Peach seems to many to be an exotic fruit, because everywhere except southern latitudes, it can only be found on store shelves. Summer residents are wondering if it is possible peach grow on your own plot, but few people decide to undertake such experiments.
Still, a strong and stable tree that will bring good harvest, you can grow it, but you need to know a few rules.
You can grow peach from the pit at home
How to grow a peach from a pit?
To grow a peach, you don’t have to buy seedlings. To do this, you will need seeds from ripe and juicy, but not spoiled fruits. Select 15-20 whole seeds without defects. The more there are, the higher the chances of getting not one, but several shoots and choosing the strongest and most stable ones.
The bones need to be prepared:
- Rinse the whole seeds well and remove the pulp, place in a glass and fill with settled water. Change the water daily, and try to do it at the same time.
- Remove the seeds from the water and dry well. Then use a hammer to carefully crack and remove the kernels. If the kernel is damaged, it is not suitable for planting.
- Plant the finished kernels in open ground. This must be done before they have time to dry.
Choosing a place and soil for planting
Peach is very demanding of light
Peach loves warmth and light, so you need to approach the choice of planting site responsibly. It should be located in the southern part of the garden, well lit and protected from the wind. If you plant a peach in the shade of other trees, it will not have time to form wood, which will lead to improper bud formation, a poor harvest and unripe fruits. Sometimes this can lead to the death of shoots.
Peach is not picky about soil, but waterlogged, high-carbonate, dense and highly saline soils should be avoided. A peach tree cannot be planted in an area where melons, strawberries, nightshades and clover were previously grown. Before planting peach kernels, fertilize and loosen the soil well; it should be loose and soft.
Features of planting peach in open ground
The best time to plant peach is the first ten days of September and March. But it’s still better to choose autumn; by spring, some of the kernels will self-select and only strong shoots will emerge. Before landing, you need to remember a few simple rules:
If seedlings, rather than kernels, are chosen for planting, then dig a hole measuring 0.5 x 0.5 meters. Place the seedling in the hole and carefully straighten the root system and cover it with soil, then fill it with water and mulch it with manure to a depth of 10 cm. Final stage work – protecting seedlings from pests and diseases. Treat the plant against leaf curl, brown rot and powdery mildew.
Watering a peach tree
In the spring, when the shoots sprout, peaches need abundant watering. Don’t forget to feed the plants with humus and spray them with special remedies against diseases.
Trees need plenty of watering
If the place and soil are chosen correctly, the trees are proper care, then in the first year of life they should reach a height of 1.5 meters.
When watering, carefully ensure that the water does not stagnate. If the summer is dry, trees need to be watered once every 10 days.
It is possible to grow a peach from a pit or seedling, but you need to know a few rules and tricks. A peach tree grown from a seed is more resistant to capricious weather, diseases and pests than a peach grown from a seedling; it withstands frost and produces a tasty and abundant harvest.
478. HOW DO THE PEACHES PROPAGATE?
Peach is propagated vegetative way- grafting with cuttings and bud. Of the methods of grafting with cuttings, the best results are obtained “in a side cut” and “behind the bark” (see Nos. 21 and 23). For budding, annual rootstocks are used.
479. WHAT ROOTS ARE USED FOR PEACH PROPAGATION?
Peach is grafted onto seedlings of late peach varieties (Elberta, Dupnishka and others) and onto cherry plum. In peach trees grafted on cherry plum, incompatibility between the rootstock and scion is often observed. Therefore, cherry plum is not particularly suitable as a rootstock for peach.
480. IN WHAT AREA CAN PEACHES BE GROWED?
Peach is grown everywhere in Bulgaria, but the highest and highest quality yields are obtained in the areas of the lower reaches of the Struma and Strumeshtitsa rivers, in the Sliven district and in some other places. Peach grows well on gentle northern slopes at an altitude of up to 600 m above sea level, where cold air masses do not stagnate. Prefers nutrient-rich, irrigated soils. The coasts of the Black Sea and Danube are also suitable for growing peach. Peach should not be cultivated in closed valleys, since in such areas its buds and sometimes entire trees often freeze out in winter.
481. WHAT VARIETIES OF PEACH ARE SUITABLE FOR GROWING IN AMATEUR GARDENS?
Blake(Fig. 214). The fruits are large, weighing about 160 g, with a very beautiful appearance. The skin is orange-yellow with a solid red blush, occupying about 1/3 of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is firm, juicy, yellow, intensely red near the seed, very sweet, with a strong aroma, good taste. The fruits ripen 5-6 days earlier than the John Hale variety. Used in fresh and processed form. Trees medium strength growth, enter the fruiting season early and are characterized by satisfactory productivity. Variety mid-early period flowering.
Dixiejam. The fruits are large in size, weighing about 160 g. The main color of the skin is orange-yellow with a blush in the form of red strokes. The pulp is yellow, reddish near the seed, juicy, very sweet, with a faint aroma, very good taste. The fruits ripen in late July - early August. Used mainly in fresh. The trees are vigorous and very productive. Flowering period is mid-early. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl. Shows a tendency to drop fruit before ripening.
Dixired(Fig. 215). The fruits are medium-sized, weighing about 150 g. The skin is orange-yellow, with a raspberry-red blush on sunny side. The pulp is yellow, juicy, firm, very sweet, without red coloring near the pit, with a weak aroma, very good taste. The fruits ripen in the first half of July. The ripening period is very extended. They are consumed mainly fresh. The trees are vigorous and productive, with a mid-early flowering period. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl.
Dupnishka. The fruits are large and very large (average weight about 180 g). The skin is lemon yellow, with a red blurred blush on the sunny side. The pulp is dense, juicy, sweet or sour-sweet, intensely colored around the seed, good taste. The fruits ripen in late September - early October. Used for processing and for fresh consumption. The trees are vigorous and productive, the flowering period is late. The variety is not frost-resistant enough.
Golden Krichimsky. The fruits are large, on average one fruit weighs about 160 g. The skin is golden yellow, about half the surface of the fruit is covered with dark red stripes. The pulp is yellow, some of it and the area around the seed are red, of good taste. The fruits ripen in early August. Used fresh and for processing. The trees are vigorous, begin bearing fruit early and have good yields. The variety is not frost-resistant enough.
Cardinal(Fig. 216). The fruits are of medium size, weighing about 140 g. The skin is orange-yellow, with a streaked blush that occupies almost the entire surface of the fruit. The pulp is juicy, tender, yellow, without red coloring near the stone, with a weak aroma, good taste. The fruits ripen in early July. The pit is separated from the pulp with difficulty and not cleanly. The fruits are used mainly fresh. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl. Some fruits are double.
Collins. Medium sized fruits. The skin is yellow, with a blush on the sunny side. The pulp is yellow, dense, with a strong aroma, and does not separate from the seed. The fruits ripen in late June - early July. Used only fresh. The trees are vigorous and very productive. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl.
Late sparkling red. The fruits are large and very large, weighing about 190 g. The skin is yellow-orange, with a red blush, occupying about half of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow, with an intense red color near the stone, sweet, juicy, fibrous, with a pleasant aroma, good taste. The fruits ripen in the second half of August or early September. Used for fresh consumption and processing. Trees of medium vigor, satisfactory yield. Flowering period is mid-early.
Redhaven. The fruits are large (average weight about 130 g). The skin is yellow-orange, with a blurred or streaked blush, occupying approximately 1/3 of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow, tender, reddish near the seed, juicy, very sweet, with a delicate pleasant aroma, excellent taste. The stone separates quite well from the pulp. The fruits ripen in late July - early August. Used for fresh consumption and processing. The trees are of moderate vigor, begin bearing fruit early and are distinguished by abundant yields. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl and spring frosts.
Rio ozo jam. The fruits are large (average weight about 180 g). The skin is golden yellow, with a blurred or streaked blush on the sunny side. The pulp is golden yellow, intense red near the seed, juicy, sweet. The bone is free. The fruits ripen in the second half of September. Used fresh and for processing. Trees of moderate vigor. The variety is not frost-resistant enough.
September. The fruits are large, golden yellow, with a carmine blush. The pulp is yellow, sweet, pleasantly sour, tender, with anthocyanin coloring around the seed, with a weak aroma, good taste. The fruits ripen in mid-September. In addition to high table quality, the fruits are quite suitable for canning. The trees are vigorous, begin bearing fruit early and are characterized by abundant yields. The frost resistance of the variety is average.
Southland. The fruits are large (average weight about 170 g), golden yellow, with a blush. The pulp is juicy, very sweet, yellow, with a strong anthocyanin color near the seed, fine-grained, with a weak aroma, good taste. The bone is separated from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of August. The trees are relatively low-growing and have good yields. Flowering period is early. The variety is sensitive to low temperatures. Leaves are affected by curling.
Starking Delicious(Fig. 217). The fruits are of medium size, weighing about 160 g. The skin is golden yellow, with a blurred blush dotted with red dots. The pulp is firm, medium juicy, yellow, with a slight anthocyanin color near the stone, fine-grained, sweet, good quality. The pit is not separated from the pulp very cleanly. The fruits ripen in early September. Used for fresh consumption and canning. The trees are vigorous and have abundant yields. Medium-early flowering variety. Sensitive to leaf curl.
Triojam. The fruits are large, weighing about 170 g. The skin is golden-yellow or orange-red, with a blurred blush and scattered red dots. The pulp is yellow, juicy, medium-grained, with a red color near the stone, with a weak aroma, good taste. The pit is free from pulp. The fruits ripen in early August.
Used for fresh consumption and processing. The trees are vigorous and very productive. Flowering period is mid-early. Trees are sensitive to drought.
Fairhaven(Fig. 218). The fruits are medium-sized, weighing about 150 g. The skin is golden-yellow, with a blush that occupies half the surface of the fruit, and numerous red dots scattered over the entire surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow, with a slight anthocyanin color near the seed, quite tender, juicy, very sweet, with a pleasant aroma, and good taste. The bone is separated from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of August. Suitable for both fresh consumption and various processing. Trees of moderate vigor. Productivity is very high. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl.
John Hale(Fig. 219). The fruits are very large, weighing about 190 g. The skin is golden yellow, with a blurred blush and difficult to distinguish stripes. The pulp is orange-yellow, with a strong anthocyanin color around the seed, sweet, juicy, with a faint aroma and pleasant taste. The fruits ripen in the second half of August and early September. Suitable for both processing and fresh consumption. Trees of moderate vigor and good yield. Flowering period is late. The variety is not frost-resistant enough. The pollen is defective. Other varieties are needed for pollination.
Vesuvio(Fig. 220). The fruits are medium-sized, weighing about 140 g. The skin is yellowish-green, with a faint pink blush and numerous red dots. The pulp is yellow, hard, gristly, sweet, without anthocyanin coloring around the seed, with a weak aroma, good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in mid-August. Used for processing, as well as for fresh consumption. The trees are vigorous and productive. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl.
Coronado. The fruits are medium-sized, yellow, with a blush. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in late July - early August. They are mainly used for processing into compotes. The trees are vigorous. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl.
Crown. The fruits are medium size, golden yellow in color. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in late September - early October. Mainly used for processing. Trees of moderate vigor, productive. The variety is sensitive to leaf curl.
Salami. The fruits are medium in size, yellow in color, with a blush. The pulp is yellow, with anthocyanin coloring near the stone, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen at the end of September. Used exclusively for preparing compotes. The trees are vigorous and productive.
Slivensky compote. The fruits are medium size, yellow in color. The pulp is white, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of July. Used exclusively for preparing compotes. Trees of moderate vigor, productive.
Fortune. The fruits are medium-sized, weighing about 130 g. The skin is golden yellow, with a blush. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, weakly juicy, without anthocyanin coloring around the seed, good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of August. Mainly used for processing.
The trees are vigorous and productive. The variety is characterized by insufficient resistance to fruit rot.
Helford I. The fruits are medium in size, the main color is yellow, with blush occupying a small part of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the second half of September.
Used for processing. Trees of moderate vigor and high yield.
Helford II. The fruits are medium-sized, yellow in color, with a blush. The pulp is yellow, dense, gristly, of good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen 5-6 days after the Helford I variety. They are used for processing. Trees of moderate vigor. Productivity is very high. The varieties Helford I and Helford II are very similar to each other. They differ in the period of fruit ripening.
Vivian. The fruits are medium in size, weighing about 140 g. Most of the fruits are red in color. The pulp is yellow, medium sugar content, with anthocyanin coloring of the stone, good taste. The bone does not separate from the pulp. The fruits ripen in the first half of September. Used for processing. The trees are vigorous and very productive. The variety is not sufficiently resistant to leaf curl.
482. WHAT DISTANCES SHOULD BE ACCEPTED WHEN PLANTING A PEACH?
Peach is formed using a cup-shaped (vase-shaped) and palmette system. When forming according to a cup-shaped system, peach trees are planted at a distance of 5.5-7 m between rows and 4-5.5 m between plants in a row. When forming palmettes, the following planting distances are taken: 5-6 m between rows and 5-6 m between plants in a row.
483. HOW TO TREAT THE SOIL UNDER PEACH TREES?
Peach is a demanding crop in terms of soil cultivation. Black steam is the only thing The right way soil content in a peach orchard (see Nos. 85-91). Soil cultivation is carried out in the same way as in apple orchard, but with the difference that in the peach orchard both autumn plowing and summer cultivation are done 3-4 cm smaller. To enrich the soil with nutrients and maintain its structure, crops are sown every 2-3 years for green fertilizer.
484. HOW IS THE PEACH GARDEN WATERED?
The peach is watered along the furrows. In young orchards, one furrow is made on both sides of each row of trees, and in adult, fruit-bearing orchards, 3-4 furrows are made in each row spacing. Taking into account that areas with light, well-permeable soils for water are allocated for peach, the length of the furrows should not be more than 60-80 m, the depth - 8-10 cm, and the distance between them - 30-40 cm.
During the growing season, several irrigations are carried out, the first of which is insufficient quantities precipitation in early spring is done 10 days before flowering. Watering continues periodically depending on precipitation and stops 15 days before harvesting the fruits. Watering during fruit ripening has a negative impact on their quality.
After harvesting the fruits, water once or twice more until the end of the growing season. If the autumn is long and warm, water-retaining watering is done. Water consumption per irrigation is 600-800 cubic meters. m/ha. The bulk of peach roots are located shallowly, at a depth of 20-60 cm from the soil surface, as a result of which a relatively small amount of water is used when watering. At high irrigation rates, the soil becomes waterlogged and the peach root system dies. Watering too late can cause peach trees to freeze.
485. HOW TO CUT A PEACH?
It is best to start pruning peach trees in the first half of March, when there is no longer any danger of damage. winter frosts. If minimum temperature in winter it was below minus 18° and some of the flower buds froze, pruning should be postponed until the beginning of the growing season. This is done so that you can better assess the extent of damage and apply appropriate pruning force. The higher the percentage of damaged buds, the weaker the pruning should be and vice versa.
486. WHAT TYPE OF CROWN IS MOST SUITABLE FOR FORMING PEACH TREES IN AMATEUR GARDENS?
Amateur gardens small size, which is why it is most convenient to form peach trees grown in them using the palmette system. In this way, places along the borders of the garden, near the walls of buildings, etc. are better used. Of the palmetto forms, the most suitable for shaping peach is the oblique Italian palmette. In some cases, a modern Italian vase-shaped crown may also be convenient.
487. HOW TO FORM A PEACH USING THE MODERN ITALIAN VASE SYSTEM?
Annual peach seedlings used for planting consist of a central conductor and numerous lateral premature branches. Seedlings are pruned after planting in the spring. The central conductor of the seedling is shortened in such a way as to obtain a trunk 50-60 cm high and leave enough space above the trunk with buds from which future skeletal branches will grow. Premature branches in the trunk area are removed, and above the trunk they are shortened by 1-2 buds, leaving a small stump above the last bud. The stump is also left when the central conductor of the seedling is shortened (Fig. 221).
In spring, many young shoots develop from the left buds, of which only 5-6 of the most well-developed and conveniently located are left. The remaining shoots are removed. At the same time, premature branches shortened in early spring are also removed, on which no shoots are left. At the end of June, when the shoots reach a length of 50-60 cm, 3 of them are selected to form skeletal branches. The shoots selected for this purpose should be evenly spaced around the trunk, have divergence angles of about 120° and spaced from each other along the trunk by approximately 15 cm. The remaining shoots are shortened by two buds. After summer pruning, the shoots left as skeletal branches begin to develop very quickly. Numerous premature growths appear on them, thickening the crown. Therefore, at the end of August, all premature shoots growing inside the crown are removed.
When the lateral branches of peach seedlings are more than 50 cm long, the necessary skeletal branches can be selected in the spring during the first pruning after planting. The central conductor is shortened at a height of about 80 cm above the soil surface. They shorten it in such a way that a stump 4-5 cm long remains above the upper skeletal branch. The side branches left as skeletal ones should be evenly located near the trunk, have suitable angles of departure from the trunk and angles of divergence from each other and, if possible, not come out of adjacent kidneys. Branches selected as skeletal branches are not shortened. In the second or third year after planting, the skeletal branches are bent and secured in a position of 45° relative to the horizontal. If the skeletal branches are weak, then first they are left in a more elevated position and only after they are sufficiently strengthened, they are given the necessary final slope. If one or two skeletal branches have very powerful development, then they are tilted very strongly in order to delay their development and restore balance between all skeletal branches of the crown. Once this goal has been achieved, the skeletal branches are raised and secured in a position of 45° relative to the horizontal. In the spring of the second or third year after planting, branches are selected to form the first skeletal branches (second-order skeletal branches) (Fig. 222). The first skeletal branches should be located at a distance of about 60 cm from the base of the skeletal branches. On every skeletal branch And form three skeletal branches. The second and third skeletal branches form over the next two to three years. The distance between individual skeletal branches located on one skeletal branch should be 80-100 cm. Once sufficiently strengthened, the skeletal branches are bent and secured in a position of about 30° relative to the horizontal. All premature shoots growing on the inside of skeletal branches and branches are periodically cut out, leaving small stumps. On the upper parts (about 40 cm from top to bottom) of the branches of the continuation of skeletal branches and branches, all premature growths are cut out. Excess and thickening fruit branches located on the skeletal branches are removed, leaving one branch for every 12-15 cm.
Branches that continue skeletal branches and branches are not pruned. Regulation of the growth of branches of continuation of skeletal branches and branches is carried out by changing their inclination. Shortening is resorted to only when the upper part of a skeletal branch is damaged. After pruning the damaged branch to a healthy place, undamaged skeletal branches are also pruned at that level in order to maintain balance between them.
When a skeletal branch grows too elevated and competes with the continuation branch of the skeletal branch on which it is located, it is given a horizontal position. After obtaining good subordination between the skeletal branch and the skeletal branch, the skeletal branch is returned to its original position. Giving the skeletal branches the required slope is done by tying them to small stakes (50-60 cm long and 5-6 cm thick) driven into the ground. Wire and rubber pads are used as garter material.
During the growing season, summer pruning is carried out. All shoots growing inside the crown and located on the inner and outer sides of skeletal branches and branches are removed after they reach a length of 10-12 cm. They are not removed completely, but leaving a small stump. After summer pruning, only lateral overgrowing branches should remain on the skeletal branches.
488. HOW TO FORM A PEACH ACCORDING TO THE MODERN ITALIAN PALMET SYSTEM WITH OBLIQUE BRANCHES?
Peach being planted annual seedlings with numerous lateral premature branches. The first pruning after planting is done in the spring. The central conductor of the seedling is cut at a height of 40-50 cm above the soil surface. The upper premature branches are cut into 1-2 buds, and those located lower along the trunk, in the area of the future trunk, are cut into a ring. When trimming the central conductor, a stump 5-6 cm long is left above the upper bud or premature branch.
In the spring, from the developed young shoots, 5-6 of the most well-developed and evenly located near the trunk are selected to form a central conductor and two skeletal branches of the lower tier. 2-3 shoots are left as reserves. The first two shoots, located directly below the topmost shoot from which the central conductor will be formed, are removed. The remaining unnecessary shoots and premature branches shortened in the spring, on which no shoots are left, are also removed.
In early June, when the shoots reach a length of 50-60 cm, one of them is selected to form a central conductor and two as skeletal branches. It is better if the skeletal branches are separated from the central conductor at a distance of 12-15 cm. The remaining shoots, which are not used to form the skeletal parts of the tree, are bent and secured in a horizontal position. The shoot, left as a central conductor, is tied in a vertical position to a stump at the top of the tree. Until the spring of next year, the shoots chosen as skeletal ones are left to grow freely. Care for young trees should be very good. It is necessary that by the end of the growing season the skeletal branches and the central conductor reach a length of about 2 m.
During the formation of the palmette, the central conductor, skeletal branches and their branches are not shortened. The subordination between the individual parts of the crown is established by giving the branches a continuation of the skeletal branches and their branches of different inclinations. Three tiers of skeletal branches are formed. The distance between individual tiers should be 120x140 cm.
In the spring of the second year, after planting on the central conductor, two suitable premature branches are selected as skeletal branches of the second tier. The distance between them should be 12-15 cm. Premature branches located above and between the skeletal branches of the second tier are cut out. 2-3 premature branches located under the lower skeletal branch of the second tier are also removed. Other branches located on the central conductor between the first and second tier are thinned out, cutting out the strongest ones. Some strong branches are left by bending them back and tying them in a horizontal or drooping position.
The skeletal branches of the first tier are slightly bent, but not brought to a permanent position. The final tilt (55-60° relative to the vertical) is given to the skeletal branches when they reach a length of about 2 m. Premature branches located on the inner and outer sides of the skeletal branches are removed, and the lateral ones are thinned out, leaving one branch for every 12-15 cm . All premature branches located in the upper part of the branches of the continuation of the skeletal branches and the central conductor (about 40 cm from the top down) are removed. Strong and elevated growing branches located on skeletal branches are bent into a horizontal position perpendicular to the skeletal branch carrying them.
Overgrown branches are not shortened.
If there is insufficient care during the first growing season, the central conductor does not reach the required height for the formation of the second tier. In this case, in the spring of next year, all premature branches located in the upper part of the central conductor are removed, and those below are thinned out. Numerous shoots develop at the tops of the skeletal branches and the central conductor. When they reach a length of 8-10 cm, the “filizene” operation is performed.
Strong shoots that grow directly under the shoot of the continuation of the skeletal branches and the central conductor, and shoots located on the inside of the skeletal branches are removed.
If the second tier is not laid in the spring from premature branches, green pruning is done in June. On the central conductor in the area where the second tier should be located, two strong premature shoots with a suitable direction are selected. Premature shoots located above the second tier of skeletal branches are removed. 1-2 shoots under the tier are also removed. The shoots located between the first and second tiers of skeletal branches are thinned out. Strong and vertically growing shoots are bent and secured in a horizontal or drooping position. Thin out the overgrowing wood of the skeletal branches of the first tier, cutting out strong shoots growing from the upper and lower sides of the skeletal branches. Strong overgrowing shoots are inclined towards the row spacing.
Formation continues in the third year after planting. At this time, the third tier of skeletal branches is laid. If the central conductor is high enough, the third tier of skeletal branches is selected in early spring from premature branches located on required height. Otherwise, the selection of skeletal branches of the third tier is postponed until the summer, when strong premature growths develop on the shoot of the continuation of the central conductor.
After laying the third tier, the central conductor is left to grow freely, thinning out only the lateral premature branches located on it. The strongest ones are removed and the weak ones are left. The next year, the central conductor is cut at a distance of 70-80 cm from the uppermost skeletal branch.
It is better to shorten to two-year-old wood.
The skeletal branches are secured in a constant oblique position using support structures and devices (see Nos. 257 and 258).
489. HOW TO PRUNE FRUIT-BEARING PEACH TREES?
After 3 tiers of skeletal branches have been formed, peach pruning consists mainly of thinning the crown and selecting mixed branches for fruiting. Overgrowing branches growing from the upper and lower sides of the skeletal branches are cut out. The side branches are thinned out, leaving one for every 16-20 cm. When the side fruit branches are not enough to obtain a good harvest, you can also leave those growing on the inside of the skeletal branches, located in the upper part of the crown, where there is more light. Strong, vertically growing branches are bent and secured in a horizontal or drooping position. The lower parts of the skeletal branches are usually exposed and tops appear on them. These tops are bent and turned into large overgrowing wood. To avoid exposure of the lower and middle parts of the skeletal branches, all lateral branches located 30-40 cm from the top of the skeletal branches downwards are removed. Skeletal branches are not shortened. Gradually their growth weakens and they are evenly covered along their entire length with overgrown wood. Towards the end of the period of full fruiting, the growth energy quickly decreases and then it is necessary to resort to shortening the skeletal branches to 2-3-year-old wood. In this way, peach trees are slightly rejuvenated, causing the formation of stronger growths. With age, strong overgrowing branches, reminiscent of semi-skeletal ones, form on the skeletal branches. They usually occupy an almost horizontal position and grow at right angles from the skeletal branches. Such semi-skeletal branches are located about 40-50 cm from each other. At the base of the skeletal branches their length reaches up to 80 cm, and decreases towards the top. A small number of weak branches are left on the central conductor, located in the areas between the tiers. If there is a sufficient number of mixed branches on the tree, the flower sprigs and may bouquets are removed. The bulk of mixed branches for fruiting are left on the skeletal branches of the lower tiers and closer to the base of the skeletal branches. These rules should be followed when peach trees are fully developed and the plants form a solid wall.
490. HOW DOES APPLICATION OF FERTILIZER AFFECT THE GROWTH AND YIELD OF PEACH TREES?
Fertilization has a positive effect on the growth and fruiting of peach. During the growth period, increased doses of nitrogen contribute to the rapid completion of crown formation. Phosphorus fertilizer improves the quality of fruits. Nitrogen is especially necessary for peach in the first half of the growing season, when strong shoot growth is observed. Adding organic and mineral fertilizers increases the sugar content of peaches.
The total surface of the leaves of peach trees, under which organic and mineral fertilizers have been applied, can be 3 times larger than the surface of the leaves of unfertilized trees.
491. WHEN SHOULD YOU APPLY FERTILIZER TO YOUNG AND FRUIT-BEARING PEACH TREES?
Manure, phosphorus, potassium and 1/3 part nitrogen fertilizer applied in the fall (in the second half of November), immediately before deep tillage. The second third of nitrogen fertilizer is given in early spring, and the third third in mid-June during the period of increased shoot growth. Fertilizing with nitrogen is carried out only in the first half of the growing season. Adding nitrogen in the second half of the growing season can cause trees to freeze. The danger of freezing increases if watering is continued until late and the soil is kept free of weeds.
If after the last fertilizing with nitrogen there are heavy and prolonged rains, so that the growing season does not continue until late autumn, soil cultivation in the garden is stopped.
492. IN WHAT QUANTITY SHOULD FERTILIZER BE APPLIED TO A PEACH?
Peach removes relatively more from the soil nutrients compared to all other fruit breeds. Therefore, it needs increased doses of fertilizers. With the right pre-landing preparation and filling the soil with fertilizers, in the first year after planting peach trees, fertilizers do not need to be applied. Over the next years, until fruiting, it is recommended to give higher doses of organic and mineral fertilizers indicated in Table 4 (see No. 218).
Increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers should also be applied to fruit-bearing peach trees (see Table 6 and No. 223).
493. WHAT CAUSES WAVING OF PEACH LEAVES?
The waviness of peach leaves is caused by the disease “peach leaf curl” (Fig. 223). This disease is caused by a fungus that overwinters as spores under the bud scales. The fungus attacks leaves, shoots, flowers, fruits, but causes the greatest damage to leaves. Infected leaves become wrinkled, turn red and become covered with a powdery coating.
At the end of June, the affected leaves fall off. Fruits on heavily infested trees remain small and tasteless.
Control measures. To protect peach trees from damage by leaf curl, one winter spraying immediately before the buds swell with 1% is enough. Bordeaux mixture or 10% lime-sulfur decoction.
494. WHAT DISEASE CAUSES POWRY POINT ON PEACH LEAVES?
Powdery coating on peach leaves causes disease" powdery mildew"(Fig. 224), which overwinters in infected buds. Powdery mildew affects leaves, shoots, buds and fruits. Affected leaves curl, become covered with a powdery coating and become brittle.
The shoots remain short and covered with a dense coating. White pads form on the fruits.
A characteristic feature of peach powdery mildew is the fact that it develops in both wet and dry years. In addition, it is much more difficult to combat than other peach diseases, especially when trees are massively infected.
Control measures. To reduce sources of infection, the affected shoots are cut out and destroyed, and to protect trees from infection, they are sprayed every 8-10 days with a 2% lime-sulfur decoction, a 0.8% solution of thiozol 80 and other preparations containing sulfur The first spraying is carried out when the first signs of the disease appear, and the last - in mid-August.
495. WHAT DAMAGE DOES THE DISEASE “HOLE SPOTLIGHT OF STONES (CLASTEROSPORIOSIS)” CAUSE IN PEACH AND HOW TO COMBAT IT?
The causative agent of hole spot is a fungus that affects the leaves, fruits, shoots and branches of peach. appear on the leaves brown spots with a purple border, which subsequently fall out, forming holes, as a result of which the leaves look like they have been shot through with shot. Brown spots also form on the fruits, penetrating into the pulp in the form of ulcers. On branches, holey spotting causes the appearance of shells and ulcers. It has been established that the disease can also develop on warm days in winter.
Control measures. Cutting and destroying affected branches; collecting fruits left on the trees; spraying during or immediately after leaf fall with 2% Bordeaux mixture or 1% Bordeaux mixture when the buds are swollen. After flowering, two more sprayings are carried out - the first immediately after flowering and the second 12-14 days after the first with a 2% lime-sulfur decoction or a 0.8% solution of thiozol 80.
496. WHAT DAMAGE DOES THE DISEASE “VERTICILIUM WILT” CAUSE TO PEACH?
The causative agent of this disease is a fungus that is found in the soil. Damage is especially common in those gardens where vegetables are grown as inter-row crops. The fungus develops in the conductive-vascular system of the tree, which is why the plant is supplied with water, especially in hot weather. summer days, is difficult. The leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. Only the leaves remain on the tops of the shoots in the form of bouquets. On a cross section of the branches you can see brown and black circles.
Control measures. Uprooting infected trees.
497. HOW TO DISTINGUISH BACTERIOSIS FROM HOLE SPOTTING OF LEAVES?
On the leaves, bacteriosis causes pale yellow spots, which subsequently fall out. In this regard, bacteriosis resembles hole spotting. The difference is that there is no purple border around the spots caused by bacteriosis. The bacteria also infect the branches where they overwinter.
Control measures. Control is carried out by spraying, in the same way as in the case of perforated spot (see No. 495).
498. WHAT VIRAL DISEASES ARE FOUND IN PEACHES?
Peach is affected by the following viral diseases: yellow dog rot, purple mosaic, leaf marbling (calico), infectious chlorosis, mosaic disease, wart and others.
499. WHAT OTHER DISEASES AFFECT THE PEACH?
Scab. This disease is rare on peach. Dark olive spots form on the fruits, with a green border on red fruits.
Control measures. Spraying immediately after flowering and again after 12-14 days with a 0.8% solution of thiozol 80 or colloidal sulfur.
Rust(see No. 463). In Bulgaria, rust rarely affects peach.
Other diseases. Peach is affected by fruit rot (see No. 381), bacterial cancer (see No. 263), apoplexy (see No. 519) and other diseases.
Sooty fungus. Peach is very strongly affected by aphids, on whose sugary secretions a sooty fungus develops (see No. 390).
500. WHAT DAMAGE DOES THE PEACH MOTH CAUSE TO PEACH AND HOW TO FIGHT IT?
The peach moth overwinters in the caterpillar stage in the buds, in fruits and at the base of branching shoots. In spring, caterpillars bite into shoots, causing them to dry out. The peach moth produces three generations per year. Worminess of fruits is caused by caterpillars of the second and third generations.
Control measures. Cutting out and destroying affected shoots. Spraying with fosthiol N 40 (0.12%), sevin 85 (0.10%), guzathion (0.2%) at the appearance of caterpillars of each generation.
501. HOW TO FIGHT THE GREEN BEETLE?
The beetles gnaw out the pulp of peach leaves, leaving only the veins. In May, the female lays eggs shallowly in the soil. The hatched larvae feed on plant roots and overwinter in the soil.
Control measures. Spraying with a 0.4% solution of thiophenite 20 or a 0.12% solution of fosthiol N 40.
502. WHAT TYPES OF APHIDS AND SCALE INTENS DO HARM TO PEACHES?
Aphids(see No. 390). Peach is harmed by plum pollinated (reed) aphid, peach (greenhouse) aphid, dark peach aphid, large peach aphid, black peach aphid, myzodes varians and others.
Shields(see No. 390). Of the scale insects, the most dangerous for peach is the mulberry scale.
503. DO OTHER PESTS AFFECT THE PEACH?
In some regions of Bulgaria (Sandansky, Petrichsky), the cherry social sawfly (cherry weaver sawfly) causes great harm to peach (see No. 541). Peach is also affected by black borer (see No. 521), some types of mites (see No. 391), leaf-eating caterpillars (see No. 387) and other pests.
504. WHAT MEASURES SHOULD BE TAKEN TO PROTECT PEACHES FROM DAMAGE BY DISEASES AND PESTS?
The longevity and productivity of peach depends on climatic conditions, as well as on the presence or absence of damage by hole spot, leaf curl, verticillium wilt, powdery mildew, some viral diseases, aphids, peach moth, etc. Therefore, areas with good air drainage, uninfected with Verticillium wilt, bacterial canker, black borer and other diseases and pests. It is also necessary to ensure that only healthy planting material is planted, without signs of viral and other diseases.
In addition to agrotechnical and mechanical control measures, the following chemical measures are used to protect peach trees from pests and diseases.
1. Winter spraying immediately after leaf fall with 2% Bordeaux mixture. This spraying is carried out to combat hole spot, fruit rot, leaf curl and other diseases.
2. Spraying before flowering with 1% Bordeaux mixture or thiozol 80 (0.8%) with the addition of fosthiol H 40 (0.12%) or wofatox 30 (0.15%) to combat hole spot, leaf curl, bacteriosis , aphids, scale insects, etc.
3. Immediately after flowering, spray with thiozol 80 (0.8%) and fosthiol H 40 (0.12%) or dipterex (0.15%), or sevin 85 (0.1%) to combat holey spotting and powdery mildew , aphids, peach moths, leaf-eating insects, etc.
4. After 12-14 days, a second similar spraying is carried out to combat the same diseases and pests.
5. To protect peach trees from damage by powdery mildew, continue spraying with a 0.8% solution of thiozol 80 every 8-10 days until secondary growth stops.
505. WHEN ARE PEACHES HARVESTED?
Peaches are ripe when they are still firm to the touch but have acquired the typical coloring of the variety. In varieties with yellow flesh, the main color of the skin of the fruit at this moment is creamy-yellow, and in varieties with white flesh it is creamy-greenish. Due to the uneven ripening of all fruits on the tree, harvesting is carried out selectively. Fruits with lower parts After removal, the tree crowns are immediately placed in trays, and from the upper parts - in baskets. Peaches should be picked very carefully, as the fruits are delicate and easily damaged. When picking, the fruit is covered with the entire hand and, without pressure, slightly turned to the side. Peaches intended for export are harvested 5-6 days earlier.
It has always been believed that the peach tree, its spring blossoms and abundant harvest are the privilege of the most southern regions countries. Since the middle of the last century, breeders and hobbyists have been promoting the culture into the middle zone. Peach can displace apricots in country gardens, because it is more resistant to return frosts, and the seedling from the seed inherits the maternal qualities. Fifty lovers of the Moscow region have been cultivating peach in bush form for more than 10 years.
Description of the peach tree
Garden varieties come from the common peach, bush or single-stem form. The height of the tree can reach 9 meters, but spreading trees of 3-4 meters are more common. Root system the peach is superficial, located in the fertile layer up to 70 cm. Peaches love warmth, light and abundant watering. The tree bears fruit for 20 years, starting from the second year after rooting.
The peach tree is a cross-pollinated species. Several varieties growing nearby will increase the fruiting of each, especially if you create a fruit conveyor from July to September, collecting specimens different periods maturation. The keeping quality of peaches is low.
Peach trees cannot be called frost-resistant. They lose part of their roots during winter frosts -25, if they last more than three days. The roots will withstand severe frost of 30-35 degrees for 24 hours. A short dormant period awakens the tree during winter thaws that occur in winter.
The tender peach is difficult to endure wintering. The crown cannot withstand temperatures of -20 without shelter, and fruit buds and last year's growth die. The consolation is that the peach tree has a great self-healing ability and within a year the frozen tree will bloom again.
Peach agricultural technology for each climate zone
It is customary to grow peach trees in climate zones with mild climates. At the same time, they form a cup-shaped crown of trees, penetrated by the rays of the sun, located at a distance of at least 3 meters.
For areas with cold winters, the bush form and thickened plantings are more suitable. Here fruit links are formed from the lower shoots. Low-lying branches can be easily covered in winter, ensuring the safety of fruit buds.
You should purchase only seedlings of zoned and recommended varieties of peaches. Gardeners get good results by growing a tree from a local variety of peach seeds.
Peach care is year-round and includes techniques that allow you to create conditions for long-term annual fruiting. Therefore, peach agricultural technology in the Caucasus and Moscow region includes the same operations, but they are performed using different technologies:
- planting dates and varieties;
- formation of a young and fruit-bearing tree;
- watering and fertilizing;
- protection from pests and;
- preparation for wintering and spring awakening of the tree.
Each of these activities is based on practical techniques that help a demanding tree survive in hostile conditions.
How to grow a fruit-bearing peach tree in the Moscow region
Research conducted by scientists from the Botanical Garden, who studied the experience of amateur gardeners in the Moscow region in growing peaches, allowed us to draw some conclusions:
- Seedlings grown from seeds of local varieties retain their maternal qualities if taken from own-rooted peach. Seedlings from rootstocks are sterile.
- Own-rooted peaches exhibit greater resistance to local conditions.
- It is proposed to form fruit tree so as to give a bush shape, leaving mainly young growth.
- Trees need to be planted so that they can be covered in the middle of winter. Create a screen from the north wind even in summer.
- Use seedlings grafted onto almonds and cherry plums. Apricot Jardel is an unsuccessful rootstock for peach.
How to care for a peach tree? An example of proper agricultural technology for middle zone can serve as a Kostetsky lover's garden. The harvest from each of 20 peaches in 2011 amounted to 30 kg per tree. He obtained such results by adapting to the needs of southerners for 20 years.
Recommendations for those interested in growing peaches in the Moscow region:
- Planting several varieties of seedlings with a distance between holes of 3x4 meters.
- Spring cutting out dry, weak, non-fruiting branches. After flowering, thinning is required, removing excess ovary, then the fruits reach 150-200 g in weight.
- Protection – 4 times in spring spraying 1% copper sulfate against leaf curl, hole spotting.
The gardener fertilizes the plants all year round. After a year, 3 kg/sq.m. crumbles. m of plot area with humus in a mixture and potassium salt for the entire area of the garden in the fall. In early spring Fertilize with liquid organic matter annually. In winter, more than half a bucket of wood ash is poured into each hole. In the spring, when the buds swell, 300 g of complex fertilizer is applied to the tree trunk circle and filled with 5-6 buckets of water. After flowering, liquid 10% organic matter is added to the tree trunk circle in the amount of 3-4 buckets. In August, fertilizing is repeated with the addition of half a glass of superphosphate to the bucket.
In the fall, when the leaves fall, each tree receives another 10 buckets of water. Then the earth is mulched with humus. There is always space left near the trunk to prevent diaper rash.
Obtaining peach seedlings from pits
If you take a seed from your own rooted local peach variety, it will impart to the seedling resistance to climatic conditions, the size and taste of the mother fruit. How to grow a peach from a pit? Can be grown at home, in a pot. To do this, you need to keep the seed in water for 4 days, then remove it, split the seed, and plant the kernel in a pot.
For spring planting peaches need to be artificially stratified in winter. In a cool place, the stone is stored all winter in damp sand. In the spring, the seed will burst and a seedling will appear; it needs to be placed in a tub.
In the fall, you can spread the seeds into well-prepared soil at a distance of 10 cm. In the spring they will sprout, by the fall they will reach a height of 1.5 m and give off lateral branches. Next, they are seated in prepared planting pits.
In autumn, young plants are planted without cutting off the top branches, but the roots are shortened slightly. In spring, on the contrary, they pinch off the tops, beginning the formation of the tree.
Spring is the most important period in peach care.
Nature is awakening. It is at this time that the gardener begins to struggle to protect the peach from pests and diseases, and to form the future harvest.
Caring for peach in the spring involves timely releasing the branches and roots from the protective cover so as not to create diaper rash on the trunk. At the same time, protective measures should be carried out and fertilizing should be carried out in accordance with the schedule. As soon as the flower buds begin to swell, within 3 weeks it is time for the gardener to form a crown. The event is responsible, requiring practical skills and well-sharpened tools. How to properly prune peaches in spring, watch the video for beginners:
The main goals of spring pruning:
- rid the tree of fattening branches;
- provide access to sunlight for fruiting shoots;
- remove old branches that already have few fruitful shoots.
It must be remembered that pruning is an operation during which the tree can be weakened. It should be as gentle as possible. You cannot immediately cover the wet cut with garden varnish after pruning. You can apply a protective layer after 3-4 days to avoid gum formation.
Only a well-groomed, strong tree can decorate a garden and bear delicious, aromatic fruits.
Spring peach pruning - video
Previously, a peach in a dacha could be considered a landmark, but today own plots you can meet the most various varieties. The only problem is to choose the right variety so that it can cover all your requirements and produce a good harvest every year.
And, it’s true, just a dozen or two years ago there weren’t so many peaches in their dachas, but now, when you can buy high-quality seedlings in any city or town, many summer residents plant the crop in the garden and expect juicy, fleshy and very sweet fruits. Unfortunately, not all hopes are justified, because in order to grow a high-quality crop, you need to choose the right variety for your region, the soil and climate, and many other criteria.
Today we decided to explore some varieties of peach, which, in our opinion, are most worthy of settling in a dacha. It should be understood that each region has its own variety.
Early peach varieties 2018
The fruits of early varieties can be tasted already in the first half of summer. But to do this, you need to choose a high-quality seedling and plant it on the site, according to agricultural technology.
Kyiv early
Kiev early attracts not only summer residents, but also professional entrepreneurs who grow this variety in the Crimea and in many other regions where it has been warm since spring. It is distinguished by juicy and very tasty fruits of medium size, medium density and beautiful, light yellow or pink tint colors.
Kiev early is an industrial variety, and therefore its seedlings will be quite easy to obtain. After purchasing, you will only need to plant the plant and try to devote maximum time to it in the first years of its life.
The plant shows high yield and excellent resistance to powdery mildew and cluster blight. Kiev early does not like excessively dry soil, but it also has an extremely negative attitude towards waterlogging.
Redhaven
If you are looking for a really luscious and delicious variety, great for you Redhaven. This is a visiting variety that is perfectly adapted to local growing conditions, and therefore can show good results in both private and industrial breeding.
Redhaven produces large fruits, sometimes more than 150 g, which have an excellent taste (almost the highest tasting rating). The color of the fruit is orange-yellow, with red spots or inclusions, the flesh is yellow, tender, with a pleasant and very strong aroma. This is why children like Redhaven so much, and adults don’t mind trying an excellent peach with an unforgettable taste.
The variety is resistant to winter and spring frosts, leaf curl and many other diseases, but is affected by fungal diseases, especially with improper agricultural practices. But, you can always protect a tree from diseases if you fertilize it in time and stimulate growth and development, as well as take preventive measures that experts recommend for each individual variety.
Collins
Peach is very productive, and therefore the fruits must be removed from the tree on time so that the harvest does not break the branches. Try to pick peaches sequentially, as they do not ripen simultaneously, but over a period of time.
This variety is resistant to curl and powdery mildew, and tolerates winter and spring frosts well.
A special feature of the variety is the great need for fertilizing, regular watering and timely pruning to form a crown. Only a well-groomed tree can please you with a stable harvest of large fruits.
In addition to the varieties we have indicated, you can always plant other early varieties in your dacha, for example, Juicy peach and Moretini Favorite.
Medium and late ripening peaches
There are quite a lot of fruits at the dacha that yield early, and therefore some summer residents prefer more late varieties peaches Perhaps the reason is the consistent consumption of tasty vitamins throughout the warm season. Let's choose for planting in the country best varieties peach late maturing.
Cardinal
The variety attracts with its persistent charm, because each individual fruit is a real masterpiece. Average size, weight 140 g, carmine blush, sometimes replaced by pure yellow skin... and if we talk about taste qualities, so here you can completely forget yourself, because 5 points on the main tasting scale is the height of perfection. Of course, there are other juicy, sweet and aromatic varieties, but Cardinal is definitely among the leaders.
Planting material You can always find it on sale, but purchasing a seedling is just the beginning, because this variety will require special care from you, since it does not tolerate frost very well.
If we talk about diseases, powdery mildew is not scary for Cardinal, and this is seriously encouraging. Try to constantly keep the plant in good shape, supply it with fertilizers and moisture on time, because the formation of a large harvest requires constant feeding.
Kremlevsky
Adapts perfectly to almost any, naturally, reasonable conditions. This characteristic makes the Kremlin variety very popular, despite the fact that it does not produce fruits of special sizes at a constant level, although some trees bear fruit with peaches weighing 200 g.
The fruits are orange or yellow, with a red blush or extensive inclusions, very juicy and aromatic, with a sweet or sour-sweet taste.
The variety is little susceptible to many diseases and shows high winter hardiness, which is very good for regions with cool climates.
It is worth growing it under standard conditions, but try to carefully monitor watering, since trees do not really like strong moisture. Therefore, they need to be planted on flat areas or hills, and watered rarely, but systematically.
The description of peach varieties will give you only basic information for choosing seedlings. In the future, you will have serious work on growing, caring for and reproducing.
New varieties for 2018
Sunrise, Golden Jubilee, White Swan, Veteran, Ambassador of Peace, Redgold, Flowertop, Bohun, Greensboro, Jaminat, Krasnodarets, Raduzhny, Stavropolsky, Elberta - everyone famous varieties, which can often be seen in the country, but we would like to introduce you to American and Canadian varieties peach, which are adapted to our climate and show excellent results by yield.
Among these varieties there are nectarines, fig peaches, frost-resistant and simply winter-hardy varieties: Harbinger, Harrow Diamond, Harnas, Early Redhaven, Harko, Suncrest, Inca.
We understand perfectly well that choosing the right peach varieties for your garden is quite difficult., but you need to make the right choice if you want to receive large, sweet, juicy and fragrant fruits of a wonderful plant throughout the summer, or even at the beginning of autumn. Be careful, because you need to purchase not just selection variety, the description of which you liked, but it must be an adapted seedling, preferably famous or even recommended to you by a neighbor-dacha resident who has been harvesting from trees for several years. Of course, you can always go to online stores or botanical gardens, but this is at your own peril and risk.