Preparing the bed for planting strawberries in August. Preparing a bed for strawberries. Selecting varieties and seedlings of garden strawberries

First of all you should choose right place. The best soil for strawberries is loamy or sandy loam - moderately or slightly acidic. An excellent place for strawberries, care and cultivation is loamy chernozems, the acidity of which is neutral. Preparation of a bed for strawberries should be carried out where there is no accumulation or lack of moisture. What does it mean?

Strawberries are less responsive to fertilizer application than other berry crops. It also does not tolerate high salt content in the soil, so fertilizers should be applied before planting. It is better to pay them in advance. When planting strawberries in the spring, the soil must be prepared in the fall. If planting strawberries is planned in the fall, then prepare the soil for two weeks. When digging the soil, it is necessary to add six to eight kilograms of rotted manure or compost, if the soil is poor, the dose is doubled.

To have good harvest, strawberry plantings must be carefully weeded, protected from pests and diseases, fed, and all tendrils on the plants must be promptly removed. If the weather is dry, strawberries need to be watered. Something special should not be missed with watering in August, when the process of laying and forming flower buds for next year’s harvest occurs. The soil around the strawberry plants and between the rows is mulched with sawdust or straw. In this case, there is no need for weeding and the soil remains loose and does not evaporate moisture. Mulch protects strawberry roots from overheating and drying out in summer, and from freezing in winter.

The straw is raked to the edge of the ridge, because it will still be useful. When planting strawberries, old leaves are cut off, leaving only young and green ones. Strawberry plants and row spacing should be treated with drugs against diseases, or a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Sow the row spacing with Shrovetide radish or rapeseed. By October, a large mass of them grow green, thereby preventing weeds from growing. Late in the fall, apply this excellent fertilizer to the soil with a hoe. Before a long cold spell, strawberry bushes and row spacing are covered with leftover straw.

The main countermeasure viral diseases This is the use of healthy planting material. Strawberry plantings suffer most from leaf spot. This disease manifests itself in the second half of summer, most often on old leaves, where the fungus overwinters. Mandatory removal of affected leaves is the main treatment for this disease.

Nowadays, everyone chooses for themselves how to prepare a bed for strawberries - fertilize the plain in the old fashioned way and plant seedlings, or make a bed that is as easy to use as possible, to which you need to bend down and which is conveniently watered - from above (including watering a dozen bushes). In addition, harvesting from such a bed for strawberries is a real pleasure, in contrast to old methods, when the berries, when ripe, lay on the ground and were often surprised various types rotted before it was collected, or simply became dirty.

In addition, there is an opinion that strawberries should not be grown in one place for three years - they become smaller and lose their taste and aroma. Therefore, vertical beds for strawberries, having taken root on your site, can become a fresh trend in your experience of growing strawberries. They can even be built from barrels, if this is to your taste as a designer, or you can simply delve into the process of improving the strawberries themselves and experience various ways growing this berry - in hanging bags, in lawn pots, in flowerpots and other unusual containers adapted for strawberries, Victoria or wild strawberries. Experiment, create, create the best for strawberries and for yourself!

The paradox of this plant is that it loves moisture very much, but cannot tolerate being oversaturated with it, so beds for strawberries must be made at some elevation. The convenience of a raised ridge lies not only in the fact that it looks neat and water does not stagnate there, but also in the fact that it is convenient to remove weeds and generally care for bushes, removing excess tendrils and dried leaves.

If your soil is poorly fertile and lacks humus and humus, then you must fill the strawberry beds with humus or compost. Organic fertilizer for strawberry bushes there can be apples - carrion. In fertile years there are a lot of them and the best thing you can do is put them in beds and they will turn into compost.

The amount of fertilizer required for application is determined for each individual case and depends on the fertility of the soil. On soils where fertilizers are regularly applied to the previous crops in crop rotation, and also after a single application of humus, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to the soil under the predecessor, strawberries consistently produce high yields. Increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers(as experience has shown) are not always appropriate. Application large quantity humus and perennial cultivation strawberries in one place contributes to the accumulation of weeds.

Such areas are unsuitable for planting industrial plantings. The middle part of the slope is most suitable for planting strawberries. But with good drainage, which ensures water flow, strawberries can be grown at the bottom of the slope. The direction of the slope is practically irrelevant. However, on the southern slopes the snow melts much faster, which can early spring lead to freezing of the leaves and root system. On northern slopes, snow melts more slowly, so such damage is less common.

Gardeners go to great lengths to minimize the effort they put into it while still getting the maximum yield. Such subtleties include planting strawberries in the spring under a black film. For those who are interested in this method of processing this beloved berry, it will be very useful to read this article.

Before planting strawberry bushes, dig up the beds and clear the rhizomes of the previous ones. cultivated plants and weeds, you should also destroy the larvae of the cockchafer and wireworm. After digging, level the beds with a rake and sprinkle with sand, which serves as a good preventative against slugs, centipedes, snails and other pests. After this, water generously and treat the soil with a solution copper sulfate. To prepare the solution, dilute two tbsp in ten liters of water. spoons of copper sulfate. After this, you can plant the seedlings in the prepared soil.

I turn away the edges of the cuts, make a hole with a spatula and plant the strawberries. I carefully straighten the roots in the hole so that they are not distorted and do not curl up. Lightly sprinkle with soil and water, holding the strawberry bush so that the growth point (heart) is flush with the surface. If the growing point is too high, the roots will be exposed after the soil settles, which will lead to the bush freezing in winter. If the heart gets too much sleep, it will rot.

Strawberries, especially garden ones, are a fairly unpretentious plant. It is quite capable of growing and bearing fruit “savage” in almost any soil. Nevertheless, every gardener dreams of getting as much quality harvest as possible. And you need to start with properly preparing the soil for planting.

Immediately select large roots, and carefully discard all plants. You can mix the top and bottom layers of soil so that the roots of the weeds from the bottom layer are on the surface, and the normal top layer is below. However, growing strawberries on agrofibre will be a more reliable weed control and does not require good physical preparation.

No less important point In preparing the soil is its moistening. Before planting, it needs to be well moistened for several days, but without fanaticism, otherwise the berry will have to be planted in a swamp. In subsequent days, the amount of watering should be reduced, maintaining humidity until the plants take root.

Before fertilizing the soil, you need to dig it up; instead of a shovel, a pitchfork is ideal for better loosening the soil. You need to start preparing the soil for planting strawberries several weeks in advance, then the soil will have time to compact. Otherwise, the strawberry rhizomes will be exposed, which is detrimental to the plant. If planting is carried out in early spring, then it is better to simply loosen the soil so as not to touch unheated layers.

The ridges are formed in the spring, shortly before planting seedlings of garden strawberries (strawberries). There is no need to rack your brains over the shape of the beds and come up with new options; a more practical one is a rectangular bed: it is convenient to maintain.

Strawberry beds are best placed in the warmest and sunniest part of the garden. Avoid lowlands, because even in late spring the soil in them can freeze, which will ruin your delicacy. There is one more little secret, if you plan to make jam or otherwise prepare strawberries, but they are not fresh - choose warm, but not too sunny places, so the berries will become very fragrant. But strawberries grown in the sun are more tasty and sweet, but not as aromatic.

After planting, water (but do not flood!) the bushes so that the soil at the roots settles a little. Then, in most cases, you don't need to do anything. But still, if you feel that your strawberries will still lack moisture, you can sprinkle the ground with a little mulch, this will prevent all the moisture from evaporating. This is done only in cases where it is very hot outside.

When planting strawberry seedlings, you need to be careful. All stems should be on the surface, while the roots should be tried to be deepened. Take your time doing this job! By covering the roots too heavily, or compacting the soil too tightly, you risk destroying them, dooming them to rot without moisture escaping. And if you don’t deepen the roots enough, they will simply dry out. Achieving the right balance when planting strawberries is important.

Another very serious problem is that agrofibre is black; under the current abnormally hot climatic conditions, the earth is very overheated, and even more so under a black cover. Straw is better and is only needed for one season. After the end of fruiting, it is proposed to sow the bed with strawberries with oats. It manages to grow before frost, then dies, covers the strawberries with a “blanket,” collects snow, and in the spring it becomes mulch. The authors of the idea are the wife Bubliki, they have good book"Your city. An unusual approach to familiar things."

Probably every person who works on personal plot, at least once in my life I tried to grow strawberries. And many abandoned this idea as soon as they encountered a number of problems typical for a strawberry patch. This article will tell you how to make the process of growing strawberries easier with the help of modern technologies.

I blew up strawberries that year. firstly, the canvas broke through very quickly, and secondly, the ground underneath was just stone, although it was very soft before landing. thirdly, the ground was covered with a green coating under this agrofibre. I don’t know what it depends on, but I realized that I won’t use it for planting anymore!

For such a bed, paths are needed not only for direct use, but also as an additional fixation of agrofibre to the ground. If there are joints in the fabrics in the garden bed, it is better to lay the path along these joints. For a rectangular bed without joints, we can recommend placing several paths diagonally.

Country chores do not end with the onset of autumn. On the contrary, summer residents are doing everything possible to get a good harvest next year. One of the concerns is preparing the beds for strawberries in the fall. For the berry, not only a certain area is allocated, but additional effort is also required, since the plant is very picky in its care.

How to properly prepare a bed for strawberries?

One of the characteristics of strawberries is that they love moisture. However, it should be borne in mind that an excess of the latter will ruin all plantings. Therefore, one of the main tasks is the correct choice of location for the garden bed. Experienced summer residents set it up on a hill. Then water will not accumulate in the garden bed. In addition, thanks to this location, it is much easier to clear it of weeds.

When thinking about how to make a bed for strawberries in the fall, take into account that the acceptable height at which the bed can be located is considered to be from 10 to 30 cm. If the place is on a slope or lowland, resort to the most in different ways to create a bed:

Use old tires and boxes. Then the beds turn out to be quite high, about 40–60 cm;
from pipes with holes.

A prerequisite for obtaining a rich strawberry harvest is proper preparation beds and soil for planting. At the same time, it is important not to miscalculate the timing of planting work, and also to provide the strawberries with proper care.

Strawberries are a very demanding crop when it comes to growing conditions. The area for growing berries must have the following characteristics:

be level or have a slight slope;
well lit sun rays during most of the day;
located in the southwest of the site;
be high, without prolonged stagnation of moisture.

Strawberries will not grow and bear fruit well when planted in lowlands and in areas flooded in spring. When placing berry beds in shade or partial shade, the quantity and quality of the harvest suffers greatly: the berries become noticeably smaller and the taste becomes sour. Planting in buried areas groundwater above 60 cm from the soil surface threatens strawberries with frequent fungal diseases. The northwestern part of the site is also unfavorable for growing strawberries.

Crop rotation rules and choosing neighbors for strawberries

When choosing a place for planting, one should not neglect such an important agrotechnical technique as crop rotation. Well-planned crop rotation allows you to obtain bountiful harvests berries annually. The best predecessors for strawberries:

green manure (rapeseed, mustard, buckwheat);
green;
legumes;
garlic;
carrot;
radish, radish.

all nightshades;
cabbage;
cucumbers, zucchini;
pumpkin, Jerusalem artichoke.

As for neighboring plants, strawberries cannot be considered particularly capricious in this regard; they are friends with many crops. It will be especially comfortable for berry bushes to grow next to:

flower beds: with marigolds and nasturtiums;
herbs(basil, sage);
greens (lettuce, spinach, sorrel);
garlic and onions.

Nightshades are not a very pleasant “company” for strawberries. They quickly extract all useful substances from the soil and are also distributors of late blight. It is dangerous to place berry beds near raspberries and rose hips. Insect pests of these crops will quickly spread to strawberry bushes. There will not be a good harvest in the neighborhood of cabbage, since it claims the same nutrients and requires more frequent watering.

Soil preparation

Suitable for berry culture there will be a light soil composition that does not accumulate moisture. Such properties are typical for loamy and sandy loam soils. On soils with a different composition, the situation can be corrected by adding additional components:

coarse river sand in the amount of 2-3 buckets per 1m2 - for heavy and clay soils;
humus in the amount of 2-3 buckets per 1m2 - on light, sandy soils.

To increase fertility in any areas except black soil, the following components must be added additionally per 1 m2:

humus - 1 bucket;
superphosphate – 2 matchbox;
Potassium sulfate – 1 tablespoon.

Distribute the substances evenly over the surface of the site, dig up the soil and leave to rest for 14-20 days. During this time, the soil will settle, and the fertilizers will completely dissolve and take on a form that is easily digestible for strawberries.

Soil characteristics such as acidity are also important for berry bushes. The ideal soil would be with a slightly acidic reaction, that is, with a pH of about 5.5-6.0. To make acidic soil suitable for planting, a liming procedure is carried out. For this purpose, dolomite flour or fluff lime is used.

Lime application rates for various soil types

Liming is carried out 4-6 months before planting, because newly limed soils negatively affect the condition of strawberry roots.

Advice!

To determine the acidity of the soil, you can use litmus indicator strips, which are widely available on the market. From available means for this purpose, you can use table vinegar. Acetic acid should be dropped onto the surface of the soil being tested. The reaction in the form of the formation of small bubbles means that the soil is neutral acidity. If there is no reaction, we can conclude that the soil in the area is acidified.

How to prepare beds for planting strawberries in August

Depending on the characteristics of the site and the wishes of the gardener, strawberries can be grown in beds that differ in the way they are formed. Each design method has its own advantages and features.

Easy way to plant

The “out of the blue” planting method is suitable for high and dry areas. Planting holes are placed in one or two rows. In the first case, the row spacing is left 65-70 cm wide. With a two-line planting scheme, the width between the lines is 80 cm, and the interval between the rows is 40 cm. The distance between the bushes is determined depending on varietal characteristics strawberries

Regardless of the planting pattern, it is necessary to dig dividing grooves about 15-20 cm deep between the rows. Such furrows are necessary to collect excess rainwater. This will significantly reduce the risk of spreading diseases and pests.

Low bulk German bed for strawberries

A German bed is a mound framed with boards or other material. This option is great for low-lying areas and wetlands. The height of the sides depends on the wishes of the gardener, on average it is 20-25 cm.

The area under the garden bed must be cleared of weeds and the top fertile layer must be removed. After installing the box in the prepared place, begin filling it in the following order:

protective mesh against rodents;
drainage layer (broken brick, dry branches, expanded clay);
nutritious soil.

The width of the ridges can be different, but in order to make it convenient to care for the plantings, it should not exceed 80 cm. The planting pattern in such ridges can be either single-row or double-row.

Growing strawberries in German beds has a number of advantages:

convenient to care for plants;
the soil is not washed away by rain;
weeds cannot move from one bed to another;
drainage ensures good soil aeration, which significantly increases productivity and reduces the risk of the spread of fungal diseases;
give the site an aesthetically attractive appearance.

Advice!

In order for “German” beds to last for several years, carefully treat the boards with special antiseptic agents.

High beds made from barrels or tires

To design such ridges, wooden or plastic barrels, as well as tires from different cars. Ideal for tires from combine harvesters, VAZ and MAZ cars. The containers should be dug a little into the ground and filled with fertile soil. To increase the usable area of the tires, they cut out inner part. To give future beds an aesthetic appearance, you can paint the tires.

Such beds have many advantages:

it is convenient to carry out agricultural work (no need to bend low);
durability;
compactness and mobility (can be moved);
no material costs.

The only drawback when choosing such beds will be the small volume of plantings; even the largest tire will only fit 5-6 berry bushes.

Planting under agrofibre

The most common method of planting strawberries among gardeners. Agrofibre can be used both on a regular bulk bed and on a “German” type bed. In both cases, it is necessary to carefully dig up the soil and apply the necessary fertilizers. Then a cloth should be spread over the soil and secured with wire pins.

The canvas is produced standard sizes, 1.6 m or 3.2 m wide. This must be taken into account when planning the length and width of the bed to avoid joints. As a rule, landing holes in agrofibre already exist. If you purchased a continuous agricultural canvas, then make markings in accordance with the desired planting pattern. Cut the fabric crosswise at the marked locations. sharp knife, take the corners out. Plant strawberries in the resulting holes.

The use of agrofibre has a number of advantages:

the material perfectly allows moisture and air to pass through, but does not allow weeds to germinate;
the berries do not have contact with the ground;
the harvest ripens 1-2 weeks earlier due to the rapid heating of the soil in the spring;
Excellent aeration is ensured (the soil surface does not dry out and a crust does not form).

Decorative vertical beds

Vertical structures for planting strawberries are very popular among owners of small garden plots. The most common planting methods:

wooden pyramid bed

This design is made from several tiers of square wooden boxes. The sizes of the boxes can be different, but each tier should be 30-35 cm smaller than the previous one. First, prepare the desired number of boxes. Then, starting with the larger one, stack them on top of each other, filling each fertile soil. The bed can have from three to nine tiers.

into metal or plastic pipes

Pipes with a diameter of at least 15 cm are suitable. Holes must be cut along the entire height of the pipes in checkerboard pattern at a distance of about 20 cm. It is best to concrete the pipe in the soil or attach it in several places to a support, for example, to a veranda or gazebo. Fill the installed structure with nutritious soil mixture and plant strawberries.

V plastic bottles

Cut plastic bottles, fill with soil and secure with ropes to any vertical surface. One bottle contains one bush.

Advantages of vertical beds:

save space;
decorate the site;
contact of berries with soil is excluded;
ease of care (no weeds).

You should know!

The soil in vertical beds dries out very quickly, so watering must be done every 2-3 days.

Regardless of which method of gardening you choose, to obtain a good and high-quality harvest, you need to know some of the features of caring for and growing this crop.

When to plant

Both spring and autumn seasons are suitable for planting strawberry bushes. Seedlings grown independently from seeds are transplanted into the ground in May-June. The guideline is to set the average daily temperature at 15 degrees Celsius.

When propagating strawberries with mustaches, planting can be done from early August to mid-October. It is important to complete planting work a month before the onset of the first night frosts. Agronomists consider August the best month for planting strawberries. Plants planted at this time have time to get stronger and practically do not freeze out in winter. The harvest from such beds can be obtained as early as next year.

Selection of planting material. Which mustache to take for planting

For reproduction, whiskers from healthy and fertile animals are used. excellent harvests bushes In order for the children to be stronger in early spring, all flower stalks should be cut off from the mother bushes. The very first rosettes located from the “mother” have a more developed root system, so they are considered the best planting material. The remaining shoots are not suitable for further propagation, so they are removed.

Sockets can be buried next to mother bushes or plant in separate pots. After the children grow up a little and are able to absorb moisture from the soil on their own, they are separated from the adult bushes and transplanted to a new place.

Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries next to each other?

Planting different varieties of strawberries in the same bed is quite acceptable. Since the strawberry is an overgrown receptacle and not a fruit, there is no need to be afraid of cross-pollination of varieties. The tangle of an overgrown mustache is the only drawback mixed plantings.

Experienced gardeners advise separating neighboring varieties with several rows of garlic or onions. Pieces of slate dug in the bed between the bushes work well as a separator.

Caring for berry beds

In order to receive good harvests every year, berry beds need to be properly cared for. It consists of the following agrotechnical techniques:

Watering

Irrigation of the berry garden is carried out based on weather conditions. In dry summers, watering is carried out 1-2 times a week. With regular rainfall, watering can be reduced or stopped altogether.

Mulching

To retain moisture in the soil for as long as possible, cover the beds with a mulch layer. Straw, agrofibre, and cardboard can be used as mulch. The covering is laid between berry bushes in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. On the eve of the winter season, the mulch layer is replaced with a new one - dried humus.

Spring mulch prevents the growth of weeds, maintains good soil aeration and prevents contact of berries with the ground. Winter covering will protect strawberry roots from freezing and additionally fertilize the soil.

Feeding

They begin to fertilize the berry garden from the second year after planting. Agronomists recommend feeding the crop according to the following scheme:

in early spring - apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
during the period of bud formation, potassium nitrate is used;
V autumn period– use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

And finally, we’ll give a few more tips to get a new, larger harvest every year:

the berries will be larger and sweeter if the beds are placed on sunny place in the direction from east to west;
renew plantings every four years (with the exception of some varieties that can bear fruit well for a longer period of time in one place);
if your garden plot is on a slope, then place the berry bed across it, so the plantings will not be washed away by precipitation;

@yagodyvam

By planting strawberries correctly in August, you can get a good harvest at the beginning of next summer. In order for the berries to be large and fragrant, pests not to spoil the young bushes, and frosts not to destroy the plants, you need to adhere to the basic rules of planting garden strawberries. The optimal period for planting strawberry seedlings is from August 20 to September 15.

How to choose the right strawberries for planting?

Not all varieties are suitable for planting in August. Most resistant to unfavorable conditions are hybrids:

Temptation. Early ripening and large-fruited hybrid variety, bred by English breeders. From one bush you can collect 3 kg of berries with a delicate musky flavor.
Albion. American hybrid of garden strawberries. The yield of 1 bush is 2 kg of berries.
Queen Elizabeth II. Bred by Russian breeders. This variety produces 2 harvests per year. The berries store well and are easy to transport.
Mara de Bois. A French hybrid that is particularly frost-resistant and has sweet, round fruits.

For August planting it is necessary to purchase seedlings good quality. It is recommended to buy annual bushes with three well-developed leaves. It is better if their root system is closed. Therefore, preference should be given to seedlings grown in transparent cups. The roots of young strawberries should be fibrous and well-grown.

Signs of healthy seedlings:

The leaves are leathery and shiny, have pubescence and are colored rich green.
The horn has a thickness of at least 0.7 cm.
Root length open seedlings more than 7 cm, for a closed one - more than 5 cm.
Seedlings without damage to leaves and root system.
The core of the bush is elastic and strong.
The root system of seedlings grown in cups occupies the entire volume of the container.
Roots are visible from a peat pot.

If you buy seedlings on the market from private gardeners, then you need to take into account the risk of infection of the bushes with insect larvae, fungal spores and pathogenic microorganisms. Large nurseries sell “healthy” plants, but this does not guarantee complete absence infection. Strawberry bushes for planting are sold from late July to early August.

You should not buy seedlings if they have pale and wrinkled leaves. Dots, tubercles, dashes and spots on seedlings are signs of infection by pathogenic microorganisms or pests.

Before planting, the purchased seedlings must be completely immersed (along with the cups) in hot water(+50°C) for 20 minutes. This treatment will help get rid of root aphids, nematodes and spider mite. It is recommended to spray the seedlings and planting holes with a fungicide solution.

Selection and formation of beds for strawberries

You need to start creating a new bed in July in order to complete planting in August, otherwise the strawberry mustache will not have time to prepare for winter. Raised beds are suitable for areas with high groundwater levels, and trenches are suitable for arid regions with little snow in winters.

Bulk beds

Bulk warm beds are made in a special wooden box made from boards 25 cm wide. It will hold the soil, and if you line the bottom with cardboard, it will protect the strawberries from weeds and pests. Bulk beds are warmer due to the fact that wood and sand retain heat inside the box. The width of the bulk bed is 1 m. Good drainage will protect root system strawberries from rotting.

The order of bulk layers:

Cardboard.
Sand.
Compost.
10 cm of soil.

Vertical beds

The beds shown in the photo save space on the site and are easy to maintain. They are made using various materials:

Plastic pipes filled with soil mixture are installed vertically. Holes are cut in them every 40 cm. Garden strawberry seedlings are rooted in the slots.
Dense bags made of polyethylene or burlap are filled with nutritious substrate for fruit and berry crops. They are hung on the wall or stacked one on top of the other. Slots are made in the material of the bag for planting sprouts.
Chain-link mesh is used for vertical cylindrical beds. To do this, a pipe of the required diameter is rolled out of it, which is filled with a substrate for growing strawberries. It is convenient to plant young bushes in the grid cells.

@cityvillagefarmer

Trenches

In order to form nutritious soil for strawberry beds, trenches 30 cm deep and up to 1 m wide are dug in the selected area. They are laid inside along the perimeter wooden boards, slate sheets or lining sections. You can lay cardboard at the bottom of the trench to protect against weeds or a chain-link mesh if there is a possibility of damage to plants by moles.

The order of layers filling the trench:

Fresh plant remains(legumes or corn).
Humus.
Chernozem.

Before planting garden strawberries, the trench bed is covered with agrofibre with perforated holes into which the sprouts are planted. Then they tighten it on top with protective material. Such beds are also called “smart” because they have everything necessary for plants to grow independently.

Low German bed for strawberries

To create a low bed using German technology, furrows are not laid between the rows, but partitions made of slate, boards, lining or bricks are placed. The height of the bed is 20-40 cm, and the width is 40-80 cm. Strawberry bushes can be planted in 2 rows, and the distance between the seedlings should be at least 40 cm.

Decorative vertical beds

These beds can decorate the site and help optimize the space on it:

pocket;
pyramid structures;
from plastic pipes.

To sew a pocket bed, you need to fold the foil insulation in half, stitch it along the edges, forming a bag. Mark no more than three pockets per 1 m² and sew them according to the markings. On each pocket, at a distance of 3 cm from the seam, make a semicircular incision. The pockets are filled with a nutrient mixture, watered abundantly and the sprouts are rooted in them. This bed can be attached to a fence or wall.

Pyramid structures are made from wooden slats or reinforcement. A pyramid tripod is made from three slats of equal length. Between them are fixed shelves for pots or slats for hanging containers with substrate for strawberries.

Plastic pipes filled with nutrient substrate can be placed vertically and slits can be made in them for rooting sprouts. Another way is to cut off some of the plastic along the empty pipe. Place the resulting long container horizontally, with the cut part up, with a slight slope at the cut point. Cut the next pipe in the same way and place it on top of the first, tilting the slot. Build the structure like a log wall. Fill the pipes with substrate and plant strawberry sprouts in them.

High beds made from barrels or tires

In order to make a high pyramidal bed, use car tires or plastic barrels different diameters. In the center of the structure you can install a vertical plastic pipe with small holes for internal watering of cascades. You can put a chain-link mesh under the bed, which will prevent moles from damaging the strawberries.

You need to cut the rubber off the tires so that you get rubber cylinders. The bottom and top of the barrel are cut off so that the remaining plastic rim is 40 cm high.

The first tier of the cascade is made from a tire or plastic rim of the largest diameter. It is installed on a chain-link mesh and filled with nutritious soil mixture. For the second level, the tire or rim is chosen so that when installed in the center of the first tier, the width of the bed remains 20-40 cm. Assembly of the cascade structure can be continued as long as the diameter of the previous level allows.

Preparing a bed for strawberries

Before planting, it is necessary to fertilize and disinfect the soil.

What crops are best to plant after?

Strawberries grow well after legumes (beans, peas) and cereals (oats, corn). Root vegetables will be good predecessors: carrots, radishes and radishes. Before strawberries, you can grow greens in the selected area: parsley, dill, lettuce, garlic or onions. You can alternate the following crop rotation: garden strawberries and bulbous flowers (crocuses, tulips, snowdrops).

How to fertilize the soil before planting?

When digging up a site and forming a bed, per 1 m² of soil you need to add:

100 g of superphosphate fertilizer;
50 g of nitrogen fertilizers;
7 kg of humus soil;
50 g potassium salts.

Soil disinfection

Before planting young bushes, weed seeds must be destroyed. Garden strawberries reproduce by tendrils, which, when growing, should not encounter root obstacles. To prevent strawberry diseases, it is necessary to promptly neutralize fungal spores and larvae of insect pests in the soil. You can cope with these problems using an ammonia solution or Roundup.

The process of planting strawberries in August

Planting strawberries in open ground, you need to follow the basic landing rules:

The sprouts are planted in a hole in which a small earthen mound is made.
The roots are not bent - they should freely descend along the tubercle from all sides. Long roots that bend in the hole are trimmed a little.
The seedlings are not deeply buried in the soil: if the core of the bush is below ground level, the plant will die. Shallow landing leads to drying out of the bush. The sprout should be rooted so that the rosette is slightly visible from the soil.
Completes landing abundant watering with the introduction natural stimulant growth (for example, HB 101), which activates immune system plants.
Preparation for winter involves mulching the bed and covering it with agrofibre or thick film to protect it from weeds and winter cold.

Best time to land

To plant strawberries, there must be suitable weather conditions:

air temperature does not exceed +20…+25°С;
air humidity up to 70-80%.

IN southern regions Garden strawberries are planted in early autumn. But if August is cool and humid enough, then planting work can begin.

Is it possible to plant different varieties next to each other?

Better to avoid joint plantings different varieties, because they can get confused with each other, releasing tendrils into the neighboring bed. To avoid confusion between different varieties You can plant rows of garlic.

Planting scheme

Single-row planting is done in a bed 40 cm wide. Plants are planted in one row every 30 cm.

Two-row planting can be done on a bed at least 80 cm wide. Seedlings are rooted in 2 rows. The distance between the rows is 40 cm. In this case, the strawberry bushes should be 30 cm apart from each other. Dense planting of garden strawberries leads to a decrease in the size of the berries.

Planting strawberries in a checkerboard pattern allows you to reduce the gaps between bushes without damaging the plants. On a bed 50 cm wide, seedlings are planted in 2 rows with an interval of 25 cm so that opposite the bush in one row there is a gap in the other. The distance between rows can be reduced to 30 cm.

Planting method

For planting, you can use black film with slots for seedlings or perforated dark agrofibre (spunbond). This method allows you to mulch the soil and protect plants from the germination of weeds. For the winter, planting is protected from wind, hail and low temperatures special white agrofibre.

Strawberry care

Caring for strawberries involves regular watering, fertilizing and mulching.

Watering

In August and September, strawberries are watered 2 times a month, and in October, moisture-charging watering is carried out. It is advisable to install the system on the beds before planting drip irrigation. The second method is sprinkling, that is, spraying the supplied water.

Mulching

Sawdust or hay is used to cover the soil. Planting under agrofibre does not require additional mulching.

Top dressing

Fertilizers with manganese and zinc are key elements for feeding berry crops. Also recommended foliar feeding with molybdenum and boron. Such fertilizers will not only increase productivity, but also protect plants from diseases and pests.

For the right choice mineral fertilizing takes into account the composition of the soil. Strawberries need manganese fertilizers if the bed is located on slightly alkaline carbonate or chestnut soil. Zinc deficiency may occur on sandy and sandy loam soils. It manifests itself in the fact that strawberries begin to get sick often and their yield decreases sharply.

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The solution to the problem of how to plant strawberries in the garden in August should be started in advance, starting with the preparation of seedlings and soil on the site. Mistakes at this stage are fraught with freezing of plants in winter period and loss of yield. Weak and poorly rooted material produces few flowering buds in the spring and often cannot withstand cold weather.

To understand why planting strawberries at the end of summer is more attractive for a gardener, you need to study the order of development of the root system of this berry crop. At high July temperatures, its development stops, reviving only after the heat subsides to 20°C in the second half of August. An exception is the use of advanced technologies using drip irrigation and, which makes it possible to maintain constant root growth all season long.

Benefits of planting strawberries in August:

When studying the question of how to plant strawberries in a garden bed in August, it is advisable to pay attention to the nuance of what previously grew in this area. After some crops, a lot of pathogenic spores and pest larvae always remain in the soil. In order not to encounter a lot of problems already in the first season, it is better to plan crop rotation a couple of years in advance, always having a garden plan at hand.

Optimal strawberry precursors:

salad;
mustard;
legumes;
garlic;
radish;
celery;
carrot;

Unwanted strawberry precursors:

Preparing the soil for planting strawberries in August

What soil is needed for planting strawberries in August:

The best option is humus or turf soil with a light structure.
The soil should allow water and air to pass through without problems.
Absence of pathogenic spores and pest larvae.
Soil acidity with a pH level of 5-6.

It is not advisable to plant plants in heavy loam in August; it is advisable to first improve it by adding a cultivator. The old way is to mix coarse and well-cleaned sand with soil in a ratio of 1:10. Interesting and effective option is to prepare your own substrate in a 1:1 ratio from the following components:

peat;
turf soil;
crushed hardwood sawdust;
humus.

Ways to plant strawberries in August

The generally accepted rules in gardening for planting strawberries in August advise filling the central point with substrate so much so that it rises slightly above the ground. If you plant shallowly, the heart often dries out. Once below ground level, it is likely to soon rot. Next, be sure to water and mulch with compost. Covering with a shading net will save the seedlings at the first stage if the days are hot. Using black spunbond instead of mulch helps get rid of weeds and keep the fruit clean.

Popular strawberry planting schemes in August:

One-liner– it is required to plant with an interval between bushes of up to 20 cm, leaving a row spacing of 60-70 cm.
Two-line– in the tape there are 2 rows at a distance of 30 cm, the interval between neighboring strawberries is 20 cm, between the tapes we leave 70 cm.

After planting in unfavorable weather, young strawberries often suffer, dry out, or go into winter weakened. If you plant plants in August and leave them to their own devices, they will most likely die. The main measures at this stage are periodic watering and fertilizing, which can reduce stress and promote better rooting. Artificial or natural mulch in the garden bed reduces moisture evaporation, under it the roots strengthen faster and grow.

Rare watering of strawberries or excess water is equally harmful to young plants. When planning to plant a berry garden in August, you need to plan this event correctly and supply water to the garden bed in optimal portions: