Plywood - building material, the active use of which is required by the production of furniture, packaging and even the automotive industry. Wood veneer is used to make this multilayer material. coniferous trees. The result is a durable structure that can be secured using screws, nails and bolts, but the most convenient option is glue.
Methods for laying plywood
How to glue plywood to plywood? The most environmentally friendly is water-based glue. It is completely odorless and can be diluted with water and used instead of a primer. This installation requires additional fastening, and the main disadvantage is long-term drying.
Solvent-based glue dries a little less quickly - 3-5 days. In this case, you need to pre-soak concrete screed special primer. The disadvantage is the strong smell.
How to glue plywood to plywood and save time? This desire can be maximally satisfied by using it. It dries in about 24 hours and does not require dowel nails.
How to choose glue for plywood
The solution to the question of which plywood is better for plywood depends on the type of connection and further operating conditions. The process can be represented self-installation plywood on screed or carry additional function, for example, to strengthen the structure.
If you plan to use unveneered plywood, then you can purchase any glue. The main requirement is a dry and clean surface. To apply the composition to both surfaces to be glued, it is better to use a roller or brush. After this, you can strengthen the plywood connection with nails, screws or clamps. Finally, you need to remove the excess mixture.
How to glue plywood to plywood if whole sheets will be used? You just need to cover the surfaces with the mixture and then press them down with temporary dowel nails.
It is not recommended to glue a laminated surface covered with a film, so before applying the epoxy compound, the sheets must be sanded with sandpaper.
How to glue plywood to plywood so as not to disturb the texture of the material and not cause a change in color, but at the same time obtain a high-strength structure? For interior work PVA glue is ideal, and for external ones - phenol or
The level of reliability of the connection is affected not only by the mixture applied, but also by strict adherence to the recommendations, since if the latter are violated, the properties of the glue may not be fully revealed.
Glue composition
Almost any adhesive for gluing plywood is based on the following components:
- main adhesive ingredient;
- solvent;
- filler, which is usually used as wood dust or flour;
- additives that directly affect the rate of hardening and maximum adhesion;
- plasticizer;
- antiseptic.
The hardener is usually some kind of acid or ammonium chloride, and resistance to wetting is guaranteed by the presence of tannins (formalin, copper salts, etc.).
Glue requirements
Plywood glue should have the following positive qualities:
- reliable fastening of materials;
- ease of use at home;
- good moisture resistance;
- not susceptible to the destructive effects of bacteria and fungi.
It is equally important that the adhesive does not destroy the wood veneer or change its color.
Which glue is better: "KS" or "Tarbikol"?
When deciding how to glue plywood to plywood, people most often choose “KS” or “Tabrikol”.
A little more about their properties and features:
The influence of plywood grade on the choice of adhesive composition
The brand of suitable plywood adhesive directly depends on the level of strength required and on how high the humidity is in the room in which the structure is planned to be used.
What kind of glue to glue plywood to plywood if finished product will it be in a well-ventilated area? PVA, protein or synthetic, works well.
If you plan to make country furniture, which will be located both indoors and outdoors, it is better to use one of the synthetic compounds.
Once the choice has been made in favor of a moisture-resistant material for interior space, you need to determine how to glue plywood to plywood. Reviews indicate that it is better to join with compounds based on The use of uncoated sheets makes it possible to glue plywood with any type of glue.
How much glue is needed to lay plywood on a concrete surface?
The amount of consumption depends on the number of irregularities, the presence or absence of porosity and the quality of the screed. You should proceed from the recommended consumption of 1.2-1.5 kg/m2, but do not forget that the plywood must be laid on a base without voids. Only uniform pressing of the plywood to the base can ensure optimal distribution of the glue over the entire surface.
Tools and materials needed for work
Before you start working with plywood, you should stock up on the following tools:
- foam roller;
- clamps;
- with a hammer.
You also need to prepare the necessary materials:
- blanks;
- sanding paper;
- nails.
Plywood gluing sequence
Before you get started, you should figure out how to glue plywood to plywood. The instructions below reveal in as much detail as possible all the intricacies of this process:
- First, the plywood sheets need to be cleaned of dust and various types of contaminants. To remove the laminated layer you will need
- Then the plywood should be thoroughly dried.
- It is recommended to distribute the glue to obtain an even layer using a roller.
- Now you need to press the plywood parts together with clamps. It is recommended to remove protruding excess with a knife and rags.
- If there are large parts, they will need to be connected with nails.
- Finally, when the adhesive mass is completely dry, the product must be freed from the clamps.
Coffee table made from plywood scraps
A lot has been said about how to glue plywood to plywood, but how can you make something useful from this material?
After conducting various repair work There are a lot of plywood scraps left that just go into the trash.
But these pieces are ideal, for example, for creating an unusual and beautiful coffee table.
List of materials and tools required for work:
- a whole small piece of thick cardboard for a template;
- many plywood pieces of the same thickness, which will make up the main structure;
- moisture-resistant adhesive for wooden surfaces;
- jigsaw;
- pencil;
- vice;
- circular saw;
- grinding machine;
Gluing plywood: a practical example
How to quickly make a plywood table? First you need to make a paper template for cutting out the legs of the product. coffee table It will look good on openwork or curved legs.
You need to take a large sheet of paper and draw legs on it on a scale of 1:1. When transferring the design onto cardboard, remember that the finished structure should be placed on symmetrical legs.
After completing the work with the template, you can proceed to gluing the plywood pieces. The structure must be manufactured in such a way that the shape resembles the future table legs. Gluing each 2 parts must be accompanied by removing excess mortar and tightly compressing the plywood pieces. To complete the work, the legs should be placed on a flat surface, a template should be placed on top of them and the outline should be traced with a pencil. To trim off the excess structure, you will need a jigsaw. Place the tabletop on top of the product and connect the parts together.
Often in everyday life or when making furniture we have to glue different materials together. In carpentry and furniture, the craftsman's skills in this type of work play a big role.
The quality of gluing depends, first of all, on the pre-treatment of the bonded surfaces. The surfaces to be glued are thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, and remnants of old glue or paint; the surface must always be dry and clean. Materials with a mirror-smooth surface do not adhere well to each other, so clean them with a knife, sandpaper or file.
When gluing metal, porcelain, glass, stone and some other parts, it is necessary to first degrease them by washing them with warm soapy water and then rinsing. You can also degrease the surface by wiping them with a swab dipped in the solution. ammonia gasoline, acetone, baking soda solution.
When gluing various materials you need to follow several rules: apply glue to the surface only in a thin layer, but so that there are no missing spots. The glue should be free of any impurities (sawdust, dust, etc.) and of uniform consistency, that is, it should not contain lumps. A thick layer of thick glue does not in any way contribute to a stronger bond. According to the instructions, some types of adhesives should be heated before use. We would advise you not only to heat the glue itself, but also to heat the materials being glued. Then the bonding strength will increase.
As a rule, the parts to be glued are dried in a warm place not lower than 18 ° C. The parts should be pressed tightly together using a press, pressure or vice.
When gluing wood, it is recommended to heat the surfaces to be glued. It is desirable that the humidity of the parts being glued be the same, but, in any case, does not exceed 10-12%. We would recommend that you glue dry wood with animal and synthetic glues. Animal glues include bone and casein glues. Let us immediately note that preparing bone glue for work requires quite a lot of time, but this disadvantage is more than compensated by its advantages. It is advantageous to use it when a large volume of work is performed. The joints glued with this glue are very strong, which distinguishes it from others, even expensive ones, such as BF-2. The glued parts can withstand loads of up to 60 kg per 1 square meter. cm, which is several times higher than that of other adhesives. And finally, tiles of dry wood glue can be stored indefinitely; they practically do not deteriorate.
Wood glue should be prepared in a special glue cooker. The glue cooker consists of two tin vessels, one of which (the wider one) is filled with water, and the second (smaller in size) is filled with glue and placed in the first one. The glue gun can be successfully replaced with ordinary tin cans, one of which is larger than the other. Such a device (water bath) prevents the glue from burning and can maintain heat for a long time. To make bone glue, first break the dry glue into small pieces and add water. Let the glue swell for 10-12 hours, and then let it cook. For cooking liquid glue For 4 parts by weight of dry glue, take 3-4 parts of water. The glue should be heated, stirring, so that the entire mass is obtained without clots or grains. Do not bring the glue to a boil; this may reduce its adhesiveness and durability. Determine the readiness of the glue by dipping a stick into it.
The glue is ready if it flows slowly from the stick in a thick, even stream. If the glue turns out to be too thick during cooking, you can dilute it hot water. When working they use hot glue, if it has cooled down a little, it can be heated in a water bath. Don't brew it right away large number glue. Brew as much as you need to carry out the work; reheating already hardened glue worsens its properties. When preparing bone glue, you can also give it fire-resistant properties. To do this, dissolve 100 g of glue in 200 g of water and cook it in a glue cooker until you get a thick composition, and then add 40 g of drying oil to it and boil it again. An increase in the adhesiveness of the composition can be achieved by adding zinc or lead white to the glue at a ratio of 25:2.
When preparing casein glue, take 300-400 g of water room temperature and pour 100 g of glue powder into it. The glue powder must be poured into the water gradually, stirring constantly until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed. Ready mix At first it will be thick, and it is set aside for a while to liquefy. There is no need to add water to the mixture. The finished glue should flow from the stick in a continuous stream, leaving a thin shiny film on it. Remember that casein glue is not heated, since at temperatures above 40 °C casein coagulates and loses its adhesive properties. You can prepare adhesive powder at home, provided you have the necessary ingredients. The glue contains 7 parts by weight of dry casein powder and 1 part by weight of borax (sodium boric acid).
To prepare glue from such a powder you will need 8 parts by weight of water. Pour in casein cold water in a 1:1 ratio and leave for 3 hours. Dissolve borax in hot water and pour the resulting solution over the swollen casein. Stir continuously until thick enough homogeneous mass. Parts glued with casein glue are kept under pressure for 4 hours, but the glue finally dries only after 12 hours. The big advantage of casein glue is that it can glue wood high humidity. Wood can also be glued with other adhesives, such as synthetic wood glue, various resin adhesives and some other uses, please read the instructions carefully.
Sometimes it is necessary to glue plastic, leather, leatherette, decorative plywood, fabric or synthetic film onto a wooden surface. Plywood can be firmly glued to wood using casein or synthetic wood glue. You can also glue plywood with tile wood glue, but it creates a noticeable dark-colored seam. Do not apply a layer of glue directly to thin plywood as it may shrink. It is better to cover the surface of the wood with a layer of glue, and then apply it on it. plywood sheet and press tightly on top with pressure. The pressure should be approximately 8 kg and should lie under pressure for about 7-8 hours.
To glue plastic, use rubber-based adhesives. These can be adhesives such as 88N, Zh-3, KR-1, "Elastosila-2". Before gluing, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of the wood or plastic.
Clean the wood from dust, and sand the back side of the plastic until the plastic becomes slightly rough. Be especially careful around corners and edges. Then wipe the treated surface of the plastic with a swab dipped in gasoline to degrease it. Apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces to be glued and connect them. Pressing the plastic firmly against the wood, run your hands from the middle to the edges to squeeze out all the air from under the plastic, and then place something heavy on the plastic so that the pressure is evenly distributed over the entire surface to be glued, at least 4-5 kg per 1 sq. . see. Leave the oppression for half an hour. These glues are completely cured within 24 hours.
To glue fabric, leather, leatherette to a wooden base, use adhesives: “Oak”, “Unicum”, BF-6, “Polyvinyl acetate”.
Also, at home, if you have the necessary components, you can prepare a high-quality adhesive composition. For this you will need 400 g wheat flour, 30 g of rosin, 15 g of aluminum alum and 100 g of water. Mix the dry ingredients, add water and place on low heat, or better yet, use a glue boiler. While preparing the glue, do not forget to stir it periodically to prevent lumps from forming. As soon as the glue begins to thicken it is ready. Make sure that the adhesive composition is uniform. This glue is used only when hot. Leather and leatherette (without a fabric base) degrease synthetic films with acetone and gasoline. Fabrics in pre-treatment do not need before gluing. Cover both surfaces with glue and iron with a warm iron through a wet cloth until dry.
It is better not to glue fabrics and synthetic films with BF-6 and “Polyvinyl acetate” adhesives, since BF-6 glue can show through the front surface and stain the fabrics yellowish. Polyvinyl acetate glue is destroyed by water.
It is best to glue metal parts to wood using rubber adhesives, such as Zh-3, KR-1, 88-N, 88-NP, Patex, Elastosila-2. If you need to stick to wooden surface small metal objects (hooks, shelves), we would not recommend using the first three of the named brands of adhesives. These adhesives form so-called “creeping joints”, that is, under the influence of loads, a metal object will move off the wooden surface. Before gluing, file the surface of the metal to make it rough, and then degrease it with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to both surfaces to be glued, clamp the parts in a vice and leave for a few minutes. The glue will finally dry in 10-12 hours.
For gluing smooth surfaces, use the same adhesives, glue "Elastosila-2".
Apply a thin layer of glue to surfaces previously degreased with acetone and leave for one hour. After this, wipe the surfaces with a swab soaked in acetone and connect them. Clamp the glued parts in a vice for 4-5 hours. The glue will finally harden in 10-12 hours.
Glass is most often glued with adhesives such as Polyvinyl Acetate, Mars, Super Cement, BF-2, Patex, Unicum. These adhesives form virtually colorless seams and are not destroyed by moisture. Before gluing, degrease the glass with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and let it dry a little for 10 minutes. Apply a second layer and after 2-3 minutes connect the parts to be glued. The parts should be pressed tightly against each other for 20-30 minutes. The glue hardens completely only after a day.
To glue glass and metal together, take “Glue-sealant”, “Elastosila-2”, “Unicum”. Degrease both surfaces, lubricate with glue and clamp the parts in a clamp for 30 minutes. The glue will finally harden and become waterproof after three days.
You can glue glass to wood, as well as glue fabric or cardboard onto it using PVA, PVA-A, or Polyvinyl Acetate adhesives. Degrease the glass with acetone, lubricate the surfaces with glue and place the parts under the press for an hour. The glue will dry in a day.
At home, BF-2 or "Epoxy" glue is used for gluing metals. Clean surfaces from dust, dirt, rust using sandpaper. Rinse treated surfaces clean water and dry well. Degrease surfaces with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of glue to the surface and leave it there for an hour. Then place the workpieces coated with glue in the oven, heated to 50-60 oC, and dry for 10-15 minutes. Apply a second layer of glue to the metal and, as soon as it begins to dry (no longer sticks to your fingers), connect the parts to each other. It is better if you clamp the parts in a vice and dry them in the oven at a temperature of 130-150 oC for 1-2 hours. Cold drying
It hardens completely only after 2-3 days.
Epoxy glue is indispensable in some cases. It consists of two components, resin and hardener.
When using it, work with gloves, as the hardener is poisonous; If you get hardener on your hands, remove it with a swab soaked in acetone, and then wash your hands running water. Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is advisable to heat the resin in a bowl with hot water, but not higher than 30 ° C. Mix warm resin with hardener in the ratio specified in the instructions, and use the prepared glue as you would others.
Also read in this section:
Useful tips about repairs
Tips from housewives on cleaning the apartment, cleaning carpets, caring for furniture. What cleaning products to use. And also how to quickly remove a blockage in the kitchen or restore chipped enamel in the bathroom. How to repair a rubber boot.
Insulation
Everything about how to insulate doors, walls, windows, floors, ceilings or ceilings. Here's how to make an attic warm and what materials to use. Everything about methods and technologies for insulating houses, cottages, and basements. You can calculate the material consumption.
Insulation materials
How to correctly select materials for thermal insulation work, in what proportions to prepare cement mortar for walls, how to insulate country house. Recommendations will help you choose materials that have fire-resistant and low thermal conductivity properties.
A good basis for sketches is a primed canvas glued to plywood or cardboard. Take appropriately sized, completely dry plywood or cardboard of sufficient thickness (3-10 mm) and, having glued their surface with a solution of wood glue, stick it soaked in the same glue solution and lightly wrung out canvas, smooth it out, let it dry well and then prime it with one of the primer compositions used for canvas.
PAPER
Quite an interesting soft base. It is varied and easy to use. Due to the absorption properties of paper, paints on it dry faster and become matte. The variety of paper textures makes it even more attractive to painters.
The paper is not recommended for serious oil painting as it is not considered durable. This is certainly a valid point. But, nevertheless, work small sizes Not paper based can make a good impression. Of course, when using paper, basic precautions must be taken. Choose only high-quality art paper. Use only 100% acid-free rag paper and pay attention to its density. The thicker the paper, the better.
The best paper for drawings with an Italian pencil and sauce, you should consider only rag paper, since any other paper, including Alexandrian paper, intended specifically for drawing, with prolonged rubbing with a shading brush, eraser, etc., easily loses its surface and becomes fleecy than, Of course, it spoils the drawing.
They are specially made for charcoal drawings. various varieties paper with a very rough and grainy surface. Paper glued with canvas is also produced.
Thick paper as a base requires some fairly simple preparation. A sheet of paper must be firmly glued onto the cardboard (preferably with fish glue or wood glue), then glue the paper with fish glue, let it dry well and cover it with a thin layer of oil-based lead white. The cardboard must be stuffed onto the stretcher. Paper prepared in this way serves as a good basis for oil painting. The painting is preserved well on it and does not crack or tear the paint layer. A number of sketches made on thick Whatman paper glued to cardboard are perfectly preserved for 80-100 years.
You can glue the paper onto the canvas using starch paste, to which a small amount of wood glue is added.
When gluing paper on both sides, use a 4-5% gelatin solution. Then the paper is stretched onto the board, placing another sheet under it.
Composition of gelatin primer for paper
Gelatin 100 g
Painting oil 200 g
Soap (baby) 10 g
Dry zinc white 300 g
Glycerin 15 g
After drying, the soil is tanned with formaldehyde.
Most types of colored paper, with the exception of some yellow tones, quickly lose their color in the light, usually taking on yellowish shades; in some cases, however, the original tone turns into a new one.
One of the favorite activities of any child is to make various crafts with their own hands or together with their parents.
Today we will look at crafts made from dried autumn leaves.
In order to have something to make a craft from, you first need to collect and dry a collection of autumn leaves.
A few recommendations:
1. It is better to choose freshly fallen leaves and, if possible, dry and clean.
2. Leaves are useful for different trees. The most commonly used leaves are maple, oak, birch and rowan.
3. The collected bouquet must be divided into separate leaves. Place the leaves between each other with sheets of paper (or put them in an old and not very necessary book or magazine). Sometimes autumn leaves are ironed through a sheet of paper or newspaper to dry faster.
4. Autumn leaves, carefully laid between sheets of paper, must be placed under a heavy and flat press (for example, a stack of books). Sometimes the leaves are placed in a box and covered with layers of dry sand for better preservation. color shades, but this method will cause a lot of trouble when cleaning the room.
5. During the drying period (usually from 1 week to 1 month), put everything to be dried along with the press away from the child’s eyes (for example, in a closet) so that the child is not tempted to take out the leaves ahead of time.
From leaves dried in this way, you can make a variety of crafts in the form of panels, appliqués and gift souvenirs (see drawings by L.V. Grushina). Their plot is limited only by your imagination.
For leaf application you need:
1.cardboard or thick paper – (selected by color and texture depending on the plot and mood),
2. PVA glue and glue stick,
3. tracing paper or thin paper - it is better to stick fragile and brittle leaves on them first and only then on cardboard!
4. scissors – you can use them to trim leaves as needed,
5.pencil - for drawing an outline (it’s easier to assemble an applique using it),
6.brush and paints - they will allow you to complete the missing elements (nose, tail, eyes, ears, mustache, etc.),
7. tweezers - they are convenient for selecting the exact position of the leaves and turning them over.
Dear friends, I again have a question for the audience, “because you know everything.” It’s not that I don’t know how to glue paper. :-) But progress is moving forward, the market is flooded with a million varieties of glue, and the task is serious.
Imagine a postcard like this:
Paper - 300g. It has a glossy plotter print on it. those. the surface is quite smooth. And this postcard will ideally be opened and closed several times in its life, i.e. this will be moved, and I would like it not to fall apart.
In this postcard, I specially designed everything so that large planes would be glued to the ride. But when somewhere you need to glue a very small “dart” (and the gluing plane is about 5 mm, and at the same time there is some tension, and this place will be subject to some load) it falls apart even more readily.
I have children's books that are so long that they will soon be 30 years old. And they still haven’t fallen apart (not counting those places that the children simply tore off with their hands). What were they glued with?
For me today, the most reliable glue is good old PVA. Once it dries out and grabs it, it holds it tightly. But it has two drawbacks: if you smear it on a more or less noticeable surface, it can create waves. And when it dries, it releases quite a lot of moisture. Sometimes you put something freshly glued under a press or in a frame, but a couple of days later it comes out - wet! Those. You can’t just glue it together and give it away - you have to dry it. Well, that's okay. The main thing that confuses me about PVA is the waves.
And everyone else... There is a so-called “hot gun” with plastic tubes that melt and glue with them. It supposedly holds up well. But the layer turns out to be too thick, and it also falls off.
There are all sorts of sticks like this, they are often praised. But I don't believe them either. After some time, everything glued together by them safely falls apart.
It would also be nice, of course, if the glue didn’t get too dirty. This is another good thing about PVA - it becomes transparent after drying.
Many people praise rubber cement. But firstly, sometimes it unexpectedly produces greasy stains. And secondly, over time it also weathers and evaporates.
There is also a normal paste that is made from starch, it seems. Like this:
http://www.manufactum.de/papierkleber-coccoina-p752391/
But he didn’t convince me either.
So the question is: what is the best glue for paper? To hold it well. Even if the gluing area is small, but there is some load? And so that there is not a lot of dirt from it (and all sorts of greasy stains). And so that the paper, all wet, does not worry. And for a long time. So that in a year or five it will still hold up.
Well, or maybe someone just knows what industrial production(in printing houses?) do they glue voluminous books and voluminous postcards together?