Creating a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands: drawings and diagrams. Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner cyclone - high technology at home Do-it-yourself concrete dust cyclone

A home vacuum cleaner is so familiar to the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, it has been used exclusively possible way separation of dust from clean air - filter.

Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag of thick tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that hold the smallest particles of debris. At the same time, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.

Filter makers are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and air throughput. In addition, the dirtier the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.

He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. Needless to say, this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal scorch and chip accumulators of the "cyclone" type for a long time.

But no one guessed to apply this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986, he registered a patent for the first cyclone type vacuum cleaner, called G-Force.

In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:

  1. filter membrane. The most massive and cheap way remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
  2. Water filter. Air with garbage passes through a container of water (like in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air stream enters the outlet. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to the high cost.
  3. Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the "cyclone" type. It is a compromise in terms of cost and quality of cleaning in comparison with a membrane and a water filter. Let's take a closer look at this model.

The principle of operation of the cyclone

The illustration shows the processes taking place in the cyclone filter chamber.

Polluted air enters the cylindrical filter housing (2) through the pipe (1). The branch pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) is twisted into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.

Under the action of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity, they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest debris particles (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After the final cleaning, they exit to the intake fan (7).

It will not be difficult to make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands if you have experience working with tools. The installation, called a cyclone, plays the role of an effective air purifier from small debris and dust. Many woodworking machines are equipped with nozzles for chip removal. A homemade cyclone is connected to this pipe.

People who were in the area industrial enterprises, paid attention to the conical structures, turned down with their top. These are industrial cyclones designed to purify polluted air. The problem of creating a cyclone filter with their own hands worries the owners of home workshops.

The work of the cyclone is as follows:

  1. The clogged air flow through the hose comes from the nozzle of the machine into a separate chamber;
  2. Air enters the tank through a side pipe installed at the top of the cyclone body;
  3. At the top of the body, a flexible hose is connected to a vertical air duct, docked with a vacuum cleaner;
  4. The vacuum cleaner provides draft to an air stream in the device;
  5. A vortex flow is created in the chamber, moving spirally along the walls of the chamber - from top to bottom;
  6. Solid particles fall down into the opening of the chamber and then fall into the garbage collector;
  7. The purified air rushes up, passing through the filter, enters the vacuum cleaner hose;
  8. At the end of the work, accumulated debris (chips and dust) is removed from the drive.
  9. Can be purchased ready product to clean the air from pollution (sawdust, dust and debris), but the simplicity of the device attracts many minds to making a cyclone with their own hands. The variety of auxiliary material, as well as the availability of universal tools, allows you to create cyclones of various models.

    Do-it-yourself filter does not take much time and saves cash. Let's imagine several options for making cyclone filters with your own hands.

    Cyclone from plastic buckets

    As the body of the device, you can use 10 liter plastic buckets from under water-based paint. Prepare the following tools and materials.

    Tools

  • construction knife;
  • marker or pencil;
  • compass;
  • jigsaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • hacksaw;
  • awl;
  • glue gun.

materials

  • two plastic 10 liter buckets;
  • plumbing PVC pipe and angle ø 32 mm;
  • car air filter;
  • glue stick;
  • construction plywood;
  • roofing iron;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • vacuum cleaner hoses;
  • wood glue;
  • sealant.

Cyclone assembly step by step instructions

  1. Remove lids from buckets. One of them is cut in half in height.
  2. The pipe section is enclosed in a plywood box structure.
  3. Plywood boards are glued with wood glue so that the pipe fits snugly inside the box.
  4. The space between the pipe and plywood is filled with sealant.
  5. Make a template out of cardboard or thick paper, which repeats the bend of the side surface of the bucket in its upper part (70 - 100 mm from the container lid).
  6. Having attached the template to the box, a bend line is applied with a pencil or marker.
  7. With an electric jigsaw, cut the box along with the pipe, following the intended line.
  8. The structure is leaned against a bucket.
  9. From the inside of the container, outline the contours of the nozzle opening with a pencil. Do this in such a way that the pipe enters the hole at an angle downwards (20 - 300 from the horizontal)
  10. Cut out a hole with a knife.
  11. Along the perimeter of the leaning plywood, holes are pierced from the inside of the container with an awl.
  12. With the help of a screwdriver, with self-tapping screws, a plywood framing of the pipe is attached to the bucket through the holes.
  13. After checking the reliability of the fastening of the box, with outside glue gun seal the perimeter of contact.
  14. From roofing iron cut out a circle with a diameter equal to the inner circumference of the bucket - at a height of 70 mm from the bottom. Marking is done with a compass.
  15. The tin circle is cut in half from the center to the edge.
  16. The outer edges of the incision are bred at an angle of 300.
  17. The curly insert is installed in a bucket by surprise.
  18. A screw-shaped tin insert will swirl sawdust, chips and dust, which will quickly be sent to the drive (1/2 of the second bucket).
  19. At the top bucket cut off the bottom.
  20. The cyclone chamber is tightly inserted into the drive.
  21. A hole ø 32 mm is cut in the lid of the upper bucket. This can be done with an appropriate reamer or knife.
  22. A pipe, 300 mm long, is lowered into the hole so that a branch pipe 70 mm high remains outside.
  23. The junction is treated with a glue gun.
  24. The side branch pipe is connected with a hose to the nozzle of a woodworking machine or a garbage collector.
  25. The protruding pipe from the bucket lid is connected to the vacuum cleaner hose.
  26. In order for completely purified air to enter the vacuum cleaner, a cylindrical air filter is put on the lower end of the pipe.
  27. A patch is cut out of tin along the outer diameter of the filter. A piglet (plug) is cut out with three tongues.
  28. Three strips of tin are attached to the tongues of the plug with screws or rivets, the upper ends of which are bent.
  29. The limbs are attached to the back surface of the bucket lid with screws.
  30. The connection of the plug and the lower opening of the filter is sealed with a glue gun.

The cyclone filter is ready for operation. As needed, the upper part of the cyclone is removed from the drive and its debris is released. The filter is periodically cleaned with a toothbrush, driving the bristles into the folds of the corrugations.

You can not make a box-shaped frame of the side pipe, and cut and bend its outer edges. Then fasten the bent sides to the edges of the bucket opening with screws or rivets. But such a connection will be less reliable than the above mount.

Cyclone with figured insert

Take two plastic buckets - 5 and 10 liters. The cyclone is assembled as follows:

  1. At a 5 liter bucket, cut off the upper side with a knife.
  2. The container is turned over and placed on a sheet of plywood. Circle the bucket with a pencil.
  3. Another circle is marked with a compass, with a radius of 30 mm more.
  4. Inside the ring, two holes are cut with a crown and the contour of the curly insert is applied.
  5. The jigsaw blade is inserted alternately into these holes and a curly insert and a fixing ring are cut out. The insert is an unfinished circle with an extended base (100 mm).
  6. The ring is applied to back side lids of a large bucket and make a pencil outline.
  7. Cut out the center of the lid with a knife.
  8. A drill drills holes at the top of a small container.
  9. The fixing ring is put on the bucket. With a screwdriver, screws are screwed through the holes of the bucket into the ring.
  10. A circle of a lid from a 10 liter bucket is placed on the fixing belt with the side up.
  11. The circle from the cover is fixed with screws to the fixing ring.
  12. In the body of the cyclone, 2 holes ø 40 mm are made with a crown - on the side and on top.
  13. A square is cut out of plywood, in which an opening of the same diameter is made with a crown. The frame is placed on the cover of the cyclone body, aligning the holes. The frame is fixed with screws from the inside of the cover.
  14. I install the curly insert just below the fixing ring. From the outside of the container, self-tapping screws are screwed into the body of the insert.
  15. Inserted into the frame pvc pipe, which does not reach the curly insert by 40 mm with its lower end. At the top, the pipe should protrude 40 mm above the surface of the cover.
  16. The side opening of the cyclone body is expanded in the form of a horizontal drop.
  17. A corner PVC pipe is glued into the opening with hot glue.
  18. I put the body of the chip blower on a large bucket (accumulator), snapping the lid.
  19. A vacuum cleaner hose is inserted into the upper outlet. The side branch pipe is connected by a hose to a waste-collecting nozzle.
  20. All seams of the joints are sealed with a glue gun or a syringe with sealant. The device is ready to work.

For many, the question may arise - why do you need curly insert? Insert Shapes right direction air flow inside the cyclone. At the same time, the horizontal platform beats the air pressure upwards and allows sawdust and other debris to gradually settle in the drive.

Chip pump from the sewer riser

To make a chip blower from plastic sewer fittings, you will need the following tools and materials.

Tools

  • corner machine;
  • drill;
  • glue gun;
  • riveter;
  • jigsaw;
  • construction knife.

materials

  • PVC Sewer pipe ø 100 mm;
  • PVC pipe ø 40 mm;
  • hose;
  • rivets;
  • glue stick;
  • fixing rings - clamps;
  • two 2-liter bottles;
  • 5 liter eggplant.

Chip blower assembly step by step instructions

  1. From sewer riser cut off the neck, leaving a segment 1 m long.
  2. A plastic bottle is cut, leaving a part of the cylinder with a cone, neck and stopper.
  3. Holes are drilled in both plugs. The plugs are glued with a gun and tightened with a clamp.
  4. The cut bottle is inserted into the bottom hole of the riser. The connection is sealed with hot glue and tightened with a clamp.
  5. On the side of the PVC pipes cut a hole ø 40 mm. A pipe is inserted into it, 70 mm long. The joints are sealed.
  6. 3 circles ø 100 mm are cut out of tin with an electric jigsaw.
  7. A hole ø 40 mm is cut in the center of each circle.
  8. The resulting disks are cut in half.
  9. The halves are connected in series with each other with rivets, getting an auger.
  10. A PVC pipe ø 40 mm is threaded inside the spiral. The pipe is connected to the auger with hot glue.
  11. The entire structure is pulled into the riser in such a way that the upper part of the pipe protrudes 100 mm above the riser opening. In this case, the auger must remain inside the cyclone body.
  12. Cut off the neck and bottom of a 5 liter eggplant in such a way that Bottom part the cone was tightly dressed on the upper end of the sewer pipe. The outer diameter of the connection is glued with a gun.
  13. The upper opening of the neck is glued to the outlet of the inner pipe.
  14. A storage bottle is screwed into the bottom cork.
  15. A hose pipe is inserted into the horizontal pipe, the second end of which is connected to the nozzle of the collector of chips and sawdust of a woodworking machine (circular, milling cutter or other equipment).
  16. The vertical outlet is connected to the nozzle by the hoses of the vacuum cleaner. The chip blower is ready to work.

Garbage "flows" down the surface of the auger and enters the bottle (garbage bin). Air, freed from solids, goes up the inner tube. To clean the drive, just unscrew plastic bottle from the cork and shake out all its contents.

Road token cyclone

The original way of making a cyclone from a road chip attracts many homemade lovers. The shape of the chip is a cone made of rather thick plastic.

Proceed as follows:

  1. The bottom and top of the cone are cut off with a hacksaw or a circular saw.
  2. The chip is turned over and inserted into a suitable container, which will serve as a garbage collector.
  3. Measure the diameter of the upper opening and cut out a round cover of the appropriate size from a dense material.
  4. A hole is cut in the lid with a crown, into which a PVC pipe ø 40 mm is inserted.
  5. A drop-shaped side hole is cut out, into which a corner PVC pipe is glued.
  6. All joints are treated with a hot glue gun.
  7. The chip extractor is connected by hoses to a vacuum cleaner and a chip collection nozzle.

Upon completion of the work, the device is ready for operation.

Do-it-yourself snail for a chip blower

Power household vacuum cleaner for some types of processing of wooden blanks is insufficient. To clean large volumes of air, they make a snail-type chip blower with their own hands. The body of the device resembles a snail shell in its shape.

Craftsmen make the body of the snail from two types of materials - metal and wood. Creating a metal case will require the application welding machine and ability to use this equipment. There is another way - making a snail from construction plywood.

To work with plywood in a home workshop, you need to have a jigsaw, drill and other woodworking tools. The most important detail exhaust fan is the air intake wheel. It is made from lightweight materials such as wood, plastic and the like. The impeller is assembled in such a way that the blades are bent or turned with the inner edge in relation to the wheel radius line by 450.

The outlet with the help of adapters and hoses are joined with cyclone filter. The axis of the air intake wheel is connected directly to the motor shaft or a belt drive is installed, which is preferable to coaxial docking. Firstly, the pulley on the wheel axle is easier to isolate from the side opening of the volute, which increases the performance of the device. Secondly, the removal of the electric motor contributes to its necessary cooling.

The expediency of using snails is due to large volumes of production. Engine power is selected according to the operating mode of the exhaust fan. Usually it is enough to install a motor with a power of 5 kW to 30 kW of asynchronous type. It is advisable to connect the power unit through a shaft speed control device.

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself cyclone filter not only ensures cleanliness in the home workshop, residential area, but also protects the respiratory tract and lungs of people around. The existence of various "recipes" for making a cyclone with your own hands confirms that, if desired, every fan of making homemade products can do this.

Today we will tell you about the cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that you have to deal with in woodworking is dust removal. Industrial equipment quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it's completely simple.

What is a cyclone and why is it needed

In the workshop, there is almost always a need to remove garbage of a sufficiently large fraction. Sawdust, small scraps, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but with a high probability it will quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to remove liquid waste.

The cyclone filter uses an aerodynamic swirl to bind the specks different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the garbage manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at a sufficient speed.

Such filters are included in the kit of many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost cannot be called affordable for the layman. At the same time, the range of problems solved with the help of homemade devices, not at all anymore. A handicraft cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planers, perforators or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or chips from various types of machines. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.

Difference Between Wet and Dry Cyclone

To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the tank does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have special form and be directed either to the bottom of the tank, or tangentially to the walls. The exhaust channel, according to a similar principle, is recommended to be made rotatable, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.

As already mentioned, the cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With a liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and the cyclone is partially rarefied, which contributes to the evaporation of moisture and its breakdown into very small drops. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.

Most washing vacuum cleaners air is supplied to the water through a diffuser, so any moisture it contains is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.

We make from improvised materials

The most simple and affordable option for the capacity of the cyclone there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 watts.

The bucket lid must be intact and hermetically put on the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be finalized by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes of the desired diameter is to use a homemade compass. Two self-tapping screws must be screwed into a wooden rail so that their tips are 27 mm apart from each other, no more, no less.

The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, it is desirable that they be as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic scratch excellently in this way. homemade tool, forming even edges with virtually no scoring.

The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. In advance, we draw your attention to the fact that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. The knee is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is pre-applied under the side.
  2. WITH reverse side a rubber o-ring is pulled onto the socket with force. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.

The inlet pipe is located with a narrow turning part inside the bucket, the socket is on the outside almost flush with the lid. The knee must be provided with another turn at 45º and directed obliquely down and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is manufactured with the expectation of wet cleaning, you should increase the extreme elbow by cutting the pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.

The exhaust pipe is located in the opposite position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one knee into it so that the air intake occurs at the wall or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Do not forget about the o-rings, for more reliable fixation and to prevent turning of the knees, they can be wrapped with plumbing tape.

How to adapt the device for machines and tools

To be able to draw in waste when working with hand and stationary tools, a system of adapters is required. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the nozzles for power tool dust bags. In extreme cases, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped with vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.

With stationary equipment, everything is more complicated. Dust vents have a very different configuration, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:

  1. If the dust extraction of the machine is designed for 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a diameter of 50 mm to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
  2. For docking with a dust trap of home-made machines, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
  3. When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, use the convection flow created by the moving parts of the tool for greater efficiency. For example: a branch pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be tangential to the saw blade.
  4. Sometimes it is required to provide dust extraction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a cutter. Use 50mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.

Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use

Usually, a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone is not chosen independently, but the one that is available is used. However, there are a number of limitations in addition to the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.

The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally fit the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, a shorter segment must be joined to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer section, in this form, is refueled into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or sanitary duct tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially with the o-ring.

In the video, another example of the manufacture of a cyclone for dust removal in the workshop

To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the extreme part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it in. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly on the pipe, it is recommended to warm it up a little with a hair dryer or an indirect flame. gas burner. The latter is considered an excellent option, because this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving stream.

From the very beginning of work in the workshop, I faced the problem of removing dust after work. The only opportunity available to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, just an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a tangible layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in hair and lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop exacerbated the problem. Some solution was to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. In winter, water freezes in an unheated room and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to the hygiene of the workplace. Firstly, the respirator does not block all 100% of the dust, some of it is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all back streets can be climbed with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust from there.

In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of operation (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust, greatly exceeding the calculated values, will greatly affect the resource of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.

There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in the workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found on thematic forums interesting solution- use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a conventional household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems of household vacuum cleaners are solved if dirt and dust are removed from the air to a standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some collect cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, others - from plywood and everything that is enough for imagination. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.


The principle of operation is simple - the air flow is twisted in the cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the action of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.

One of the frequent problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called "carousel". This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust container, but swirl endlessly inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a speed of the air flow created by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. It is necessary to reduce the speed a little and the "carousel" will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the "carousel" into the container and takes its place. And in the second model of plastic cyclones, this carousel practically does not exist. To eliminate air leakage, I smeared with hot glue the junction of the filter with the cover.

I decided to take a larger dust container so that I had to take out the garbage less often. I bought a barrel of 127 liters, produced, it seems, in Samara - the size is right! I'm going to carry the barrel to the trash can like a grandmother carrying a shopping bag - on another cart, so as not to overstrain.

Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collector permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply put a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them to the right place. I wanted to make a mobile unit on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one block.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to cook the body of the installation from metal. frame from profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

With a vertical layout, there is a possibility of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The tangible weight of the trolley is offset by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure is not stable enough, to fill the cavity of the frame with lead shot or sand. But this was not required.

In order to achieve the verticality of the rods, it was necessary to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vise came in handy. Thanks to such a simple equipment, it was possible to achieve accurate installation of angles.

It is convenient to move the trolley by holding on to the vertical bars, so I strengthened their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame with the help of clamps.

At the top of the rods is a platform for a vacuum cleaner. Further, holes will be drilled in the corners in the lower part and fixed wooden planks using self-tapping screws.

Here is the whole frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I did not seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage with high quality. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Goggles and a welded mask fog up quickly, impairing visibility, bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is done. Besides, spring is only a couple of weeks away.

I really did not want to leave the frame in this form. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
Esteemed thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in frost, as long as the paint is not on water based and there was no condensation on the part. And if the paint is with a hardener, then do not bathe at all.
I found an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite in the stash, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha in the summer -. The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original thinner, Hammereit added some regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began to paint.
In summer, this paint dried in one hour. It is difficult to say how long it dried in the winter, but when I returned to the workshop by the evening of the next day, the paint had dried. True, without the promised hammer effect. Probably the degreaser is to blame, not negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The cover looks and feels secure. Perhaps it is not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The body of the cyclone is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But fastening the filter to the lid of the barrel is rather flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into the plastic. At the same time, significant lateral loads can occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel must be strengthened. People approach this problem in different ways. Basically, they collect an additional stiffening frame for the filter. The designs are varied, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this a little differently. A holder for pipes of a suitable diameter was welded onto one of the rods.

In this holder, I clamp the hose, which accounts for all the twists and jerks. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any stress. Now the unit can be pulled behind you right by the hose without fear of damaging anything.

I decided to fix the barrel with tie-down straps. When choosing locks in a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter lashing strap with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and a bare Russian-made frog-type lock lying next to it would cost me 250 rubles. That's where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology.

Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on the forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connected to a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during the tests, I deliberately blocked the opening of the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But due to the very tight grip of the clamps, the barrel did not shrink completely, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself with a click.

At the top of the unit is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

As a household vacuum cleaner, I bought a bagless almost two-kilowatt monster. I was already thinking, and at home I would need such a thing.
When buying a vacuum cleaner on an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. The people sell used things without a guarantee, with a depleted part of the resource, shortcomings in appearance at prices below the store by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some running things, but second-hand vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of placement of ads, this trade sometimes drags on for years. And as soon as you start haggling and calling an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days, I still found a great option for myself for 800 rubles. Well-known brand, 1900 watts, built-in cyclone filter (already the second in my system) and another fine filter.
For its fastening, I did not come up with anything more elegant than pressing it with a tie-down strap. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to fiddle a bit with the hose connections. As a result, we have such a setting. And she works!

Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such gizmos, people choke with delight. Here is something similar and I experienced the first time I turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone walks in street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, impossible to sweep due to dust stuck in the pores, so clean before. Persistent attempts to sweep it only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

In the barrel, we managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom. During operation of the device, due to the translucence of the filter, you can observe dust wisps swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but it was a small amount and these were especially light and volatile fractions.

Very pleased with the result. No more dust storms in the workshop. You can say I'm going to new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, due only to the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be dragged and pulled by the hose without being afraid to pull out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still ran into the problem of a lack of barrel rigidity.
Bought a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but sucks like a beast - sucks stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and pulls bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner slammed the blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tight girth of the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, sorry. But it looks like this:

Thematic forums warn of such a possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy instead plastic barrel metal. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not give a result.
2. Assemble the box yourself right size from 15 mm plywood. Here it is more real.

The box was assembled on self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed with double sided tape foam base.

The trolley had to be altered a little - the rear clamp was digested for a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and volume increased due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a trash bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). old barrel didn't allow it.

The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher, I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out.

Well done. Nice, functional, safe. How I love.

About filters.
The cyclone filter does not retain more than 97% of dust. Therefore, additional filters are often added to them. From English, "HEPA" translates as High Efficiency Particulate Air "- a filter for airborne particles.

Agree that even you cannot imagine your life without such necessary equipment like a vacuum cleaner? They cope not only with dust, but also with dirt.

Of course, vacuum cleaners can be used not only at home, but they are also different: rechargeable, washing, pneumatic. As well as automotive, low-voltage industrial, knapsack, gasoline, etc.

The principle of operation of a cyclone vacuum cleaner

James Dyson was the first inventor of the cyclone vacuum cleaner. His first creation was G-Force in 1986.

A little later in the 1990s, he applied for the manufacture of cyclone apparatus and already assembled his center for the creation of vacuum cleaners. In 1993, his first vacuum cleaner, known as the "Dayson DC01", went on sale.
So after all, how does this miracle of a cyclone type work?

It looks like the creator, James Dyson, was a remarkable physicist. Thanks to centrifugal force, it is involved in dust collection.

The device is two-chamber and it is divided into two types - external and internal. The air that swirls inside the dust collector moves upward as if in a spiral.

By law, large dust particles enter the outer chamber, and everything else remains in the inner chamber. And the purified air leaves the dust collector through filters. This is how vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter work.

Vacuum cleaners with a cyclone filter, features

Do not opt ​​for those models that require little power. You will definitely not like such cleaning and most likely want to throw away such a device.

Do not waste money in vain, but approach the purchase of a vacuum cleaner more seriously. One has only to contact the sales consultant and he will help you with the choice of one or another vacuum cleaner.

The device should be chosen, which is 20-30% more powerful than a bag vacuum cleaner. It is best to take the one with a power of 1800 watts. Almost all manufacturers of vacuum cleaners produce models with this filter, which is good news.

Advantages of cyclone dust collectors

1.Skazhdym, probably, it happened when you accidentally found the item you needed in the dust collector? Now this is not a problem because it is transparent! And you will always be able to notice the items that you need to get out of there as soon as possible.

This is one of the most important pluses.

2. The power of such vacuum cleaners is maximum and does not slow down the speed and power, even with a clogged container. Cleaning is much more pleasant, power does not drop, cleaning is cleaner.

Such a vacuum cleaner is capable of detaining much more than you imagine. Up to 97%!!! Not likely, right? Although some are dissatisfied with this result, as they prefer vacuum cleaners with a water filter.

3. Buying a cyclone vacuum cleaner not only makes a bargain, but also saves storage space, as its weight is quite light. You don't have to carry heavy things.

4. No need to constantly change paper bags for vacuum cleaner.

5. Power. She is not lost from fullness.

6. It can be washed well with water and dried.

Cons of cyclone dust collectors

1. One of the disadvantages of these vacuum cleaners is not very pleasant. This is washing and cleaning the filter. Of course, you don’t have to clean the container every day with a brush, but still, this is one of the minuses. Laziness is present in every person. Yes, it is certainly unpleasant to face the fact that you need to get your hands dirty.

2. Noise. The noise from this type of vacuum cleaner is much greater than from a conventional one.

3. Power consumption. It is also much higher than from a conventional vacuum cleaner. This is a small tornado.

Buy this little miracle or not, it's up to you. In fact, all its advantages cover those not many of its shortcomings. Cleanliness in the house is much more pleasant than not fully completed tidy, agree?

Personal impressions

Compared to the old vacuum cleaner, the cyclone dust collector looks quite modest in size. It is impossible to believe that such a little one is capable of something serious. Now old vacuum cleaner can only be used for wet cleaning.

I take out accessories, at the first use, I insert a pipe that is not large in diameter, I turn on the device, and what really surprises me is that the brush cleans carpets much better than my previous assistant.

He cleans everything. Dirt, the hair of our pets. Previously, it was necessary to make no small effort to cope with such “little things now”.

I have laminate flooring in the hallway and it was just as easy to clean. The fact is that I have another brush in stock, harder than the previous one for carpets, so I just coped with this task. You know, and the sound of this vacuum cleaner is not as loud as they wrote about it on the Internet.

I am pleased with this device because it is light and not so loud. I also liked the compartment for storing all the necessary nozzles, it is very convenient that it is built into the vacuum cleaner itself.

Once I knew what this little tornado was capable of, it was time to clean the container. Thank God, when I began to shake out the garbage from the dust collector, it fell in dense large lumps.

Since the debris was tamped down by the air flow. There are no balls of dust to be seen, and it did not rise into the air! So I finished my first cleaning with my cyclone vacuum cleaner. I washed the container and that was the end of the cleaning!

Cyclone for vacuum cleaner photo

All vacuum cleaners are designed for one purpose - cleanliness. This applies to all vacuum cleaners.
Industrial and construction vacuum cleaners usually used on machines or for cleaning any premises. These vacuum cleaners are expensive, since the principle of operation of the cyclone filter vacuum cleaner must be selected carefully.
You should also know that most often industrial devices are used during repair and construction. Leave your workplace need to be clean.

DIY cyclone, made of transparent plastic video


Construction work is carried out after its preparation and surface cleaning. As you understand General cleaning impossible to do with a conventional vacuum cleaner. In other words, it is fraught with damage to the device.
Even small debris, such as: sand, oil, dry mixes, powdered abrasives and wood shavings, is designed only for an industrial vacuum cleaner.
If you suddenly go to choose a vacuum cleaner for construction works, then be sure to specify the types of pollution that it will encounter.
Have you thought about using a vacuum cleaner in repair conditions? Then consider the option of a do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner. There are many examples of how to make this kind of vacuum cleaner.

Do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner

1. In order to make such a vacuum cleaner on your own, you will need a Ural PN-600 vacuum cleaner, a plastic bucket (even out of paint), a pipe 20 cm long and 4 cm in diameter.
2. The nameplate is also unscrewed, and the holes must be sealed.
3. The pipe is quite thick and will not fit into the hole, so you need to grind off the rivets with a grinder and remove the pipe fasteners. Before that, remove the springs with clamps. Wrap electrical tape around the plug and insert onto the plug.
4. At the bottom, make a hole with a drill in the middle. Then expand it to 43 mm with a special tool.
5. Gaskets with a diameter of 4 mm are cut out to seal it.
6. Then you need to fold everything, the bucket lid, gasket, centering pipe.
7. Now we need self-tapping screws 10 mm long and 4.2 mm in diameter. Self-tapping screws will need 20 pieces.
8. From the side of the bucket, cut a hole along the suction pipe. The cutout angle should be 10-15 degrees.
9. We try on and edit the shape of the hole using special scissors that cut through metal.
10. Do not forget that you also need to try on inside. Also leave strips for self-tapping screws from the inside.
11. With a marker, mark the hole in the bucket and cut off the excess material with scissors. Fasten the pipe from the outside to the bucket.
12. To seal everything, use a 30x bandage. From an ordinary first aid kit and glue like "titanium" for foam. Wrap the bandage around the nozzle and saturate with glue. Preferably more than once!
13. While the glue dries, you can check how this vacuum cleaner will work. Turn on the vacuum cleaner and load it by blocking the nozzle with your palm. When checking the operation of the vacuum cleaner, the sealing process and connection with the nozzle are improved. It is unlikely that he will soon become obsolete.
14. Vacuum cleaner is best stored in a case.