Competent and timely application of fertilizers is the key harmonious development seedlings. However, many gardeners are poorly informed about when and what fertilizers to apply. This article will help you understand all the intricacies of an important process aimed at increasing the productivity of plant growth.
Proper soil fertilization will create favorable conditions for the existence of crops and will avoid problems in the future. But it is necessary to fertilize competently. Uncontrolled application of organic matter or complex fertilizers can be harmful. So, how to feed the seedlings?
Young plants primarily need phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Usually they are the ones that are lacking in the soil, which means they need to be compensated for. Hydrogen, oxygen, carbon are no less important components of “excellent health.” If the nutritional value of the soil leaves much to be desired, then the seedlings will lack these elements of the periodic table. But calcium, sulfur, magnesium, manganese require a minimum amount at the beginning of the journey.
The need for certain fertilizers depends on the type of crops you planted. So, pears and apple trees are in greater need of organic matter. Cherry and apricot - in minerals.
How to find out what exactly is missing?
If the seedlings do not take root well, you should take a closer look at them. With a thorough visual inspection, you will definitely find characteristic features deficiency of one or an element.
Thin, weak stems and small pale leaves indicate that the seedlings lack nitrogen. Are the leaves drying out at the edges and turning yellow or brown? Need potassium. An acute lack of magnesium manifests itself in the form of pale leaves, which subsequently turn yellow and fall off.
Small and almost black foliage, mainly in the lower part of the plant, is a signal that it should be fed with phosphorus. A lack of iron is indicated by intense wilting of leaves and shoots. Most often, raspberries, grapes, apple trees, and plums need iron. But when there is not enough copper, the leaves at the tips lighten, become lethargic and soon die.
Phosphorus and potassium: what you need to know
Experts advise adding phosphorus and potassium only in the 4th year after planting. It is better to do this in the fall, because... Such complexes contain difficult-to-digest substances. An exception is made for fruit-bearing plants - they are fed in the spring.
Many people apply such fertilizers during fruit set. And they do it right - it has a beneficial effect on the quality and quantity of the harvest.
So what fertilizers for seedlings containing potassium and phosphorus should be applied first?
- potassium sulfate used as a basic fertilizer for fruit-bearing crops. The content of the main active ingredient is 50%. It is applied mainly in spring;
- potassium salt. Universal fertilizing is suitable for any type of crop. The content of the main substance is 40%. Apply in autumn;
- superphosphate. Fertilizer in granules. Phosphoric acid content - up to 20%. It is applied at the rate of 35-40 g/m2;
- phosphate rock. Not only a valuable fertilizer, but also an effective neutralizer increased acidity soil. Phosphorus content varies from 15 to 35%. Focused on feeding any fruit trees.
There are special mixtures containing other substances in addition to potassium and phosphorus. For example, nitrophoska and diammofoska include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen in different ratios.
Nitrogen: when and how to apply?
If the soil was fertilized with nitrogen during planting, then the first fertilizing is practiced in the 3rd year after planting. Most of the nitrogen is applied in the spring, less in the fall. It is calculated as follows: 20 g/m2 (for poor soils) or 10 g/m2 (for fertile soils). If you plan to add nitrogen, you should use:
- urea (carbimide). Contains quickly digestible nitrogen. Young plantings can be fertilized with urea in two ways: by digging the dry mixture into the tree trunks or by spraying the trunk and leaves with a solution (for this, 0.5 kg of urea is dissolved in a bucket of water);
- ammonium nitrate. Fertilizer in granules is well absorbed by seedlings. Nitrate can be used in dry (15 g/m2) and liquid (25 g/bucket of water) form;
- compost, bird droppings and manure. Designed to feed soil of average fertility. Do not contain large number nitrogen. Optimal as an addition to other mineral complexes.
Immature seedlings cannot be fertilized with nitrogen. This will significantly extend the growing season and reduce resistance to frost.
Organics: rules to remember
The most useful fertilizer for seedlings is manure. It should be added in the 3rd year. Chicken manure is especially valuable. They fertilize the ground in the spring at a rate of 5 kg/m2. To feed fruit trees, manure is diluted with water (1 kg/bucket of water) and left for 4-5 days. In autumn, the dosage of litter is reduced to 0.3 kg/m2. Manure from domestic animals is applied exclusively in a rotted state. Fertilize with manure once every 3 years. If the land is very poor, you can do it once every 2 years.
Another useful organic fertilizer is peat. Improves air permeability and soil structure. Furnace ash reduces the acidity of the earth. It is added at the rate of 100 g/m2. Mix with other organics or prepare a solution.
Compost deserves special attention. It is applied in the first year after planting. Increases the nutritional value of the soil, enriches it with humus and improves aeration. Contains substances necessary for seedlings to grow.
High-quality compost can successfully replace any mineral mixtures. At the same time, preparing compost is simple. To do this, dig a trench in the fall and fill it with leaves, grass, sawdust, tops, tea leaves and other waste. compost pit They cover it with earth and safely forget about it until spring. Over the winter, everything you throw into it will turn into wonderful fertilizer.
The interval between feeding is 2 seasons. The optimal time for fertilizing with compost is September-October. Important: compost is lightly dug into the top layer of soil or simply laid out near tree trunks.
Don’t know what else to feed the seedlings? Ready-made fertilizers have proven themselves to be excellent - “Aquarin”, “Kemira”, “Ekofoska”, “AVA”, “Uniflor-rost”, “Florist”, “Ferovit”, “Uniflor”. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions (the composition of the drugs is different) and follow the dosage.
Fertilizing fruit trees and shrubs in the spring will provide you with a good harvest, find out which preparations are best to choose and how to fertilize. This is because at the beginning of a period of intensive growth, any plant simply needs a supply of nutrients. In its absence, it will not be able to develop normally, as well as bear fruit abundantly.
in spring fruit bushes and trees need nitrogen. It promotes the active growth of new leaf blades, flowers and fruits, and is also directly involved in the development of relatively powerful roots. Fertilizers containing nitrogen help not only increase the number of fruits, but also improve their quality.
Feeding fruit trees and shrubs in the spring includes the need to add the following substances: magnesium, iron, boron, copper, potassium, phosphorus, sulfur, cobalt, manganese. Feeding can be done in 2 ways:
- Use organic fertilizers - they are completely natural, for example, compost, bird droppings, manure, etc.
- Use complex mineral fertilizers - they are created by man at chemical plants. When manufacturing them, the features are taken into account individual species plants in a certain period.
First fertilizing of garden crops in spring
It is recommended to carry out the very first fertilizing of garden crops at the beginning of spring. You should not wait for all the snow cover to melt, but the soil should thaw slightly. You can feed the plants at this time with mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen (urea, ammonium nitrate). Fertilizer should be sprinkled directly onto the surface of the snow cover around the trunks of bushes and trees. During the process of snow melting, the necessary nutrients reach the plant root system.
Proper feeding of fruit trees and shrubs in the spring prevents overfeeding the plant with nitrogen. The fact is that its green mass will begin to actively develop, but the yield will sharply deteriorate. In this regard, a young plant needs no more than 40 grams, and an adult - 100 grams of this fertilizer.
Organic fertilizers can be added to completely thawed soil. To prepare them, dissolve 1.5 liters of litter, 0.3 liters of urea and 4 liters of manure in 10 liters of water. One bush will require approximately 4 liters of nutrient mixture.
Second fertilizing of garden crops in spring
Garden crops need phosphorus and potassium during flowering and intensive growth. Potassium promotes the growth of young shoots, increases the amount of sugar in fruits, and increases resistance to diseases and pests. Phosphorus makes roots more powerful.
Experts advise adding these substances to the soil separately, and not together. Initially - 60 g of “Superphosphate” (contains phosphorus) per 1 adult tree, and after some time - potassium magnesia, ash, potassium salt or potassium sulfate (contains potassium) 20 g per 1 tree.
The third and fourth fertilizing of garden crops in the spring
Mandatory feeding is required at the end of flowering. At this time, gardeners use organic fertilizers, and in particular compost. It is dissolved in water and then poured into the root zone of a tree or shrub.
During fruit set, fertilizing with organic fertilizer (for example: compost, mullein or vermicompost) is also necessary. You can buy a specialized mineral mixture that contains minimal amounts of nitrogen. Mix the fertilizer with mulch or embed it in the ground.
How to fertilize garden trees and bushes, interesting tips gardeners.
Feeding horticultural crops V spring time, you need to remember:
- after adding dry fertilizer to the soil, relatively abundant watering is required;
- in order to avoid burns to the root system, liquid fertilizer is not applied to dry soil;
- 1 year after planting any garden plant, fertilizers are not applied to the soil;
- It is recommended to feed in the evening;
- When fertilizing a plant, you need to remember that the roots of an adult tree extend beyond its roots by about half a meter.
What preparations are used to fertilize fruit trees in the spring season:
Feeding fruit trees and shrubs in spring will undoubtedly provide you with the results that you expected when starting a garden, but remember that everything is good in moderation, so don’t overdo it, follow our advice, and everything will definitely work out for you, with this we say goodbye to you, all the best and see you again !
When applying fertilizers, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil of the site: the degree of its fertility and supply of nutrients, as well as the reaction of the environment (whether it is favorable or not for the growth of fruit and berry plants), the mechanical composition of the soil (heavy, clayey or light, with an admixture of sand) , age of plantings, etc.
Fertilizer use
In the first years of life, plants are especially demanding of phosphorus, since it stimulates root growth and ensures the growth of above-ground mass.
Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, as noted above, are characterized by low mobility and are fixed mainly in the zone of application to the soil. Therefore, it is very important to apply them deeply, even before planting trees and shrubs, in increased doses designed for a long period of action.
The use of nitrogen fertilizers when caring for the garden due to their good solubility and mobility in the soil is not particularly difficult. The main task when using them is to prevent nitrogen loss, since its ammonia form is volatile, and its nitrate form is mobile, especially on light soils and during irrigation.
Therefore, all nitrogen fertilizers applied in dry form must be immediately incorporated into the ground.
On light soils and with irrigation, high one-time doses of nitrogen fertilizers are not used, but they are applied fractionally and more often than on heavy soils and without irrigation. The gardener should remember that in the first half of summer, plants need all three main nutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Excess nitrogen in the second half of summer can cause prolonged growth and therefore reduce winter hardiness, especially of stone fruits.
Fertilizer application
Fertilizers for apple trees, pears, cherries, and plums are applied to planting holes, and in areas designated for berry gardens - for digging. In this case, rotted manure and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used. It is better to apply superphosphate in the form of an organo-mineral mixture. Take 300 g of simple superphosphate or 150 g per bucket of poured manure. - double. Superphosphate is mixed with moist organic matter 2 weeks before application. Under the apple tree, 2-3 buckets of this mixture are brought into the hole; in total this amounts to 15-25 kg of manure, 450-900 g of superphosphate. Potassium fertilizers are applied in 200-300 g increments. For stone fruit crops, the dose of fertilizer is halved. It is not recommended to introduce unrotted manure and nitrogen fertilizers into the pits. With good pre-planting soil filling, trees usually do not need additional phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the first 4-5 or more years. In the first year after planting, manure is applied in the form of mulch and covered during digging. In the future, it is recommended to apply organic fertilizers for 4-5 years, before the garden begins to bear fruit.
The application of nitrogen fertilizers should begin 2-3 years after planting, when the plants have taken root and become stronger. If applied during the year of planting, they can cause burns to young roots and impair the survival rate of plants. In the young garden fertile soil need for nitrogen fruit plants usually occurs in early spring, when the process of natural microbiological formation of nitrates is suppressed. In this regard, nitrogen fertilizers containing nitrogen in nitrate form (ammonium nitrate) are applied at a dose of 15-20 g per 1 m 2. This work is carried out when the bulk of the snow has melted, but in the morning the soil is still frozen. If for some reason it was not possible to apply fertilizer at this time, then it is applied before the first spring loosening of the soil (harrowing).
In the first years, fertilizers have weak influence on the growth of trees, but as they approach fruiting, their effect increases more and more. With the introduction tree species During fruiting, the fertilizer application system consists of autumn (main) application, spring application and fertilizing. The main thing is that in the fall, before digging, organic fertilizers (manure, compost) and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied (30-45 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium sulfate or chloride per 1 m 2). The autumn application of chlorine-containing potassium fertilizers helps to wash out chlorine from the soil.
Deep application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, as already noted, promotes the development of a powerful root system. It is carried out into furrows, annular grooves, etc. The best way is focal. The outbreaks are holes made along the periphery of the crown to a depth of 30-35 cm. One hole is placed per linear meter. The amount of fertilizer intended for application under one tree is distributed equally to all holes.
Effective co-application mineral fertilizers with organic ones. The rate of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.
Spring application of fertilizers for fruit trees usually involves the use of ammonium nitrate, this has already been discussed in detail above. But if organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers were not applied in the fall, they must be applied in the spring (preferably in the holes).
For fruit bearing trees great value They also have supplements. In non-irrigated gardens, they are most often limited to the early spring application of ammonium nitrate, since in the absence of watering, fertilizing is ineffective. The application rate is 15-20 g per 1 m2 during the period when the garden enters fruiting and 20-25 g when it is fully fruiting.
In irrigated gardens, there is a danger of leaching of mobile nitrogen into deep layers, especially on light soils. At the same time, fruit-bearing orchards especially need nitrogen fertilizer. Therefore, in a fruit-bearing irrigated garden, in addition to the early spring application of nitrogen fertilizers, one or two additional feedings are carried out during the growing season. First - nitrogen fertilizer(ammonium nitrate) after physiological shedding of the ovary - in a dose of 10 g per 1 m 2. At high yield after 20-25 days a second feeding should be done. It is carried out with complete fertilizer and contributes to the normal formation of flower buds for next year's harvest. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers: nitrophoska (25-30 g per 1 m2) or nitroammofoska (20 g per 1 m2) with the addition of potassium sulfate or chloride (10 g per 1 m2).
In a lean year, they limit themselves only to basic fertilizer and spring application of nitrogen, since in this case the consumption of nutrients goes only to the increase in vegetative mass and the formation of flower buds for the next year's harvest. It is necessary to restrain the formation of buds so as not to overload the tree with the harvest in a year.
When feeding, mineral fertilizers can be applied in either liquid or dry form. In the first case, the fertilizer should be dissolved in water - 20-30 g per 10 liters, in the second, subsequent watering is required.
Good results are obtained by fertilizing with local liquid organic fertilizers - slurry, bird droppings, which are applied at the rate of 1 bucket per 2-3 m of furrow. They are cut along the periphery of the tree crown on two or four sides, one or two at a time, with a depth: for apple and pear trees - 15-18 cm, for plums and cherries - 12-14 cm. Bird droppings are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:12, slurry—1:4. Fertilizing is best timed to coincide with rains. If the weather is dry, the furrows need to be watered. Fertilizing can be done simultaneously with watering. When using fertilizing, it is necessary to remember, however, that this method of fertilizing is auxiliary and cannot replace the main fertilizer. The use of nitrogen fertilizers, especially in young orchards, must be approached carefully, strictly observing the doses and timing of application. A constant excess of nitrogen, especially in the case of a lack of other elements, leads to the fact that in young plants a state of so-called “fatification” may occur, that is, violent growth in the absence of fruiting. It is not immediately possible to induce fruiting in fattening trees. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to weaken the nitrogen supply, and at the same time, increase the phosphorus-potassium supply, and reduce watering. In some cases, it is necessary to resort to the use of special techniques: constriction of branches, ringing, etc.
Strawberry fertilizer
When preparing the site for its August planting, it is necessary to add organic fertilizers in advance, at the beginning of summer for digging: half-rotted manure, humus or compost - 4-5 kg per 1 m2, as well as mineral fertilizers: double granulated superphosphate - 20-25 g per 1 m2 and potassium sulfate - 25-30 g each. Early in the spring of next year and annually thereafter, nitrogen fertilizing with ammonium nitrate is given in a dose of 20-25 g per 1 m2. After harvesting, full mineral fertilizer is applied annually when digging between rows. For this purpose, complex fertilizers are used: nitrophoska or azofoska in a dose of 40-50 g per 1 m2.
Instead, you can add ammophos at a dose of 15-20 g per 1 m2 and potassium sulfate - 20-25 g. This will help to ensure good fruit bud formation for next year's harvest.
Instead of mineral fertilizer, you can use bird droppings in liquid form, diluted 12-15 times.
Do I need to apply fertilizer when planting a seedling? It all depends on what kind of soil you have at the planting site. If it's good garden soil, then don't. If it’s all sand, then you definitely need to add any complex mineral fertilizer that slowly dissolves in water. For annual seedling It is quite enough to add, for example, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of “Aquarin” from the Buysky chemical plant. Or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granular, water-insoluble AVA fertilizer. By the way, it will last for three years. At worst, you can add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of “Azofoski”, or even better – “Ekofoski” or “Kemiry”.
In addition, you need to add organic matter. In sandy or sandy loam or podzolic soils - 2-3 buckets of rotted compost or manure per one-year-old seedling. For a two-year-old seedling, the dose should be doubled, and for a three-year-old seedling, the dose should be tripled.
If the soil is peaty, it is better to deoxidize it rather than apply mineral fertilizers. Organics on such soils are also not needed in the first year of a seedling’s life. As mentioned above, trees are not planted in clay, but the hill that will have to be poured on top of it must contain both organic and mineral fertilizers.
When and what to feed trees? The basic principle of any feeding is that what we take out is what we bring in. That is, how many and what kind of minerals we take away with the harvest must be returned back to the soil. In addition, it is also necessary to provide food for soil microorganisms, that is, add unrotted organic matter to the subtree. The easiest way to do this is without removing anything from under the tree - fallen leaves, weeds weeded or cut to the soil level, and if necessary, then put the compost either in trenches (when planting in holes) or directly on the soil (when planting in hill or flat surface) along the perimeter of the crown.
The apple tree takes away from everyone square meter occupied power supply area (approximately 4 x4 = 16 m2) at average yield 4-6 kg (per 1 m2) 17 g nitrogen, 5 g phosphorus, 20 g potassium. The total removal of minerals for the season will be 42 g (agronorm), and percentage of these basic nutrients (balance) for the apple tree will be 41: 11:48. Those plants that yield more than 45% potassium from total amount elements belong to the group of potassium lovers. Thus, the apple tree is a potassium-loving plant. In addition, it removes from the soil with a harvest from each 1 m 2 per season 12.6 mg of iron, 5 mg of boron, 4.4 mg of copper, 2.4 mg of manganese, 2.6 mg of zinc, 0.05 mg of molybdenum. All this must be returned to the soil (or added for a given season). The feeding area is 16 m2, so the apple tree will need 272 g of nitrogen, approximately 9 tbsp. spoons Phosphorus - 80 g, but phosphorus oxide (which is part of mineral fertilizers) contains only 0.44% pure phosphorus, so you will have to take 181 g of phosphorus oxide, that is, 6 tbsp. spoons of double granulated superphosphate. An apple tree requires 320 g of potassium for the entire season, but potassium oxide contains 0.83%, which means that 382 g of potassium fertilizer should be taken, that is, 12 tbsp. spoons
Unlike garden plants, which need to be fed and watered all season, fruit and berry plants need mineral supplements twice a season. The first should be done in the spring, at the moment the leaves turn. Plants need nitrogen and potassium at this time. But the dose of potassium should be divided into spring and late summer. Thus, when feeding in spring, you should take 9 tbsp. spoons of nitrogen and potassium. There will be 18 tbsp in total. spoons per 16 m 2 food area. Thus, a little more than 1 tbsp is enough. spoons per 1 m2. If you use potassium nitrate, then 1 tbsp is enough. Dissolve a spoon in 10 liters of water, to which you must additionally add 1/2 tbsp. spoons of urea, and pour along the perimeter of the tree crown for one linear meter. And to feed an adult apple tree, you will need to pour 16 buckets of the solution prepared in this way under it.
You can use specialized fertilizers for fruit and berry plants from the Buysky Chemical Plant; you can only use “Aquarin” or “Omu”. 3 tbsp is enough. spoons per 10 liters of water. Or take “Ekofoska” or “Kemira”. At worst, use 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium carbonate or sulfate (or potassium magnesia) per 10 liters of water. If there are no mineral fertilizers at all, water the ground under the tree along the perimeter of the crown with a solution of manure (or feces) diluted with water 1:10 (if you use bird droppings, then prepare the solution 1:20). Pour it around the perimeter of the crown of the apple tree, and after a week, pour ash on the damp surface at the rate of 1 cup per one-year-old seedling.
The nutrient solution is prepared at the rate of 10 liters per square meter of soil surface. An adult apple tree requires a feeding area of 4 x 4 m2, therefore, it is necessary to feed at least 16 buckets of solution, but it must be poured along the perimeter of the tree crown. A berry bush needs a feeding area of 1.5 x 1.5 = 2.25 m2. Therefore, it is enough to pour 2 buckets of solution under it (again along the perimeter of the crown, and for black currants even beyond the perimeter of the crown). In the North-West the first spring feeding should be given no earlier than the beginning of June, when spring frosts, because nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of plants by almost 2 degrees.
A second mineral supplement is needed fruit and berry crops at the end of summer, when they begin to grow young root system. In mid-late August, prepare a solution of double granular superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and chlorine-free potassium (1 tablespoon) per 10 liters of water. And pour this solution at the rate of 10 liters per square meter (naturally, along the perimeter of the plant crown). Don't worry that superphosphate does not dissolve in cold water. It will gradually penetrate into the root zone and even remain in the soil for the next season. But you can use ready-made autumn fertilizer for fruit and berry plants from the Buysky plant. Or once every three years you will embed 3 tbsp into the soil to a depth of 7-10 cm around the perimeter of the apple tree crown. spoons of granular complex fertilizer AVA. To do this, simply use the corner of the weeder to draw a groove around the apple tree.
Distribute the fertilizer evenly and sprinkle it with soil. This fertilizer does not dissolve in water and therefore is not washed out of the soil. The plant uses it sparingly and evenly throughout the entire season. The fertilizer is dissolved in organic soil acids (partially, the roots themselves secrete these acids, dissolving the fertilizer as needed). You just need to remember that fertilizer does not work in alkaline environments, so you should not add ash, dolomite, lime and other deoxidizing agents at the same time. If you pile compost around the perimeter of the crown of one or the other apple tree once every 2-3 years, then the tree will not need any feeding, except for microelements.
There is another crucial moment in life garden plants- intensive growth of ovaries. At this time, they need microelements, otherwise they cannot avoid premature discarding of the ovaries and the harvest, which will not only be poorly stored, but also contain vitamins that are subject to rapid destruction. In addition, in healthy-looking apples, the pulp may become brown and disgusting taste. Therefore, in areas where the soils are poor and practically do not contain microelements, you should spray the plants on young ovaries with a solution of these same microelements. In particular, these are the soils in the North-West, where historically there has never been volcanic or mining activity and magma, saturated with all minerals, did not enrich our soils.
Most best drug for feeding plants with microelements - this is “Uniflor-micro”, containing 15 microelements in chelated (intracomplex) form. 2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water is enough. On mature tree 5-6 liters of solution will be required. 0.5 liter is enough for a berry bush. Moreover, it is much more effective to spray plants rather than water them. If you use AVA as mineral fertilizers, then this feeding is not required. Is it possible to replace Uniflor-micro if it is not available? Yes, you can, using any fertilizer that contains a large amount of microelements. Just don’t forget that foliar feeding of plants by leaves should be 10 times less concentrated than root feeding, otherwise you will burn the plants.
The yield of a pear is half that of an apple tree, with the same required feeding area of 4 x 4 m = 16 m2 - only about 3 kg per 1 m2. And therefore, the removal of mineral elements from the harvest per season is significantly less: 7 g of nitrogen, 3 g of pure phosphorus and 8 g of pure potassium from each square meter of feeding area. Agro-norm -18, balance - 41: 15: 44, that is, the pear needs increased doses of phosphorus and slightly lower doses of potassium than the apple tree. Hence, the feeding rates given for an apple tree should be taken for a pear half as much as for an apple tree. To prepare the solution, the dose of phosphorus must be increased by 1/3 tbsp. spoons, and accordingly reduce potassium by 1/3 tbsp. spoons. That's it. If you use AVA fertilizer, then 2.5 tbsp is enough for a pear. spoons for three seasons.
Lack of nutrition
Feeding is absorbed much faster through leaves than through roots, so foliar nutrition is more effective, but only in emergency situations. It cannot replace root nutrition. At foliar feeding It is important that there is no rain for 3-4 hours after spraying. In addition, fertilizing should be done in the evening so that it is absorbed by the leaves and does not evaporate in the sun.
With a lack of potassium, the leaves curl upward, and a brown border forms along their edges - a marginal burn. Spray the plant with “Uniflor-bud” (2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water) or a weak solution of potassium fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters). With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves stretch vertically upward. Feed with double granular superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 l). At worst, potassium and phosphorus will be replaced by ash (1 glass of ash pour 1 liter hot water for a day, then add water to 10 liters, strain).
With a lack of nitrogen, the foliage becomes smaller and lighter. Feed with any nitrogen fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters), preferably together with potassium (potassium nitrate, for example). Or use "Uniflor-rost".
With a lack of magnesium, the leaves become marbled in color - dark green to light green. The leaves should be sprayed with Epsom salt or potassium magnesia solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
If marble spotting is of different colors (yellow-green or red-green, and so on), then most often this indicates a deficiency of some microelement. The easiest way is to spray with “Uiflor-micro” (2 teaspoons per 10 l). Instead of "Uniflor" you can use "Florist" or "Aquadon-micro" in the same concentration. At worst, use an infusion of ash, as described above.
If on the leaves brown spots, then most often this is evidence of iron deficiency. There is an excellent drug “Ferovit” (2-4 drops per 1 liter) or any of the “Uniflors”. As a last resort, use 0.1% iron sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). If there are black spots on the leaves, then this is most likely scab. It will not be on the leaves or fruits if you systematically apply “Healthy Garden”.