyvinyl chloride windows does not depend on how many internal chambers are in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. When developing an installation plan, you will need to take into account the following points: the material from which the walls of the home are made, and the dimensions of the plastic window structure. Depending on this, the method of fastening and the devices that will be used are determined.

Plastic window frames can be fixed in the opening using the following elements:

using dowels, mounting anchors, which must be inserted into the walls through special through holes, which are performed in the profile in advance;
Another option is special toothed plates pressed into the profile, which are not embedded in the wall, but are placed “off-the-cuff” and fixed with screws.

Option 1 is considered the more reliable of them. It is more often used in cases where it is necessary to install window systems of considerable size and weight. Window frames with through fastening quite well resist various shock loads that can arise, for example, when using PVC systems with sashes that open in different positions. Anchors passing through the plastic frames allow more precise adjustment of the structure during installation both vertically and horizontally.

Those who want to find out the method correct installation PVC windows with small sizes, with solid double-glazed windows, you may be interested in fixing the structure using anchor plates. Fastening elements will not spoil the appearance of the window - they are covered by slopes.

To install anchor plates in wall openings made of brick or concrete, you will need to make recesses. If you do not do them, you will need to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Sometimes installers try to combine these 2 methods. The anchors are inserted into the walls through the bottom profile, that is, the base of the window structure and the sides of the frame, and the upper part is fixed using plates. If PVC windows are installed in a bathhouse built of wood, anchor plates should not be installed - they become loose during operation. In some cases, galvanized screws are used instead of anchors.

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The nuances of installing plastic windows in wooden buildings

The installation process will be significantly influenced by the type of material from which the housing is built. For example, for walls made of hollow or solid bricks, foam concrete, the differences will only be in the depth to which the anchors are installed. But openings in walls made of logs or beams will require a special approach. Here you will need to take into account the installation method and choose the right time for this.

Plastic windows can be installed in walls made of wooden building materials only a year after the construction of the house. It’s even better to wait 2 years - during this time the shrinkage process will enter the stage in which subsequent operation will be longer and more reliable. For buildings made of laminated timber, the shrinkage period lasts the fastest.

Window installation should not be carried out immediately in the opening, as is sometimes done in villages.

A plastic window should only be inserted into wooden box, which will protect the window structure from distortion. The window unit itself must be free of any damage; the presence of defects and rot is unacceptable. Before starting work, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition.

After the PVC windows are installed in place, the shrinkage of the log house does not end. True, it will not continue as intensely. To prevent it from causing crushing damage to plastic structures, it is recommended to leave a gap of 3-7 cm between the top edge of the frame and the window frame. After the window is put in place, the gap is filled with jute insulation and closed on both sides with platbands.

The building codes do not contain precise recommendations on what materials should be used to install ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. As a rule, standard sills are installed, which are ordered in one set with the window design. Window sills can be made of wood or polymers. The bottom profile can be supported on a wooden window sill, that is, it can be installed before installing the window.

For those who are planning to install windows themselves, but do not have much experience in this matter, the following information may be useful. Since wood allows moisture vapor to pass through well, the technical qualities of the polyurethane foam used to install the window are seriously reduced. To ensure that the foam blown around the perimeter of the structure is not exposed to moisture and does not get wet, a foil polyethylene tape should be applied to the window block along the line on which it is applied. This nuance is not specified in the regulations, but experienced installers highly recommend not neglecting such equipment when installing a window.

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Standard methods for installing plastic windows

The technology for installing plastic window structures includes the use of polyurethane foam. In addition to providing insulation, it will add additional rigidity to the connection between the opening and the frame. Thus, a layer of polyurethane foam, obtained as a result of its polymerization, simultaneously protects the opening and fixes the structure. So that under the influence of unfavorable external influences the foam layer would not lose its technical properties, it is better to surround it with additional insulation.

As to when exactly to install PVC windows, the decision is made by the homeowners. You can also come across the opinion that it is better to do the installation not in summer, but in winter - in this case, all installation flaws will appear immediately and can be corrected very quickly. When choosing polyurethane foam for work, pay attention to the information on the composition - it should indicate at what temperature this product can be used. The foam will only cure at the temperature specified in its performance characteristics, so you should not use foam intended for use in extreme cold conditions for summer work, and vice versa.

You can read about how to carry out foaming in the instructions that the manufacturer attaches to a specific product. Usually foam starts from the bottom, gradually moving upward. Movements should be rotary and circular. To reduce the consumption of expensive material, it is better to blow out the foam in several stages, calculating segments of approximately 25-30 cm.

To shift the dew point, it is better to perform foaming with different densities. In practice, it looks like this: they try to compact the outer layer of foam less than the layer facing inward. The foam must be poured around the perimeter of the window frame as evenly as possible, without gaps or voids.

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How to prepare a window opening for work?

To install PVC windows, you will need to carry out preparatory work before work. Before installation, any contamination should be completely removed from the window opening: dust, construction garbage, particles old paint. When carrying out work independently, craftsmen should know that when installing a new plastic structure in a used wooden window frame, it is better to completely plan off the top layer. It is not reliable enough; it is better to remove it completely so as not to disturb the adhesion of the foam to the surface.

If the gap between the opening and window frame does not exceed 4 cm, they are filled only with foam. If the gaps are wider, it is better to partially fill them with other, cheaper materials. These can be pieces of timber, drywall, polystyrene foam, brick fragments and other construction waste.

When taking measurements, you need to take into account the type of opening - without a quarter or with a quarter, as well as its features and other elements in the form of a window sill and.

In the first option, you need to measure the clean opening vertically and horizontally.

In the second, measure the horizontal distance between the quarters at the narrowest point, adding another 30 mm to the resulting figure. In the vertical plane, the net distance from the lower plane of the opening to its upper quarter is measured, which determines the height of the future glazing.

We carry out the necessary calculations

In order to place an order without a quarter, you need to not only measure the net distance between the surfaces of the window opening, but also calculate it optimal size in the following way.

To do this, subtract 50 mm from the vertical distance to obtain the required height, and 30 mm from the horizontal distance to calculate the width. These gaps allow for a 15mm layer of foam around the perimeter of the window and 35mm underneath.

Another 50 mm is added to the measurements of the window sill and ebb to allow for insertion into the wall.

As a result, before going to the store and ordering components, you need to know six sizes: the height and width of the glass unit, the length and width of the window sill, the length and width of the ebb.

Preparation of tools, materials and components

You will need a standard set of tools home handyman: screwdriver, level, hammer drill, set of hexagons, jigsaw, knife, pencil and tape measure.

The materials you need to purchase are: polyurethane foam, silicone, putty, screws or dowels, etc.

And, of course, the set of components for installing double-glazed windows: window profiles, handles, fasteners, window sills, ebbs, etc.

Removing an old window

In the case of blind window frames, first the glazing beads and the glass they hold are pulled out. In the case of unlocking sashes, they are simply removed from their hinges along with the glazing. In the case when the structures are many years old, and the frames in them are loose and “walk” diagonally to avoid unnecessary problems and for safety, it is advisable to remove the glazing from them in advance.
Next, in order to pull out the frame itself, using a regular hacksaw, it is sawed through in several places. In some cases, this work is done using a grinder with a circle on concrete.
Having divided the frame into several parts with the help of a crowbar, a chisel, a crowbar and a hammer, they are separated from the window opening, to which they have “grown” during operation. In some cases, when a frame made of high-quality wood is well preserved, it can be left alone. But ideally, it should be dismantled so that the new glazing can be attached directly to the wall.
Using the same technology, used windowsills are removed, especially if they are made of wood. In the case of a concrete structure, it is crushed with a jackhammer; in the absence of one, you can get by with a crowbar and a sledgehammer. Again, if it is in good condition and there are no objective reasons to destroy it, this can be avoided. However, in this case, two things should be taken into account: firstly, plastic construction it is always warmer than concrete, so if there is a lack of heat, it is better to install it, and secondly, the old structure physically cannot ensure good contact with the new frame.
After dismantling the intermediate elements, the wall walls are inspected, cleared of debris and, if necessary, repaired. load-bearing surfaces opening.

Preparing a new window

A new window, if it has opening sashes, must be securely locked before installation so that it cannot accidentally open while manipulating it. It must be closed during foaming, sealing the cracks and fixing it in the frame, otherwise its plastic ribs can be bent in a semicircle by the expanding foam during the hardening process.

Before opening its doors, all fixing and insulating mixtures should be allowed to dry completely.– at least 12 hours after completion of work.

Many beginners make the mistake of thinking that by removing the protective film from its surface immediately before starting work, they are preparing it for installation.

This is not true, because this protection is needed most of all in order to avoid possible damage or contamination of the transparent coating during installation. Therefore, this tape can be removed only after all finishing work involving puttying, painting or installation of slopes.

Window installation

This operation begins by drawing markings on its frame for future fastenings, which are installed on all four sides of the frame at intervals of 700 mm. For lightweight single structures, large intervals not exceeding one meter are allowed. The extreme fastener is mounted with an indentation from its corner in the region of 50-150 mm. In terms of fastenings, the exception is double-glazed windows with a stand profile; they do not require fixing elements from below.
Fasteners are installed on the frame according to the markings. They are connected to it so that the self-tapping screw passes through the metal located in the frame itself, the so-called bent metal channel. For this purpose, we select special screws for metal with a diameter of 4 mm. They are already equipped with a drill tip. You can, of course, use simple 5 mm self-tapping screws, but in this case you will have to do double work, first drilling a 4 mm diameter hole for them with a drill, and then screwing them in. They are approximately equal in cost, but they differ in metal thickness, so the plates are sold with a thickness of 1.1 to 1.5 mm, and suspensions from 0.5 to 1 mm.
At the intended mounting points of fasteners on window opening make indentations. This operation is not done by eye or approximately, but I apply a window frame already equipped with clamps to the installation site, and exactly along the perimeter of the fasteners a recess with a depth of 20 to 40 mm is knocked out, its “imprint” on the surface of the opening directly, but the load-bearing material, be it stone or brick. The fixing elements will be immersed in these recesses flush with the opening.
The window is leveled in the opening, placing wooden chips under the frame where necessary. Such wedges can only be inserted opposite the transverse elements of the frame: under the horizontal planks at their intersection with the vertical ones and vice versa. Wedge installation procedure: two bottom and one top to adjust the bottom edge and horizon at the top. Next, two at the top to fix the frame up and down. And then all the remaining wedges from left to right, and of course on both the bottom and top sides of the frame. If there is an impost, it is also wedged in such a way that all vertical planks are strictly parallel to each other. Aligning the wedges takes up the lion's share of the time of the entire installation process. But this is exactly what the correct positioning of the frame in the window opening will depend on, both in the vertical and horizontal planes.
Fix the glass unit in the opening. Once the position of the window is adjusted as perfectly as possible, it can be secured. To do this, use either dowels or anchors. The second option is, of course, more expensive, but also more reliable. In principle, a dowel installed in concrete can support a weight of up to 60 kg, which is more than enough for a window. Dowels for fixing in concrete, hollow brick, shell rock or foam concrete are used with a cross-section from 6 to 8 mm and a length from 75 to 80 mm.
Finally, the gaps between the window opening and the frame installed in it are foamed so that there is not even the slightest void left between them. Foaming technology in the case of crevices larger than 20 mm involves carrying out this operation in several stages, with several layers of foam and breaks of 1-2 hours for each layer to dry. In this case, it will be possible to minimize the deformation of the foam during its expansion, and reduce its useless waste, since the protruding edges would still need to be cut off. In the case when work is carried out at temperatures less than 5 degrees Celsius, ordinary summer foam will not work; it is recommended to use a special type, winter or all-season.

As a rule, the window sill part has a standard length and width with the necessary margin, which is cut during the installation process to the measurements of a specific window opening. This procedure is performed using a jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw with small teeth.

Next, the already cut part is adjusted to the stand profile, simultaneously setting it strictly according to the level, using the same technology as the part itself window system. It is advisable to place the plugs on the windowsill so that they fit into the opening in the wall. It is better to attach them with special glue, and not rely on silicone or acrylic, which are not intended for this.

Thus, in the end, the window sill element must be installed strictly level, so that a glass can be placed on it full of water without spilling it. It should not sag or sag in any place, even with strong hand pressure.

In some cases, the window sill is mounted with a slight slope, less than 3 degrees, towards the street, which is necessary so that the condensation that appears on the glass does not accumulate, but runs down the inclined window sill to the ground.

After completing the adjustment and fixing, you can fill the gap under the window sill with foam, and while it dries, about 12 hours, so that the foam does not lift it, you need to put something on it, for example, several bottles of water.

After about a day, when the foam has completely hardened, its protruding edge is cut off with a knife.

It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill element, after its installation a gap forms between its upper plane and the glazing frame. It must be filled with silicone, which tends to turn black with mold over time, which will undoubtedly ruin the appearance of a snow-white window.

Therefore, it is better not to hide such a defect, but to try to prevent its occurrence at the installation stage. This is done very simply - Z-shaped plates made of galvanized sheet are screwed to the plastic profile before it is fixed. In addition, such additional details make it easier to position the window sill.

Installation of slopes and platbands

Wooden slats are mounted along the inner perimeter of the window using screws 95 mm long. Using a square and a level, the position is also controlled.
The U-shaped starting profile is installed on the so-called bugs - very small self-tapping screws screwed directly into the frame. It is into this profile that the slopes will be inserted, so when installing it, special care is required in the operation of connecting its outer edges.
Using a stapler, the F-shaped profile is fastened. The groove of this profile corresponds to the groove of the previous one, and it is on them that the slopes will be held.
When the entire perimeter of the double-glazed window is equipped with two types of profiles, the slopes themselves are inserted into them.
At the final stage, platbands are installed sequentially on the plastic slopes: one upper and two side. To join each other, their edges are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Adjusting fittings

The position of the valves is adjusted using hexagons located near the hinges. To do this, use either a hex bit on a screwdriver, screwdriver or miniature wrench. Thus, in the process of their rotation, they achieve a position for the window sashes that would allow them to easily open and close without causing harm to other elements of the system.

It is also not considered normal for a slightly open sash to close on its own or, conversely, for a closed one to open.

They must remain in a constant position. Often, during the process of opening or closing, excessive friction with the locking hardware occurs, accompanied by corresponding sounds. To get rid of this, simply unscrew the screw that secures the corresponding fittings and move it up or down by 0.5-1 cm.

Installation of ebb tides

Usually ebb tides are attached to complete all installation work. It is better to mount them right under the window, so as to prevent water from leaking into the gap between it and the frame. However, sometimes this cannot be done, and the ebb is screwed directly to its frame using small metal screws with a cross-section of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.

Let's calculate the costs.
Time and money spent on self-installation.

The technology for installing a window with your own hands involves two operations: dismantling the old glazing and installing a new one, which in time corresponds to approximately 30-90 minutes to remove the old glazing from the opening and about 2 hours to install a new medium-sized double-glazed window, that is, up to 2x2 meters.

Thus, to replace the glazing in one window opening you will need to spend from 2.5 to 3.5 hours, which is quite a bit. After all, with such a pace of work, even in one day off you can independently change the glazing in several openings.

This time will not be wasted because by doing this work with your own hands you can be confident in the quality of the installation, and in addition, you can save a lot of money because the master will require payment from 2000 to 4000 rubles for each glazed opening.

Often, when ordering from a company that also provides installation services, the price for this procedure is charged as a percentage of 10 to 40% of the cost of the double-glazed windows themselves.

Is it worth installing windows yourself?

There are no difficulties in installing plastic profiles on your own, since they have an almost ready-to-use, modular design that does not require the assembly of individual parts. To insert and secure it in a window opening, you do not need to have any special technical education or expensive equipment.

Please note that installation is carried out at your own responsibility. which means you need to measure, select and order all the components and materials yourself.

Accordingly, the supplier’s guarantee will only apply to the double-glazed windows and fittings, and the quality of the seams, their filling, the verticality and horizontality of all parts, as well as the actual operability of the window are solely the responsibility of the individual who installed it.

If the order was made in installation organization, it provides a full guarantee on materials and installation quality from one to 5 years.

However, if you have at least a couple of days off, hard work and the desire to save money, you can change the glazing in your own home yourself, doing this job no worse than an entire installation team. In this case, the team means the foreman who actually installs the window profile and his assistant who gives him the tools.

Thus, when independently conducting all you need to do is call someone, a relative, acquaintance or friend for help, and in the speed of glazing you can compete with professionals, and the cost of paying someone else’s labor will be zero.

Common mistakes

When non-professionals install a double-glazed window on their own for the first time, they often make a number of common mistakes, which, at first glance, may not be obvious and uncritical, but, ultimately, affect the service life and comfort of the window structure:

The profile is installed with glazing beads on the street, which makes the house completely defenseless for unauthorized persons to enter. To do this, they just need to remove the glazing beads and simply pull the double-glazed windows out of the openings.
Installation is carried out as is, that is, without checking and adjusting the level, which results in problems with the functioning of the structure.
Foaming the cracks using a can of polyurethane foam, do not read the instructions for it, which say about its vulnerability to ultraviolet radiation. This means that in order for it to remain intact, the cracks with it must be covered with cladding.
Fixing the structure simply by foaming the cracks without securing it in any way in the opening. Such a mistake in the case of an opening with a quarter can, in extreme cases, lead to cracking of the slopes, since the foam does not guarantee the immobility of the frame, which, when displaced, will break them. In the case of an opening without a quarter, the glass unit may, over time, under the influence of vibration or other factors, generally fall out onto the street.

Not recommended for dismantling any wooden structures, and in particular the old frame, use a metal cutter, since it is not suitable for this. Such a thin disc, rotating at a speed of 7000 revolutions per minute, can easily get stuck or deformed on the first knot, which is extremely dangerous for the operator and others. This is also true for a toothed disc on wood.
So that one of the household members does not accidentally ruin the work, if you accidentally open the sash at the stage of foam hardening, it is best not to install the opening handle at this time; without it, even out of ignorance, it will be impossible to open it, and in the case of solid frames, this nuance is not at all relevant.

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can’t argue with that.

An acquaintance recently contacted me asking whether it was possible to install windows himself.

He decided to build his own country house, to occupy oneself, so to speak, after retirement, and prepares an information base regarding each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, came in handy. I outlined a brief action plan for him, and decided to consider all the issues in detail on my blog.

Find all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Installing plastic windows with your own hands is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

However, to install correctly plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We present to your attention instructions for installing plastic windows yourself.

Technology and procedure for installing plastic windows with your own hands

The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:

Removal of old windows (if replacement is being carried out).
Preparing a new plastic window.
Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
Attaching fasteners to the window frame.
Creating recesses in the wall where fasteners are attached.
Inserting and aligning a plastic window horizontally and vertically.
Fixing the window in the opening using fasteners at the holes for them.
Foaming (filling with foam) the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
Installation and alignment of the window sill.
Installation of slopes.
Adjusting window fittings.
Installation of ebb from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house, cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then installation of the drip tide must be done after installing windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and the rubber gasket, and with light blows knocks the glazing bead out of the groove), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, it is easy to level and install the drip pan through the window.

Before installing the window, a stand profile is installed.

It's as easy as shelling pears: place the profile in in the right place, align horizontally and foam.

But before foaming, it is better to place a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.

If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the bottom groove of the window.

If the profile is not provided in the package, then you need to place blocks under the window to the height of the window sill in order to secure the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.

First, you need to attach the fasteners to the window that will hold it in place. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is done with a metal self-tapping screw about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you are installing a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fastening screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall using dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After this, in future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch holes under the entire fastener plate, so that we can then cover the entire fastener with mortar and level the wall for installing the slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal positions again. Therefore, you should not immediately screw the screws into the opening completely.

It is better to do the leveling work together, so that one person holds the window, and the second places the bars for leveling. We proceed to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with polyurethane foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Note!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a spray gun, for example). This is the only way the foam will adhere to the structure of the walls as much as possible.

If you are installing a window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-season or winter foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After this, it must be protected from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with regular mortar, tile adhesive, or a protective impermeable film.

Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of the excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.

A jigsaw or grinder is perfect for these purposes. Then you should move the window sill to the support profile (if there is one) and level it.

If after leveling there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, having first removed the window sill.

If everything is fine, then simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the windowsill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it fits clearly into the opening along with the plugs. The best way to glue the plugs to the window sill is with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, you need to check it for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Helpful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, having first pressed down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) to prevent the foam from bulging upward. The next day, excess foam under the window sill can be removed with a regular knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very slight slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensation does not leak between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the required length (two for the height of the opening, the third for the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out using polyurethane foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this purpose, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebb tides on plastic windows

The ebb tide is installed very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with self-tapping screws to the stand profile and foamed.

After installing the plastic windows, the fittings are adjusted and a mosquito net is installed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in upcoming articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.

Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost quite a significant amount of money, but the costs for them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.

In this case, the savings will approximately range from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each double-glazed window installed independently.

Just in this article on our blog, DIY construction and repair, we will consider in detail the issue of installing plastic windows yourself.

At the end of the article you will also find a video on how to install plastic windows yourself according to GOST.

Installation of a plastic window - stages:

Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window, with and without unpacking.
Fastening elements - types of fastening elements, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffusion tape, what should be placed where - diagram.
Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
Installation of low tide - diagram, recommendations for the use of polyurethane foam.
Assembling the window - we assemble the window after unpacking.
Installing a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
Installation of slopes - installation plastic slopes do it yourself step by step, diagram.

Today there are two methods for installing metal-plastic windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The installation method with unpacking is carried out with preliminary process disassembling a glass unit:

- remove glazing beads

- the glass is removed from the frame and placed in a certain place until it is installed.

After this, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through and through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Please note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances that we will focus your attention on.

Because this particular one is more labor-intensive but more safe method(For plastic double glazed windows) installation we chose to write the article and of course it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with your own hands.

Helpful advice!

When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, since careless manipulations with glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows may accidentally break during the process of removing and transferring them, but if everything is done carefully, nothing terrible will happen.

If you carry out this process without unpacking, then removing the glass and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fastening parts pre-installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for large windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that using the first technology to install a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough of the theory, let’s get down to practice.

A window usually consists of several parts. These parts may be blind or be an opening flap.

Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing the glass unit.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, you must remove the double-glazed windows from the blind (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (a glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the glass unit) are not hammered in completely and can be easily removed.

If, after all, the manufacturer has sunk the glazing beads completely, you need to insert a small spatula into the seam between the glazing bead and the window frame and carefully tap with a mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery to try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give way and the plastic fasteners begin to come out of the grooves, they need to be assembled, since we will need them when installing the glazing beads back.

We don’t think it’s worth reminding that everything needs to be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to carry out this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which on average weighs 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.

And one more thing, you need to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, or even better, lean the double-glazed window(s) against the wall; if there are several of them, then lay a layer of a soft, clean rag between them.

In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, you need to open it slightly to gain access to the hinges.

Dismantling the opening sash must begin with disassembling the top hinge.

To do this, you need to remove the spindle (the rotating shaft inside the loop), you first need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.

Hooked bottom part Using pliers, remove the spindle downwards accordingly.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, you need to slightly tilt the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash by approximately 5 cm.

After this, the sash will be freed from the second lower hinge. To carry out this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fastening elements.

Fastening elements, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed along the entire perimeter starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between bolts being 700 mm and the minimum being 150 (see diagram below).

Also, the fastenings should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both above and below to impart rigidity to the structure of the plastic window.

Types of fastening.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

Fastening using a concrete screw.
Dowel nails with anchor plates.
Fastening with an anchor bolt.

When installing plastic PVC windows With our own hands, according to GOST, we choose the fastening method using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fastenings, where you don’t have to think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with an anchor bolt.

concrete - 40 mm
solid brick - 40 mm
Shell brick – 60 mm
porous blocks natural stone— 50 mm

Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials; this is dictated by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates inside the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If the outer contour of the seam is made as tight as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when constructing assembly seams, it is always necessary to observe the principle that the inside is tighter than the outside.

For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and load-bearing wall less than 40 mm, use PSUL; if this distance is more than 40 mm, then diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, like diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame; they are designed to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure external environment, as well as so that moisture can escape from the assembly seam during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that ideally it is necessary to use diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

You can see an example with diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically presented in the diagram below.

Preparing the opening.

The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion is the adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and/or liquid bodies).

The frame of the window block is installed in the opening; the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but should be installed on load-bearing supports; for this, plastic wedges can be used.

These wedges are installed under the corner and impost joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

To level, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the rebated part in practice is not always level, due to the fact that it could be deformed at the time of drilling.

After this, you need to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and then in the wall.

After this, it is necessary to insert anchor bolts into the drilled holes, but not all the way, in order to be able to level the frame.

After all the anchors have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed level and if everything is fine, we recess the anchor bolts and screw in the anchors, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.

Low tide installation.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is installing the ebb. The sill can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or you can use the old one, if of course it is in good condition.

The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).

The time has come when it is necessary to use polyurethane foam.

During the work process, the temperature of the cylinder with mounting foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator gun and on the cylinder itself.

Note!

Polyurethane foam is used for gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening using a less expensive building material - for example, brick or polystyrene foam.

Window assembly.

After we have installed the window frame and sill, all external work on installing a PVC window with our own hands is completed and you can return the sash and double-glazed window.

First we install the double-glazed window.

To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame; it would be good if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at this moment you inserted the beadings onto the guides and, with gentle blows of the mallet, seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clamps).

Then you need to install the window sash, to do this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).

When installing a window sill, it must be pre-cut.

Then attach it tightly to the support profile, after that we level the window sill using a level and lay down various materials.

The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensation, but under no circumstances should it sag.

After 12 hours, when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and excess foam must be trimmed.

Helpful advice!

The weight was intended to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.

It is very undesirable for there to be a gap between the window sill and the frame; if there is one, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing you need to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden strip to the perimeter of the window (inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).

Fastening should be done with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The plank should not stick out from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.

To make the slopes even, you need to level the planks using a level.

After this, we attach the U-shaped starting profile to the outer window frame. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as carefully as possible.

The next step is to install the F-shaped profile; it is fastened with a construction stapler.

The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; the slopes will be placed in these grooves. In the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or with iron scissors, because this groove overlaps the upper part of the window.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you can’t get the seams to fit exactly, you can coat them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day.

To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that had optimal thermal characteristics

— with a four-chamber window profile
- and double-glazed windows
— as well as a reinforced entrance door.

By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order.

And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door.

First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there).

For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam.

The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings to fit standard window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window.

We calculate the final dimensions of the window taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam.

At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3-centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, you need to subtract 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically from the internal dimensions of the opening.

You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows.

In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).

The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose any useful glazing area. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, screws, sealing tape PSUL, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs on total amount 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Note!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that you cannot skimp on measuring instruments.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place.

The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience.

Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates.

Helpful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on outside It is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge of the frame, especially if you have deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon.

This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, tighten the self-tapping screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base.

Note!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates.

Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone.

I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward.

3 on each side, except the bottom.

Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

On large windows At the bottom there is a support profile in which the window sill will be installed.

Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame.

On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation.

Helpful advice!

Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Move to the front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.

I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output.

Helpful advice!

There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know.

First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and needs to be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed.

The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward.

It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.

It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth.

Note!

Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use cuttings from the window sill itself or wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up.

And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done!

Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.

By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

Nowadays, the trend of replacing old wooden windows with plastic ones is becoming more and more common. Such windows have a number of advantages that significantly distinguish them from their competitors. As a rule, window installation is carried out with the help of specialists who will cope with the task in a matter of hours. However, fast does not always mean good. Sometimes, in a hurry, craftsmen forget about various little things that they later have to finish on their own. To avoid such “professional” installation, you can install plastic windows yourself. The main thing is to write it down clear plan actions and follow all its points.

Window measurements

The first step is to measure the width and height of the window opening. Width is the distance between internal parts walls - slopes. Height - the distance between the upper slope and the window sill. Based on the obtained dimensions, you can calculate the size of the window. You need to subtract 3 cm from the resulting width (1.5 cm of gap on each side). You need to subtract 5 cm from the height (1.5 cm for the gap at the top and 3.5 cm for installing the window sill).

The size of the window sill and external ebb is calculated taking into account a gap of 5-10 cm. During installation, both the window sill and ebb are “recessed” into the window opening. The width of the window sill should be such that it does not overlap the heating radiator by more than 1/3. Measurements of slopes are carried out immediately after the installation of windows, since it is quite difficult to determine their size in advance.

Material selection

The selection of plastic windows is carried out according to several criteria at once. First, you need to decide on the principle of fastening the frame. It comes in two types:

through the frame in the packaging plane;
using pre-installed support reinforcement.

The first installation option is considered more reliable, but at the same time more complex. The principle is to unpack the window. The glass is removed from the frame. The frame is then inserted into the opening and secured to the wall using anchors. Double-glazed windows are reinserted into the finished frame. This method allows you to strengthen the window structure, but during installation the risk of damaging the glass increases.

The second method is to install the windows without first unpacking them. In this case, they are pre-attached to the window frame metal plates, with the help of which the window is mounted in the opening. This method is quite simple, but the reliability is significantly lower compared to the first option.

Another criterion when choosing plastic windows is the quality of the material. First, pay attention to the reinforcing profile, which serves as the basis of any window. It must be made exclusively of galvanized steel. If the window is made using a different metal, then later it will become covered with rust and red streaks will appear on the window.

No less important is the choice of the double-glazed window itself. For unheated rooms, you can choose a single-chamber package; for an apartment, house or office, it is better to give the room to two- or three-chamber models. The glass itself can be either plain or with infrared coating. IR glasses, by the way, will become great solution for windows facing east. Infrared rays are capable of reflecting heat, so even in the hottest summer days the room will be comfortable.

Preparatory work before installation

Before installing a new window, you need to dismantle the old one. This is done in stages. First, the glass is removed from the window frame, after using a chisel to pry the glazing beads that hold it in place. If this is not done during installation, the glass may break and injure you. Next you need to cut the frame. This can be done either with a regular saw or with a grinder. However, it is worth remembering that the grinder can only be used if you have a diamond disc or a concrete disc. To avoid injury, it is strictly forbidden to use discs on wood and metal. Having cut the frame into pieces, you can begin to dismantle it, armed with a hammer drill, crowbar or nail puller.

The next step is to remove the old window sill and flashing. If they are wooden, then the same principle is used for dismantling as for the frame. The window sill or ebb needs to be cut into several parts and pulled out one by one. With a concrete window sill, things are somewhat more complicated. It can only be removed by first breaking it into pieces using a jackhammer.

Having gotten rid of the old window, you can start finishing preparatory work. The window opening must be thoroughly cleaned of construction dust and debris generated during the dismantling process. This can be done using a regular vacuum cleaner. It is also worth removing the remnants of old insulation and polyurethane foam.

After all the work carried out, the surface of the window opening must be treated with a primer. Next, a so-called stand profile is installed at the bottom of the future window, to which the glass unit itself will be attached in the future. The profile is secured using polyurethane foam.

Window installation

If the method of unpacking the glass unit was chosen to install a plastic window, then the process will proceed as follows. The first step is to remove the glass from the window frame. To do this, carefully remove one by one all the glazing beads that hold the glass in place. Then the glass is smoothly removed from the frame at a slight angle. After unpacking the double-glazed window, it is better to immediately remove the glass to another room so as not to damage it during installation of the frame.

To begin with, the window frame must be installed on pre-prepared wooden wedges. This is necessary so that the frame initially takes the desired position and does not move during installation.

Armed with a drill, holes are made in the frame for anchors (three holes on each side). After drilling all the holes, you should make sure that the frame has not moved. To do this, you can use a plumb line and laser level. It is better not to use a traditional bubble level, as it does not provide the most accurate measurements.

After making sure that all indicators are normal, you can attach the window with anchors. To do this, using a hammer drill at the level of the holes already existing in the frame, you need to make similar holes in the wall, at least 6 cm deep. Next, the anchors are fastened, starting from the bottom row. After each anchor is attached, the evenness of the window is rechecked.

At the stage of mounting the window frame, the ebb and flow is installed. It is attached to the stand profile, which was pre-installed under the frame. The edges of the ebb need to be “recessed” a little into the wall, after making holes in it. At the end of installation, all existing joints and cracks on the outside of the window are sealed with sealant.

Having completed all the above manipulations, glass can be inserted into the frame.

Installation of a plastic window without unpacking is carried out according to a similar principle. The only difference in this process is that the package in this case is not disassembled, but mounted completely. The window structure is fastened without the use of anchors, but with the help of special plates.

Just as in the first case, the double-glazed window is installed on a pre-prepared support profile and wooden wedges. The window is then leveled and checked with a level. TO window profile plates made of durable metal are screwed with self-tapping screws. They can be linear or U-shaped. The distance between the plates should not exceed 7 cm.

The plates have so-called tails with holes for anchors. During installation, the tails must be bent and pressed tightly against the wall. A dowel is inserted into the existing hole and mounted into the wall using a drill. In this case, the anchors are fastened from bottom to top. At each stage of screwing in the dowels, the window undergoes a leveling check.

Window sill installation

Installation of a metal-plastic window sill begins with cutting it. The shape of the window sill should be such that it easily fits into the side openings and at the same time is in close contact with the lining profile. Between the side walls of the window frame and the window sill you need to leave a small gap (about 1 cm), which will later be covered by slopes.

Having placed the window sill in the desired way, you can begin to fasten it. To do this, several wooden wedges are inserted under the window sill, which will protect it from moving. Then the space formed under it is filled with polyurethane foam or cement mortar. In this case, you need to put some kind of weight on the window sill itself to create a slight slope. This manipulation is necessary to drain condensate.

When the foam or mortar has hardened, the window sill is attached to the window frame. This is done using self-tapping screws on the inside.

Slopes

The design of slopes is the final stage of installing metal-plastic windows. They can be made either using drywall or using PVC panels.

Drywall slopes are beneficial in cases where the surface of the inside of the window opening cannot be leveled. Such slopes are made as follows:

a special L-shaped profile is attached to the edge of the window frame;
the inside of the profile is filled with sealant;
pre-prepared strips of drywall are inserted into the grooves of the profile;
the empty space between the wall and the drywall is filled with mineral wool;
The places where the slopes come into contact with the wall are lubricated with glue.

Slopes made of PVC panels are somewhat easier to install, but they should only be used on perfectly flat surfaces. This is done like this:

Strips of the required size are cut from PVC panels;
using liquid nails, the workpieces are attached to the working surface;
the ends and joints between the slopes are closed with special plastic corners.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made from polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible of blue color. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between products from different companies. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Window profiles as standard have White color, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what is being discussed in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

Frames. This is the base of the window.
If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured rubber seal(it is usually black).
Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom of the outer side of the frame (the one facing the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged outside.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the most small value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is chosen. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, all construction debris must be removed. Ideally, sweep away everything, even the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” well with the wall during installation.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. If the wall material is loose, they can be treated with binding compounds: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is a setup for anchor bolt. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, and then they are attached to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in an area with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building - in these cases, installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the load-bearing capacity of which is low and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
      - Close the window (the handle is turned down).
      - Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
      - There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
      - Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.
      The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
    2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
      - Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
      - The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
      - Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
      - This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
      - With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.
      Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.
  1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.
  2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
  3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.
  4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Another anchor is installed between them in a standard window: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
  5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required amount once.
  6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.
  7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
  8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.
  9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
  10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
  11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.
    When installing PVC windows with your own hands, foaming can be done in several stages - depending on the size of the gap
  12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
  13. Assemble all parts of the window. All that remains is the finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
  14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of durum varieties impregnated wood. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then install plastic windows yourself with mounting plates identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.