If in the past tiles were laid on a regular mortar of cement and sand, now there is an incredible amount of tile adhesives in construction stores. What glue to choose?

What should be the composition of tile adhesive?

Let's look at these questions in more detail.

Types of compositions

Two main groups can be distinguished:

1. ready-made mixtures in the form of pastes;
2. dry compounds.

Ready-made paste adhesives are sold in small buckets. They are characterized by homogeneous mass, low consumption and high adhesion. Such adhesives can cope with difficult areas and substrates, but the high cost forces the use of pastes sparingly and selectively.

Dry compounds are cement-based adhesives, sold in bags of various packaging. Before use, you need to prepare the tile adhesive according to the instructions.

Depending on the content, adhesives are divided into groups:

1. cement-based;
2. epoxy;
3. dispersive;
4. polyurethane.

Cement based

Sold in bags in the form of dry powders. Cement-based adhesives consist of Portland cement, sand and modifying additives. Additives make up less than 5% of the total composition.

Sand in the tile adhesive adds strength to the solution and reduces its weight, and, consequently, the load on the base.

The modifiers included in the tile adhesive determine the properties that the adhesive composition has in its finished form.

• Plasticizers - the solution has greater fluidity and plasticity.
• Anti-frost additives - tile adhesive will be frost-resistant, used for outdoor work.
• Water-retaining additives - the solution will retain moisture longer and have greater strength. The concept of heat resistance of glue is based on these indicators.

Cement compositions are divided into two types:

1. thin layer adhesives;
2. thick-layer adhesives.

Thin-layer mixtures are used for laying on the base with differences of up to 1 cm.

Thick-layer adhesives are used to level minor differences - from 1 to 3 cm. So you don’t have to plaster the walls, but level them with tile adhesive. Consists of cement and polymer additives that increase the strength of the composition.

Two-component epoxy compounds

Epoxy adhesives consist of epoxy resin and a hardener. The two components must be mixed before use. The resin itself does not have the strength and required fluidity; the hardener will give it the required strength and pressure resistance.

The advantage of the material is that epoxy adhesives have high adhesion; they glue ceramics to a wooden or metal base.

Variances

Sold in the form of a ready-made paste, they have a homogeneous mass and thick consistency. Must be mixed before use. Can be used for both wall and floor tiles, which is laid on smooth concrete, plastered and plasterboard bases.

They consist of an aqueous dispersion based on acrylic, latex or polyvinyl acetate.

Polyurethane compounds

They are distinguished by their elasticity; they glue any two types of surface, for example, metal and glass. Suitable for working with ceramics in difficult areas. There are one-component and two-component polyurethane-based mixtures.

They also provide additional waterproofing.

The one-component composition acquires hardness due to exposure to ambient moisture, which enters chemical reaction with the components of the solution.

In the second case, you need to mix the components of the solution in the correct ratio specified in the instructions. Then the glue will be strong, elastic and resistant to temperature changes.

note

Please note: Some polyurethane compounds expand after curing. They are not suitable for laying ceramics.

In construction, cement tile adhesives are most often used, optimal ratio prices and characteristics explain the popularity of the material. Cement mortars have a higher consumption, but the low cost makes it possible to have such a consumption.

Technical characteristics of the solution during and after working with it

During operation, a high-quality tile mortar should be:

• elastic, that is, it fits well on different surfaces;
• have a long lifespan, which will allow you to work with the mixture for a sufficient time after preparation;
• with high adhesion, which will ensure reliable fixation of the cladding to the base;
• with low fluidity, which will prevent the tiles from slipping when laying them on the walls.

After laying and setting, the mortar must be strong, resistant to compression of the cladding and attempts to shift.

According to GOST, the strength of a frozen mortar is measured in MPa; for universal compositions the figure is 10 units, and for elastic mixtures and products labeled “For reliable fixation” - 15 MPa.

1. frost-resistant;
2. moisture resistant;
3. heat resistant;
4. elastic – able to withstand temperature deformations of the tile.

The technical indicators listed above depend on the type of mixture and manufacturer.

Types of glue depending on purpose

Ceresit brand products have proven themselves well; the manufacturer has provided a line of tile adhesives of all the types listed above.

Another popular and popular brand was Knauf. The products are characterized by low consumption, excellent adhesive properties, and durability.

Consumption and drying time

The composition consumption is indicated on the packaging with the material. Consumption may be more or less depending on weather conditions, curvature of the base, professional skills and type of tile.

The packaging also contains similar professional terms:

• Adjustment time – tiles can be adjusted after laying on the mortar;
• Open working time - the time from applying the solution to the base until it sets; Long operating time allows you to apply glue over a large area at once.
• Suitability time for work - from preparing the solution to setting.

For urgent work, choose a material with minimal adjustment time, but for a novice master, this is just the thing.

Storage and preparation of cement tile adhesive

• When purchasing, look at the expiration date of the material and the date of manufacture.
• You can store tile adhesive in a dry room or outdoors in warm weather and under a canopy.
  

  note

  If bags are stored in a humid environment, the powder will absorb moisture, which will impair adhesion, ductility and other characteristics of the solution.

• You can prepare the tile solution manually or with a construction mixer. Using a mixer, you can achieve a homogeneous mass without lumps and the desired consistency.
• You can work with the solution at temperatures from +5 to +

How to prepare tile mortar with your own hands

Previously, there were no specialized tile adhesives, so tile mortar was prepared by hand. You can try today, if strict cost savings are at the forefront.

The tile solution consists of several components:

1. fine sand;
2. cement;
3. plasticizers from improvised means - PVA glue, liquid soap;
4. required amount of water – clean water, without dirt, debris, or foreign objects.

The ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3. After mixing the components, 0.5 kg of PVA or wallpaper glue is added to the finished solution. Liquid soap will serve as a plasticizer; it will give the solution fluidity and plasticity.

The finished solution should be well mixed, homogeneous and thick in consistency.

Laying tiles on a homemade tile mortar is justified if you plan to tile rooms where it is not required high quality work. For example, finishing garages, sheds, outbuildings. If you have all the ingredients on hand, why not make your own glue?

Porcelain tiles have a high density, so backside tiles do not absorb moisture well. Due to this, not all adhesives are suitable for working with porcelain stoneware, and DIY solutions are definitely excluded.

Bottom line
The choice of tile adhesive depends on the type of room, type of tile and installation features. There is no universal glue that is suitable for all occasions.

One of the types finishing materials is tile adhesive, but despite its name, it is used not only for fixing tiles. This adhesive composition perfectly glues many materials.

This glue has been known since Soviet times, then it had only one composition, but now there are many different types of it on sale, which are used for attaching any facing materials.

Types and composition of the base

Previously, it was used as a cement-sand composition, to which oil paint, PVA glue or adhesive paste could be added. Then solutions with adhesive additives appeared on sale, which had good adhesion and were capable of excellent bonding. concrete walls with the necessary cladding.

Nowadays you can find such a variety of tile adhesives in construction stores that it can lead to confusion when choosing them. Each type has its own composition, which is intended for a specific area of ​​application.

Its characteristics are influenced by additives from mixed chemical compounds, it can be:

• antifreeze additives;
• polymer modifiers;
• water-retaining inclusions.

The article describes how to use

And the glue base contains cement and sand in certain proportions. That is, in principle, the tile composition is a mineral-polymer composite of complex compounds. IN percentage The tile mortar consists of 95% dry mixture, and the rest is taken up by various additives.

Types of tile adhesive

There are two groups:

The latter are sold in plastic buckets, which have different volumes. This is a completely ready-to-use adhesive. After purchasing it, you can immediately start gluing the facing material; just stir the contents of the plastic container once before doing this.

Before using the glue, it must be properly diluted. To do this, you need to study the instructions and find out the standards for obtaining the desired consistency. The result of the work will depend on the correct dilution of the composition.

What characteristics does it have?

Its purchase depends on its properties and purpose, so you need to know what technical characteristics the desired composition has. If the tile adhesive mortar is based on cement, then to work with it the following requirements must be met:

• the temperature of the work carried out should be in the range from +5 to 30 0 C;
• adhere to the specified amount of water for diluting the composition. On average, 25 kg of dry component should account for 5 liters of liquid;
• The thickness of the recommended application layer should be maintained. It usually ranges from 3 to 15 mm;
• The pot life of tile adhesive is 3 hours. After the adhesive solution has been diluted, it must be used within 20 minutes. After the tile is glued with it, it can be adjusted for another ten minutes. ? The composition hardens completely within a day;
• Some types of adhesives have frost resistance of 35 cycles.

Scope of application and its cost

Its price is influenced by the properties and quality of the additives. Manufacturers building materials try to diversify their product range, and every year they release new types of tile adhesives for various surfaces. Here are some varieties brands and their products, indicating prices and areas of their application.

Manufacturer and product	What is glue used for?	Packaging, kg	Price, in rub.
CERESIT CM 9	Applicable only to interior surfaces. They are excellent for fixing ceramic tiles up to 30 cm in size.	25	255
Ceresit SM 11 PLUS	it can be used both outside and inside buildings. It adheres well to stone and ceramic tiles, the size of which can be up to 40 cm. It has high moisture resistance, so it is often used for bathrooms and toilets.	-//-	280
CERESIT CM 17	fastens all types of mineral tiles, except marble. Suitable for interior and exterior walls and floors	-//-	250
Baumacol Basic	for working with ceramic tiles located indoors	-//-	200
Knauf-Schnellkleber	used for tiles, stone tiles and mosaics. Works well on both exterior and interior surfaces of homes	-//-	490
KNAUF-Marmorkleber	for cladding with marble and stone, glass mosaic and tiles	-//-	425
LITOKOL K17	it is used for fastening stone, marble, mosaics and ceramics. It can be used for exterior and interior decoration	from 2.5 to 25	300
GOVERNERSStandard	used for working with mosaics and tiles indoors

As has already become clear from the tabular data, tile adhesive is designed for use both inside and outside housing. It helps solve many design problems and is used in any room.

What is the price and specifications Eunice tile adhesive can be found by reading this

Depending on its properties it can be used:

• in bathrooms and inside swimming pools (waterproof);
• for floors as insulation;
• for decorating stoves and fireplaces (heat-resistant);
• in any room for fixing floor tiles (leveler).

The video describes the composition of tile adhesive:

It describes which tile adhesive is best suited for porcelain tiles.

How to make tile adhesive with your own hands

Cooking proportions

How to do it yourself? There are times when you urgently need to get a new portion of the adhesive base, but hardware stores are already closed, then it’s worth using step by step instructions preparing tile adhesive at home. First you need to prepare its components: cement (M-400), sand and wallpaper glue (PVA may also be suitable). The process will require clean tools and a container. So, let's get started, you need to:

1. Dilute wallpaper glue with water. The proportions are taken from the instructions indicated on the packaging of the adhesive ingredient.
2. Take sand, its fractions should be about 2 mm. Before use, it is better to sift this component so that it is clean.
3. After this it is mixed with cement. Proportions: for one liter of the latter there should be 3 liters of sand filler. If desired, you can add a concrete plasticizer.
4. Adding wallpaper glue must be done in portions. First, pour in 200 ml; if the mixture has not yet reached the state of rich sour cream, then you can bring it to it by pouring another portion of glue.
5. After this, you should try to glue the tiles with the resulting mixture.. If it is well applied to its surface, and the material fixed to the wall can be moved, then the adhesive is made correctly. If there are deviations from the desired state, the composition can be adjusted by adding water or dry ingredients.

Some craftsmen, not having wallpaper glue on hand, make homemade compositions without it. In principle, in this solution it is necessary only to be able to straighten the tiles during the fastening process.

The video shows the use of tile adhesive:

Using commercially available tile adhesive compositions, you can glue completely different materials to almost any surface of your home. Naturally, this can be done at home, but the purchased option eliminates the possibility of getting an unsuitable glue consistency, since it has an exact recipe and dosage of its components.

PlitKurs.ru Plitkurs - a course on laying tiles with your own hands for 999 rubles. Is it possible to add pva to tile adhesive?

What can you add to tile adhesive? - PlitKurs.ru Plitkurs - course on laying tiles with your own hands for 999 rubles

You can add whatever you want if you wish. It just doesn't make sense.

Tile adhesive is a completely complete, self-sufficient product. There is no need to add anything to it. Except for water, and then sometimes when it’s a little dry.

In practice, there was a case of adding sand to tile adhesive. Not by me. add sand to the tile adhesive Well, I don’t know, this will at least reduce the grade of the solution, reduce its strength and adhesion. In addition, the sand is coarse-grained in comparison. with grinding used in the manufacture of tile adhesive and a grain of sand can interfere with laying tiles on the walls. However, if the layer is thick, then they will not interfere. Sand was added by builders who laid the tiles incorrectly, so we will not consider this option. Highly not recommended. You don't want the tiles to fall off, do you?

http://otvet.mail.ru/question/92642581

One day the tile adhesive was diluted with cement and more pva was added just in case, 8 years later there was a rumble in the middle of the night, as if a cupboard with dishes had fallen and everything in it was smashed to pieces - I didn’t even get out of bed, because I couldn’t understand what had happened. . In the morning it turned out that one wall of tiles had collapsed into the bathroom and was cracked. Upon inspection, I discovered that 70% of the remaining tiles had also come off. The remnants of homemade tile miracle glue after spraying with water were easily removed with a chisel. So, I recommend that you don’t be weird and buy more tile adhesive :).

I haven't tried it. In general, the picture is typical for tiles laid on cement-sand mortar. Alternatively, the reason for the tiles falling off was something else, not the tile adhesive with PVA and cement additives, but, for example, an improperly prepared surface for laying or shrinkage of the house. However, you need to look at what the reason is, and it’s better not to look and guess, follow the installation technology and not add anything to the glue. The manufacturer also tests his glue for adhesion, strength, etc.

Here is another version, but you need to check this version too http://forum.vashdom.ru/threads/klej-ne-derzhit-plitku.29241/

And my husband about 10 years ago added pva to glue and said that this can be done without waterproofing. There were no problems. And this year my son was tired of knocking down tiles.

About PVA separately. PVA modifies the solution. CPR becomes silkier and more comfortable to work with, and also allows you to make thin layers. It is unknown how PVA will react with additives in tile adhesive.

This way you don’t need to add anything to the tile adhesive.

But the reverse situation of adding tile adhesive to the solution can be useful for some tasks. But that's a different story.

In order not to invent anything and not to violate the technology, buy Plitkurs - an online course on laying tiles with your own hands http://plitkurs.ru/plitkurs

plitkurs.ru

preparing the finished glue and preparing your own

How to dilute tile adhesive? This question will be faced by anyone who wants to lay tiles in their home themselves, without resorting to the help of specialists. To understand this issue, you need to decide on the type of glue that will be used in the work.

What is this article about?

Tile adhesive composition

Depending on the composition of the tile adhesive, it is divided into: epoxy, cement, dispersion, polyurethane and liquid nails.

Epoxy - made on the basis of epoxy resins. It has very high performance qualities, is waterproof, heat-resistant, and can withstand high loads. Recommended for laying tiles in public institutions, enterprise workshops, etc. Suitable for application on uneven surfaces, wood, plywood, polyvinyl chloride, metal, cement screed, concrete, etc. Epoxy adhesive is two-component and consists of a resin and a hardener.

Cement is a relatively cheap adhesive based on cement, sand and polymer substances. The properties of cement adhesive vary depending on the type and amount of the polymer component. This type glue can be used in rooms with high humidity(bath, sauna, etc.). Sold as a dry one-component mixture, it requires mixing with water before use.

Dispersive is a dispersion of a polymer resin in water. It is a non-toxic and environmentally friendly product, has high adhesion and ductility. Designed for gluing ceramic, polystyrene foam and acoustic tiles. Used for application to plastic, wood, metal, drywall. The process of gluing tiles occurs due to the sticking together of polymer particles during the evaporation of water. Dispersion adhesives based on acrylates are widely used. They are available in ready-to-use form.

Polyurethane - has high adhesion. Used for laying ceramic and parquet tiles. It is highly resistant to temperature changes, moisture, mineral oils and gasoline. When dried, it increases slightly in size, which helps fill empty cavities between the tile and the base. Available in two forms: two-component and one-component. The two-component adhesive contains a monomer (isocyanate) and a hardener (polyol). The polymerization reaction of isocyanate occurs after mixing it with a polyol, and in a single-component one due to the interaction of the urethane group of the monomer with air moisture.

Liquid nails - the glue contains synthetic rubber (neopreon or polyacrylate), polymers and fillers (clay, chalk, titanium dioxide). Acetone and toluene are used as solvents, which gives the product a sharp and bad smell. It allows you to glue loose objects.

Liquid nails based on neoprene have high performance characteristics, but are also very toxic. Water-based liquid nails, based on polyacrylates, are environmentally friendly, but are sensitive to moisture and are only suitable for gluing porous materials such as tiles.

Performance characteristics liquid nails are different and depend on their composition. The product is available in sealed packaging in a ready-to-use form.

Preparing glue for work

Epoxy adhesive

If epoxy glue is purchased from a trusted manufacturer, then its preparation will not cause difficulties. All components will be packaged in separate packaging and all you have to do is mix them; the instructions will help you do this. To properly dilute the glue, remember that you need to add dry (hardener) to liquid ( epoxy resin) with constant stirring. You need to start working with this glue immediately after preparing it.

Cement glue

In order to properly dilute tile adhesive, you will need an empty container and construction mixer. 2/3 of the required amount of water to prepare the solution is poured into the container. Then, with continuous stirring, gradually add a dry mixture of cement glue, making sure that the solution is homogeneous, without lumps. After all the dry mixture has been mixed with water, it is necessary to add the remaining liquid and bring the solution to working condition. Let the resulting solution sit for 10-20 minutes so that all the polymer particles can swell, after which the glue is considered ready. It is recommended to prepare the adhesive solution at a temperature of 15-250C.

Dispersion glue

Despite the fact that dispersion adhesive is sold in a ready-to-use form, it may be necessary to dilute the tile adhesive with water to adjust the viscosity. To do this, you need to pour it from the factory container into a large container and begin to gradually add water, not forgetting to mix. After obtaining the required viscosity, you can begin to work. Glue diluted in the required quantities of water will not lose its characteristics.

Two-component polyurethane adhesive

As with epoxy glue, you must strictly adhere to the manufacturer's instructions. The adhesive components are usually marked with the Latin letters A (monomer) and B (hardener). They must be mixed in the proportions specified by the manufacturer.

Polyurethane glue is not stored for a long time and should be used immediately for its intended purpose.

How to prepare tile adhesive at home?

To prepare tile adhesive at home you will need sand, cement, and glue (PVA or CMC).

Cement must be mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:3, and the resulting mixture must be diluted with water. While stirring, add PVA or CMC to the cement mortar in 200 ml portions. The end of the preparation of tile adhesive is the receipt of a plastic mass.

Attention! Before using CMC, it must be prepared. How to do this correctly should be looked at in the instructions.

izplitki.com

What to add to tile adhesive

How to make strong concrete so that it looks like stone? Can you add alibastra? or tile adhesive?

• 1. Do not mix good concrete by hand (unless, of course, it is to fill a hole in the corner).

2. Water-cement ratio (ratio of the mass of mixing water to the mass of cement) = 0.4,

but for workability, it is MANDATORY to add a plasticizer (according to the instructions for the plasticizer).

3. keep the concrete damp (cover with polyethylene, periodically removing and spraying it with water; there should be droplets on the polyethylene on the side of the concrete) for a week.

Approximate recipes for concrete M-400 on cement M-400, in quantity - 1 m3.

1. Cement (C) - 560kg, Sand (P) -600kg, Crushed stone (20mm) (Sh) - 1075kg, Water (W) -225kg, Plasticizer according to instructions.

2. Ts-525kg, P-585kg, Shch (40mm) - 1080kg, V-210kg, Plasticizer.

Find out the bulk density of these materials using a search engine.

The question is why do you need such concrete? decided to build a skyscraper at the dacha?

concrete M400 is used for the construction of hydraulic structures (dams, hydroelectric power stations), reinforced concrete products according to special requirements and bank storage facilities. In low-rise and individual construction, M400 concrete is inappropriate to use, it is too expensive.

• I don’t recommend interfering with anything at all.
• 500 grade Portland cement and coarse gravel type filler.

Be sure to maintain the ratio of water and cement.

• cement - must be of high quality

the reinforcement must be correctly positioned and woven (depending on the intended load)

• Add liquid glass. Due to this, there will be no dusty surface when it hardens. But with an excess of liquid glass, concrete becomes brittle. And you need to find out the dosage somewhere else. I don’t remember Source: .
• You just need to use high grade cement. Portland cement grade 500 - 600 D-0. Your concrete will be even stronger than stone.
• There is no need to add anything, mix the solution at the rate of 1 part cement to 2 parts sand, when it starts to harden, do not let it dry out by sprinkling with water. The higher the grade of cement, the stronger the solution will be. Add crushed stone as usual.
• 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 7 to 9 parts filler (crushed stone, stone, broken brick), you can really add liquid glass or PVA glue or a plasticizer, it gives plasticity to the solution with fewer microcracks, but in a small amount, literally 1/10 of a part of cement. Throw M-400 cement. I don’t recommend using more cement, the concrete will crack more strongly, less more brittle, this proportion can be said to be optimal, the main thing is that the cement itself is of high quality
• Just like they do at the factory! Choose the right filler, the right brand, in the right proportions, choose cement in the right proportions and the right brand, the proportions are specified based on the characteristics of the components, the amount of water needed is determined, and mixed! Why did you think that adding something else would be better??? In reality, it can be better from FIBER, the strength improves significantly in any concrete, especially if the fibers have a strength similar to concrete or steel, if the fibers have a lower strength, then not all parameters are improved, but only certain ones, I mean different strengths.

P.S. Concrete is not cement! Choosing AWESOME cement does not mean that the concrete will be great! If the filler is crappy, then the cool cement will be of no use!

• Add MB (concrete modifier). Depending on the type of concrete, up to 60 kg will be required. per 1 m3 of concrete. Very expensive. About 12-15 thousand per 1 ton.
• add PVA glue, just need to level it right away, otherwise you won’t be able to tear it off later
• 1.make sure the cement is fresh

2.mix in a ratio of 1 x 2.5 with coarse sand (PGS-gravel)

3.stir with water until creamy (25%)

3. pour into the mold at a temperature of +15-25 degrees Celsius

4. wait 28 days....(before this, moisten the surface every 3 days)

• Standard recipe

1 part cement

2 parts sand

4 parts crushed stone

no more than 0.5 parts of water

plasticizer for concrete 0.5 - 1% by weight of cement

Mix everything very well in a concrete mixer (not in a trough with a shovel!!!)

All parts by weight

AND DON'T THINK OF ADDING ALABASTER!!! or there's tile adhesive!

After pouring, cover with plastic wrap. And do not let the fill dry out for at least a week (water with water as soon as it starts to dry out)

• With the addition of *alibasters* you can speed up the setting of cement paste in concrete, but this alibastra will not add strength in any way. And if you pour it in a fair amount, you won’t have time to lay fresh concrete, I’m telling you for sure. I swear on my belly button! Tile adhesive is just glue. And in itself it is fragile. A piece of frozen glue can be crushed relatively easily with your fingers. Or the seam between the tiles can easily be scratched out with a chisel or knife. At home, you rarely need a concrete strength higher than 200. For information, the grade of concrete in terms of the strength of the foundation blocks on which 16-story buildings stand is mostly 100. It’s a different matter if the concrete is used in street conditions. What is needed here is mainly the frost resistance of concrete. For some reason, it seems that you are puzzled by the blind area....

Let's consider the use of tile adhesive using the example of dry adhesive mixtures Atlas, Eunice and other similar ones. Three liters of water are poured into a bucket with a capacity of 10-15 liters. Then glue is poured to the level of two thirds of the bucket. (It is recommended to wear a respirator to protect the respiratory tract from dry mixtures.) Using an electric drill at low speed (800 rpm) with a whisk attachment, mix the mixture. While mixing, add water little by little until the mixture resembles sour cream.

If the tiles will be applied to unreliable, risky places, then you need to add PVA glue to the created adhesive mass, in the proportion of half a liter per ten liters of the finished mixture. PVA must first be dissolved in water, then mixed. It is allowed to add dry cement (2-3 kg per 10 liters of finished adhesive mass) if the thickness of the adhesive composition applied to the wall exceeds 0.5 mm. Due to this, the adhesive mass becomes more viscous and a certain saving in expensive tile adhesive is achieved. Under no circumstances should alabaster be added. Its presence reduces the adhesive properties and makes the adhesive solution more susceptible to moisture. An adhesive mixture that is too thin makes it difficult to level the position, the tiles sink and become more dirty. And if the mortar is too thick, the tile does not adhere well, voids form, you need to press harder, since the adhesion strength decreases. Over time, the adhesive solution thickens, so to maintain working viscosity, it must be stirred periodically, adding water. The remaining adhesive on the walls must be removed and can be reused by first mixing it with the adhesive solution.

Tile adhesive, its properties, application

At modern finishing indoors, tile adhesive is often used. Modern adhesive materials, in quality and variety, are much superior to old ones. And although there is no universal glue, using which it would be possible to glue any materials, but when correct selection However, most materials can be glued together.

1. Ceramic tile adhesive
2. Approximate glue consumption
3. Drying time
4. Reasons for unsuccessful gluing
5. Polymer based grout
6. Cement grouts
7. Grout color

Ceramic tile adhesive

Modern manufacturers produce adhesive for ceramic tiles, both in powder form and in finished form, and some types perform a double function: they serve as glue and grout.

When laying tiles on relatively smooth surfaces, use regular thin-layer adhesive. But there are also adhesives, the use of which allows you to lay tiles on rough surfaces. uneven surfaces.

For rooms with high humidity (kitchens and bathrooms), waterproof types of adhesives are used; epoxy compounds prevent the formation of mold and help fight microbes.

Ceramic floor tiles are usually installed using a cement-based tile adhesive. Sometimes, fat stone tiles, is laid on a sand-cement mortar to which the PVA adhesive additive is mixed.

Composition of modern tile adhesive

The composition of modern tile adhesive includes a cement-binding filler and modifying additives; without them, a high-quality product is in modern times not possible.

Depending on what tile the adhesive is intended for, the additives also change. Light tiles are attached to a cement-sand mixture.

But modern manufacturers have developed a very wide range: porcelain tiles, a natural stone, fake diamond and other dense and heavy materials, which are practically impossible to fix without the use of special additives, tile adhesives “Yunis 2000” and “Yunis granite” are widely used.

Scope of application of tile adhesive

Tile adhesive is available only for interior work or for indoor and outdoor. Because basically, almost everything tile adhesives Cement-based, they can be used in damp areas without restrictions.

But if, during finishing, a complex combination of different types of tiles is used (ceramic granite, mosaic, tile), then a different adhesive is selected for each type of material.

Polymer components of adhesive compositions

Each manufacturer strictly protects the production recipe and has its own secrets. But the main binder in all adhesive compositions is the polymer component.

Most polymers are moisture-resistant materials, but not weather-resistant. When the temperature drops, these products often lose their elastic properties and therefore are not recommended for use in freezing rooms; the price is much more expensive, so in such conditions it is better to use adhesive cement compositions. The weather-resistant glue is "Glue Plus" Prospectors.

Explanation of professional terms

Often, the instructions for using the adhesive composition contain professional terms, such as:

The serviceability time of a solution is the period of time measured from the moment water is added to the mixture until it begins to set. When the setting process occurs, a number of properties that are necessary are disrupted; therefore, it is necessary to prepare a certain amount of solution that can be used in a short time;

The open operating time is the period of time that runs from the moment the tile adhesive is applied to the surface until the adhesive composition sets, since it is not possible to properly fix the tile if an already set adhesive composition has been applied to it;

The permissible adjustment time is a short period of time during which, after fixing the tile, it is possible to change its position without violating the basic construction and technical properties.

Approximate glue consumption

Manufacturers usually indicate glue consumption on packaging or in regulatory documentation. Since too thick a layer of glue can lead to a defect, basically all adhesives are applied up to 5 mm thick.

First, the wall is leveled with plaster, only then the tiles are glued. The larger and heavier the tile, the thicker the layer of tile adhesive is applied.

Drying time

Regular standard tile adhesive dries within 24-48 hours and you can proceed to grouting the joints. But specialized adhesives are also produced for quick, urgent repairs; when used, the joints can be grouted within 3-4 hours.

Reasons for unsuccessful gluing

There may be several reasons:

Using heavy tiles and the wrong type of adhesive;

The installer did not press the tiles firmly enough;

Failure to comply with the laying technology, for example, the tiles are wetted with water, some of the water is absorbed into the tiles, when applying the adhesive solution, it is slightly washed out and this causes insufficient adhesion;

The open time of the adhesive composition is disrupted;

The tiles are dusty or deformed.

Polymer based grout

This material is not used often, as it is expensive; it is better to work with this grout by a professional. Such materials are convenient, flexible, they are denser, and do not accumulate large quantity fungal mold.

But these grouts are toxic and if some of the grout remains on the surface of the tile, it can only be removed mechanically, which leads to defects in the tile.

Cement grouts

Cement grouts are more porous and easier to work with, but the likelihood of bacteria and fungus growing is high; in wet areas such as a swimming pool, special additives must be added. You can prevent the appearance of mold by using grout with antifungal additives.

Method of applying cement grout

Before use, it is necessary to prepare a solution; for this, a dry mixture is added to the water, mixed, using a sponge or a special rubber spatula, and the seams between the tiles are filled.

Using a sponge moistened with water, the surface of the grout is “blurred”, resulting in a glossy surface of the joint. When the grout has set, remove the matte coating from the tile with a dry cloth.

Grout color

The color of the grout is chosen to match the tile; it can be bright, contrasting or calm, or match the color of the tile.

Often on the grout packaging there is transparent window through which you can see real color.

shpatlevko.ru

Do-it-yourself tile adhesive - advantages and preparation technology

By making glue with your own hands, you can significantly reduce cash costs during repair work. To reliably know how to make tile adhesive yourself, you need to look at several options for preparing the composition.

Initially, adhesive for attaching tiles to floor or wall surfaces was made exclusively at home. The solution included sand, which was mixed with cement to form glue.

Today, few people make tile adhesive with their own hands, because it can simply be purchased in specialized stores. But if the goal during renovation is to save as much as possible, then this method will help in achieving it.

This issue is especially relevant when the walls and floors in the room have a large area. Most often, such objects are garages and all buildings that have a large area.

Tile adhesive on the wall of the room

Features of homemade glue that can be prepared at home

The standard solution, which is intended for attaching tiles, has the following composition:

• cement,
• sand,
• water;
• PVA glue.

Sand is the main material. It plays the role of a filler, which must be selected exclusively in fine fractions. The diameter of one particle should not exceed 2 millimeters.

Note! When selecting the correct proportions, you should measure the material not in weight terms, but in volumetric terms. It is necessary to adhere to the ratio of 1:3. This means that if you take 2 buckets of cement, in accordance with the proportion you need to take 6 of the same measures of sand.

Due to the fact that the tile mortar has the properties of quickly hardening, it is usually prepared immediately before the tile laying stage. Self-made glue is used only for three hours.

When the cement and sand are already mixed, you need to add PVA glue. You need to pour 0.5 kg of glue into one bucket of solution. When the tiles are installed in a room where the humidity level is high, the solution may increase in volume.

Homemade tile adhesive on bathroom floor

Tile adhesive that has a thick consistency is considered to be properly prepared. You can tell if the mass is ready for use by its uniformity. The solution can be used when it looks like a uniformly stirred mixture.

Uniformity of tile composition

Traditional recipe for making glue

First you need to mix cement and sand so that a uniform mixture is formed. To obtain this consistency, you must adhere to the 1:3 ratio, as mentioned above. After this, clean water is added, and the mixture itself is thoroughly mixed.

Note! Tile adhesive, which is made by hand using this technology, has many more disadvantages compared to a purchased mixture.

It would be rational to use such a solution in the case of large-scale construction work, since it is not flexible and has a low strength index. But if you plan to lay tiles on the walls in the bathroom, then it would be advisable to buy a couple of bags of mortar.

The negative side of using such tile adhesive is the need to order all materials separately. Transporting each component separately will lead to unwanted financial costs.

Various home modifiers can also be added to the standard glue:

• liquid soap;
• Oil paint;
• sodium chloride;
• PVA glue.

Each additive can give the solution a unique property. For example, one is capable of retaining water, another serves as a plasticizer, and the third can increase adhesion.

An adhesive that is made for tiles made from tile and ceramic materials

It is quite possible to prepare the tile mortar yourself. At the same time, it will be possible to glue the facing surface onto it without fear.

This mixture should include:

• packaging of a foam plastic block 20x20x20 mm;
• acetone.

In order to glue the tile, you need to turn it over with its back side. Consequently, foam is placed at the corners of the tiles and acetone is dripped onto each edge. Further, the tile composition tends to set on its own. This process occurs after a few seconds, due to the fact that the foam dissolves under the influence of the substances used. Thus, the resulting solution tightly glues the tiles to the wall.

The technology for preparing a solution for gluing walls with ceramic tiles requires the same components as for tiles. But here it is necessary to prepare a special solution, which will have a ratio of 1:4 by volume. For more plastic properties of the solution, lime should be added to its composition. It should be no more than 1/5 of the total volume.

Note! It is strictly forbidden to add gypsum to the cement mortar, because the mixture will lose all its adhesive properties and the tile cladding will not adhere to the wall or floor.

Cement mortar, which is necessary for installing tile coverings on walls

What can replace tile mortar?

Before replacing the tile adhesive solution with mastic or construction adhesive, it is necessary to prepare the base of the walls and floors for the tiles.

It is better not to replace the tile mortar with anything, because it has all the necessary characteristics for high-quality gluing of the facing material.

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How to dilute tile adhesive: proportions, preparation

Photo from the site: gidpoplitke.ru

For many years the most popular facing material For excessively wet rooms, such as a kitchen or bathroom, ceramic tiles remain, whose unique performance qualities and properties allow us to talk about the durability of the repair for up to tens of years. Most often, professionals and true experts in their field do the laying of tiles, but the services of such a specialist will not be cheap, and they are not always available. Therefore, you can choose and buy tiles and finish the walls and floors yourself. Today in our article we will talk about how to properly dilute tile adhesive in order to achieve its maximum effectiveness.

Preparation of tile adhesive: types of compositions and their features

Photo from the site: gidpoplitke.ru

Before you begin to figure out how to dilute tile adhesive, you should first find out what types and types of similar substances can be purchased today in construction stores, how they differ from each other and what advantages they have. Modern manufacturers provide a truly extremely wide selection of products, which differ in composition, technology for diluting and laying tiles on it. In each specific case, it is necessary to apply special knowledge, but we will find out exactly what kind of knowledge.

Worth knowing

The most popular, both throughout the world and in our country, is the universal cement mixture, on which ceramic tiles are laid. Figuring out how to dilute the adhesive for this type of tile is not at all difficult; just dilute it with plain water and stir until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

• Universal cement mixtures most often consist of two components - Portland cement and washed river sand, but sometimes they also contain special additives in the form of plasticizers, dyes, latex, acrylic and other things.
• Thanks to the elements that strengthen the composition, a reinforced tile adhesive is obtained, which is also commercially available. Using this type of mixture, you can attach fairly weighty elements to the wall, large tiles and molded plaster ornaments.
• For super-damp rooms, for example, for walls, floors and ceilings in a bathroom or toilet, a moisture-resistant tile adhesive is produced that does not lose its properties even under extreme operating conditions. Moreover, mixtures of this type are most often diluted with special compounds, rather than with water, and with the help of them you can even lay tiles in the pool.
• Polymer adhesive mixtures are most often based on acrylic resins, silicone or other polymers that are susceptible to environmental influences, which is why they are most often used indoors. These types of glue are produced in buckets and jars in ready-made form, so there is no need to consider how to dilute tile adhesive and proportions.
• Modified special samples of tile adhesive are commercially available, but are not widely popular due to their high cost. They may have special properties, but are most often diluted with water according to the instructions on the package. Such adhesive may have heat resistance, resistance to low temperatures and other special qualities.

Photo from the site: Remtra.ru

In addition to industrial versions of tile adhesive, you can prepare a similar composition yourself; there is nothing supernatural here and there cannot be. For such glue you only need ordinary sand, Portland cement and water, and sometimes additional additives in the form of slaked lime. How to dilute tile adhesive homemade, you can watch a useful video just below, in the appropriate section. Moreover, it is worth understanding that all types of adhesive for laying tiles have almost the same dilution and mixing algorithm, so even a person who has never dealt with anything like this before can figure out the details.

How to mix tile adhesive: simplicity is ideal

Any beginner in the construction business can simplify their task as much as possible and not have to think about how to mix tile adhesive before finishing their own kitchen or bathroom. To do this, it will be enough to simply purchase in the store a one-component glue that is completely ready for use, which you simply need to chop with a suitable stick and can be used for its intended purpose. However, this scenario cannot be called cheap, and in some cases, ready-made polymer compositions are simply not suitable for a particular material.

Photo from the site: vidyotdelki.ru

And after the work is completed, the paste-like mixture remaining after the repair will simply have to be thrown away, since in a month or two, until it is useful and gathers dust in the pantry, it will dry out and completely lose its properties and qualities, and if necessary you will again need to think about how to make tile adhesive. Dry formulations can be stored for years in suitable conditions and can simply be diluted according to the instructions and used as needed.

Basic rules and features of breeding

Before you begin to thoroughly study the instructions on how to prepare tile adhesive, you should carefully study the rules and recommendations that experienced and professional tilers share with us. All of them are quite simple, but following them guarantees that you will ultimately obtain a high-quality texture, consistency and original properties of the adhesive compositions.

If you are going to thoroughly understand how to prepare tile adhesive, you should understand that the dry mixture itself, as well as the water, must be at the same temperature. In order to ensure such compliance, it is enough to simply leave the dry mass and water in an open container for several hours in the room where the walls or floors will then be tiled.

• Prepare a container in which you will mix the glue. If it has already been used for similar purposes, you need to wash it thoroughly, and also completely remove pieces of frozen solutions from its surfaces, otherwise it will harm you. further work. Moreover, this can not only disrupt the texture of the glue, but also affect its composition, and therefore its properties.
• To dilute the glue, use exclusively clean and soft water, and exactly the same one you take for drinking. A liquid for technical purposes may be saturated with alkalis or acids, as well as other components, which can adversely affect the quality of the resulting glue.
• If it seems to you that the glue is too thick or thin, although you diluted it according to the instructions, leave the mixture for five to ten minutes, then stir again, perhaps the consistency will be restored.
• Never add more liquid than indicated in the dilution manual; it is better to wait for the excess moisture to evaporate, constantly stirring the solution.

Photo from the site: sovetclub.ru

All safety recommendations refer to the use of respirators, not just gloves and safety glasses, when diluting glue. The thing is that dry mixtures can generate quite a lot of dust and particles of it will get into the lungs. This, of course, won’t do much harm, but it’s still worth being careful.

Guide: How to mix tile adhesive

Everything is quite simple, the main thing is not to pour liquid into the dry composition, and also do not dilute a whole bag of glue at one time, otherwise you simply will not have time to use it, it will harden and become unusable.

• Pour the required amount of water at room temperature into a clean container prepared in advance.
• According to the instructions, measure out the required portion of the dry adhesive powder and add it to the water.
• Gradually adding the dry mixture, it is best to mix it all at once so that the solution does not form lumps, which are therefore difficult to knead or break.
• Next, all the glue is thoroughly mixed with the whisk of a household construction mixer, which can easily be made from conventional drill and leave for ten, or even fifteen minutes, until all the unbroken lumps are saturated with water and soften themselves.
• After the required time, the glue should be mixed thoroughly again.

Photo from the site: isolux.ru

To be sure that the glue turned out exactly as needed, you just need to put it on a spatula and turn the tool over. If the composition flows slowly, falls off in large pieces and reluctantly leaves the surface of the instrument, then everything is fine. If it just immediately drains or falls back into the bucket, then the glue is most likely too liquid and you will have to either wait until it thickens a little or add dry powder.

The best on the market: how to dilute Unis 2000 tile adhesive

If you are planning to carry out all the finishing work in your apartment or house yourself with high quality and without difficulty, it will not hurt to find out what is the most popular, universal glue for most finishing works domestic production can be called “Yunis” glue. The technology for its application differs from conventional glue, that is, the tiles will have to be laid from top to bottom, but it provides adhesion to any surface at the highest level. So how to dilute this type of tile adhesive?

Photo from website: veridicom.com

• Pour clean water at room temperature into the prepared container.
• Add dry glue powder “Yunis 2000” at the rate of approximately one glass (180-220 grams) per kilogram of powder.
• All this needs to be mixed thoroughly with a household mixer for three, or even better, five minutes.
• Let the resulting mixture sit for ten minutes, and then mix it all thoroughly again. After this, the glue can be put to work immediately, it is completely ready.

You can mix the solution manually, but then no one can vouch for its quality. However, if the volume of dry powder does not exceed a kilogram, then most likely there will be no problems. It is worth constantly remembering that any volume of prepared glue must be completely used before 180 minutes have passed, that is, three hours. Otherwise the composition will be lost necessary qualities and properties, then it is better to throw it away immediately, so as not to re-glue the “sliding” tile later.

How to mix tile adhesive yourself

It also makes sense to figure out how to mix tile adhesive yourself if the factory versions of the powder are not available to you for some reason. In fact, there is absolutely nothing complicated and even an absolute beginner can easily cope with such work. You will need Portland cement, fine washed river sand and pure water. As plasticizers, you can add PVA glue, liquid glass (silicate glue), lime, liquid soap, or even washing powder in small quantities.

Photo from the site: Remtra.ru

• Pour water into the container.
• Add sand and cement there, in a ratio of five to one, and mix it all thoroughly.
• A plasticizer of your choice is also added to the solution in a small, arbitrary amount.

Further instructions are as simple as in all other options. Leave the mixture to “rest” for ten to fifteen minutes, then stir thoroughly again with a mixer. Immediately after re-mixing, the tile adhesive can be used for its intended purpose; it will show almost the same results as factory-made mixtures and compositions.

Photo from the site: gidpoplitke.ru

plitka-pol.ru

Even children who are kindergarten or at school they glue sheets of paper together. However, the scope of application of polyvinyl acetate is much wider: it simply cannot be replaced in carpentry work and even in the construction process. In the right concentration, PVA turns into a universal adhesive and sealant with high waterproof ratings.

PVA glue in construction: cement mortar

PVA is often added to the cement mortar. Of course, a lot here depends on the quality of the adhesive composition itself, so preference should be given to products from trusted companies. With the introduction of PVA, the cement mortar acquires additional waterproofing and greater adhesion. Experts recommend applying polyvinyl acetate to the surface before applying cement mixture, thereby further improving grip.

The generally accepted ingredients for creating high-quality cement mortar are sand, cement itself and a mixture consisting of PVA and water in a 2:1 ratio. In this case, it is not necessary to pour water into the glue, but, on the contrary, add PVA to the liquid and mix thoroughly. After drying, polyvinyl acetate becomes transparent, therefore, it will not be noticeable at all.

PVA glue in construction: carpentry and finishing

Quite often, wood is impregnated with PVA glue in order to give it additional water resistance. Additionally, polyvinyl acetate can be used to fix ceramic tiles to wood surfaces. To do this, it is necessary to apply at least 3 layers of undiluted PVA glue, and each layer should be allowed to dry completely.

Polyvinyl acetate is used to treat particularly absorbent surfaces before applying finishing materials to them, which are characterized by a short drying time. For example, during plastering work, because the plaster can be absorbed very quickly, not giving time to obtain a smooth surface. The use of PVA makes the process of moisture absorption not so fast, allowing craftsmen to work longer with the plaster composition.

PVA glue in construction: plasters, primers, paints

Polyvinyl acetate is used as a plasticizer in plaster mortars. It makes the plaster more durable and improves adhesion to the base. Each master has his own proportions, however, due to the advent of more modern plasticizers, PVA glue is losing popularity in this area of ​​application. Polyvinyl acetate cannot be added to solutions that will be used in rooms with high humidity.

An accessible primer composition can be made from PVA glue; for this, polyvinyl acetate is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2. After thorough mixing you should get a mass white with a liquid consistency that is easily distributed over the base. PVA-based paints are used to cover walls and ceiling surfaces. Such water-dispersed compositions are economical and easy to use. However, they can only be used in rooms with normal humidity levels.

tadgikov.net

How to dilute tile adhesive: DIY preparation

When laying tiles, it is very important to dilute the glue correctly, otherwise problems will arise. Firstly, it is much more difficult to work with a liquid or too thick mass, and secondly, the quality of the masonry suffers. In addition, it is important to choose the appropriate composition for specific conditions.

The reliability of fixing the tiles directly depends on the correct preparation of the adhesive solution.

Types of glue and their features

• Universal cement. The most popular composition. It is made from Portland cement with modifying additives and contains particles of latex and other materials. It’s easy to dilute this glue; just follow the instructions on the back, maintaining the correct ratio of dry matter and liquid.
• Reinforced. It is used to glue heavy elements, and also allows the coating to withstand more intense loads. This effect is achieved by adding strengthening ingredients.
• Moisture resistant. Mainly used for surfaces in constant contact with water. Unlike conventional mixtures, which are destroyed by moisture, this adhesive is repellent and therefore immune to its influence. It is an ideal choice for finishing swimming pools, saunas and bathrooms.
• Polymeric. It is used indoors, as it does not tolerate temperature fluctuations and impacts. external environment.
• Special types. Modified samples of mixtures that are intended for specific work. For example, for plasterboard and wood (the composition compensates for the movement of the material), as well as under warm floors and lining of stoves (heat-resistant and fireproof), external work (not afraid of frost), etc.

Prepare the solution yourself. It’s not difficult to do it yourself, as available components are used: sand, cement, water and sometimes slaked lime.

The principle of preparing mixtures is the same.

A good replacement for tile adhesive would be homemade solution

How to choose a quality product

Since it is not always possible to make tile adhesive correctly at home, it is much easier to purchase ready mixture. Let's give a few recommendations to help you make the right choice:

• Trust only trusted manufacturers. Companies with a good reputation monitor the quality of their products. Little-known brands of mixtures do not guarantee that the raw materials used and production conditions meet the standards.
• Pay attention to the composition. Each type of glue has its own specific recipe. In addition, the brand of components must comply with the standards.
• Date of manufacture. From the moment of production to the deadline for use, only six months pass. An expired mixture loses some of its properties and it is no longer possible to glue tiles with this composition.
• Storage conditions. Dry powders should be kept indoors with low humidity levels. This is important to preserve their qualities.
• Curing time. Normal glue sets quickly, but the craftsman still has the opportunity to adjust the position of the tiles within the first 20 minutes after installation.
• Fixing ability. The solution must hold the ceramic tile securely and not slip or deform.
• Adhesion level. The adhesion to the surface is ideally 1 N/mm2. This indicator also makes it clear how much force will have to be applied to remove the lining after the solution has dried.

When choosing a high-quality glue, its fixing ability plays an important role.

Kneading rules

The mixture is diluted in small portions, so you have the opportunity to work without haste and lay the tiles efficiently. The proportions for preparing tile adhesive are indicated on the packaging, but do not rush to blindly follow them. First, take only 2/3 of the liquid and mix with a full portion of the dry powder, gradually add the remaining water until the solution reaches a suitable consistency. Add more liquid if necessary.

Since it is quite difficult to thoroughly mix tile adhesive with your own hands, use a construction mixer. Check the thickness of the mass with a spatula; it should be sufficiently elastic, not clump, but not spread. Leave the glue for 15-20 minutes so that all components completely swell and combine into a homogeneous mass.

To thoroughly mix the glue, it is best to use a construction mixer.

How to make a solution yourself

Since it’s not difficult to make your own tile adhesive, you can save money on materials. To properly make a solution, you will need sand, cement and water. The proportions of dry ingredients are approximately 5:1. Glue plasticizers are replaced with slaked lime. Instead, you can use PVA, washing powder or liquid soap. At the same time, watch the amount of water.

Pre-sieve materials to remove lumps and impurities.

This is a standard tile adhesive recipe. For laying tiles in the house, this is a completely worthy option. In general, making a solution is not so difficult; even a beginner can do it. And if you use ready-made glue, you will save yourself time.

gidpoplitke.ru

Production cement tiles by pressing method

A simple question can have many answers. I will express my opinion on such nonsense. In the little things lies the reason why some people's tiles fly off, while others' tiles cannot be removed with a hammer drill.

Everyone seems to do the same thing. The glue is the same, they pour the same water and mix with a similar mixer. But the results are different.

Tile adhesive.

And in detail:

“How much water should be added; Should I pour water first or pour in the mixture?”

1. Water is poured in first. As much as indicated in the instructions. This is 6-8 liters per bag of glue (25 kg). If you knead in a 10 liter bucket - 3-4 liters per half bag. There are different numbers for different mixtures. The exact value can be found on the packaging of a specific mixture.

These calculations are necessary only for beginners, for the first batches. It is impossible to make a critical mistake in proportions. If you pour water, the glue will be liquid. It is impossible to work with such a mixture. This glue also has reduced strength. Excess water in both mortar and concrete is always undesirable.

Water is added first.

Thick glue (with insufficient water) is difficult to mix with a mixer. He's hard to work with. Forming ridges with a notched trowel is difficult. In summer, such glue quickly wears out. Sticking and smudging on tiles gets worse. And wall tiles with high water absorption may not stick at all.

1. If you pour water first, this gives undeniable advantages.

At the bottom, not only are there no dry zones left during mixing, but a more liquid layer is formed than at the top. That's a plus. Until the entire batch is used up, time passes (depending on the tile and the place of installation). In an hour, especially in summer, the mixture has time to harden. But the liquid glue at the bottom, during this time, becomes optimal.

Mixing glue in a bucket.

It is also convenient to dissolve various glue additives in water. This is not always necessary. But sometimes it is necessary to improve the quality characteristics of the glue by adding elastic

1. Re-mix the adhesive mixture.

What does repeated mixing do? Binders have such a property (cement and gypsum) as rapid setting, immediately after mixing. This is clearly visible on cement-sand mortar high grade (1:1). This happens literally in 5-10 seconds. It is difficult to work with such a mixture - it becomes thick. Water cannot be added. But if you mix it again, then such a solution will be in an optimal state for work from 20 minutes to an hour. It all depends on the weather and the mixture.

Re-mix the adhesive mixture.

With a 5-minute soak, additional soaking of the dry, unmixed lumps occurs.

1. How long to stir?

Stir until there are no dry lumps left. Especially at the bottom. If you pour water into an already poured dry mixture, then there will definitely be unmixed areas at the bottom. Or the lower layers will be thicker than the upper ones. And no mixer can mix completely.

1. At what speed should the adhesive mixture be mixed?

This requirement is based on common sense. The longer you mix the glue (and at higher speeds), the thinner it becomes. In this way you can significantly reduce the density. But the time required to work with such a batch is reduced. Thickening occurs faster.

Excerpt from the instructions.

This feature is reflected in another important recommendation from manufacturers of many mixtures. The meaning is something like this.

1. When the glue partially hardens in the container you can't add water. You just need to beat the mixture with a mixer. This will make it suitable for use for some time without reducing quality and strength.

I found a similar question on the website of the Henkel company, better known as the manufacturer of the “CERESIT” and “THOMSIT” mixtures.

Reply from a technical department employee.

If you add water to the glue and stir, nothing will change visually. But the strength will be lower. Dilution of hardened mortar and concrete at a construction site is a common occurrence and nothing seems to happen. This conclusion is wrong.

The entire process of preparing glue is shown in the video below. Despite English, everything is accessible. It is especially clear (visually) what the thickness of the glue should be.

But, to be completely convincing, it is necessary to periodically lift the laid tiles to see how the space is being filled.

“... I’ll be gluing tiles in the bathroom - where should I drain the remaining glue after washing the dishes?”

Typically, a separate container (a bucket or canister with the top cut off) is used to clean the mixer and tool from glue. In 2-3 days, the sediment from the glue accumulates and accounts for more than half. The water is poured down the drain, and the remainder is thrown into a glue bag. It is better to do this in the morning - the water has settled overnight and the sediment has compacted at the bottom.

If there is little sediment in the bucket, you can stir it and pour it down the drain. Then pour water.

In order to prepare PVA glue with your own hands, you need to select the following ingredients:

1. glycerin - 4 grams;
2. wheat flour - 100 grams;
3. distilled water - 1 liter;
4. ethyl alcohol - 20 ml;
5. photographic gelatin - 5 grams.

Some of these raw materials are always available at home, and the rest can be purchased at the pharmacy. To prepare the glue, you need to soak the gelatin in plain water a day before.

When the gelatin has already infused, you need to build a water bath from kitchen utensils. Place all raw ingredients, not including alcohol and glycerin, in a container and cook in a water bath.

Stir the resulting mixture constantly and wait until it reaches the desired consistency (thick).

When the mass has become thick, you can add ethyl alcohol and glycerin to it. Next, you need to thoroughly stir the mass until there are no inhomogeneities in it. After the mass has become homogeneous, you can stop the process of preparing the glue. You can use homemade PVA glue as soon as it cools down.

DIY wood glue

Quite often in household it is necessary to glue wood, cardboard or paper. And then it is best to prepare wood glue at home. To prepare it you need a slab of wood glue. Before actual cooking, you need to break the tile into small pieces and place them in a container. Next you need to fill the pieces of tile cold water, wait 10-12 hours until the glue absorbs water and forms a gelatinous mass.

After this, the container must be placed in a water bath and stirred constantly so that it does not burn. If you need wood glue of a thin consistency, then it would be advisable to add hot water to the mixture. There is no need to bring the glue to a boil; when there are no lumps in it, it means it is ready.

If you need to glue the leather together with wood glue, then you need to add glycerin to the prepared mass. Calculation: 1 teaspoon per 0.5 liter of glue.

Features of preparing glue at home

If you have already purchased facing tiles and want to work, then you need to prepare the glue yourself. As a rule, the adhesive mixture is prepared from cement and sand, water and PVA glue. Sand acts as a filler and should be small sizes, the maximum grain diameter is no more than 2 millimeters.

The ratio of cement and sand should be 1:3. In this case, the measure is not the weight of the materials, but their volume. For example, 2 buckets of cement require 6 buckets of sand.

It must be remembered that tile adhesive hardens quickly and must be prepared immediately before tiling. The tile adhesive solution can be used for no more than three hours.

Making glue at home is carried out in the following sequence of actions:

1. Cement and sand are thoroughly mixed.
2. Then water is added to the resulting mixture, having previously dissolved PVA glue in it. A bucket of tile adhesive requires 0.5 kg of adhesive. If the tiling work will be carried out in a room with high humidity, for example in a bathroom, then the volume of glue can increase and reach a maximum of 3 kg.
3. Then the tile adhesive is thoroughly mixed, its consistency should be thick. If the mass has become homogeneous, it means that the glue is ready for use.

The bonding strength of homemade tile adhesive is quite high, but is inferior to industrial analogues.

How to make casein glue at home

If casein powder is available

According to its properties casein glue similar to carpenter's adhesive, but it is not afraid of moisture. Making casein glue with your own hands is quite simple. To prepare it, you need a flat container, casein powder, borax and water. First, casein powder is poured with water and allowed to brew for three hours. Then the borax must be dissolved in hot water in a ratio of 1:7. The resulting solution is added to casein. This mixture is heated in a water bath to 70 ° C and stirred constantly. The glue can be used 40 minutes after it is removed from the water bath.

If you do not have casein powder, then you can prepare it yourself.

How to make casein glue from milk

To prepare casein powder, you need skim milk. The milk is placed in a warm place to sour and then filtered using cotton wool or blotting paper. Next, the casein remaining on the paper is washed in water and boiled. Finally, the casein must be spread out on paper and dried at room temperature.

After preparing the casein powder, you can begin to produce glue. To prepare the glue you need borax, water and casein powder in a ratio of 1:4:10. Next, mix the raw ingredients, but first add half the water. Then add the remaining water to the resulting thick consistency and mix everything thoroughly. Casein glue must be used immediately; it hardens after 3 hours.

Features of preparing wood glue

Making your own glue is very easy. The composition of this glue includes: flour, water, aluminum alum, rosin in a ratio of 40:10:1.5:3. All raw materials are filled with water and mixed thoroughly. Then the mixture is placed on low heat and heated. As soon as the glue begins to thicken, it is removed from the heat.

Use wood glue immediately before it hardens.

How to make waterproof glue

Quite often, households need glue that is not afraid of dampness. This type of glue is usually called waterproof. Waterproof glue is used for tiling in kitchens and bathrooms. This type of glue can be purchased ready-made, or you can prepare it yourself at home.

There are several ways to produce glue at home:

1. The first method of preparing glue requires cottage cheese or curdled milk, slaked lime. These two components are mixed until a thick, homogeneous mass is obtained. After this, the glue is ready for use, but you must remember that after applying the substance to the surfaces, you need to carefully compress and dry them.

2. Adhering to the second method of making glue, you need to purchase 100 grams of high-quality wood glue, 35 grams of drying oil. Wood glue is placed in a glass and simmered over low heat until it becomes liquid. Then add drying oil and stir the mixture thoroughly. This glue must always be warmed before use. Such hot glue connects perfectly with his own hands wooden surfaces, used when laying tiles, it is not afraid of either cold or hot water.

Knowing how to prepare various adhesives at home, you can always complete everything efficiently and on time. household work, creating a cozy and pleasant atmosphere.

Tile adhesive

• To prepare glue for tiles You will need:
  

  1. Packaging foam block 20x20x20 mm.
  2. Acetone.

  Tile adhesive. Operating procedure.

  The tiles are turned upside down. We place foam plastic at the corners of the tiles. Now drop a drop of acetone into each corner of the tile. Approximately 20 drops. The tile adhesive begins to create itself. After a few seconds, the foam dissolves and the tiles are pressed tightly against the wall.

  How quickly does foam tile adhesive set?

  You only need to wait 30 seconds and the glue will firmly attach the tiles to the wall surface.

  Anyone can make their own tile adhesive!

  Tile adhesive, read also:

  • Prepare tile adhesive - laying tiles has a secret base.
  • Glue tiles on uneven walls.
  • Adhesive for strengthening tiles.
  • Whitewash tile adhesive.
  • Tile adhesive according to Kerchensky’s original method.
  • Adhesive for bitumen tiles.

Permanent address: "tile adhesive"

http://www.goodidea.ru/904/klej-dlya-plitki

tile adhesive

tile adhesive

Preparation of mortar for tiling. DIY tile adhesive - finishing work

The solution is a mixture of sand, binder and water. Cement is used as a binder, with Portland cement being the best. Portland slag cement is less suitable for these purposes, since it contains a large percentage of finely ground blast furnace slag, which can cause undesirable discoloration of the surface of light-colored facing tiles.

When cooking solution great importance has the quality of sand. The sand should not contain contaminants or foreign inclusions such as clay, grass, leaves, etc. If a handful of sand, squeezed in the palm, is held in a lump, the sand is not suitable. This indicates a high content of clay impurities in it. Sand should not be too small or too large. A grain size of up to 3 mm is considered normal, in exceptional cases - up to 5 mm. The highest quality solution is obtained from sand with a grain size of up to 3 mm; it is the strongest, and such sand requires less cement.

Water should be taken from a tap or a well. Rainwater is less suitable; it is too soft. Rainwater that is gradually collected in a container, in which it usually sits for a long time and becomes dirty, is completely unsuitable. Over a long period of time, organic substances form in stagnant water, which subsequently destroy the cement binding material, so that the solution, initially quite strong, gradually loses its strength.

Composition of the mixture for tiling walls. DIY tile adhesive

Main components: cement And sand knead in proportions from 1: 3 to 1: 4, but more often in a proportion of 1: 4 by volume. It is not recommended to measure by eye. You can use a liter jar, bucket, etc. as a measure.

At mixing the solution in proportion by mass, it is useful to know that one bag of cement weighing 50 kg has a volume of 42 liters; Thus, 1 liter of cement weighs 1.2 kg. A weighed amount of sand and cement is first mixed until smooth until the mixture takes on one color, and only then water is gradually added. Solution should have an easily moldable consistency.

If you add a lot of water at once, the solution will be liquid. It is best to prepare the solution in small portions, no more than an hour's work. After this time, the solution begins to harden. And if the hardened solution is stirred again by adding water to it, it loses its strength, and subsequently facing tiles will fall away from the base. To make the solution more plastic, add a little lime to it, in an amount of up to 1/5 of the volume of cement. Under no circumstances should gypsum be added to the cement mortar.

• Previous article

Preparing the base for ceramic tile cladding

Laying tiles with your own hands: technology

With all these tools at hand, you can easily lay the tiles on the floor yourself.

So let's get started.

The first step is to prepare the base for laying the tiles. Of course, like any other floor covering, tiles should be laid on a clean surface - dry and almost perfectly flat. If you have concrete base- you will have to trim it, and self-leveling mixtures are perfect for this (although in this case you will also need to remove dust, cover up cracks, sanding, etc.).

If the installation is carried out on a wooden subfloor, then it will have to be leveled by scraping, putting putty on every crack, covering up or even sanding the unevenness. Or put thick (from 12 mm) sheets of moisture-resistant plywood.

Then they are carried out waterproofing works using appropriate coating materials, and then priming the surface. Priming will have to be carried out more than once - take a closer look at how it “behaves”: if it is almost immediately absorbed into the surface, then you will have to go through the primer a couple more times, so that the adhesion of the tile to the base of the rough is greatest.

Then you will need to mark the prepared subfloor in order to lay the tiles. To do this you need:

• remove all baseboards and door frames to ensure good access to the walls;
• determine the midpoints of the sides of opposite walls in order to draw the center lines of the room;
• also draw diagonal lines if laying with your hands will be done diagonally.

If you have selected a pattern for your floor (or sketched it out), then you can proceed to laying out the tiles according to the sketch. The outlined lines will serve as a guide to the evenness of the direction.

Remember that it is not always possible to lay exactly a certain number of solid tiles. And therefore you will have to try to hide the cut parts under the baseboard or furniture. Well, and of course, if there are “main” objects in the room (for example, in the bathroom - a bathtub, in the living room - fireplace, etc.), then they will have to be surrounded with whole tiles around the perimeter. You can choose tiles of a different shade - especially if you want to highlight these objects.

So, you have already laid out the tiles on the floor, and you notice that not all the tiles fit seamlessly on the floor. This means that if you have “extra” centimeters left, you will have to cut it off. What is the best way to do this, and what recommendations should you follow?

How to cut tiles

Before cutting, the tiles will need to be soaked in a container of water - you will have to keep the tiles in water for at least an hour, so you should take care of this in advance. After getting wet, it will become completely pliable - and you can easily cut the material with a regular glass cutter, and then, placing the tile on the edge of the table, press on the area that needs to be cut. The tile will fall apart exactly along the cut.

Everything seems to be easy and simple. But there are some nuances here too:

1. Wall tiles can be cut with a glass cutter, and laying tiles can be used as flooring– a tile cutter, which differs from a glass cutter in the size of the wheel (the diameter of the tile cutter is one and a half centimeters). The larger size of the tile cutter wheel allows you to make punctures to a greater depth. In addition, you can then use a tile cutter to break the tiles after making the cut.
2. The cut line should be drawn no closer (or better yet further) than 10 mm - the distance from the edge of the tile.
3. The glass cutter should be used after marking the cut line - evenly pressing the tile, roll it towards you, leaving a visible mark.
4. The incision is made only once.

You don’t have to place the tile on the edge of the table, measuring the millimeters of coincidence of the cut line with the line of the edge of the table, but simply place an ordinary stick (match, wedge, nail) underneath it and lightly press on both sides of the marking line.

In general, tile cutters are supplied with a limiting ruler - for those cases when it is necessary to obtain tiles of a standard (standard) size. But to drill holes in the tiles, they use a tool specially designed for this purpose - a “ballerina”.

How to make a hole

Sometimes it happens that even the most careful people, when trying to drill a hole in a tile, make cracks. Naturally, after this it is simply impossible to use the tiles in decoration - but then how to drill holes? One of the most simple ways is as follows: the glazed surface is removed from the intended location of the hole (to do this, you can lightly tap with a hammer on an object that is blunt at one end and sharp at the other, it can be a tap), then a hole is drilled using hand drill, the drill must be clamped in the chuck.

At the fifth stage, the adhesive solution is mixed - clean water is poured into the prepared container and the dry mixture is poured into it (the proportions must be observed, they are always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging), then this solution is thoroughly mixed. Next, you need to let the mixture sit for a few minutes, then stir again to achieve maximum homogeneity - and your tile adhesive is ready!

At the sixth stage, the tiles are directly laid on the floor. Glue is applied to the base (to apply glue, you can use a special grater, smooth on one side and serrated on the other). It should be remembered that for heavy tiles you need to select a grater with large teeth. So, the glue is applied with the smooth side to the base of the floor, then the serrated side is distributed over the surface. The thickness of the layer should be greater than the height of the grater teeth.

Having laid the tile on the floor, it should be pressed firmly with your hands - over the entire surface. And if your tile has big sizes– then use a rubber hammer to tap, “nailing” it from the center and spreading out to the edges. In order to maintain gaps of equal size and distance, you can use plastic cross separators. Having laid the tiles on a base covered with glue, you should once again walk over the entire glued surface, remove any remaining glue - and move on to a new area!

Don't forget to check the floor level - you can use a building level to check how the tiles are laid. Moreover, you will have to check it constantly - after all, if the surface is uneven, you will need to level it with the help of additional adhesive (or by removing it). After completely laying the tiles (of course, after waiting for some time, about half an hour), you can remove the cross-separators and begin grouting the tile joints.

At the seventh stage, grouting between the tiles is carried out - and this should be carried out only after the tiles have finally set to the base of the floor. You can also use grout to fill the gaps from the cross dividers. The grout is prepared by mixing the dry mixture with water (the proportions, again, will have to be followed according to the manufacturers' recommendations) and bringing it to the consistency of a thick paste (you can add a little water). Next, the grout solution is applied to the tile joints with a spatula, all gaps and holes are filled, the “excess” grout is removed with a spatula and reapplied. After finishing the grouting work, it is recommended to wait at least half an hour for the grouting compound to polymerize - and now you can begin to wash the tiles.

The tiles are washed with a sponge dampened in warm water. In this case, you should show all your dexterity in order to have time to wash the grout with possible glue residues - otherwise the grout will be very difficult to wash off at all, and the surface (glazed) layer is easily damaged. The final “washing” of your tiles should be carried out an hour after grouting - using a sponge and a piece of dry flannel cloth.

Experience in reducing the cost of repair and construction work

What difference does it really make - an apartment or a house? The point is to achieve the desired result, cheaper and without any hassles, without compromising it.
Mixtures, of course, have a right to life, I myself use them quite often, but if possible, I do without them.
There is simply no need for fanaticism - either only with mixtures or without them at all.
And here is another financial hole in almost any large-scale repair or construction - priming.
It is necessary and practically impossible to do without it, and the procedure is multiple.
Before plaster, then over plaster before putty, then over putty before wallpaper.
This is the minimum, but it can be between the start and finish lines, etc...
The most popular packaging is a 10 liter canister, it’s probably time for me to start selling empty containers, I just can’t bring myself to throw them away...
Those who are especially curious can read a lot of useful information on the label, in particular, find out and, it seems to be 1.003.
And from this it follows that for the price of 10-12 bucks they practically sell us 10 liters of water... which we also have to transport to the long-suffering construction site.
BUT I was passing through another city and bought several packages of dry soil - at home I simply diluted 70 grams of some powder with 10 liters of water
AND THE PACKAGING COST was 12 times cheaper...
Here, for some reason, I was accused of slowing down progress - there are modern European-quality renovations and renovations using old-fashioned methods.
Yes, there is no European-quality renovation, there is simply repair with payment in euros.
Almost nothing new has been invented - plasterboard has been used in the USSR since the 70s, foam blocks have been known since the 30s, but their operation was so disastrous that this shame was forgotten for many 70 years, Finnish prefabricated panel houses were built on a large scale even under Khrushchev, primer made from bone meal was almost always used by skilled builders...