Do-it-yourself small wooden stool drawings. Home furniture: DIY stool made of wood (drawings). Stool with wicker seat

“Can you put together a box? Yes? Okay, you’ll make stools for now.” This is from a conversation with a new job seeker in a small furniture company. Indeed, do simple stool with your own hands is no more difficult than a box. That one may be more difficult if it is retractable in a nightstand. Therefore, for those interested in carpentry, it is better to master it by starting with a stool. You won’t save a lot of money on this, stools are inexpensive. But the acquired skills will allow you to start working on large cabinet furniture, which will give you significant savings, plus unique items in the interior.

A stool as a starting object in the furniture business has another advantage: it requires little planing and sawing work with the inevitable debris, you can test your carpentry abilities on the balcony or even in the kitchen. Having made sure that things are going well, we will think about a carpentry workshop with a workbench and other things; Without it, you won’t be able to make the furniture more impressive.

The device and something about the terms

A classic kitchen stool made of wood is constructed as shown in Fig. It also shows that its design is a little complicated for a beginner, but we will get to it through simpler samples, but no worse. In this case, the picture is needed for something else.

The reader may think that calling the support beam a drawer, and the ties/spacers with legs is a purely furniture-specific feature, sort of like a sailor’s bench is a bank. As for the kings, this is not so. Tsargi can be found in other branches of technology, and there they are by no means beams, either in appearance or in the nature of the load.

In fact, the drawer is a structural element that distributes multidirectional loads across the components of the power circuit. When distributing the load, it is impossible not to experience it, therefore it is structurally, technologically and economically justified to make the drawers also load-bearing, i.e. make them work.

In furniture production, the frame is most often combined with a support beam in the form of a board or beam placed on the edge. This idea is so ingrained that some experienced carpenters consider any such board to be a tsarga. However, drawers in furniture are very diverse.

For example, at pos. 1 pic. (underneath a stool with legs in sockets) the drawers are still quite drawer-bearing beams, only made of timber. But already at pos. 2 kings are scarves, and their frame does not hold anything and is only decorative; on pos. 3 tsar-kerchiefs can do without it. And at pos. 4 ( dressing table) tsarga - a jib, which is a beam no more than a gusset.

Table with removable legs, pos. 4, the case is generally interesting. When it is disassembled, the drawer will be a shaped steel brace, because only in this case it keeps the boards of the underframe from breaking out of the tabletop when pushed, or simply from falling apart if the tabletop is also removed. But when the legs are in place, their heads are pressed into the corners and the table is standing, the boards of the underframe will become both beams and frames, because support both vertical and lateral loads. In this case, it is even legitimate to talk about attaching the legs to the drawers (!), because the product acquires proper strength and rigidity only when the mounting units of the legs are assembled and loaded.

Drawers made from boards can also be vertical posts rather than beams. In this case, they are called combat drawers, pos. 6. In general, with frames you need to do the same as with beams: first of all, look at how they work in the structure, but how they look is the second to fifth question. It was necessary to immediately be distracted by the drawers, because... in furniture they are found all the time.

What do we do?

To make a stool, let's see what you can do. Not everything, there is an endless variety of stools, but for starters, typical examples. Our task is to choose what is simpler and better for a specific purpose.

The classic kitchen stool can be both utilitarian and very artistic, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. Its design has evolved over centuries and such stools serve for many decades. The strength of the structure allows the stool to be used as a work table, everyone knows this. You can start working on a classic stool from the very beginning, having learned a few woodworking techniques, see below.

In lightweight stools, pos. 3-8, the legs are attached either without drawers at all, in sockets in a thick, durable seat, or in sockets in kerchief drawers. In the first case, both the seat and the legs have to be thickened, so such stools are inferior to others in strength, and often in appearance and position. 3.

To make a lightweight stool strong, its legs are tied with tie rods: the lower, the stronger and the thinner the tie bars can be, pos. 4 and 5. But the low frame made of ties interferes with the legs of the person sitting, and cutting into the thin legs of the stool weakens them. Therefore, instead of a simple frame, they often make an H-shaped one, pos. 6, or put ties on different levels, pos. 7.

The greatest strength and convenience is provided by the X-shaped tie system (tie cross), pos. 8. With a certain configuration of the legs, it is possible to do without the lower cross; One example of this kind will be discussed below.

Important subtleties

If you ever decide to make a lightweight stool, keep in mind, firstly, that its legs should be slightly apart, i.e. the axes passing through the centers of the heads and heels of the legs should deviate from the vertical by 7-12 degrees outward relative to the axis of symmetry of the stool. The second option is that the legs should be arched and expand upward, see below. Without one or the other, the legs may break even when slightly rocking on a stool. Moreover, both solutions are valid if the stool is symmetrical about the vertical axis, i.e. not extended in plan. An exception, up to a proportion of 1:1.5, is a stool with ties at different levels; it can be pulled out in the direction of the lower ties.

Second, in order to cut the heels and heads of the legs to the required angle, their blanks need to be collected in a tightly tightened bag and cut in 1 pass. Otherwise, the stool will remain an oblique spread: the vertical legs can then be adjusted to the length along the length, but the accuracy of the angles required for processing the legs one by one is simply impossible to achieve on wood. The angles will already be half a degree or a degree away from the drawing, but this is not so important, as long as all the legs are the same.

Stools-cabinets, pos. 9 and 10, are heavy and material-intensive, but very durable, because consist, from a mechanical point of view, of 3 sides located in mutually perpendicular planes. These same stools are easy to make, and it’s better to start mastering furniture making with them. In such a case - in Fig. drawings of 2 types. At pos. on the right, the details of the cabinet also cut into half the tree, see below; The groove for insertion is not shown. The seat in both cases can be of any centrally symmetrical shape; they place it on dowels, see below. The covers on round pedestal stools make them look indistinguishable from more labor-intensive poufs if you make an upholstered seat, as described below.

Note: in the inset at the bottom left of Fig. variant of a stool-cabinet for a summer residence. It requires 4 parts, but it does not get bogged down in loose soil.

Box-shaped or panel stools (items 11 and 12) require 4 parts, but are lighter and less disturbing to the legs. Making them is no more difficult than the previous ones, and all connections are dowel, which makes the work somewhat easier. Box stools can be extended in length until they become benches, and their strength and stability depend very little on height. The well-known utility stool (item 12) is from this breed. In general, stools made from panels are also a rewarding object for a novice carpenter, so we provide drawings for them of several types: a normal room height, on the right in the figure, a utility one lower, on the left there, and below - the construction of a very small children's stool.

Note: in Fig. on the right is a diagram of a reinforced box-shaped stool. Pos. c) there is a way to make it look more attractive by veneering the sides. This stool is well suited for the dacha: it is simple, light, inexpensive, looks good, and is not inferior to the classic one in terms of durability and convenience.

Stools for pos. 13 and 14 only look like box-shaped ones, but in fact they each have 4 wide and flat legs. Therefore, such stools must be made with drawers made of boards or beams, and the legs must be fastened with a leg. True, in this case there is only one and can be located so that it does not interfere with the legs at all.

The following variety available for self-made for beginners - step stools with X-shaped legs. To give them the required strength, they require either 2 drawers and 2 legs, located mutually perpendicular, pos. 15, or 4 drawer-beams forming the upper frame, and 1 tie between the crosses of the legs. Last option can be fitted into the interior of a living room or bedroom, but most of all the spreaders are made folding. If you suddenly become interested, see Fig. folding country stool, drawings and folding method. You can assemble a country house set from these and a garden folding table. In general, there are many designs of folding stools for different purposes, from a fishing stand to furniture for picnics, and some of them are easy to make with your own hands.

Note: all the described stools are quite plastic and tolerant of the configuration of parts, so their creative designs are possible in different styles, pos. 17-20.

Materials, tools, technology

What to make it from?

The wood is suitable for making any stool. In terms of strength and durability, a wooden stool is second only to a forged metal one, and in terms of convenience and functionality it has no equal among its peers. Any quality wood will be suitable for a stool, except for very soft and easily rotting species: poplar, willow, aspen, alder.

The quality of wood for any furniture is determined, firstly, by the absence of visible defects: cracks, falling knots, chips, wormholes, traces of rot and mold in the form of spots of a color unusual for this species, see fig. Secondly, the wood for furniture must be room-dry, with a humidity of 8-12%. Kiln-dried wood (humidity up to 8%) is of limited use for furniture, because during the drying process, its structure may be damaged and furniture made from it in the room may shrink or crack over time.

Note: cross-grained and twisted wood for furniture in handicraft production is in many cases acceptable, and sometimes desirable, because allow you to get beautiful texture. The famous Karelian birch is nothing more than an ordinary warty birch, completely curled due to unfavorable growing conditions.

The wood is air-dry, with 12-20% humidity (this is ordinary timber) must be kept in a dry room at a temperature of 15-30 degrees for 1-6 weeks, stacked on stands that do not dampen. The initial plots (boards, beams) are placed on supports at intervals, and the next belt (layer) of the stack is also placed on supports; Now you can use the same plots as them, laying a pair across.

Note: It is impossible to dry the wood under the influence of heating devices or incandescent lamps - we will get very poor chamber wood.

They usually use pine or spruce for the seat of the stool, and harder wood for the legs: birch, oak, maple, beech. Of course, the entire stool can be made from hardwood. Of the fairly accessible imported breeds, wenge, hemlock, and mahogany are suitable.

A complete replacement for wild wood will be modified wood - medium and high density MDF. MDF is not impregnated with anything; it is made from industrial wood sawing waste compressed at elevated temperatures, i.e. The material is completely environmentally friendly. MDF is inferior to wild wood in terms of abrasion resistance, so it is advisable to fill the heels of MDF legs with solid wood soles.

From plywood you can make pedestal and box-shaped stools, as well as covered stools with an X-shaped tie of legs (item 8 in the figure at the beginning) and similar ones in the power scheme. Also, plywood will fit on the seat of any stool. As a rule, only box-shaped stools are made entirely from chipboard, because... in the designs of all the others there are points of concentrated loads, which chipboard does not support. But chipboard will also work well on the seat.

Note: It is highly advisable to impregnate plywood for furniture with a water-polymer emulsion on both sides and on the end.

About the glue

Most furniture joints are glued. Traditionally, bone wood glue is used for this. It is inexpensive, does not require touch-drying before joining parts, and gains strength as soon as it hardens. But to prepare it you need a glue maker, which, however, you can make yourself.

Liquid nails wood glue is very strong. It also makes it possible to hide glue seams, because... it is tinted to look like wood with sawdust, or you can buy a ready-made tinted one. Better acrylic glue for wood on water based.

Liquid nails and acrylic are quite expensive, so in many cases they are replaced with almost equally durable PVA, but not the usual office grade for paper, but for wood. The corresponding marking must be looked at on the label, and wood PVA is sold not in office supply stores, but in construction and hardware stores. It is necessary to glue parts on PVA only after exposure to tack; glue is applied to both parts to be joined. Allow for at least a day to gain strength, only then can you continue working or load the connection.

Note: All adhesive joints do not hold seam shear well, i.e. they need to be supported in this direction different ways; about some, see below.

What to do?

We will assume that since you are a craftsman, you have simple measuring, marking and working tools, including chisels and chisels. It is also advisable to have a caliper with a depth gauge. But in order to start making stools and furniture in general, you need to stock up on a couple more devices first.

Firstly, a surface gauge (reismus) for marking, see fig. You can do it yourself by using a couple of screws instead of a lever lock. If you wish, you can use a homemade surface planer; amateurs do it.

Secondly, wooden panels for furniture are not assembled just like that; they will come out hunchbacked and cracked. Shields need to be united, i.e. When assembling, do not glue the boards, press them tightly against each other with their edges until the glue dries completely and gains strength. See below how the shields are held together, but for now you need to make devices for this: plazas or weims. The basis in both cases is strong, even and seasoned boards of at least 150x50 for plaza and 120x50 for vaym.

A very convenient plaza made from a screw clamp and a stop with a dead center, pos. 1 in Fig. If there are no components for it, then the simplest plaz, pos. 2. The boards in it are compressed with wedges, pos. 2a, alternately beating with a mallet, and roughly matching the size of the shield, place a spacer from the same board as the base of the plaza.

Large shields, approximately longer than 50 cm, cannot be rallied on the plaza, because its base itself bends. In addition, the extension of the edges of the boards beyond the plaza should not exceed 150 mm, i.e. on a plaza from 250 mm boards you can assemble a shield up to the same 50 cm wide. This is enough for a stool, but for the future it is better to get 3-4 wires, pos. 3. The fastening of the end stop bosses in all cases must be very strong, using M8-M12 through bolts with nuts, because Very large forces act on the work stops.

How to do?

To make a stool, you first need to master several types of joints wooden parts:

• Insert into half a tree (half a tree).
• Tongue and tongue connection.
• Tongue-groove connection.

Half a Tree

Half-tree connection shown in Fig. Technologically, it is the simplest and quite reliable if it is additionally fastened, 2-3 points per connection, with dowels, self-tapping screws, bolts, nails and, optionally, glued. When working hand tools The recesses are first sawed along the edges, not reaching 0.5-1 mm to the desired depth, and the excess material is removed with a chisel. Making cuts deeper in order to knock off the excess with one blow is a manufacturing defect!

Half-tree connections are closed, pos. 1, this is how the crosspieces are assembled, open, pos. 2, for assembling corners, and blind (closed) halfway, pos. 3, for insertion on the run. In addition, half a tree can be connected either side by side, pos. 1-3, and along the edge, pos. 4. In the latter case, if the parts are high enough, the connection holds well and only with glue without additional reinforcements; This is how the supports of stools/pedestals are assembled.

Tongue and tongue and groove

For tongue-and-groove joints, pos. 1-3 in the figure, the 1st point of additional fastening or just gluing is enough. The tongue-groove connection can be open single, pos. 1, open double, pos. 2, triple, etc., or closed, pos. 3. The latter can be separated only by pulling the part with the ridge, and open tongue-and-groove joints can also be done by rotating the parts relative to each other, i.e. a closed tongue-and-groove ridge is technologically more complex (the hole must be drilled along the edges with a drilling depth limiter and then carefully hollowed out), but stronger and more reliable.

Mortise-tongue and tongue-and-groove connections are mechanically similar, so they are often confused. For example, connections to pos. 1 and 2 in old Soviet textbooks for vocational schools are called tongue and groove. But in fact, the shoulder of the tenon, unlike the shoulder of the comb, goes around the tenon on all sides, pos. 4. This makes it possible to hide the semicircular edges of the hole selected by the end mill, and makes the connection resistant to breakout in 2 planes, along and across.

The tenon, like the closed tongue-and-groove, can be wedged when assembled with a wedge made of hard wood, also pos. 4. The connection becomes permanent, but very strong and no visible additional fastenings are required; glue will last forever. The connection on a wedged tenon is generally “dead”; it is easier to break the entire product into pieces than to separate it.

Note: There are many types of tenon joints used in furniture; For example, a small part of them is shown in Fig. on right. We will get acquainted with the necessary ones along the way when describing the corresponding types of furniture.

Dowels

The dowel connection is the most important thing in carpentry, because... it is quite strong and invisible, i.e. completely closed. Actually, a dowel is a round or octagonal tenon made of hard wood, made separately from the parts being connected. How the connection is made with dowels is shown in the figure; for marking, you can’t do without a surface planer.

The dowels can be wedged during assembly, see fig. on the right, then they are called dowels; The wedges must be placed across the grain of the wood of the parts being joined. The dowel connection is permanent, but very strong and reliable. The connections on the dowels are usually glued.

The attentive reader probably already has a question: where can I get them, these dowels? Random twigs and slivers will not be reliable. It’s true, dowel sticks are available for sale, but you can also make them yourself. In general, the main dowel connection in furniture has a lot of other subtleties, so we give a selection of videos:

Video: dowel connection

Video: making round sticks for dowels and arrows

Video: a device for making dowels with your own hands

Video: homemade jig for drilling holes for dowels

Rally

Boards are assembled into furniture panels in different ways. On a tongue and groove connection (a type of tongue-and-groove connection), pos. 1 in Fig., the easiest way to consolidate is to use tongue-and-groove boards. Due to the large contact area of ​​the surfaces being connected, glued tongue and groove is very reliable and is often used. However, only boards of sufficient thickness can be tongue-tied, because the tongue crest should, on the one hand, be no wider than 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the board, and on the other hand, it should not be narrower than 10-12 mm. It is believed that minimum thickness boards from wild solid wood for joining to tongue and groove - 30 mm, but it is not recommended to join boards less than 40 mm to tongue and groove; The dimensions of the tongue for a forty board are shown in Fig. higher. MDF and laminate panels can be tongue-and-groove with board thicknesses of 16 mm or more.

Joining in rebate, pos. 2, secure only if the fold has a lock. A lockless rebate is just a quarter, and a shield made from quarter boards will not be reliable, just like a shield assembled into a batten, i.e. just ends edged boards. It is difficult to make a locking rebate at home, so they, like the locking tongue and groove, are used to join panels made of MDF or laminate, see fig. on right. In this case, the thickness of the boards can be from 12 mm.

Rallying on dowels, pos. 3, perhaps solid wood boards from 20 mm and MDF/laminate from 12 mm, but it is labor-intensive and difficult. It is best to join thin boards using a smooth reveal, pos. 4. You will have to choose grooves for the reveal manual router on wood with a disk cutter, but the fugue itself can be made from plywood from 3 mm, which makes it possible to assemble “wild” boards from 12 mm.

About the seat

Sitting on a hard stool for a long time is uncomfortable, so something softer will do just fine. How the soft seat of the stool is arranged is shown in pos. 1 pic. You should immediately note that it is better to make the external upholstery from burlap, and sew capes for the stools from decorative furniture fabric. The stool is used intensively, often carelessly, and expensive jacquard, etc. It will soon get oily. And the cape can be washed, and sewing it is much easier than a cover for a chair or armchair.

The inner lining is installed on glue with a wing turn of 60 mm, pos. 2. Glue is applied only to the base and the wings are applied, drying it until it sticks. Foam rubber is chosen “by snap”: compressed to the limit with your fingers and suddenly released, it should straighten sharply, and not pull up smoothly.

The outer skin is also installed with glue, with the inner wings overlapping by at least 30-40 mm. To prevent it from creeping, its edges are tied with harsh threads lengthwise and crosswise, and the threads are sealed so as not to break accidentally. thick paper, thin cardboard or just tape. Upholstery nails, if necessary, are imitated with pushpins, pos. 3. The seat is attached to the base when it is completely ready.

The wicker seat pos. does not irritate the “fifth point” at all. 4, but it requires a reliable frame, like a classic stool. Lightweight stools and stools without a tightly attached seat are not strong enough. Modifying cabinets and box stools by replacing the top board with a frame is not worth it for the same reason.

Note: the dimensions of ordinary, not for a bar, stools are 420-450 mm in height; the seat is from 350x350 to 400x400 mm square and with a diameter of 300-450 mm round.

Examples and samples

The most reliable and functional, as we see, is still the classic stool; No wonder she became one of the classics. Therefore, we also provide its drawings, see Fig. Pos. A - general form and device; B – method of fastening the seat; B – detailing; D – scheme of joining the seat on the dowels; D – base assembly; E – checking for evenness by measuring pairs.

However, established canons do not exclude evolution up to revolutionary changes. Revolutions are generally not necessary for society because they are ruinous, but in technology they are almost always fruitful. An example is a lightweight stool for the kitchen based on a classic one, see next. rice. The use of plywood (top frame), laminate for the seat and, most importantly, the extension of the drawers outside the load-bearing belt, gave rise to a very simple, light, cheap and convenient design - there are no protrusions. And in terms of strength, it will not be inferior to the classics, but you can’t make a wicker seat.

And finally, a version of the base of a lightweight stool without legs. See fig. for assembly method. Material – wood or plywood. The seat can be anything. Thanks to the correctly chosen configuration of the legs, the stool is quite reliable, and in appearance, especially with a soft seat, it will fit into any living room.

Finally

Making furniture with your own hands is not only economical, but also exciting. And therefore - good luck! From a simple stool to a wardrobe or bed that will make the seasoned designer gasp in admiration.

WITH When we hear “kitchen”, we mean “stool”. On our tiny kitchens, the stool perfectly performs the tasks assigned to it, taking up almost no space. We are looking at stools for the kitchen, not gothic style chairs. Well, if we have to save space, let’s save money at the same time, and figure it out, how to make a stool with your own hands.

If you do not have experience working with wood and wood processing tools, listen to the following tips:

1) Avoid tongue-and-groove joints; their manufacture requires precision and certain work skills, otherwise we will not get a stool, but something shaky, unstable and creaky.

2) A stool is “mobile” furniture, prone to “traveling” around the house, so chipboard should not be used: its edges are prone to rapid destruction, especially if exposed to moisture, and chipboard does not hold screws and other fasteners well.

Materials for making a stool with your own hands

Modern markets abound with furniture of various types and shapes. The materials are also varied: from wood and its derivatives (plywood, chipboard, OSB), to metal, plastic and a couple of more exotic materials, like glass and stone. We will take the good old tree as a basis!

Our simple in design, but reliable wooden stool will consist of only three elements: a seat, legs and connecting plates. We will need:

1. Beam with a section of 30x30 mm, for legs
2. Board, size 145x300 mm and thickness 20-25 mm – 2 pcs.
3. Plywood, 12 mm thick.
4. Glue.
5. Sandpaper.
6. Acrylic varnish
7. Two dozen screws, 40 mm long.

Tools needed to make a stool

Convenience + speed = quality results. This formula fully characterizes the result of using suitable tools and devices in the work, so let’s prepare:

1) a hacksaw with a fine tooth;
2) cross screwdriver;
3) drill;
4) corner and ruler (carpenter's meter);
5) pencil;
6) drill;
7) soft brush for applying varnish.

Tools are a special topic altogether. A convenient, high-quality, “beautiful” instrument itself inspires creativity. Working with a good tool is a pleasure...

But we digress, let’s return to our stool, and finally tell you how to make a stool with your own hands.

In conclusion about the DIY stool

A stool is simple furniture. But it also gives flights of imagination for new creative solutions. You can solve the question of how to make a stool with your own hands using our example. You can come up with your own version. Do it and everything will work out for you!

In progress don't forget about safety precautions. So that the pleasure of work is not overshadowed by cuts and splinters, work carefully, take your time, and don’t be lazy about wearing gloves.

As you know, the kitchen is the “heart” of the house, its soul. And a place that gathers all the inhabitants into a friendly company. That is why it is so important to equip the dining area with special comfort. And comfortable stools placed around the table can help with this.

Despite the fact that a stool is taken for granted, any housewife will say that good furniture gives the kitchen a special coziness, warmth and excellent mood for the inhabitants of the house. Therefore, the choice of chairs and stools should be approached very responsibly, taking into account the general style of the kitchen interior, color tones, and even furniture for the kitchen corner.

Modern technologies can significantly reduce negative impact from using items made from such “fashionable” nowadays polymer materials(they are lighter, look more fun, and are cheaper in cost), but no one has canceled good old wood, and comparing other materials with it is unthinkable. And all because wooden furniture is environmentally friendly building material.

Another advantage wooden furniture is what she is high quality and has a long service life. And no matter what the manufacturers of fashionable “eco-plastic” say that it is “no worse”, wood will always be in price (of course, if these are not sheets of chipboard or MDF, but natural wood with antiseptic impregnations).

Third quality - impact resistance, resistance to mechanical damage (scratches, small impacts, chips). Of course, this does not mean that furniture made of natural solid wood, for example, can be hit with a hammer and nothing will happen to it. But the likelihood of noticeable deformations on the surface is quite small when compared with the same plastic furniture.

Carved wooden stools (photo)

Purchased wooden stools

pros

• The product is completely ready for use. This means that if you don’t want to bother with making seats yourself, wasting materials and your precious time, then you can buy wooden stools for the kitchen at any furniture store. They also often hold various promotions, sales, discounts, etc.
• You can also get acquainted with the assortment through catalogs of online stores - today this is very convenient, since it will immediately guide you in financially, and in the matter of delivery, besides, almost all issues can be resolved literally without leaving home. And you can also order furniture online by filling out the required order form.
• Alternatively, you can purchase a ready-made classic stool of the simplest design and decorate it to match the overall interior of the kitchen.

Minuses

• Sometimes the product posted on the website does not match the one delivered by the delivery service. There may be discrepancies in color shades, sizes and even material (for example, instead of aspen they bring pine, instead of oak - birch, etc.). In this case, delivery, as a rule, is paid and the costs for it are not reimbursed by the manufacturer in case of refusal of purchase. Therefore, it is advisable to check the product yourself.
• As for sales, not everything is so smooth here either - often such promotions relate to furniture that has already gone out of fashion, or is a stale product. Although stools as a piece of furniture are always relevant, their design can also change and even go out of fashion. But a discount on a product most often occurs when the product comes with any defects. Therefore, before purchasing a “discounted product”, you should think about it: do you need a defective seat in the kitchen?

Creative wooden stools for the kitchen (photo)

• stool sizes— it is advisable to select seats with dimensions that will allow you to fit all the stools under the table. The most ideal size is 300-400 mm wide, 290-350 mm deep (quadrangular seats), from 300 mm in diameter for round seats. The height can vary from 400 to 500 mm.
• table shape– this must be taken into account without fail. Agree, a rectangular table is unlikely to look good against the background of round stools.
• seat type– soft or hard. Here the “model” options can be very different - who will like what. Someone selects a hard seat, changes the soft bedding every month and enjoys regularly updating the interior with minimal financial costs. But someone wants constant comfort - so the choice is in favor of seats with soft upholstery.
• upholstery type– as a rule, washable upholstery is selected (leatherette, eco-leather, fabric upholstery with soft washable pile).

If you want to purchase stools with a depth of 350 mm or more, you will have to settle only on “soft” options, and all because such models do not cause discomfort when sitting at the table (this especially applies to stools rectangular shape) and do not “cut” into the skin.

Prices for wooden stools start from 450 rubles per piece - such price fluctuations depend on the type of wood, design, upholstery, manufacturer, type of construction and even decor.

DIY wooden stools

pros

Your own is always the best, since it is produced “for yourself”. The advantage of hand-made wooden stools is obvious: the result is a product of the “right” size, with a convenient and practical design and the simplest design. Plus it costs less Money(well, except for the material for manufacturing), there is the possibility of decoration and wide scope for creativity.

You can also paint the seat or paint it a single color according to your own taste. And most importantly, such seats will always fit into any kitchen interior, since they will be manufactured “exclusively”. And you can choose the upholstery yourself, soft or simple, to match the curtains and overall kitchen furniture.

The price of wooden stools made by yourself, as a rule, is significantly lower than the market price.

Classic solid wood stool

Minuses

The disadvantage of producing wooden stools is the significant time spent on their production. This statement is more suitable for those who have practically no free time. And also for those who are not used to handling a hammer and nails. However, today in construction departments you can find anything you want - both lumber and carpentry tool, and means for finishing/decorating finished stools. And by following the instructions for making “seats” yourself, you can quickly learn how to make wooden stools for the kitchen.

Drawings of stools

How to make a stool from wood? Since making a classic stool yourself comes down to several stages, let’s look at each of them in general terms (using visual examples of drawings of wooden stools).

Scheme 1. On straight legs

Material: bars measuring 60x60x400 mm - for legs (4 pcs), bars with spikes (drawbars) measuring 25x60x260 mm (4 pcs), seat - sheet of plywood measuring 300x300x10 mm (1 pc). For soft upholstery You will need a piece of foam rubber the same size as the seat, and fabric for finishing.

Tools: pencil with ruler, jigsaw, wood saw, glue, construction stapler.

The drawers are made as follows: distances of 30 mm are measured at both ends for the tenons, then the ends are filed so that the height of one tenon is 50 mm. The drawers are ready (these are the so-called connecting ribs for the stool).

In the leg-bars, grooves should be cut to install drawers with tenons in them (the grooves are first marked with a pencil), then the drawers and legs are fastened together. The length of one groove should be 50 mm, depth – up to 30 mm, width – 10-13 mm. The distances from the edge of the groove to the edge of the leg are 20 mm on top, 10 mm on the sides.

After preparing all the parts, their assembly begins. Before planting the drawers in the grooves, it is necessary to coat both the tenons and the grooves with PVA glue - for better bonding, and then connect tightly. For greater strength, you can secure the parts with screws. In this sequence, all the legs of the stool are connected to each other.

The frame is ready, now all that remains is to put the seat on top and secure it. A sheet of plywood is mounted on self-tapping screws.

Next comes the finishing touch - you can simply coat it with a special wood varnish in several layers, or you can paint it with water-based acrylic paint. If you want to upholster the seat with fabric or leatherette, then before fastening the plywood sheet is first upholstered, the upholstery material is attached with a stapler or glue, and then placed on the frame.

This is the most simple circuit making your own stools from wooden blocks and plywood.

Scheme 2. On bending legs

The design principle is the same, with a difference in the shape of the legs. Naturally, such legs are not bent, but cut out of blocks with a jigsaw. You can shape the legs of the stool by using a stencil made of thick cardboard.

Wooden stools with curly legs in the interior (photo)

Scheme 3. From thick sheets of plywood

This stool is notable for the fact that it is a completely prefabricated structure. First, templates are made on a sheet of thick cardboard (you can take whatman paper in A1 format), with exact dimensions applied on a scale of 1:1. Then the templates are cut out with scissors, laid on plywood (the thickness of the plywood is taken according to the principle “the thicker, the more reliable”, but we should not forget about the complexity of processing the sheets!), and outlined with a pencil.

After transferring the markup from plywood sheets parts of a prefabricated structure are cut out, which are then assembled like a children's construction set. It's all pretty easy!

Once assembly is complete, file the ends of the legs and sand the seat again.

Decorating stools for the kitchen

The stools are already ready, but there is no finishing? Here you can play out to your heart's content, giving free rein to your imagination! You can paint the seats with legs in bright colorful colors (we only use acrylic paints water-based) or can be varnished - such stools will look no worse than “painted” ones. You can sew original ones to match the overall style of the room.

You can develop your imagination even further and apply designs using stencils (these are sold in hardware stores and furniture decorating departments). Or you can cover the stools with fabric or wallpaper - if you have “unused excess material” left. The main thing here is imagination, inspiration and taste, so that the result pleases the owners, and such decor is in harmony with the overall interior of your kitchen!

Master class on decorating a wooden stool from Ikea (video):

A stool is an indispensable piece of furniture. With its help, you can get the necessary things from a high shelf, pick a harvest in the country, or just sit comfortably in the shade of a tree. You need several stools. To avoid spending money on buying them, you can try to make them yourself. It is not difficult and not financially expensive. How to make a stool, what is necessary for manufacturing, you will learn from the article.

Popular types of stools

The store offers a huge number of chairs, stools and a variety of furniture. But a stool made by yourself will always be better, more convenient and more expensive. This is a source of pride, the result of mastery and the level of skill achieved. If you involve your child in making the stool, it will be an unforgettable experience and wonderful childhood memories. Or maybe this will be the impetus for development? children's creativity. So the decision to make a chair without a backrest with your own hands has only positive aspects. How to make a stool with your own hands can be found in the article.

The process should be approached responsibly. You need to prepare:

• material for making a chair;
• place of work;
• sketch or drawing;
• components.

A popular household item requires knowledge of some nuances during manufacture:

• making grooves for connecting the legs is an important condition;
• most reliable look fastenings - groove - tenon;
• Incorrect cutting of grooves will lead to loosening of parts;
• The stool is moved frequently, so the use of good fastening units is important.

Stool options:

• in the form of a chair, without a back;
• small, about thirty centimeters in height, often used as a stand;
• with soft upholstery is widely used in the kitchen;
• children's - option for a small child;
• folding, for fishing, trading at the market.

Children's stools photos can be seen in the article. This type chairs are very popular in families with children.

Various do-it-yourself stool drawings

It is best for a beginner to make a stool according to the instructions in order to avoid inconsistencies. A stool is made with your own hands, following the rules and instructions.

The first rule is to prepare the legs for the chair. The sequence rule is:

• cut off four pieces, six hundred millimeters each, from the timber prepared in advance;
• make bevels at forty-five degrees;
• For a correctly cut corner, it is extremely important to use a miter box; this device allows you to make cuts at any desired angle;
• the manufactured legs are connected in pairs;
• make a notch - a gap on the pair of cutting legs;
• by connecting the blanks, you get a cross from the legs;
• prepare a beam of six hundred millimeters for attaching the crosspiece to each other, this is done for the stability of the product;
• connect the fastening points with self-tapping screws;
• “sink” the grooves for aesthetic beauty, seal the top with a special agent;
• connect the cross and at the top.

After making the legs, you should proceed to work on making the seat. If this is not a stool for getting things from the mezzanine, for convenience it is better to make a soft seat. Making a soft top is not at all difficult.

To make a quality top, you need to use plywood. There are no exact recommendations, but it is advisable to use plywood thicker than fifteen millimeters. If you use thinner plywood, the seat will be flimsy.

The seat manufacturing algorithm is as follows:

• cut out a piece of plywood with a jigsaw or saw; you should draw the sketch correctly in advance;
• cut a piece of foam rubber to fit the seat;
• cut off the material - the lining, the material should be about a third larger than the seat, the margin is necessary for conveniently securing the material under the top of the chair;
• the material is laid out in the following order: fabric, foam rubber, plywood;
• tuck the corners of the material along the edges;
• The upholstery material is attached with staples or buttons with plastic caps; an assistant is needed to properly stretch and hold the material.

Step-by-step instructions for making a stool

A stool is a necessary piece of furniture; it can be of any size and from any number of parts. Essentially, it is a chair that has no back. He will never be superfluous in the household. Any craftsman who can hold a hacksaw and a hammer in his hands can make a stool, even if he has never made anything more complex than a box before. Following simple instructions will allow you to build a comfortable stool for your cottage or apartment.

If you have whole parts natural wood, you can make a chic stool that will be expensive, but will look impressive. But more often, only assorted fragments of boards are at hand. Even in this case, you can make a stool that will decorate the interior and perform its main function.

In order for the result of your work to please you, you must visit construction market and purchase the following materials:

• several high-quality sanded pine or oak boards;
• self-tapping screws;
• timber for lintels;
• special glue;
• corners for fastening.

Having purchased the material, you imagine what kind of stool you would like to have at the end. You should estimate all sizes in advance. The main dimensions of the future seating area are marked on the board, and a decision is made on the height and thickness of the legs. Provided that the stool is not being made for children, it is advisable to provide additional fastenings between the seat and the side stand. The drawbars will make the stool more durable and prevent loosening. A small hacksaw is necessary for cutting the material, this will help avoid chipped areas. It is necessary to make some kind of protrusions at the top of the posts; these parts will fit into the bottom of the seat. Accordingly, grooves for them are prepared on the seat.

After cutting the materials (which you carefully double-check before cutting), you can begin assembling the main parts of the future stool. For good fixation, before connecting the grooves of the seat and the posts, the protrusions should be treated with special glue and sealed with a bandage to ensure a strong connection. Parts of the chair are attached to the drawers with self-tapping screws. If the material is of different colors, the surface of the stool should be thoroughly sanded. Provided that it was purchased quality material, putty will only be necessary for the places where the screws enter.

The first product may not satisfy you. Each subsequent product will turn out better and more original. The stool will become a source of your pride, a highlight of the interior and will help you save a lot of money.

It must be remembered that it is better to make the stool low, no higher than sixty centimeters.

Modern stools

The ability to produce an original and stylish sample allows you to expand the scope of stools. Gone are the days of them being confined to the kitchen or being used for apple picking. In addition to traditional square designs, more and more variants of original shapes are appearing:

• oval;
• round;
• bar;
• children's;
• other.

They can be made from a variety of materials:

• various wood;
• plastic;
• metal;
• acrylic.

Such original and stylish stools will decorate any home, as well as public places: cafes, bars, restaurants, pizzerias. But still, wooden stools are preferable for home furnishings.

Do-it-yourself folding stool

A folding stool is very convenient and practical; when there is no need to use a stool, it can be folded and placed behind some furniture. Thus, it takes up no space at all and is invisible.

Fishermen, summer residents, and market sellers were able to appreciate the convenience of such a stool. You can buy a stool and not waste effort on making it. But if you do it yourself, you will be completely confident in its quality and will receive moral satisfaction from using the result of your labor.

Making a folding stool is simple, but still without detailed drawing not enough. Necessary for making a high chair:

• identical bars, four pieces;
• leggings;
• crossbars under the seat;
• bars for sitting;
• six bolts;
• self-tapping screws

After preparing the workplace, drawing, materials and all tools, you can begin making the chair:

• place axial bolts; they should be fastened along the edges of the legs;
• drill holes, taking into account the place for the cap;
• attach the crossbars to the top of the legs, two with inside, two - from the outside;
• the legs are installed at a distance of nine to ten centimeters from the legs;
• connect the middle bars, this process is quite laborious and requires a lot of concentration, this is a collapsible mechanism, it is important to secure the parts correctly;
• The height of the chair depends on the location of the connecting bars.

Any type of wood is suitable for making a folding chair, pine and birch are preferable. Because of light weight It will be more convenient to carry the chair.

Tools for work

To make a stool you will need to prepare workplace and tool. Unless you are a professional carpenter, there is no need to spend your salary on expensive machines and tools. You can get by with simple tools that any man has in his pantry. The floor surface must be covered with film, this will help reduce littering. To make a stool you will need:

• electric drill;
• carpenter's clamp;
• clamp - clothespin;
• jigsaw;
• saw;
• drill and set of drills;
• hacksaw for metal;
• wood file (rasp);
• bit;
• screwdriver;
• chisel;
• sandpaper;
• wooden mallet;
• fasteners;
• plane;

But before manufacturing the product, it is necessary to make a sketch - a sketch. To do this you will need:

• metal ruler and square;
• brushes;
• set of pencils.

Material, samples

To make a high chair, you can use any type of wood. Of all the materials suitable for making a stool, it is preferable to create a product from wood. Neither wrought iron nor plastic seating compares to wooden chair. The only caveat is that wood from poplar, alder, willow and aspen is least suitable for a chair. These breeds are soft and prone to reacting to contact with water.

It is important that the material for the blanks is dry, of high quality, without knots, mold or wormholes. When the wood is wet ready product It will dry out and be of poor quality, it may dry out and crack.

Pine and spruce are used for seating. To make legs, harder trees are required: beech, birch, oak, fir, maple.

If it is impossible to make a product from wood, modified wood can be used. This is compressed sawdust and waste from cutting trees. This material is inferior in wear and durability to natural material.

The choice of glue also needs to be approached responsibly. Most pieces of furniture are glued together and the quality of the glue will directly determine the quality of the product. Bone wood glue has good reviews. It is relatively inexpensive, does not require additional drying, and holds the parts firmly after hardening. The only drawback is the difficulty of manufacturing and the need for special equipment.

Liquid nails glue is strong enough for gluing parts together. It hides seams well.

Water-based acrylic glue is also very strong and high quality.

Due to their high cost, liquid nails and acrylic glue are being replaced by PVA for furniture. PVA paper glue is not suitable for gluing parts together. The disadvantage of this glue is the need to keep the glued parts for 24 hours without loading or displacing the parts.

What do you need to know?

In order to make it, you should master several types of connecting wooden parts to each other:

• insert into half a tree (be able to make a groove);
• tongue-and-groove connection;
• dowel connection;
• rallying;
• tongue and groove connection.

There is nothing complicated in making a stool from wood. You need to be patient, measure everything, make the right sketches and select the material. But after spending a little time, you will enjoy the convenience and quality product, feel moral satisfaction and proudly show off your creation to friends. Or maybe the first experience will be an impetus for further carpentry.

1. Tool
2. About the sizes of stools
3. Three parts
4. From 3 to 5
5. Simple kitchen
6. Spreader
7. More connections
8. Real kitchen

The world of stools is vast and varied; photo in fig. they only give general idea about its range. It is with a stool that many amateur carpenters begin their creative journey: you can make a simple, but practical and pleasant-looking stool with your own hands in half an evening, and in the future, stools of other types will allow you to master the essential subtleties of furniture craftsmanship, and not a single product will be superfluous in the house.

Other pieces of furniture do not have such amazing properties; This is explained, on the one hand, by the fact that the stool is essentially extremely simple, purely practical and comes from ancient times: the wooden logs on which cavemen sat around the fire are already stools. For the same reason, a stool must endure everything, be strong, reliable, and durable.

On the other hand, the simplicity of the form and design allows the stool to fit into any interior and generally be at home in any environment. Over the centuries and millennia, this certainly had to be appreciated, and was appreciated, as a suitable basis for the embodiment of certain aesthetic concepts in the material. Such an exquisite piece of furniture as a banquette is also nothing more than a stool. Ornate design and decor require the use of complex technological techniques, so to make a luxurious stool, you will need a fair amount of skill and experience. It is much easier to purchase both when working with a familiar base, and here the stool provides a full range of products from the completely primitive to the most technologically sophisticated.

Stools are made from the most various materials, from ropes to stone. Plastic stools have long been commonplace, and forged or welded metal ones are also not unique, but in this publication we will figure out how to make a stool from wood. The reason, in addition to the “originality” of the material, is that it is wooden stool can be extremely simple, durable, reliable, and at the same time have high aesthetic advantages. How so? Well, let's go!

Tool

Making a stool begins with preparing the tool and workplace. Don't worry, we won't immediately advise spending any decent salaries on milling machine woodworking, drilling, jointing, sawing and lathe machines. Let's try to do without even carpentry workbench. Maybe it will come to all this when a taste for work appears and income from it appears. For now, we will limit ourselves to the minimum that will allow us to work from a table on the balcony or in the garage, laying a film on the floor so as not to spread sawdust. And this minimum of tools should be useful on the farm in general, in case (everyone has their own inclinations) the first stool turns out to be the last.

So, to begin with, in addition to an electric drill, you will need a pair of C-shaped carpentry clamps for 180-220 mm (top left in the figure), one (preferably 2) F-shaped for 400-500 mm, at the top in the center, and, preferably, clothespin clamp, top right. They are inexpensive, and their range of applications besides carpentry is very wide.

Buying a jigsaw, of course, would be a good idea; it is not that expensive and is suitable for a wide variety of jobs. But at first, you can use it instead... a frame hacksaw for metal; These are also sold as mini hacksaws. Just don’t take entirely plastic ones (bottom left in the figure, pos. a). This is a tool for rare occasional use. Such a miracle can be found on the Internet for as much as 18 rubles, but the plastic sponges are quickly eaten up by the steel of the blade, and an “ultra-cheap” hacksaw is not enough for a good stool. You need to take a mini hacksaw with a steel frame, pos. b. It will cost about 50 rubles, but you can work with it for a long time and regularly.

To work on wood, the blade is inserted into the frame hacksaw “incorrectly”, with the cutting edges of the teeth towards you (upper insert in pos. b). Then, using a section of the canvas in the frame, you can saw across the grain, along and obliquely. In any case, the cut comes out even and smooth, literally mirror-like; When sawing layer by layer, only under-dried or newly damp coniferous wood becomes a little shaggy. In this way, for example, the tenons for the groove are filed, see below. Again, the “wrong” way to cut wood with a frame saw is to start from the corner, because wood is softer than any structural metal.

Using a protruding section (cantilever) of the blade to make a curved cut is slower than with a jigsaw, but, with some attention and accuracy, just as accurate. When working at home, it is advisable to thread the blade, as it should be in a mechanic's fashion, with the ridges of the teeth away from you, so that the sawdust falls down, clogging the markings. In this case, you also need to saw like a mechanic: hold the tool level, without tilting it along the cut, do not lean too hard, and give no more than 1.5-2 blade widths in the swing (working stroke). Also, using the “wing” of the blade, the protruding ends of dowels and through tenons are sawed off no worse than with a special flexible saw, which is several times more expensive.

Next, wood files - rasps. You will need 2 of them: straight semicircular 200x20 mm, pos. in, etc. cabinet, also semicircular (250-300)x30 mm, pos. d. A cabinet rasp differs from a straight rasp not only in its narrowed end, but also in the method of notching. Both of them have a notch, of course, that is not at all the same as that of metal files; those on the tree instantly become clogged with sawdust. Depending on the properties of the wood and the area being processed (end, edge, face), it may be more convenient to work with one or another rasp.

Then, chisels. We will need simple straight wood chisels with a width of 6-8 and 20 mm. It would also be a good idea to purchase a set of 6-40 mm chisels, consisting of 3-5 samples. Often a set of chisels comes with a wooden mallet, which otherwise needs to be purchased separately. However, you can make a mallet, like a clothespin clamp, with your own hands from hard, fine-grained wood.

About the sizes of stools

The dimensions of the stool seat, as a rule, are taken in the range from 300x300 to 450x450 mm or, if the stool is round, of the same diameter. Minimum – 250x250 mm; sitting on a 200 mm board is already uncomfortable; after 5-15 minutes, the edges of even a soft, but too narrow seat crash into the vast elastic “fifth point”.

The total height of the stool is taken, according to height, in the range of 420-480 mm. The height of a children's or utility stool can be reduced to 260-280 mm; in this case, the seat is made approximately 260x260 mm or with a diameter of 270-280 mm.

Note: When designing a stool yourself, you should remember that its outline supporting surface must be no less than 280x280 mm or a diameter of 320 mm for a stool of normal height and no less than 250x250 mm or a diameter of 290 mm for a stool of reduced height, otherwise both will turn out to be unstable. For decorative and folding stools, these values ​​can be reduced by 1.25 times.

Three parts

Yes, a good stool, incl. decorative for the living room, can be assembled from just 3 parts. Drawings of a product of this kind (stools-cabinets) are given on the left in Fig. The version of 4 parts is unsightly, but very durable, therefore it is more suitable as a working stool: you can attach a removable vice on it, drill, saw, chop, etc. In this case, it is better to take the overall dimensions of the 4-piece stool to be minimal, see above.

The sample on the left in Fig. – one of the very few types of stools that can be made entirely from chipboard with a thickness of 20 mm or more; The width of the connecting grooves in the parts corresponds to the thickness of the material. The base is assembled with glue (carpentry glue, nitro glue for wood, PVA or polymer for tiles like bustylate). Seat fastening – wood screws or confirmatory screws (60-90) x 6 mm. Screw connections are also glued.

The fact is that chipboard really “does not like” loads on the layer and fastening at the end. In this design, the loads concentrated at the attachment points spread well and, if assembled correctly, delamination of the material is unlikely. But it is still highly advisable to glue pads made of hard, dense wood (oak, beech, hornbeam) with a thickness of 10 mm or more onto the heels of the legs. No need for rubber, it will stain and ruin the floor.

From 3 to 5

The version of the supporting structure of the stool, shown on the right in the figure, allows, on the one hand, to get rid of the rather labor-intensive and responsible cutting of long, even grooves, which is especially important when working hand saw. On the other hand, it allows you to get legs of a rather bizarre shape without a significant increase in material waste, because workpieces are marked with minimal technological gaps on a board 200-250 mm wide.

The “highlight” here is that 2 of the 3 parts of the previous design (namely, the legs) “halve” lengthwise. The base is assembled in a cross (diagram at the top right) similar to the previous one. option, i.e. with gluing all connections:

• Drill holes for self-tapping screws; You don't have to select holes for the fastener heads.
• Dry assembly is carried out and, if necessary, parts are adjusted.
• Inject 3-4 drops of glue into the holes for fasteners and spread it inside with a thin splinter.
• Apply glue to the mating surfaces.
• Maintain parts until the glue sticks to visible surfaces.
• The entire assembly is assembled quickly and tightly using hardware.

Pay also attention to the side surface, marked with the letter A. Before installing the seat, you can put on a round shell rolled from thin fiberboard. The shell is installed using glue and small hardware (screws, nails). After assembling and finishing the entire product, the shell can be decorated, incl. very impressive stucco molding polymer clay and get a truly luxurious stool.

4 parts

Stools-benches of a box-shaped design made of 4 boards (a seat, 2 side panels-legs and a vertical longitudinal insert-support beam, on the left in the figure) are widely known and have been described many times. However, such a stool is simple and cheap only in appearance: for proper strength and reliability, its parts need to be cut from a block of durable wood or chipboard with a thickness of 40 mm and a width of 250 mm. Both materials are not cheap; scraps suitable for a stool most often do not go to waste, and it is not easy to find them for sale or in your own pantry.

Meanwhile, a utility and work stool-bench can be made literally from scrap materials, scraps of timber from 30x30 and plywood from 2.5 mm as follows, on the right in the figure:

1. Sections of timber are welded into panels (leg blanks) end-to-end with glue, as described below;
2. One side of each panel is covered with plywood under pressure (compression with clamps);
3. Cut out corner grooves in the leg blanks for the same beam and use a chisel to select holes for the screed from the same beam;
4. Cover the front sides of the legs with plywood in the same way as in step 2;
5. Assembled with glue and screws supporting box stool;
6. The seat is attached, which in this case can be made of plywood from 6 mm or boards from 12 mm. You can simply install the seat on the glue; all operating loads are already taken care of by the box.

Simple kitchen

A simple full-size utility stool can also be made from scraps of timber, plywood or chipboard, see fig. It is more suitable for a seasonal garden. When used in the kitchen of a residential building, the design turns out to be rather weak, where this stool lasts for 3-5 years. The second option for using the same design is a smaller children's stool, see above; the dimensions of the parts are then proportionally reduced, except for the width of the connecting grooves.

Spreader

A step stool with 2 pairs of X-shaped legs is also quite popular due to its low material consumption and good decorative qualities. However, in reality it turns out to be not so simple.

Take a look at the subassembly marked in red in the fragment at the top left of the figure. Performing a strong and reliable insertion of 3 beams in 2 mutually perpendicular planes is not an easy task even for an experienced carpenter; putting a dowel there will be unreliable, and the self-tapping screw in this case is outright hackwork: the double crosshair is heavily loaded and the steel hardware will tear the wood.

These problems can be circumvented by combining the beam and box-type load-bearing circuits of the supporting structure. We will leave the openwork of the beam frame in the most noticeable place - at the bottom - and we will achieve overall strength with an “oak” box-shaped top. Technically, this is achieved by reducing the angle between the legs to 60 degrees. Then, in order to maintain the overall height of the stool and the width of the contour of the supporting surface within acceptable limits, the crosshairs of the legs move upward. The V-shaped part of the now asymmetrical X is high and wide enough that a strong box could be made of 20 mm or thicker pine boards, chipboard or plywood, see left in fig.

Note: the missing overall dimensions can be taken from the figure; it is drawn to scale.

The longitudinal walls of the box do not have to be inclined; This is done to reduce the visibility of the box while maintaining maximum volume. If the longitudinal walls of the box are straight, it can be made narrower, as long as the V-shaped part of the legs fits inside. It also doesn’t hurt to deepen the box by moving its bottom down; the whole stool will only be stronger. In this case, 1-2 attachment points are added to the ?-shaped parts of the legs, similar to the V-shaped part, marked in green in Fig. The box is assembled using dowels (see below) and glue or using steel corners applied from the inside. In this case, the box is first glued, and after 1/4-1/3 of the time the glue has completely hardened, it is finally fastened with steel.

First, when choosing excess from the groove (pos. 1d), there is no need to bring it to complete rectangularity. It is better to leave the edges (short sides) of the groove rounded, and round the edges of the tenon accordingly, so the entire connection will be stronger.

Secondly, the tenon does not have to be made on a router; it will not take much longer to cut it out by hand with the same frame hacksaw. First, at the level of the base of the tenon, the workpiece is sawed across the contour 0.5-1 mm less than the required depth, retreating from the markings to the end of the workpiece by 0.5-1 mm. Drilling down to the full depth is also not a big sin, but then a shallow narrow groove will remain along the contour of the base of the tenon. If you don’t finish sawing a little, then the base of the tenon, due to the elasticity of the tree, will be slightly wider, and the whole connection will again be stronger.

The tenon is finally cut out from the end along the fibers, retreating 0.5-1 mm outward from the markings. Here, for the same reason, the cut is also not completed by 1-1.5 mm, and the excess is simply broken off. If the wood is straight-grained coniferous, the excess will at some point crack on its own and hang on the fibers or fall off. Adjust the tenon to size and round its edges with a rasp.

Note: When developing wooden structures yourself, do not forget - all tenons should be directed only and only along the layer! The thickness of the tenon for ordinary industrial wood, unless otherwise indicated on the drawings, is taken by default at 1/3 of the thickness of the thinnest of the mating parts.

As for dowels (round connecting bosses), it is better to buy ready-made wooden ones. The cost of ready-made dowels is cheap; they are already chamfered and grooved, which makes the glued connection stronger. Plastic dowels do not dry out along with the wood and therefore the connection weakens over time.

The main rule when choosing dowels is that their wood should dry out a little slower than structural wood or at the same speed; this condition is almost always met if the wood of the dowel is harder. Drying out the dowel is difficult because its contact with air is limited. As the part dries out, it will compress the dowel; The lignin between it and the dowel is gradually “soldered together” and the connection becomes stronger over time.

The diameter of the dowels is taken to be 2.5-3 times less than the thickness of the narrowest part to be connected; its length is 1.75 times the thickness of the thinnest part. The last dowel (if it is not through) should fit 2/3-3/4 of its thickness, and the rest of it should sit in the thicker part.

Note: holes for blind dowels in thin boards are selected so-called. with a Forstner drill, see below, leaving behind an almost flat bottom.

Also a useful stool

Well, are you going to make a tenon and groove with your hands? Then it’s time to start making a simple folding wooden stool, see picture, for a summer house, garden, picnic. 2-3 of these stools will not take up much space in the closet and will fit in the trunk of a car. Material: board or plywood. It is highly advisable to impregnate all parts from the latter with a water-polymer emulsion before assembling the product; it will not only protect against moisture and rot, but also strengthen the structure.

How to make a grab

Taking a folding stool with a round seat simply by the seat is not entirely convenient, so the hand grip on the sample above is not a whim. In a solid board, the grip is cut out as usual: using a feather or core drill, holes are drilled along its edges (diameter - 24-36 mm; distance between centers 95-115 mm, depending on the hand), and the excess between them is sawed out. In this case, it is also convenient to use a frame saw.

It’s another matter if the grip is at the junction of the boards; This most often happens in classic kitchen stools, see below. Here is the beak of the pen or the pioneer drill/guide pin of the crown when working hand drill They will definitely go along the groove and the drill will move to the right. A jig made of thick plywood or cutting a board does not help, the thin side of the feather or the teeth of the crown tear it, and they themselves catch on the steel jig.

It is for such cases, as well as for drilling holes with a flat bottom, that the Forstner drill is intended, see Fig., its side surface smooth. When making a hand grip in the seat of a stool, first drill holes in the jig according to the dimensions indicated above; there is a surplus left! Then the conductor is placed in place, securely secured with a pair C-clamps, and drill the edge holes. The excess in the part is chosen as always; the gap between the boards is not a hindrance for this.

Real kitchen

Now we have classic stools for the kitchen. During use, they suffer more than others, so their design is carried out according to all the rules of strength: a rigid beam frame, capable of withstanding all operating loads, and a seat that must be held firmly in place, but in such a way that, if necessary, it can be easily repaired or replace. Therefore, the seat of a kitchen stool is made of panel boards from cohesive planks (see below) and attached to biscuit stands or directly to the frame on dowels.

The option with breadcrumbs is shown in rice; pos. A – its general scheme and names components. The advantage of this design is the low requirements for the quality of the seat shield. By installing a pair of crackers on each drawer (this will not reduce the overall strength of the product), you can make the seat out of separate boards, and on the original 4 crackers - with plywood or chipboard.

Pay attention to the drawers, these are not just boards, they are all over the furniture, and not only in furniture. A drawbar in general is a part that properly distributes loads in an assembly unit and is itself capable of bearing the load. Drawers can be found in the still, pipelines, etc., which have nothing to do with furniture.

Also pay attention to pos. E, it shows a way to check the evenness of pairs of legs using diagonals; it is basically the same as checking the squareness of the foundation. When assembling a classic stool, the evenness of the pairs is checked three times, see fig. right: in pairs assembled separately (left pose and red lines), between pairs (orange lines on the central pose) and the overall rectangularity of the frame (brown lines in the center). The seat is installed only after complete check of levelness; filing the legs of a finished stool is complete unprofessionalism.

Below in Fig. – drawings of a stool for the kitchen with a seat mounted on dowels. This design is less labor-intensive and material-intensive, because operations for the manufacture and installation of crackers are eliminated, but the seat panel must be firmly solidified, see below. If the frames are installed on the legs, they should not reach the floor by 20-40 mm, so as not to scratch it.

Note: The cuts of the tenons at 45 degrees in both cases are made with the same frame hacksaw. A fixed miter box (device for sawing at an angle) at fixed angles of 90, 45 and 60 degrees costs no more than 50 rubles.

How to join boards into a shield

The boards that will now be the plots of the set (package) are usually joined into boards with glue using special clips - weims, top left in Fig. In weims, small additionally secured shields, like for the seat of a stool, can be simply joined together end-to-end. Large panels, say, for a table top or the side of a cabinet, are joined together (middle row from left to right) with a tongue and groove, in a rebate, on dowels, dowels (lamellas) and other methods.

In handicraft work, clamps are sometimes replaced with various homemade devices on the same principle (compressing the set with pairs of wedges), at the top right, and now more and more often with large F-shaped clamps. In this case, a rather labor-intensive preparation of the plots is necessary for consolidation using methods a, c or d. However, there is still no guarantee that the set, when compressed, if it does not rear up all like an accordion, will go in a wave, because It is impossible to achieve absolutely precise mating of wooden parts under load due to the low local strength of the wood.

However, there is a way to attach the shield to the seat of a stool end-to-end, completely even and without complex devices, this is the so-called. twisted rim with cheek liners; its diagram is given below in Fig. Step-by-step bonding of the shield in a twisted wire is carried out as follows:

1. The lower (according to the diagram) plywood cheek is placed on the table;
2. The table with the cheek is covered with plastic film;
3. Glue is applied to the edges of the plots and kept until tack-free or according to the glue instructions;
4. The plots are placed on the lower cheek on top of the film and, if possible, squeezed tightly with your hands;
5. Wrap the set in film;
6. Apply the upper cheek;
7. The entire package is carefully, without lifting or turning over, moved to the edge of the table so that some part of the set hangs above the floor;
8. Begin winding the cord, applying the turns as tightly as possible, but not too tightly;
9. When the bag is wrapped about 1/3 or more, it can be removed from the table and wound by weight;
10. The ends of the cord are tied;
11. Insert wedges under the winding, tapping with a mallet. You need 4 wedges, they are inserted evenly from 4 sides (2 from above and 2 from below), tapping alternately;
12. When the wedges pull all the turns of the winding tightly evenly, the bag is left until the glue dries completely;
13. After the glue has dried, the winding, cheeks and film are removed, and the set is cut to size.

The cross section of the wedges does not have to be rectangular; it is possible to use round sticks cut obliquely; There is only one condition - the wedges need to be smooth. It is advisable to use a slippery propylene cord; packaging twine will do. The thickness of the wedges is determined based on existing experience. If there is none, then the package is first assembled dry, without glue, and the thickness of the wedges is selected so that they fit completely under the winding, pulling its turns tightly.

How about softer? DIY stool covers

Sitting on a hard surface for a long time is understandably unpleasant. A comfortable stool on a classic kitchen frame can be made with a wicker seat, without bothering with breadcrumbs, dowels and a shield, see fig. The seat material is colored propylene twine and smooth linen cord.

It is highly desirable for decorative stools in the living room to be beautifully soft, and it wouldn’t hurt to give a kitchen stool some shine. But there is not and cannot be a stool on which no one would ever stand. Or, at least, he did not feel a strong desire to do this for completely objective reasons caused by the prevailing circumstances. Hence the conclusion: the stool needs a soft, elegant padding on the seat - a seat - which, if necessary, could be removed without fiddling for a long time, and just as quickly put back.

The first thing that comes to mind in this case is decorative pillow, see eg. video below. But the pillow can be accidentally dumped on the floor, and it itself will slowly slide down there. Another option is a case with a soft liner. A cover for a chair or armchair is a rather complex sewing product, but with a stool the situation is simpler.

Video: decorative pillow on a stool/chair

Covers for stools are mainly made the following types, see fig. Pos. 1 – cape with ties. It’s the easiest thing to sew, but the ties stick out in plain sight, and there’s a lot of fiddling around with them, especially if the stool is for children and the baby has figured out something of his own with the knots.

The next option is a cape with an elastic band. She can look great, pos. 2, and you can remove it by simply pulling it off. The structure of a stool cover is generally the same as permanent soft upholstery: from bottom to top, foam rubber, synthetic padding and upholstery fabric, but there are a couple of tricks here.

Firstly, it is better to take foam rubber from PVC, yellowish soft, pos. 3. It is not suitable for permanent upholstery of furniture, because... relatively short-lived. But in the case of a stool, another feature comes to the fore: it adheres well to wood, incl. varnished, so that the cape will not slide to the side and under the angry rider.

Secondly, it is better to cut the cover for a square stool diagonally, i.e. The warp and weft of the fabric should go from corner to corner. In this case, there is no need for cutting as such: the cut is thrown onto the seat (the folds create beautiful and smoothly fitting corners), where to cut is marked, cut and sewn.

Note: the cover for the round stool needs to be cut; an example of its manufacture - see the video below:

Video: a simple do-it-yourself cover for a round stool

An option that is also quite soft, original, beautiful and grippy to wood is a rug for a stool using the patchwork technique, i.e. patchwork, pos. 4; see e.g. plot:

Video: seat-mat on a stool using patchwork technique

Finally, a knitted cape, pos. 5. This option is labor-intensive and almost exclusively decorative. It allows you to achieve a magnificent visual effect, but, alas, a knitted cape will retain its appearance for a long time only on a stool that is not sat on.

In conclusion: immediate aerobatics

Stools with diverging legs are very elegant. It is generally accepted that they are not for everyone. The reason is drilling holes at a precisely specified angle; see fig. for example. drawings of details of a stool with turned legs. Here, firstly, you cannot do without drilling machine. A relatively inexpensive benchtop stand for a drill does not help: the shaft cage in it is too short, which is why, in combination with the plastic body, the drill moves by half a degree, or even more. Such an error is enough to make the stool crooked and shaky.

Secondly, adjusting the parts of a stool of this design during the assembly process is excluded; everything must be done immediately exactly to size from solid, high-quality wood. See the steel plate at the bottom right in the picture? This is a gauge for checking the diameter of studs. In this case, regardless of the design and overall design, they must be round, i.e. needed and lathe on wood.

Now let’s go back to the “3 to 5” stool. Let's reduce the size g to 100 mm, this is acceptable. Is it now possible to make this stool with spreading legs? Quite. They will, of course, not be chiseled and not quite round, but the grace and lightness of the stool will be preserved. This is what the aesthetic potential of a stool means in practice.