Is it possible to water rhododendrons with citrus fertilizer? Rhododendron: seasonal care. Signs of nutritional deficiencies

We consider caring for rhododendron in open ground in spring, summer, autumn and winter. The following are described in detail: watering, fertilizing, fertilizers, pruning and flowering, as well as preparation for winter, pests and diseases.

Plus regional features: Moscow region, Ural, Siberia, North-West (Leningrad region) and the Middle zone.

How to care for rhododendron in the garden in spring and summer?

Planting lays the foundation for further plant care in open ground. If it is planted in the right place in the right soil mixture, then further care much simpler. We described how to do this correctly in a special material - see at the bottom of the page.

In spring, the flower awakens after winter and you need to help it recover, save it from drying out and rotting. Caring for rhododendron in spring and summer consists of regular watering and spraying, fertilizing, pruning and disease prevention.

Saving the kidneys from drying out

After active snow melting (mid-March - early April), the soil can slowly thaw and the sun can become hot. The evaporation of moisture from the buds and leaves increases, and the roots are constrained and have not awakened.
Therefore, free the bush from last year’s frozen mulch (you can loosen it and remove half the layer) so that the ground near the roots thaws faster.
This will allow the roots to start working and save the buds from drying out. It is especially important to remove the mulch quickly if the winter was cold or with little snow.
Water the rose tree hot water(even boiling water) and spray warm water.
If the rhododendron overwintered without shelter, then make a protective shield from the sun on the south and west sides. Drive in the stakes and stretch the fabric. Read more in the article “Preparing for winter” - link at the bottom of the page.
After complete thawing of the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm (beginning - mid-April), on a cloudy day or in the evening, remove the protective cover (covering material) or winter shelter.

If you still find signs of burns on the shoots, the buds have dried out and do not begin to grow, then spray them with warm water every day, and every 3-4 days with a growth stimulator (Zircon, Epin, etc.).

Rhododendron flower buds in spring after removing winter cover

Rhododendron pruning

Trim the plant only if necessary (once every 2-5 years): if you need to update an old specimen, shorten a bush that is too tall, or remove frozen stems.

Classic formative pruning is not necessary because the natural shape of the plant is correct and attractive in 99% of cases.

Rules

Carry out pruning before the buds swell (mid-March - early April).
The cut should be made directly above the dormant growth point - a small pinkish swelling-thickening. Be sure to learn how to identify them.
Treat each cut with garden varnish.
Provide pruned specimens with regular watering and fertilizing during the active growing season.

Species features

Small deciduous species need to be rejuvenated every 5-7 years, and large ones (Canadian and others) every 14-18 years.
Small-leaved evergreen species up to 4-5 years old need to be pruned to stimulate branching. If desired, you can even create a ball shape. Since powerful flowering is observed even in 20-25 year old branches, they are rarely pruned.
Evergreen species with large leaves are trimmed every spring by 1-3 shoots from their total number so that the lateral branches develop better. Otherwise, in a few years these shoots will become ugly and long branches with leaves only at the top. The leaves themselves will become small and the flowering will be weak.

How to trim a large bush?

Trim the shoots in places 2-4 cm thick near dormant buds. After 20-25 days, the dormant buds will wake up and begin to grow, and next year the decorative appearance of the bush will be restored.

How to rejuvenate a bush?

To rejuvenate very old bushes or those seriously damaged by frost and wind, cut the branches at a level of 30-40 cm from the soil near dormant buds: first one half, and after a year the other, to facilitate rehabilitation.

Rejuvenating pruning of evergreen rhododendron after an unsuccessful winter

Advice

If you want a thick and spreading deciduous rhododendron, then pinch out seasonal shoots in June for the first 3-4 years after planting, and cut off all weak stems inside the crown in September.

How to water rhododendron?

A deficiency or excess of water is undesirable for a plant. Prolonged lack of water prevents the seasonal growth of shoots, impairs flowering and reduces decorativeness (leaves dry out, turn yellow, and old leaves fall off en masse).

Leaves signal a lack of moisture. Due to the loss of turgor, they droop, wither and acquire a matte tint. Lack of watering aggravates the situation: the leaves turn yellow, brown (edges and central vein), dry out and die.

“Rosewood” is harmed by stagnation of water, and it is sensitive to excessive amounts of moisture in the soil. This disrupts the development of the flower, since little oxygen reaches the roots. At the same time, the leaves also turn yellow, wither and fall off.

The frequency of watering is affected by the planting location, the composition of the soil mixture and climatic conditions. Rhododendron, planted in a favorable location and in the correct soil mixture, needs less frequent watering.

Ideally, determine the frequency of watering yourself based on the condition of the leaves and the amount of precipitation. As soon as they become dull (the shine has disappeared) and droop a little, they need moisture. Therefore, watch for these signs and accumulate your personal experience.

The most important periods for watering: active growth and development (April - mid-July) and preparation for winter (mid-September - November).

April - July

During the period of intense growing season, during the flowering period and after it, there is an increased need for moisture; the root ball should not be allowed to dry out. Therefore, every 4-7 days, water 10-14 liters of water into the tree trunk circle under an adult bush.

If spring and summer are hot and there is little rain, then you need to water more often and supplement with spraying. Every 2-3 days, early in the morning or late evening, spray the leaves with water.

August and September

At the same time, in August and September it is necessary to water less often - 10-14 liters of water every 8-12 days, otherwise secondary growth of stems is possible.

Loosening the soil

Others believe that it is advisable to weed 3-4 times over the summer, but very carefully: loosen 1-2 times in one place 3-4 cm deep.

Adviсe

Water for watering and spraying the “rose tree” should be soft and acidified (pH 4.0-5.0) - a teaspoon of citric or oxalic acid per 10 liters of water.

Feeding and fertilizers

Proper feeding ensures good growth and development, powerful and beautiful bloom, and also increases the resistance of rhododendron to unfavorable external factors(pests, frost, diseases, wind).

The most important periods: March - April and immediately after flowering.

It is advisable to use liquid fertilizer. In this case, the nutrient solution requires a low concentration, since rhododendron grows slowly and the roots lie close to the surface.

Signs of need for feeding

Light, pale leaves without shine. Yellowish-green shoots. Small seasonal increase. Weak or no flowering. Old leaves fall off en masse in August.

Change in leaf color is the first symptom of deficiency nutrients.

What fertilizer to use for rhododendrons?

A good option would be to use a special fertilizer; it has a balanced composition of mineral elements and rapid solubility. You can also use complex mineral fertilizers, for example, “Kemira-universal” and organic.

Organic fertilizers

According to experts, organic fertilizers are more preferable because they are better absorbed than mineral ones and improve the soil (looseness, moisture and air permeability).

Of these, it is better to use: blood meal, semi-rotted cow dung and horn meal. Do not use: bird droppings, pig and horse manure.

Fill the semi-rotted manure with water 1:15-20 and leave for 3-4 days. Before fertilizing, water the bush (the root ball should be completely wet). Can only be used from April to the end of June.

In spring or autumn, semi-rotted manure can be scattered near the bush in a 4-5 cm layer on the surface of the ground, so that with incoming moisture from rain or melting snow necessary elements fueled it.

Mineral fertilizers

Since rosewood prefers acidic soils, it is necessary to use acidic fertilizers. These are mainly: potassium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium phosphate and sulfates - ammonium, potassium, calcium and magnesium. Fertilizers containing chlorine are prohibited.

The nutrient solution for feeding should be 0.1-0.2% i.e. 1 gram of substance per liter of water, and potash fertilizers - 0.05-0.1%.

Feeding schedule

After winter, rhododendron needs to be fed, and if the acidity level has increased (“”), then the soil needs to be slightly acidified.

To acidify, add a tablespoon of vinegar, oxalic acid or citric acid. Especially if the bush grows on loamy or sandy soil.

After the snow melts (late March - early April), water the plant with mullein infusion or dissolve 20 grams of ammonium sulfate, 6 grams of potassium sulfate and 8 grams of superphosphate in 10 liters of water.
After this, immediately mulch the tree trunk circle with a 6-8 cm layer of pine sawdust or peat.
Such mulch will reduce acidity, retain moisture longer and prevent the active growth of weeds. The base of the bush cannot be covered; it is better to sprinkle it with coarse sand to prevent rot and stagnation of water.
After 20-25 days or 10-14 days before flowering (beginning of budding). Same composition.
During flowering or immediately after it. To make the bush bloom more powerfully or regain its strength: 8 grams of superphosphate and 6 grams of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water.

To maintain the required soil acidity after the first and second fertilizing, it is advisable to water with the following solution: 8 grams of potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water. If you watered it with mullein infusion, then there is no need.

2nd option

Before flowering. Apply 20-30 grams of special fertilizer or Kemira Universal fertilizer (2-3 grams per liter) under the bush. In any of the options, add nitrogen for growth: 5-10 grams of carbamide (urea) or ammonium nitrate.
Immediately after flowering. Similar feeding.
Late July – early August. 30 grams of superphosphate, 15 grams of potassium sulfate + 10 grams of complex mineral fertilizer per 10 liters of water. Fertilizing accelerates the lignification of shoots and prevents their growth in late summer - early autumn.

3rd option

After the snow melts (late March - early April). Scatter over the surface of the earth per 1 m2 or a specimen above 100 cm: 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g each of potassium sulfate and superphosphate or 50 g each of ammonium sulfate and magnesium.
After flowering (late May - early June). 20 grams of ammonium sulfate and 10 grams of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

This option is much lighter than liquid fertilizers and is suitable for those who have planted a large number of plants.

Adviсe

Do not use fertilizers that reduce soil acidity, such as wood ash.
Do not use slow-release granular fertilizers as they may cause secondary growth of stems in August that will freeze in the winter. They are designed for the European climate with six warm months a year.
If secondary growth does begin, then spray the bush with potassium sulfate - 10 grams per liter of water.
The editors of the Flower Festival magazine recommend using more organic fertilizers than mineral ones.

Disease Prevention

At the end of April - beginning of May, spill or spray the “rose tree” with copper-containing fungicides (copper oxychloride “HOM”, copper sulfate).

Preventive treatments are especially important for the species: Canada, Ledebur and evergreen species.

Rhododendron blossom

All gardeners expect unique and powerful flowering of the bush every year. Despite their attractive appearance all season long, it is the luxurious inflorescences that create maximum decorative value and captivate millions of eyes.

When does rhododendron bloom or flowering time?

The timing of flowering depends on the climatic conditions of a particular area and year, the variety and condition of the plant. Typically the flowering period lasts from April to June. Early flowering species (Daurian, Canadian, Ledebura) bloom in mid-late April and in early-mid May they stop blooming.

Then the evergreen large-leaved species begin to bloom in early to mid-May, and are soon joined by deciduous species and varieties based on them.

How long or how long does rhododendron bloom?

Flowering period for different types and varieties lasts a different number of days, on average 16-20 (30-45). The duration of flowering depends on many factors: amount of light, temperature, species characteristics, amount of nutrients, etc.

Care after flowering

To ensure that the “rose tree” blooms profusely every year, break out the inflorescences immediately after they have bloomed (there will be no seeds!). The inflorescence at the base breaks off effortlessly with your hands, but you need to be careful not to damage the young shoots.

This procedure will help the bush to direct all its forces to the formation of lateral buds and abundant flowering next season. It will also become more lush, because not one, but 2-3 young shoots will appear at the base of the inflorescence.

Then water the plant generously and feed it with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

It is especially important to break out the inflorescences of large-leaved species.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky "Grandiflorum" (Grandiflorum)

Rhododendron: care in autumn and preparation for winter

Caring for rhododendron in the fall comes down to preparing for wintering, which includes proper watering, disease prevention, mulching and, if necessary, protection with covering material or construction of a shelter.

Watering

In September we water more often than in August, and in October we need abundant watering before winter, especially in dry autumn and for evergreen species and varieties. Water them until the November frosts. If it is not possible to go to the country in November, then it is better to plant only deciduous rhododendrons.

IN rainy autumn, often in the Moscow region, Leningrad region, watering is rare.

A sufficient amount of moisture in September – October – November contributes to the successful wintering of the plant, increases its endurance, and drought reduces resistance to external negative factors.

Disease Prevention

At the end of September - beginning of October (before frost), treat the plant " Bordeaux mixture», copper sulfate or a copper-containing fungicide to prevent fungal diseases.

Preparing for winter and sheltering for the winter

By the beginning of October, the bush should have formed flower (large, round) and growth (smaller and sharper) buds for the next year. The main task is to preserve these buds until spring from freezing, burns, breakage and drying out.

Since this is a very serious point in caring for rhododendron, we covered it in a special article - see the link at the bottom of the page.

Pests and diseases

Depending on the species and variety, the susceptibility of rhododendrons to diseases and pests differs. According to the observations of flower growers, in an open and sunny area, evergreen species are more likely to suffer from pests and diseases than in light partial shade.

At the same time, a strong and strong plant is less susceptible to encountering “uninvited guests.” Therefore, proper care of rhododendron in open ground is of decisive importance here too.

Fungal diseases: anthracnose, bacterial root cancer, wax disease (leaf swelling), bud rot, mosaic. Various leaf spots, rust, gray mold, tracheomycosis wilt, late blight root rot,

Possible problems during cultivation

Why do rhododendron leaves have brown leaves?

Often the leaves become brown(central vein and edges) not due to any fungal disease, but due to lack of moisture. This is the main factor.

The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry out due to sunburn in the spring or lack of moisture due to the heat.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

In addition to a lack or excess of moisture, the reason often lies in low acidity of the soil. Set aside and acidify the water before watering, feed with a buffer solution - the composition in the first feeding option.

Flower buds fall off

Reason – high temperature air and low humidity.

Why do the leaves curl?

Flowers wither due to insufficient watering or low humidity. Spray the plant more often.

If this happened after the first autumn frosts, then there is no need to worry - this is a natural process. Read about this in the article “Preparing for winter.”

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish you proper development and beautiful flowering!

To take a break from the oppressive urban environment, go to the dacha to admire the rhododendron, ornamental shrub heather family. “Rose tree” is wonderful in all respects: it has very original leathery leaves and magnificent large inflorescences. But in order for it to bloom intensively, it needs to be intensively cared for: planted in a suitable place, watered in a timely manner, regularly loosened and weeded, and fed properly.

If you are planning to grow rhododendrons in Middle lane(Moscow region), in the Leningrad region, in the Urals or in Siberia, then you should pay attention exclusively to winter-hardy varieties, which can withstand temperatures dropping in winter to -25 degrees or more.

Among these frost-resistant varieties rhododendrons include the following: Roseum Elegance, Nova Zembla, Grandiflorum, Golden Lights, White Lights, Rosie Lights, Grandma, Impeditum Golden Lights, English Roseum, Karens, Mount St. Helens, Caractacus, Daursky and PZHM Elite.

In general, rhododendrons can be divided into 2 varieties:

Video: varieties and types of rhododendron

When and how to plant rhododendrons in open ground

Landing dates

Rhododendrons can be planted both in spring and autumn. If you decide to plant in the spring, then it is advisable to do it before the plant blooms, in other words, depending on the region (in the Middle Zone, Moscow region a little earlier, in the Urals and Siberia - later), this could be April - May. Autumn planting Rhododendron planting is best done in early autumn; it is recommended to do it before the second half of October. This timing is explained by the fact that wet and cool weather is ideal for the plant to take root in the garden.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

It can help you choose the optimal date for disembarkation. Lunar calendar.

So favorable days for planting rhododendron in 2019 according to the Lunar calendar are:

in March - 12-17, 19, 20, 27-30;
in April - 6-8, 11-13, 15-17, 24-26, 29, 30;
in May - 6-8, 10-17, 21-23, 26-28, 31;
in June - 1, 2, 5, 6, 9-13, 16-20, 27-30;
in July - 8-12, 25-31;
in August - 2-6, 17, 18, 21-23, 26-28;
in September - 1-5, 7-10, 17-24;
in October - 4-7, 9-12, 19-21, 23-25, 27;
in November - 13-18.

Unfavorable days according to the lunar calendar for 2019 The dates for planting rhododendron are:

in March - 6, 7, 21;
in April - 5, 19;
in May - 5, 19;
in June - 3, 4, 17;
in July - 2, 3, 17;
in August - 15, 16, 30, 31;
in September - 14, 15, 28, 29;
in October - 14, 28;
in November - 12, 13, 26, 27.

According to lunar calendar from the magazine “1000 tips for a summer resident.”

Place in the garden for planting

Rhododendron, like everyone else flowering shrubs, still loves the sun. Therefore, find a place to plant that is sunny or has light partial shade. It’s good if from 10-11 in the morning until 4-5 in the afternoon direct and burning sun rays. Moreover, this shrub does not tolerate drafts, but it definitely needs to provide a flow of fresh air. For example, it is good to plant rhododendron near fruit trees(the same apple tree), which would slightly shade the bush during the day, at a distance of about 1.5 meters from the crown.

Advice! Deciduous rhododendrons need more sun than evergreen ones.

Planting pit and soil

Although the rhododendron pot is usually small, landing pit you need a fairly large one, it should be about 3-4 times larger than the root system of the seedling. Dimensions the following are required: depth from 50-90 centimeters, width - 60-80 centimeters (depending on the size of the seedling and the soil. If the soil is too clayey, then the hole should be larger).

Important! If the soil on your site is clayey, then about 10-15 centimeters of drainage material should be laid at the bottom. You can use any inert substance as drainage, that is, gravel, crushed stone, and coarse sand are suitable.

If you want to plant several rhododendrons nearby, it is advisable to plant them at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other.

Rhododendrons love acidic soils. In normal (sandy or clayey) conditions, these plants grow very poorly, literally for 1 season, and then they wither and disappear (as a rule, they simply do not survive the winter). Therefore, to fill the planting hole you will need acidic high peat. It is sold ready-made in garden stores or you can dig it up in a forest swamp. You will also need pine litter(these are needles and twigs of coniferous trees that have fallen on the soil, for example, there is pine litter), you can also collect it in the forest, and you need to collect it not dry (it should be discarded), but rather loose and smelling of mushrooms. These components must be mixed in equal parts.

Another one suitable for rhododendron soil mixture recipe: 6 parts of acidic high peat, 2 parts of pine bark and 1 part of garden soil.

You can also purchase in the store special soil for azaleas(this is a type of rhododendron).

Video: personal experience of growing rhododendrons

Direct landing

Step by step instructions planting rhododendrons in open ground:

Video: how to plant rhododendrons

Caring for rhododendron in open ground

So that rhododendron grows well and blooms profusely on your summer cottage, he needs proper and timely care.

Rhododendron, like all heathers, does not tolerate drying out of the soil. And the peat mixture in which this shrub grows dries out very quickly, especially in the summer when the weather is hot. Therefore, it is worth paying regular attention to the plant and on time. water.

At the end of summer (August), experienced gardeners recommend stopping watering.

Advice! In the first 2 years, it is highly recommended to do surface spraying in dry weather, in other words, water directly over the crown.

Weeds should not be allowed to grow in the tree trunk of the bush. To avoid this, it is necessary to mulch the hole at the planting stage and, if necessary, add additional mulch, as well as weed and loosen.

Top dressing

Early spring rhododendron good feed any nitrogen-containing fertilizer. For example, you can use ammonium nitrate and prepare a solution by taking 1 tbsp. spoon of fertilizer and dissolving it in 10 liters of water.

If your rhododendron bloomed profusely, then to replenish its strength, a mandatory summer feeding

As for such fertilizing, it is advisable to do 2-3 fertilizing with acidic fertilizers during the summer. Store-bought azalea fertilizers are great for this.

Video: when and what to feed rhododendrons

The second feeding of rhododendrons in summer should be done at the end of July. For this you should use potassium sulfate. To prepare the solution, you will need 1 tbsp. a spoonful of fertilizer and 10 liters of water.

Video: second summer feeding

Important! At the end of flowering in the first 2-3 years, it is advisable to quickly and carefully remove faded inflorescences, otherwise they form seed material that draws strength from the rhododendrons.

After the rhododendron has flowered, if it feels good and you take care of it properly, it will definitely produce young shoots. If they do not appear, then this is a clear signal that the care is incorrect or insufficient (for example, watering).

Video: caring for rhododendrons

Pay attention! About caring for rhododendrons in the fall and preparing them for winter you can read more

Video: preparing rhododendrons for winter

How to transplant a rhododendron to a new place

Sometimes it happens that a plant does not take root in one place, and it should be transplanted to a more suitable one. Rhododendrons are not afraid of transplantation, because... they are quite compact root system, however, you should follow some rules for changing the place of residence of a bush:

As for the timing, it is worth replanting a rhododendron, just like planting it for the first time, either early spring, or in the first month of autumn.
It is optimal to transship shrubs in slightly cool and cloudy weather, but not in dry and sunny weather.
When you dig up a plant, despite the fact that the root system is small, under no circumstances should you damage it.
It is necessary to dig up the plant together with an earthen lump, which should not crumble when moved to another place, so the movement must be done using a wheelbarrow, placing the earthen lump on it.
In the first year after replanting, it is advisable to cover the shrub for the winter with one of the popular covering materials (for example, spunbond), and this is done to protect the plant from burns.

If you like the pleasant shapes and luxurious flowers of the “alpine rose” (another name for rhododendron), do not drive away the idea of planting this beautiful shrub in your summer cottage. Proper and vigorous efforts to plant and care will more than pay off with a truly unforgettable spectacle.

Video: planting and caring for rhododendron

How to feed rhododendron in spring and summer?

Rhododendron is a member of the heather family, with delicate spherical flowers. This is a slow-growing flower with a shallow root system, so it is important to drain the soil regularly, otherwise water and nutrients will not reach the roots in full. The plant loves to be fertilized. In return, he always thanks with his bright, beautiful buds. This article is about how to feed rhododendron in the spring for flowering, after flowering and in the summer for laying buds on next year.

General information about fertilizers for rhododendron

The store sells a wide range of fertilizers for of this plant. The flower reacts positively to their application. However, some nuances should be taken into account:

To feed young rhododendrons, only liquid fertilizers are used, because they are better absorbed.
It is not recommended to use imported granular fertilizers in our latitudes. For the most part, they are designed for growing flowers in warm climates, when there are more hot days a year. When they are introduced, new shoots may grow at the end of August, which will lead to their subsequent freezing with the onset of winter in temperate latitudes.
You cannot fertilize the plant with ash. It reduces the acidity of the soil, which in turn leads to chlorosis in rhododendrons. The disease manifests itself as yellowing between the veins of the leaf.
Superphosphates should not be overused. In large quantities, they lead to a lack of iron, which is fraught with the development of chlorosis, especially on young leaves.
Do not use preparations containing chlorine and lime, because this will kill mycorrhizae. Many varieties of rhododendrons love acidic soils (ph 4.5-5.5).

Rhododendron is fed three times a year, but the composition of the fertilizer varies depending on the period.

Fertilizing in spring during bud formation

Azofoska fertilizer is good with a ratio of 22:11:11 nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It will fill the soil with mineral elements, make the root system stronger, activate growth processes and prolong the period of abundant flowering. The drug is perfectly preserved in the soil and is not washed out too quickly.

"Azofoska" has the appearance of yellowish granules. This is a universal product for spring feeding. Suitable for any type of soil.

Avoid applying high concentrations of fertilizer - this will burn the roots and in severe cases can cause death. Follow the dosage instructions on the package.

The most popular specialized fertilizers are: "Rodo&Azalea Azet". Contains soil microorganisms and fungi. The drug is granular, consumption is as follows: 100 g of dry granules per adult plant. It is recommended to use it at the beginning of the flowering season. This fertilizer saturates the soil with nutrients for 4 months.

Second feeding after flowering - at the end of May (or beginning of June)

The second feeding promotes the formation of buds with flower buds for next year. The universal fertilizer has the following composition: 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. These components can be purchased at a flower shop. By combining them, you will get 80 g of fertilizer, which is enough for 1 square meter area.

Can be used instant fertilizer "Kemira-universal", which is recommended by many gardeners. It is diluted in water (20-30 grams per 10 liters), after which the plant is watered with the composition. More detailed instructions can be found on the packaging.

Organic fertilizers are also needed. The most popular option is to use acidic high-moor peat.

Rotted manure should be used with great care. For feeding, manure is diluted in water in a ratio of 1 to 20, then left for several days so that microbiological processes begin in the solution. Manure solution will saturate the soil with nutrients, make the soil loose, and improve its aeration. You can also add superphosphate to it (300 g per 10 l).

When using manure, you must carefully monitor the pH of the soil. Such fertilizing can greatly reduce its acidity, so it should not be done often.

Suitable as an organic fertilizer for rhododendrons horn flour (or shavings). Unlike manure, this fertilizer contains a lot of phosphorus, and the biodegradation process takes longer.

If possible, it is advisable to enrich the soil with fertilizers of organic origin, as they are better accepted by the plant. Just like mineral ones, it is better to apply them in diluted liquid form. Before adding, rhododendrons are thoroughly watered.

Third feeding at the end of July

During this period, fertilizers without nitrogen are used. Acidic preparations give good results. 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate per plant are added to the soil. This composition helps to strengthen the shoots and compact their tissues, which has a very beneficial effect on the plant during wintering.

Mulching is carried out at the end of August. This helps avoid freezing in winter, keeps the soil loose, prevents the formation of weeds, and retains moisture in the soil. Organic mulch is made from pine needles. It takes 3 years to form. Organic mulch works well for rhododendrons since they are acidophilic plants. It is important not to cover the base of the bush when mulching, because this can lead to overheating of the roots.

When applying fertilizers and mulching, do not further acidify the soil.

What you need to know about watering

The ideal option for watering rhododendrons would be soft and acidic water with a low salt content. Tap water contains bleach and lime. It is too hard and not suitable for watering. Therefore, it must be softened or used for irrigation with rain, melt or running water. You can test water for hardness using soap. If it lathers easily, then the water is of satisfactory hardness.

Using hard water will destroy mycorrhizae. Subsequently, the entire plant may die.

Hardness can be reduced in the following ways:

adding concentrated sulfuric acid (H2SO4) 1 ml per 10 l;
using oxalic acid (C2H2O4) at the rate of 22.5 g per 1 cubic meter;
adding citric acid 3-4 grams per 10 liters of water;
more affordable way to reduce hardness, cover the soil with acidic peat; take 0.5-1 kg per 1 cubic meter.

Rhododendrons need to be watered abundantly; one adult plant usually requires up to 10-12 liters. In case of severe drought, it is also advisable to spray.

What to do when rhododendron leaves change color?

When a plant lacks one of the mineral macro- or microelements, its appearance changes. Frequently encountered signs: yellowing of leaves, young shoots do not grow, buds do not bloom, shoots turn yellow, leaves become spotted, etc. A common disease is chlorosis.

In rhododendrons, this disease can occur due to the addition of lime or dolomite flour. These fertilizers shift the pH of the soil to the alkaline side, which the flower really does not like. Acidity can be restored using special acidifiers. Another way to acidify the soil is application of sphagnum peat.

If the leaves have lost their shine and brown spots appear on their edges, this may be a sign of water deficiency or potassium deficiency.

If the rhododendron is initially planted on clay soil, then the leaves may turn yellow as a result of the intake large quantity aluminum ions. To return them to their previous appearance, they should be used for watering iron chelate solution.

What to do if the shoots grow in the fall?

Autumn shoots will freeze in winter, so their growth must be stopped. To prevent secondary growth of shoots, watering is sharply reduced starting in August. The last feeding is applied at the end of July. If the weather is rainy, then watering can be stopped altogether.

All conditions are met, but shoots still appear? Then the rhododendron needs to be treated with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate or potassium phosphate. This procedure will stop the growth of young branches.

What happens if you stop fertilizing rhododendron?

If in the first years of its life the rhododendron developed on soil rich in mineral elements, and then it was no longer fertilized, then the reserve of nutrients will dry up. The plant will lose its decorative look. The acidity of the soil will decrease and the plant will become sick. In the most severe cases, this can even lead to his death.

Now you know how to feed rhododendron in the spring and summer in July. Proper care will give it the opportunity to develop faster, bloom profusely and look healthy.

The rhododendron plant comes from the Heather family. Translated, the name rhododendron means rose tree. This is a fairly well-known plant for growing at home, and the common people call it indoor rhododendron.

General information

The plant is distributed in the Northern Hemisphere. Less common in Japan, Asia, North America. In the Ukrainian expanses, this plant grows in the subalpine zone, and only Carpathian rhododendron. But only there they call it in their own way “Chervona Ruta”. This species is listed in the Red Book.

The rhododendron flower grows in nature both in groups and as single individuals. It is found on mountain slopes in swampy areas and in the tundra.

Rhododendron is an almost evergreen shrub plant or tree. The height of miniature species ranges from 10 cm to one meter, and there are exceptions whose height is about 30 meters.

The leaves of the plant vary in shape and size. The foliage is arranged in a spiral shape. The leaf shape is an oblong oval with slight pubescence. Inflorescences are presented in racemes or corymbs, sometimes singly. The corolla has a sunny or pinkish tint.

The fruits are formed in the form of capsules with many seeds. There are about 1,300 plant species in the natural environment.

Varieties and types

This is a deciduous species, reaching a height of up to 2 meters. The shoots of the plant are directed upward. The ellipse-shaped foliage is about 4 cm in length and up to 1.5 cm in width. Inflorescences solitary, delicate violet shade. Flowering begins in mid-summer, after the leaves have fully appeared.

Accelerating bush. The height of this species is about 3 meters. The foliage is oblong, about 12 cm long. The inflorescences are represented by up to 10 flowers in racemes and have a pleasant aroma. Flowering occurs at the end of spring.

It is an evergreen bush with many leaves, reaching a height of 4 meters, but to a greater extent the width of the bush exceeds its height. The shape of the leaf is in the form of an ellipse, about 15 cm long. There are up to 20 flowers in the racemes. The corolla of the flower is purple. Flowering begins at the end of spring.

The accelerating species is about two meters in height. The leaves are shaped like maple leaves and are found at the ends of the stems. The inflorescences are pale pink with splashes, the flower diameter is about 10 cm.

This is a bush, about 2 meters tall. The shape of the bush is decomposed. The foliage is elongated, about 10 cm in length, slightly pubescent. IN autumn period has a yellowish-red tint. Scarlet inflorescences sunny shade, about 8 cm in diameter with a pleasant aroma. Flowering begins in the last month of spring. Flowering duration is more than a month.

Quite common. Due to the abundance of flowers, leaves are almost completely invisible. Height is about one meter. Inflorescences are bell-shaped. The color of the flower is scarlet, yellow or pink.

This is not large sizes bush up to half a meter in height. Adults of the plant have a dark bark shade gray shade. The leaves of the species are elongated with a rounded end. Young individuals have an individually pleasant, but more pungent aroma.

The inflorescences of the species have a light pink tint and have no aroma. There are about 15 flowers in the racemes. Flowering lasts throughout the summer.

Height is about 1 meter 20 centimeters. With a brown tint to the bark. The shoots are more accelerating in nature.

The foliage is oblong and oval shaped. WITH inside the leaf is covered with hairs. The flowers are clustered in corymbs of about 8 pieces. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 3 cm. The shade of the petals is light or pale pink. It blooms in spring and is a good honey plant. The hybrid species is quite demanding in care and planting.

Not a large shrub. The shoots are spreading. Foliage alternate, about 8 cm long, leaf surface olive shade, and on the inside of a less clear shade. Inflorescences on high stalks, about 5 flowers on one. After flowering, a fruit capsule with small seeds is formed. The aroma of the plant is similar to that of fresh strawberries.

Not a three-dimensional tree shaped like a ball. The foliage is narrowed, dense, glossy on the outside. The leaves have a dark olive hue on the outside, and on the inside they have a chocolate hue with small fibers.

The inflorescences are about 7 cm in diameter. When flowering begins, the petals have a pale pink tint, and by the end they acquire a rich white color. Flowering begins towards the end of spring.

Has a spherical bush. A hybrid plant from Rhododendron katevsbinsky. The species was developed in 1851. The height of the plant is about 3 meters. The foliage is medium sized and elliptical in shape. Inflorescences with pink tint and purple spots. Flowering begins in late spring and lasts about a month.

Rhododendron planting and care

The planting location should be slightly shaded. Preferably the northern part. It is preferable to plant rhododendron in early spring, in the first months of spring.

Rhododendron is transplanted in the fall before the onset of frost. Also, replanting can be done at any necessary period, only a month before flowering, or after the plant has flowered in a few weeks.

Soil for rhododendrons

The soil for planting should be light, loose with a good drainage layer. It is important that the soil is acidic and with sufficient fertilizer. High peat and loamy soil in a ratio of 8:3 are suitable.

It is necessary to avoid stagnation of moisture, otherwise the plant will die. The plant must be planted in a prepared hole about half a meter in diameter and the same depth.

To acidify the soil for rhododendrons. It is necessary to add recycled sawdust from coniferous trees or rotted pine needles.

At home, you can check whether your soil needs acidification. To do this, you will need to pour boiling water over currant or cherry leaves, and when the water has cooled, throw in a little earth. If the water changes color to blue, then the soil needs acidification, if it is red, then it is normal. And if the color changes to green, then the soil is neutral.

Caring for the plant does not require special skills, you just need to loosen the soil and remove weeds in time.

Watering rhododendrons

It is preferable to provide moderate moisture to the plant. Water must be settled or, if possible, rainwater. The soil should be moist to 30 cm deep. You can determine whether watering is necessary by appearance foliage, if they become faded and dull, then moisturizing is necessary.

Rhododendron loves fairly humidified air, about 65%, so it requires frequent spraying of the leaves.

Fertilizer for rhododendrons

The plant should be fertilized from early spring until flowering ends in mid-summer. Fertilize with cow liquid manure along with water in a ratio of 1:15. Before fertilizing, the plant must be watered.

The most practical option fertilizer is used in early spring with mineral and organic complex fertilizers. During flowering with cow dung.

Autumn fertilizers for rhododendrons are necessary after flowering. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are suitable for this.

Pruning rhododendrons

The plant needs to be trimmed if necessary to create the desired shape. Pruning is done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Dry shoots are cut off and old branches, about 4 cm thick, are rejuvenated.

Plants that have not overwintered well or are outdated must be completely rejuvenated by cutting off all shoots at a height of about 30 cm from the ground.

Sheltering rhododendrons for the winter

It is necessary to cover the plant if you have hot and frosty winters. To do this, the bush is covered with dry leaves and sawdust. And the shoots themselves are covered with spruce branches and insulated with burlap.

Insulation must be removed after the snow melts in early spring.

Propagation of rhododendrons by cuttings

To do this, cut cuttings from adults. large plants about 8 cm long. Place them in a growth stimulator for half a day. And then they are planted in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1, then covered with cellophane, making a greenhouse.

Periodically opening for watering and ventilation. Rooting occurs up to 4.5 months. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into a mixture of peat and pine needles.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering

To do this, in the spring, dig a young shoot into a small hole about 16 cm deep and sprinkle it with soil, water it during the summer, and when rooting occurs, replant it separately.

Rhododendron propagation by seeds

The seeds must be sown in a container with prepared peat to a depth of about a centimeter. Cover the container with glass and periodically ventilate and moisten the soil. The temperature required for seed germination is about 15 degrees.

After several pairs of leaves appear, the seedlings are planted in separate containers, and in open ground in the second year after sowing.

Diseases and pests

Before the cold weather sets in the leaves of the plant begin to turn red and fall off . In other words, the plant is preparing for winter.
Rhododendron does not bloom The reasons may be different, the soil may not be suitable, there is little light, a lot of nitrogen fertilization, leading to the growth of branches and leaves, but flowering does not begin.
Rhododendron leaves turn yellow from excessive moisture in the root system, it is necessary to monitor moderate moisture.
Rhododendron doesn't grow due to lack of fertilizers, not acidic soil or too much sun shining, and the plant suffers from the heat.
Rhododendron sheds its leaves The reason for this may be dry soil, unsuitable land for planting, or your plant is being attacked by pests.
The rhododendron withers and the leaves turn brown The reasons are most likely dry air and insufficient spraying. There may also be excessive exposure to direct sunlight.
Rhododendron leaves are pale green with insufficient lighting, the leaves become pale and faded. The second reason is the lack of watering of the plant.
The buds of the rhododendron did not open the reason is elevated temperature air, the optimal temperature for a plant indoors is about 16, and outdoors is within 22 degrees.
Rhododendron leaves have turned black The cause was the disease chlorosis, which manifests itself when there is a lack of acidity in the soil.
When pests appear on the plant , it is necessary to treat the rhododendron bush with an appropriate insecticide.

PLANTING AND CARE

Landing. Everyone who is involved in or wants to grow rhododendrons has a question: when is the best time to replant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in cultivating rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most the right time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic - spring (April - the first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when the young shoots have finished growing and become stronger. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding flowering periods and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such a wide range of times for transplanting rhododendrons is due to the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike others ornamental trees and shrubs, the root system is practically not damaged during transplantation, and the connection between the plant roots and the substrate is not lost.

Thus, if the planting site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons grow just as well in the new location as in the old one. Only healthy plants with a well-developed compact root system should be planted in long-term plantings. In group plantings, the distance between plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.

Even before purchasing rhododendrons, you need to know what space in the garden will be allocated for planting them, and it is best to be guided by a landscaping project developed by specialists. The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from prevailing winds and from direct burning rays of the sun, and the soil should be prepared accordingly.

Rhododendrons should be watered thoroughly before planting. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplantation better. If the root balls of rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried out, they should be immersed in water for several hours to ensure that they are well saturated with water.

Before planting rhododendrons, you should carefully prepare the soil. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then a planting pit is prepared for each plant or each small group. required size, i.e. approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near big trees the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material. Acid sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil are poured into the dug hole. pine needles and other organic materials. It is not necessary to have all the named components; you can get by with several or even one material, for example peat. Organic materials fill 1/2 of the hole, and the rest of the volume - mineral soil, dug during the preparation of the hole. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m 3 of substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Mixing can be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a fully prepared substrate. The planting site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.

Rice. 15.Planting rhododendrons: 1 - rhododendron planted too shallow; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - properly planted rhododendron.

Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared hole, dig a cell corresponding to the size of the rhododendron root ball, and plant the plant in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the top of the root ball is covered with a thin layer (no more than 5 cm) of the substrate. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplantation, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, no watering is required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, after replanting, at least 5 liters of water are needed for watering, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water from spreading when watering, make a small mulch roller around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. As mulch, you can use sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.

If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have many flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that the plants that have not yet fully taken root do not waste the nutrients and moisture they need so much for flowering. A few flower buds can be left so that when flowering you can appreciate the beauty of the planted plant.

During soliter plantings, when rhododendrons are planted on the lawn one at a time, so that the wind does not shake the not yet rooted plants, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, inclined against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.

At proper care Rhododendrons bloom and bear fruit profusely every year. When flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices a periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate such periodicity, if seeds are not needed, the faded inflorescences are broken off immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year. To break off a faded inflorescence, bend it slightly, holding it large and index fingers. In this case, the fragile axis of the inflorescence easily breaks at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than using a knife or scissors. This work should be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to break off young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing faded inflorescences promotes the formation of more lush bush, since after this operation at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that one without a flower bud.

Top dressing. In order for rhododendrons to bloom profusely and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not be damaged by pests, they need to be properly fertilized. Feeding is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. For a long time, even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require feeding, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most courageous and determined gardeners, at best, used well-decomposed manure as fertilizer. There was a particularly strong prejudice against mineral fertilizers, since it was believed that rhododendrons did not tolerate them. As knowledge of mineral nutrition of plants expanded, nurseries began to carefully use mineral fertilizers to feed rhododendrons. Nowadays, no one considers it possible to obtain high-quality rhododendron planting material without the use of mineral fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantings in a permanent place also need feeding. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, lush green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habit. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, try to speed up the flowering of hybrids in order to quickly see the results of their work.

Rhododendrons are slow-growing plants with a shallow, compact root system, so they do not tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.

As the experience of specialists from the Leningrad State University Botanical Garden shows. P. Stuchki and foreign experts, rhododendrons need to be fertilized already in the first year after transplantation, immediately after rooting of the transplanted plants. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that the fertilizer be liquid.

What external signs of rhododendrons indicate a lack of nutrients? The most characteristic sign is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their shine decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very little annual growth, flower buds do not form, and in August and early September there is an increased fall of old leaves.

The most accessible and common organic fertilizers are old, semi-rotted manure, horn shavings and blood meal; horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase. As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, characterized by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and having a long-lasting and mild effect, since their decomposition process lasts longer than the decomposition of manure.

If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be given preference. Like mineral fertilizers, it is advisable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for feeding. To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water until it turns light brown. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the soil reaction, since this fertilizing can change the pH of the substrate. Before fertilizing, rhododendrons should be watered well so that the root ball is wet to its full depth.

If there is semi-rotted manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the soil surface around each plant in a layer approximately 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate into the soil, and the plants receive the necessary nutrition.

If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then you should focus on inorganic fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are essentially nutrient concentrates, so a small amount of them adds a lot of nutrients to the soil, necessary for plants. Since rhododendrons grow well in acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, calcium sulfate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for fertilizing, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.

The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used to feed rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (the solution of potassium fertilizers should be even weaker). Chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used to feed rhododendrons. You need to start feeding the plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient humidity in the soil and air, secondary growth of shoots can be caused. Young shoots that began to grow late manage to finish growing before the end of the growing season and freeze slightly in the fall even with the first light frosts. In the climatic conditions of our republic, which are characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, secondary growth of shoots at the end of August or beginning of September is observed in many species of rhododendrons. You can stop it by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 or a 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KN 2 PO 4.

Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. To prepare it, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO 3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KN 2 PO 4 are taken per 10 liters of water. The result is a solution that contains the main macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the environment within the required range (2-7) .

Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very labor-intensive job, therefore, when mass cultivating rhododendrons, mineral fertilizers are used in dry form. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, you should take 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the rhododendrons have flowered. This time the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.

You can fertilize a little differently: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied immediately after the rhododendrons have flowered. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m 2 of area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. At the end of May - beginning of June, after the rhododendrons have flowered, 80 g of a mixture is added per 1 m 2 of area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Feeding rhododendrons open ground solutions of mineral fertilizers are carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July. For fertilizing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for fertilizing rhododendrons in closed ground. For 10 liters of water, take 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution 1-2 more times.

Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so fertilizing them is discussed in the section that talks about propagating rhododendrons by seeds.

KONDRATOVICH "RHODODENDRONS", Riga, 1981 (experience of the introduction of rhododendrons in Latvia)