When considering what equipment is required for high-quality independent furniture production, you should pay attention to the format-cutting machine. Many experts say that if necessary, you can do it yourself. Let's look at all the features self-creation wood processing machine.
Purpose of the format-cutting machine
The format-cutting machine is used for cutting in the transverse or longitudinal direction with the ability to maintain a given angle, as well as trimming and cutting panel blanks.
Features of using a format cutting machine include:
- When using it you can get finished products high quality. This is due to the fact that cutting and other technological processes are carried out with high precision.
- The purpose of the machine lies in setting the basic parameters of the equipment, after which the part will be more prepared for further processing.
- Some models can carry out piece-by-piece cutting, others are designed to process a whole package.
When considering the functionality, it is quite important to pay attention to what materials the format-cutting machine can work with. The homemade and industrial version of the equipment in question is designed to work with:
- Chipboard, fibreboard, MDF;
- facing plastic and composite sheet materials;
- The type of solid wood does not determine the possibility of using the equipment;
- veneer and melamine blanks can also be processed on a sawing machine;
- laminated and paper blanks.
A significant limitation on the scope of application is that the workpiece must have precise geometric dimensions, that is, solid wood or other material must undergo primary processing.
It is advisable to use a format-cutting machine in small-scale production. Many small, medium and fairly large furniture factories install similar equipment with automated system processing. For domestic use, the home-made version is more preferable, since it will have a lower cost, and the setup and maintenance process can be carried out independently. In a home workshop, many people decide to install a homemade format-cutting machine due to the fact that it cuts workpieces with high accuracy and quality. When using a conventional sawmill, there is a possibility that the geometry will not be correct, and the end surface may also have other types of defects.
Design Features
In order to make a cutting machine with your own hands, you need to understand its design features. It should be noted that the standard design is represented by the following components:
- The bed is an element that serves as the basis for the entire structure. The frame is also designed to dampen some of the vibration.
- Working movable and fixed table.
- The saw unit, which consists of 2 saw blades, adjustable clamp.
The movable table has enough complex design, which consists of a trolley, support frame, rulers, separators, carriages. Almost all components are made of metal.
Saw unit
An important design element can be called the saw unit. A homemade version is often represented by a welded structure, since this method of connecting elements can effectively combat the vibration that occurs during sawing. The main problem under consideration technological process is the formation of chips on the cladding, which reduce the quality of the resulting material. That is why the saw unit has two saw blades, which eliminates the possibility of a problem.
The features of the saw unit include:
- The assembly is solid, often cast from cast iron.
- Some models may have one electric motor, but often two are installed for each saw.
- A belt drive is used to drive the scoring disc. Note that the presence of a belt drive is a prerequisite for ensuring long-term operation of the electric motor, since this method of transmitting force allows you to smooth out the load exerted on the output shaft of the electric motor.
- The diameter of saw blades can reach 120 millimeters. They are made from tool steel, as it is more resistant to abrasion.
- The electric motor, through a belt drive with various pulleys, must provide up to 8000 rpm. Note that the higher the indicator, the better quality the surface can be obtained. However, increasing the frequency leads to a decrease in the feed rate and the emergence of structural problems due to the heavy load on the unit.
It is important to note that a self-made vertical format machine can have a rotating saw unit. It is quite difficult to make; it is necessary for cutting at an angle.
Main saw
When developing a format cutting machine at home with your own drawings, you should take into account that the rotation of the main saw should be at a frequency of 4-6 thousand revolutions per minute. If the indicator decreases, there is a possibility of damage to the edge. If you use a modern electric motor when creating a structure, then it is possible to regulate the purity of rotation according to the characteristics of the material being processed. The power of the electric motor should vary from 3 to 5 kW. As the power rating increases, productivity increases significantly, but also costs due to the consumption of more electricity. The adjustment can also be made by selecting the belt drive pulleys, however, such a reconfiguration of the format-cutting machine requires some time and calculations.
In most models, the cutting height and saw position are adjusted by moving the entire saw unit. In this case, such adjustment can be achieved in two main ways:
- along vertical guides;
- due to rolling around a horizontal axis.
Another important parameter is the height to which the saw rises relative to the table, since this indicator determines the maximum thickness of the cut.
In many cases, a roller carriage is used to move the workpiece. The trolley moves along steel guides, for which a separator with balls or rollers is included in the design. Compensators and regulators can look different, it all depends on the accuracy and quality achieved during processing.
Features of movable steel
Great difficulties arise when creating a movable table. This surface acts as a reference surface, so it must withstand the impact. The load is placed on the carriage itself and the connecting element.
Dimensional drawing formatting machine and cards
Because of design features At the point of contact between the balls and rollers, a fairly large load occurs. That is why, when creating your own format-cutting machine, you should use special guides that do not create backlash during operation. The accuracy of processing directly depends on this.
The following can be used as guides:
- rollers;
- balls;
- combination of rollers and balls.
The most popular design is a combination of an aluminum carriage and steel guides on which linear bearings are mounted.
At self-production guides, the following points should be taken into account:
- the guides themselves can be made in the form of steel strips;
- The guides are installed in such a way that the balls can be placed in two channels.
The scheme under consideration allows us to reveal the capabilities of the equipment in question, since the load can be effectively absorbed in any direction. In order for them to work for several years, you should choose a material for their manufacture that has been subject to heat treatment.
Recently, guides have begun to be made of plastic. It is possible to achieve the required accuracy of movement only if you use aluminum profile with a large number of internal ribs.
In conclusion, when considering the question of how to make a format cutting machine, we note that homemade options performance in terms of accuracy and functionality is significantly inferior to models industrial production. This is due to the fact that due to the presence large quantity moving elements, the rigidity of the structure is significantly reduced. It is quite difficult to independently create guides that will ensure precise positioning of the workpiece.
You may also be interested in the following articles:
How to do planer DIY woodworking How to make a zig machine with your own hands? How to do cross-cutting machines DIY woodworking
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping.
There is a fairly fair opinion that clean sawing of laminated chipboard can only be done using professional equipment (that is, a format-cutting machine).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.
This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.
Method 5 - Fraser
Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, suitable size). must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of making curved cuts, that is, making many, including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.
Many owners wonder what equipment is required for high quality workmanship cabinet furniture. Experts say that these are format-cutting machines, which are popularly called format circular saws or circular saws with a carriage. Each owner can assemble such a device with his own hands.
Purpose of the format-cutting machine
Format cutting equipment is intended for transverse, longitudinal cutting of lumber and cutting at a certain angle, format trimming and cutting of panel blanks, including the removal of overhangs after their cladding, as well as for the purpose of cutting full-size boards into blanks of a given size.
Format-cutting equipment, which is used in the production of cabinet furniture, allows us to produce high-quality finished products. The function of these machines lies in setting the basic parameters of furniture parts for subsequent processing. Such machines are designed for piece and batch cutting of workpieces.
Factory and home-made format cutting machines work with different materials: various types of wood, plywood of any thickness, MDF panels, chipboard, fiberboard, including composite sheet materials lined with plastic, laminated paper and film materials, veneer and melamine. This equipment, as a rule, is used for cutting material that has precise geometric dimensions.
Format saws are used in small-scale production, medium- and large-scale furniture factories, as well as in small carpentry workshops. The possibility of preliminary cutting of workpieces with a separate saw directly under the cutting area allows you to cut workpieces lined with natural or artificial material without chipping the lining.
Design of a panel saw
Structurally, format-cutting machines consist of the following elements: a bed, a fixed working table and a movable additional table (carriage, trolley, support frame, separator, ruler), a saw unit consisting of 2 saw blades, guides,
Saw unit
The welded design of the sawing machine guarantees high level stability and absence of vibration when sawing. When cutting lined slabs main problem is the formation of chips on the lining in the area where the tooth saw blade comes out. To cope with this problem, the drawings of panel saws provide a saw unit with two saw blades.
The saw unit is a one-piece assembly that is cast from cast iron. Two electric motors are installed on its body, which rotate the scoring and main saw blades using a belt drive. The scoring disc is located closer to the workpiece, its size reaches 120 millimeters, and in the same direction the rotation speed reaches 8000 rpm.
This disk is required for cutting the cladding layer from the side where the teeth of the main disk come out, which rotates in the opposite direction to the workpieces and makes the main cut in the slab, as shown in the video about the sawing machine. This design allows you to get an even and clean cut that is not spoiled by burrs and chips.
On some types of machines, a saw unit is installed using special rotary sectors, which can be adjusted to cut at an angle. In this case, the ratio of the scoring and main saw blades is not violated. The saw unit can be installed on a work table or on a stand.
Founded saw
In format-cutting machines, the rotation speed of the main saw ranges from 4 to 6 thousand revolutions per minute. Smooth adjustment speed allows you to quickly set up the format-cutting machine and accurately select operating modes for different materials being cut. As a rule, the saw drive power is 3-5.5 kilowatts. Remember that high power consumption, which is usually characteristic of a technological process in which a package of sheets is cut or cut, is not always appropriate durum varieties wood
The height of the cut or the position of the main saw in format-cutting machines is set by vertical movement of the saw unit. In this case, two methods are used: along vertical guides and by swinging around a horizontal axis.
The maximum height to which the saw can be raised relative to the table must be indicated in technical specifications unit.
Traditionally it reaches 80 - 130 millimeters. When the saw is tilted, this figure decreases accordingly. Some models provide automatic raising and lowering of the saw, powered by an electric drive, sometimes even setting the height using the control panel.
The saws of the format-cutting machine are, as a rule, inclined up to 45 degrees, as in the photo of the format-cutting machines. This will cause the entire saw unit to tilt. Thanks to the presence of special trunnions, the horizontal axis of rotation of the machine runs along the line of intersection of the plane of the fixed table and the main saw, which eliminates jamming of the saw in the table slot. This function is necessary in the manufacture of cabinet furniture elements.
Movable and fixed table
The main fixed table, which is cast from cast iron, has an upper milled surface, the dimensions of which can be adjusted by additionally installing extension and expansion tables on it and a parallel stop ruler that can move.
The movable table consists structurally of a carriage, which is made of a multi-chamber aluminum profile, a support frame, an angular stop ruler, which has folding stops and a telescopic extension, a support frame and its support. The carriage, thanks to its own design, is resistant to bending and twisting loads.
Most often in furniture production Format saws with a carriage length of approximately 3200 millimeters are used. This is the most suitable solution for devices with a movable carriage, because it matches most of the dimensions of the plates that are used by enterprises.
Don't chase high prices format-cutting machines, believing that they work better. Remember that the longest cutting length will always be less than the carriage stroke if you have a scoring saw. For complete passage The sawing zone with the workpiece requires an additional 200−300 millimeters.
To move the workpiece, a roller carriage is used that moves along steel guides, and a separator with balls or rollers that moves between V-shaped steel guides. To adjust the main table or saw that is movable relative to the plane, the design of format cutting machines, as a rule, provides appropriate compensators or regulators.
Guides and carriages
The movable table of format-cutting machines serves as a base surface intended for laying the slabs to be cut; it must support the weight of the material. The load is taken by the carriage itself and its guides. If they are not rigid enough, the carriage guides will be subject to not only vertical loads, but also torque.
Due to the significant length of the lever, the application of load at the contact points of rollers or balls in linear guides reaches a maximum value. Therefore, special guides are used in machines with a carriage, which ensure ease of movement and eliminate the occurrence of gaps in them, which directly affects the processing accuracy of the workpiece being cut.
Different machines from different manufacturers use guides different designs using rollers, balls and their combinations. The most common design, regardless of the cost of the saw, is an aluminum carriage that moves along steel guides on linear ball bearings.
The guides are often made in the form of steel strips, which are built into the aluminum carriage body in such a way that two “channels” are formed to accommodate the balls. Such a “prismatic” circuit is capable of absorbing loads in any direction. To increase the service life of the lining, the structure is subjected to thermal hardening before installation. And anodizing, which prevents the appearance of stripes on the workpiece due to aluminum contamination.
There are also guides in which the balls are not steel, but plastic, the rigidity of which is achieved by using an aluminum profile with a large number of internal ribs. Some guides have built-in wear compensators, but this unit usually cannot be repaired at home.
Additional options
Many panel saws are equipped with digital position indicators for stops and rulers, which are mounted directly on them. There are also machines in which the current position of the ruler or stop is set on the monitor screen using the control panel, and then similar devices move to a given position automatically by an individual electric drive.
On format-cutting equipment, the following can be used as standard or additional equipment:
- electric braking system for the main saw blade,
- adjusting the speed of movement of the main saw blade,
- system of automatic lubrication and angle adjustment of the saw unit,
- electromechanical drives,
- electric motors with increased power,
- upper protection of saw blades, which is equipped with a pipe for removing sawdust,
- pneumatic or eccentric clamps for holding workpieces,
- additional support frame,
- rotating ruler for cutting blanks and slabs at an indirect angle,
- double corner stop,
- vibration sensor,
- system of protection against ingress of chips and dust.
Manufacturing of a panel cutting machine
If you are planning to start making cabinet furniture, then you should ask how to make a format-cutting machine. Its operating principle is simpler than simple, but the price of a factory-made format cutting machine is quite decent. Not every private owner can afford to buy such equipment. But assembling a machine with your own hands is possible for every person who is able to handle tools and is at least a little familiar with technology.
During the work you will need: metal pipes, channels and metal corners, two electric motors, main dust and scoring disc, shafts from agricultural machinery, fasteners (nuts and bolts), a set of metal tools, a welding machine.
First, you need to make a strong steel frame for the panel saw using metal channels. The dimensions of the blanks for the base should be as follows: length of the machine 6500-6700 millimeters, width 2500 millimeters, height 800-1100 millimeters. Then construct the main and floor guide of the machine and fix them on the bed. For the manufacture of guides, it is customary to use a pipe that has dimensions of 60 by 5 by 6500 millimeters.
The movable work table must be made to move along a guide, because the table will feed the sheet during operation. Provide a cutting line length of 3000-3200 millimeters. If desired, you can increase or decrease this parameter; to do this, you only need to change the length of the guides.
Hang two saws on the machine - a scoring saw and a main saw. The saws should be installed on the saw block; they rotate towards each other and are driven by two asynchronous motors. Be sure to provide the possibility of tilting the block under acute angle up to 45 degrees. For this purpose, equip the saw unit with a special rotating mechanism.
Be careful when choosing motors, because they drive the saws. The motor power must be at least 2.9 kW. The motors must rotate the main saw at a speed of about 5000 rpm, and the scoring saw at 8000 rpm. In the design of the machine, use saw blades with a diameter of 250 millimeters, which allows you to cut laminated chipboards and trim sheets.
For safe use do-it-yourself format cutting machines in production premises provide good exhaust ventilation, because wood particles can ignite from the smallest spark that occurs during engine operation. Considering the high speed of movement of the saw blades, it is recommended to exercise extreme caution when working on the machine, since disks that rotate at high speed can cause injury to the worker, including loss of the hand and entire limb.
After making a format-cutting machine at home, you can begin to directly process the material. Sheets usually have large dimensions, so before installing the sheet into the mechanism, it is worth making initial markings in the places where the cuts will be made. The size of the workpiece should be larger by at least 7 - 8 millimeters on each side. After creating a small stack of blanks with markings, you can start cutting and trimming the material.
In this material we will touch upon a topical issue for garage craftsmen who deal with furniture made from chipboard, the question of how to cut chipboard without chipping. In fact, the question is quite pressing, because professional equipment (format cutting machine) on which cutting is carried out in furniture shops costs about a million rubles, which not everyone can afford, and the area for its placement should be slightly larger than standard 18 sq. meters. A special feature of such machines is the presence of two saw blades (the first is a small scoring one and the second is the main one, which follows exactly behind it). What can replace such a machine in an amateur workshop?
The most optimal replacement, in my opinion, is submersible circular saw complete with guide rail. That's what we'll talk about today.
Personally, I use an Elitech plunge-cut saw - this is a domestic budget model, which, despite its simplicity, allows you to achieve good results.
Professional models (for example, Festool saws, they cut even better, but also cost 5 times more).
So, how is a plunge-cut circular saw different from a regular one? Firstly, with its spring-loaded working part with a depth limiter. Due to this, it is very easy to set and change the depth of cut; in addition, the “head” returns to its original position on its own without operator pressure. Secondly, there are mandatory grooves on the sole for integration with the guide rail. Thirdly, there is a rigid design that eliminates backlash (the cut passes strictly in one place).
The tire itself is equipped with an anti-splinter tape (as a rule, it is a tape made of hard rubber - black stripe on the right)
The tape presses the laminate, preventing its pieces from tearing off at the points where the teeth of the saw blade emerge. The tire also has grooves for fixing to workpieces with clamps and tapes for easier sliding (red stripes).
By the way, the Festool saw is equipped with anti-splinter inserts on the side opposite the tire, which makes the cut clean on both sides of the blade.
The tire itself is rigidly attached to the workpiece and does not move. Fixation is carried out with special clamps (their shape is somewhat different from standard F-shaped ones. The price, by the way, too).
All these features allow you to cut in “two passes”. The first one cuts off the top layer of the laminate not deeply. The second is through sawing to the full depth. At the same time, there is no longer any material at the point where the tooth emerges from the workpiece, so there is nothing to pull out, and accordingly, chips do not form. This is all in theory. Let's look at how this is all done in practice.
The markup is quite traditional. Using a tape measure, mark the start and end points of the cut (you can use a carpenter's square).
We draw a marking line connecting these risks.
We set the guide bar along the line so that the edge of the anti-splinter tape aligns with the markings.
Please note that the tire lies on the part that should remain (there will be no chips on it - the tape on the tire will help). On a suspended piece, they are possible due to the absence of an insert on the saw itself.
You can, of course, saw by laying a sheet of laminated chipboard on a workbench, but this damages the surface of the workbench and you need to use replaceable tabletops (I don’t do this, although with large pieces this may be the only correct method).
The tire is attached to the workpiece in pairs F-shaped clamps, inserted into special grooves on the tire.
We take the saw in our hands and set the depth regulator to 11-12 mm, which corresponds to 5-6 mm of cutting depth (the bar itself “eats” about 5 mm).
We place the saw on the bar, aligning the grooves on the sole with the protrusions on the bar.
We make the first shallow cut. The photo shows that there are a small number of chips on the part of the workpiece not covered with tape.
And one more photo from a different angle.
And a close-up
We change the depth to 35-40 mm and make a second through cut without changing the position of the tire.
Having removed the tire, we see a fairly neat cut that does not require additional processing.
I took a separate photo of the part after removing the tire from above
And from the bottom.
By the way, the cut from below is traditionally cleaner, because in this place the teeth of the disk only cut into the material, they tear it out at the exit.
Let me also note one important fact. Use sharp discs when working. Disc used in this lesson, is already quite tired and requires editing. I think that with a zero disk there would be no chips at all.
In addition to the sharpness of the teeth, the quality of the cut is greatly influenced by the material being cut. There are thornier coatings and stronger coatings. In this example, 16 mm Lamarty chipboard boards were used - one of the best domestic boards. Egger or Kronospan laminated chipboards are much more susceptible to chipping, and I most likely would not have achieved such a result with this disk.
All these moments come with experience, all that’s left is to invest in the purchase of this device.
In principle, you can cut in “two passes” with ordinary circular saws with homemade guide rails, the main thing is that the sole does not dangle, but doing this is less convenient than using plunge-cut saws, primarily due to the inconvenience of rearranging the cutting depth.
Today we will look at a method for finishing cutting laminated chipboard without using a format cutting machine. This method is perfect for small workshops and is successfully used by Sergei Novikov, who provided us with this photo report.
We will talk about using laminated chipboard for cutting. plunge saw Festool TS 55 EBQ with bus (ruler). The saw has an intelligent filling that allows you to change the speed of rotation of the disk, depending on the load. It is used for marking the simplest tool: carpenter's square, tape measure, and for drawing lines - a thin marker and stationery knife(for light and dark decors).
The tool has a fairly high accuracy (that is, the cut runs strictly parallel to the edge of the tire). 
The cutting technique is, in principle, similar to what I considered for mine. That is, sawing in two passes. First, we cut the top layer of the laminate not deeply (2-3 mm), and then with a second pass we cut it to the entire depth of the sheet. 
In my saw, such cuts do not always turn out perfectly clean. A special feature of Festool is the use of a replaceable anti-splinter liner, which complements the anti-splinter tape on the tire. 
These anti-splinter elements are, like the wheels, consumables. Only the frequency of their use is much less. Essentially, they are disposable. Of course, the manufacturer recommends changing them after each use, but even here our Kulibins found ways to save money. 
Pieces are cut off from the used anti-splinter tape (which is removed from the tire) and molded onto double sided tape in place of the liner. 
The cut comes out very clean. For example, we specifically took dark-colored chipboard, on which chips are clearly visible. Opening one sheet when you get the hang of it takes 30-45 minutes, which, of course, is longer than with a format machine. But, in principle, not so long. 