Drainage system made from old tires. Drainage from car tires. Decorative well made of tires with a flower bed. Master Class

The beauty of a country holiday is appreciated even more in the presence of the basic amenities of civilization, which include sewerage. For waste disposal of small country house visited only periodically, good option is a cesspool. It can be constructed from various materials. But in the regime of strict economy, with non-permanent residence and the volume of wastewater is less than 1 m3, a cesspool made of tires is installed.

Advantages and disadvantages of a waste tire pit

Local sewage from car tires is an option that should be used when there is no other option.

After all, it has many disadvantages:

  • The service life does not exceed 15 years. This is due to the fact that the tires were not produced for the purpose of arranging sewage systems and are destroyed under the aggressive influence of wastewater.
  • The tightness of the walls may also be compromised at the joints of the tires.
  • Rubber cannot withstand ground pressure.
  • The structure is difficult to repair. It’s easier to abandon the old structure and install a new one.
  • Cleaning a sewer well made from tires is quite difficult due to the special configuration of the walls.
  • Around anyone cesspool the stench spreads.
  • For use drain hole without a bottom, there is a limitation on the volume of waste, which should be no more than 1 m3 per day.
  • A tire sewer well can be installed at a distance of 20-50 m from a drinking source. The distance depends on the type of soil.
  • This indicator should be maximum for sandy, peat or loess soils, minimum for clay.
  • A tire cesspool cannot be built when the groundwater level is no deeper than 2-2.5 m.

But a drainage pit made from used car tires has significant advantages that determine the popularity of such a structure:

  • ease of arrangement;
  • low price.

In some cases, you can save a lot by getting old tires for free or for a nominal price from auto repair shops. At the same time, you can further reduce the cost of a cesspool through self-installation, which requires the simplest and most affordable tools.

What tools and materials are needed

To arrange a cesspool made of tires is not required special equipment or complex materials.

You will need:

  • shovel;
  • a piece of perforated plastic pipe from 1.5 to 4 m long;
  • fine mesh for winding pipes;
  • crushed stone for filling the bottom of the pillow with a thickness of 20-30 cm;
  • plastic pipe for ventilation;
  • sealant;
  • roulette;
  • bolts and nuts;
  • bucket with rope;
  • garden auger;
  • a ladder with a length corresponding to the depth of the pit;
  • roofing felt;
  • a tool for cutting a tire, such as a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

The main thing is to buy tires. Their number is determined by the volume of the well. Usually 10 pieces are enough. It all depends on the selected tire diameter.

What to look for when choosing tires for a cesspool

Any old tires are suitable for arranging a drainage pit:

  • from a car,
  • truck,
  • tractors
The size depends on how large the well needs to be recreated.

Car tires are suitable for a drainage pit that collects wastewater only from kitchen sink. If the volume Wastewater will be big, it's worth it purchase wheels from MAZ, ZIL, tractor, etc., the diameter of which is about 1 m. Based on user experience, it is better to choose tires from American long-length tires, since these rubber products have a thick wall.

When purchasing, inspect the tire; the integrity of its wall should not be damaged.

Purchasing tires

Based on the experience of many cesspool owners, we can conclude that acquiring old tires is not always easy. In addition to advertisements on specialized Internet sites or from periodicals, you can visit auto repair shops and tire shops. You are more likely to find large old tires suitable for the cesspool at truck service centers.

The price depends on the size of the product and the impudence of the seller and ranges from 50 to 400 rubles. In some cases, tires are given away free of charge.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Having purchased all the materials and prepared necessary tools, you can begin arranging the cesspool.

  • First, a location for installation is selected not only taking into account the location of drinking sources, but also buildings. From the cesspool to the house there must be at least 3 m, but not more than 10 m. If the latter figure is exceeded, then it is necessary to install it on the sewer pipeline manhole.
  • The cesspool must also be removed from the road.
  • Having chosen a place, they begin excavation work. Pit for the future sewer well of tires, the diameter should be slightly larger than the tire size. The depth is almost the same as the height of the future rubber mine, since there will be a backfill of crushed stone at the bottom, and the top tire should rise above the surface of the earth.
  • At the excavation stage, they dig a trench for the supply pipeline, taking into account that it must pass with a slope of 2 cm for each linear meter.
  • The bottom of the pit is leveled and a shaft is drilled into it with a garden drill, passing through the aquifers.
  • A perforated pipe is inserted into the resulting recess. There should be about a meter from the free end to the bottom of the pit. This section of the pipe is wrapped with fine mesh, covering the upper hole with it.
  • A layer of coarse crushed stone 20-30 cm thick is poured into the bottom of the pit. A sand cushion is prepared in the ditch for the pipeline, taking into account the slope.
  • The metal cord is cut off from tires using a jigsaw or hacksaw. This is necessary to avoid the accumulation of air and pollutants underneath. Sometimes they simply make holes in the cord without cutting it.
  • The tires are released into the pit one at a time. They are bolted together, after lubricating the mating surfaces with sealant. The top tire should rise 20-30 cm above the ground.
  • Cut a hole for the inlet pipe in the wall of the rubber post.
  • They lay a sewer pipeline and connect it to a tire well.
  • Once the sealant dries, cover the outside of the tire pillar with roofing material and backfill the pit with crushed stone and soil. At the same stage, the pipeline is filled with sand and soil.
  • The top tire is closed metal sheet, a plastic hatch or other waterproof material in which a hole is made for a ventilation pipe to help get rid of unpleasant odor. The closer to the house the hole, the higher it should be made ventilation riser.
  • The cesspool cover can be hidden by sowing ground cover plants. If necessary, the hatch can be raised along with the landings.

Simple design ready to use.

Operating rules

A tire cesspool is not the most successful structure from an environmental and power point of view.

It is not suitable for large volumes of waste. Strict sanitary standards are presented to the location of such a sewer well in relation to a river, pond, lake and underground water source. In addition, it is desirable that the wastewater be gray, that is, it does not contain fecal matter, or the flow of the latter is minimal.

The cesspool will need to be serviced infrequently. The whole procedure boils down to pumping out the sediment, which gradually accumulates at the bottom. To slow down this process, you can add special bacterial preparations to the rubber drain well. This procedure will save the crushed stone filter from rapid silting and, accordingly, will prolong the filtration efficiency.

The desire to add urban comfort to country life encourages many to make an autonomous sewer system on their own from scrap materials. One of the popular home-made structures is a drainage pit made from tires, used to collect and filter wastewater. The design and installation of the structure is very simple, but the efficiency and safety of operation of the system is achieved only with strict adherence to technological standards.

  • Choosing a place for a cesspool

Design and principle of operation of the settling tank

Cesspool – simplest option arrangement of autonomous sewerage. With the advent of highly efficient septic tanks and local treatment systems, the use of drainage collectors in private households and cottage communities has decreased. However, this method of wastewater disposal remains in demand among summer residents.

The most cost effective and easy to implement system local sewerage based on the use of old tires. In this case, the walls of the drain container are reinforced with rubber tires, and the bottom of the tank is missing.


There are two possible options for organizing a drainage pit: 1 – an absorption well without a bottom, designed for the processing and disposal of gray waste and clarified water that has been treated in a septic tank, 2 – a sealed storage tank, arranged for collecting mixed or brown wastewater. Both methods are simple and easy to implement

The base of the absorbing, or otherwise filtering, option is a drainage layer of crushed stone and sand. The stability of the structure is achieved due to the weight of the tires themselves, soil filling and accumulated wastewater.


At the top of the “tower” made of tires, a sewer pipeline is provided. The entire structure is covered with a lid, which prevents the spread of unpleasant odors and clogging of the pit.

Operating principle of the absorption pit:

  • The waste liquid flows through the pipe into the container.
  • Heavy, solid suspensions settle on the surface of the “cushion” of crushed stone.
  • Semi-purified water seeps through the drainage layer and passes deep into the soil.
  • The accumulated sludge is periodically pumped out of the tank.
  • To improve the quality of filtration and speed up the drainage of wastewater, a hollow perforated pipe is installed inside the tire tank.




    Part of the wastewater is subjected to double purification - suspended matter that has not settled to the bottom is filtered out by a drainage pipe and undergoes further treatment in a sand and gravel backfill

    The feasibility of a drainage collection made from tires

    When planning the construction of a cesspool from tires, it is necessary to compare the features of the arrangement, the efficiency of the drainage collection with the expected operating conditions and “loads” on the sewer system.

    The main arguments in favor of a well made of rubber products:

  • Low cost. You can get used tires for free - a car service center or trucking company still has a lot of old tires left for recycling. In extreme cases, worn out car tires You can buy it for almost pennies at a flea market. The main expense item is the arrangement of the supply pipeline.
  • Easy to install. Preparing the material, installing and connecting the drain tank is a feasible task for one person. The work does not involve the use of expensive tools and equipment.
  • Rubber does not corrode, so the pit will last longer than a structure made from metal barrels. Average term operation – 10-12 years.




    For the construction of an absorption well, any car tires, the diameter of which exceeds 1 meter. The entire process of constructing a drainage pit from tires will take 1-2 days

    “Handicraft” sewerage has a number of negative factors that limit its use:

  • Poor performance. Even very large tires are not able to provide sufficient volume for the accumulation and removal of wastewater. The tire absorption pit is suitable for a family of two or three people.
  • Freezing of the system. Despite the use thermal insulation materials at severe frosts the rubber dies, which can lead to freezing of the drains and stopping the sewage system.
  • Unpleasant smell. From time to time, “aromas” of sewage may be heard from the direction of the cesspool. To eliminate the problem, install a ventilation pipe and cover the hatch with a tight lid.
  • Limited use. The degree of wastewater purification by an absorption pit reaches 40% - this is not enough for safe disposal into the ground. In order not to disturb the ecological balance, heavily contaminated liquid and fecal matter should not be dumped into the tire drain pit.
  • Insufficient tightness. It is quite difficult to ensure complete impermeability of the joints between tires. When the soil moves and after cleaning, there is a high probability of depressurization of the structure - sewage begins to seep into the ground.
  • Loss of tightness is the most common reason malfunction of the sewer system. Possible solutions to the problem: overhaul of the structure after cleaning or complete dismantling rubber well followed by the construction of a trench from new tires.




    Accumulated sludge prevents normal drainage of wastewater, so the collection tank must be cleaned regularly. The cleaning process is very labor-intensive due to the unevenness of the tank walls

    It is advisable to build an absorption well from tires when carrying out following conditions:

    • the volume of waste liquid does not exceed 1 cubic meter/day;
    • the groundwater level in the area is at a depth of 2 m;
    • It is preferable to install a cesspool without a bottom on light, well-drained soils (sand, sandy loam); on heavy substrates (clay), the water tends to stagnate.

    Construction of a pit is advisable for summer cottage, saunas or baths for seasonal use.

    Choosing a place for a cesspool

    When constructing a drainage pit, one should be guided by the standards set out in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88. The document clearly defines the permissible boundaries of the placement of the sewer system on the site.




    The basic rule when choosing a location is: the distance from a residential building to sewage pit must be at least 15 m. Deviation from the standard is possible in agreement with the local SES

    Additional, but no less significant, restrictions on the removal of a reservoir with sewage:

  • Distance to water pipes depends on the direction of movement of groundwater. The direction can be approximately determined by the slope of the terrain. When water flows from the drainage pit, the minimum distance between the designated objects is 40 m, otherwise - no less than 25 m.
  • To the nearest well or deep well with drinking water must be 50 m or more. In practice, it is very difficult to comply with this norm. With the permission of the SES, this distance is reduced to 30 m.
  • The distance to open water is at least 30 m.
  • The distance between trees, bushes and a cesspool is 4 m. The same parameter is determined for the roadway.
  • The distance of the treatment plant from the neighboring site is about 3 meters.
  • The optimal location of the pit is in the lowland of the site in the direction of groundwater. To reduce the likelihood of an unpleasant odor entering the home, a container with sewage is built on the leeward side, away from the house.

    When planning, it is necessary to ensure unimpeded access for cleaning equipment to the cesspool.




    The standard length of the hose for a sewer truck is 6 m, with 1.5-2 m going into the depth of the trench. Modern special equipment is equipped with hoses with a length of 10 m, but its call and work will cost an order of magnitude more.

    Technology for constructing a tire cesspool

    Below is step-by-step instructions to create a drainage pit with a drainage well. The material used to construct the absorption well is old tires.

    Calculation of the volume of the drain tank

    The primary task of constructing an autonomous tire treatment system is to calculate the volume of the drain tank to determine the number and dimensions of tires used. The volume of the chamber depends on the number of people living in the house.

    According to regulatory data, one adult spends about 170-200 liters of water per day (for bathing, washing, cooking, etc.). If we take as a condition that a family consists of three people, then the daily volume of wastewater will be about 600 liters (0.6 cubic meters).




    By technological rules, sewers of this type must accommodate three times the daily volume of wastewater. The norm is due to the fact that the period of primary decomposition of organic matter, the breakdown of sewage into suspension of different fractions, is three days

    This means that the resulting value (0.6 cubic meters) is multiplied by three. In total, the tank capacity should be 1.8 cubic meters. However, for the accuracy of calculations, the type of soil should be taken into account. When arranging a cesspool on a porous substrate, the volume of the “rubber” tank can be reduced by 20%. In case of dense soil, increase by 10%.

    To calculate the number of tires, you need to determine the volume of one tire. This is easy to do if you know the diameter and height of the tire.




    The volume of a tire is calculated as the area of ​​its base times its height. In this case, the area of ​​the base is the product of the square of the radius and a constant? (3.14)

    Preparation of materials and tools

    To independently construct an absorption pit and supply communications to it, you should stock up on tools and materials. Ground work is carried out using different types shovel

    Shovel The curved scoop design makes it easy to rake and remove soil from the ditch. If the metal blade of the shovel bends, it can be reinforced with additional sides.

    Bayonet shovel. It is used at the beginning of digging, so a tool with a standard length handle (1.5 m) is suitable.

    "Digger." A ripper shovel with a long holder, similar in design to double forks. The tool is designed for loosening hard soil layers.




    For ease of use at depth, the shovel is equipped with a long handle (2.5-3 m). It is advisable to make a cross-shaped grip on the edge of the handle - it will make it easier to flip the bayonet

    Indicative list of materials:

  • Tires. Tires from tractors, trucks or cars are suitable. In case of high groundwater, it is better to use products of large diameter - it will be possible to obtain the required volume without going deep into the groundwater.
  • Crushed stone, gravel and sand. Materials are needed to construct the filter bottom of the tire tower.
  • Sewage pipes. For pipeline assembly, two-layer polyethylene or propylene pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are suitable. Additionally, you need to purchase corrugations, tees, plugs and fittings.
  • Lid. A plastic insulated model is suitable. The diameter is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the drainage pit.
  • Film waterproofing and concrete mortar. Materials are necessary to ensure the tightness of the tank - the outer cracks of the “pyramid” are coated with the solution, and the inner surface of the walls is lined with film.
  • Plastic or concrete pipe. It goes deep into the drainage layer and acts as a filter element.
  • For installation work You will need: a cutter or jigsaw, a tape measure, a building level, a garden auger, a ladder, a bucket and a rope.

    Sewer pipe outlet

    The organization of a local treatment system begins with the arrangement of the outlet. Subsequently, the riser in the house is assembled, tees and outlet pipes are connected. In an old building, the sewer pipeline is discharged through an underground or cellar.

    If the new house does not have an exhaust duct provided in advance, then you will have to dismantle the floor and make a hole in the foundation.




    Next, a trench is prepared leading from the house to the cesspool. It is necessary to ensure a sufficient slope for drainage - at least 1.5-2 cm per linear meter

    The depth of the pipeline at the exit from the house should be at least 60 cm, optimally 1 m. If in some areas the depth of the trench is less than 90 cm, then the pipeline must be insulated.

    Earthworks - digging a pit

    One of the tires is used as a pattern for marking the boundaries of the pit. The tire must be placed in the chosen place and pegs should be placed around the perimeter of the circle. In order for the tires to fit freely into the pit in the future, the diameter of the ring must be expanded by 20-40 cm.

    At first, it is convenient to dig the ground with a bayonet shovel. The fertile soil layer (the first 50 cm) can be evenly distributed throughout the garden; deeper soil layers can be used for backfilling.

    It is easier to continue digging a deep pit with a shovel with a long handle - the compacted soil is loosened by a “digger”, then collected shovel and loaded into buckets. To descend into the ditch and lift filled containers to the surface, a ladder is lowered into the excavation. Working together, the digging process can be accelerated and a primitive lifting mechanism- tie a rope to the buckets.




    The pit is further deepened to the thickness of the drainage cushion (20-30 cm). The walls of the pit are freed from tree roots so that as they grow they do not damage or move the tires

    For safety reasons, excavation work at depth must be carried out with a partner. One person is engaged in digging, and the second helps on the surface and insures against the collapse of the walls of the pit. This requirement is especially relevant when constructing a pit in unstable soils.

    Preparation of car tires

    Regarding the technology for preparing tires for installing a cesspool, the opinions of the performers were divided. The first group believes that there is no need to do any manipulations with the tires, since complete or partial removal of the tread will negatively affect the stability of the segments and the tightness of the structure as a whole.

    However, keeping the tire beads worsens the performance of the absorption pit - the useful volume of the tank is significantly reduced, and waste accumulates very quickly in the formed “pockets”. At the same time, it is almost impossible to efficiently clean the sludge from the embossed walls - the tank quickly fills with sewage, and the sewage system fails.




    Optimal solution– partial cut of the rim. On the wheels, you need to leave 5-7 cm at the side ends for fixation with adjacent segments

    In one tire you need to cut a hole for connecting the sewer pipe.

    Formation of a drainage well

    At depth, the soil is often heavy, clayey, poorly absorbent and permeable to moisture. To increase the suction area of ​​waste liquid and improve the efficiency of the absorption trench, one or more drainage channels are installed.

    Work progress:

  • Use a garden drill to drill the deepest possible hole - the channel should pass through dense rocks that slow down the outflow of filtered water. The depth of the trench from the bottom of the pit is up to 3-5 m.
  • Prepare a pipe that matches the length and diameter of the drainage channel. To prevent the filtration pipe from silting, its upper edge must be 1 m higher than the base of the drainage pit.
  • The side walls of the pipe, starting from the top and not reaching 50 cm to the bottom, are drilled. The top of the channel is covered with a fine-mesh polypropylene mesh.
  • After casing the drainage well, i.e. installation of a perforated pipe in the drilled trunk, a layer of crushed stone and gravel is poured onto the bottom of the pit - the thickness of the filter pad is about 20-30 cm.




    A sewer can be used as an outlet channel. plastic pipe diameter 110 mm. A more affordable alternative is asbestos-cement pipe

    Laying tires and sealing walls

    The first tire is placed at the bottom of a kind of shaft, passing a drainage pipe through it. In a similar way, the second tire is lowered into the hole, and the beads of adjacent wheels are connected in a convenient way.




    Having compared and aligned both tires, you need to do through holes in protectors. Pass a metal wire through them or plastic clamp, and twist tightly

    During the construction of the tower, the external joints are sealed - the joints of the tires are processed concrete mortar or bitumen mastic. After the mixture has set, you can begin backfilling the pit.




    Fixing and strengthening the walls of the tire tank in the ground is carried out different ways: filling with a sand-earth mixture, pouring concrete or filling the space with remaining tires. Vertically laid tires will immobilize the structure

    The end of the last tire should rise slightly above the ground. Upon completion of laying all the tires, the inside walls of the container are covered with waterproofing material. Most affordable option hydrobarrier - a sealant suitable in composition.

    The final stage of arranging a cesspool

    A small embankment is made along the perimeter of the beads of the finishing tire and compacted - a kind of blind area is obtained that prevents rainwater from penetrating inside the trench. The container is closed from above with an insulated hatch.

    Through plastic cover you can remove the ventilation pipe. The length of the outer part of the ventilation duct must be at least 60 cm to ensure normal draft.




    Ventilation system cesspool solves several problems: access of oxygen to activate aerobic bacteria and removal of gaseous products of sewage processing

    In order not to deteriorate the thermal and waterproofing properties of the hatch, the sewer hood can be made in another way. You need to cut a hole in the closing tire and install an “L”-shaped ventilation sleeve with an exit to the outside. These works are carried out before backfilling the pit.




    In order to prevent clogging ventilation duct, flooding or small animals falling into a pit, a protective umbrella is installed on the pipe

    Video about sewerage from tires

    Technology for manufacturing a cesspool trench from tires with main and side drainage on the walls:

    Construction of a homemade drainage pit for a summer residence:

    The “makeshift” version of the cesspool is simple and easy to construct. However, when using it, there remains a risk that some of the sewage will go into the ground without filtration, since the tire structure does not guarantee complete tightness. The construction of an absorption trench made of tires is justified only in rare cases.

    Provided that the dacha is rarely visited seasonally (for example, only for gardening or harvesting), there is no need to install expensive cleaning stations or. A sewer system operating without maximum load will make do with a simple pit, the walls of which are assembled from old car tires.

    Into such a pit you can dump both water from showers and sinks, as well as the contents of home toilets. And construction work does not require any special skills from the owners. The cost of sewerage will be extremely low. After all, the main construction material You often get it for free from friends or neighbors who have replaced the old tires of their car with new ones.

    At first glance, such a sewer pit has many advantages:

    • it can cost the owners free of charge;
    • construction takes a maximum of one day;
    • Tires of any size can be used;
    • you can build alone.

    However, such a structure also has serious shortcomings, such as:

    • short service life (on average up to 10 years);
    • poor tightness of sections (in fact, its absence);
    • the presence of an unpleasant odor;
    • low productivity;
    • impracticality of repair or dismantling.

    In addition, a structure of this type is absolutely not suitable for areas with.

    Ingress of sewage waste into surface and groundwater is fraught with the spread of infections dangerous to human health.

    Principle of operation

    The pit is actually a settling tank with the ability to filter the contents into the surrounding soil. Through the gaps in the walls, the liquid gradually goes into the soil, and large organic matter settles to the bottom. Rotting is a mandatory attribute of a pit.

    At the same time, you cannot equate a classic tank with a septic tank built from tires! The latter has much less frequent pumping with the use of sewage disposal equipment.

    If desired, you can build a simple cleaning system from tires. To do this, two pits (wells) are connected to each other by overflow pipes. The primary settling tank removes most of the large organic impurities. The second chamber contains only partially clarified water, which is absorbed into the soil faster.

    In this case, the decomposition processes will accelerate and the presence of sewer odor will be partially reduced.

    How does it work?

    A hole for tires is dug only in areas with deep groundwater! Minimum distance from the bottom of the structure to the upper water layer is 100 centimeters.

    The possible risk of contamination should also be taken into account drinking water. Therefore, the pit is placed taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the distance to or. For sandstones it is 30 meters, and for clay soils– 20 meters. The structure is separated from residential buildings by at least 5-6 meters.

    It is advisable to locate the structure on the natural slope of the site, that is, below the water intake level. Pipes and the sewer tank itself must be placed below the freezing point of the soil in a particular region! Some resourceful owners enclose both the pipes and the septic tank in a special wood box. This engineering feature prevents deformation during possible freezing of the soil.

    What materials are suitable?

    As mentioned above, any tires can be used. Naturally, these will be already used, fairly worn-out products. But wear will not affect the safety of tires in the ground– rubber does not rot and does not react with aggressive environments.

    To increase the volume of the structure, it is advisable to choose tires from large vehicles (if possible) - trucks, tractors, buses. Tires for domestic passenger cars have metal carcass, providing additional rigidity.

    How to build?

    For the work you will need the following tools and materials:

    shovel and bayonet shovel;

    • knife for cutting rubber;
    • electric jigsaw;
    • sewer;
    • wire for fastening structural parts;
    • cover (hatch) of suitable diameter;
    • sand for sprinkling, but you can use regular soil;
    • tires in the amount of 5-7 pieces (this is enough to serve two or three people).

    Step-by-step installation looks like this:

    1. Markings are made for both sections of the septic system. To do this, place the tire on the ground and mark the perimeter.
    2. A common hole is dug with a small margin to ensure free movement when lowering the tires. The bottom of the pit can be covered with sand, clay (additional tightness is ensured) or filled with concrete (such a base prevents deformation during soil heaving).
    3. The design details are prepared - the upper part of each tire is removed with a jigsaw, which ensures the most even surface of the walls (there will be nothing for impurities to linger on).
    4. The tires are lowered into the pit one by one and tied with wire. Additional tightness can be achieved by lubricating the joints with rubber glue.
    5. An overflow pipe is installed between the wells (about two-thirds from the bottom of the structure).
    6. The sewerage system is connected to the first well. To do this, a hole is cut in the tire. A rubber coupling and sealant are used for connection.
    7. The pit is filled with soil or sand. The backfill is carefully compacted along the perimeter of the structure.
    8. A lid is installed on top. This could be a polymer hatch, an iron or wooden cover.
    9. An access area is being built around it in case the vacuum cleaners are called. At this point, construction work is considered completed.

    And to get rid of the unpleasant smell, you need to install a pipe. The closer the sewer drain is to residential buildings, the higher the pipe should be. Much also depends on the prevailing winds in a particular area. It is better to position the structure so that the wind carries the smell away from the house.

    Errors made during installation are as follows:

    • the slope of the main pipeline is not maintained - waste flows slowly, the pipe becomes clogged;
    • the level between the inlet and outlet pipes is not maintained - the overflow pipe must be
    • below the incoming sewer, between the wells it is also located at a slope of 20 centimeters;
    • the structure is located above the freezing point of the soil - pipes suffer in winter;
    • the structure is immersed in groundwater - the working tanks become silted, often float, and the infection enters the soil.

    Cost of construction

    If the owners were unable to get tires for free, you can purchase a used set of two of these products at a price of 1,200 rubles. There are more cheap options choice.

    Construction works carried out independently or with the assistance of a digger and a plumber. The range of prices for excavation work ranges from 240-600 rubles per cubic meter volume. Plumber services will cost from 500 rubles (relevant for the Moscow region).

    How to use?

    The use of such sewerage is subject to all basic rules applicable to any sewer systems.

    Properly installed sewerage means:

    Once, when planning the reclamation work on my site, the idea of ​​​​making a drainage pipe from old car tires seemed very attractive. What I liked most of all was that the tires themselves were free, it would seem that they were much cheaper. Conceived and done, description on page →, but during the process of this work the thought that I got involved in this work in vain did not leave me. In my opinion, a ready-made plastic drainage pipe is better in many respects, and if I did everything all over again, I wouldn’t bother with tires.

    Tire pipe
    the car won't hold up

    Car tire is quite soft material.

    Somehow, seeing this product on a car, one gets the impression that it can withstand enormous weight. Alas, outside the wheel, without pressure, this product bends even under the weight of a person.

    I saw a picture on the Internet showing a road exit and a pipe made of tires at the bottom. It goes across this bridge a car. Of course, if you pour a meter of soil on top of the tire pipe, then such a bridge will probably support a passenger car. Alas, a dump truck with sand will flatten such a pipe into a cake and will also stall on such a congress.

    Tires will allow quicksand at the joints. You can connect them in different ways, but tight gluing will still not work, especially if you use rubber different sizes and manufacturers. Considering that the tire is only 20 centimeters wide, there will be five such joints per meter.


    To assemble this
    pipes took 45 minutes

    The solution is to wrap everything with spabond, but in this case there is no point in saying that the material is free.

    Rubber tires must be fastened together. And the time spent on this is not so little. No matter how the pipe is ultimately connected, the labor involved in this work is not comparable to the ability to simply lay a finished drainage product.


    Industrial drainage pipe

    I connected the tires with a screwdriver using three screws, and it took me 45 minutes to assemble a 170 cm pipe (nine tires). It may not be that much, but in terms of 30 meters of ditch we can say that it took 2 working days just to assemble the pipe itself. (about this page → Drainage from car tires)

    The tire has a large outer radius. And at the same time, the difference between the inner radius is significant. It turns out that you will have to dig a larger trench under the tire pipe than under a normal pipe. The difference is especially noticeable if a pipe is laid under drainage. It’s one thing to dig a trench the width of a spade bayonet, and another to dig a ditch 60 centimeters wide.

    It will be very difficult to wash the tire pipe afterwards. You can insert a flushing hose made of rigid polyethylene tubing into an industrial drain pipe and push it forward while feeding water into it. This number will not work with tires; the tube will rest against side walls tires and such a hose will not fit far.

    Good reviews about the use of tires sound in terms of strengthening the walls of ditches. There they are not even fastened together and, covered with soil, they hold the almost vertical wall quite well. But turning a pipe out of them is still too labor-intensive and I finished my plan out of stubbornness → Drainage from car tires


    Number of tires for 30 meters of drainage pipe


    Tire drainage pipes