Chrysanthemum is a flower with a very unusual history. Its exact homeland is unknown, there is debate about where this wonderful flower came to us, some say from Japan, others say from China, and others mention all of East Asia.

However, be that as it may, all this does not negate the fact that the chrysanthemum is stunningly beautiful, so beautiful that in Japan the highest award is called the Order of the Chrysanthemum, and one emperor ordered a seal with its image.

Perhaps for this history and its beauty, growing it at home is not so easy, since many factors will influence its beauty and health. All this and much more is written below.

Chrysanthemum home - description

Chrysanthemum domestica has a short stature. This is due to the fact that it is grown artificially in greenhouses, where special equipment stop its growth for decoration.

Some have had to deal with the fact that when they bought a cutting and tried to grow it, they ended up with a large bush that looked more like a garden bush than a home bush. In this regard, it is worth saying a few words about how to choose the right homemade chrysanthemums in pots.

First of all, take a close look at appearance plants. It should be strong, dense, the leaves should be well developed, and there should be no insects on the trunk. This will allow her to quickly get used to home conditions. This way it will not become infected and will not affect the growth of other already established flowers.

Which varieties are suitable for growing at home?

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home is particularly difficult, but if you follow the basic nuances, the plant will delight you with long, lush flowering. Chrysanthemum flowers are often used to create original bouquets. They look great alone or as part of a flower arrangement.

The variety of varieties and varieties will make a bouquet of chrysanthemums a real surprise, allowing you to get away from standard roses and gerberas.

Recently, it has also become popular to give fresh flowers in a pot. The advantages are obvious: a longer flowering period and the possibility of further breeding. At the same time, it often turns out that after the phase of vegetative activity the plant is considered dead. To prolong the life of your pet and enjoy it for a long time beautiful flowers, you can use the advice in our article and grow a full-fledged indoor plant.

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Home varieties

Of course, ordinary garden crops will not feel comfortable at home. They are too big and cold-loving for this. At the same time, breeders have developed enough varieties of chrysanthemums, the cultivation of which is quite possible in apartment conditions.

Before purchasing, be sure to check this point with the seller, and also take care in advance to create suitable conditions for your pet, which will be discussed a little later.

Varieties of varieties and classification of chrysanthemums

The most common and numerous variety of this flower is the Korean chrysanthemum. There are many varieties of it, and most have nothing in common with each other. The classification is mainly based on the configuration of leaves and inflorescences. Korean varieties are most often used for growing at home.

Indian chrysanthemum is also very popular; it has more refined shapes and the size of its inflorescences. Indoor varieties are distinguished by a relatively high stem on which a large flower (up to 15 cm in diameter) is located. Most varieties Indian chrysanthemum grown as garden plants.

Features of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum multiflora is an almost perfect ball with small-sized inflorescences. A characteristic feature is the shape of the flower, as well as numerous buds and active flowering, which lasts from a month to two. After the flowers fall, it is necessary to trim the stems, then bring the pot into the shelter. You can decorate your summer cottage with such forms, but for wintering it is better to find enough warm room with good ventilation.

Zembla chrysanthemum is more in demand as garden culture, but it can also be found among the description indoor plants. Characteristics This plant will have fairly large inflorescences, petals rolled into an incomplete tube and a wide range of colors. The most common will be yellow chrysanthemums, but among selection varieties There are even greenish and blue flowers.

Classification of chrysanthemums

General classification of chrysanthemums:

• If the size of the inflorescences is less than 80 mm, such varieties are called small-flowered. Large-flowered plants, accordingly, have a much larger diameter.
• Based on the shape of the inflorescences, they are distinguished between blanket and double-row, double and semi-double. You can find a general name - spherical chrysanthemum, which combines several groups with round voluminous inflorescences.
• According to the flowering period, early, middle and late flowering specimens are distinguished. This classification is important if you also want to collect seeds for further growing flowers. In late-flowering varieties, they, as a rule, do not have time to ripen, so they are not suitable for planting.
• The height of the stem also classifies chrysanthemums into border (up to 30 cm) and medium (up to 50 cm in height).
• The shape of the petals and their arrangement can be chamomile-like, with a pronounced core (usually contrasting color). Double flowers do not have this feature, but can attract attention with petals of different lengths and configurations.

It is impossible to describe all the varieties of this flower, much less indicate them all. possible options colors “Classic” white chrysanthemums are not inferior in popularity to roses and tulips, and a variety of rainbow mixes will cheer you up during the cold season.

Popular varieties

Indoor chrysanthemum is more compact in size; when forming a bush, it forms attractive spherical trees. In addition to the purely visual effect, this plant is famous for its positive energy and in many beliefs has earned the fame of a family amulet.

The chrysanthemum is most popular and universally loved in Eastern cultures, especially Japan. There this plant is grown everywhere and is a symbol of wealth, love and prosperity. To successfully grow the Japanese version of a lucky horseshoe at home, you must adhere to certain requirements.

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What to look for when purchasing

Chrysanthemums are presented in such quantities on the markets that choosing just one bush is not easy. But try to be very careful, because success directly depends on how picky you are.

Never buy chrysanthemums with fully blossomed inflorescences - specimens whose inflorescences are no more than half blossomed will bloom better and longer.

The bushes should be fully formed, powerful, the shoots should be woody below, and the leaves should be healthy. Please note that yellowing of foliage and spots on leaves and shoots are unacceptable.

Light mode for potted chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are crops that are abundant flowering A short daylight hours is sufficient. But this does not mean that they are content with shaded locations.

During the entire period of active development, including flowering, chrysanthemums should be provided with the sunniest and brightest locations, where the plants will not suffer from midday rays or will be shaded from them by neighboring potted plants.

In winter, chrysanthemums are kept in dark rooms (with the exception of specimens that continue to bloom, which are transferred to the brightest locations of the rooms and are planned to be thrown away after flowering)

Temperature conditions

Potted chrysanthemums (both garden and indoor) love cool weather, especially at the flowering stage. These are not the most heat-resistant crops, which are comfortable only in typical autumn conditions. The higher the air temperature, the faster the inflorescences fade and the less chrysanthemums produce new buds.

That is why it is better to keep even miniature indoor plants outdoors during flowering. The optimal temperature regime for potted chrysanthemums is from 10-15 to 17-20 degrees Celsius or a little more.

If chrysanthemums are in temperatures above 21-22 degrees during the flowering period, they will not be able to set buds normally for flowering next year, and even a cold winter will not give the expected effect.

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Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we’ll talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. Material from the mother plant is cut sharp knife. You cannot break off the petioles, otherwise they may not be accepted.

The bush will grow beautiful and lush only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container.

You need to drill several holes at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil is poured into it, mixed with some organic fertilizer.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot also comes down to proper soil preparation. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather delicate plant that is easily infected by various types of viral and fungal diseases.

• The cut petioles are carefully buried in the ground.
• After 20-25 days, roots form on them.
• As soon as this happens, they should be carefully transferred, along with a lump of earth, into a small flower pot.
• In this case, the adult plant will take the form of a beautiful lush bouquet.

Earth in new pot pour the same one. That is, they mix nutritious soil with organic fertilizer. You can also use fertilized peat.

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Watering

The purchased chrysanthemum must be watered carefully. On the one hand, this plant is quite demanding when it comes to watering. On the other hand, excess moisture can cause root rot or the development of fungal diseases.

To prevent this from happening, you need to ensure good drainage: there must be a hole in the pot, and a layer of gravel or moss at the bottom. This will help remove all excess moisture from the pot.

• On average, chrysanthemums are watered no more than 2 times a week. You just need to make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
• Spraying the leaves plays an important role; it helps prevent dehydration.
• Dried leaves must be removed promptly. And healthy leaves are regularly cleaned of dust.

You cannot use regular tap water for irrigation. You need to pass it through a filter and leave it for a couple of days. The water should not be cold, otherwise the plant is at risk of disease.

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Humidity

Chrysanthemum prefers high humidity. Therefore, the plant should be sprayed regularly. The frequency of spraying is one (two) times a day. If the grower simply does not have a spray bottle, then you can simply place a saucer or jar of water next to your home plantings.

Protection from dust and dirt

Chrysanthemum leaves should be regularly wiped to remove accumulated dust and other contaminants. This can be done with a regular damp cloth. Some gardeners place the pot in the bathtub and gently wash away any accumulated dust using a shower head.

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Caring for chrysanthemums in a pot, applying fertilizers

Fertilizer application is a mandatory measure, because chrysanthemum requires a lot for its development. nutrients. IN different times different additives should be used each year. They can be divided into:

• nitrogen;
• potassium;
• phosphorus.

Nitrogen fertilizers are used during active flower growth, that is, in spring. These supplements are important for correct formation shoots and active growth of leaves.

In the summer, they stop fertilizing chrysanthemums with nitrogen fertilizers, since at this time the active growth of the plant stops and preparation for flowering begins.

In mid-August, start feeding potassium supplements with some phosphorus. Closer to October, everything should be the other way around: more phosphorus with the addition of potassium. These additives are needed by the plant for lush flowering and have a good winter.

Chrysanthemum in a pot, care after flowering

How to care for home chrysanthemums in pots after flowering? When all the buds dry out, they should be removed. Also cut off any dead or damaged branches.

• After this, gradually reduce watering and place the flower in the place where it will winter.
• If you want to achieve double flowering, then think about it in advance.
• In any case, you will have to organize dormant conditions in which the plant will gain strength.

After this, you can put the flower in a warm place ahead of time, increase watering, and also adjust changes in daylight hours. All these measures can make the chrysanthemum bloom in late February-early March.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home in winter

How to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot winter time year? At this time, the chrysanthemum does not need to be watered heavily, and it should not be fertilized at all. Place the flower in a room with an air temperature of no more than 5 degrees. Such conditions may occur in an unheated storage room or cellar.

Some gardeners believe that indoor chrysanthemums should be pruned for the winter, as is done with garden flowers. But many experts consider this an unnecessary measure, since an indoor flower is not threatened by frosts and other vicissitudes, so there is no need to be afraid that high branches will take too much strength from the flower.

Before wintering, it is advisable to treat the chrysanthemum with antimicrobial agents. They will eliminate the possibility of infecting the flower with pests, which, unlike plants, do not sleep in winter.

How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot in early spring?

In spring, plants begin to wake up and grow actively. Chrysanthemums in a pot also do this, how to care for them at this time? First of all, you should increase watering of the flower, since it needs moisture for growth. At the same time, you should not make a swamp in the flowerpot. Abundant watering should not turn into a “bay”.

Next, you should think about replanting the plant. This work is usually done in the spring. If the plant is young, then you should choose a flowerpot for it larger size than the previous one. For an adult plant, you can leave the same container.

Prepare the soil for chrysanthemums yourself, since store-bought substrates are universal and are rarely suitable for this particular flower. To prepare the soil, take:

• universal primer;
• peat;
• perlite;
• sand.

Mix all the ingredients so that the soil is loose, but remains nutritious. Pour it into a flowerpot on top of the drainage, which should be mandatory. It eliminates the possibility of water stagnation in the flowerpot.

Replant chrysanthemum better method transshipment. This way its roots are less damaged. After transplantation, the plant is watered a little and placed in a well-lit place.

There is no need to apply fertilizers in the first month after transplantation. They will only harm a plant that is not properly rooted. But after a month you can already water the chrysanthemum with nitrogen fertilizers. They are diluted according to the instructions, which are necessarily given with the drug.

When the chrysanthemum takes root and grows a little, you need to cut off the tops of its branches. This is called “pinching” and is done so that the plant begins to send out lateral shoots. Thus, it will be formed lush bush. By autumn it will be covered in color and will look very beautiful. You can pinch flowers twice: in early autumn and early summer. Then they begin to prepare the chrysanthemum for flowering.

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How to stimulate chrysanthemum flowering

If a flower lover receives a gift from friends, it is most often a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care is aimed at prolonging flowering. Chrysanthemums are perennials, and they can bloom for several years in a row if they accumulate good energy reserves. A period of winter dormancy with sufficient light, water and fertilizer will increase the plant's ability to produce new buds.

A simple technique helps stimulate the plant to bloom long and abundantly. Here are the basic techniques:

• it is necessary to control the light regime of the chrysanthemum. Good vegetative growth implies natural conditions, that is, 9 – 10 hours of darkness. Draping the plant with black fabric creates the illusion of “night” in city apartments, where electricity is often turned on;
• Water occasionally and generously. The soil should be moist, but not soggy;
• before flowering, organize the light regime according to the standard 12 hours of darkness - 12 hours of light;
• provide the plant with a cool atmosphere during the period of bud release. Homemade chrysanthemums in pots need a temperature of 13 - 16 ° C to form a flower;
• do not forget to pinch the stems;
• remove all small buds and flower buds, leaving only the large ones, one bud on each stem in the center. This should be done when the buds are still small;
• When the flowers open as much as possible, choose the most optimal light position for the pot. The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period. This way the flowers will last longer;
• replanting the chrysanthemum in a larger pot will give more space to the roots. The plant will be able to accumulate more nutrients and moisture, which ensures intense flowering. The optimal pot size is 1.8 liters.

The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period.

In the spring, as soon as the chrysanthemum produces green shoots, you need to change the soil in the pot. To do this, carefully remove the plant, put clean soil in the pot, place the chrysanthemum in it and water it. During the same period, it is advisable to feed the chrysanthemum with fertilizer. It is better to use nitrogen agents before flowering, and nitrate ones at the time of flowering.

If you have complete information on how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, the plant will develop normally and delight the owner with luxurious flowers for several years in a row.

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How to replant chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, which are given to us in bouquets, are very easy to root. The desire to plant and grow this miracle on your windowsill or on your plot is commendable, but here it is important to follow correct agricultural techniques.

Instructions

1. If the chrysanthemum is already sitting in your pot, then replanting it in open ground will allow it to take on its natural size and shape. Preparations for replanting a chrysanthemum should begin with its flowering. After flowering, chrysanthemums should be cut off all shoots longer than 10 cm and leave only short petioles. The pot with the plant should be put in a cool room with a temperature of 2-4°C for the winter.
2. With the onset of spring, new shoots begin to grow and are transferred to a warm room. It is necessary to maintain alternating temperatures for chrysanthemums, otherwise it will not bloom. This time is optimal for transplanting the bush into fresh soil in a pot or flowerbed, as well as for rooting shoots. To root flowers from a bouquet, cuttings that have taken root in water should be cut off at the top, leaving 10 cm, and planted in a pot.
3. Young plants should be replanted every year in the spring, older ones every two years, and it is better to divide the bushes during replanting. The main thing is that fresh soil for the bush should not be acidic; otherwise, chrysanthemums are not particularly picky about soil. Add a little sand and humus to ordinary garden soil. During transplantation, the tops of young shoots are pinched, and lignified ones are cut off so that the bush is more branched and even.
4. Before watering, the lump of earth should be moistened and all dried branches and roots should be removed. Pour drainage into the bottom of the pot, insert the bush in the center and sprinkle with new soil on all sides. In order not to replant the chrysanthemum into a larger pot, divide the bush and plant part of the bush back, of course, adding fresh soil. Afterwards, water the bushes and keep the soil moist, as chrysanthemum loves water.

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Trimming

Chrysanthemums are pruned twice a year. This is done in spring and summer in order to form a beautiful crown of the bush. The first pruning is done in the spring after planting or replanting a flower. The growing point at the top of the shoots is removed from the plant.

• They immediately begin to grow actively side shoots.
• Before our eyes, the chrysanthemum turns into a lush, dense bush.
• About a month later, this procedure is repeated.
• If you are growing spherical variety chrysanthemums, then it is not necessary to pinch them.
• A lush dome-shaped bush is varietal feature of these types of chrysanthemum.

The chrysanthemum is pruned again in the fall, after flowering. First of all, dry, diseased and rotten shoots are cut off to keep the rest of the bush healthy. The remaining shoots are also shortened, since the plant will overwinter in spartan conditions - without watering, fertilizing and light. This will make it easier for him to survive during hibernation.

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Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemum propagates in 3 ways:

1. By cuttings.
2. Dividing the bush.
3. Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a rest period, a month before cutting, move the container with the chrysanthemum to a warm, illuminated place (from +10° to +12°).

When 4-6 leaves form on the shoots, you can begin cuttings:

1. It is better to take a high container, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.
2. Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1:2:0.5, taking into account that the top layer of sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1:1.
3. Place drainage at the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, and on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.
4. Cut the tops of the stems 10 cm high, making the lower cut under the internode. Remove the lower leaves.
5. Dip the cutting in a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45° with a gap of 5 cm between them.
6. Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).
7. Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily with a spray bottle.
8. Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Dividing the bush

A simpler and more reliable way to propagate chrysanthemums is to divide the bush during the period of intensive shoot growth.

From one bush of an overwintered plant you can get up to 6 divisions:

1. Water the bush before dividing.
2. Pour drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and turf land, sand and humus. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
3. Remove the chrysanthemum from old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that the root is preserved on each separated part.
4. Place the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with soil. Do not compact the soil.
5. After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally wash away the soil.
6. Place the container with the shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than +20°) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the divisions will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Determine the sowing time by the time of flowering:

1. Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus, 2:0.5:1, into the container.
3. Moisten the substrate and place the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle with a thin layer of light soil.
4. Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and put it in a bright room (t from +10° to +15°).
5. Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.
6. After 7-12 days, shoots will appear. Remove the cover.
7. After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, pick the plant with a gap of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before flowering, plant chrysanthemums in a permanent place.

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Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemum is a late-flowering perennial, characterized by high immunity to diseases and pests. However, she can also get sick.

In order not to put flowers at risk, it is necessary to carefully monitor their condition and take preventive measures in a timely manner. And if it was not possible to avoid the disease, then it is important to know which methods of control are most effective.

Fungal diseases of chrysanthemums

Fungal infections of chrysanthemums are most often caused by poor air circulation, high soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizers And high temperature.

Leaf spot, or septoria, of chrysanthemums

The disease manifests itself in the form of spots on the leaves, which initially have yellow, and then gradually become dark brown and black (and may increase in size). The lower leaves are infected first.

Prevention and treatment

1. The first step is to cut off and destroy the affected leaves.
2. For prevention purposes, it is necessary to regularly remove and destroy the remains of dead plants in the garden.
3. If the disease spreads, it is worth using fungicides.

Rust

The infection appears as pale areas on the surface of the leaves, as well as powdery orange spots on the undersides. Severely affected plants become weak and no longer flower properly.

Prevention and treatment

1. Urgent removal of affected leaves.
2. Thinning bushes to ensure better ventilation.
3. When watering, avoid getting moisture on the plants.
4. If the disease has seriously spread, you need to switch to the use of fungicides.

Wilting chrysanthemum leaves

The first symptoms of Fusarium wilt are yellowing and browning of leaves. Infected plants are stunted and often fail to flower. The fungus penetrates plants from the soil through the roots and blocks the flow of water into the chrysanthemum tissue.

Prevention and treatment

1. Removal and destruction of all infected plant parts.
2. Planting wilt-resistant varieties.
3. If the soil already contains Fusarium fungus, which causes wilting, then the soil pH should be increased to 6.5 - 7.0.

Powdery mildew

The leaves are covered with a whitish ash-gray powdery coating. Fungal spores love a humid atmosphere; these are favorable conditions for their growth and reproduction.

Prevention and treatment

1. Removing affected plant material.
2. Use of fungicides.

To combat fungal infections, copper oxychloride and Bordeaux mixture, Fundazol, and 1% colloidal sulfur are most often used.

Viral diseases of chrysanthemums

Of all the viral diseases, chrysanthemums are the most dangerous mosaic.

Plants infected with the virus have a stunted appearance and yellowed foliage. Infected chrysanthemums are stunted and produce small flowers.

Prevention

1. Removal and destruction of affected plants.
2. Timely weed control.

Pests of chrysanthemums

Leaf nematode

Nematodes are unsegmented roundworms that are barely visible to the naked eye. They overwinter in soil or in infected plant material.

Chrysanthemums affected by the nematode become covered with yellow-brown spots. The pest first damages the lower leaves and gradually spreads up the stem. The yellow-brown spots on the leaves eventually merge and cover the entire leaf, which dies, withers and falls off.

Control measures

1. Removal of contaminated plant material along with surrounding soil.
2. In spring, the spread of nematodes will be prevented by mulching.
3. When watering, avoid getting water on the leaves.
4. Foliar sprays containing insecticidal soap are quite effective.

Aphids and spider mites

These insidious insects harm many types of indoor and garden flowers.

Aphids feed on the sap of young plant tissues and infect the undersides of leaves, buds and flowers. Massive spread of the pest can cause the death of chrysanthemums.

Spider mites spread in hot and dry weather; they suck out the sap from plants, causing the chrysanthemum to dry out, the flowers become discolored, and the leaves fall off.

Control measures

1. Spider mites and aphids can be removed from the surface of plants with a strong stream of water during watering.
2. Effective use of insecticides and copper-soap solution (20 g copper sulfate and 200 g of green soap per 10 liters of water).

Now you know how to protect chrysanthemums from dangerous diseases and pests. Don’t forget to properly care for your plants – and they will certainly make your flower garden attractive.

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Queen of autumn - chrysanthemum (in myths and legends)

Many legends are dedicated to this wonderful flower. One of them says that an evil dragon decided to steal the Sun from people; but when he grabbed him, the dragon severely burned his paws. Out of anger, the dragon began to tear and trample the fireball. The sun sparks that fell on the Earth turned into white chrysanthemums...

Chrysanthemum flowers seem to connect the light cold of winter and the warm breath of summer. She is rightfully considered the queen of autumn. This unpretentious autumn flower truly of royal origin.

After all, once in the East luxurious feasts were held in his honor; the image of a chrysanthemum served as a symbol of nobility, happiness and was considered sacred. Many poems, myths and legends are dedicated to him. Today, the oriental beauty has no fewer fans than the recognized queens - roses and orchids.

History of a flower

How much ancient history this flower is not known for sure, but archaeologists have found images of chrysanthemums on fragments of marble and pottery, in the ornaments of ancient buildings, in the patterns of oriental porcelain and even on ancient coins.

• Some claim that the birthplace of the flower is Japan, others say China, and others say East Asia.
• In Japan, the homeland of the chrysanthemum, its image is included in the national emblem; it is a symbol of the sun.
• The Order of the Chrysanthemum is the highest award of this country.

The name of the flower, which comes from the Greek words “chrysos” - golden and “antemos” - flower (golden flower), is not accidental; the ancestors of the chrysanthemum were exclusively yellow.

In Japanese it is called "kiku" - the sun. On the day of "kiku" in the imperial palace, the courtiers admired flowers, drank special chrysanthemum wine, listened to music and wrote poetry.

The chrysanthemum was considered a symbol of high status. Only the emperor and members of his family had the right to wear clothes made of fabric with a chrysanthemum pattern. Violation of the law was punishable by death. In the 18th century, the plant was brought to France and it conquered all of Europe.

Chrysanthemum in the East

In Japan, colorful chrysanthemum festivals are held annually, where human-sized dolls are dressed in historical clothes made from chrysanthemum flowers. On this day, the Japanese drink sake with the petals of this wonderful flower - a symbol of happiness and longevity. Participants of the holiday pass cups of drink to each other, wishing them many years of happy life.

This flower is no less revered in China, which is also considered the birthplace of the chrysanthemum. Here he personifies loyalty. The legend says that in the hoary old days, when a cruel emperor ruled China, there was a rumor that a chrysanthemum grew on a certain island, from the juice of which an elixir of life could be prepared.

But only a person with a pure heart should pick a flower, otherwise the plant will lose its miraculous power. 300 boys and girls were sent to the island. It’s just unknown whether they found that plant or not. No one returned, the Mikado died, and the youth founded a new state on that island - Japan.

Legends

The 9th day of the 9th month is dedicated to the chrysanthemum in China and Japan, and the flower picked on this day is endowed magical power. In Vietnam, chrysanthemums represent spiritual purity and clarity of mind. In Italy, the chrysanthemum is a symbol of love; a symbol of deep silent sadness; symbol of death.

• In England, chrysanthemums are not so much flowers for bouquets, but funeral flowers. In Europe, white chrysanthemums are considered mourning flowers and a symbol of deep sadness. Wreaths of them are laid on graves in France.
• Perhaps that is why there is a sad legend about their origin. “The poor woman’s son died. She decorated the grave that was dear to her with items collected along the way. wildflowers before the cold weather sets in. Then she remembered the bouquet of artificial flowers that her mother bequeathed as a guarantee of happiness.
• She placed this bouquet on the grave, watered it with tears, prayed, and when she raised her head, she saw a miracle: the entire grave was covered with living chrysanthemums. Their bitter smell seemed to indicate that they were dedicated to sadness.”

Chrysanthemum in Europe

The chrysanthemum appeared in Europe in 1676. It was brought from Japan to England and made by the Dutchman Reede. However, the French believe that chrysanthemums first appeared in Marseille in 1789 and were brought by the French traveler Pierre Blankshire.

• However, the plants they brought were similar to daisies and did not make much of an impression.
• Only after 1829, when the French gardener Berne obtained beautiful varieties as a result of experiments with sowing chrysanthemum seeds, did the public become interested in them.
• Over time, this flower could be seen in almost every English garden - chrysanthemums tolerated English fogs perfectly and bloomed even before the onset of light frosts.
• During the celebration of Schiller's birthday in 1859, the bust of the writer was surrounded by thousands of chrysanthemums, the most diverse in color and shape that then existed.

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Superstitions and chrysanthemum.

Chrysanthemum balances the energy of logic and intuition, reason, will and feelings. Fills you with peace and self-confidence.

Protects against unnecessary hesitation and doubt. Develops confidence and missing qualities of the sex: for men - fortitude, for women - tenderness and charm. Brings order to thoughts and emotions. Helps you feel like a real man or a real woman and change sexual orientation. Develops tolerance and friendliness. For public places. For active, active, creative individuals. Helps strong personalities get along with each other.

Protects against unwanted changes in well-being. Brings balance to nervous system, kidneys, cardiovascular system.

The ancient Chinese claimed that chrysanthemum has the miraculous property of prolonging human life. According to ancient legend, a certain Taoist monk lived about 700 years, and only because he drank dew from chrysanthemum flowers in the morning. Maybe if we follow his example, we too will be able to maintain our youth?

The petals of chrysanthemum flowers are very different: white, pink, golden yellow. They have one thing in common - they are all rich in minerals, so necessary for the normal functioning of the human body. Please note that the flowers are odorless healing properties do not possess.

Must be added to traditional green tea fragrant petals of chrysanthemum flowers. It is considered to be extremely useful for any infectious disease. Ancient Chinese doctors recommended this tea in case of high fever. They assured that it improves vision, removes toxins from the body, and is good for the liver.

Overheating, colds, dizziness, unstable blood pressure - all these diseases, according to them, can be easily cured with the help of chrysanthemum flower petals. You can believe this, but you can treat it with a fair amount of skepticism. However, even in our time, traditional healers for kidney failure advise eating ice cream, in which several fresh chrysanthemum petals are placed.

Luxurious inflorescences in autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with their variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from its relatives in open ground in the compact shape of a spherical bush with a height of 20–40 cm. Breeders have developed several hybrids and varieties adapted to the lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

“Home” chrysanthemums do not require care, grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life it is customary to say “flowers,” although the family Asteraceae has a basket-like inflorescence. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in the pot; caring for it at home will then be much simpler. A well-developed plant intended for indoors will continue to bloom on the windowsill. At favorable conditions buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root suckers, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.

Street chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in a container, used for container gardening, patio decoration, or entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut off, and containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If an outdoor chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry out. These plants need fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Chrysanthemum varieties for growing in pots

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. The inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as those of open ground plants. Varieties are often grouped according to their origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum indica

In nature this is relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are serrated, green-gray in color. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on windowsills and balconies.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species that had white and pink inflorescences. Breeders, using chemicals that affect growth, have obtained compact forms with a height of 20–25 cm. Today there are large number various shapes and varieties that feel good in the room are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive in the cold season.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

• "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with a large number of large yellow inflorescences.
• “Old Gold” - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
• "Morifolium" is a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are rich green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Pinpoint glands are noticeable on the upper side of the leaf blade. The inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums are simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Caring for chrysanthemums at home

They buy a plant at a flower shop or receive it as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for chrysanthemums in a room differs from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided when placing the pot on a plastic or window sill is suitable. wooden windows facing west and east. Exposure to rays at midday can cause leaf burns; in this situation, it is recommended to shade the plant. The young bush blooms with 6–8 hours of daylight in October or November (depending on the region).

A comfortable temperature for indoor chrysanthemums is 18–23°C. The variety, which is more demanding in terms of maintenance conditions, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. Can be left in front open window, chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and fertilizing

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoors prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to rotting of the roots and the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

1. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out.
2. In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
3. Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
4. In hot weather, spray water near indoor plants to reduce air temperature.
5. Use settled water for irrigation and spraying. If it is hard, then it accumulates on the soil surface. white coating.
6. Avoid getting drops on the flowers.

Chrysanthemums that bloom profusely require more frequent fertilization. Liquid fertilizing is carried out once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of microelements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the potted plant about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If the growth of shoots is not subsequently regulated, several long stems will appear, which reduces the decorative effect.

• Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
• Large-flowered hybrids can be formed into a tree by shortening the main shoot and cutting off the lower branches.
• Pinching inflorescences that are beginning to fade helps increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is necessary if flowering is delayed. Selectively pinching the tops of flower stalks will ensure the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.

Transplanting a plant

Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplantation, young shoots are covered with a plastic glass, adult plants - with a plastic bag. At first, provide diffused lighting and do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After flowering ends, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some gardeners recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After this, water the soil and put the pot in a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leaving the chrysanthemum in its original form on the window sill in the room. Third option: to stimulate shoot growth and formation compact bush pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum will sprout new shoots and bloom in the same season.

Propagation of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums “acquire” root suckers (babies). Young plants can be grown from these additional shoots. Root shoots are carefully separated from mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to maintain the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic glass. In the autumn of the same year, the young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

1. Young shoots are cut from an adult plant.
2. Fill transparent plastic container remove cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
3. The cuttings are planted and covered with a container lid.
4. After the roots form and new leaves appear, the young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seeds. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually when seed propagation chrysanthemums do not retain varietal characteristics.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, or hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is associated with poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the lack of buds and flowers are lack or excess lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. If in the room artificial lighting morning and evening, then biorhythms get lost. Another reason is related to the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with excess fertilizing and lack of pruning.

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

The plant is susceptible to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with fungicides for indoor plants. Chrysanthemums are harmed by aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, and springtails. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. Window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, change the top layer of soil in the pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended to be careful when choosing a substrate. Typically, pathogens and plant pests are contained in soil brought from the garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room and to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy and will delight you with flowering for a long time.

08.09.2017 8 143

Diseases of chrysanthemums and their treatment different methods

For many gardeners, chrysanthemum diseases and their treatment manifest themselves in a whole stream of problems due to incorrect identification of the initial signs, which results in even greater damage to the flowers. Septoria leaves, brown aphids, white bloom, powdery mildew, lower leaves wither and dry, turn yellow - all these signs may indicate the presence of ailments that must be removed...

Treatment of fungal and viral diseases

Chrysanthemums have relatively strong immunity, so timely prevention will help avoid problems. But, if the flower does get sick, it is useful to know what chrysanthemum diseases are and their treatment.

The most common fungal infections of chrysanthemums are caused by dense plantings, and therefore poor ventilation, also heat, high acidity of the soil, and excess nitrogen content in the soil. With fungi of different origins Chrysanthemums are effectively treated with fungicides - Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, colloidal sulfur,.

Why do the lower leaves of chrysanthemums dry out? Often this is a sign of septoria, which makes itself felt by the appearance of yellow spots, as a rule, precisely on the lower leaves of chrysanthemums, closest to the surface of the earth - the spots darken, acquire a brown tint, then turn black, spreading across the surface, as if healthy greenery is burning.

Septoria leaf blight of chrysanthemum - pictured

What to do:

1. Darkened vegetation is torn down and burned
2. Infected specimens are sprayed with fungicides
3. For prevention in flower beds and in the area in general, wilted vegetation should be removed in a timely manner.

Rust

Pale spots appear on the outside of chrysanthemum leaves, and on the inside they are powdery orange; rust reduces the intensity of flowering, since it takes a lot of effort to fight the infection.

What to do:

Fusarium wilt

If the leaves of a chrysanthemum turn yellow, this may be the first sign of Fusarium wilt, a disease caused by the Fusarium fungus. A sick flower experiences an acute lack of moisture, as the fungus attacks the roots and prevents the flow of water necessary for the growth of the chrysanthemum. In affected specimens, development slows down, they are noticeably stunted in growth, and often it never reaches flowering.

Fusarium wilt of chrysanthemum - pictured

What to do in such cases:

1. Infected bushes are completely removed
2. Select varieties with increased resistance to fusarium
3. The soil should be slightly acidic or neutral, with a pH level of 6.5 - 7.0

Powdery mildew

A sign of this fungal disease is a dirty white powdery coating on chrysanthemums; it often occurs in a humid environment, so it spreads widely in damp, rainy weather.

How to help the plant:

1. Infected parts are removed
2. Bushes are carefully treated with fungicides

Mosaic

In total, at least two dozen viral infections are known to which the autumn beauty chrysanthemum is susceptible - these are aspermia, dwarfism, white spotting of flowers, rosette and others. One of the most dangerous viruses for chrysanthemums is mosaic; specimens affected by it lag behind in development, grow poorly, their foliage turns yellow, and their flowers become smaller.

What to do:

1. Sick bushes are completely destroyed
2. The area is regularly cleared of weeds

Pests and their control

Diseases of chrysanthemums and their treatment involve the destruction of not only infectious agents, but also pests - aphids, spider mites, meadow bugs, slobbering pennies, tobacco thrips, and leaf nematodes are fought mainly with the help of insecticides.

Leaf nematode

Nematodes are tiny worms that attack not only chrysanthemums, but also many other flowers and shrubs; they often overwinter in beds and in the remains of vegetation, so they must be removed in the fall.

On the leaves of the chrysanthemum that the nematode has reached, yellow-brown spots appear, which gradually occupy the entire leaf, and it dies, first the foliage at the bottom of the stem dies, then the pest spreads higher and higher along the trunk. If measures are not taken, the entire bush dies.

What to do:

1. They destroy not only the diseased specimen, including the roots, but also the area of ​​soil surrounding it
2. In spring, the ground around the flowers is mulched - this prevents the appearance of nematodes
3. When watering, water should not fall on the foliage; 4. At the initial stage, you can use a foliar spray, which contains an organic insecticide, including potassium salts of fatty acids and vegetable oils

Greenhouse aphids and brown aphids settle on chrysanthemums. First, green or pink color, settles on the underside of leaves, on buds and flowers, and feeds on their cell sap. Brown aphids live in inflorescences, without damaging them, but polluting them with their waste products.

What to do:

1. The bushes are sprayed with any of the insecticides - Actellik, Bi-58 new, Karate
2. Also prepare a solution of copper sulfate (20 g) and liquid soap (200 g) per 10 liters of water

Other pests are also controlled with insecticides, but the symptoms of insect damage vary:

• The slobbering pennix, or leafhopper, absorbs the juice of a chrysanthemum flower, covering the plant with foam.
• meadow or field bug deforms leaves, chrysanthemum buds and flowers, interfering with plant flowering
• Spider mites weave webs on the undersides of chrysanthemum leaves, which turn yellow and wither. Hot weather contributes to the spread of the pest. Spider mites easily adapt to drugs, so you need to use different pesticides in turn; they are also used traditional methods– spraying with infusion of henbane, datura, yarrow, garlic, onion herbs

Non-communicable diseases

Errors in chrysanthemum growing technology can lead to diseases - the condition of the soil, fertilizing and watering regimes affect the development of autumn flowers, violation of the care conditions weakens them, and this is a direct path to infection with various infections.

Flower growers are familiar with the concept of “root suffocation”; the root system literally suffocates from excess moisture and lack of air in the soil, if it is clayey, not well drained and at the same time flooded with rain. A plant that is forced to exist in such conditions turns yellow, its roots rot, and eventually it dies.

The inability to absorb excess moisture leads to a crack appearing on the stem under the bud, and the future chrysanthemum flower breaks off or becomes deformed. On the other hand, a lack of moisture in the soil also depresses chrysanthemum bushes, the foliage becomes lethargic, and disease resistance decreases. Low temperatures environment lead to yellowing or redness of the leaf along the veins.

Unbalanced feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers also weaken the plant. For example, you cannot fertilize flowers with fresh manure. This leads to burns of the roots and weakens them, making them susceptible to infection.

Chrysanthemum diseases and their treatment will not cause any special problems for flower growers if you follow the rules of care and are attentive to your flowers.

• If the temperature is higher, the buds may dry out or the leaves may turn yellow.
• When the plant finishes flowering, it can be placed in a cold place with a temperature of +3 for the winter. And in March you need to transplant it into a new substrate.
• Do not spare the plant and trim the greens, then your plant will not be elongated, but will bush.
• The soil should preferably be loose and fertile. Garden soil or humus is good for this.
• As soon as the cuttings have taken root, they should be fed immediately. Do not forget to feed adult plants, especially during rapid growth and flowering.
• The plant should not be overdried; there should be moderate watering, which will not dry out the roots of the plant.
• If your chrysanthemum has produced a lot of inflorescences, and you can’t wait for it to bloom faster, then you need to cut off some of the ovaries, then other flowers will be much larger in size.

What to pay attention to when purchasing in a store

Indoor chrysanthemum leaves dry

Lady Margona Profi (535), closed 8 months ago

A week ago I bought 7 flowers for home for comfort. Of these, 1 rose and 1 chrysanthemum. After a couple of days, their leaves began to dry out and fall off. Now the rose stands without leaves, only stems and flowers. The chrysanthemum has few leaves left. All other flowers (diefenbachia, asparagus, ficus, etc.) feel great. But what about the rose and chrysanthemum? It's quite hot in the apartment, maybe that's the reason? How can I help them?

Roller. Oracle (74763) 1 year ago

The chrysanthemums in the garden have long since faded. autumn however.

screw Pro (503) 1 year ago

Doesn't happen indoor roses and chrysanthemums remember. No matter what they tell you in the store, it doesn’t happen. Urgently take them to the street or loggia. They need changes in outdoor temperatures, and after purchase they need to be replanted in universal soil. You can water it with rootstock when replanting.

Inna Samoilova(Voronkova) Artificial Intelligence (113285) 1 year ago

They could have been struck by a mite, they found the wrong location, the chrysanthemum loves coolness, the potted rose does not tolerate heat and coolness, you need to find a place with a moderate temperature of 18-20 degrees. watering only warm water. and no spraying, the leaves have already fallen off.

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Please advise how to save a homemade chrysanthemum - I planted it two months ago in universal soil, for a month it grew and delighted me with new leaves, and then suddenly, for no apparent reason, the lower leaves began to turn yellow and dry out, and so on. I examined it - there were no visible pests. Now she is all drooping and yellow. What's wrong with her?

For chrysanthemums in summer it is very difficult to ensure an optimal growing regime, since they need coolness (too much warm room chrysanthemums do not survive). Violation optimal mode leads to weakening of chrysanthemums and damage by diseases and pests (especially with excess heat, chrysanthemums are bothered by mites, which are not easy to see due to their microscopic size - the mite sucks the juice from the leaves, they turn yellow and wither). Chrysanthemum leaves also turn yellow and droop when overwatered - as a result of root rot. In this case, remove the chrysanthemum from the pot and cut off all the rotten roots, replant it in a small pot in fresh, damp soil (preferably in a homemade substrate), gently squeeze the soil and do not water it for several days. Trim the chrysanthemum shoots and build a mini-greenhouse in the pot. Ventilate it every day and spray the remaining shoots with Epin solution until new leaves appear.

All about chrysanthemum on the Gardenia website. ru

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Why do Chrysanthemum leaves turn yellow?

Examine the leaves. If there are no signs of pests on them, then it is possible to water less often and the leaves may turn yellow due to cool temperatures.)

I also have a chrysanthemum in a pot at home. The leaves turned yellow and fell off due to the pest invasion.

Change the soil and water less often

Septoria is a fungal disease to which chrysanthemums are susceptible quite often. Dark colors appear on the leaves brown spots with a yellowish border. Gradually they increase and cover the entire leaf, as a result of which the leaves fall off.

To grow chrysanthemums, the soil requires a high content of nitrogen (70%) and potassium (24%) and a low content of phosphorus (6%). These plants have a high selective ability to fertilize and can tolerate high salt content in the soil, i.e., grow on almost any variety of soil. However, in order to obtain highly productive bushes with good decorative qualities, it is necessary to take into account the specific cultural requirements for content nutrients in the substrate, their ratio, forms and timing of fertilizer application. Such records are kept by growth phases and in accordance with biological features varieties. This helps to increase decorativeness, increase the duration of flowering and increase the number of inflorescences.

For example, the application of fertilizers to the preceding generative stages of plant development affects the formation of flower buds, the quality and quantity of formed flowers and inflorescences. Lack of nitrogen during this period retards growth and reduces the number of inflorescences; lack of phosphorus has a greater effect on the formation and development of generative organs and a decrease in the number of inflorescences and their doubleness; The lack of potassium significantly delays the beginning of the formation of generative organs and greatly inhibits their development.

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Chrysanthemum dries out, what should I do?

All sizes and colors. There are also options with an automatic watering system. Choose!

We gave a chrysanthemum as a gift, we replanted it, after a week it started to dry out a little, we put it in a cooler place, everything was fine, almost a month has passed and now the leaves are turning yellow and drying up and the flower is drying up, but small flowers which have not yet blossomed just fall off, what to do, how to save it?

No way, the chrysanthemum that is sold in pots as a gift is not suitable for further cultivation after flowering, and is usually thrown out. They also gave me one like this, and everything dried out for me too, I suffered with it for a year, and in the end there was only greenery, no flowers in one word. I threw it away and that's it.

There's nothing you can do about it unless you spray them with chemicals.

Artificial respiration, electric shock (you can put it in a socket), and other resuscitation actions, CALL AMBULANCE!

Indeed, kiosks often sell chrysanthemums after forcing. That is, they all went into the inflorescence. but the rhizome was not formed. But if it was decent, then check the back of the sheet. There may be a spider mite there, you can see it through a magnifying glass. It sucks the juice from the cells, and so the plant dries out. Then you need to spray with any acoricide (anti-tick medications) (Aktelik). Since the plant was better off in the cool, it means that some pest is eating it, because cool is harmful to them.

I also had dryness from the beginning. BUT a month later branches came out of the ground and it bloomed. and now it's full of buds.

Chrysanthemums love moist soil; they need to be watered twice a day, morning and evening. They need to be sprayed from the underside of the leaf, it has drinking pores there, in nature it is almost a swamp plant and drinks water with its leaves all day long. The homemade chrysanthemum should be carried into the shower after the household members have taken it, it will drink there wet and warm air. But in general, she is beautiful, you need to talk to her and praise her.

GREEN ONIONS at home WITHOUT soil and fertilizers! 2 harvests per month!

A MIRACLE set of tools for indoor plants! A wonderful gift for any amateur gardener!

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Indoor chrysanthemum

Indoor chrysanthemum will decorate any home. It is especially pleasing with its abundant flowering, which depends on proper care and variety. There are more than 150 species.

It spread from China, Japan, Korea and other Mediterranean countries. Chrysanthemums are grown as indoor chrysanthemums Small-flowered And Large-flowered forms Chinese and bush.

Growing and caring for indoor chrysanthemum

Indoor chrysanthemums are preferred sunny places in the house, but do not like direct sunlight. For cultivation, ordinary garden soil is suitable, into which you can add sand or humus. The main thing is not to use acidic soils. For normal growth and abundant flowering, it is necessary to maintain an air temperature of about 10-15 degrees. At elevated air temperatures, flowering will be less abundant and shorter. Require abundant watering, but it is important to avoid waterlogging the soil. When the soil dries out, they will begin to wither and their leaves will fall off. Periodically, the flower needs to be sprayed with water.

Indoor chrysanthemums are replanted every 2 years, with the exception of young plants, which are replanted every year. To enhance branching and crown formation, systematically prune and pinch. After flowering, you need to prune, leaving cuttings approximately 10-15 cm in height. After pruning, the pot with the plant should be taken to a cool, dark place (basement), periodically watering the plant until spring. Then the plant can be planted in open ground, if possible. Some people buy flowers in pots and throw them away after they bloom. In fact, a plant can be given a second and subsequent lives by replanting it.

Reproduction

Indoor chrysanthemums can be propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush or seeds. Most often propagated by dividing the bush or cuttings. When cuttings, several cuttings are planted in one pot. The division of the bush is carried out during the period of intensive growth of young shoots. If you transplant the young shoots into separate pots in time, the flowers will bloom in the same year.

Indoor chrysanthemum Growing and care

Chrysanthemum is an indoor plant that blooms at any time of the year. The variety of shapes and shades of flowers has made the chrysanthemum popular among florists and simply lovers of decorative indoor plants. Read our article about the features of growing and caring for this representative of the flora.

A little about chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum belongs to the Asteraceae family. The flowers can be simple or double, the palette of shades ranges from white and soft pink to red, purple and even poisonous yellow. The plant, grown indoors in bowls, reaches 30 centimeters in height.

How to properly care for chrysanthemums

Transfer

Choose a large bowl for chrysanthemums; the root system grows quite quickly.

Don't forget to change the ground. Desirable soil composition: 20% sand, mixed with turf and humus soil. For favorable flowering, it is recommended to add bird droppings to the resulting soil. Special attention Pay attention to the acidity of the soil - chrysanthemums do not tolerate acidic soil well.

Young plants are replanted annually, older ones after a couple of years.

Top dressing

Chrysanthemums need fertilizing for long and abundant flowering. To do this, you can purchase a special solution or powder at a flower shop. Don’t forget to feed the chrysanthemum a couple of weeks after replacing the soil or replanting.

Watering

It is recommended to water chrysanthemums every 3-5 days during growth and flowering. And spray regularly - in the morning or evening. Spraying is carried out more for hygienic purposes, so that dust does not accumulate on the leaves and inflorescences.

Creating comfortable conditions

Chrysanthemum is relatively unpretentious flower. The plant feels comfortable on the balcony - it loves coolness and fresh air. If the plant will be in the room, it is best to place it on the window. At the same time, be sure to ventilate the room. The optimal temperature for chrysanthemums is 15-20 degrees.
The flower does not tolerate heat well. During promotion temperature regime The chrysanthemum blooms worse and begins to fade. Direct sunlight should be shaded, but not isolated; chrysanthemums also need light. In the absence of light, the buds will not open.

If you want to get beautiful large chrysanthemum inflorescences, form a plant. This is done this way: the first bud is cut off. Then the side shoots will be more magnificent.

When the plant is just growing, tie the shoots to the wings in advance.

Diseases dangerous for chrysanthemum

1. Powdery mildew- manifests itself as the formation of a white powdery coating on the leaves and peduncles. The cause of the disease is excessive air humidity. As a control method, spraying chrysanthemums with a fungicide is used. To prevent disease - pollination with sulfur 3-4 times during the summer.

2. Gray rot - manifests itself as the formation of a characteristic ash-gray fluffy coating on the infected parts of the plant. Brown spots appear or stems and leaf edges turn brown. Cause of the disease - high humidity air. Good lighting, ventilating the room and thinning the plant will prevent the occurrence of this disease. Treatment: spray with topsin-M solution and foundationazole. After 10-12 days, re-treat.

3. Septoria- fungal disease. It appears mainly on the leaves of chrysanthemums in the form of dark brown spots with a yellow border. The spots increase, gradually covering the entire leaf, then the leaf falls off. You can get rid of this disease using a fungicide (foundazole), while removing all infected leaves from the plant, eliminating spraying, reducing watering and organizing regular ventilation of the room. This disease is caused by excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers.

4. Spider mite can be recognized by the pale yellow color of the leaves. Damaged leaves begin to fall off, their surface becomes covered with solid whitish spots. The cause of the disease is dry air. Spraying with fufan, actellik, fitoverm or derris will rid the chrysanthemum of spider mites.

5. Trips lays large colonies with reverse side sheet, and small light dots appear on the front. As a result, the upper side of the leaf acquires a brownish-gray tint with a shine. The cause of the disease is high temperature and low humidity. As treatment, spraying with Actellik, Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Decis is used, if necessary, repeatedly.

6. Aphids Most often, buds, shoot tips, and the underside of leaves are damaged. Damaged areas of the chrysanthemum become discolored, turn yellow, then curl and fall off. Unfortunately, aphids are capable of attacking chrysanthemums all year round. The most common means for removing aphids are fitoverm, actellik, derris, inta-vir, decis. Re-process as necessary.

Irina ASTASHOVA

Chrysanthemum in a pot, home care, propagation, pruning and replanting

Chrysanthemums are mainly grown in pots. low-growing varieties:

• Features of caring for chrysanthemums in a pot ↓
• 1. Temperature ↓
• 2. Lighting ↓
• 3. Soil ↓
• 5. Watering ↓
• 6. Humidity ↓
• 7. Feeding ↓
• 8. Planting chrysanthemums in a pot ↓
• 10. Transplant ↓
• How to trim a chrysanthemum ↓
• 1. Formation of a bush ↓
• 2. Preparation for the rest period ↓
• Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot ↓
• 1. Cuttings ↓
• 2. Dividing the bush ↓
• 3. Propagation by seeds ↓
• Disease and pest control ↓
• Frequently asked questions and answers ↓

Chrysanthemum chinensis– hybrid perennial. The height of low-growing varieties is up to 70 cm. Oval leaves with a bright aroma. The flowers are large-toothed, simple and double, of various colors.

Chrysanthemum indica– ideal for growing indoors. Height - up to 50 cm. Special popular varieties: Snow Elf, Alt Gold, Aurora, Helen.

Korean chrysanthemum is good for growing in a pot. The flowers are spherical and come in a variety of bright colors. The most common varieties: Orange Jam, Navare, Stella.

Indian Chinese Korean

Features of caring for chrysanthemums in a pot

Despite the fact that chrysanthemum is an unpretentious plant, growing it at home has some peculiarities. By adhering to them, you can grow a strong plant that blooms for a long time.

1. Temperature

Chrysanthemum prefers fresh air and relative coolness. The temperature considered comfortable for them is from +10° to +15°, the maximum is +18°. This is the optimal temperature at which the flower produces many buds and blooms for a long time.

The plant will tolerate hot summers well if placed in a shaded and ventilated place. In winter, the suitable temperature for chrysanthemums is +2° to +5°.

2. Lighting

Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant and blooms when the day decreases to 8-10 hours. Chrysanthemum is a light-loving flower, but does not tolerate direct sunlight.

The most suitable place for chrysanthemums is windows on the east or west side of the room. On windows facing north, the chrysanthemum may not bloom. On the south side the plant must be shaded.

3. Soil

The soil for chrysanthemums should be loose and nutritious, but not acidic. To prepare the soil mixture you will need: garden and turf soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 4:4:1:1.

For intense coloring of flowers, you can add chicken manure to the soil mixture.

5. Watering

Chrysanthemum needs good watering. The flower must be watered regularly every 3-5 days. At the slightest drying out of the soil, flowers and buds wither, and if there is excess moisture, the plant may die. Therefore, chrysanthemums should be watered as soon as the top layer of soil becomes dry.

It is advisable to water with filtered or rain water. Tap water It is advisable to leave it for 1-2 days. Water that is too hard can be boiled and the plants can be watered with cooled water.

6. Humidity

Chrysanthemum needs high humidity; after all, initially it garden plant. Chrysanthemum care includes regular spraying with water. It is advisable to spray the plant in the morning.

It is better to use purified water for spraying, since tap water can leave residue on the leaves. You can humidify the air by placing a container of water next to the flowers or using air humidifiers. In autumn and winter, spraying is stopped.

7. Feeding

Chrysanthemums must be fertilized regularly in order for them to develop properly and bloom luxuriantly.

Once every 2 weeks the plant must be fed:

During the growth period (spring-summer), when the plant gains mass, feed it with fertilizer with a large amount of nitrogen.

When the chrysanthemum is preparing to bloom and form buds, it needs potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

The first feeding should be carried out 2-3 weeks after transplantation. If there is enough humus in the soil, then carry out the first fertilizing in a month and a half.

8. Planting chrysanthemums in a pot

Depending on the chrysanthemum variety and the number of cuttings, choose a container for the plant:

For 1 plant– container with a diameter of 9 cm.

For 3 plants– 11 cm.

For 5 plants– 13 cm.

• Place a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the container for drainage.
• Fill the container 2/3 full with soil mixture.
• A seedling is placed in the mixture and positioned so that the roots are on the surface. Carefully add compost. After planting, do not compact the soil to avoid damaging the roots.
• Moisten the soil with a spray bottle and ensure that the soil is always moist.
• Place the container in a bright place, temperature up to +10°.

In order for the chrysanthemum to actively develop, you can use biostimulants for growth.

10. Transplant

Chrysanthemums should be replanted in the same way as most indoor plants. Young plants, up to 5 years old - replant every year, adults - once every 2 years.

After a period of rest, when the first shoots appear, the chrysanthemum should be replanted:

Take the container for transplanting 2 - 3 cm wider than the previous one.

Pour drainage - a layer of expanded clay - onto the bottom of the container, and soil mixture on top (as described above).

Carefully remove the chrysanthemum from the old pot and move it to a new container.

Fill the gaps with soil and compact lightly.

To prevent water from leaking out of the pot when watering, do not fill the soil to the very edge of the container.

Water the plant thoroughly.

How to trim a chrysanthemum

1. Formation of a bush

Pruning involves removing the upper part of the stem, due to which the growth of the plant slows down, the root system develops, and side shoots appear:

Start pruning 10-15 days after planting.

From a stem 12-15 cm long, cut off the upper part of the plant with 3-4 leaves with a sharp knife or pruning shears.

After pruning, water the plant with nitrogen fertilizer.

2-3 weeks after pruning, shoots form in the leaf axils.

Do not prune during transplantation.

2. Preparing for the rest period

After flowering, chrysanthemums must be pruned. Step back 5-10 cm from the soil surface and use pruning shears to cut off the stems of the plant.

If you notice that the plant is damaged by aphids, cut off the diseased stems. Healthy plants cannot be pruned after sick ones with the same tool.

After pruning, the plants are put into a cool (no more than +5°) dark room until spring. Pruning is necessary. The plant will rest and gain strength for better growth and flowering. During rest, the plant should be watered occasionally.

You can postpone the rest period if the bush is healthy and strong enough:

Trim the plant and transplant it into a larger container. Completely replace the old substrate with a new one.

Place the chrysanthemum in a bright, warm place, temperature from +18° to +20°.

Water the flower 2-3 times a week.

Feed with nitrogenous fertilizer once every 2 weeks.

After the first buds appear, feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

With proper care, the chrysanthemum will bloom in 2-2.5 months. But after flowering it must be sent to rest.

Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemum propagates in 3 ways:

By cuttings.

Dividing the bush.

Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a rest period, a month before cutting, move the container with the chrysanthemum to a warm, illuminated place (from +10° to +12°).

When 4-6 leaves form on the shoots, you can begin cuttings:

It is better to take a high container, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.

Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1:2:0.5, taking into account that the top layer of sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1:1.

Place drainage at the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, and on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.

Cut the tops of the stems 10 cm high, making the lower cut under the internode. Remove the lower leaves.

Dip the cutting in a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45° with a gap of 5 cm between them.

Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).

Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily with a spray bottle.

Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Dividing the bush

A simpler and more reliable way to propagate chrysanthemums is to divide the bush during the period of intensive shoot growth.

From one bush of an overwintered plant you can get up to 6 divisions:

Water the bush before dividing.

Pour drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and turf soil, sand and humus into a new pot. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.

Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that each separated part retains the root.

Place the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with soil. Do not compact the soil.

After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally wash away the soil.

Place the container with the shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than +20°) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the divisions will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Determine the sowing time by the time of flowering:

Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus, 2:0.5:1, into the container.

Moisten the substrate and place the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle with a thin layer of light soil.

Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and put it in a bright room (t from +10° to +15°).

Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.

After 7-12 days, shoots will appear. Remove the cover.

After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, pick the plant with a gap of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before flowering, plant chrysanthemums in a permanent place.

Disease and pest control

Aphids damage plant shoots and leaves on the underside, which turn yellow and fall off. Spray with Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Actellik. In case of severe damage, repeat spraying.

Red spider mite damages leaves, which turn pale yellow and fall off. The cause of the disease may be dry air. Spray with insecticides.

Septoria– yellow and then brown spots appear on the leaves. Remove diseased leaves and treat with fungicide. Do not spray the plant for several weeks, reduce watering. The cause of the disease is excess nitrogen fertilizer.

Powdery mildew Covers the stems and leaves with a white coating. The cause of the disease is high humidity. Treat the plant with a fungicide.

Gray rot– brown spots appear on the plant, which are then covered with a gray coating. The cause of the disease is high humidity. Treat the plant with Fundazol. After a few days, repeat the treatment.

It must be remembered that chemicals unsafe. If possible, use biological products for indoor treatment.

When using pesticides, take all precautions and ventilate the rooms thoroughly.

Frequently asked questions and answers

Question. Why doesn't chrysanthemum bloom?

Answer. Chrysanthemums must bloom in the fall. If this does not happen, it means that her care has been disrupted. Reasons for the lack of flowering: the timing of plant pruning is violated, the chrysanthemum does not have enough light, poor soil or lack of fertilizers.

Question. Do I need to pinch chrysanthemums?

Answer. Yes, it needs to be formed. In order not to get a long single trunk, when the shoots are 10-15 cm, you need to pinch them. During the growing season - 2-3 times. The last pinching should be done 2 weeks before the start of flowering, somewhere in mid-August. To form a beautiful spherical bush, you need to trim off all overgrown shoots.

Question. Why does chrysanthemum dry out?

Answer. Chrysanthemum leaves dry out for several reasons. Fever plant maintenance, pests, poor soil and frequent watering. If the plant is cared for proper care, all fertilizing has been carried out, and no pests are found upon careful inspection, then the chrysanthemum must be carefully dug up. Inspect the roots; if they begin to rot, then all rotten roots must be removed. Transplant the flower into another pot with fresh but moist soil. Do not water the plant for several days.

Question. Where to store chrysanthemums in winter?

Answer. In a cool room - on the veranda, insulated balcony. If this is not possible, then you can store it on a windowsill, trimming the plant to a minimum, removing all dry branches and leaves. Water the same as during the growing season. You can place the flower in the basement for the winter. Trim the bush, remove all dried and rotten twigs and leaves. 2 days before wintering, water the soil. When placed in the basement, the soil should be slightly damp, but not soggy.

Surely you know how chrysanthemums bloom. These incredibly beautiful, delicate and colorful flowers delight the eyes of gardeners and summer residents. Chrysanthemums can be red, purple, yellow, pink, white. But what if you don’t have a plot of land where you can grow this miracle? There is no need to despair, chrysanthemum can be grown in a pot, right on your windowsill.

Garden chrysanthemum in a pot

Many novice gardeners are surprised whether it is possible to grow garden chrysanthemum in a pot? After all, a real chrysanthemum is quite large in size, its stem reaches more than a meter in length. The fact is that for growing chrysanthemums, only dwarf varieties are chosen, which do not grow, but are formed by shrubs. Along with this, such chrysanthemums are treated with retardants. These are means that retard the growth of a plant in length. Thanks to this treatment, the chrysanthemum grows in width, that is, it forms a lush, luxurious bush. In addition, do not be afraid to trim the chrysanthemum stem before the buds appear. This is done in order to suppress the growth of a tall stem and form a bush from the plant. But before that, you need to understand in detail how to grow a chrysanthemum from scratch in a pot.

Planting chrysanthemums

1. Planting and replanting chrysanthemum early spring when the plant is still dormant. To plant a chrysanthemum, you can take a sprout from the garden, that is, plant a very ordinary chrysanthemum in a pot. You can replant the plant that you removed for wintering into a new pot. If you want to grow chrysanthemum from seeds, you will need to first grow the seedlings in greenhouse conditions.
2. Chrysanthemum reproduces well by cuttings and dividing the bush. The last method is the most acceptable, since if you have your own roots, the chrysanthemum almost always takes root.
3. To grow chrysanthemums, you need to take nutritious soil with sufficient breathability. You need to put drainage at the bottom of the pot - expanded clay pebbles or brick shards. Four parts of garden soil should be mixed with one part of chicken or cow manure, one part of sand and four parts of turf soil. This substrate is placed in a pot and the chrysanthemum is planted so that its roots are completely in the soil.
4. If you are replanting an adult chrysanthemum, please note that the new pot should be large in size. In the first 3-4 years, the chrysanthemum should be replanted every year, after which replanting may be less frequent.
5. As soon as you have “settled” the plant in a new place, it should be placed in the open air - a balcony, loggia, window sill with outside windows. But only if the temperature outside has already stabilized above zero.

Despite the fact that a chrysanthemum in a pot is still the same garden flower, caring for it is a little different from the classic one.

1. Watering. Chrysanthemum loves water and the plant needs to be watered 2-3 times a week, depending on the amount and intensity of sunlight. Chrysanthemum does not tolerate drying out and immediately dies from it. It is best to water the flower when the top of the soil dries out. In winter, the intensity of watering is significantly reduced. If you store chrysanthemum at low temperatures, watering the plant once a month is enough. Excessive watering of chrysanthemums at any time of the year can lead to rotting of the roots. In the summer, you can spray the flower a couple of times a week - this will make it grow better.
2. Temperature. Chrysanthemum is a fairly non-capricious plant; it calmly survives temperature changes. However, it blooms and develops best in summer at a temperature of 22-24 degrees. The optimal winter temperature is 6-8 degrees. The plant can survive minor frosts down to -3 degrees.
3. Illumination. When choosing a place for your flower, it is very important to find a natural balance. If you place the chrysanthemum in direct sunlight, the plant will dry out and the flowers will fade too quickly. If you place the plant on the north side, the buds may simply not open. Optimal choice- these are eastern and western windows, that is, places where the sun's rays hit the flower in the morning or evening. Chrysanthemum blooms in autumn, when daylight hours become short, 8-10 hours. Some experienced gardeners create an artificial environment, forcing the chrysanthemum to bloom. That is, every day they cover the plant with a dark cap, simulating night. This way you can achieve repeated flowering of chrysanthemums within a year.
4. Feeding. Chrysanthemums should be fertilized no earlier than two weeks after transplantation. If you added droppings to the substrate, it means that the chrysanthemum does not need feeding for about two more months. In general, the flower needs to be fertilized only in spring, summer and autumn, when the chrysanthemum is actively growing and blooming. In winter, feeding is stopped. Plants need to be fertilized with compounds containing nitrogen and phosphorus.
5. Flower molding. Flower shops often sell incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums in the form of a blooming ball. To achieve such a figure, the chrysanthemum needs to be formed in time. To do this, you need to pinch the plant in those places where it goes beyond the frame of the figure. This not only shapes the appearance of the future flower, but also increases the number of young shoots on the plucked branch. Usually in the spring-summer period two or three moldings are enough.
6. Wintering. When the chrysanthemum has faded, it must be properly sent for wintering so that next spring it will delight you with young green shoots. To do this, all faded buds, dry leaves and stems must be cut off. The plant should have cuttings no more than 10-15 cm in height. After this, the flower along with the pot should be placed in a cool room - entrance, basement, garage. Chrysanthemums can also be transplanted into open ground for the winter. To do this, the plant is dug up along with the root system, planted in the soil, sprinkled with dry soil and leaves. However, this does not guarantee that the flower will survive. In the spring, when the first young leaves appear, the flower can be planted back into the pot.

Chrysanthemum blooms almost always. But if in the fall, with the decrease in daylight hours, the plant still does not please you with flowering, it means that the care was incorrect. Pay attention to the lighting. Chrysanthemum will not bloom if it does not have enough sun. Also, the plant will not please you with flowering if you have not fed it - the plant does not bloom in poor soil with a lack of phosphorus and potassium.

It is important to note that the last pinching should be in the summer. If you pinch your chrysanthemum too late, there is a chance that you are cutting off branches that were intended to produce buds. Don’t delay with molding, and if you didn’t have time to do it in the summer, don’t touch the chrysanthemum so as not to lose its flowering completely.

What does chrysanthemum suffer from?

Like other house flowers, chrysanthemum can be susceptible to diseases and pests. Most often you can find spider mites on chrysanthemum bushes. You can easily recognize its presence by its thin and sticky web. In this case, immediate treatment is required. The easiest way is to wipe with soap. Dissolve in warm water soap solution and gently wipe all the leaves and stems of the plant with it. After this, rinse indoor flower under the shower, choosing light streams so that the water does not damage the bush.

If you notice a gray coating on your chrysanthemums, it means that the plant is sick with powdery mildew. This is one of the most common ailments. In this case, a fungicide, which is sold in flower shops, will help. Chemical composition diluted in water according to the instructions, and then sprayed on the plant. Usually one treatment is enough. Powdery mildew affects the flower when high humidity. After processing, you should move the pot to a drier room.

If the edges of the chrysanthemum leaves turn brown and the stems have an ashy coating, it means that the plant has become sick with gray rot. Here you will need treatment with foundationazole. But if the indoor air is too dry, the plant can be affected by spider mites. It is exterminated with alcohol tincture of garlic.

Chrysanthemum – amazing flower autumn. He plays with colors, delighting his owners with various shades. Proper and competent care will allow you to grow this riot of colors at home yourself.

Video: growing chrysanthemums at home