Insulating a bathtub with your own hands - improving the characteristics of a steel bathtub. All methods of insulating a bathtub with your own hands

A bathroom is present in every home today; it is now difficult to imagine the times when, in order to bathe, we had to heat buckets of water to fill an old but reliable metal basin.

The idea to insulate the bathtub arose for a reason; on the eve of the winter cold, we all really love to lie in a warm bath and relax, but unfortunately it happens that our pleasure does not last long, for the simple reason that the water in the bathtub quickly cools down, and we constantly need to add more new hot water In order to maintain a comfortable water temperature, it is a very costly endeavor due to high water tariffs. Let's try to solve this problem and insulate the bathtub; today we will insulate a metal bathtub.

Rapid heat loss for metal bath this is one of the biggest disadvantages. A metal bathtub is the most common bathtub model, which is now used in most homes, and this is quite justified since a steel bathtub has such advantages as:
- low cost;
- durable enamel coating;
- ease of transportation and installation;
- stability of the entire structure.
But still, it also has some disadvantages, such as:
- rapid heat loss;
- low level of sound insulation.
We can eliminate the listed shortcomings with our own hands, spending a minimum of effort and money on everything.

To insulate the bath we will need:
- Vibroizol
- Polyurethane foam,
- foam gun,
- scotch.

Vybroizol is a special material that was developed for use in the automotive industry. Thanks to its composition, which includes components such as bitumen and a rubberized base, it perfectly performs the function of a sound insulator.

On the one hand, it has a dense adhesive structure, which allows it to adhere to any smooth surface without any problems.

You decide for yourself which areas of the bathtub to treat with this material.

I'm offering two options:
1. completely treat the entire surface of the bathtub to provide you with complete sound insulation;
2. treat only those areas of the bath where the water flowing from the tap comes into contact with the surface of the bath and the place of the bottom of the bath where your body comes into contact with it.

At this point, the stage of soundproofing the bathtub is completed, we can proceed directly to its insulation.
We will insulate the bathtub using polyurethane foam.

To do this we need a foam bottle and a foam gun. When choosing a foam, pay attention to its storage lines; do not buy foam with a shelf life stamp, as after their expiration it loses its properties.

The foam must be applied in even layers to the previously prepared surface. If you decide to insulate your newly purchased bathtub before installing it, then for convenience, turn your bathtub upside down and before you start applying foam, do not forget to degrease the surface.

It is important to apply polyurethane foam evenly, forming a single layer without gaps.
Before applying foam, I advise you to warm up the container under running water. warm water, then the foam yield will be the largest and most economical. Please note that the place for the siphon should not be covered with foam.

After all the insulation operations have been completed, our bathtub does not look very presentable, but this issue can be solved with the help of decoration. To do this we need to make a frame with metal profile around the tub and then seal it with your choice of plastic or drywall.

Proper bathroom equipment is very important for the owner of any home, because this is the room you need for comfortable well-being and good mood. Proper renovation can not only create a pleasant and comfortable environment, but even improve your health. All positive effect is achieved by the warmth and absence of excessive abundant humidity necessary for the given territory. The bath itself should not cool down too quickly; the walls and floor should maintain a comfortable temperature regime, it is also desirable that no unnecessary noise is heard from the operation of the sewerage system, neighboring apartments, boiler, water supply.

In this material you will learn how to lay thermal insulation along the bathtub itself, the walls and floor of the restroom. The proposed methods will not require large financial outlays from you, and you can do most of the work yourself without the need to hire professional builders.

Bath insulation

Many people prefer to purchase steel bath, because it is durable, reliable, lasts a very long time, convenient and is very inexpensive. The only drawback of such plumbing is that it does not retain heat well, the water in it cools down quickly, and the running stream of water makes a lot of noise. However, these negative qualities are easily compensated for by insulating the device, and you don’t even need the help of a specialist and don’t have to spend extra a large sum money. You can insulate a bathtub yourself using only regular polyurethane foam. With its help, the bottom will retain heat better and the level of outgoing noise will significantly decrease. You need to purchase large cylinders of polyurethane sealant at any hardware store; you will need three or four units.

You need to start working before installing the plumbing and connecting it to the water supply, because it will not be possible to apply an insulating substance from the floor neatly and evenly, and, of course, it is not worth dismantling the new structure. Therefore, we completely assemble all the parts, install plumbing equipment, which involves installing a drain siphon, and also fix support legs, a guide profile for subsequent cladding. That is, at the stage of complete readiness for installation, the bathtub is insulated with its own hands.

Do-it-yourself bath insulation

You only need a little to get the job done. building materials and tools:

1. Polyurethane foam with a gun.
2. Foam plastic.
3. Putty.
4. Two-component adhesive.
5. Fiberglass.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the surface for applying polyurethane foam. Keep in mind that absolutely any adhesive and sealing compounds are applied only to clean areas, therefore, first place the bathtub bottom up and thoroughly wipe the entire area from construction waste, dust, lint, dirt, packaging residues.

The next step is to wet a rag with plain water and generously wet the bottom for better adhesion to the insulating compound. Polyurethane sets well and hardens under humid conditions. Next, take one bottle, shake well, you can also warm it up a little under a stream of warm tap water. This technique allows for volumetric output installation material, which is necessary for maximum application. Point the tube to the bottom from the outside, gently press the lever and begin laying the composition like a snake over the entire surface of the inverted bath. Leave some space around the siphon because it is sometimes replaced. Also, do not fill the area where the overflow will be recorded. When the base is completely processed, wait ten to fifteen minutes and start decorating the side parts. It's better to start from the top, slower than you were before. Be sure to first check to see if the insulation you are using is leaking, and apply the sealant onto the steel in neat strips.

When working with polyurethane foam, be careful and careful; it should not get on other surfaces, especially on the skin. The thing is that this solution is washed off with great difficulty and only when using special chemical liquids, so put on overalls, gloves, cover your hair, lay cellophane or paper on the floor, cover all adjacent appliances, walls, and any surfaces with a protective layer. It is rare, but it happens that cylinders explode, the contents instantly scatter throughout the room and freeze tightly.

Foam construction

There is another option for designing a heat-saving layer; it repeats the technology described above, but involves additional details that will improve and strengthen the entire system - a combination of polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam. You will need sheets 20-30 mm thick. To calculate the required amount of thermal material, calculate the perimeter of the structure (standard length is 1400 and width 550 mm) and multiply by 2. It turns out 3,900 mm - multiply this number by the height. You will have an area that you will cover. You need these calculations because the foam is sold in the form of meter-long panels. As for the sealant, you should have enough supply of two large packages for each of the two upcoming processing stages.

It is best to apply foam with a special gun; it is sold at any hardware store. It lays the composition evenly and does not allow overspending, which provides you with obvious savings. It is convenient when the liquid comes out not in a stream, but in a neat strip. To make this happen for you, use a professional trick: take a tip from a plastic or polyethylene tube of the diameter that suits you. Heat the very edge of the hole a little, it will flatten, now form a slot - place the resulting tip on a container with foam (video).

The bathtub also turns upside down, make sure you have easy access from all sides. Be very careful not to deform or damage the enamel. Cover all surfaces of the room with plastic so that any remaining liquid can be easily removed upon completion. Don’t forget to cover the holes for the drain and overflow with tape, and seal the edges.

Continued installation

It was already mentioned above that the best adhesion is achieved when the base is sufficiently moistened. Wet the entire area with ordinary tap water. The nozzle is pressed against the metal at an angle, and the insulation is applied in even strips. Place sheets of foam plastic on top one at a time, distributing them so that they evenly cover the entire bottom. To cover curves, cut the panel into small pieces. The largest part should not exceed 15-20 cm.

Once all the elements are in place, wait 30-40 minutes and then begin filling the cracks and empty spaces between the panels. Wait the same amount of time again and use a knife to cut off the excess frozen mass. Now you have to last stage, on which additional protection is formed and an increase in the thermal protective layer is ensured. You need to put fiberglass.

To do this, use putty or two-component glue. The most important thing is that the adhesive composition must be fully compatible with the foam plates, and it must also be waterproof. To do this, choose from acrylic, epoxy or polyester solutions. The fiberglass fabric is applied in fragments with overlaps to the putty and glue.

Finally, when all the applied layers have hardened and hardened well, remove the tape, check that the siphon and overflow necks are well accessible, trim off excess material if it is inconvenient to install connections to these holes.

Wall treatment

Walls can also retain hot air longer; for this purpose, they are covered with mineral wool and fiberglass coatings. These bases have long gained popularity because they are effective and reliable, provide high levels of thermal insulation and waterproofing, are easy to process and install, and are completely inexpensive. To attach them, it is necessary to use a vapor barrier, which is formed from a superdiffuse membrane and a construction film.

Along with them, the installation of extruded polystyrene foam is common, because it is best to lay out ceramic tiles. Tile is considered the best and most functional decorative cladding.

Many builders use another interesting technique: they apply special thermal plaster on a woven mesh with a layer of 3 cm. In addition to the above-mentioned insulation materials, porous cement-sand mortars, perlite concrete sheets, and expanded clay concrete plates can be fixed. An important heating device in the restroom is a reflective screen installed behind the heated towel rail or behind the heating radiator. Thanks to it, hot air is reflected and distributed throughout the room. It can be made from a sheet of aluminum foil.

When choosing insulation, it is important to remember that a soft cotton base is laid under the drywall. You can choose tile materials, or you can choose roll materials, but their density should not exceed 50 kilograms per cubic meter. A vapor barrier film is always placed on top. The use of extruded polystyrene foam is important under the next layer of plaster. Choose products whose flammability group does not exceed G1. You can also choose a basalt slab as a thermal protective base for plaster and ceramic tiles.

Separately, it is worth noting the cladding, which should not be used as a thermal insulation base for walls - the use of granular foamed polystyrene is not recommended, it increases humidity and can provoke rotting, the formation of fungus and the spread of mold.

Warm floor

Heating floor provides optimal ratio temperatures in the bathroom are around +25-29 degrees below and +20-22 degrees above. Thus, it is created comfortable atmosphere, good for health, does not generate or spread mold and mildew. The floor can be installed from pipes supplying boiling water or from an electric heating cable (video).

Therefore, the entire system can be configured from:

1. Electrical cables.
2. Pipe
3. Electric film with infrared heating.

If you choose electric floors, then keep in mind that they are based on a heating cable, and it operates from the network. The use of such a system is absolutely safe because it is laid under several layers of insulation. To mount, you first need to draw up an installation diagram, then determine where the thermostat, sensors and connection point will be located. Then the reflector and conductors are laid, thermoregulation is installed and the entire structure is filled with a dense layer of cement screed.

Infrared floors are another functional new product on the market. They are also popular because their installation is much simpler than other systems, and you can do all the work yourself. You will be working with a heated film that can be placed under carpet, tile, parquet or laminate. You need to lay out the canvas on a flat, cleaned base and connect the sensors, check how everything functions, and cover the coating with a protective layer of film or cement mixture.

Also, some install a horizontal system of polymer pipes through which water is released from common system heating. A durable material is also poured on top cement screed, but such technology can only be performed by a repair and construction team.

As you have seen, even in old panel or brick houses you can equip a warm restroom, you can perform almost all of the above methods yourself, and building materials and repair equipment Now sold in any specialty store. The main thing is that a dry, heated bathroom is the key to your health and the well-being of your loved ones.

The bathroom has become an integral part modern apartment. We can no longer imagine life without a comfortable, secluded room where we can relax, pamper ourselves, and unwind. This is why sound insulation is so important. Taking a bath - best way recovery vitality after a busy day.

If in earlier times the bathroom was considered only a place for carrying out hygienic procedures, now it is a comfortable place where you can combine business with pleasure. Taking a bath has become a kind of sacrament for many people. That is why the choice of the container itself is important.

Advantages and disadvantages of steel containers

: expensive and heavy, replaced steel and. Bathtub container made of steel alloy - best option for replacement old bath. However, many people still do not trust steel bathtubs. This attitude towards this plumbing equipment has developed due to the fact that the sound insulation of a metal bathtub made of a steel alloy is low.

But this minimal drawback steel bath, which can be easily and simply eliminated. A steel bathtub has many advantages, which are a strong argument in favor of choosing steel structures.

The advantages of steel bathtubs are:

• Low cost of equipment compared to acrylic and cast iron bathtubs,
• Durable coating of enameled surfaces,
• Rapid heating of metal
• structural stability,
• Easy to deliver, move, install and dismantle,
• Opportunity different fastenings,
• Modern varied design and size.

Some people consider the following to be disadvantages:

• Low sound insulation of a steel bathtub,
• Rapid heat loss.

Sound insulation and insulation of a steel bathtub

However, many do not think about the fact that there are many possibilities and ways to easily, simply and quickly eliminate these shortcomings with your own hands when installing a container. A number of measures to eliminate noise and heat loss can be applied in advance of installation. And this will make the steel bathtub quite competitive, not inferior in its performance data to other structures of this type made of acrylic and cast iron.

Soundproofing a steel bathtub with your own hands is a simple manipulation, inexpensive, accessible and does not require special skills.

When purchasing imported equipment of this type, many paid attention to the presence of rubber or rubberized pieces of special material glued to the bottom of the bathtub. It is this material that is able to retain heat and absorb noise and splashes of water.

The process that makes the insulation of a steel bathtub complete is based on this principle of sound absorption.

So there are several simple ways to eliminate hum and retain heat.

Vibroizol

Vibroizol

In shops and supermarkets, in markets specializing in the sale of auto parts. This is where you can find the Vibroizol material. This is a specially developed material with a unique composition, which is intended for use in the automotive industry. With its help, many car enthusiasts restore the sound insulation of their car. Vibroizol is based on bitumen and a rubberized base. One side of this material has a strong adhesive composition.

Pay attention!

This composition adheres tightly to any smooth surface at any air temperature.

If Vibroizol perfectly eliminates noise in the car interior, then it will perfectly cope with its task in the bathroom - it will eliminate unnecessary sounds. To do this, the outer part of the bathroom is covered with this unique material. It is possible to treat with Vibroizol only the areas where water falls into the container from the tap and the area where the human body comes into contact with the bottom and some of the side walls of the bathroom. This will reduce the hum and noise of the water jet and help retain the heat of the container walls.

Polyurethane foam

The question often arises - how to thoroughly insulate an iron bathtub. The answer is quite simple - you need to use ordinary construction foam. Exactly the foam that is used to seal windows and doors.

The bathtub container is turned over and a layer of polyurethane foam is slowly applied. The foam is applied to a previously degreased surface. To do this, treat the outer part of the bathroom with an alcohol-containing composition. For convenience, the bathtub is turned over from its legs onto the sides of the container, placing it on a soft surface to prevent accidental scratches. The polyurethane foam is applied evenly, in a continuous layer, without gaps. To prevent the foam from draining, the layer is applied slowly, and the bath is turned from one side to the other as it is covered with foam. But only after the foam has dried.

To enhance the sound absorption effect, you can additionally use polyethylene film. It is best to use polyethylene, which is intended for forming greenhouses. It is dense, elastic, inexpensive. After applying the foam, a previously prepared piece of film is applied to its surface. He presses his hands against the foam, forming a “crust” on the area, similar to a shell. This will be additional insulation.

Noise insulation with polyurethane foam

When treating the outside of the bathroom with polyurethane foam, you should follow some rules:

• Foam should be used indoors.
• Foam for use in summer is more practical, as it is resistant to high temperatures, swells better.
• In order for the layer to be uniform, without sharp bumps, gaps and stacks, it is necessary to use a special nozzle for applying foam. Usually a special “ ” is used.
• In order for the foam output to be as large as possible and at the same time economical, you should heat the foam container under running hot water and shake it thoroughly.
• The place where the siphon is installed and the part adjacent to it should not be covered with a layer of foam. Since this place must be accessible when changing the siphon.
• Should be left free place overflow.
• It is imperative to pay attention to the terms of use of polyurethane foam, since this product loses its performance qualities after the expiration date.

Eat different ways soundproofing

Other ways

There are some other ways to insulate a steel bathtub. Often a steel bathtub is installed on a pedestal and then covered with slabs or bricks. Then tiles are placed on top. This method of installing a bathtub helps improve sound insulation, but also provides the opportunity to fully retain heat. But if you cover the bathtub with an additional layer from the inside of the wall, you will be able to correct the situation.

There is a method of increasing thermal insulation using technical cork. This method is more expensive, but the most environmentally friendly.

Pay attention!

With this method, the fire safety and moisture resistance of the structure are high.

The technical plug is applied according to the instructions.

See inaccuracies, incomplete or incorrect information? Do you know how to make an article better?

Would you like to suggest photos on the topic for publication?

Please help us make the site better! Leave a message and your contacts in the comments - we will contact you and together we will make the publication better!

Steel bathtubs immediately won the hearts of consumers who were fed up with Soviet cast iron models. But even despite this, they have 2 very unpleasant drawbacks:

1. High thermal conductivity. That is, the bowl gives off heat very quickly environment, so you have to constantly add hot water. This is very expensive, given that utility tariffs are constantly increasing.
2. Acoustic resonance. If you draw water into an iron bathtub without sound insulation, neighbors at a distance of 2 floors will be able to hear this ringing.

The above problems are not critical; they can be easily dealt with at the stage of installing the font.

In our article today we will look in detail at how to insulate a steel bathtub and reduce thermal conductivity. Read our special article on how to make sound insulation.

How to make thermal insulation?

There are many materials that will help you insulate your bathtub; let’s focus on the more practical and effective ones.

1.Polyurethane foam. Perhaps this is the most popular option among home craftsmen. The main advantages of foam are:

• low price and consumption (for one hot tub you will need 1, maximum 2 cylinders);
• resistance to high humidity;
• low thermal conductivity;
• ease of application

2. Foil polyurethane foam (penofol). A special insulating material that consists of two main layers.

The first is foam rubber with a large number of air microbubbles (as you know, air is one of the best heat insulators).

The second layer is aluminum foil, which reflects heat back to the surface of the bathtub walls. Polyurethane foam is more effective material for thermal insulation than polyurethane foam. But in terms of price, this method is somewhat more expensive.

For ease of installation, buy polyurethane foam with an adhesive layer, this will greatly simplify your work.

How to insulate a metal font with your own hands?

Below is the detailed step by step instructions on insulating an iron bathtub using foil polyurethane foam (penofol).

For detailed instructions on thermal and sound insulation of a bathtub using polyurethane foam, see our special article.

Step 1. Place the bathtub against the wall or lay it upside down on the floor, first covering it with cardboard or cloth. This is necessary to avoid damage to the enamel.

Step 2. The next step is to degrease the surface. A universal degreaser is perfect for this. But if you don’t have it, it doesn’t matter, you can use alcohol or regular dishwashing detergent. Wipe the entire surface thoroughly and let it dry for 10-15 minutes.

Step 3. If you have insulation in rolls, cut a piece of the required length so that the bowl is covered crosswise from side to side, as shown in the photo. Don't forget to peel off the film from the adhesive layer. After you have glued the sheet to the bathtub, you need to trim off the excess and once again iron the insulation tightly with your hand so that there are no bubbles.

Step 4. Measure the width of the most even areas and cut strips of 15-25 cm. Then glue them to the bowl in the same way, cutting off the excess.

Don't forget to cut a hole for the drain.

Step 6. Seal the joints of the insulation with reinforced tape.

Step 7 Remove the insulation from the mounting points of the legs.

Useful video

We have prepared video instructions for you on how to insulate a steel bathtub:

Conclusions

In the article, we discussed in detail the options for thermal insulation of the bathtub. And they brought full instructions for insulating the bowl using foil polyurethane. If you're more comfortable using foam, be sure to read article about heat and noise insulation using polyurethane foam.

August 22, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

Recently I performed a task that seemed strange at first glance - insulating a bathroom from the inside. It is rare that you have to install thermal insulation inside this room. But in the mentioned case, it was impossible to work outside (due to the lack of equipment for industrial mountaineering), and it was impossible to leave the room without insulation, since in cold weather frost even formed on the walls.

I tried to outline the sequence of actions so that the described technology would be easy to implement with your own hands. I'm sure the material will be useful to you.

Features of bathroom insulation

A bathroom is a room with a specific microclimate, characterized by significant temperature fluctuations and very high level humidity. Therefore, its thermal insulation requires a special approach and I have no right not to mention some nuances.

1. The need to destroy the bathroom interior. To insulate the bathroom, you will have to dismantle the finishing and then re-cover the walls with tiles, plastic or plaster. All these operations increase the cost of the project, time for its implementation and labor intensity.
2. Reducing the area of ​​the sanitary room. It’s unlikely that anyone’s apartment bathroom is spacious. So, an insulating pie will make the room even smaller. So think about whether all the necessary furniture and equipment will fit there after insulation.
3. Impaired air infiltration. Vapor-tight insulation does not allow moist air to pass through the walls, therefore, to regulate the humidity in the bathroom, you need to design not just effective ventilation, but forced ventilation - using powerful ones.
4. Danger of mold and mildew. This misfortune can only be feared if the thermal insulation is not done correctly.
5. Reducing the service life of enclosing structures. If you install insulation inside, the walls of your home will constantly freeze and come into contact with atmospheric moisture, which negatively affects their integrity.

However, in my case, install insulation on the 20th floor of the city apartment building I was unable to, because I can’t pretend to be a monkey dangling at a dizzying height. And I didn’t want to hire a specialist either.

That's why I resorted to internal insulation. Although there are some nuances that need to be mentioned:

• For internal insulation bathtubs must use materials that have hydrophobic properties and do not lose their performance properties when wet;
• it is better to choose materials with the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient so that the insulating layer is as thin as possible;
• for internal insulation, materials with great strength are needed to maintain integrity during finishing and possible mechanical impact.

Selection of materials and insulation technology

Manufacturers of modern building materials offer a huge number of different thermal insulators. This and mineral wool, and expanded clay, and penofol, and polyurethane foam.

But if you analyze everything said in the previous section, it becomes obvious that polystyrene foam and its more advanced version - extruded polystyrene foam - are most suitable for the job.

These materials have many positive qualities:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material protects the room well from unproductive heat loss, so to protect the bathroom from the cold, a layer of insulation 50 mm thick is sufficient.
High strength	Despite its low density (from 25 to 35 kg per cubic meter), the foam has a durable surface on which thin layers can be applied cement plaster or make a reinforced screed on it.
Hydrophobicity	The insulation has a closed cellular structure, therefore, in direct contact with water, it absorbs no more than 4% (EPS - 0.5%) of the liquid.
Light weight	Polystyrene foam consists of 98% air enclosed in polystyrene cells, so it weighs little and does not place much additional load on building structures.
Low price	Insulation is cheaper than alternatives thermal insulation materials, which allows you to save some amount cash, which can be spent on purchasing, for example, tiles. Or Jacuzzi baths.

For my own work, I purchased polystyrene foam of the PSB-S-35 brand (the manufacturer is unimportant here) 50 mm thick with dimensions of 100 by 50 cm. The letter C means the presence of fire retardants in the polystyrene foam, which contribute to the attenuation of the insulating layer in the event of a fire.

As for other materials, you will need the following “gentleman’s” set:

1. Glue on cement based for expanded polystyrene. For example, Dops Multifix. I will use the same compound to reinforce the foam on top for subsequent installation of the decorative coating.
2. Polyurethane adhesive for foam plastic. For example, Tytan Styro 753. I will use it for gluing to one of the walls of the bathroom (which is in contact with the street). It is cold, so the cement glue will dry poorly and hold unreliably.
3. Dowels with caps (“fungi”, “umbrellas”). Needed to secure the insulating layer on the surface of the walls. It is better to buy fittings with plastic cores so that metal screws do not become a conductor of cold from the street.
4. Reinforcing fiberglass alkali-resistant mesh. It will be used for reinforcement internal corners walls and the entire surface of the insulating layer of foam.
5. Waterproofing. This time I will use Ceresit CR-65. This material is sold in the form of a dry mixture and is used for the construction of hydraulic structures. Therefore, the resulting waterproof layer will certainly not allow water to pass through to the insulation and further to the neighbors.
6. Primer for concrete. You need to take a composition that contains antiseptic substances. The latter prevent the appearance of mold and mildew inside the insulating layer. As an example, I can give Dufa Grund Antiseptik.

Among the tools, you will really need a hammer drill (since you will have to drill large number holes), as well as buckets, spatulas and graters for applying a layer of plaster to the walls.

Work order

To insulate a bathtub you need to take only three steps, which are shown in the diagram below.

And now about each of them in more detail.

Stage 1 - Surface Preparation

As you understand, we will insulate the walls and ceiling. But first you need to prepare these surfaces for work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. I empty the bathroom of furniture and plumbing fixtures. This is precisely one of the disadvantages of internal insulation technology. To install foam plastic on the walls, you need to remove the bathtub, sink, washing machine and so on. Therefore, thermal insulation measures are usually timed to general repairs in the plumbing block.

1. I'm deleting decorative finishing from the walls. In my case, all surfaces were tiled. So I knocked down all the parts using a hammer drill with a chisel attached to it. Moreover, you need to get rid of not only the tile itself, but also the remnants in order to get as smooth a surface as possible. In the case of other materials, you can proceed as follows:
   • The wallpaper is simply torn off the walls, after which the surfaces are protected with a spatula from remnants of the backing and glue.
   • You don’t have to remove all the paint, but get rid of only those areas that are already swollen or crumbling. The rest of the layer will not interfere with the work.

1. I carry out repairs to wall and floor surfaces. Before laying the insulation, you must make sure that the surfaces do not have cracks, potholes and bumps that could interfere with the adhesion of the foam or cause moisture to penetrate into the thickness of the insulating layer:
   • Small and shallow cracks need to be slightly widened with a grinder with a diamond disc installed on it, and then filled with polyurethane foam. After hardening, the latter is cut flush with the wall or floor.
   • Large recesses are cleaned with a chisel to get rid of crumbling areas, and then filled with cement repair mortar. If reinforcement is visible in the recess, then before repair it must be cleaned with sandpaper and coated with a rust converter.

1. I clean the surface from dust. It is best to do this with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove even the smallest particles of dust and mineral chips.

1. I prime the walls and floor. The composition I have chosen not only improves adhesion, removes dust from concrete slabs and gives them antiseptic properties, but also kills all microorganisms that already live on the surface of the slabs. Priming is carried out according to the following scheme:
   • First, using a roller (or, to speed up the process, a sprayer), the walls are coated with a primer in one layer.
   • After this, you need to give the composition time to dry. This usually takes about 4 hours.
   • Then the walls of the room are coated with primer again. After the second layer has dried, you can proceed to gluing the foam.

1. I'm laying out the electrical wiring. If you need to lay electrical cables and install sockets in the bathroom, you need to do it now. For installation, polyvinyl chloride cable channels are used, which in the event of a short circuit will prevent the insulating layer from igniting. And the polystyrene foam itself is easy to process, so you can then hollow out recesses in it to mask these cable channels.

Stage 2 - Installation of thermal insulation on the walls

Let's start insulating the walls. I’ll say right away that although the gluing process seems simple, it contains many small nuances on which the quality of the work performed ultimately depends.

The technology is as follows:

1. I hit the zero mark. To do this, you need to mark a mark at a height of about 52-55 cm from the floor, following which, using a water or laser level, draw a strictly horizontal line over the entire surface of the walls in the bathroom, which will serve as a guide for gluing the foam sheets.

1. If necessary, I carry out marking and cutting of foam sheets. The material is easy to cut using stationery knife, hacksaws with sharp teeth or hot metal wire. Let me point out a few nuances:
   • When cutting, maintain the dimensions very precisely so that when gluing, the seams between the individual sheets are minimal.
   • To ensure a tighter fit of the sheets, after sawing off the part, you need to process its end using a foam grater.

1. I am preparing a reinforcing composition for polystyrene foam. For this, a dry construction mixture is used, to which water is added, after which everything is stirred and brought to homogeneity using a mixer connected to a drill. In this matter, it is important to pay attention to several points:
   • After mixing, it is necessary to leave the glue for 5-7 minutes so that the additives and plasticizers included in its composition are activated. After this, the solution should be mixed again.
   • Prepare only the amount of glue that you can use in about 40 minutes. After this time, the performance properties of the solution deteriorate.
   • To prepare a new portion, you need to use a clean container (or wash the old one well). Otherwise, frozen lumps from the previous batch can spoil the glue and interfere with the correct alignment of the foam boards.

1. I spread glue on the first sheet of foam. The glue application pattern will be the same for all sheets, but it has several features that are important to know:
   • If the wall is smooth and there is no need to level it with polystyrene foam, then glue is applied to the entire surface of the foam plastic, after which it is spread with a notched trowel.
   • If you need to level the wall, then apply the glue with a roller along the edge (at a distance of 5 cm from it with small gaps for air to escape), after which several lumps are placed in the middle so that at least 40% of the area of ​​the material is covered with the composition.
   • Polyurethane glue from a balloon is applied in the form of separate lumps (about 6-8 pieces), distributed over the entire surface of the insulation.
   • If the foam sheets are joined at an angle of 90 degrees, then the area that is adjacent to another part of the insulation does not need to be coated with glue.
   • During work, you should carefully ensure that the cement-based adhesive does not get into the seams between the sheets of expanded polystyrene.

1. I secure the first sheet of foam. You need to start working from the corner above the line zero level(painted in advance on the walls). The system is like this:
   • You need to fix the part on the wall, and then level it vertically, controlling the location using a water level.
   • After this, further strengthen it with four umbrella dowels. You need to drill a hole in the wall directly through the foam, then insert the dowel, but do not hammer in the core, but only insert it all the way, otherwise you can knock down the level of the foam sheet.

1. I glue the remaining sheets on top from the zero mark. When applying glue and leveling, you need to act as indicated in the previous two paragraphs, as for the remaining nuances:
   • When joining two adjacent sheets of the same row, it is necessary to ensure that the parts fit as tightly as possible to each other. If necessary, you can use a polystyrene foam grater.
   • When installing the top row on the bottom, you need to make sure that the seams of the material run apart, that is, the seam of the top is separated from the seam of the bottom row of foam at a distance of at least 20 cm.
   • In the corners, the foam should be connected according to the principle of a ladder. That is, first a sheet comes from one wall, then from the other, and so on in steps to the very top.
   • If the wall has too much vertical difference, a polystyrene foam pad of suitable thickness can be glued under the bottom of the foam sheet.
   • All sheets of foam plastic are also additionally reinforced with four dowels, the cores of which are not hammered in completely until the glue has completely dried.
   • To glue sheets to a cold wall that protects the bathtub from the street, you need to use polyurethane glue if the work is carried out in the cold season.

1. I glue the sheets from below the zero line. It is important to secure them correctly, for which pads are used. bottom part details. If necessary, trim the insulation using a knife or saw.
2. I fill the foam seams with polyurethane glue. You need to pour the foam so that it fills the entire space between the foam sheets, and not just at the top of the seam.
3. I secure the insulation sheets with dowels. This must be done after all the glue has dried. First, the cores of those parts that were already inserted during gluing are completely hammered. Then the number of dowels increases to 6-8 per sheet. It is also advisable to drive fasteners into the seams between the sheets to strengthen them too. The dowel must be driven in so that its head is submerged and does not rise above the surface of the polystyrene foam.

1. I perform final cleaning of the foam surface. To do this, use a polystyrene foam grater. With its help, it is necessary to especially carefully process the foam seams (if there are small differences in height) and outer corners (if any).

1. I reinforce the outer corners of foam plastic. In the bathroom where I was renovating, the wall has a complex shape, so the foam insulation formed two external corners. They need to be reinforced using a corner with a mesh. This is done like this:
   • A small layer of reinforcing compound (glue that was used to glue the insulation) is applied to both sides of the corner.
   • A corner is applied, after which, using a plaster float, it is pressed into the insulation.
   • Then a little more solution is applied on top with a spatula, which is distributed in the direction from the corner outward.

1. I reinforce the surface of the foam with mesh. A pre-purchased fiberglass alkali-resistant mesh is used:
   • A reinforcing compound is applied to the surface of the insulating layer.
   • A mesh is glued onto it, after which it is pressed into the solution with a grater.
   • A little more composition is applied on top, which is then carefully leveled.
   • At the junction of individual sheets and in the corners of the room, the mesh should be overlapped.
   • When leveling, use the blunt side of a plastering float to avoid tearing the reinforcing layer.

1. I complete the final plastering of the wall surface with cement mortar. Further technology depends on the chosen finishing material. If you are going to glue tiles, then you do not need to bring the surface to perfection, but for painting and wallpaper you will have to carefully plaster, putty and sand everything.

The last stage of wall insulation is their decorative finishing.

Stage 3 - Floor insulation

To insulate the floor, instead of polystyrene foam, I took extruded polystyrene foam trademark penoplex. This material has a high density, so it better tolerates mechanical loads exerted on the insulated surface.

I will describe the work scheme briefly so as not to abuse your attention:

1. A polyethylene film is laid on the prepared floor. It plays the role of a waterproofing membrane and is used to prevent penoplex from getting wet.
2. Sheets of thermal insulation material are laid. You can lay one layer 5 cm thick or two layers 10 cm thick. In my case, 5 is enough, since below there is also a living space and from severe winter cold no need to defend yourself. The styling features are:
   • The material is simply laid out on the floor without fastening. There will be a cement screed on top that will firmly hold the insulation sheets in place.
   • The ends of the penoplex are designed in the form of a step, which allows you to tightly connect the parts and avoid the appearance of cold bridges.
   • When laying the material in two layers, you need to ensure that the seams of the bottom row are at intervals with the joints of the top row.

1. Reinforcing mesh is installed. What is needed here is not fiberglass, but metal mesh from steel wire with a cell size of 10 cm. The laying technique is as follows:
   • Individual sheets of mesh are laid out on polystyrene foam in such a way that they overlap each other at a distance of one cell.
   • Plastic legs are placed under the mesh, which will hold it at a height of 2-3 cm above the level of the insulating material.
   • The sheets of the reinforcing layer are connected to each other using steel wire.

1. Beacons are being installed. For this purpose special aluminum parts and brackets. Beacons need to be aligned with water or laser level to achieve a perfectly flat floor in the end.
2. The screed is being poured. A solution is prepared, poured into the space between the beacons and leveled with an aluminum rule.

Some nuances of bath insulation

I’ll tell you how to insulate a steel bathtub:

• the plumbing fixture is turned over and installed on cardboard, foam rubber or other lining that will prevent scratches on the enamel layer;
• the legs are glued or otherwise secured to the bathtub;
• a layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the surface of the product, which then hardens;
• in the same way, you need to apply several layers of insulation (the more, the more effective the insulation);
• if necessary, the foam can be reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

Resume

Now you know how to insulate a bathroom in an apartment. If you are wondering how to thermally insulate this room in wooden house, watch the video in this article, where the mentioned technology is described in great detail.

What do you think about how to insulate acrylic bath? Should I use polyurethane foam for this or is it better to prefer other thermal insulators? You can post your answers in the comments to the material.

August 22, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!