Concrete floors in bathhouses on a pile foundation. How to insulate the floor in a steam frame bathhouse on a pile foundation? Insulating the floor in a steam room

In the event that the construction of a steam room is planned in an area with a rainy climate and high level ground moisture, then the best solution There will be a bathhouse on stilts. Ideal waterproofing does not exist in nature. A box raised above the ground wooden bath it is deprived of direct contact with wet soil, and excellent ventilation blows out the remaining water condensation from under the foundation on screw supports.

Bathhouse project on screw piles

The most unsuccessful way in the process of choosing a suitable internal layout is to come up with your own layout of a bathhouse or try to build a building of an unusual complex configuration on stilts. A bathhouse, even the simplest one, assembled from profiled timber, is a complex complex that is calculated and adjusted in practice to the right sizes and characteristics. Any mistake in ensuring the rigidity or stability of the walls will lead to subsidence and rupture of the roof joints.

Therefore, even the most inveterate lovers of a good steam room for building a bathhouse on screw piles with their own hands they prefer to use a standard design of metal supports. IN standard box on a screw-on base they simply add small details, for example using their own flooring and decorative wall trim.

One such project is shown in the diagram and figure below.

Main characteristics of a bath box on metal screw piles:

A rigid base on screw piles ensures good stability of the bathhouse, but there is no point in making the sauna or steam room higher; it will be cold and very humid. You can’t reduce the height of the ceilings; the room will turn out cramped and stuffy.

How to build a sauna on screw piles

The seemingly ideal solution to make a bathhouse on stilts actually conceals many small problems, which are best solved at the stage of sketch drawing and rough design. You can build a bath project box on 6x6 m piles using a team in 12-15 days. Of these, 1-2 days will be required to immerse the foundation of screw piles. On Finishing work and connecting communications, a stove and insulating the room will take about the same amount.

The scope of work for the construction of a bathhouse on screw piles includes the following stages:

For big projects, With maximum length walls more than 6 m, it is easier and cheaper to order the assembly of a bathhouse from timber on screw piles in a complex from a specialized company, and interior decoration premises, installation and finishing work to be carried out independently.

If you are planning a bathhouse on stilts with your own hands, then it is quite possible to build a simple 3x4 m log house yourself, for example, for a summer house or suburban area. You don’t even have to order a project, but use a standard solution and recommendations from specialists. In this case, you can save up to 20 thousand rubles only on the assembly of a small-sized screw foundation.

A building made of timber with a maximum wall length of up to 6 m can be built in tandem with one, or preferably two, assistants. True, it will take at least a month and a half to build the box, excluding screw piles. Lifting a profiled beam onto a bathhouse wall alone, as well as driving screw piles, is simply physically impossible work.

For your information! The weight of a standard six-meter piece of timber with an edge of 140 mm reaches 100 kg.

Choosing a pile foundation for a bathhouse

In the above bathhouse project, 11 screw piles are used, with a diameter of 105 mm and a height of 2.5 m. Each support can withstand a load of more than 2 tons, so the stability margin of the structure is more than 2.2 times. 11 screw piles.

The installation plan is determined by the characteristics of the load distribution from the weight of the bathhouse walls. The steam room, washing compartment and living room do not have massive furniture or heavy objects, so the main load falls on the walls of the building.

The log house is not heavy, no more than 3.5 tons, has high rigidity, so for the foundation it will be enough to screw four screw supports under two opposite walls - front and rear. Three more piles are placed along the center line of the internal partition.

Conventional cold-rolled steel pipes with a two-layer layer are used as screw supports. epoxy coating. Upon completion of the construction of the bathhouse, the base part is sewn up with a horizontal lath with a small gap for ventilation of the foundation.

Principles of installation of screw piles

To install the supports, you can use a specialized machine, portable power tools, or wrap the pipes manually. The larger the diameter and the number of screw piles, the more arguments in favor of the mechanized method.

To wrap the support you will need:

Construction plumb line;
Gate pipe with a shoulder length of at least two meters;
Ballast weight;
Several tens of liters of clay solution in water.

Each pile is installed on the ground at the place where it is driven, loaded with ballast and leveled plumb in strict vertical position. While one worker holds the screw support vertically, two assistants use a steel lever to screw the pipe into the ground, adding clay solution.

After installing all screw piles on the foundation field, marking cords are pulled and the pipe heads are cut so that the cutting line of all supports is in one strictly horizontal plane. Support platforms made of steel plates or strips of metal are welded onto the cut racks.

Making a frame

Before assembling the walls of the bathhouse from profiled timber, screw piles must be laid on the frame. The base frame is sewn from solid oak timber 150-200 mm or polished sleepers 220-250 cm long.

The strapping material is fixed on screw piles using anchor bolts with an undercut of the head to hide the nut in the thickness of the wood. Before fixing it on screw piles, each section of the strapping is checked with a building level and, if necessary, leveled with washers or thin metal. One of the options for tying the foundation of a bathhouse on screw piles is shown in the video

Assembling the log house

The installation of bathhouse walls on screw piles is practically no different from the process of laying profiled timber. The first beam is mounted on an adhesive or mastic base, the steel crowns of the bath are laid out “dry”, with a lining of jute or synthetic fiber.

If the bathhouse box is assembled from profiled timber, then the remaining cracks between the crowns are caulked with flax mat with the addition of wood glue. After assembling the strapping frame on screw piles on the timber using metal corners and “moths” are laid on the subfloor logs. You can use a board with a cross-section of 150x40 mm or even an inch board, since the rough base does not experience much load.

The floor in the bathhouse is on screw piles

The method of arranging the subfloor and finished floor depends on the assembly method and material. If a bathhouse on stilts is built from ordinary timber or logs, then only a subfloor is installed in the room.

Laying of the finished floor begins only after completion of the shrinkage processes. If the box and load-bearing elements The baths are assembled from glued profiled material, then rough lining, insulation, waterproofing and the finished floor can be laid within a couple of months after completion of construction.

The level of packing of the lag beams of the subfloor is selected below the plane of the timber frame of the screw piles. The difference in height can be calculated by adding up the thickness of the padding boards, insulation and waterproofing membrane. After laying the sandwich on the floor, the plane of the foam insulation slabs should coincide with the piping line of the screw piles, as in the video

Bathhouse on screw piles: floor insulation

To assemble the subfloor of the bathhouse, an off-grade board is used; you can even use a belt loop or unedged lumber. The condition of the screw supports is not affected by the subfloor, the main thing is that the material is of the same thickness.

The boards are nailed onto the joists with ordinary nails, no screws, the fasteners are hit at the ends of the inch, moving 10-15 cm from the edge.

Sheet polystyrene foam is best suited for insulating the floor of a bathhouse on screw supports; you can take penoplex or technoplex. For middle latitudes, you can insulate the subfloor of a bathhouse with sheets 50 mm thick; if frosts in winter are more than 40 o C, then it is best to lay two layers of foam insulation.

Advice! Before laying the insulation, craftsmen advise laying a wooden strip with a cross-section of 20x30 mm around the perimeter of the subfloor. Thanks to it, the surface of the slabs forms a drain slope towards the hole, the water will not stagnate and drain much faster.

Waterproofing the floor in a bathhouse on stilts

Before laying waterproofing on the subfloor in slab insulation, it is necessary to cut a hole for the outlet of the bellows cup of the water drainage system. The diameter of the hole in polystyrene foam should be equal to or 1.5-2 mm larger than the cross-section of a corrugated or plastic pipe.

After installing the corrugation, film insulation can be laid. The best option For the floor of a bathhouse on screw piles, an EPDM rubber membrane is considered. The material is rolled out as a single sheet over the surface of the insulation, and applied to the walls 25-30 mm per side.

To hold the waterproofing sheet around the perimeter of the washing or steam bath room, an aluminum threshold is stuffed, pressing the material against the insulation.

At the drain point, cut a hole with a diameter smaller than the internal diameter of the drain, after which the upper flange is installed drain device and tighten the structure with the mounting screw.

Shower floors in a bathhouse on stilts

The next stage of building a bathhouse is installing the finishing floor. Metal mounting “moths” are first attached to the walls, on which the finished floor joists are laid. The distance between the beams depends on the size of the steam room of the bathhouse; the screw foundation ensures high rigidity of the base, but experts recommend installing the floor in the bathhouse on stilts with a step of 50 cm between the beams.

Floor boards are laid on the logs, usually 25-35 mm thick floorboards are made removable on wooden pins. The boards themselves are sanded and chamfered to avoid splinters and chips.

Gaps of 1.5-2 mm remain between the floorboards; this scheme ensures reliable drainage of water even when large quantities washable, and the removable floor of the bathhouse on a pile-screw foundation allows you to periodically remove the boards and clean the lower level.

Drain in a bathhouse on screw piles

The bathhouse floor, raised on screw supports, can be insulated with outside backfilled with perlite or regular foam. The outlet from the washing compartment and steam room must be connected through a bellows and elbow to a plastic sewer pipe. The sump must have drain and flush taps, otherwise it will be difficult to clean it and drain the water if the bathhouse on stilts spends the winter without load.

If you plan to use the steam room all year round, then the drain ladder or corrugation is installed without a bellows, and the inlet opening must be closed with a removable lid. For winter baths on piles, the use of a ladder is not recommended, since the water seal inside the housing may freeze and break the mounting flange.

Conclusion

A sauna on stilts is rightly considered one of the most optimal options foundation design. In addition to good waterproofing and High Quality insulation, this scheme provides unhindered access to drainage systems, water pipes. Often screw supports are the only ones left possible option building a bathhouse on weak, water-logged soil.

In most cases, a bathhouse on screw piles is good way quickly build the desired building with your own hands with comparative budget savings. It is better to immediately build with the expectation of year-round use.

Even in case of winter downtime, everything internal structures will be more reliably protected from climatic influences. The internal layout, walls, roof will not differ from similar buildings on other types of foundation.

Advantages

Raising a bathhouse on screw piles above the ground makes it possible not only to break the connection with freezing soil and storm flows, but also to allow the natural flow of used water through cracks and drains. In the space below the necessary premises arrange concrete tray for collecting and draining liquid into the drain hole.

The slotted structure is called a flowing floor. The gap between the boards is maintained at 0.7 cm, then when the wood swells, the gap will not overlap. The necessary ventilation and access for cleaning in the underground are structurally solved by a pile foundation with a height from the zero level of at least 0.5 m.

What to pay attention to

Lighter bath structures are usually built on screw piles with your own hands. Can be built brick walls on a concrete grillage or slab, but this will require a rigidly tied pile field. Construction from wood materials reduces total weight and thermal conductivity.

The piles are screwed in with a clearance of 2÷3 m, depending on the rigidity of the base beams. It is advisable to tie the central pillars with a channel to support the lag.

When designing the number and location of support points, you need to take into account the location of the bathhouse equipment. A stove, water tanks, and other equipment that creates variable thermal and weight loads over the mounting area need to be installed on a securely fixed base.

The rise of moisture from the post is prevented by laying a layer of roofing material on the head, protruding a couple of centimeters at the edges.

There must be a drain in every room. Where water is not used for washing, it is used for cleaning and disinfection. If you plan to visit the bathhouse once a week or less, do not install drains with a water seal. They will dry out and there will be a smell. Wastewater. In this case, it is better to install a dry shutter.

Installing a sauna on screw piles

When each of the screw piles reaches its stop, you need to cut it with a grinder to the required level. U frame houses is a horizontal plane. The log house has a difference between the longitudinal and transverse logs of the crown. It can be chosen by linings or different heights trimming pillars (150 mm).

Making a frame

The base is made of timber with a 150 mm edge. For heavy structures - 200 mm. Assembly order:

We lay it out on the heads, mark the cutouts in the “floor of the tree” or “in the paw”;
We fold the frame onto the heads along the cutouts, fasten 1 screw in each corner;
We achieve a right angle at intersections by measuring the diagonals;
We fix it with a second screw at each intersection;
We fasten from below with bolts to the heads;
We cut the inner beam into the floor of the tree.

The wall posts will be located at a distance of 0.6 m, so the clearance between the piles must be calculated taking this into account. In addition, you should carefully approach the choice of wood material and the installation of vapor barriers in frame buildings intended for bathhouses.

Assembling the log house

The log house has a small area without loaded interior walls installation is often performed directly on its crown instead of a grillage. The log of the first row should always be thicker than the next. It is not laid directly on the head, but on a lining made of larch or beech boards, pre-treated with resin (except for the ends). The difference between the longitudinal and transverse logs is compensated by the thickness of the board. The corner is additionally secured with a staple.

The frame is also placed on a grillage made of channel bars. Holes are drilled in the crown from below, under which vertical pins are welded to the steel frame. The log is “put on” the rod. Get a tight grip. Watch the video on how to mount a log house on piles.

Ready option

If you need to install a ready-made building on a foundation, then its corners are additionally secured and, with the help of jacks, linings, and an I-beam, they are lifted into place.

Floor construction

When building this type of bathhouse with your own hands, it is very important to provide the correct floor design, the construction of which directly depends on the foundation. Hot steam condenses and tends to flow down, just like water from a shower. Therefore, the design of a non-leaking bathhouse floor, located on a raised platform of screw piles, is more complex:

Draft level

Plank covering, without cracks, treated with antifungal impregnations. It is lined with film materials to protect it from moisture from below, and filled with expanded clay.

The top is also covered with film. The use of roofing felt and other bitumen-containing coatings may complicate life in the future unpleasant smell resin. The height of the drain pipes and passages under them at all floor levels are marked immediately.

Thermal insulation

Insulation is made from available material:

Mineral wool (stitched mats, roll) – 0.25 m thick;
Foam polymer, polystyrene foam (slab) – 0.15 m.

Top protection from moisture is required. Expanded polystyrene is resistant to this effect. Other insulation materials reduce their properties. Membrane coatings have proven themselves to be excellent protection. They are produced in sufficient length and width (maximum 61×15.5 m) to be covered in one piece, with an overlap up the walls. IN frame house vapor barrier is also done on the walls, with the release of condensate onto the membrane for drainage by gravity.

Protect and decorate

Installing a bathhouse on a raised platform using screw piles with your own hands will be completely completed after installing the base. It will protect against the accumulation of debris under the house, in winter - from snow drifts, create an additional barrier to heat loss and decorate the view. Depending on the height above ground level, floor design, and the concept of the entire building, siding can be used, fake diamond, decorative coatings.

We must not forget to equip technological manholes for inspecting the foundation. Clear the interior space of the fertile layer and fill it with crushed stone and sand.

In areas with difficult terrain and unstable soils, the right solution is to build a bathhouse on screw pile foundations. Such a structure can be located on the shore of a reservoir or on a slope, significantly reducing the occupied area of the site. The arrangement of the premises remains practically unchanged, however, the drainage in the bathhouse on screw piles is arranged with some features.

Construction Features

A bathhouse is a structure with a unique operating mode. Warming up of rooms occurs infrequently, but up to very significant temperatures with prolonged cooling, therefore frame structures are ideal for its construction.

Frame bathhouse on screw piles is one of the most common types

This choice is due to the following factors:

There is no need to insulate the walls, because there is no stable heating and maintaining heat for a long time loses all meaning;
IN winter period walls made of logs or bricks turn into blocks of ice, which cannot be warmed up quickly;
An insulating material is laid inside the frame, which allows you to retain heat from the stove, warm up the rooms faster and reduce heating costs;
Wooden floor in bathhouses on a screw pile foundation warms up much faster than a concrete screed or monolithic slab;
Ordinary wooden flooring It is not possible to organize water drainage from the foundation, or to organize high-quality drainage in bathhouses on screw piles.

Instead of making a frame from the inside along the walls of a log house or brick box, it is better to immediately make a frame bathhouse, which will cost much less. Concrete screeds or slab grillages should be replaced with wooden floors on joists with a moisture removal device using EPDM membranes.

Drainage device for floor insulation

When performing work, the most practical and economical option is a device for insulating the floor in a bathhouse of a standard and familiar design between the finishing and rough flooring on joists. To perform waterproofing, a membrane is located at the bottom, through which water will be drained.

An ordinary drain with a water seal in bathhouses on pile foundations dries up, and the smell from the septic tanks penetrates the rooms. When insulating floors, it is recommended to use a drain with a dry water seal instead of a conventional drain.

Waterproofing the floor

In the sauna rooms, the humidity increases significantly during its use. Wooden walls insulated from moisture using vapor barrier film materials. In the washroom, water gets directly onto the floor, and the effectiveness of insulation can noticeably decrease. Plates of extruded polystyrene foam are not afraid of water, but other materials lose their thermal insulation characteristics after getting wet.

There are several ways to waterproof the floor, and with it the foundation of the bathhouse:

Surfacing of rolled materials onto the slab and coating the surface with mastics (for concrete floors);
Laying a durable membrane on the insulation and subfloor (for wooden floors).

For both options, drainage can be arranged without any problems, but in the second case, the floor will heat up much faster.

Drain device

Due to the fact that panel, frame baths or log buildings are mainly built on a pile foundation, the grillage is constructed mainly from timber or rolled metal.

In this case, draining can be done in several ways at once:

Pouring the slab grillage;
By laying an asbestos-cement sheet on the beams with a screed or facing with flat slate tiles on it, and ensuring the required slope due to the difference in the thickness of the glue;
By securing a galvanized sheet to a grillage with a slope towards the sewer drain (for wooden floors);
By laying a membrane on the subfloor, attached to both side surfaces of the walls (for wooden floors).

Each option provides for insulation under a layer of waterproofing. The walls must be covered with mastic, covered with hydroglass insulation and covered with a membrane at least 10 cm above the horizontal floor level.

Membrane drainage device

The most economical option is to drain using EPDM membranes. The design will be like this:

Subfloor joists secured with metal holders;
Subfloor, which can be made from tightly laid boards 25-30 cm;
Insulation, which is used as EPPS with a thickness of 80-100 mm;
Gangway installed in rough floor both in insulating material and inserted into a drain with a dry water seal;
Membrane laid over the entire perimeter. It should also be placed on the walls on the sides, taking into account the elevation of the finished floor;
Finishing flooring logs secured with profile holders;
Finish coating in the form edged boards, which is not recommended to be firmly fixed, but attached to 10 mm dowels.

This fastening of the finishing coating allows you to remove the boards in any area for garbage collection and sewer drain cleaning. For the water drainage device, the slope is arranged directly in the membrane during installation. The bottom of the EPDM is pressed, then the waterproofing is slightly raised towards the top and secured with slight tension.

Attaching the membrane around the perimeter must be done directly to the crowns of the log house using aluminum slats, which can be purchased at building materials stores.

Watch the video on how to waterproof a drain using a membrane and install a drain cover.

For frame baths In order to line the walls from the inside, a vapor barrier device is necessary, and the scheme will undergo some changes:

First, the subfloor is laid, and its insulation is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first solution;
The membrane is fixed to the walls with a slight launch using a stapler; tension is created for the drainage device;
The frame of the walls is sheathed with a vapor barrier material, while its lower edge is laid on top of EPDM - when moisture accumulates, it will flow onto the membrane without destruction wooden elements power frame.

Application of sheet materials

Creating a slope from porcelain stoneware or tiles using sheet materials will cost a little more, but it is quite possible to do it yourself.

Watch the video on how to make a drain slope using tiles.

In this case, it is necessary to observe the following technology:

The subfloor is made of edged boards on joists;
Extruded polystyrene foam XP5 is used as insulation;
Dry screed is made from asbestos-cement sheets or CSP;
For waterproofing, an EPDM membrane and coating with polymer mastic are used;
The drainage is arranged only in the form of ladders with dry water seals;
For cladding, tiles or porcelain stoneware are used, laid with an inclination towards the ladder.

In bathhouses with a foundation of any type, you cannot use bitumen and epoxy mastics, as well as rolled materials with a welded surface, otherwise there is a high risk of unpleasant odors.

Drainage device when screeding

Screed without coating is performed in order to save on finishing. In this case, you will need wooden ladders that are laid when using the bathhouse, and removed at the end of the bathing procedures for drying.

In this case, the drainage is arranged after two- or three-layer waterproofing of the screed with mastics, penetrating substances or using hydroglass insulation. Sewage drains are embedded in the foundation, for which it is best to use dry water seals.

Drainage device when pouring the slab

The slab is poured during the construction of the foundation grillage. In this case, the drainage slope is set directly along the slab, and the sewer hole is arranged by installing a pipe of the required diameter into the formwork.

On difficult terrain and problematic soil, the only solution is a bathhouse on screw piles. It can be placed on the shore for dipping between paired procedures, on a slope, saving useful space on the site. However, it is necessary to take into account the operational features of this outbuilding.

Due to folk traditions, the bathhouse is a building with unique operating conditions. For rare heating of interior spaces to extreme temperatures followed by a week-long break, frame structures are optimal:

the building does not need to be insulated from the outside, since in the absence of constant heating there is no point in retaining heat;
in winter, brick, log massive walls are actually blocks of ice, which are physically impossible to heat quickly;
inside frame structures an insulation is installed that retains the heat of the stove indoors, the rooms heat up faster, less firewood is consumed;
a wooden floor in a bathhouse on screw piles warms up more efficiently than a multi-ton concrete slab or screed;
however, it is impossible to collect water along the joists with a classic wooden floor to drain it.

Advice! Instead of making frames on the internal walls of log houses or brick boxes, it is easier to immediately choose a frame building, which will cost much less. Instead of monolithic slab grillages, concrete screeds or tiles on asbestos-cement sheets, it is better to choose floors on joists with water drainage using heavy EPDM membranes.

Floor insulation

The main contradictions in the operational regimes of the bathhouse in relation to the floor are:

to make a drain, it is preferable to use plank floors with slots;
hot air rises upward, so the lower level of the premises is heated by a small amount of radiant energy released when burning fuel, so concrete structures, tiled, porcelain stoneware coatings will take longer to heat up and cool down faster than wooden plank or composite decking based on wood fibers;
the drain with a classic water seal in the bathhouse dries out, when interior spaces Unpleasant, noxious odors leak from septic tanks.

From the point of view of heating engineering, it is much cheaper to build along the joists and place a waterproofing membrane on top of the lower level, which will drain the wastewater. Instead of a traditional drain, it is better to use a drain with a dry water seal, which is not afraid of long interruptions in operation.

Floor waterproofing

Inside the bathhouses at the time of operation it is created high humidity. It is separated from the wooden load-bearing structures of the walls by a vapor barrier film. In the washing room, water pours onto the floor around the entire perimeter, threatening to reduce the effectiveness of insulation. Only slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are not afraid of moisture; other materials lose their thermal insulation properties when wet.

Therefore, waterproofing the bathhouse floor can be done in several ways:

fuse rolled materials onto a concrete slab or coat the surface with mastics (if a slab is poured over the piles);
lay a durable membrane on top of the insulation and subfloor (for wooden floors).

The drainage device is not difficult in all of these cases. However, in latest version the floor will heat up faster and stay warm longer.

Organization of drainage

Due to the fact that frame, panel or log baths, the grillage is made of rolled metal or timber. There are several ways to make a drain:

pour ;
lay an asbestos-cement sheet over the beams, make a screed on it or veneer it flat slate tiles, providing a slope with different thicknesses of glue;
fix a galvanized sheet with formed slopes to the sewer drain on the grillage (wooden floors);
lay a membrane on top of the subfloor, fixed to the side surfaces of the walls (wooden floors).

Important! In any of these options, insulation is carried out under the waterproofing layer. The walls must be treated with mastic, covered with hydroglass insulation or covered with a membrane at least 10 cm higher horizontal surface floor.

Membrane

A budget solution is to install a drain with an EPDM membrane. The design for the log house looks like this:

logs for the subfloor - secured with special metal holders;
subfloor - edged boards 25 - 30 cm, laid close to each other;
insulation – extruded polystyrene foam, 8 – 10 cm thick;
ladder - you need to make a hole in the insulation and subfloor boards into which a drain with a dry water seal is inserted;
EPDM membrane - laid around the perimeter, placed on the side walls, taking into account the height of the finished floor;
finished floor logs - secured with profile holders;
finishing coating - experts recommend not rigidly fixing the edged board laid with 1 cm slots, but attaching it to furniture 1 cm dowels.

This will allow, if necessary, to dismantle the floor boards in any area in order to sweep out large debris and clean the sewer drain.

A slope for gravity flow of water must be made in the membrane when installing it. To do this, first press Bottom part membranes (a mesh is screwed to the drain), then the waterproofing material is slightly raised up on each wall and fixed in tension.

Important! Along the perimeter, the EPDM membrane is attached to the crowns of the log house with special aluminum slats, which are sold in the same departments as waterproofing materials.

In a frame bathhouse, a vapor barrier is installed under the lining of the internal walls, so the diagram will change slightly:

at the initial stage you need to make a subfloor and insulation similar to the previous option;
the EPDM membrane is applied to the walls and attached to the wall frame studs with a stapler with a slight tension to create a gravity drain;
a vapor barrier material is hung on the wall frames, the lower edge of which is placed on top of the membrane; when moisture accumulates on the vapor barrier layer, it will flow onto the membrane without destroying wooden structures power frame.

Galvanized sheet

The technology is similar to the previous version, except that instead of a membrane, a galvanized sheet of metal is used.

Sheet material

A slope made of tiles or porcelain stoneware will be a little more expensive. sheet material, which every individual developer can do. The technology looks like this:

subfloor - made of edged boards along joists;
insulation – extruded XPS polystyrene foam;
dry screed - DSP sheet or asbestos cement;
waterproofing – EPDM membrane, coating with polymer mastic;
drainage - only drains with dry water seals;
cladding - porcelain stoneware or tiles, laid with a slope towards the drain

Screed

To save the finishing budget, a screed without cladding can be used. In this case, wooden ladders are needed, which are laid during bath procedures and removed for drying after they are completed. The technology is completely similar to the previous case:

laying DSP or flat slate;
insulation layer 8 – 10 cm;
making 5 cm screeds with slopes towards the drain;
2-3 layer insulation with hydroglass insulation, mastics, penetrating mixtures.

Sewage drains are embedded in concrete; it is preferable to use dry water seals. Instead of cladding, wooden panels are laid on the screed, which are much more comfortable to walk on than on tiles.

Plate

Unlike all previous technologies, the slab is poured at the grillage construction stage. To save budget, the slab part is concreted only under the washing room, using under the rest load-bearing walls monolithic beams. Drain slopes are created directly in the slab, the hole for the sewerage is made by installing a pipe of a suitable diameter into the formwork.

One thing I can say for sure - under no circumstances do this) Mushrooms will grow there...
There are a lot of comments)
1. What are power beams? Did you mean grillage?
2. The bathhouse was built according to frame technology or is it a frame made of profiled timber?
3. What does the ceiling of the first floor look like on this moment? Or is it missing as such now?
4. The use of asbestos is categorically undesirable; European builders do not use it indoors - it is prohibited, because it is a carcinogen. And with a thickness of 8 + 8 + self-leveling floor, there is a high probability that it will all crack.
5. Using roll waterproofing, in my opinion, is too clumsy. It may be possible, of course, but there are special waterproofing mastics and tapes for showers, and I think it’s better to use them.
As for the technology of laying tiles, I myself am still thinking about this issue, but I am inclined to modern technologies foreign comrades.
Here are some videos that show everything:
1. In this, polymer waterproofing mastic and Supersealing waterproofing film are used. The shower was made using the sideless method with a long ladder, very modern, and you won’t trip. The only thing I didn’t understand was how they made the slope in the shower.

2. Several are discussed here different options- but everywhere they suggest using a special platform with an already formed slope. Also without a side.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQoCI88b9Vo
Since we most likely cannot find such plates, we will either have to make a side and form a slope inside it using a cement screed, or raise the entire floor in the shower by a few cm, using some kind of dry screed such as Knauf / drywall / plasterboard / gypsum board / aquapanel, and in the place where there will be a shower - make a reinforced slope cement screed. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to make it thick. It seems easier with a side.
After forming the floor surface and the slope into the drain, everything is treated with a primer, after which all corners and joints are glued with reinforcing waterproofing tape, and the entire surface is treated with polymer waterproofing mastic, in 2 layers. Then, you can sculpt tiles onto all this. If some kind of cement base / gypsum board, etc. is used, then regular glue can be used; if the base is plywood or OSB, then polymer glue should be used. Polymer is much more expensive, but you can save on buying cement sheets.
I admit, I have never laid tiles myself, but I diligently searched for information for my bathhouse, and eventually came to the above technology. All sorts of things better than that collective farm, which is described by our Kulibins.