Recently, manufacturers of heated floors are increasingly claiming that their systems are suitable for installation under any type of floor covering, including laminate, parquet boards and solid wood. Is this really true?
Indeed, it is possible to lay a water-heated floor under a laminate with your own hands and operate it safely, but to do this you will need to strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions and follow the recommendations given by him.
Is it possible to put water floors under laminate and parquet?
There are justified concerns regarding the use of laminate, solid wood and parquet boards as flooring for heated floors. This is due to two features of this material:
It turns out that laying laminate flooring on a water-heated floor (like any other glued floor covering) is possible, but for this you will need to choose suitable material and follow special recommendations regarding installation and operation.
The operating instructions separately indicate what kind of heating the material is intended for. It is strictly forbidden to use laminate flooring designed for electric heating with water heated floors.
How effective are water-based floors under laminate?
Initially, I would like to note that laying laminate flooring on heated floors is not ideal solution. As already noted above, wrong choice flooring can affect not only its service life, but also affect the health of the owners of an apartment or private house. But if you still choose laminate, you will need to follow certain instructions. Otherwise, the “warm water floor” heating system installed under the laminate flooring heats the room quite effectively. The material itself heats up quickly and retains heat well. The thickness of the coating cake remains minimal compared to tiles.
Another advantage is the possibility of installing parquet boards or solid wood. The maximum heating temperature of the coolant to 27-28 °C is quite enough to maintain a normal, comfortable environment in the room.
Limitations in the power of water heated floors associated with the characteristics of the flooring make the operation of the heating system as the main source of heating limited.
How to lay a heated floor, installation instructions
The choice of laminate for heated floors is extremely important and affects the service life of the coating. You will also need to strictly follow the installation procedure established by the manufacturer:
Laying laminate flooring should be left exclusively to professionals. Despite the apparent simplicity installation work, there are some nuances that novice installers often do not take into account. As a result, over time, the floor structure shrinks, creaks appear, joints diverge, etc.
The installation of a warm water floor with laminate does not “forgive” any mistakes associated with the installation of the coating.
How to fill a warm water floor system (what kind of screed)
The technology for laying parquet boards and laminates involves preparing a perfectly flat base for installing the covering. Methods for leveling the floor that are used in ordinary cases are not suitable for heated floors. One of the reasons for squeaking is precisely a poorly leveled floor before installation.When choosing a composition for pouring floors, you should also consider some features:
- ordinary cement mortar under the influence of temperature changes it begins to crumble, crack, and loses its integrity and strength. Therefore, the technology for manufacturing the screed composition involves the use of special plasticizers. At the same time, professionals advise not to skimp on additives. Required quantity plasticizer, clearly indicated on the container.All three of the above aspects explain why largest producers It is recommended to use already ready-made mixtures. Make your own solution that fully complies technical specifications a ready-made composition is impossible.
How to choose a laminate for a water floor
Which laminate to choose for a warm water floor? If you firmly decide to use this particular coating, then you should pay attention to the following characteristics:
Natural wood parquet species suitable for water-heated floors are glued directly to the base of the concrete floor. The use of a backing is not provided.
Mistakes made during installation
Errors during installation are made not only by beginners, but also by professionals. Miscalculations are mainly related to the following aspects:- Choice of material – cork laminate and more flooring with a thickness of over 10 cm, it is absolutely not suitable for heated floors. Lack of heat transfer leads to the need to increase the heating temperature of the coolant and, as a result, heat the laminate over 30°C, and this leads to the appearance of toxic fumes.
There are many samples of parquet boards and laminates that are recommended for use specifically for water-heated floors. - Use with laminate carpeting is another common problem. After laying the laminate, a rug is laid on top of it, furniture is installed, etc. There should be no additional covering where heated floors pass, as this leads to overheating.
- Violation of laying technology– the smoother the prepared surface, the greater the likelihood that after a year of operation the parquet or laminate will not make squeaks and other noises when walking.
Warm floors are quickly gaining popularity, because it is very nice when your feet are warm. Not all floor coverings conduct heat equally well, but special types have begun to be developed that are compatible with heating. For example, it is possible to lay a heated floor under a laminate. True, the usual one won’t do. Need a special one. But everything can be done quickly and at relatively low cost.
Let's say right away that it is possible to heat a laminate floor, but there are limitations. First, this method is not the main type of heating, but only serves to increase comfort or can be an “assistant” for the main heating.
These pictograms indicate the compatibility of the laminate with heating.
The second limitation is that you need a special laminate that can withstand prolonged temperature increases. This laminate is marked with one of the icons depicting a heating element. The most common pictograms are shown in the photo below. Laying heated floors under laminate is only possible if your flooring has one of these symbols or something similar. It costs more due to the fact that heat-resistant materials and dyes are used. So the increased price is not just that.
Options for heated floors under laminate
Are there any restrictions on the choice of heating element type? In general, no. You can use water heating or an electric heating cable, mats made from it, placing the heating elements in the screed. But screeding is a labor-intensive task, requiring significant investment and a lot of time. In addition, the efficiency of such heating is low, since the screed heats up, and the laminate heats up from it.
Installing a laminate on a heated film floor is simple - you just need to secure the heating element (with tape), connect it electrically, and remove the wires. And we lay the covering on top There are faster installation options. They are also more economical, since the laminate is heated directly, and not the screed underneath it. The most convenient in this regard is film infrared heated floors. It can be spread on a flat base (any kind), and the laminate can be placed on top immediately. You can install this type of heated laminate floor with your own hands in one room in half a day. If you have no experience at all - in a day. The electrical part and installation of thermal sensors usually take the most time. Otherwise, laying film heated floors is very simple.
You can make a warm floor under the laminate and from a heating cable. But it must be placed in special plates The second option for quickly installing a heated floor under a laminate is a heating cable. But here a special system will be needed. The cable is laid in metal heat-dissipating grooves, which are placed in a heat-insulating substrate. Laminate is placed on top. In general, the system turns out to be more expensive due to the cost of the plates.
Installation of infrared heated floors under laminate
Infrared warm (IR) floor is also called film floor. And all because carbon (a type of graphite) paste, which in this case is the heating element, is rolled into polymer film. Most often, the paste is distributed in the form of strips, which are connected in parallel by copper bars. Passes through the tires electric current, which flows onto the carbon fiber strips. And this material begins to heat up when an electric current passes. Carbon emits heat in the infrared range, which is why such a heating element is also called infrared (sometimes referred to as IR).
Infrared film can be 30 cm, 50 cm, 80 cm and 100 cm wide. Its thickness is less than a millimeter Carbon fiber and tires are rolled into a durable polymer film that guarantees electrical and fire safety. You just need to be careful when electrical connection parts of the film - it is good to insulate the joints.
System composition
Electric film floor heating for laminate flooring is not just film. These also include contact plates, wires, a thermostat and floor temperature sensors. Only in this case will heating be effective and economical.
A warm strip floor under laminate also includes a thermostat, temperature sensors and wires How does the system work? On the thermostat you set the required temperature to which you want to heat the coating. When turned on, the elements are in operation until the specified threshold is reached. The thermostat then (based on the temperature sensor readings) turns off the electricity supply. When the temperature drops below the set level, the heating turns on again. That is, it does not work constantly and around the clock. And how economical the system will be depends on how well the floor is insulated. The less heat loss, the lower the costs.
Is it possible to do without a thermostat? Theoretically it is possible. The film is directly connected to electricity, for example, using a wire with a regular electrical plug. When you need to turn off the heating, remove the plug from the socket. What is the disadvantage of this type of connection? In addition to the fact that you will have to constantly “feel” the floor and pull the socket, it is impossible to precisely control the heating of the film. That is, the floor will either be too cold or too hot. This will lead to increased energy consumption. And overheating of the film leads to rapid failure. So it’s more profitable and economical to install sensors and a thermostat. Even if it’s mechanical, the simplest one.
Types of IR film
As already mentioned, infrared film can be of different widths - from 30 cm wide to 100 cm. In addition, elements of the same width can be of different capacities. If the floor is poorly insulated and becomes noticeably cold, it is better to take more powerful heaters. Also more high power useful if the main heating system does not cope well with maintaining the temperature on cold days. Then you can guarantee that the floor will be warm regardless of the outside temperature. But it is more rational to insulate the floor well. It will take more time, of course, but it will “work” for many years and will reduce heating costs.
The film should be placed only where there is no furniture or carpets Not long ago, self-regulating infrared film appeared. The fact is that a regular infrared heater is not placed under furniture or carpets. In this case, it is not recommended to move furniture and carpets. The film always heats up evenly and if it cannot transfer heat effectively, it may overheat. Long-term overheating leads to burnout of contacts or paste. That is, part of the film stops working.
The self-regulating element stops heating when the threshold value is reached. The area where the temperature is exceeded is switched off. After cooling, heating resumes. That is, such a film lasts longer (overheating, even local, is excluded), and less electricity consumption. After all, the sofa, closet, carpet, etc. do not heat up.
How much film do you need and what width?
To lay a heated floor under a laminate, you need to calculate the number and size of the heating element. First, you should draw a plan of the room, outline large furniture on it, if any, carpets too. Infrared film is placed on the free space.
Infrared film can be used in different widths
It is not necessary to use fragments of the same width. It is important that they do not overlap each other, but also that there is not a large distance between the stripes. Otherwise, there will be noticeable warmer and colder zones under your feet.
Along these lines you can cut the film heated floor According to the plan, calculate the footage of the film of each width. You can cut it along special lines, which are indicated by a dotted line and the image of scissors. These lines are located every 25 cm. We calculate the footage based on this feature.
Electrical connection
Since infrared film is an electric heating element, you need to take care of the electrics. To do this, a pair of wires are brought into the room - phase and zero. Grounding is also advisable. It is necessary for safety. To install the thermostat, a hole is made near the wall, just like for installing an outlet. This is where the wires from the panel go. During installation, they are connected to the corresponding terminals on the thermostat body, but they do this last. Until then, the wires from the panel are wrapped with electrical tape and simply stick out from the socket.
How to connect a film floor to electricity - diagram Each piece of film requires two contact clips. They are connected to the busbars on one side, and wires are soldered to them. The opposite side of the bus is insulated. To do this, you can use bitumen insulation (more reliable), but you can also get by with regular electrical tape. Contact clamps are installed on busbars (copper, orange or reddish in color). These tires are sealed in film. To install the clamp, the film must be lifted and the plates pressed against the copper using pliers.
Laying heated floors under laminate: how to connect wires to the busbars of infrared film Wires from contact terminals pull along the floor to the location where the thermostat is installed. Here they are gathered into a bundle, climb up the wall and are wound into the socket. To make everything look decent, it is best to make a groove and place a corrugated hose or thick-walled plastic pipe in it. Pass the wires into the pipe/corrugated hose. This will allow you to quickly and without much hassle replace the wires if necessary.
Installing a Temperature Sensor
The temperature sensor is one of the key elements of the system. The correct operation of the entire system depends on how correctly it displays the temperature. Therefore, the choice of location for installing the sensor is very important. It is placed in an open space in the middle of the film, at least a meter away from the wall.
To control the heating temperature, a sensor is installed The sensor itself has a very small sizes. Two wires stretch from it, which should also go to the thermostat. These small sensors are the most vulnerable part of the system. They often fail. But they cost very little, so the costs are small. And so that you can replace them without problems, it is better to also install them in a corrugated hose. This may be inconvenient, as you will have to make a recess. But the replacement will be simple.
Sequence of work
Now that the main parts of the process are clear, let's decide what to do and how best to do it. Let's say right away that the floor must be level. Before laying the laminate, it still needs to be leveled. A thin layer of thermal insulation is spread on the leveled base. There are enough options. Let's describe the main ones:
As you can see, there is not much choice. Either cork (but not rolled, but sheet), or polyethylene with lavsan. Thickness - 3 mm or more. It is laid over the entire floor area. The joints are taped with tape. In the case of a cork - regular tape When laying a coating with lavsan, use adhesive tape intended for this material.
Next comes the laying of the heated floor under the laminate. We spread infrared film on the substrate and fix it along the edge. You can use double-sided tape or use staples from a construction stapler. But we place the staples at the edge of the film - under no circumstances in the tire or in the carbon strips.
Laying heated floors under laminate: make sure that the tires do not touch Adjacent strips must be laid closely together. Only the clean edges of the film can overlap. Overlapping and contact of tires is unacceptable. As well as carbon fiber strips.
After the strips are laid, contact plates with wires are connected to them. Then the sensor is installed. If it protrudes above the floor plane, a hole is cut in the substrate. We can't let it stick out. Next, all the wires are inserted into the socket box. There they are connected to the terminals on the thermostat. All terminals are signed, so there shouldn't be any problems.
Connect to thermostat Some difficulties may arise with connecting the film if there are more than three of them. It is already difficult to connect three wires to one terminal, and if there are four or more of them... Then the solution is to install a terminal at the ends suitable shape. They cost pennies. The ends of the wire are stripped of insulation, they are all twisted and placed into the “leg” of the contact, and clamped with pliers. Making one contact is much easier.
After we have connected all sections of the film and sensor, with the machine switched off on the panel, we connect the linear wires to the corresponding terminals. We turn on the automatic and turn on the heating. We wait 15-20 minutes and check the temperature of the film. If everything heats up and has the same temperature, turn everything off (you can only use the machine, but it is advisable to remove the linear wires).
Well, and last stage- laying laminate. There are no special features here. In addition to making sure that the film does not move, the wires remain in place. Have you finished laying your laminate flooring? Turn it on again and check whether it heats up or not. If everything is in order, that's it, you can use it.
Question: Good afternoon. I want it as a topcoat on a warm water floor (special for heated floors). Please clarify, can a heated floor heat a room in this case instead of radiators (like a ceramic tile floor)? If it can, what will be the heat loss? Is it true that in this case, when heated, toxic substances are released from the laminate and that the laminate will quickly become unusable - it will dry out?
Thanks in advance for your answer.
Best regards, Evgeniy (Anapa).
Answer:
Hello! First of all, it should maintain the temperature in the room, and not be warm for the feet. The coating temperature should not exceed 28°C (both below and on the surface). Since our body temperature is 36.6°C (that is, slightly higher), we will perceive the floor as a slightly cool surface.
Look for special markings on the box for using underfloor heating
When purchasing laminate flooring, it is better to give preference to European manufacturers. May you spend a little more money, but you won’t worry that after some time the coating will dry out or come in waves.
Optimal air humidity for laminate flooring
Laminate flooring is afraid not so much of rising temperatures as of low air humidity. The seams may come apart as it shrinks due to low humidity. The optimal air humidity according to the technology (both during installation and during operation of the laminate) should be in the range of 30-60%. If it is less, drying out is possible, and more - swelling.
If you look at GOST 30494-96 “Residential and public buildings. Indoor microclimate parameters”, humidity should be at least 30-45%; the best option the range is considered to be 40-60%. Therefore, it is important to leave 1.5-2 cm gaps around the perimeter of the walls so that the laminate does not swell when humidity changes. Please note that most skirting boards do not cover gaps larger than 2 cm.
Is laminate flooring harmful?
Regarding the allocation harmful substances, then indeed, phenol-formaldehydes are used in the laminate to form the HDF base, which can release free radicals when heated excessively. In addition, to give strength, the laminate is treated with melamine impregnation, which, when heated, can release harmful impurities into the air.
Formaldehyde begins to be released at temperatures above 32°C, so if the optimal temperature in the apartment is not exceeded, then nothing bad will happen. Such a laminate will not be more harmful than furniture made from chipboard.
There are also some laminates with very low formaldehyde content, such as ELESGO.
Underfloor heating
A warm laminate floor is not suitable as the main heating. Laminate and substrate are poor heat conductors, and to maintain the temperature in the room you will have to heat the surface very much. As a result, you will get, firstly, a strong waste of energy and, secondly, the release of harmful substances. Thus, this type heated floors are used only as an additional source of room heating.
Substrate
The underlay can be no more than 3 mm thick, so the floor must be very flat. For heated floors there is a special underlay, for example, Arbiton IZO-FLOOR THERMO. It has increased rigidity - so the laminate will not “play on locks” - while the thickness is only 1.6 mm, and the thermal resistance is 0.06 sq.m. * K/W.
You can also use the standard Quick-Step Uniclic 2 in 1 (3 mm), its thermal resistance is 0.049 sq.m.*K/W. 
If you decide to use a different substrate, look not only at its thermal resistance, but also at its thickness. To understand which one is better, you need to divide the thickness by the thermal resistance. The lower this value, the better it will transfer heat.
According to the European standard EN 4725, the maximum value thermal resistance substrate and laminate in total should not exceed 0.15 sq.m.*K/W. In the table you can see these values for Quick-Step floors (including underlay). 
Laying technology
To ensure uniform heating, the distance between the pipes should not exceed 30 cm. The installation depth is chosen by the installer himself.
Before laying the floor covering, it is necessary to dry the floor to its entire depth. The maximum permissible humidity for a cement floor is 1.5%, and for an antihydrite-based screed - 0.3%. This is especially important to determine if the floor is installed in a new building.
Heating is turned on two weeks before laying the floor or three weeks after pouring the screed (maximum 5°C per day).
- Bring heating power to half in two weeks.
- Over the last 2 days, increase the heating power to 100%.
If the floor screed is new, you should seek advice from the installer, otherwise drying the solution too quickly may cause cracks to appear.
You can learn how to make laminate flooring from the video:
Operation of heated floors
For correct operation For heated laminate floors, follow our recommendations.
- Turn off the heating completely and wait until the floor cools down to 18°C.
- After installation is complete, gradually turn on the heating by 5°C per day.
- The maximum contact temperature should not be higher than 28°C. Temperature hot water- no higher than 50°C.
- When heating ends or starts, it is important to change temperature regime gradually. This is done using a tap on the bypass.
- As with any wooden flooring, you need to maintain air humidity and try not to drop it below 50%. Use humidifiers if necessary.
- Avoid heat build-up (this occurs from carpets and under furniture with small feet).
Laminate flooring with heated floors is installed as an additional source of heating or is completely replaced with tiles/porcelain tiles. Moreover, now you can choose tiles even to match wood.
Classmates
The constantly growing interest in underfloor heating systems is justified.
Frame house with high level comfort is the dream of any owner.
After all, when all the inhabitants of the house are in constant contact with warm surfaces, this is the most preferable option.
A Closer Look design features system highlights an important circumstance: for the most productive functioning of the heated floor crucial has a floor covering material, since it is the contact surface and at the same time a heat emitter.
Traditional requirements for floor coverings are such that, in conjunction with a heater, the material begins to interfere with the free spread of heat into the interior of the home, so some additional measures for maximum elimination of coating resistance.
The underfloor heating system is a multi-layer cake, in the lower part of which there is a subfloor, in the middle there is a heater, and the upper part is the floor covering. This is a very simplified diagram of the pie, but in general everything works that way.
Laminate, as one of the most common types of coating, is a very attractive material, both from an operational point of view and from an aesthetic point of view. At the same time, it has a fairly high thermal resistance, which prevents the transfer of thermal energy to the surface.
This situation threatens with unproductive heating costs - a forced cut-off forces the operating mode of the heated floor system to be increased, which means an increase operating temperature and as a result of heating costs. This must be taken into account when designing a home heating scheme and immediately planning the operation of the system in enhanced mode. Nevertheless, the solution to the question of whether it is possible to lay laminate flooring has a clear positive answer.
Types of heated floors
From a technical point of view, underfloor heating systems can be implemented in two ways:
The first is a system of pipes with hot coolant (water), located in a zigzag pattern inside the floor layers. The second type does not require a coolant, since it is itself a heater.
Attention! Recently, systems have appeared that combine both types in one design. They consist of pipes filled with water, which is heated by an electric cable located there.
Let's take a closer look at both systems.
Water
Water heated floors have two main versions:
- filling in concrete screed. Used on strong concrete floors that are able to withstand the additional weight of the concrete layer. In this case, a tight contact between the pipes and the screed occurs, ensuring maximum heat transfer with virtually no losses;
- “Dry” method, without pouring screed. Used on wooden subfloors, often used in frame housing construction. The floor cake is much lighter, but heat transfer from the heater becomes more difficult due to the low contact density.
In this case, it requires reliable fixation to prevent movement under pressure.
Pipe laying options:
- rack and pinion wooden system. The pipes are located in grooves between slats (strips) made of wood, chipboard and similar materials. The process is quite labor-intensive, since each strip must be prepared and fixed on the floor;
- modular system. Ready-made modules are used for laying pipes;
- polystyrene system. The pipes are located in the grooves of a polystyrene board, which simultaneously serves as a matrix for installation and insulation, cutting off contact with the subfloor.
Electric
Types of electrical systems:
- convection heated floor, using the property of heated air to rise. Colder ones take their place, causing air circulation in the room;
- Cable heated floors can be implemented both in the form of a separate one, laid in a “snake”, and in the form of ready-made ones, which are much more convenient to install - you just need to spread them in in the right place;
- presented in two types of designs - and the more modern one. During operation, the floor and nearby objects are heated using infrared radiation.
For use on concrete foundations Only cable type underfloor heating (cable or mats) is suitable. Infrared film emitters can only be used with a dry installation method.
The best option
Laminate for heated floors: the price and quality of which are quite comparable - a fairly hard and durable coating, but laying it requires a flat base.
With the dry method of installing a heated floor, the coating is laid on a layer of substrate - durable sheet materials(chipboard, plywood, etc.).
The result is a dense layer with significant resistance to heat transfer, which makes it necessary to increase the temperature of the heater.
When laying laminate flooring on a warm concrete screed, losses are significantly reduced, making the system economical and efficient. The only problem that remains is the condition of the pipelines - if they fail, you will have to either make labor-intensive repairs or refuse to use the system.
How to choose
The criterion for choosing a design is the wallet of the home owner.
More profitable water floors require larger one-time investments in purchase and installation, but are cheaper in subsequent operation.
Electrical systems Cheaper to purchase, but constantly consume electricity. At the same time, water systems absolutely do not allow the owners to leave for a long time and leave the house unattended, since the coolant will have to be drained so that it does not freeze and burst the pipes. Electrical systems can be unplugged without any problems. This circumstance is a very important factor influencing the choice of design, and should be taken into account first.
Owner reviews
Warm floors under laminate: which is better, price per m2 and reviews are of interest to many consumers.
On thematic forums dedicated to frame construction, a lot of information about using heated floors under laminate.
Let's look at excerpts from some reviews covering both types of construction.
Water systems:
- They didn’t want tiles on principle; they installed laminate. Everything is fine and comfortable.
- I use a screed 5 cm thick, it acts as a heat accumulator and heats the laminate gently but noticeably.
- Warm laminate flooring is very nice, we only walk around the house barefoot. The temperature is sufficient, even in cold weather it copes well.
Electrical systems:
- We installed cable mats under the screed, then covered them with laminate. Everything works great, but the electricity bills are huge.
- I chose laminate because I didn't want to fuss too much. I put infrared film, laminate on top, the flight was normal.
- We doubted whether heating with electricity would be too expensive, but we have no choice. We will make a film under the laminate, it will be cheaper and faster. The costs were roughly calculated, expensive, but tolerable.
Judging by the reviews, water heated floors under screed are the most profitable and effective, but it is not always possible to connect to communications, which forces you to either make a boiler (for example, or), or use electrical systems.
Types of laminate
Laminate has many varieties.
First of all, you should consider the surface types:
- Regular. Standard matte surface with a slight sheen and small strokes.
- Natural. Complete imitation of wood texture, annual rings, knots, etc.
- Texture. A surface with a strong wood texture.
- Embossed. Imitation of the structure of wood or ceramic tiles.
- Country. Using the effect of rough hand-crafted wood.
- Aged. Giving the surface the look of wood that has been outdoors for a long time.
- Waxed. The surface is smoother, the pores are filled with wax, and there is a soft sheen.
- Wood under oil. Matte surface with absolutely no glare.
- Silky-glossy, glossy. Imitation varnish coatings with varying degrees of gloss.
According to panel shape:
- Rectangular. Length 1.2-2 m, width 19-20 cm.
- Tile. Basically a square of 19x19 or 38x38 cm.
By lock type:
- Lock. Milled tongue-and-groove connection.
- Click. A lock equipped with a locking collar in the form of a latch.
- Megalock. The complex shape of the joint allows the panels to be securely fixed.
- T-Lock. Improved Click system.
- Aluminum locks. Fastening connecting two longitudinal grooves on back side panels.
According to permissible load.
There is a conventional system for dividing laminate flooring according to the degree of permissible load.
Today there are designations:
- 31st grade. Home use - bedroom, living room;
- 32nd grade. Office, reception;
- 33rd grade. Hallway, cafe;
- 34th grade. Hall of a large company, airport.
Attention! There is no unified classification system; all designations are constantly changing, so you should clarify the characteristics of the material when purchasing.
Peculiarities
Is it possible and what type of warm floor to choose for a laminate is a very serious question.
For this purpose, special types of material should be used, adapted to work with elevated temperatures and having high density.
This reduces losses and increases the thermal conductivity of the laminate. Material suitable for heated floors has special markings and accompanying inscriptions.
Substrate
High-quality installation of laminate flooring requires a level surface.
When installing a heated floor system using a dry method, a flat base made of chipboard, plywood or similar materials is required that can level and maintain the surface for the coating.
The stronger the foundation, the more opportunity noises, squeaks or rumbles from movement on the surface. To soften loads and sound insulation, a substrate is used - a layer that distributes loads and reduces contact noise. In addition, the underlay under the laminate for heated floors serves as a moisture insulator.
Species
Types of underlay for laminate flooring:
- Polyethylene foam (isolon). The most common material. High moisture and heat insulating properties, low price. Over time, it sags and accumulates a static charge. Short-lived.
- Expanded polystyrene. A special type of EPS, trade name - iso-noise. Effective sound insulator, high thermal resistance. However, it is not very durable, under the influence high temperatures releases harmful volatile substances.
- Cork. Natural material has good elasticity that does not disappear over time. Does not rot, which is important for natural materials. Has high price, allows moisture to pass through.
- Bitumen-cork. It consists of kraft paper, which is covered with a layer of bitumen and sprinkled with crushed cork. Does not allow the creation of condensation, has a high cost.
- Combined. Consist of two or more types material. A known material is made from thin layers of polyethylene, between which there are small granules of polystyrene foam.
- Coniferous tiles. Trade name: isoplat. The material is new, its properties have not yet been fully studied and tested. It has a fibrous structure and a fairly high thickness for a substrate - about 5 mm. High price.
- Foil backing. A good heat insulator, the foil layer reflects infrared rays, saving them from useless dispersion. High moisture resistance, impossibility of mold or mildew.
Choice
The substrate is an additional heat insulator. Therefore, the maximum heat conductivity depends on which substrate to choose for the laminate. The problem is, most types of substrate are good thermal insulators, which is useful in normal conditions, but is completely unsuitable for a heated floor system.
Created with this in mind special type Arbiton IZO-FLOOR THERMO substrates, which has a system of small holes that transmit heat. In any case, it is necessary to choose the thinnest types of substrate. Experts do not recommend using polystyrene foam or cork; they are too good insulators. As a last resort, you can use polyethylene or corrugated cardboard if there is no moisture in the room.
Price
The prices for all materials are very different from each other, so it only makes sense to determine the minimum cost.
A heated floor system will cost:
- from 1,000 rub. per sq. m for film infrared emitters;
- from 2,000 rub. per sq. m for cable mats.
Water floors are at least 2-4 times more expensive.
Laminate prices depend on the strength class and the manufacturer. There are samples with prices starting from 160 rubles/sq. m., but this figure is quite arbitrary, since the selection criterion is not only the price, but also the characteristics of the material.
Useful video
Check out the features of heated floors under laminate in the video below:
Conclusions
The use of laminate over heated floors results in a durable and aesthetic floor covering, characterized by high performance and durability. However, you should choose thick and thin types of material that are suitable for high-temperature applications.
Today we have confidently won construction market. The explanation for this phenomenon is very simple - these coatings have the most optimal ratio performance characteristics to cost. Every year, manufacturers use new advances in innovative technologies, which makes it possible to improve the physical parameters of materials without increasing prices. The sale includes laminate with properties that consumers could not previously dream of. This also applies to special types of coating for heated floors.
During the construction of buildings for various purposes, several types of heated floors are used. Everyone has their own technical features, which have a direct impact on the choice of laminate and its installation technology.
Most consumers often confuse the concepts of insulated floors, heated floors and heated floors. It is necessary to clarify these issues, you should always use precise definitions, this will eliminate annoying mistakes in the future.
Conclusion - warm floors and heated floors are the same design, the main difference being that the floors have their own autonomous heat source.
Prices for heated floors REHAU
Warm floors REHAU
Which type of underfloor heating is best suited for laminate?
Today, there are three technologies for arranging heated floors. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses, each has differences in technological process. These features influence not only the efficiency of room heating, but also the requirements for the optimal finishing floor covering.
Table. Technologies for arranging heated floors.
| Heating system type | Technical characteristics and technological features |
|---|---|
| The system is installed on the basis of the floor plastic pipes for heating the room. Subsequently, it is closed with a screed of at least five centimeters thick. The laminate will be laid using the technology recommended by the manufacturer - a special substrate to eliminate unevenness, laminate lamellas. This is the most not good option heated floors have three significant drawbacks. The first is low efficiency. A thick sand-cement screed and foam padding under the laminate increase the loss of thermal energy. Second - high estimated cost. This refers to the total cost of materials and the amount of time lost. The third is big problems in case of emergency situations. Water leaks are discovered too late, during which time many architectural structures become unusable. In addition, repairs require complete dismantling not only laminate, but also screeds. It's long and expensive. Currently, water-heated floors are used very rarely. In addition to the above problems with finishing coatings, they also have their own purely technical disadvantages: it is necessary to install a special boiler, a complex system for distributing and regulating thermal energy, etc. |
| A more modern and higher quality system is confidently in the lead in terms of the number of uses due to its relatively low cost. The system consists of special electrical cables, the amount of heat (Q) depends on the square of the current (I2), the resistance parameters of the conductor (R) and time (T). Q=I2×R×T. Electric heating is much more efficient than water heating and has several advantages over it. First - emergency situations do not have such negative consequences. Threefold - the systems are much simpler from an engineering point of view, control and monitoring equipment can be installed in any convenient place. Third, the reduced thickness of the cement-sand screed increases operational efficiency and reduces material costs for maintaining comfortable conditions V winter period time. |
| The most modern system warm floor. The coolants are electric, but not ordinary cables. These are special carbon threads sealed on both sides with plastic plates. The total thickness does not exceed one millimeter and is sold in separate rolls that can be cut to the required sizes. Such systems have many advantages: high efficiency, ease of installation, reliability and safety of operation. Under infrared systems cement-sand screed is not done, which makes it possible to save time and money. The only drawback is the high cost; infrared floors are not available to all developers. |
Conclusion. From a technical point of view, infrared is considered the optimal floor heating system for laminate flooring. It does not require additional cement-sand screeds, is safe and effective to use. Laminate panels are installed directly on heating elements, which significantly improves heat transfer rates, saves energy, and reduces the time it takes to heat a room to favorable temperatures.
As can be seen from the table, there are no fundamental restrictions on the use of laminate as a finishing coating for heated floors. But this does not mean that you can buy any coverings and install them on heated floors without fear.
What criteria should you use to choose the type of laminate?
With selection criteria optimal system We have already decided on heating for laminate floors, now we should find out in detail what parameters should be used to select a laminate.
Thermal conductivity
The main attention is paid to the coefficient of thermal resistance. If for ordinary floors the higher the resistance coefficient, the better, then for warm floors the opposite is true. In the first case, the task of the floors is to prevent loss of thermal energy; the floors are made of materials with low thermal conductivity values: natural wood, carpet, insulated linoleum, etc.
Warm floors should quickly heat rooms and easily transfer energy from the coolant to the room. Laminate occupies an average position in these indicators. He doesn't count the best material for ordinary floors, to reduce losses it is necessary to use additional insulation. And for heated floors there are materials that conduct heat much more efficiently ( ceramic tiles, artificial granite, natural stone, poured floors). Such average physical characteristics allow us to consider laminate a universal material for all types of floor coverings.
European standards require that the thermal conductivity coefficient of the finishing coatings of underfloor heating does not exceed 0.15 m 2 × K/W. According to these indicators, the materials fully meet rigid international standards, thermal conductivity of the laminate is within 0.1 m 2 × K/W.
If the laminate is mounted on a cement-sand screed, then the choice of materials should be approached more carefully. The thermal conductivity of the substrate in most cases is 0.049 m 2 × K/W. Now you should calculate the maximum values of thermal conductivity of the laminate: 0.15-0.049 = 0.101. Depending on the parameters of the substrate, the thickness and density of the lamellas should be selected, and vice versa, the indicators of the lamellas influence the substrate.
Important. The discrepancy between thermal conductivity values and recommended values not only negatively affects efficiency. Consumers are trying to increase the temperature in the premises to a comfortable one; at the same time, the degree of heating of the coolant elements will exceed the recommended values. As a result, the heating system quickly fails. This problem especially affects electrical and infrared types warm floors.
High temperature resistance
Laminate is made from waste from the wood processing industry (wood sawdust), paper and paints and varnishes. Formaldehyde resins are used to connect the base, and these are very harmful compounds that release toxic chemicals into the air. The concentration of substances is strictly regulated by relevant government organizations; violating their requirements is strictly prohibited.
But all measures aimed at reducing the release of harmful compounds significantly increase the cost of production. One more nuance. Control measurements of evaporation of harmful substances are made at a temperature of +22°C, although heated floors are heated to +30°C, and in such conditions the amount of evaporation increases significantly. In order to reduce the cost of goods, companies use a special gradation, which makes it possible to further evaluate the quality of the product and its suitability for installation on heated floors:
- E0– ≤ 2.5 mg of formaldehyde is released per 100 g of dry matter;
- E1– ≤ 10 mg of formaldehyde is released per 100 g of dry matter;
- E2– 10–20 mg of formaldehyde is released per 100 g of dry matter;
- E3– 30–60 mg of formaldehyde is released per 100 g of dry matter.
For heated floors, you need to buy laminate marked E0, or in extreme cases E1. The use of other types is strictly not recommended.
Practical advice. You need to carefully monitor the relative humidity in the room. This is recommended by both doctors and laminate manufacturers. Air humidity should not drop below 50%, otherwise health problems will arise, the service life of floor coverings will decrease, squeaks will appear when walking, and the floor will begin to wobble.
Laminate manufacturer data
Responsible laminate manufacturers indicate the recommended areas of use of the coatings on the factory packaging, including the possibility of installation on heated floors. This parameter has a special icon. In addition to the pictogram, there may be an inscription on English“Underfloor heating”, which translates as “Warm floor”. This means that the physical properties of the laminate allow it to be used as a topcoat on heated floors.
You can come across statements that the manufacturer indicates on the labels not only the possibility of using the product on heated floors, but also the type of system. This is not true, such slats can be mounted on all types of heated floors. No individual species laminate for floors with water, electric or infrared heating.
Lamella connection type
Installation of laminate flooring allows two types of connection of individual lamellas: locking and adhesive.
Important. On warm floors It is prohibited to connect the slats with glue; only locks are allowed. Adhesive joints do not have the ability to compensate for uneven linear expansions that arise due to differences in heating temperatures.
You should be aware that heating systems are not installed in places where heavy stationary furniture or household appliances. The floors in these areas are colder and expand slightly. If the lamellas are connected with glue, then there is a high probability of swelling.
Currently, manufacturers use two types of locks: Click and Lock. The first lock connects the two elements until it snaps into place; a characteristic “click” should be heard. Lock locks are almost no different from an ordinary tongue/groove connection, they only have a slightly changed geometry of the tongue and groove. Both locks are approved for use on heated floors.
Substrate type
The underlay plays an important role in the effectiveness of heated floors, has different physical characteristics, and can be used with all types of systems.
- Water heated floors. A substrate under the laminate must be used, the thickness is at least 2–3 mm. The fact is that cement-sand screeds cannot guarantee the required surface evenness; the substrate must compensate for all differences. Otherwise, the laminate slats will sag, over time the locks will become loose and squeaks will appear while walking. It is impossible to eliminate unpleasant sounds; you will have to completely dismantle the covering and install it again.
- Electrically heated floors. The requirements for using a laminate underlay are identical to floors with water systems.
- Floors with infrared heaters. The substrate is installed under the heaters, and the laminate is laid directly on them. Due to this, the efficiency of the system significantly increases.
Important. A new underlay has begun to be produced specifically for use under laminate on heated floors. Its difference from the old versions is that the base is not made of foam, but of extruded polystyrene. This is a fairly dense material with high thermal conductivity. In addition, the surface has small through holes, which further increases heat transfer rates and increases heating efficiency.
Such substrates correct problems with screeds and conduct heat much better; professional builders advise buying them when installing any heated floors.
Step-by-step instructions for installing laminate flooring on a heated floor
As an example, let’s consider the most successful option for a heated floor - infrared elements are used as heaters.
Step 1. Check the completeness of the delivery of underfloor heating elements: the overall size of the heating system, temperature controllers, switches and substrate. Carefully read the instructions for use from the manufacturers.
Step 2. Carefully remove old laminate. If the work is done correctly, it will be completely reusable. But under one condition - such use is permitted by the manufacturer. We talked about how and where to find out about this in this article above.
Practical advice. Fold the floor slats one by one; they will be installed in reverse order. Do not confuse their positions, otherwise problems will arise during installation.
Step 3. Place a special foil backing on the base for infrared heating elements. Work carefully and do not allow wrinkles to form. The substrate can be cut perfectly with an ordinary mounting knife. If the stripes do not fit across the width of the room or it has irregular shape, then the installation algorithm will have to be changed slightly.
- Place strips of lining around the edges of the room. A joint of varying widths is formed on an uneven area.
- Use the sharp end of a mounting knife to make a slot in the overlap area. The tool must be pressed firmly and cut two strips at once.
- Remove the top and bottom cut excess. You will get the perfect joint.
It will not be even, but the backing will lie in one layer. If you want to make the joint even, then the excess needs to be cut off along the line drawn in advance. But this is a waste of time; for the system, it is only important that there are no junction gaps and no overlaps are observed. To prevent the backing from moving during the installation of heating plates and laminate, glue it with ordinary tape.
Step 4. Proceed with the installation of the heated floor, while taking into account where the heavy furniture will be located; the floor under it should not get warm. Pay attention to the location of the front side of the elements, follow the manufacturers' recommendations.
Pre-spread the heaters, think over the scheme for their final installation and connection. All contact groups should be located in one place near the wall. The less you have to ditch the internal interior partitions- so much the better.
Step 5. Seal the contacts of the cut edges of infrared carpets; the material is sold complete with the system. Insert the clamp into place and squeeze the contacts together. Insulate connections.
Important. Remember that aluminum foil is an excellent conductor of electricity; insulate all contacts very carefully. If you have the slightest doubt about reliability, re-insulate.
To prevent infrared heaters from getting wet, you can cover them with ordinary plastic film. But not all builders do this; these elements have reliable waterproofing even without it.
The heating system is ready, you can begin installing the laminate. The algorithm of work is ordinary, there are no differences from simple floors. Except for one thing - the slats are mounted directly on the infrared systems, no additional lining is used.
Regardless of the type of heating system, there are universal recommendations for installing laminate floors. Their implementation will reduce the risk of unpleasant situations arising due to the fault of builders.
The quality of a heated floor depends on many factors, and they all play an important role. You should not simplify the work and neglect some technological steps or advice. Real repair of a heated floor will cost at least an order of magnitude more than the virtual financial savings at the installation stage.
Prices for Tarkett laminate
Tarquette laminate
Video - Warm floor with your own hands in an hour
Video - Warm floor under laminate