Nails for fastening osb. How to properly lay OSB (OSB) on a wooden floor. How to make a floor from OSB: features, installation technology, recommendations and reviews

In construction and renovation, various materials are often used to cover walls and ceilings. sheet materials. One of these materials is oriented strand board (OSB), also sold under the English name OSB (Oriented Strand Board).

OSB: what is it and how to use it

OSB is made from wood chips and large shavings, gluing them together when high temperature synthetic resins.

The slab consists of several layers, usually 3-4, with different orientations of the chips.

In the outer layers, the chips are located along the long side of the sheet, in the inner layers - across. According to its characteristics, OSB is close to plywood, but costs less.

Benefits and Features

A distinctive feature of OSB is its high strength due to the cross arrangement of wood fibers. The strength of the boards is superior to MDF, chipboard and wood, slightly inferior to plywood. The boards show high resistance to chemicals. Some manufacturers use special impregnations in the production of slabs - fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the material. OSB boards are easy to process; to work with them you will need ordinary woodworking tools.

How OSB boards are calculated


There are mainly 2 standard sizes of slabs: 2440*1220 mm (American standard) and 2500*1250 mm (European). There are OSB in other sizes, but they are much less common and are produced mainly to order.


To calculate the quantity, the easiest way is to draw a wall plan on checkered paper, taking the size of the box to be 250 for European standard slabs or 300 mm for American ones. Then draw OSB boards on the plan and count their number. It is better to place the sheets in checkerboard pattern. In this case, you need to take into account how the surface will be finished in the future.

If you plan to cover, for example, with siding on the street or gypsum board indoors, joining with non-factory cuts is allowed, but if painting is planned, try to join the slabs with factory cuts. It is advisable to reduce the number of joints to a minimum. For example, it is better to sew up a fragment of a wall measuring 2.4 m by 1.2 m with one sheet, rather than 3 pieces of 0.8 * 1.2 m, because it is quite difficult to make a perfectly straight cut, and even a slight deviation from straightness will create a gap. To the received amount of OSB you need to add several sheets for reserve in case of defects or errors during cutting.

An easier way is to divide the surface area by the leaf area. In this case, “in reserve” it is necessary to take at least 20% of the quantity. Round the resulting number up.

What kind of OSB boards are there for external walls?


OSB is made in 4 types:

  • OSB-1 - used only in dry rooms for cladding.
  • OSB-2 – used as construction material in dry rooms.
  • OSB-3 – can be used both indoors and outdoors. Can be used in conditions with high humidity. Strength allows the use of OSB-3 as a structural material.
  • The most common class is OSB-4 - more durable and moisture resistant than OSB-3.

For cladding external walls, only classes 3 and 4 can be used.

External installation: lathing


External wall cladding can be carried out in several cases:

  • In order to level existing walls, hide defects (cracks, crumbling plaster, etc.) and simply as cladding.
  • At frame construction– to protect the insulation from wind and precipitation, and also as an element of the supporting system.
  • When insulating walls - to protect the insulation from atmospheric phenomena.

In all 3 cases, OSB sheets are attached to the sheathing. The sheathing is made from wooden lumber of various sections, depending on the task. Unplaned softwood timber is most often used. natural humidity section 50*50 or 40*50 mm. OSB can be attached to a metal frame.

When insulating, the sheathing is done in steps that are a multiple of the width of the insulation minus 20 mm, without insulation - the step is chosen so that the joints of the sheets fall on the beam; several additional racks are added between the joints with a distance between them of at least 600 mm.

When covering walls, use a moisture-proof film, following the recommendations of its manufacturer, in particular, the distance between the membrane and the OSB.

How to attach panels to the wall


OSB boards are usually attached to the wall through the sheathing using wood screws when using bars in the frame or metal when attaching to a frame made of metal profile. The length of the screw should be 25-45 mm.

It is allowed to mount OSB directly to the wall. To do this, holes are drilled in a sheet cut to size, the sheet is installed in place, the wall is drilled in the designated places with a hammer drill, dowels are inserted and screws are tightened. When attached to wooden base The hardware is screwed in without pre-drilling.

Fasten the screws in one selected direction, for example from left to right from bottom to top, otherwise the OSB sheet may bend.

How to decorate the outside beautifully from osb

OSB has a rather interesting texture, which leaves many finishing options. At the same time, you need to remember that OSB consists of 90% wood, so the material is subject to the same dangers as wood. Fungus and mold may appear on the slabs; to a small extent they are susceptible to rotting; the resin may be destroyed under the influence of sun rays, the ends of the panels absorb moisture.


OSB boards are treated with wood compounds for outdoor use. The composition must provide UV protection. To preserve color and texture, the surface is coated with colorless varnish and antiseptic impregnations, to impart wood shades - with decorative antiseptics, for painting in various colors - with facade paints for wood.

To obtain a smooth surface, OSB walls are plastered and puttied. Before applying plaster, the surface of the slab must be protected from moisture with special primers or glassine, then a plaster mesh is attached and plastered. Can be applied decorative plaster or painting.

Also, OSB walls can be covered with any type of siding or facade panels, block house, clapboard, etc.

OSB material for interior work

OSB is used indoors for cladding walls, ceilings, for constructing subfloors, as a structural material in the manufacture of built-in furniture, to create decorative elements, boxes, technological cabinets. IN frame housing construction OSB internal wall cladding increases the strength of the structure.

Work progress


OSB wall cladding consists of the following stages:

  • Marking.
  • Lathing device.
  • Laying heat and sound insulation, if provided for by the project.
  • Fastening solid OSB sheets.
  • Sawing OSB to size.
  • Fastening the remaining sheets.

Tools

To cover OSB walls you will need:

  • Hacksaw, circular saw or a jigsaw for cutting material.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Level.
  • Marking tool (tape measure, square, pencil).
  • Perforator for covering brick walls.
  • Chisel.

Interior finishing options

The unusual structure of OSB allows you to create a rather attractive interior. The slabs can be used without finishing, but it is better to coat them with varnish to improve their performance properties. OSB can be painted with wood paints or treated with decorative wood impregnations. To obtain a smooth surface, the panels need to be puttied with wood putty, after which they can be painted or covered with wallpaper.

How to properly make lathing for osb


When installing sheathing from bars, first attach the beam around the perimeter, then install vertical posts with a pitch of 406 mm with a sheet width of 1220 mm and 416 mm with a sheet width of 1250. If you need to join the sheets in height, a horizontal bar is attached at the junction.

The bars are attached to the wall in 2 ways:

  1. Directly through the block. When attaching to concrete, brick, cinder block and aerated concrete walls, holes are drilled in the blocks along the diameter of the dowel in increments of 300-400 mm, the block is placed against the wall, holes are drilled in the wall using a hammer drill through the prepared holes, dowels are inserted and screws are tightened or anchors are used. It is more convenient to first secure the block along the edges, after which you can not hold it and calmly fasten it at the remaining designated points. When attached to wooden walls The block is attached with self-tapping screws without drilling holes. It is better to use “white” or “yellow” self-tapping screws, because If the “blacks” use too much force, the cap breaks off and it is very difficult to remove such a self-tapping screw. To adjust the frame vertically, wood linings are used.
  2. On galvanized corners or U-shaped fastening profiles. In this case, first mark the position of the bars, install the fastening elements according to this marking, then attach the beam with self-tapping screws.

When using a metal profile for the frame, a guide profile is attached around the perimeter, and a rack profile is attached to the plane. The profile is fastened to the wall using special hangers.

Racks and guides on the walls must be strictly vertical!

Is frame sheathing with OSB sheathing inside required?


OSB boards can be mounted directly on the wall, but it is better to use lathing. This will allow you to correct the slope or curvature of the wall, lay mineral wool to improve heat and sound insulation. The lathing also creates an air cushion, due to which the space between the wall and the OSB board is ventilated.

Installation of OSB boards

OSB is fixed with the long side vertically oriented to reduce the amount horizontal joints. When attaching the first sheet, you should control its level position, otherwise gaps may appear in the corners of the walls. Otherwise, the fastening rules are the same as for outdoor work.

What should be the thickness


OSB comes in different thicknesses: 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 18, 22, 25 mm.
Sheets with a thickness of 6 and 8 mm are used for cladding ceilings and structures that are not subject to mechanical load. OSB boards 6 mm thick can be used for curved surfaces with a large radius of curvature.

Slabs with a thickness of 9-12 mm are the main cladding material for cladding walls and ceilings both outside and inside premises, for constructing continuous sheathing under the roof.

Material with a thickness of 18 mm or more is used for making furniture, load-bearing structures and subfloors.

Examples of work


Attic lined with OSB


Built-in OSB shelving


Relaxation corner made of OSB


Putty on OSB

Operation of OSB finishing: features

Walls made of OSB boards do not require any special care; it is enough to follow the rules common to wooden surfaces, for example, avoid prolonged exposure to moisture.

OSB is a modern high-tech material, with correct installation able to last for many years.

Useful video

OSB or OSB (oriented strand board) is relatively new building material, which has become a successful alternative to plywood and chipboard. The role of OSB in frame construction and insulation of standard houses is great. Especially often, OSB is used to form and level floor surfaces. Today we’ll talk about how to do this correctly.

Types of OSB boards and their characteristics

OSB is a board consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with waterproof resins. Its gluing is carried out in 3 layers. In the outer layers, the chips are laid along the length of the panel, and inside - perpendicularly. This arrangement gives OSB strength and allows fasteners to be firmly held.

Used in construction the following types OSB:

  • OSB-2 – panels with low moisture resistance. They are used only for interior work in dry rooms.
  • OSB-3 is a universal material. Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. A large margin of safety allows it to be widely used in construction.
  • OSB-4 is the most durable and moisture-resistant board. They are used to form load-bearing structures in conditions of high humidity.

For construction and leveling of floors, OSB-3 sheets are usually used, which can easily withstand the load from furniture, equipment, and people’s movement.

When leveling small floor defects, it is enough to use OSB boards 10 mm thick. Surfaces with significant bumps and potholes will require 10-15 mm of material. If you are going to create a floor on logs, then the thickness of the OSB boards used should be at least 15-25 mm.

Wood boards such as plywood and OSB are widely used for laying subfloors under the finishing coating. Let's compare these two materials in the following article: .

OSB boards are used as a flat and durable base for various modern coatings- parquet, tiles, linoleum, laminate, carpet. The main functions of oriented strand boards are:

  • Creating a floor surface. OSB is a popular material for creating subfloors on joists. In this case, the flooring of the slabs can be carried out both on the upper side of the joists and on the lower side.
  • Leveling the surface. Installing OSB on a wooden or concrete floor will help create a completely flat surface suitable for laying finishing coatings.
  • Thermal insulation of the floor. OSB board consists of 90% natural wood chips, which have high thermal insulation properties. Accordingly, an OSB floor does not allow heat to escape and retains it in the room.
  • Noise insulation. The multilayer dense OSB structure reliably absorbs any type of noise.

Let's look at several popular technologies for laying OSB on different substrates.

Installation of OSB boards on a concrete floor (cement screed)

Let's start with the simplest situation - leveling a concrete base with OSB slabs. The work is carried out according to this scheme.

Sweep away debris from the concrete base and remove dust with a vacuum cleaner. The surface must be absolutely clean to ensure adhesion of the assembly adhesive. The base is coated with a primer. This also promotes better adhesion of the glue to the base. In addition, the primer creates a dense film on the surface, which does not allow the screed to “dust” during use.

OSB is laid out on the surface, if necessary, trimming is done with a jigsaw or circular saw. Rubber-based parquet adhesive is applied to the underside of OSB, using a notched trowel to ensure uniform application. Glue the sheets to concrete base.

Additionally, OSB is fixed with driven dowels. To guarantee retention, dowels are driven in around the perimeter every 20-30 cm. If the floor is flat and installation is carried out in a dry living room, then it is enough to secure the dowels in the corners of each slab (subject to the mandatory use of high-quality glue!).

When laying, expansion joints 3 mm thick are left between the slabs. Along the perimeter of the room, between the OSB and the wall, the seam should be 12 mm. These gaps are necessary to compensate for temperature and humidity expansion (swelling) of the OSB during operation.

On last stage work, the OSB base is cleaned of dust and debris. The joints between the wall and the slabs are filled polyurethane foam. Its drying time is 3-4 hours. Excess dry foam protruding beyond the surface is cut off with a sharp knife.

Installation of OSB boards on plank flooring

Laying OSB on an old wooden floor helps level the surface and prepare it for installation of the finishing coating. Installation is carried out as follows:

  1. To begin with, using a level or a rule, determine the localization of irregularities (bulges, depressions) of the boardwalk.
  2. Boards that “walk” or rise too high above the general level are pulled to the joists with dowels, recessing them into the material. In some cases, to eliminate creaking and unsteadiness of the boards, the floor has to be rebuilt and the joists replaced (repaired).
  3. Remove paint deposits from the flooring, erase swellings and protrusions with a sander or emery cloth.
  4. OSB boards are laid out on the floor, with the seams of each next row offset. There should be no cross-shaped joints! Expansion gaps are provided (between the plates - 3 mm, along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm).
  5. Holes are drilled in the slabs. Their diameter should match the thread diameter of the wood screws that were chosen to fix the OSB to the floor. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the slabs every 20-30 cm, and countersinking is performed for the screw heads.
  6. Use wood screws to attach the OSB to the floor. The recommended length of screws is at least 45 mm.
  7. If you want to make the floor more durable, install a second layer of OSB. The seams of the overlying and underlying layers should be laid with an offset of 20-30 cm.
  8. Deformation gaps near the walls are filled with polyurethane foam, which is cut off after drying.

This completes the process.

Laying OSB on joists on a concrete base

If there is a concrete base (for example, a floor slab), installing joists and covering them with OSB sheets allows you to create a level floor without the use of wet leveling screeds. And also incorporate insulating, moisture- and noise-insulating materials into the structure.

Let's consider the technology of creating an OSB floor on logs on an existing concrete base. Lags ( wooden blocks) are fixed to the concrete floor using dowels or anchors.

The wider the distance between the logs, the thicker the OSB boards used. If the pitch is 40 mm, then minimum thickness OSB - 15-18 mm, if the pitch is 50 cm - thickness 18-22 mm, if 60 cm - 22 mm or more.

Thanks to the logs, space is created between the OSB and the concrete floor. It can be put to good use by covering it with insulating material. For example, the floors of the first floors are often cold, so a thermal insulator can be laid between the joists: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, EPS, etc. If there is a wet basement under the ceiling, the floor structure is supplemented with vapor barrier films or membranes.

OSB boards are laid across the joists. The seams between adjacent slabs (widthwise) must run strictly in the middle of the joists. During installation, it is recommended to leave expansion gaps (3 mm between the slabs, 12 mm between the OSB and the wall)

The sheets are fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws or nails (spiral, ring). Spacing of fasteners: along the perimeter of the sheets – 15 mm, on intermediate (additional) supports – 30 mm. Nails (or self-tapping screws) fixing the boards around the perimeter are placed at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edge (so that the OSB does not crack). Fastening elements are selected so that their length is 2.5 times greater than the thickness of the plates used.

How to fasten OSB boards to joists in an ordinary city apartment, watch the video:

Creating a subfloor from OSB on joists

Laying OSB on wooden joists – the simplest way get a durable and reliable subfloor. This technology is especially appropriate for existing columnar, pile, or pile-screw foundations. Work order:

  1. Logs are installed on the foundation. The lag pitch must correspond to the thickness of the OSB boards used (the larger the pitch, the greater the thickness).
  2. Perform rough rolling of the floor. To do this, retaining bars are nailed along the joists, and OSB boards are laid and secured on them. The surface facing the ground is covered with waterproofing preparations, for example, bitumen mastic.
  3. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the OSB.
  4. Stacked thermal insulation material, for example, polystyrene foam, mineral wool boards, ecowool, etc.
  5. Cover the insulation with another layer of OSB. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when laying OSB on logs on an existing concrete base (the technology is described in the previous paragraph).

At this point the work process is considered completed.

Processing OSB for different finishing coatings

A strong, hard and smooth surface makes OSB a universal base for everything. modern views finishing floor coverings. How to cover an OSB floor? Here are some popular solutions:

  • Varnish or paint. In this case, OSB boards will act as finishing floors, which only require decorative finishing paint and varnish materials. OSB sheets do not require any additional preparation; it is enough to clean them from dust and apply 2-3 layers of varnish (paint).
  • Roll materials - linoleum and carpet. When laying roll materials it is necessary to ensure that the joints between the OSB boards are located flush with the rest of the surface. It is advisable to remove all irregularities using sanding paper. Compensation gaps should be filled with elastic sealant.
  • Tile(ceramic, vinyl, quartz vinyl, rubber, etc.). In order for the tile to be held on the OSB base, it is necessary to ensure its immobility. For this purpose, logs are placed more often than required by the thickness of the sheets. The pitch between fastening elements is also reduced. The tiles are glued to OSB using a special adhesive suitable for wooden surface and the tiles used.
  • Laminate– a finishing coating that is fixed in a “floating” way, without rigidly fastening the lamellas. This coating is quite rigid, so there is no need to prepare OSB for it. Minor irregularities that may exist at the joints of the plates are leveled out by the substrate.

What exactly to choose is up to you to decide.

Using OSB allows you to inexpensively and quickly level an existing wood or concrete floor. And if necessary, create it from scratch on logs. An OSB surface will not require expensive finishing, additional leveling, or coating with moisture-resistant compounds. This - great choice for those who want to create a high-quality floor with minimal effort.

The subfloor is quick, high quality and inexpensive - this is exactly the combination that most builders and their clients are trying to achieve. The easiest way to create such a floor covering is from OSB boards. The installation technology depends on the type of base and additional requirements for the finished floor.

OSB: composition and characteristics

OSB or OSB are oriented strand boards. In transliteration, OSP is often called OSB, but this is not entirely correct, since it contradicts the decoding, but is used everywhere.

The slabs are a composite of large wood chips and polymer binders. They are formed from several layers located perpendicular to each other. This design ensures the resistance of the sheets to twisting deformations and makes them resistant to tearing and delamination.

In terms of production technology, OSB is identical to chipboard with the difference that the first uses finely planed wood chips up to 4 mm thick and up to 25 cm long, while the second uses fine sawdust. Thermosetting resins (urea-formaldehyde, melamine, etc.) are added to the raw materials as binders. Typical slab sizes:

  • height 2440 mm,
  • width - 1220 mm,
  • thickness – 6-38 mm

OSB is available in 4 varieties:

  • OSB-1 – thin slabs, used for the production of packaging, furniture blanks, construction of temporary structures, etc.
  • OSB-2 is standard sheets, which can be used in dry, ventilated areas. Application - for internal rough work (flooring, leveling walls, ceilings, forming utility boxes, etc.).
  • OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant material containing paraffin additives. It has increased resistance to high humidity and is recommended for use both indoors and for outdoor finishing work.

    Withstands high humidity both indoors and outdoors. When used in rooms such as bathrooms, bathhouses and others, it is recommended to use coating or floor waterproofing materials.

  • OSB-4 – durable high-density boards. This is a material for forming load-bearing structures.

It is impossible to say for sure which one is better or worse. It all depends on the destination. Leveling the base for laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles and other types finishing materials carried out using OSB-3 sheets. Their advantages are that they perfectly withstand heavy loads (furniture, equipment) even when installed on joists, are resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, are easy to process, and installation can be done even by an inexperienced beginner.

In addition to the above advantages, OSB is a heat-insulating material with a slight noise-reducing effect. That's why vinyl and carpet manufacturers often strongly recommend laying a warm, hardwood underlay over a concrete floor first, followed by a final finish.

The thickness of the slabs used depends on the installation method. For a flat concrete base with a difference of no more than 2-4 mm for every 2 meters of area, it is reasonable to use panels of 10-12 mm. When laying a floor on joists with your own hands, installation of OSB with a cross-section of 18 mm or more is justified. Experts recommend laying sheets of 10-12 mm in 2 layers with overlapping seams. The result is a multi-layered “substrate” that guarantees increased strength and durability of the base.

We will consider OSB installation technology below.

Laying OSB on a wooden floor

We especially note that you cannot use semi-dry cement-sand screed on wooden floors, lay gypsum fiber board, asbestos-cement boards and other similar materials.

The fact is that the coefficients of thermal expansion and moisture absorption of these construction funds do not correspond to similar indicators of wood. There is a high risk that the base may begin to rot under the leveling layer, mold, etc.

For OSB installation on a wooden floor you will need the following tools:

  • electric planer for removing excessively protruding parts;
  • hammer or screwdriver;
  • electric drill;
  • hydraulic level;
  • nails or screws for wood;
  • tape measure and construction pencil;
  • hacksaw or jigsaw;

From building materials, you will additionally need a lath to form a lag 4x5cm, 3x4 cm, insulation ( mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay) or soundproofing material, as well as antiseptic and putty compounds for filling holes and potholes in the base.

Installation begins with preparing the wooden floor. The surface must be carefully inspected, protruding parts must be cut off, and holes and other defects must be filled with quick-drying repair compounds. This can be a special wood putty, blitz cement, or simply sawdust mixed with PVA glue.


 Before laying OSB, skirting boards, nails and other irregularities are first removed from the subfloor

To protect against mold and bugs, the base must be covered with several layers of fire-retardant impregnation or primer with antiseptic additives. Ideally, you can also varnish it, but rarely does this happen. Complete drying time is at least 3 days.

The next stage is the frame. The joists also require protection, so the beams are treated with bioprotective compounds, cut to the size of the room and mounted to the floor with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-60 cm parallel to each other. The evenness is checked using a hydraulic level; thin dies can be placed under the slats for adjustment. Heat-insulating or noise-reducing material is placed in the gaps.

The final stage of the subfloor is attaching the OSB boards to the frame with your own hands using self-tapping screws or nails. The sheets are marked, appropriate cutting is carried out if necessary, and tightly fixed to the joists.

It is imperative to leave thermal compensation gaps between the wall and OSB sheets 2-5 mm wide. It is not necessary to leave a distance between adjacent slabs.


After finishing the work, you need to check the resulting base with a level. If there are uneven spots at the joints, they can be smoothed out with a grinder or simply sandpaper. Additionally, to ventilate the “pie”, it is recommended to drill several holes near the walls with a drill.

If you lay OSB on a wooden base without joists, then the floor should be fairly level, dry and durable. In this case, you can only get by with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, and the leveling can be done in a day. The coating will be of adequate quality if the materials are fastened to each other not only around the perimeter, but also crosswise over the entire area of ​​the sheet.

Installation of OSB on a concrete floor

A subfloor made of oriented strand boards can only be formed on dry, “ripened” concrete with a moisture content of no more than 6%. But even in this case, it is recommended to use a waterproofing film, membrane or coating composition. If you install OSB without this protection, then mold, fungi, and areas of rot may appear on the base due to excess moisture.

To lay sheets with your own hands directly on a concrete base, it is recommended to use panels 10-16 mm thick. Such leveling is allowed with differences of up to 2 mm per 2 m 2. This is enough to make the subfloor warm and smooth. Installation begins with laying the waterproofing substrate. The joints are fixed with adhesive tape. OSB sheets are placed on top and tightly secured with self-tapping screws. There should be a gap of 2-3 mm between the wall and the edge of the subfloor.


If installation is carried out on logs, then beams are first fixed on top of the film, heat or sound insulating material is installed in the gaps, then everything is covered with OSB sheets on top. Foam plastic, EPS and other types of insulation can be used as a thermal insulator.

To make a high-quality subfloor on joists or on a foundation, do not forget to constantly check the work done with a hydraulic level. This will minimize differences and correct errors in a timely manner.

Multifunctional, comfortable materials For many construction works, which can be viewed in photos and videos, oriented strand boards are used. Simple manufacturing technology makes it possible to produce OSB for interior decoration four types of basic and three special types slabs
Flat geometrically shaped fragments of wood chips or shavings are glued layer by layer into sheets of products. The optimal number of layers of shavings or chips ranges from three to four.
These boards are of a higher quality than conventional chipboards, or rather, they are modified, modern version. If funds allow, and technical problems require their use, then OSB is preferable to materials such as chipboard or plywood.

When considering qualifications and deciding how to decorate OSB walls, you should pay attention to the characteristics of the slabs.
So:

  • The first class includes OSB boards, characterized by application and use in an environment with low humidity.
  • The second type of materials is suitable for use as structural elements during construction in dry rooms.
  • The third type of qualification is used for the manufacture of structures in high humidity.
  • The fourth type of product is used for the installation of structures that can withstand significant mechanical loads in conditions with high humidity.

OSB boards are widely used in construction. The manufacturing technology eliminates internal defects characteristic of chipboard sheets (uneven filling or voids), which prevents OSB boards from shrinking or deforming.
So:

  • made of OSB will not only protect the house from dampness and insulate it, but will also minimize additional finishing work.
  • Moisture-resistant OSB board is used in the construction of frame-panel houses.
  • Its moisture resistance allows you to make reusable formwork from this material.
  • It is used as a base for external cladding walls and for interior work when finishing country houses, wooden houses from rounded logs, beams and cottages.
  • The installation of sheathing and rafters for the roof cannot be done without OSB slabs. They are able to work under significant load and withstand the weight of the roof itself, even from natural tiles, snow, wind.
  • Do you need to lay floors or level them? OSB board is being used again, creating a flat, solid base for plank floorboards, coverings or carpets.
    Important point– adjustment of slab joints to a plane; they need to be leveled if necessary.

Attention: OSB boards from not all manufacturers can be used as underlying layers for floor coverings, and the panels are laid with the smooth side up immediately before flooring.

  • Additionally, there is no need to coat the slabs with protective varnish or paints, because they are sufficiently protected by special impregnation.
  • Slab processing is not more difficult to process wood, it holds nails and screws well. OSB boards are not susceptible to rotting and are not affected by fungus; in addition, they have good decorative qualities.
  • OSB panels are successfully used for furniture production, being an excellent substitute for solid wood natural wood, but the price of products made from OSB panels is much lower.
  • The fairly light weight of the material is convenient for finishing or painting with your own hands and construction work

How to speed up the home finishing process

The desires of people who are engaged in the construction of their own, who can’t wait to move into their own corner, separate from their lovely neighbors, are understandable. A natural question arises: is it possible not to do the rough sheathing and start attaching finishing materials directly to the frame posts?
The instructions from specialists contain recommendations and an explanation of why this should not be done. To keep a house warm, it needs to be insulated.

The upper and lower slopes of the frame together with the skin form spatial rigidity, and they are mandatory elements in design frame houses. Without bevels, the frame retains its mobility even with sheathing, just as with bevels, but without sheathing, you can imagine the general picture of the consequences yourself, using your imagination.

Rough exterior wall cladding

There are quite a lot of materials used for rough cladding and there is plenty to choose from. Board, SML, DSP and OSB boards.
All these surfaces require finishing, plaster with a layer of polystyrene foam or mesh. Some advise leaving the board cladding as a finishing touch, but then additional processing of the wood is required, and even wind-hydroprotection of the walls under the boards is required.

The area of ​​OSB sheets allows you to get a smaller number of joints than when working with other materials; OSB finishing is used with a thickness of 10-12 mm.
So:

  • OSB boards are attached to the posts so that the joint is in the middle and there is a gap of 3-5 mm between them.
  • The bottom trim is completely covered with a sheet.
  • The top trim is tied to the number of storeys of the house. It is hidden entirely and the edge of the OSB board is aligned with the edge of the trim if the building has one floor.
    For a two-story building, the sheet is positioned so that it extends onto the racks of both floors, but the top trim overlaps the approximate middle of the sheet. This is not a necessary condition, but when it is met, the structure acquires additional rigidity.

  • Finishing osb boards when attached to two-story house, it is better to do it as a whole sheet in order to move the joints beyond the opening posts to adjacent posts. The window opening is cut into the slab.
  • Convenient joining of slabs is achieved by making additional vertical or horizontal jumpers in the frame with the same cross-section as the racks.
  • Fastening is carried out with spiral nails, self-cuts 4.5 mm and 50 mm long, you can use combined fasteners with self-cuts and nails.

The main thing is to follow the basic rules for fastening work:

  • Finishing in intermediate areas osb boards fixed after 30 cm.
  • The joining points of the plates are fixed after 15 cm.
  • The outer edge is stitched every 10 cm.

Attention: To avoid getting a slab cracked from diligent fastening, the distance from the edge of the product to the place of fixation is 8-10 mm.

  • A gap of 3-5 mm is left between the plates so that they do not warp and the fasteners are driven into the rack by 40-50 mm.
  • The vulnerable part of the OSB board or its “Achilles heel” is located at the ends. To protect them, expansion gaps of 1 cm are provided between the upper edge and the crown beam, the lower edge and the foundation wall, and between slabs where there is no tongue groove for connection of 0.3 cm.
    To treat expansion gaps, acrylic sealant is used, which should evenly fill all cavities.
  • The superdiffusion membrane, which has a vapor permeability property of 800 g/m² per day or more, in this design should perform the function of waterproofing and wind protection. The use of films, polyethylene, glassine is undesirable due to low vapor permeability, and excess moisture must be ventilated.
    The placement of the superdiffusion membrane depends on the rough lining of the materials and the final finishing of the products. The membrane is attached tightly to the frame posts on the insulation.
    The sheathing is arranged with wooden slats 20x50 or 30x50 mm, it allows you to obtain the necessary gap, then the finishing is done with OSB boards, DSP, SML or boards.
  • The vapor barrier of the walls is carried out with a film from the inside of the room, located close to the insulation, and secured with a construction stapler. The joining is done with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the joints are taped.
    It is not ordinary construction tape that is used, but a special double-sided adhesive tape for vapor barrier.
  • Vapor barrier can also be made with foamed, foil-coated polyethylene, which does not thicken the main thermal insulation of the wall.

Interior decoration

How to finish the slab, they decided to give preference to plasterboard when lining the internal walls of the house. The OSB slab wins the dispute.
It is difficult to keep the frame racks in a perfectly even condition when working, and drywall, like more soft material, in comparison with the OSB board, accepts these irregularities and, in order to subsequently obtain perfect surface more layers are required for leveling. The structure of the OSB board is much more rigid and allows you to somewhat smooth out the flaws.
Next comes the finishing touches.

Roofing work with OSB-3 boards

The most common way to use this material is in roofing work. Optimal thickness 18 mm for covering the roof with OSB-3 boards.

So:

  • Products can have either a smooth or interlocking edge, which is preferable.
  • The distance between the load-bearing beams should not be more than 610 mm, both when creating flat and sloping roofs.
  • The possibility of expanding the slabs is important, so gaps are left at one linear meter no more than 2 mm.
  • When laying slabs with smooth edges, 3 mm gaps are provided around the perimeter of each slab.
  • Fastening is carried out with nails to the supporting supports with a distance between them of 100 mm or more.
  • The finishing of OSB slabs is secured with nails, the length of which should be 2.5 times the thickness of the slab or slightly more.

Requirements regarding the use of products on water based. A slab made of polished panels looks better when appearance plays a prominent role in the interior.
Manufacturers recommend not to use wallpaper or ceramic tiles for their finishing.

Due to the fact that OSB boards have excellent physical and mechanical characteristics and a relatively low price, they have become quite popular in the construction industry, which is steadily growing every year. There are many reasons why the material has become so widespread:

  • ease of use;
  • excellent moisture resistance;
  • low price;
  • durability;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • strength.

With all this, OSB boards can be used in almost any part of the building: when arranging the roof, for cladding walls (internal, external), as flooring, during various construction works and so on. However, when using this material, you need to know not only how to lay it on the floor, mount it on the wall, installation methods and other nuances, but even which side to mount the OSB, since this is very important when arranging the surface.

Differences between the back and front sides of OSB

This type of material has (like fabric) a front and a “wrong” side. How do they differ and what role do they play when installing OSB? You can distinguish one side of the material from the other if you take a closer look at them - there are practically no roughnesses on the front side, the veneer is large in size, and you can even say that it shines a little. The wrong side, which does not have such a smooth and even surface, consists of small wooden fractions (chips). But, in general, this material is rougher than plywood. Depending on this, OSB is screwed as follows:

  • In order to install OSB boards outside the building, you need to turn them with the front side facing the street, respectively, with the wrong side inside the building.
  • When arranging floors in a house, the material is laid up (toward the sky) with the front side, and down (towards the ground) with the wrong side.

In principle, this is where the whole science ends, nothing complicated, but the process of laying and choosing a side on the material is very important.