Sandy paths at the dacha. How to make garden and country paths with your own hands cheaply and beautifully. Natural stone paths

Provides for the creation of paths. Moreover, the requirements for them are quite serious: they must be reliable, comfortable, functional, beautiful and, very preferably, inexpensive. We’ll talk about how to make garden paths with your own hands at low cost in this article.

What to make paths from

The path surface can be hard or loose. To create a hard coating, the following materials are used:

• Concrete. Concrete walkways are more than just plain gray tape. In addition, there are dyes and you can decorate it if desired. There are also forms for filling immediately on site. It turns out homemade paving slabs. Another option is to pour small concrete slabs yourself the right size, then put them on the bedding. See photos for design examples.

  And everyone in the household has forms for such a path - cut water bottles into cylinders, place them as needed and fill them with solution: beautiful and cheap
  And this is a concrete path with expansion joints. If you look closely, you can see that there are stripes across it. This is to ensure that the wet surface is non-slip.

• Flagstone. This is a natural stone that has been cut into plates. It is laid on a prepared base (more on this later), the gaps are filled with backfill. It turns out beautiful, reliable, non-slip. It’s not for nothing that landscape designers love flagstone paths so much.

  Backfill is one of the important elements, shaping the appearance

• Brick. Ordinary ceramic brick is a beautiful material, but not for paths. It absorbs moisture, and if it then freezes wet, it breaks into pieces. If you are planning to make a path out of broken bricks, then you can walk on it more or less normally only for a couple of years. Then you'll have to redo it. The resulting cracks will need to be filled with coarse sand or fine crushed stone. Clinker bricks will last much longer on the path, but this option cannot be called low-cost: the cost of one piece starts from several tens of rubles.

  These are two types of bricks - ceramic and crushed granite. A clinker brick path is beautiful, to say the least... but maybe too beautiful for a garden?

• Tree. Such a seemingly unsuitable material, but correct processing it can serve for a long time. Moreover, many hand-made wooden paths can be classified as low-cost. For example, they came up with the idea of ​​using stumps and tree cuts as borders or coverings. They also make flooring from well-treated boards - better than a terrace, but if not, an old floor will do.

  The combination with pebbles is comfortable to walk on. And this is how to make a path from boards

• Plastic. There are tiles for garden paths made of plastic - polyethylene or polypropylene. She has square shape and a system of locks that are attached to one another. It can be laid directly on top of the lawn or previously trodden paths in the country house or on a plot of land. This is an option - fast and cheap. It can definitely be called “Low Cost”. It is better, of course, to make the filling according to the rules from crushed stone and sand, and lay plastic elements on top. It's a little longer and more expensive. There is also an immodest, but very nice option plastic tiles for paths. There is also “garden parquet”. These are slabs or boards made of wood-polymer composite - WPC (they are in the photo, they look exactly like parquet). This material appeared relatively recently. It looks and feels like wood, but is essentially a mixture wood flour and polymer. These are very beautiful coatings, but their cost is by no means modest. Although not fabulous.

  This is garden parquet. Gorgeous, but overpriced

• Pebbles. These are rounded natural stones that can be found on the banks of rivers or lakes. Flatter stones are more suitable for making paths. There are different shades of gray, black, white, and sometimes you can find burgundy. These stones, laid close to each other, create amazingly beautiful mosaic paths. But this is an activity for the diligent and persistent. Those who lack patience can find large flat boulders or large pebbles and place them in the sand. It's not as luxurious, but no less reliable. You can do the same with granite or other similar stones. It is important that at least one edge is relatively flat. You put this flat part up, and bury the rest. The work is not easy, but you can not only walk on the path, but also drive.
• Available materials. Country paths are made from old tires and bottles.

There are also paved paths: gravel or crushed stone. Their peculiarity is that with a small layer of 2-3 cm and sufficient compaction, it is comfortable to walk on them. If the layer is slightly larger, unevenness will form when walking, and such walking will be tiring. Therefore, as you have seen in many photographs, gravel and crushed stone are used as backfill, into which rigid elements made of other materials are laid. When done correctly, this is convenient: gravel conducts water well and puddles do not form. For those who don't like it gray, we can advise painting it: many designers do this when organizing rockeries.

How to make garden paths with your own hands

It’s not enough to know what you can make garden paths from with your own hands. You also need to know how to make them correctly so that it lasts for more than one season or two. Laying different materials may differ slightly, but there are several rules and actions that are repeated in any technology.

First rule: When laying or shaping the path surface, it is made with a slight slope. If the material allows, a slope of several centimeters is made on both sides of the center. If, for example, a concrete path is poured, then the slope is formed in one direction - away from the house, if it is nearby. The slope is made towards the lower part of the site if the path is located on a slope.

Second rule: Any coating requires preparation of the base. If you place stones (for example) directly in clay or loam, there will, of course, be benefits - it will definitely be more convenient to walk, but the stones will “silt up” after some time. They will simply trample into clay. When installing a bedding, this will take much more time. And if you add a drainage cushion and a side, water drainage will be even more effective, and everything will look even more beautiful.

Third rule: the level of the path should be a couple of centimeters higher than the adjacent area. Then the water will drain quickly, cleaning will be more convenient, and cleaning will be required less often: the eroded soil will not flow either during rains or during watering, which is often done along the paths.

Step by step instructions

When making garden paths with your own hands, start with markings. In theory, the dimensions and shape should be marked on your site plan, and the markings should be carried out according to the project. But most often everything is done locally. To make the future path more visible, its contours can first be covered with white sand or something similar. If the shape suits you, you can drive in pegs and stretch twine between them, but you can also work on the backfill.

You can place a flower garden or flower bed along a beautiful path. Read how to make them.

Beautiful DIY pebble path

If with flagstone, paving stones, brick, everything is more or less clear - everyone has already seen more than once how this is done, then how to lay pebbles in patterns is not clear.

Below is a photo report on the process of making a pebble path. It shows the basic techniques: lines are drawn onto leveled sand along which pebbles will be laid out. If these are arcs, they are made using thread and two sticks/nails.

When selecting stones, they are laid out on edge close to each other, slightly buried in the sand.

Place a board on the folded pattern, take a rubber mallet and knock on the board, hammering the pebbles into the sand. This is how they deepen the entire pattern, making sure that the edges of the pebbles are at the same height.

Stones are sunk into the sand

Take a mixture of sand and cement (2 parts sand, 1 part cement) and fill the gaps, leveling the layer with a brush.

A fragment of the pebble path is carefully watered with water so that the backfill does not wash away. Wait several hours for the cement to set a little, then remove the excess with a soft brush.

It is important not to miss the moment: the solution should not get dirty, but also become a stone. If you pick at it with your finger, it should crumble. It's time to clean off the excess.

Path made of wooden stumps and crushed stone: video

Old logs or trees can be turned into a beautiful path. The wood is cut into logs of the required length, the face cut is sanded, and all the wood is first treated with a bioprotection compound (you can soak it in waste oil). After drying, dip into Kuzbass varnish and dry again. Then coated with paint desired color the front parts of the stumps - which will protrude outward. They dry it again and only then put it in the sand.

The process is described in detail in the video. Here we explain step by step how to make garden paths from stumps or logs with your own hands.

Making a concrete path yourself

The process is generally similar to that described at the beginning. There are some differences that we'll talk about.

After the trench is dug and the bottom is leveled, formwork is installed along it on both sides. These are boards from 25 mm thick (thicker is possible, thinner is not advisable, you can use plywood 16-18 mm thick). Their height is the height of the track. If you are shaping the slope, the boards should be aligned taking it into account - one side is slightly higher, the other is slightly lower.

The formwork is leveled - the concrete will be leveled against it

To make formwork, pegs are driven into the ground at intervals of no more than 60 cm. Boards are nailed to them. It is better to smear the inner surface of the formwork with mining or other oil: so that it can be removed easily. Next, crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and compacted. But compaction must be done carefully: if you walk along the bottom, no traces should be visible.

Next, to prevent the path from cracking, a metal reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone. The thickness of the rod is 4-6 mm, pitch is 5-10 cm. It is sold in pieces, they need to be tied together with steel wire.

Then, to compensate for the expansion in winter period you need to put wooden planks 1.5-2 cm thick. They are placed across the path, set so that the height of the planks is level with the formwork boards. Compensation strips are installed at least every 2 meters. More often it is possible, less often it is not. Why do it more often? For beauty. Squares look better than long rectangles.

A concrete solution of a grade not lower than M-250 () is poured into the finished frame. For it, take 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone. Everything is mixed into a solution of medium fluidity (thick sour cream) and poured into the formwork. When pouring, you need to make sure that there are no air bubbles left. To remove them, pierce the solution with a pin, shaking it slightly - bayonet it. It is ideal if you have a surface vibrator for concrete - it quickly compacts the solution, creating a perfectly flat surface. If it is not there, you will have to level it using the rule, using the edges of the formwork as beacons.

A few hours later, after the concrete has set, the surface can be treated. You can leave it as is, you can brush it with a stiff brush, making transverse stripes, and finally, you can lay pebbles, stones, flagstone, etc. into the not completely hardened solution. It's not very economical, but it's reliable. After a couple of days, the formwork can be removed, and you can already walk along the path.

Budget track made from tires

They make a lot of things out of tires: swings, and... walkways. It's simple: you need to cut off the sidewalls of an old tire, leaving only the tread. How can I cut it? Bulgarian. Someone manages to use a knife, but this is only if the cord is not metal.

The projector is cut crosswise to create a track. Then cuts of 15 centimeters are made on the sides - depending on the diameter of the tire. They will give you the opportunity to unroll the tires.

They make cuts on the curved edges - the surface is still nonlinear

In this form, it can already be laid on the beds. It will serve for many years. This one is definitely a low cost garden path.

This coating will withstand many years of active use.

As you understand, there are a lot of options on how to make garden paths with your own hands. It’s impossible to tell and describe everything, but we’re trying...

Its entire design largely depends on how the paths on a suburban area are designed. Even in such conditions when it is not possible to perform labor-intensive and expensive work, you can choose more available options, which have been developed and already tested by folk craftsmen.

You can make paths in your dacha with your own hands from a variety of materials by choosing suitable option from those presented below. For example, ordinary bricks or round timber sawn from logs, round, medium-sized pebbles or ordinary plastic bottle caps are perfect for these purposes. There are also removable options for tracks that can be laid exclusively for the summer period. By the way, such paths can also not only be purchased ready-made, but also made independently.

In any case, before laying any garden paths, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

Design on paper

First of all, you need to schematically place the house and outbuildings on the plan, connecting them to each other and paving the way to the entrance gate - these will be the main paths, which in any case cannot be avoided.

Then, you need to plan paths leading from the house to various areas of the site, for example, to a gazebo, swimming pool, playground or zone.

If there is a need, then, having brought the path to the garden or vegetable garden, it is worth branching it in such a way that it is convenient to reach every corner of the site in any weather, since the absence of paths is especially unpleasant for moving on “bare” ground during or immediately after rain .

Once the project has been drawn up, you can transfer it to the site.

Marking on the ground

To determine the width and direction of the paths, it is necessary to mark the area. This is especially important if they are kept in certain widths - for example, laid out from ready-made tiles or bricks.

Marking is carried out using driven pegs and a cord pulled over them. To make it easier to visually estimate what the direction will look like and whether the width of the path is sufficient, each border on the sides can be sprinkled with a little lime.

The best option– if, along with the path, you immediately mark the location of the plants that will frame it, since on the ground everything looks a little different than in the project.

In places where bushes and trees will be planted, which will be located along the path, you can install signs or lay out stones, and mark the boundaries of future flower beds with lime.

It must be remembered that the pit to be torn off must be somewhat wider than the path itself, since in order for it to serve for many years, it must be fenced on both sides with stone or concrete curbs. Whatever material it is planned to build the path from, such a preparatory part will in any case improve the quality of the work and allow the laid path to function for a long time.

Having made the markings, you can begin preparatory excavation work.

Preparing the base for a garden path

To prevent the path from crumbling in a year or becoming overgrown with grass with the same sad outcome, serious preparatory work must be carried out. It must be remembered that the path should have a slight slope in one or both directions. In addition, a small trench is made on the side of the slope into which water will flow during rain.

• First of all, from the places where the path will pass, a fertile layer with a thickness of 15 ÷ 200 mm is removed. To ensure that the depth of the pit is approximately the same along its entire length, it is necessary to control its sides using a ruler.

• Next, in order to maintain the evenness of the edges of the future path, boards are installed inside, along the entire length of the walls of the pit, but it is advisable to first add and compact a little sand under them.
• If the pit is limited by concrete curbs, then their width should be 70 ÷ 100 mm greater than the height of the walls of the pit. The curbs are leveled, and to prevent them from moving, they are fixed with reinforcing bars, which are driven into the ground inside the trench, next to the curbs. The length of the rods should be from 250 to 350 mm, and this segment should be driven in at 200 ÷ 300 mm. The pin remaining above the ground surface will hold the curb in the desired position.

• If the walls of the pit turn out to be uneven due to excessively loose soil, then you will also have to drive reinforcing pins along the walls, and then install curbs, pressing them against them, aligning them and also fixing them on the other side pins.

Filling with gravel or crushed stone to create a “pillow” ...

• Next, crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand or cement is poured into the bottom of the pit. can range from 50 to 100 mm after compaction.

...and careful compaction to maximum density

• After backfilling and distribution throughout the pit, the resulting surface is periodically moistened and thoroughly compacted.

The type of material being poured will largely depend on the overall thickness of the “cushion”, on the type of upper decorative covering. Also, do not forget that between the “cushion” and the top lining, most often there should still be a layer of sand.

Types of garden paths for a suburban area

As mentioned above, paths can be made of different materials. It is worth considering the installation of some of them in order to accurately determine the choice of the most suitable option.

brick path

Brick makes a fairly reliable, durable and aesthetic path. It is laid, in principle, using the same technology as paving slabs or. In order for such a path to last a long time, you need to choose high-quality clinker bricks and carry out work very neat.

• The base for the path, with a compacted top layer of sand, needs to be well leveled using a homemade rule.

The rule is made from boards with perfectly even and smooth end sides. The board should be 200 mm longer than the width of the path. The corners of the bottom of the board are cut to the thickness of the brick. Upper, longer, uncut parts the boards will serve as a stop and limiter when leveling the sand layer.

• When the entire sand layer is leveled, you can begin installing the side bricks in the path, which are installed on the edge and driven half-width into the sand with a rubber hammer.

Laying and driving in a line of “border” bricks

• If the path is not designed with a border, then the side bricks are fastened together with mortar, and after it hardens and is removed, they must be fixed with outside reinforcement pins, and then arrange a backfill of crushed stone, which will need to be carefully compacted.
• After installing the side bricks on both sides of the path, you need to decide what pattern will be laid out in the middle of the path. The brick can be installed on the end or laid on its wide side.

• To make the masonry rigid, you need to lay one row along and the other across the path, driving the bricks into the sand at the same height as the framing ones. However, in order for the path to be as reliable as possible, it is recommended to fasten the bricks together with a glue solution on cement based, intended for street work- this will also reduce the risk of grass growing into the cracks between the bricks.

It is advisable to place the solution in such a way that it does not protrude from above, but remains inside the masonry, which means that not too much of it will be required.

• After completing the laying of the path, the gaps between the bricks are filled with sand. To do this, it is poured onto the path and distributed with a long-haired brush, first over one area, then in another - and so on until all the gaps are completely filled.

The remaining excess sand is swept off the surface with the same brush.

• Next, when the path is almost ready, the formwork from the boards is removed from its sides. Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured along the outer edge of the path and carefully compacted, and another layer of crushed stone is freely poured on top of it.
• To brighten the color and prolong its service life, it is recommended to treat the brick with a penetrating primer, and after it dries, coat it with varnish that is suitable for stone in outdoor conditions.

With some assumption, a type of such paths can be considered those that are laid out from thick. How the process occurs is shown in detail in the video.

Prices for paving stones

Paving stones

Video: master class on laying a garden path

Round timber path

Option #1

To “pave” the path with posts, you need to take a dried tree of one of the hardwoods. The round wood must have a flat surface, so sawing them must be done very carefully.

Then the surface of the stumps is cleaned and leveled.

• To construct a path, logs of different diameters are taken so that the space in the pit can be filled as tightly as possible.

The height of the round timber should be twice the height of the walls of the pit, counting from compacted crushed stone, that is, the columns should rise above the surface of the soil located around the future path by 100 ÷ 130 mm.

• When the log blanks are prepared, it is necessary to treat their lower part with an antiseptic, which will protect the wood from biological pests and negative impact ground moisture onto it.

This is best done by placing the hemp one by one in a container with liquid and leaving for 3 ÷ 4 minutes. The rest of the surface is simply applied with a wide brush. Before installing paths in the pit, the round timber is thoroughly dried.

• After drying, the hemp is dipped in “Kuzbass varnish” for a few seconds - it will perfectly protect the wood from moisture. However, the disadvantage of this composition is that its structure is destroyed by exposure to ultraviolet rays and overheating. However, if only the lower part of the stumps is treated with it, which will be covered by the pit wall, sand, geotextiles and crushed stone, then such destructive effects do not threaten.

A replacement for varnish can be ordinary heated tar, which, when cooled, forms a fairly dense film on the surface of the stumps - it is not afraid of any high temperature, nor sunlight.

• Prepared round timber from trunks of different diameters begins to be installed on compacted on the bottom pit crushed stone as follows:

— A small amount of sand is poured onto the transverse wall of the pit at the beginning of the path.

— Then, the first row of round timber is installed. It must be carefully selected in size so that it fits as tightly as possible.

— Sand is poured between the logs to the level of the top of the pit walls.

— Similar cyclical manipulations continue until the end of the path.

• Along the edge of the path, a sandy border is filled and compacted.

Option No. 2

Another option using round stumps, which is installed in combination with crushed stone or gravel.

In this case, only a curb is assembled from stumps, and the remaining stages of work with removing soil, adding sand and installing stumps to the walls of the pit are carried out in the same way as a path made entirely of logs. The process takes place in the following sequence:

• A “cushion” of sand is poured and compacted at the bottom of the pit;
• Then, along the edge of the future path, stumps are installed, which are driven in at one level and sprinkled with sand. The sand bedding is compacted directly near the bottom of the stumps;
• After the borders of logs are completely laid out, geotextiles are laid on the entire surface of the path, the edges whom bent onto stumps by 80 ÷ 100 mm;

• The next step is to make an embankment of gravel or mid-fraction crushed stone directly onto geotextiles;

The gravel embankment is distributed over the entire area of ​​the path in an even layer. If necessary, the layer is increased, since it should be equal in height to the ground level of the entire site.

The gravel layer should act as a second retaining wall for the stumps in the border.

• If the tops of the stumps have a different color, and you want to achieve harmony in the design of the path, then they can be coated with paint intended for external work, and the shade in this case is selected to the taste of the owner of the site.

Path made of round river stones

For those who value originality - a mosaic path made of river stone

Paths with amazing curls are made from Altai river stone, which has bluish shades, from very light to dark gray-blue. To make such a wonderful path, you need to prepare round and oval smooth stones of different sizes, clean sand, a rubber or wooden hammer, cement, a sponge, a level, and, of course, water.

Preparatory work pass in almost the same way as when constructing a brick path, but with slight deviations.

The whole process begins with sorting the stones, as they may have small defects. If the flaw is not too large, then it can be hidden by turning the stone with its even side up.

Having sorted through the stones, you need to choose a pattern that is suitable in size to the width of the path, the base for which has already been prepared. If you don’t find a suitable one, then you can easily compose it yourself, using squares as a basis for a design, into which curlicue shells will fit perfectly.

Option #1

• The drawing from the sketch is transferred to the prepared base. The curl must be placed in the marked square, and it is desirable that this square has all four sides sides, which will not allow the mosaic to fall apart.

Since the base is made of crushed stone, the marking can be done with lime.

• The next step is to mix sand with cement, approximately 3:1 or 4:1, add water and make a thick mixture, from which a side with a width equal to the length of the pebbles is laid out according to the markings. The stripes are arranged in small areas to make it easier to level stones in them.
• An oval stone with rounded edges is folded into a small path - it is placed on the side and slightly pressed into the solution.

If the solution has already hardened a little, then to level all the stones, you can knock on them with a rubber hammer.

• When one of the strips is laid out, its evenness must be checked using a building level - there should be no strong protrusions above the general level of the track.

• So, looking at your sketch, row by row, they lay out a similar stone mosaic. It can use both small oval smooth stones, installed on an edge, and round ones, if they fit well into the pattern being created.

• In addition, you can use different shades of stones, for example, laying out one strip with light stones, another with dark ones, or making a smooth color transition.
• Depending on the intended design, the stones can be installed in height. The main thing is to maintain constant control using a level.

• After one of the parts of the mosaic is laid out, it is watered with water using a sprayer. This will not only strengthen the hardening solution, but will also wash away excess of it from the surface of the mosaic.

• So, dividing the drawing into separate parts, gradually, in accordance with the sequence thought out in advance, they lay out the entire plane allocated for the mosaic. As a result, it should be densely filled with stones.

Option No. 2

Another option can be called simpler, since the stones are placed immediately in leveled wet sand, without the use of cement.

However, so that the created composition does not fall apart ahead of time, it must be laid out in limited space. For this purpose, installed borders with temporary partitions can serve, since the mosaic is laid out in parts, or a kind of formwork made of boards, which is removed only after compacting each of the parts.

• So, on a base with compacted crushed stone, curbs are placed and leveled, as well as temporary partitions that will limit the area of ​​work being carried out.
• Next, wet sand is poured into the resulting form, compacted and leveled with a rule. The height of the sand cushion should be 20 ÷ 30 mm below the sides of the curb or formwork - this is exactly the height at which the stones will remain on the surface, and the laid mosaic will need to be leveled along the curb.

Lines are drawn along the leveled sand surface along which the stone mosaic will be laid.

• It’s more convenient to lay out the stones not one at a time, but immediately put them in a path and, tapping on top with a rubber mallet, deepen them until the required level. If necessary, the sand must be additionally moistened.

While carrying out work, the height of the stones must be constantly monitored using.

• Having laid out a certain section of the mosaic, until the sand has dried, you need to go over the entire surface again with a rubber hammer, and then you need to pour more dry sand or a mixture of sand and cement on top. The excess of such backfill must then be immediately swept away with a brush.

• After the laid surface has completely dried, you can brush the surface again.

After a few hours, the sand will compact and sink slightly between the stones. After this, you need to repeat the procedure with bedding and splashing.

• After the mosaic dries again, all the stones are washed with a wet sponge.

• The entire composition is moistened with water every day for a week - this is necessary for the path to “gain hardness”.
• If work is being done When installing a mosaic in an open space, then in order to avoid its erosion by rain, it is best to cover the entire composition with thin foam rubber at night. It will allow water to pass through, but will not allow sand to wash out.
• If the work was carried out in formwork made of boards, after completing the masonry and its temporary fencing, it is necessary to strengthen the path by covering it with stones or bricks in the form of a border.

concrete path

For a concrete path, marking is done in the same way as described above, and then soil is excavated along the marked area.

Then, sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit, which is moistened and compacted. The final thickness of the compacted layer should be 60 ÷ 70 mm.

Crushed stone is poured on top of the compacted sand, which also needs to be compacted.

A reinforcing grid is installed on the crushed stone, which will make the path much stronger.

Then, you can do one of two ways, depending on what kind of track you want to get.

1. If a flat surface is to be obtained, then a thin one is made, which is used to fill the formwork.

— In the case when concrete is poured into the space between already installed curbs, the rule will need to be made independently, and it should have the same basic form as the one described in the section on leveling sand when constructing a brick path.

— The finished path is reinforced with iron. To do this, dry cement is sprinkled onto a still damp surface in a thin layer, which is immediately rubbed in gently using grout. Commercially available strengthening topping mixtures can also be used.

2. If the path is planned to be made using a form that helps imitate stone laying, then the concrete mixture is poured into the formwork in two layers.

— The first layer is poured to half the height of the formwork and also leveled using the rule. In this case, a rough mortar consisting of cement and gravel is used. The surface should be fairly level, and to achieve this, it is recommended to install beacons of the required height and level the concrete along them.

— After the concrete has set, a form is placed on its surface and filled with a thin solution. It is leveled on the surface of the mold. The form filled with concrete is left to harden for 3 ÷ 5 days.

Curly shapes to achieve the effect of a “paved path”

If there is only one form, then the work, of course, will take too long, so when using such technology it is advisable to have at least two similar forms at your disposal. It should be noted that with their help you can design not only paths, but also the floor in the gazebo, the area near the gate or near the garage.

Prices for cement and basic mixtures

Cement and base mixtures

Video: example of using a form to fill a “paved” path

Garden paths made from lids

A very interesting version of the track - it turns out that it can be made from caps from ordinary plastic bottles. Thanks to their bright, varied colors, they can be used to create various ornamental designs that will help decorate the garden landscape.

The only difficulty that will come across on the path of a master who decides to make this work will be collecting required quantity these “mosaic elements” of the future path.

Having decided to do this work, you need to start collecting the lids in advance. While the drilling process is going on, you can think about what pattern to choose for the path and draw up a rough sketch of it.

You should not wait until the required number of covers for the entire length of the path is completely assembled. Having collected a certain number of them, you can begin to assemble elements of the future canvas from them. For example, to assemble the fragment shown in the photo, you will need only 19 caps.

A large number of caps are usually found on the beach in the summer. And by the way, you can get triple benefits from the collection process:

- at least slightly clean the beach sand from foreign objects;

- breathe fresh air while walking on the beach;

- get the material for making the path completely free of charge.

• To connect the covers in desired drawing, you will need a “gypsy” needle, an awl, always with a wooden handle, and a large amount of fishing line. A wooden handle is needed because the awl will have to be heated over a fire so that holes can be easily made in the lids to fasten them together.
• Holes for the passage of a needle are pierced on the sides of the covers, as shown in the photo above.
• First, individual elements are assembled according to the prepared sketch , and when several of them are ready, they are connected to each other.
• The work of assembling the elements of such a track is quite long and painstaking, but it does not require T ore-intensive preparation of the base associated with excavation or concrete work.

If you have the material and the necessary diligence and patience, you can “pave” fairly large areas

• When the mat of lids is completely ready, the place for it is prepared as follows:

- marked space for installation, sprayed with weed killer;

- then, a prepared mat of lids is placed on it;

— so that less soil falls on the surface of the path during operation, it is recommended to install a border made of brick or stone along the path;

- to do this, the top soil is removed to a depth of approximately two-thirds of the brick, and then the space of the trench is filled halfway with sand, into which the brick is placed at an angle and tapped. The side gaps between the soil and the brick are also filled with sand, which is moistened in advance.

Prefabricated paths made of plastic slabs

Mobile garden paths can be laid quickly, without arranging a base for them, using special plastic panels.

From them you can assemble a path of any width, since they have fastenings that will allow you to connect them both along and across.

The connecting elements, which are quite large in size, impart rigidity to the structure, since every two plates are fastened in two places and serve as a kind of support legs.

The advantage of such slab panels is not only the speed of installation, but also the fact that their surface is absolutely non-slippery, such paths can withstand quite heavy loads, and they are very durable in use.

For the manufacture of plates, frost-resistant plastic is used, which can withstand not only low temperatures up to - 35÷40, but also high up to + 45÷50 degrees. However, there is no particular point in leaving such a garden path for the winter - if desired, it can be quickly and easily disassembled, stacked and sent for storage in one of the outbuildings. The tiles will not take up much space, and in the spring the path will not be so difficult to lay out again as soon as possible anywhere in the area.

The tile has a very convenient size for working with it - it is 570 × 570 mm in width and length, and its thickness is 22 mm.

In addition, the convenience of such tiles also lies in the fact that water does not accumulate on them, since there are longitudinal holes on the surface.

By the way, in the winter you can lay out a rug from such tiles in front of front door— its surface is corrugated, which means it will not allow you to slip and get injured.

This option for arranging garden paths does not require much effort for installation, since the tiles can be laid both on and on the soil surface. If grass begins to grow through the holes in the tiles, the path can easily be moved or disassembled, and after getting rid of the grass, it can be collected and put back in place.

"Garden parquet"

“Garden parquet” is quite expensive type of material that They are used not only for laying on the site, but also for decorating floors in gazebos, verandas, terraces and balconies.

Expensive, but very cool - “garden parquet”

It has characteristics similar to plastic plates. This option is excellent for laying on garden paths - “garden parquet” is also quickly assembled and disassembled, since it has special fastenings for this, which have their own specific features.

Fastening "garden parquet" tiles

Detailed panels may have different arrangements of the elements that make up its design. They are laid on compacted gravel mixture or fine crushed stone.

Laying garden parquet will never take much time

This “parquet” is made from wood that has been treated in a special way and does not react to ordinary external “irritants” - it is not afraid of humidity, direct sun rays, temperature changes, biological effects. However, in addition to wood, for the manufacture of “garden parquet” (relatively inexpensive models), special plastic is used, which perfectly imitates natural wood. It is clear that the second option of parquet flooring is much more accessible to the average property owner

So, there are a very large number of country paths. After careful review, you can always choose one that is suitable in terms of price, design and complexity of doing all the work yourself. Therefore, if the time comes to plan a site, you need to carefully think through all the nuances and calculate your strengths and capabilities.

Video: Variety of options for garden paths

When deciding on the installation of garden paths with your own hands at low cost, you must first decide on the following points that will have a direct impact on the organization, cost and progress of the work:

• planning and marking;
• selection of material for paving the path on the site;
• choice of base and material laying technology;
• determining the need for additional measures to increase the service life of the coating.

All four points are largely technologically interconnected. For example, the use of durable natural stone eliminates the need for a number of works to provide additional protection, and the installation of a concrete base increases the stability of the coating and makes it possible to lay softer and thinner slabs.

Drawing up a location plan

Work on paving paths and platforms on a summer cottage should begin with drawing up a plan. This will help you make your choice necessary materials, calculate their number and volume of work. With a plan in hand, you can estimate future financial costs and compare them with your ability to pay.

Take a plan of your site with buildings, trees, bushes, fencing and gates marked on it. Draw how you are going to make your own garden paths.

It should be taken into account that the paths should be no closer than 1.5 meters from the trees, and their minimum width should be 0.7 meters. Surface slopes should not direct rainwater towards buildings.

Paving materials

Gravel.

What can you use to make paths at your dacha for cheap? Most of us want the coating to be beautiful, durable and affordable at the same time. We advise you not to limit yourself to one option, but to choose material according to the situation.

So, it makes sense to pave the area near a private house with paving slabs from natural stone or colored concrete, and make the paths in the garden from parquet or plastic. At your summer cottage, you can also quite successfully use a backfill made of small crushed stone or. The most important thing is that you are satisfied with the combination of price, practicality and appearance.

Natural stone

Natural stone.

Construction of country paths using materials from is the most durable and beautiful option. However, it is very difficult to call their use economical. The main types of natural stone slabs are made from basalt, limestone, sandstone, slate or labradorite. Shungite, granite and marble are used less often, due to their high cost. The configuration of piece products can have strict geometric or irregular shapes of various sizes.

The choice of colors and shades of natural stone varies from white and yellow to dark blue and black. Some types of stone have patterns in their structure, the presence and color of which depend on the impurities in the source material. Natural surface paving slabs can be polished, rough or unevenly rough.

The main advantages of paths paved with natural stone include:

• high mechanical strength;
• durability and frost resistance;
• beautiful appearance;
• wide selection of textures and shapes.

The main disadvantage of such a path on a summer cottage is the high cost. In addition, granite, shungite, marble, labradorite and some other hard materials are difficult to process, which can complicate the process of laying them.

Clinker brick

This is a special type of brick, which, due to its increased density, does not absorb moisture and is excellent for making paths in the countryside with your own hands. Ordinary wall bricks are usually not used for coatings of this kind. Available colors can be yellow, white, brown and red, which allows you to create original color patterns.

The use of clinker bricks for laying requires the presence of borders. They can be made from the same bricks, laying them at an angle “on edge,” or you can use ready-made concrete products. In this case, the installation of the curb must be done flush with the surface of the path, which ensures best stock rainwater.

The main advantages of brick coating are affordable price and durability. The disadvantages include the mandatory presence of a cement base for laying and the need to carefully seal the seams between the bricks.

Paving slabs and paving stones made of colored concrete

Paving slabs.

Colored concrete pavement tiles are made from a high-quality mixture using the . In the first case, piece products have higher strength and frost resistance, but poorer color palette. Vibro-cast tiles are more colorful and cost less, but are not as durable.

This material can rightfully be considered the most popular solution to the question of how to lay out paths in the country. You can not only purchase it in a store, but also make it yourself, in quantities sufficient for paving any area in your personal plot.

The advantages of colored concrete paving stones are their affordable price, appearance, strength and durability. The disadvantage of such a path in the garden is the need for additional treatment of the road surface in order to protect it from moisture.

Pouring into concrete molds at the installation site

Pouring concrete into forms.

Due to the simplicity of the technology in form and the low costs of its implementation, garden paths from concrete mixture very popular among private developers. This solution can easily be called an economical option. Moreover, the surface of such paths in the garden resembles tiled masonry. It is beautiful and durable. In the case of high-quality sealing of seams and a technologically competent foundation, it is possible to neutralize the main risk for surfaces made of this material - the germination of weeds and plants.

You can buy forms for making garden paths with your own hands at any building materials store. Manufacturers claim that only one modular form is enough for work, maximum two (for large volumes of work). The service life of this paving is 10-15 years. To give the concrete surface a more aesthetic appearance, it can be coated liquid glass, paint or special varnish solutions.

Modular rubber plates

Modular rubber plates.

To be fair, these modular slabs cannot be called purely rubber. They are made from polymers and crumb rubber, which is obtained by grinding car tires, ensuring homogeneity of the mass during temperature sintering. The result is durable, moisture-resistant and durable material.

Fixation in place is ensured by sleeve connections. The covering assembled from this material is a single rubber carpet of the required length and width. A special feature of such tracks is their exceptional ease of assembly. The slabs can be laid on a small sand cushion, after first removing a small top layer of soil.

Base for rubber tiles.

The service life of the material at temperatures -45° +65°C is at least 10 years. This is a completely waterproof material. It is not susceptible to mold, mildew, insects or rodents. It is allowed to reuse such garden paths by moving them to a new location.

Polymer sand paving slabs

This type of paving surface is obtained by molding a mixture of heated to the melting point polymer materials and fine sifted sand. The amount of sand varies between 60-70%. This technology makes it possible to obtain polymer paving slabs with a low coefficient of thermal expansion.

This material is comparable to rubber slabs, but the polymer-sand coating is much harder and more durable. To improve the appearance of the tiles, dyes are often added to the mixture, and white river sand is also used. Due to its exceptional strength, this material can be used anywhere.

Photo of a road made from saw cuts.

Positive qualities include beautiful appearance, durability, frost resistance, affordable cost and ease of installation. The disadvantage is the novelty of the material and its low prevalence.

Wood

How to make paths in a dacha in such a way as to create an eco-style atmosphere? Use . It is affordable and looks beautiful, especially after special processing. To arrange wooden paths, decking boards laid on timber are most often used, as well as saw cuts - transverse sections of trunks and large branches.

The material is not durable unless it is subjected to special pre-treatment to protect it from moisture. It is better to use as cuts hard rocks wood (for example, oak, larch or aspen).

Terrace board.

Typically, the length of the cuts is at least 35-40 cm, so that part can be buried in the ground to increase stability. The optimal diameter is within 10-15 cm, but in general the size ranges are not limited by anything and depend only on the type of wood and your capabilities.

The decking board is laid across the path on wooden beam, which must be treated with a bitumen composition. The timber is fastened to metal stakes made of reinforcement. The board is nailed down.

Path construction works

So, we have come to how to properly make a road in a country house. The full scope of sidewalk construction work may include:

1. marking;
2. earthworks;
3. installation of a drainage layer;
4. foundation device;
5. laying tiles;
6. finishing works.

Here is a complete list of works, but for some types of materials this list may be shorter.

Track markings

Excavation work and marking with pegs.

To carry out the work of marking a path in a dacha with your own hands, you will need wooden or metal pegs, which need to be driven along the edge of the paths in accordance with a previously drawn up plan and planned design. When installing a curb, the width of the markings increases accordingly by their thickness. A clearly visible cord is pulled over the hammered pegs. After this, check again that the layout is correct.

Earthworks

Excavation work when constructing paths in a dacha includes removing the top layer of soil and digging a trench. Its depth should accommodate all subsequent bulk layers so that the surface of the coating is at a height of 3-4 cm above the level of the adjacent soil. If fertile soil is planned to be delivered to the work site in the future, the volume of excavation work is significantly reduced.

Backfilling the drainage layer

For effective removal of penetrating surface waters And groundwater During the spring rise, drainage is arranged. It is a layer of crushed stone or gravel poured onto a non-woven bedding laid out along the bottom of the trench. Recommended layer thickness is 10-15 cm.

To ensure that the non-woven fabric is not damaged by the sharp edges of the stones, it is initially necessary to pour a layer of sand 3-4 cm thick onto the textile. After filling the trench, gravel or crushed stone must be well compacted so that there is no subsidence in the future. Sprinkle the top layer of stone with sand as well.

Installation of border

Installing a curb.

Curbs are used to more clearly define the boundaries of the path in the yard. They are usually installed after filling the drainage layer. Concrete and brick with cement mortar. Plastic materials secured with standard fasteners or metal pins.

You can use paving stones as a border. In this case, it is necessary to add additional sand under it. The best option for installing such a fence would be to exceed it by 3-4 cm above the level of the path. To ensure that water does not linger on the surface of the coating after rain, small gaps must be left in the curb fence at regular intervals.

After laying tiles or paving stones, the curbs must be covered with earth from the adjacent soil.

Base structure

To lay paving slabs you need, which can be done:

• made of concrete, for all types of paving slabs of regular geometric shape and wooden coverings from terrace boards;
• from a dry cement-sand mixture, for all tiles and slabs of regular geometric shape, including polymer-sand and concrete molded;
• in the form of a compacted sand cushion, for slabs irregular shape or thick ones made of natural stone, paving stones and wood cuts.

The concrete base for the decking board covering can be made not as a continuous layer, but in the form of transverse stripes every 0.8-1.2 meters. It is enough just to provide support for the longitudinal beam.

Scheme of a tile path.

Concrete foundation is the strongest, but also the most expensive. To install it, after installing the curbs, the drainage layer is covered with geotextile over the entire width of the trench with a slight overlap on the walls. After this, a layer of concrete mixture is poured, not reaching the top of the curb by a tile thickness of +5 cm. A five-centimeter reserve is needed for the layer of glue under the tile and the excess of the edge of the curb above the surface of the path.

The concrete surface must be well leveled using a plaster rule or a wide spatula. A building level should be used to check slopes. The hardening time of the concrete mixture is 72 hours. Laying tiles on the path can only be done after this time has passed.

The components of the concrete mixture for pouring include cement, gravel and sand in a ratio of 1:4:3. To obtain better plasticity of the mixture, it is recommended to add liquid detergent, which will be consumed 2-4 times more.

Scheme of the concrete foundation.

A dry cement-sand mixture is also a strong and reliable foundation. The fact is that over time, the cement will harden instead of the coating laid on it, becoming one with it. Using a dry mixture is cheaper, since in the end you will not need to install the tiles with special glue.

To construct it, the drainage layer is covered with geotextile, on top of which a layer of sand 5-7 cm thick is poured. The sand is compacted. After this, a mixture of dry cement and sand is prepared in a concrete mixer in a ratio of 1:4. Next, I pour the mixture into the trench, compact it, level it, and lay the paving material directly on this surface.

A simple sand cushion is used to install wooden saw cuts, paving stones and large slabs of irregular geometric shape. These materials are securely fixed in the sand, ensuring the stability of the path's shape. Non-woven textiles should also be laid between the sand cushion and the drainage layer. This will prevent the germination of weeds and ensure water drainage without washing away the base.

Laying tiles

Paving slabs on a concrete base require a special glue mixture. Before this, the concrete surface of the base is primed and completely dried.

It is recommended to lay the first row of tiles along the curb for a length of 1 meter. After this - one row across the path and, focusing on the result obtained, fill 1 square meter. surfaces. Then you should continue in the same way, moving forward and filling the path one square at a time.

Laying options.

Alignment in height is carried out using an adhesive layer, which should not be thicker than 3 cm. If it turns out more, then the glue is applied in 2 layers, with a gap in time. Trimming tiles can be done using a grinder and a diamond wheel.

With a cement-sand base, the tiles are laid directly on it, with obligatory tapping (planting) with a rubber hammer. If during the inspection it was revealed that the tile sits low, then it is removed and the dry mixture is poured in its place.

It is better to start laying with such a foundation from the middle of the path. This will allow you to withstand side slopes, and you will end up with cut stone only at the edges.

The use of a sand cushion is effective when laying large slabs of irregular shape and wooden cuts, i.e. materials with large seams-gaps between individual elements. The saw cuts are simply buried in the sand, and the slabs are laid out on the sandy surface.

Laying stone on sand.

Laying paving stones on a sandy surface is allowed only if there are curbs. In this case, the correct track geometry will be maintained for a long time.

Final work

At this stage, the seams are sealed to protect against moisture penetration under the coating. Apply protective coatings, wash or clean the surface, and clean the area. The simplest one is to use cement-sand mortar. It is a little more difficult to fill them with liquid cement. It is used to cover concrete and other tiles. They do not allow moisture to penetrate into the material. At this point, we consider the question of how to make a garden path at the dacha with your own hands closed. Good luck!

Paths should be in every garden. Their presence makes it easy to navigate and move freely around the territory. Make garden paths with your own hands, with minimal costs, will not be difficult. The instructions, photos and videos of this article will help you realize your plans. Look how many ideas and a variety of inexpensive, improvised materials there are on this topic.

Do-it-yourself concrete paths at the dacha

Concrete is most often used for arranging paths and pavement around the house. This traditional material accessible and cheap. Anyone can make classic cast paths from it with their own hands.

1. Start by marking the boundaries. Mark the outline with wire or fishing line tied to stakes driven into the corners.

2. Within the specified boundaries, make a trench 25-30 cm deep, with a slope of 3-4% in the transverse direction from the axis of the path or in both directions.

3. Level the bottom of the trench and lay it with a load-bearing layer of gravel. Pour a 5 cm layer of sand over it. Compact each layer with a tamper.

4. Prepare the formwork by installing a metal or lumber frame around the perimeter. An edged board with a cross section of 25*150*6 mm is good for this purpose.

5. Reinforce the body of the future path, use a chain-link mesh or other metal elements(pieces of wire, old water pipes).

6. Insert dividing partitions or special cellular forms treated with a protective solution into the formwork. This will save the concrete from cracking when drying and give the path a decorative relief.

7. Prepare the solution:

• cement (not lower than M 500) – 4 kg;
• sand – 6 kg;
• gravel – 13 kg;
• water – 1.9 l.

You should get a plastic semi-liquid consistency. It is advisable to add a plasticizer and concrete hardening accelerator. To give the mixture the desired color (brick, stone), experiment with color.

8. Pour concrete into the formwork trough flush with the edge. Spread evenly with a spatula using a vibrating motion. Pierce (pierce) the mixture with a metal rod (reinforcement) to make it homogeneous.

Advice! To improve adhesion to the base, lay the solution on damp sand, crushed stone, gravel.

9. Finally level the surface of the filled path using the rule. Carry out the procedure for filling and forming the body of the track sequentially. Move from one dividing rail to another, from one loading form to another, gradually.

10. Cover the path with polyethylene, which will prevent the solution from drying out quickly. Concrete takes 3-4 days to gain strength, during which time moisten it with water. This will prevent cracking and give the concrete additional strength.

To achieve even more decorative effect, into the not completely set surface, various components are “sunk”: pebbles, colored glass, shell rock. The path is given relief by various strokes, grooves, and imprints. And to imitate antiquity, as if the path was overgrown with moss, kefir or milk is added to the solution.

Garden paths made of bricks and paving stones - diagram, layers, execution

Durable and inexpensive material for the production of garden coverings - facing brick or paving stones. This material is resistant to frost and abrasion. Brick is less durable due to its greater porosity. However, he has decorative look and is available in several shapes and colors. In addition to the natural dark red color, there is brown, red, brown, anthracite, and white. The brick path can be easily laid in the form of an arc, or a herringbone pattern, which significantly improves spatial perception plot.

Advice! When laying paving stones, keep in mind that for paving walking paths or terraces would be better suited paving stones ~ 4 cm thick. And on paths with intense traffic, use cubes ~ 6 cm thick.

Laying a paving stone path

Begin by removing the top layer of soil to a depth that will allow you to lay down all the layers of pavement until the last layer of pavers is level with the ground surface. More often, this depth is 20-40 cm.

Important! The base for paving stones is the basis for proper installation. This is the layer responsible for uniformly transferring the load from the surface of the paving stones to the ground. It also acts as a drainage layer that protects against the effects of precipitation and negative temperatures.

Making a base for paving stones - 3 important rules

In order for the base under the paving stones to perform its function properly for a long time, its design and manufacture occurs according to the rules.

1. Thickness of the base layer. We are talking about the correct ratio of the thickness of the base layer for the planned load of the paving stone surface. On paths, a base with a thickness of 10-20 cm is more often used. In the case of surfaces on which heavy traffic is planned, the base is increased to 25-40 cm.

2. Foundation material. The base under the paving stones must be permeable to water, allowing it to quickly pass through to be drained into the ground. To make a drainage layer of the base, use: gravel, crushed stone, slag, or a mixture of sand and gravel.

3. Laying the base layers. To ensure uniform laying and compaction of the base under the paving stones, lay the material in layers 10 cm thick. Be sure to compact each layer, this will prevent possible subsidence in the future.

Attention! If the soil under the foundation has low water permeability, it may be necessary to use an additional drainage layer of geotextile.

Making a sand “pillow”

Create a frame for the future path, similar to the type of formwork used. In the resulting trough, make a backfill of sand. Its task is to introduce and fix individual structural elements. Layer thickness ~ 3-5 cm. For greater strength, sand is mixed with dry concrete in a ratio of 3:1. However, this kind of material makes later repair work difficult. Level the scree with a wooden lath. Wet the layer of sand until a liquid “mush” forms.

Laying brick paving stones

The procedure consists of placing one element after another, in the “away” direction. At the same time, lightly tapping the top of the brick/stone with a rubber hammer or mallet allows the elements to be planted into a sandy base.

Surface fixation

The final stage of work consists of sprinkling work surface quartz sand, which fills the gaps between the cubes, expands and gives solidity to the structure. The action is repeated several times. In between, the sand is abundantly wetted with water and swells. The excess is squeezed out, dried and removed with a whisk. A dense, cemented packing remains between the bricks.

Stone garden paths

Paths made of wild stone are durable and elegant. Their natural texture and various shades of color are perfect for any setting and look good in combination with other materials.

Granite flagstone is most often used. This is a hard and very durable material. It is not harmed by water and frost. Popular colors are gray, red, beautiful pink-red granite. Basalt (black), porphyry (gray-red-brown stone), syenite (gray, almost black), as well as travertine, gabbro, and diabase have similar properties. Sandstone or shale in different variations looks attractive.

In the garden, among the greenery, informal paths made of mosaic laid stone slabs look great. In the spaces between them, grass or low-growing, creeping plants are sown, for example: alyssum, iberis, sedum.

Laying method stone material similar to those described above and depends on the location, purpose of the path and the permeability of the soil underneath it. On well-drained lands with low operational load, stone garden paths are laid on a 5-10 cm layer of mortar made of sand or gravel/crushed stone, cement, in a ratio of 1:12.

However, there are a number of problems associated with the use of field stone:

1. Irregular natural forms. The stones are difficult to pick up and coordinate with each other. Creating a perfectly flat plane is also problematic. This makes it difficult for, for example, garden equipment to move over them.

2. The stone draws moisture from the ground. Therefore, it is often overgrown with moss and lichen. It is also easily susceptible to stains that are difficult to remove. To prevent this, wild stone is treated with a silicone or resin-based compound (Dynasil, Lithofin) at least once every 3 years. These products form a protective layer without creating a slippery surface. At the same time, they clog pores and give the effect of a “wet stone” without changing its natural color.

Garden paths made of paving slabs

The functional coating of this material is unparalleled. The price of the material is not exorbitant, and laying tiles with your own hands is easy to do.

There are antique-style tiles that imitate stone pavement and cut granite or raw sandstone. There are high-strength clinker tiles obtained by single firing. Elements reminiscent of boards, wooden sidewalks, or old railroad sleepers are made from colored and textured concrete.

The collections of trading companies contain elements of different thicknesses and shapes: square and rectangular. Thin 3-5 cm are used for paving decorative paths, thicker tiles are used for cladding entrances.

Making paving slabs with your own hands has become popular. Suitable molds for making castings can be purchased everywhere today. They are made from high-quality, durable plastic, laminate, and also wooden ones. Designed for repeated use. Various sizes, designs, shapes, prices. The surface of the casting can be smooth or patterned.

The preparation of the filler solution is carried out according to the technology described above.

Paving slabs are quite heavy, so a solid foundation is needed for them. It is recommended to do two layers:

• leveling layer (sand, crushed stone, 10-15 cm);
• retaining layer (mixture of sand and cement, 3-4 cm).

The thicker the frame layer, the more stable the coating - the slabs will not move!

You should be careful when cleaning the tiles in winter - it is better not to beat off the ice with sharp tools, as the outer layer will be damaged.

Wooden garden paths - ideas, implementation

Wooden paths in the garden are not so resistant to weather conditions, like stone or concrete, but they always attract attention with their naturalness, environmental cleanliness and high decorative aesthetics.

DIY garden paths made from wood cuts

The path lined with wooden round timber looks original. Best tree for this work - oak or larch. Their solid and weather-resistant structure “survives” for decades. Remains unchanged without impregnation, due to large quantity tannins. Pine and spruce, unfortunately, are less durable.

1. Cutting wood. From the trunks and branches of an old tree, cut fragments with a diameter of 10-40 cm and a height of 15-25 cm. The optimal ratio of large pieces (25-40 cm) to small ones (10-15 cm) should be 3:1. Since the cuts are round and form large spaces between themselves, different diameters the cuts complement each other during subsequent installation.

2. Remove the bark and dry the workpieces for several days in the sun.

3. To protect the wood, be sure to soak the cuts with an antiseptic primer to a depth of 3-4 cm.

4. After the impregnation has dried (24 hours), it is advisable to apply a layer of varnish for external use.

5. Installation. Remove the soil to a depth of 5 cm. Add sand. Can be done cement screed 4 cm. When laying out a track, alternate a combination of three large and one small dies. Between them you get a perfect pattern, with virtually no gaps. We fill the free space between the cuts with fine sand. After some time, it will only be necessary to replenish its natural decline.

Adviсe.
Do not place the slices close to each other. Over time, the wood swells and the track elements are squeezed out.
It is better to place wooden paths in sunny, ventilated places. In the shade, wood absorbs and retains moisture, as a result of which it is subject to biological corrosion. Don't forget, wet wood is slippery!
To increase the durability of the wooden path, place a layer of crushed stone drainage 20-30 cm thick under the surface.

At correct operation, the service life of such a track will be 10 years.

Garden paths made from tree bark

It's cheap and environmentally friendly material. Droshky made of bark, arranged among flowers and ornamental shrubs, provide them nutrients and protect the soil from freezing. The best paths are in places where there are plants that prefer acidic soil (heather, rhododendron, hydrangea, Erica). Preparing the path is not difficult. It is enough to make a pit and fill the bottom with a layer of sand (10-15 cm), then put 8-10 cm of bark on it.

Advice! The bark decomposes naturally. Once a season, the path from it requires additional bedding.

Path made from railway sleepers

Railway sleepers are a durable material, but difficult to obtain. You can make paths out of them, laying them flat, tightly together, or placing them loosely, and filling the voids, for example, with gravel.

Important! Remember, paths should not be too close to trees, especially those with shallow root systems. As it grows over time, it can disturb the surface of the path.

DIY garden paths made from car tires

We are all car enthusiasts. Using the old one car tires in this case, the ideal budget option for making garden paths. It is the tire that is designed to experience maximum loads.

The structures from it are:

• reinforced;
• resistant to temperature changes;
• not slippery;
• do not absorb moisture;
• not soaking;
• easy to care for;
• easy to make.

The process is as follows:

1. Using a knife, separate the rolling track of the tire from the side part. To make it easier for the knife to fit into dense rubber, treat the blade with machine oil or soap from time to time.
2. Cut the resulting rings into ribbons. To make a garden path, you may need three or four of these tapes.
3. Adjust the strips to length and secure with nails to wooden board or timber, next to each other.
4. Press the structure into the ground around the perimeter.

The cottage is used for gardening and recreation. For ease of movement around the site, passages are needed that connect outbuildings and serve to separate personal plot into functional areas, make it easier to care for the garden, transport in a wheelbarrow gardening tools and harvest, allow you to walk around the territory of the dacha in any weather.

Beautifully arranged paths are perceived as an aesthetic accent V landscape design. This part of the exterior is easy to do yourself, knowing the installation features and using available materials. Let's consider the basic rules for arranging paths and try to be inspired by various design ideas, to implement those you especially like in your local area.

What to consider when installing?

Tracks vary in purpose and material requirements. The location of pedestrian paths is taken into account at the site planning stage. On the plan we draw functional zones: garden, vegetable garden, yard, utility block, entrance area, main house, buildings for pets and birds. We connect them with the most convenient transitions. We choose either the shortest distance to the land use object, or the most aesthetically pleasing one, if it is a walking path. They often use this technique: for one season they walk on bare ground and where there are trodden paths, there is the most convenient location.

Paths are already being built along the paths.

It is necessary to take into account the landscape of the site. You may have to add soil somewhere, and cut off an unnecessary hill in other places. Walking paths should be laid using uneven terrain. It’s nice to climb up a hill and see a sprawling garden or park. Designers prefer the effect of a turn: a straight section is replaced by a sharp turn, behind which there is or beautiful gazebo, or a particularly decorated corner of the garden, or a waterfall surrounded by a body of water.

It is recommended to install straight paths in utility areas for efficient work in the garden or ease of caring for poultry. In a garden or park area, winding natural lines are better perceived. An elongated narrow area can be visually expanded by placing the path in a sinusoid or zigzag across the territory. Straight paths going into the distance will visually lengthen the space of the dacha.

The path should not abut the fence. It is better if it ends at the entrance to a building or a gate. You can equip the false gate with an arch entwined with flowers; it would be a good idea to place a bench in this arch, then the path will be logically justified and completed.

The list of mandatory works according to technical requirements When arranging paths, it includes digging a trench and compacting the foundation with a bedding of sand or crushed stone. This bedding protects the path from subsidence of individual sections of the material and prevents it from becoming overgrown with grass.

The construction of the path assumes the presence of drainage so that puddles do not form on the canvas. Usually it is enough to make the edges slightly lower than the middle part. In cross-section it looks like an arc. This way the water will flow away from the center and the path will always be dry.

It is important that the track width is sufficient. The minimum width of a country path must be at least 80 centimeters so that a loaded wheelbarrow can be necessary work move freely around the site.

The height of the path without a curb should be level with the ground, this makes it more convenient to mow the grass and the path will always look neat.

The path protruding from the ground will not allow this, and the grass will have to be cut separately with a special hand tool; this is not always convenient.

Popular materials

The material chosen for the paths is non-slippery and resistant to temperature changes in winter and summer. In the front area and in places of frequent visits, it is better to choose more wear-resistant stone or tiles; in the park area, you can give preference to sand, wood cuts, and crushed bark.

Concrete

The most inexpensive and durable tracks are made on concrete base. To do this, a trench 15-20 centimeters deep is dug, a layer of crushed stone about 5 centimeters high is poured onto the bottom, a reinforcing mesh is laid, a layer of sand 5-7 cm is poured, formwork is made from lath and installed along the edges of the trench. Instead of formwork, if desired, you can immediately install curbs if they were planned initially, but such a path is strong enough even without curbs.

Cement mortar is prepared in the following proportions: for 1 part of cement you need 1.5 parts of sand and 3 parts of gravel, a little less than 1 part of water is added until a semi-liquid mass is formed. This mass is poured into the formwork, maintaining a slope from the center of the path to the edges for drainage. Level to ground level. The path can be used in this form, but for 3-4 days it is better to cover it with film so that the cement sets evenly.

These tracks have increased strength, they are good to use in the economic zone and in the area of ​​access roads. This material is practically resistant to corrosion, can withstand heavy loads, but from an aesthetic point of view it looks somewhat monotonous.

For decoration, it is worth purchasing a mold for casting parts from cement and laying out the path fabric with these elements.

Pebbles

If desired, decorate the surface of the path with various natural finishing material, which is available in your area, such as pebbles or shell rock. They can be pre-painted in a variety of colors with exterior paint.

You can leave the stones in their natural form. You can buy pebbles, or you can collect them in the area, although this will take time, but this way you will usefully spend time in nature. The decor is laid out either chaotically or in the form of a pattern.

It is worth making a beautiful and utilitarian path in the country from fragments of unnecessary ceramic or earthenware tiles. It would be good if these tiles were of different colors. After renovation, many people have leftover tiles that are a pity to throw away; perhaps someone you know has a couple of tiles or cracked pieces. Everything is assembled and formed like a mosaic. It's good if the pieces are of different sizes. The base is prepared as in the first case, but fragments of tiles are pressed into the not yet hardened cement.

Such garden paths made from scrap materials are durable, well insulated from moisture, are not destroyed by frost, and are a bright accent in the design of the dacha.

Plastic bottles

On a concrete base decorative finishing made from a variety of materials. If your family loves carbonated drinks, then do not throw away bottles or collect caps from them, you can also ask nearest point catering plastic containers for drinks. Various parts of plastic bottles are used for decoration.

The brightest and beautiful paths can be made from multi-colored lids. It will take a long time to assemble a long country path, but anyone can decorate some areas with their own hands. The lids are pressed into the prepared concrete surface, arranging them harmoniously by color.

Another method of decoration is as follows: cut off the bottom of the bottle to a height of 5 - 8 centimeters and bury these glasses in concrete screed. Even if the plastic breaks off over time, it will remain on the surface. beautiful flower from hardened cement.

To create a path, sometimes whole plastic containers are used. The bottle is filled with sand, placed in a dug trench with a sand cushion, the gaps between the bottles are filled with very fine crushed stone or sand. Suitable for such purposes glass bottles. Glass or plastic creates colorful reflections in the sun and has a very picturesque appearance.

The coating turns out to be unusual and elegant, children really like it. The plastic surface is always warm, but it can withstand a small payload and the material easily deteriorates from mechanical damage. The decor made from caps goes well with borders made from bottles installed upside down.

Brick

At the dacha, you may find remains of bricks; they can also be used to build approaches to a house, barn, or bathhouse.

The technology for making such a trail is somewhat simpler than using concrete. A trench for the bed is dug 15 centimeters deep, a cushion of sand 5 centimeters thick is filled in, compacted, bricks are laid on the sand, not forgetting to slope towards the edges. They fill it with sand on top, pour it with water from a hose, after the sand settles, add it again, and spill it again. This procedure is repeated until the sand fills all the cracks to the top of the bricks. The coating is very durable, frost-resistant, warms up well in summer, and is pleasant to walk on barefoot. An important role here is played by sufficient compaction of the brick so that a flat surface is maintained and the edges of the bricks do not stick out from the canvas.

If there is a whole brick, it is laid out like inlaid parquet.

Budget option– use broken bricks. This may remain after repair work or be construction waste. The brick pieces are carefully selected from the chips and laid like a mosaic.

An option using bricks of different colors will look even more interesting: white and red. The coating looks aesthetically pleasing. Brick is one of the most resistant materials, but for driveways, of course, it is a fragile coating. But for pedestrian and bicycle paths it will serve for many years.

Tree

Wooden paths are one of the most popular in summer cottages. This is an affordable and beautiful natural material. The natural wooden surface attracts with its natural color and weave of wood fibers; it can be tinted in various shades. In the summer heat, this coating cools the feet, and in the cold it has a pleasant surface temperature. It is good for children to play on wooden paths; they will not get dirty or catch a cold. The aesthetics of the wooden coverings correspond to the aesthetics of the area, decorated in a natural style.

Such paths are made of boards. The frame is built on supports made of wooden or metal posts, and boards are sewn onto it. The space between the ground and the covering is ventilated and prevents the wood from rotting. All wooden parts must be treated with an antiseptic.

In another version wooden sleepers laid on a bed of crushed stone. A shallow trench is dug, filled with a layer of sand, and the space between the boards is filled with stone. Here you don’t have to make a clear boundary between gravel and forbs. It’s a good idea to walk along such a path to a pond overgrown with sedge, and touch the branches of apple trees, bent under the weight of filling apples.

Trees are usually the main element of a landscape composition.

However, the treated board is a fairly expensive material, so wood cuts are used much more often to construct paths. They can be of different sizes and heights from 8 to 15 centimeters. The installation technology is quite simple: a trench is dug 20 centimeters deep, a sand cushion is compacted, stumps are installed and the spaces between them are filled with crushed stone, pebbles, and sand. Wood cuts produce an intricate pattern of tree rings, are environmentally friendly, inexpensive, and can be easily replaced if destroyed.

Wood of any tree can be used, but it requires treatment with moisture protection agents.

Car tires

Virtually unaffected environment rubber coating from car tires. The simplest and most practical tracks are made from tires cut off at the edges; the straight part is straightened and laid directly on the ground. If necessary, such paths can be moved to another place; they are indispensable in the garden for passage between beds or in areas intended for keeping pets.

Other means

In some areas there is an overabundance of any natural material, which can become the basis for garden paths. If there is a coniferous forest near you, you can probably collect bark there. This material, poured in a thick layer, is quite durable, has a beautiful texture, allows moisture to pass through well, while remaining dry; if a section of the coating fails, it can be easily replaced with fresh bark. The technology for making such a path is very simple - a trench 10-15 centimeters deep is made, a layer of sand is poured and compacted, and the rest of the space is filled with a layer of bark about 10 centimeters.

More resistant to moisture and carrying a larger payload is a coating made of crushed stone or sand. The arrangement technology is the same as in the first case, only instead of bark, fine gravel, crushed stone or sand is poured. With proper cushioning, such paths will last for many years, but it is better to fence them with curbs.

Perhaps there are deposits of cobblestones nearby. The paths made from them have a fabulous look, are durable and decorate the landscape of the site. To create such paths, stones are placed in a trench on a sand bed with the flat side up so that the surface is as flat as possible. The gaps are filled with sand or small gravel.