Dose of nitrogen fertilizers for fruit trees. Feeding fruit trees and shrubs in spring

Material prepared by: Yuri Zelikovich, teacher of the Department of Geoecology and Environmental Management

The fact that the picture is not photoshop or cool 3D. On those same 6 acres, it is indeed possible to plant a garden that not only provides the family with fruits and berries for the winter, but also provides a significant marketable surplus. How much are raspberries at the market today? Al renclodiki with the fist of a village blacksmith of old times? And one of the indispensable conditions for a consistently successful fruit and berry crop is timely proper feeding trees and shrubs.

The wild ancestors of fruit and berry crops have a pronounced periodicity of fruiting. In some year the branches break from the harvest, then there are 2-3 years of completely poor harvests, and then the yield stabilizes until the next surge. Regular fertilization of trees and shrubs orchard allows not only and not so much to smooth out peaks and troughs in yield. Without it, fruit and berry crops can “remember” their origin and return to the natural biocycle. In this case, not only does the harvest from the tree/bush fall, but the size also decreases and the taste qualities and nutritional value of fruits, the content of vitamins and biologically active substances in them decreases. An experienced gardener will say in this case: the variety is spoiled by an illiterate crop, meaning a plant of this variety.

However, tree crops are in no hurry to live their entire life in a season, as herbaceous annuals, bulbous and tuberous; physiological processes in fruit and berry plants proceed more slowly and always with an eye to the future, even if the plant does not have special storage tissues, therefore, feeding trees and shrubs should be carried out more moderately and with more precise adherence to agricultural technology. There is no way to overfeed fruits and berries: negative consequences overfeeding will have an impact in subsequent years. The symptoms are again a decrease in yield, worse taste and less usefulness of the fruit, even harmful due to excess nitrates. Which is completely unacceptable for a garden, because... it requires many larger initial investments than a vegetable garden, and it takes several years to reach profitability, at least a year for berry bushes. But then a well-kept garden will provide much more income than a vegetable garden, requiring less routine work. The materials in this article are intended primarily for owners of a small garden or country garden who do not have excess time and funds to hire labor.

Basis - calculation

Garden is different, and proper feeding fruit trees carried out taking into account a number of interrelated factors:

Type and variety of plant.
Physiological stage of its development.
Character physical development and cultivation method (dwarf, normal, lush/tall).
The type and nature of the soil under the plant.
Local climatic conditions, general and in a given year.

The recipe, dosage and fertilizer application schemes in accordance with these parameters are summarized in agronomic tables for individual species and varieties or are given in gardening reference books. It is quite difficult for a non-specialist to understand them, so feeding fruit trees and berry bushes by amateurs in their dachas and personal plots It is most often carried out according to standard schemes or proven recipes, see below. If the climatic conditions and soil in the garden of the author of the recommendation and its reader are more or less similar, then the latter’s garden will “keep varieties” and bear fruit relatively stably, but, most likely, not at the maximum level possible in this place. In addition, there are also a ton of “folk” recipes for fertilizing fruit and berry crops on the RuNet, and it’s probably no easier to understand what’s what in them without experience than in agricultural tables.

The purpose of this publication, firstly, is to provide the reader with information that will help to understand the agronomic tables and, with their help, determine what kind of fertilizers for trees and shrubs of this particular species and variety are needed on this soil in these climatic conditions, when, in what way and in what doses to apply them. Secondly, to help you understand which standard scheme/recipe is best suited for your dacha, what is possible in it, what is needed and what cannot be changed, based on existing conditions and possibilities.

Actually, the calculation of fruit and berry fertilizers is generally not complicated. Let’s say, according to the tables for such and such a variety in certain soil and climatic conditions (for example, the Melba apple tree on black soil in the Kursk region or Renet Simirenko on podzol in the Vologda region) in a standard culture it turned out that the annual need for potassium of a tree of this physiological age (see below) and size is 60 g. Based on soil conditions and availability, we select potassium fertilizer and look at the proportion of active substance in the specification. Let's say it says 17%. Then this tree needs 60/0.17 = 353 g of the selected fertilizer for a year. Round up to 350 (it’s better to underfeed a little than to overfeed).

Now let’s take into account that for trees that live slowly, the main filling of the soil with fertilizers should be carried out in the fall. By default, unless otherwise indicated in the cultivation manual for a given variety, we set aside for autumn refueling, depending on the physiological maturity of the plant (see below):

On light permeable fertile soils - 1/4 of the annual norm.
On them, infertile ones (skinny sandy loam, cartilage, etc.) - 1/3 of the annual norm.
On heavy and moderately fertile soils – 1/2 of the annual norm.
On the same infertile ones - 2/3 of the annual norm.

Of the remaining half, we apply it in the spring when refilling the soil, and the rest is evenly distributed among seasonal fertilizing. For beginning gardeners on ordinary garden soil, it is better to allocate 0.5 of the annual norm for autumn refilling and another 0.25 for spring.

NPK and others

The role of the main nutrients nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (NPK) in plant life is as follows:

Nitrogen – promotes the growth of green mass.
Phosphorus is necessary for the balance of physiological processes, increases the endurance of plants, and their resistance to diseases and pests.
Potassium - necessary for root growth, formation of new shoots, synthesis of sugars in fruits. Also provides winter hardiness.

The main elements in some modern guidelines include ferrous iron and magnesium. Although plants require them in microdoses, without them chlorophyll formation and photosynthesis are impossible. Copper, zinc, boron, manganese, sulfur, molybdenum, calcium are microelements; they are necessary for the synthesis of phytohormones and other plant biochemistry. As a rule, if the soil is not completely depleted, adult plants receive enough of them from it or as a natural admixture to basic fertilizers, especially organic ones (see below).

About foliar feeding

Foliar feeding with basic elements does not provide an “ambulance” effect for trees. You can feed woody trees with basic food through leaves only in favorable years and necessarily if available obvious signs fasting on one of them. Also, in favorable years, during periods of flowering and preparation for fruiting (at the ovary stage), it is advisable for trees to carry out boron-zinc-copper foliar micro-feeding (1-2, 3-5 and 30-40 g of active substance per 10 liters of water, respectively); for some crops, e.g. grapes, foliar micro-feeding at the beginning of fruiting is required. In unfavorable years, foliar feeding of tree crops should not be carried out.

Together or separately?

Fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers is also ineffective and even harmful for trees, excluding autumn and spring soil amendments. Basic nutritional elements for tree crops it is necessary to apply separately with an interval of at least 4-5 days. The sequence is phosphorus, potassium, then nitrogen. In favorable years, it is quite permissible to apply phosphorus and potassium together to well and deeply moistened soil: phosphorus in the soil migrates very quickly, potassium, on the contrary, slowly, so that they themselves will separate.

Another exception to these rules is seasonal feeding of juvenile plants (see below). It is possible and even desirable to feed them with NPK in the form of nitrophoska. To the south approx. line Kursk-Lipetsk in fairly wet years - with a more concentrated nitroammophoska, adhering to the same absolute dosage (in g of active ingredients per plant or sq. m).

Stages of maturity of trees and shrubs

The application technique (see below), formulation and dosage of fertilizer for fruit and berry crops significantly depend on the degree of physiological maturity of the plants. There are the following stages:

A seedling is a tree up to 2 years old, a bush within a year after planting. During this time, complete rooting of seedlings occurs. The planting hole is filled with fertilizer during planting (see below); no other fertilizing is carried out;
“Teenager” is juvenile, i.e. young, fully rooted, but not yet flowering plant. In addition to autumn-spring refueling, regular seasonal fertilizing with full NPK with microelements is carried out;
A young tree/bush – blooms, bears fruit, but has not yet reached the level of productivity of this variety under current conditions. Productivity of young fruit and berry crops experienced gardeners artificially limited by removing excess ovaries. The soil is amended in autumn and spring with full NPK. Seasonal feeding of young trees is carried out annually in average and favorable years, see below. In an unfavorable year, seasonal feeding is excluded;
An adult plant – productivity has stabilized. The soil is amended mainly in the fall; It is undesirable to force spring refueling at the expense of autumn refueling. Seasonal feeding is carried out no more than once every 2 years in favorable years;
Aging - productivity declines. The plant is “sent to work retirement”: autumn-spring refueling is done while it remains profitable or satisfies the owners’ own needs, and seasonal ones are completely excluded. How to deal with it further - see for yourself whether it will be cut down or retired as an element of landscape design.

Note: One of the main tasks of a fruit and berry breeder is to develop a variety that “skips through” the unproductive and costly teenage stage for the gardener as quickly as possible. Therefore, in many cultivated varieties it is weakly expressed or completely invisible.

Feeding schedule

We’ll talk more about what, when and how to feed fruits and berries later. For now, let's note the general features.

First– starting from 1-1.5 years (if planted in spring) for shrubs and from 2-2.5 years for trees, autumn-spring soil amendments are done regularly every year.

Second, seasonal fertilizing in favorable years is carried out depending on soil fertility and irrigation of the garden once, twice or three times:

Garden irrigated fertile soil– after the appearance of the first leaves and at the beginning of flowering.
The garden is irrigated, the soil is of average or low fertility - after the first leaves appear, at the beginning of flowering and after the ovaries appear.
The garden is rain-fed (non-irrigated) - after the first leaves appear in favorable years, as long as there is excess moisture in the soil.

Third, in special years, emergency (irregular) feeding is possible. For example, it is warm, light, short warm rains are frequent. The plants have formed many ovaries; The harvest is coming - you'll lick your fingers, or the cider fermentation tanks will burst. But one fruit requires at least a certain number of leaves; eg indoor Pavlova lemon - 20. If they are not enough, after the first seasonal feeding, but before flowering, the plants can be given nitrogen. Or vice versa, the year is hot, dry, the garden is irrigated. The harvest is expected to be small but valuable. Then, during the period of fruit formation (apples the size of walnuts, plums and beans, cherries the size of peas), you can give more potassium or, better yet, wood ash. It doesn’t come out in quantity - let’s take quality, sugar content.

Note: emergency feeding of fruits and berries with organic or mineral chemical fertilizers It is recommended to do this only if you have some experience in gardening. Without it, the plants will either become fattened or depleted. Both will “spoil the variety” for years, if not forever. Ash can be fed without fear.

Organics or chemistry?

For autumn-spring dressings, nitrogen-containing ones best agree with the rate of absorption of food by trees in terms of the speed of migration into the soil and the duration of its retention of active substances. organic fertilizers: manure, compost, humus. When preparing them for use (see below), organic matter can be supplemented with phosphorus, but potassium is added separately. Seasonal fertilizing, which requires most of all potassium and phosphorus, is done with quickly digestible mineral fertilizers.

Since the fall, organic matter has been used fresh - fully matured in a plastic (slightly moist) form; in spring - in the form of dried crushed powder. In both cases, the preparation of organic fertilizers takes approx. 2 months The initial mass is laid out in the shade at a distance from residential buildings in layers of 15-20 cm. Each layer is poured at the rate of:

– 150 g/sq.m. m.
– 220 g/sq.m. m.
from tops of garden plants – 200 g/sq.m. m.
Food compost – 70 g/sq.m. m.
Humus – 250 g/sq.m. m.

Note: Organic slurry, if necessary, is prepared from the powder, but not from fresh juice.

It will also be very useful to spray each layer with a 2% solution of potassium humate at a rate of 250 ml/sq. m; Potassium in the form of humate is compatible with phosphorus. The pile is brought to a height of 1-1.3 m, covered with earth on top, and covered with turf on the sides. The aged fresh meat is scattered and dried in a ventilated area; Do not dry in the sun. In the fall, prepared organic matter is applied under mulch (see below), in the spring under it or over the snow.

Green manure

On a small private plot the most “lazy” and cheapest, but at the same time the most effective way completely refilling the soil for fruit crops in the fall - sowing green manure nitrogen-fixing crops throughout the entire garden area. Peas, alfalfa, and clover are sown. Nitrogen-fixing cereals (rye, oats) are not suitable for the garden: they are light-loving, will not develop to their full potential in the garden and will not accumulate many nutrients. In addition, eggs and pupae of pests successfully overwinter in the hollow internodes of cereal stems.

Sow after harvest. With the onset of cold weather, the soil with withered tops is dug up or plowed. There is no need to mulch the green manure, except that on the eve of a winter with little snow, you need to sprinkle it with a thin, 1-3 fingers, layer of earth.

In the snow, under mulch or in holes?

As is known, the tree trunk circles of fruit trees. But it’s not so simple: slugs, earthworms, and mice thrive under mulch. Worms, of course, are only useful, but moles come to attack the worm. Therefore, it is advisable to give fruit and berry fertilizers for mulch either in the fall when it’s cold, or as a spring dressing before it warms up. If the garden is on level ground and enough snow has accumulated over the winter, then in the spring it is better to fertilize fruit and berry crops in the snow: the dressing will saturate the root ball more evenly and deeply, and melt water will enhance its effect without the risk of harming the plants. Organic matter is sprinkled on the snow with the appearance of the first thawed patches.

Conditions for fertilizing fruit and berry crops in the snow are not always created and are not possible everywhere, so spring filling of the soil with fertilizers in the garden is most often carried out under mulch. Here main question: where can I get it, mulch, in the spring, since everything has rotted away during the winter? Not harmful, not contaminated and not acidifying soil (see below)? For one way to provide yourself with mulch in the spring, see next. video.

Video: where to get mulch in spring

Another problem is that the most affordable wood mulch often acidifies the soil, which is extremely undesirable for the garden. Measles will certainly sour it, even if it is dust from the time of King Antipas. Therefore, before mulching, be sure to check the acidity of the soil. Litmus paper for chemically impure samples often gives incorrect results, but these days it’s easy to rent an electronic pH meter for the day. For ways to determine soil acidity, see the video tutorial:

Video: how to determine soil acidity

Note: To prevent acidification of the mulched soil, once every 5-7 years it is limed in the fall during cold weather with lime or dolomite flour at the rate of 1 kg per 1 sq. m. m. If your garden is small and not marketable or its marketability is not of decisive importance, then the acidity of the soil in it at the level of “good, okay, no good” can be determined by indicator plants, see next. video clip.

Video: plants that indicate soil acidity

Seasonal fertilizing is best done by a novice private gardener using the point method. For large market gardens, it is too labor-intensive, but it is safe: even gross violations of the dosage of fertilizers do not adversely affect the plants and damage to the surface roots by inept digging is excluded. , like a tamper, to make it more convenient to press.
For targeted feeding of fruits and berries, after watering the soil (see below), use a peg or mentally mark the outline of the crown projection on it. Then, retreating 0.5 m outwards, holes with a depth of 30-40 cm are made with a stake at intervals of 0.8-1 m. Fertilizer is added to the holes, evenly distributed over all of them, they are wrapped in earth and the remaining water is added. An additional advantage of spot feeding is that it stimulates the roots to grow deeper, which makes the plants more resilient and stabilizes the garden’s productivity.

Note: For spot feeding of shrubs, fertilizer holes are made linearly between rows.

Feeding the plants

Fertilization of fruit and berry crops is carried out in the evening; preferably on a warm, cloudy day, but not during rain. Fertilizers are applied to abundantly moist soil. The soil under fertilizer needs to be watered an hour or two before applying it. Approximate rate of spillage into minimally moistened soil (a lump clenched in a fist crumbles when the hand is unclenched):

Juvenile trees and shrubs (except hazelnuts) – 1.5 buckets per 1 sq. m of tree trunk circle.
Young trees and hazelnuts - 2.5 buckets per square meter. m of tree trunk circle.
Mature trees - 3.5-6 buckets for the same area.

The spill is carried out in portions, waiting for the next fill to be completely absorbed. If, 10-15 minutes after pouring the next portion, the soil, clenched in a fist, sticks together into a lump with fingerprints, without sticking to them in a continuous layer, then this is a sign that enough has been spilled and after half an hour or an hour you need to apply fertilizer. Also half an hour or an hour after adding them, add 1/4-1/3 of the water to the strait in the same order.

Seedlings

As is known, seedlings are fertilized during planting, and then they are not fed until they are completely rooted. The method of fertilizing fruit and berry crops during planting is also known: the hole is filled with a bucket or two of organic matter, then the filling is filled with half a shovelful of soil, filled with water, the plant is planted and watered. With proper planting in the fall, the hole is filled with fresh grass - it, slowly warming up in the winter, will warm up the roots and help the plant to overwinter. Under spring planting(which, generally speaking, is undesirable) the hole needs to be filled with sprinkling: the fresh material that intensively rots as the heat increases can burn the roots. It is useful to add 100-150 g of superphosphate or half a double dose to a bucket of powder, but in this case the dry mixture must be prepared 2 weeks in advance and allowed to rest in an open container (not metal!) in the air under a canopy.

Note: upon landing walnut you need to place a solid granite boulder or fragment in the planting hole so that the growing rod rests against it. Then you will have to wait 2-3 years for the first nuts, and not 6-8 years.

Typical feeding of fruit-bearing fruits and berries

Pomaceae

This includes pears; in the south - quince and dogwood. The peculiarity of pomaceous plants is that autumn-spring refilling of the soil under them begins after leaving the juvenile phase, after the plants bloom for the first time. The next refueling after the first on normal and fertile soil is carried out after skipping a year; then - after 3-4 years, the older, the less often. On low-fertility soils, the soil is amended annually until it reaches stable fruiting, then every 2-3 years. The procedure for fertilizing pome fruits (without autumn sowing green manure) is like this:

In autumn, after falling approx. 70-80% of foliage is added to the soil in a spot method, 200 g of potassium sulfate per young tree and 300 g of it for an adult;
A nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is immediately prepared: for 10 kg of fresh organic matter, 300 g of double superphosphate or 600 g of simple superphosphate. The rate of mixture per tree is 12-15 kg for a young tree, 20-25 kg for an adult, depending on soil fertility;
The nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is left to ripen under a canopy in a container covered with a cloth for at least 2 weeks;
During cold weather or when the plants “fall asleep” for the winter (this year’s shoots will become coarser, the buds will shrink), the nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is applied under the mulch;
If green manure has not been sown since the fall, in the spring, fresh organic matter without phosphorus is given over the snow or under mulch in an amount of 1/4 of the autumn dressing;
After unfolding the leaves, young trees are topped up with solutions of 30 g per 1 liter of water, or 400 ml of slurry per 1 liter of water, or 150 ml of fermented slurry chicken manure for 1 liter of water. Solutions are used immediately after preparation;
After flowering, fertilize the holes pointwise with a 5% superphosphate solution at the rate of 30 g of dry matter per young tree and twice as much per adult. Double superphosphate is used not only in half the amount, but also in half the concentration, i.e. the dose of working solution per tree remains the same;
After the ovaries have formed (they have reached the size hazelnut) are fed with potassium: potassium sulfate (preferably), potassium magnesium,. Application rates according to mature tree 20 g, 25 g and 50-70 g, half as much for young ones. Potassium fertilizers are applied with 5% solutions, ash - with a concentrated infusion diluted 10 times, see below;
In especially fruitful years (see below), under the white filling of the fruits, they give potassium fertilizer in the amount of 1/4 of it under the ovary (see previous paragraph);
After harvesting, the best way for beginners to prepare trees for winter is to mulch the tree trunks with humus, with the addition of wood ash, one glass per bucket, 10-15 cm thick.

In lean years, phosphorus-potassium seasonal fertilizing is not carried out. If a harvest is expected to be more than half the maximum possible (over 70-75 kg from an adult tree of varieties with normal yield), 1.5 times more urea is given, and 25% more potassium. To obtain a concentrated infusion of ash, its dry dose is mixed with water with thorough stirring and left for a day, stirring occasionally. Then they let it sit for another day. The light sludge is ash concentrate; the sediment is discarded.

Stone fruits

These are plum, cherry, sweet cherry, apricot. The soil for them is prepared in the same way as for pome crops, but compared to the latter, seasonal fertilizing has a trace. peculiarities:

Spring feeding“on foliage” is carried out at the rate of 10 g/sq. m of trunk circle for mature trees and 7 g/sq. m for young people;
In favorable (warm and moderately humid) years, after 2-3 weeks, feed with nitrophoska 30 g/sq.m. m or nitroammophoska 20 g/sq.m. m;
4-5 days after, give a 5% solution of potassium chloride (preferably) or potassium sulfate. Pome fruits do not like chlorine ions, but stone fruits are tolerant of it, but potassium chloride is absorbed faster;
The first potassium fertilizing for fruiting (similar to point 8 in the previous list) is carried out when the ovaries reach the size of a pea (cherry, sweet cherry) or bean (plum, apricot);
Additional potassium fertilizing is not carried out regardless of the current year’s yield.

Shrubs

Shrubs “live faster” than trees, so they are given half or 1/3 of the amount needed for a tree when planting in the hole. Autumn-spring soil amendments begin a year after autumn planting or 1.5 years later (in autumn) after spring. The filling dose is considered half per 1 sq. m crown projection compared to the same for a tree. For example, an apple tree shades 10 square meters in the summer at noon. m, and the bush is 1 sq. m. We divide the dose of dressing for the apple tree by 20, we get the norm for autumn-spring application under the bush; bushes, they are unpretentious and economical. What is important for shrubs is that after the first flowering, autumn filling of the soil during cold weather is canceled; it is replaced by fertilizing after harvesting.

The basic composition of the mixture for seasonal feeding of shrubs in middle lane you can take the same one: for an adult bush 4-5 kg of compost, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate and 20-30 g of superphosphate. The mixture is allowed to mature for 2 weeks; The application schedule is as follows:

During the active flowering phase (first ten days of May);
During the period of increased growth of fruiting shoots (late May - early June);
During the formation of ovaries (early July);
After the harvest.

However, methods of seasonal fertilization of shrubs are different depending on the type of crop; for the most popular berries they are:

Black currant - fertilizer is scattered under the bushes and dug up shallowly, 8-10 cm.
– fertilizer is applied with a tape under the bushes and covered with sand. An option is sawdust mulch, but then you need to monitor the acidity of the soil once a year after harvesting and, if necessary, liming it.
Gooseberries are very sick in acidic, waterlogged soils, so it is advisable to replace the compost with 10-15 ammonium nitrate per bush. The soil with the scattered dry mixture is hoeed no deeper than 6-8 cm. After 2 years on the third year, preventive liming of the soil is carried out in the fall, half a glass of dolomite flour per 1 square meter. m. Lime flour is not suitable, because. Gooseberries need quite a lot of magnesium.

Last note: Shrubs are more responsive than trees to leaf feeding, so in wet years boosting their yield with foliar feeding is quite acceptable and will not harm the plants.

Video: basic information about fertilizing fruit trees

Starting from the first days on the site, you need to take care of young seedlings. In order for the seedling to begin to grow and take root well from the first days, it is necessary to add fertilizer to it in the planting hole. After all, this is the most important thing so that the roots of a young tree immediately find themselves in a favorable environment and begin to grow.

When planting seedlings, regardless of the condition of the soil and the time of year, whether you plant in spring or autumn, you need to apply organic and mineral fertilizers. When planting a young garden on 1 m2, you need to add 6 kg of manure, 30 g of potassium salt, 60 g of superphosphate.

In addition, in each planting hole it is necessary to add 1-5 buckets of humus, 300g of superphosphate, 150g of potassium chloride or replace it with 0.5-1.0kg.

In the future, young trees cannot be ignored and they should continue to be fed with mineral and organic fertilizers until they become stronger and enter the time of full fruiting. And in the future, adult fruit trees must be fed according to special rules.

How to apply fertilizers to young seedlings and trees. So, the trees were planted according to all the rules. How to properly fertilize trees in a young garden. For young trees, fertilizers are applied to the trunk circles or to the strip occupied by the root system, root system of young trees extends beyond the crown radius. Therefore, seedlings have trunk circles that are 1.5-2 times larger than the crown projection.

How much fertilizer to apply to young trees. There are no specific standards, and how much fertilizer to apply to young trees depends on the natural fertility of the soil, on appearance seedling and how well the planting pit was filled with fertilizers. In the future, when the trees grow up, you will understand for yourself whether they need to be fed or not.

From the experience of gardeners, it has been established that on average, up to 5 kg of organic fertilizers must be applied per 1 square meter of tree trunk circle, and up to 7 g active substance mineral fertilizers.

If a young tree is 3 years old and its trunk circle is up to 5 m2, then the amount of fertilizer for it will be from 10 to 25 kg of rotted manure and 25-30 g of the active substance of mineral fertilizers.

What is the active ingredient in mineral fertilizers? Let’s make a calculation: if you take urea as a fertilizer, then it contains 46% nitrogen, which is the active ingredient. This means that twice as much urea must be applied under the tree (25gx100): 46 = 54.3g. To fertilize young trees with nitrogen, in addition to nitrate, you can use ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate.

Approximate doses of fertilizers for young trees in the city.

Diameter of the trunk circle in meters	Area of the trunk circle	Ammonium nitrate	superphosphate	Potassium chloride
1,0	1	25-30	40-50	10-12
1,5	2	50-60	80-100	20-25
2,0	3	75-90	120-150	30-35
2,5	5	125-150	200-250	50-60
3,0	7	175-210	280-350	70-85
3,5	10	250-300	400-500	100-120
4,0	13	325-390	520-650	130-160

Let us remember that nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in spring or in the first half of summer; they promote intensive growth of young shoots. Fertilizing young trees in more late dates will not allow the plant to prepare for winter.

In addition to nitrogen fertilizers, young fruit trees need potassium and phosphate fertilizers, which are applied throughout the season, but it is more effective to apply them in the fall in specially dug holes. For fertilizer you can use potassium chloride and superphosphate.

If you have enough organic fertilizers, you can feed fruit trees with them every year, but at the same time reduce the use of mineral fertilizers by half. You can read more about applying organic fertilizers in the relevant articles.

Gardeners often mistakenly believe that the best time to feed fruit trees and shrubs is spring, because the plants have been exhausted by a long winter and require a large amount of nutrients. In fact, this is not true. In order to survive the long cold winter, our garden needs no less strength. Autumn feeding It is much more effective than spring, since plants depleted of fruiting are in dire need of nutrients. In addition, fertilizers increase the resistance of trees to diseases and provide high yield next season.

When to fertilize trees and shrubs in the fall

Autumn feeding of trees begins in August and continues until the end of September/beginning of October. It is during this period that the fruiting of shrubs and fruit trees ends, which makes it possible to begin work on preparing the garden for winter.

How to fertilize

You can enrich the soil with nutrients using both mineral and organic fertilizers. Which one to choose depends on the composition of the soil and the desired results.

Mineral fertilizers

It increases the immunity of plants to diseases and pests, improves the quality of the soil, saturating it with mineral compounds. Ash is an effective fertilizer for fruit trees and shrubs, as it increases the acidity of the soil, which has a positive effect on its fruiting.

Autumn fertilization of the soil with ash should be carried out no more than once every three years. To add ash, you should dig a ditch 10 centimeters deep around the roots of fruit trees and bushes, pour 100 g of ash into it and fill the hole with soil.

Used to loosen the soil. Under no circumstances should you use wood waste in its pure form to feed plants. This depletes the soil and binds some of its useful elements.

To turn sawdust into fertilizer, you need to make it rot. Under natural conditions, this process can take up to ten years. Therefore, based on sawdust, by composting it, you can prepare nitrogen-rich organic fertilizer.

To do this, sawdust is piled up in a hole or heap, and weeds, ash, and water are added to it. Compost can also be prepared using cow dung and. The finished fertilizer should look like peat.

Sawdust also makes an excellent mulch for fruit trees and shrubs. This cover can protect the root from freezing and the plant from death. A layer of sawdust placed around the root in the fall protects it from the cold without interfering with air circulation. Another advantage of mulching with sawdust is that weeds do not grow through it.

Complex fertilizing

Complex fertilizers include fertilizers that contain two or more nutritional elements. The advantages of these fertilizers are that their rich composition allows you to almost completely satisfy the plant’s need for nutrients at all stages of the growing season.

These fertilizers can be double or triple, as well as complex (consisting of one chemical compound includes several elements), mixed, which consist of a mixture of simple fertilizers, and complex mixed, which have several chemical elements are part of various chemical compounds.

The most common complex feedings:

nitroammophoska;
ammophos.

Features and norms of fertilizing

Among the huge variety of different fertilizers, not all are suitable for feeding fruit trees and shrubs. By applying fertilizing, gardeners pursue certain goals - to increase productivity, extend the fruiting period and increase resistance to diseases and pests.

Fruit trees

Each type of fruit crop requires compliance with certain norms of fertilizing, which is applied to the soil around the tree trunk to a depth of about two centimeters.

Peaches. For feeding, a mixture of potassium salt and superphosphate is used in a 1:2 ratio.

Did you know? The soil in French vineyards is considered precious, workers mustscrape it off your shoes to get it back.

Pears and apple trees. For feeding, a mixture of (200 g) and 300 g of magnesium and superphosphate is used. Manure must be added to the mixture of mineral fertilizers.

Plums, apricots and cherries. These trees receive the best nutrients from aqueous solutions that are prepared by dissolving 3 tablespoons of superphosphate and 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water. To fully provide the plant with nutrients for the winter, four buckets of solution are needed for each tree.

Berry bushes

For many shrubs, you can use the same fertilizer composition, consisting of 4-5 kilograms of compost, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate and 20-30 g of superphosphate (per adult bush). This mixture should be applied in its mature form, after it has settled for two weeks.

Black currant. Top dressing is applied shallowly under the bushes and dug up to 8-10 cm.

Raspberry. The mixture is applied with a tape under the bushes and covered with sand.

Gooseberry. In the case of this shrub, compost should be replaced with ammonium nitrate (10-15 g), since gooseberries do not tolerate acidic and waterlogged soils. The mixture is scattered in the root zone and the soil is hoeed no deeper than 8 centimeters.

Strawberry

The addition of phosphorus and potassium, a mixture of which can simply be sprinkled between the rows, will help to significantly improve the yield of this crop next season. It is prepared at the rate of: 1 square meter 30 g of phosphorus and 15 g of potassium should be added.

Among the organic fertilizers for fertilizing strawberries, you can use slurry prepared from 1 liter of manure and 8 liters of water. After a short infusion, the liquid is ready for use.

Video: how to use organic fertilizers in the garden Autumn feeding of the garden is a responsible undertaking that requires time and certain knowledge. Despite the fact that fruits and berries have already been collected, it is in the fall that the time comes to take care of the next season. Treat this responsibly - and the plants will thank you with high yields.

How to feed fruit trees: reviews

When feeding, the tree will not bear more color and will not bring more fruits to maturity.

But when watering in August-September, provided that there are a lot of apples and heat without rain, the harvest is much greater, because then the tree does not shed its harvest.

We had a mega-dry summer again, in August-September I poured SS from a hose under a tree at night 2 times a week, my neighbor’s grandfather did not fill it. His SS dropped everything at the end of August (but maybe because of the codling moth, and not just because of the heat, grandfather is lazy and doesn’t spray it), mine didn’t drop at all.

I’ll tell you - there is no worse thing than seeing Northern Sinap crumbling (the ground is not visible because of the apples) from carelessness at the end of August. Then, on the 20th (!!!) of September (!!!), I saw the grandfather walking around the tree and tearing the few remaining apples with a puller on a stick. I burst out laughing. Typical example, that if you plant the best Russian variety of apples for a fool (my late grandfather planted SS in 1992 for both himself and his lazy neighbor), the fool = lazy person will not be able to get a harvest.

I confess: for the first time in 25 years, this year I took pity on Northern Sinap and took out and dug up several wheelbarrows of rabbit manure under it - the tree will still be walking, since this fall there were no leaves visible from behind the apples.

By the way, regarding watering: I vowed to water young trees in the future: Ligol gave 1-1.5 meters of growth last summer from watering and... And not a single apple on all three trees.

Everyman

http://forum.vinograd.info/showpost.php?p=1380477&postcount=66

in the fall, fertilize with potassium fertilizers (minimum nitrogen). According to science, it was necessary in September. But now it’s not too late. I also overslept the correct deadlines, I’ll have fun this weekend.

Yulia_novy

https://www.stroimdom.com.ua/forum/showpost.php?p=2484603&postcount=5

If you applied fertilizers during planting, then it is enough to add phosphate and potassium fertilizers in the fall; this must be done before loosening the soil. For one square meter you need to pour 2-3 matches, or one matchbox of phosphate per square meter. In spring it is best to fertilize with urea. 1/3 part matchbox in April, before loosening the soil, the same amount in May during the period, the same amount in May, before the trees bloom, in order to improve the number of fruits setting and 1/3 of a matchbox in June during the period of active flowering.

http://agro-forum.net/threads/1329/#post-6115

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Every gardener knows: to get bountiful harvest, trees and shrubs need to be provided with proper care, one of the components of which is the application of fertilizers. Plants especially need additional spring feeding.

Why feed trees and shrubs in spring?

Trees continuously consume nutrients from the soil, so over time the soil becomes “poorer.” Because of this, the productivity of the garden decreases, and young plants develop worse.

Even if the soil was fertilized in the fall, this does not mean that it does not need to be fed in the spring. After all, with melted snow, many useful elements leave, including nitrogen.

It is in the spring, during the resumption of active plant growth, that the soil especially needs additional fertilizing.

Types of fertilizers and their effects

In spring, garden crops need to be fed with mineral and organic means.
Organic include:

Compost - rotted plant debris. Its addition promotes better absorption of minerals. It is not advisable to use poorly rotted compost; it may contain weed seeds.
Manure, bird droppings . Enriches the soil with essential elements, improves air and moisture permeability.
Slurry . To obtain it, mix manure and water 1:3 in a large container and leave to ferment. Before fertilizing the soil, 1 liter of the resulting slurry is mixed with a bucket of water.

Mineral fertilizers include:

Nitrogen (ammonium sulfate, urea, ammonium nitrate) . They promote rapid growth and have a positive effect on the quality and volume of the harvest. Sandy soils need such fertilizing more.
Phosphorus (superphosphate, phosphate rock) . They help strengthen and grow the root system. They are introduced into the soil and buried closer to the roots. Such fertilizers are not washed out of the soil and remain in it for a long time.
Potassium (potassium sulfate) . Increases cold resistance and drought tolerance of plants, helps fruit crops produce sugar. Potassium has a positive effect on the formation and growth of lateral shoots. In spring, it is especially necessary for young trees. But it is not recommended to use it in its pure form. It is better when it is part of mixtures, for example, potassium salt or potassium magnesium. Wood ash contains a lot of potassium. In peat or sandy soils potassium accumulates worse than in chernozems.
Microfertilizers(contain the most essential microelements for plants: boron, zinc, iron, manganese, sulfur, copper, manganese).

When to fertilize

First feeding fruit bushes and trees in the spring is carried out with nitrogen-containing preparations. Some gardeners are of the opinion that the best time for this is the period when the snow begins to actively melt. It is recommended to scatter nitrogen-containing soluble mixtures directly onto the snow in circles around the trunk. Seeping into the ground, melt water will dissolve nitrogen. Fertilizer should be scattered around the tree at least 50 cm, and preferably across the width of the entire crown.

It is not advisable to use this method when the layer of snow near the tree is too thick and the ground is still frozen. The mineral mixture will remain on the surface for a long time, and most of the nitrogen will disappear from it.

Most summer residents are of the opinion that in the spring, fertilizer should be applied to trees only when the plant has completely woken up from winter and begins to throw out buds.

When adding nitrogen preparations to the soil in early spring, it is important to follow the dosage. Excess nitrogen can cause fungal diseases.

The second feeding of the garden is usually carried out in April. It occurs during flowering. For normal growth and development of trees in the future, it is recommended to add potassium and phosphorus.

Experienced gardeners do not recommend adding both of these components at the same time. It is better to apply phosphorus in early April, and potassium later.
The third feeding of fruit trees and shrubs in the spring is carried out after their flowering using organic fertilizers. They are placed in special holes, dug up and mixed with soil.

Fertile soil does not need annual organic feeding, once every two years is enough for her. And poor soil needs to be replenished with organic matter annually, sometimes several times.

Foliar feeding

In the spring, you can fertilize the garden not only by enriching the soil, but also by foliar methods. A weak solution is prepared from the feeding mixture and the green crown is sprayed with it.

Leaves absorb substances well, the tree receives faster necessary elements. This method is considered an emergency aid for plants. It is often used to stimulate shoot growth or if the root system or trunk is damaged and cannot fully utilize nutrition from the soil.

For foliar feeding, you can use both organic matter and mineral mixtures. Spraying trees and bushes with microfertilizers has a good effect. For example, boron promotes more abundant flowering, zinc serves as a disease prevention, manganese increases the sugar content in fruits and increases yield.

To ensure that there is enough calcium in the fruits, fruit trees need to be sprayed in early spring. Bordeaux mixture(4%), at the same time this will serve as protection against diseases and insect attacks.
When foliar fertilizer is used, very weak concentrations of solutions are used so as not to cause burns to leaves and wood.

To spray the crowns of pear or apple trees, you can use a solution of manganese sulfate or zinc sulfate at the rate of 0.2 g per liter of water. If two microelements are used at once, their dosage is halved.
Stone fruits (cherry, plum, apricot, cherry plum) will grow and bear fruit better if in the spring they are treated with urea diluted at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters of water. Spraying is repeated a couple of times at intervals of a week.
The result will be better if you use this method alternating with classic root feeding. It is the soil that is able to retain the substances necessary for fruit crops longer.

Fertilizer rate

It is important to correctly determine the fertilizer rate for one tree. A solution that is too concentrated can burn the wood. And if there is not enough fertilizer, the plant will receive little nutrition. Therefore, it is necessary to adhere to the dosage and instructions for the drugs.

When calculating the amount of fertilizer for one tree, you need to take into account:

frequency and abundance of watering. If the plants receive enough moisture, then fertilizing can be introduced in slightly larger doses;
trimming time. After pruning, the dose of fertilizer is increased so that young shoots grow faster and better;
composition of fertilizers. If organic and mineral substances are simultaneously introduced into the soil in the spring, their concentration is halved.

Spring feeding of young trees

You should not fertilize young one-year-old seedlings. It is better to start fertilizing them from the second year after planting.

Young fruit trees are fed in the spring with both organic and mineral preparations.

Organic fertilizers (urea, manure) are diluted with water in the following proportion: 300 g of urea per 10 liters of water or 4 liters of liquid manure. One young tree should receive about 5 liters of liquid fertilizer. For a tree that has been growing for less than 5 years, it is enough to add about 20 kg of humus to the root zone.

Any liquid fertilizer is applied to moist soil, otherwise it can burn the roots of the plant.

In the first few years, the effect of applying fertilizers to trees is subtle. It becomes more pronounced as fruiting approaches.

Spring feeding of fruit-bearing trees

Apple

In spring, a fruit-bearing apple tree needs organic and mineral feeding.

An apple tree between 5 and 9 years old needs about 30 kg of humus; an apple tree over 9 years old needs at least 50 kg of fertilizer.

Slurry is diluted in a ratio of 1:5. A tree that has not reached 8 years old needs 30 liters of such feeding; a tree older than 8 years needs about 50 liters.

The application of mineral fertilizers has a positive effect on the apple tree: ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate, superphosphate, magnesium sulfate. Their rate is calculated according to the instructions in accordance with the age of the tree.

Pear

Spring feeding of pears is similar to apple feeding, but has some differences.
Humus is necessary for pears large quantities. It is mixed with the soil in the spring during digging. A three-year-old tree needs about 20 kg of humus, and every year its amount is increased by 10 kg. After 11 years, the trees are fed once every 2 years, adding 100 kg of fertilizer.
In the spring, the fruiting pear is sprayed with a weak urea solution. The first time at the end of the flowering period, the second time is repeated after 10-15 days.
Pear responds well to spring feeding mineral solutions: superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride.

Cherry

For trees up to 4-5 years old, humus is added every spring. Scatter it around the trunk, with a radius of about 0.5 m, in a layer of about 4 cm. For trees older than 5 years, one fertilizing with humus is enough for 3 years.
Urea and ammonium nitrate should be fed to trees in early spring and late May.

Plum, cherry plum

Humus for plums and cherry plums is added 10 kg each if the tree is under 6 years old and 20 kg each if the tree is older than 6 years old.
Plum prefers alkaline soil, so fluff lime or wood ash is often added to fertilizers for it.

Apricot

Apricots are fed several times throughout the spring. First, nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Then after flowering with organic matter. Most often, urea, saltpeter, slurry, and chicken droppings are used for this.

Spring feeding of shrubs

Early spring Shrubs are fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate are well suited for this. The preparations are applied when loosening the soil.

Together with nitrogen mixtures or a little later, you need to feed the plants with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

Gooseberry

Gooseberries need potassium preparations more than other shrubs. Also useful for him foliar feeding potassium sulfate solution, boric acid, manganese sulfate.
If the leaves of a young shrub turn yellow, it should be fed with ammonium nitrate (6-7 g per 5 liters of water).

Raspberry

In spring, raspberries are fed with liquid mineral mixtures. You can buy a ready-made mixture or prepare it yourself (10 liters of water - 10 g of potassium chloride, 40 g of superphosphate, 20 g of urea).
Every 3 years, the raspberries are fed with organic matter (0.5 buckets per 1 m²).

Currant

The first feeding of the bush with organic and nitrogen preparations is carried out in the spring before flowering. Then repeat after a couple of weeks. When the berries begin to set, the bush can be fed ready-made mixture"Berry" or "Berry Giant". This will improve the taste of the fruit and increase the content of vitamins in them.
At the end of spring, you can spray the bush with microfertilizers.

Top dressing garden crops- one of the important spring work in the garden. Thanks to it, plants receive the necessary nutrients. Their development and fruiting depend on this.

When caring for a young garden, good development and fruiting of fruit trees cannot be achieved without the systematic use of fertilizers, especially in areas of the non-chernozem belt.

For successful tree growth in young garden, accelerating their entry into fruiting time and creating conditions for obtaining high and regular yields in the future great value has application of fertilizers. The best results are shown by the combined application of organic and mineral fertilizers.

The use of organic fertilizers when caring for a young garden

Widely used in skin care young garden must get first organic fertilizers(manure, compost, peat, peat feces and others), which not only provide the nutrients necessary for trees, but also improve the soil structure, which is destroyed by digging and frequent loosening.

Manure is applied in the fall, when digging up the soil, having previously scattered it evenly on the surface of the tree trunk in an amount of 4-6 kilograms per 1 square meter. This will amount to 15-20 kilograms for one two- to three-year-old tree, 30-40 kilograms for a five- to six-year-old tree, and 50-70 kilograms for a seven-ten-year-old tree.

Good action Compost also has an effect on fruit trees. Compost is prepared from household waste in specially constructed heaps. Compost heaps are a must on every household. Tree leaves, fallen pine needles, and tops can be used to prepare compost. vegetable crops, weeds, rotten straw and chaff, soot, house waste, kitchen waste, road dust, etc.

The compost heap is made 1.5-2 meters wide (at the base), 1-1.5 meters high and of arbitrary length (depending on the amount of material). They lay it on a special cleared and compacted area. Tops, house waste and other household waste and weeds when placed in compost heap interlayered with soil. The soil layer should be 5-6 centimeters thick. To ensure that the compost is always moderately moist, it is watered from time to time with water or, even better, with slop or slurry. It is useful to add lime, ground limestone and ash to the compost.

Once or twice a summer (every two to three months), the compost heap is thoroughly shoveled and stacked again. Shovelling speeds up the decomposition of waste. When the compost turns into homogeneous mass, it can be used as fertilizer. The rates, timing and depth of application of compost are the same as for manure.

“Night gold” (feces) is also a valuable fertilizer when caring for a young garden. It is better to mix it with peat, to prepare the so-called peat feces. For this purpose, take fine, well-decomposed peat, lay it in a layer of 20 centimeters and water it generously with liquid feces. After watering, a second layer of the same thickness is laid on the first layer of peat and also watered, and this is done until the heap reaches a height of 1.5 meters. After this, it is covered with peat and left to decompose.

Peat feces can also be prepared directly in cesspools- restrooms. To do this, peat is poured into the pit every two to three days and mixed with the contents of the pit with a pole. Peat feces is a very strong fertilizer: its application rate is two to three times lower than the rate of manure.

In areas where there is no peat, compost, manure and even ordinary soil are used to prepare fecal fertilizers.

When caring for a young garden, you should also use bird droppings. It is applied at a rate of 100-150 grams per 1 square meter of tree trunk area. But it is better to give this fertilizer in the form of liquid fertilizer in the first half of summer.

A good fertilizer is stove ash, containing potassium, phosphorus and lime. Ash is added at approximately 100-150 grams per square meter (a glass of stove ash weighs about 125 grams). The use of ash gives particularly good results on soddy-podzolic soils of the non-chernozem zone, reducing their acidity. In this case, the ash application rates are increased by at least two to three times.

Pond, lake and river waste or decomposed waste from landfills can be used as fertilizer.

The use of mineral fertilizers for caring for a young garden

If there are mineral fertilizers, then you need to use them.

They are divided into nitrogen (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, montanium nitrate), phosphorus (superphosphate, tomasslag, phosphate rock) and potassium (potassium salt 30 and 40 percent and potassium chloride). Nitrogen mineral fertilizers have a good effect on tree growth in most areas. A complete mineral fertilizer, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, works better everywhere.

Mineral fertilizers Apply at the rate of approximately 8-10 grams of the active substance of each type of fertilizer per 1 square meter. For example, ammonium sulfate (ammonium sulfate) contains 20 percent nitrogen. Therefore, 40-50 grams of ammonium sulfate must be added per 1 square meter.

One glass contains from 150 grams (superphosphate, ammonium sulfate) to 250 grams (potassium salt) mineral fertilizers.

The amount of mineral fertilizers that must be applied to one tree, depending on its age and the size of the trunk circle, is given in the table.

Montana nitrate is added by 20 percent, and ammonium nitrate by 40 percent less than ammonium sulfate. Double superphosphate is added twice as much as usual.

Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, partly nitrogen fertilizers, are applied in the fall, before deep digging. These fertilizers are best applied in granular form. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can also be applied in liquid form in patches into wells made with scrap, 30-40 centimeters deep; Wells are made approximately two per 1 square meter.
It is better to apply the bulk of nitrogen fertilizers (about two-thirds) in the spring, during the first spring loosening.

Approximate amount of mineral fertilizers applied to one tree (in grams):

Diameter (width) near the trunk new circle (in meters)	Square near the trunk new circle (in sq. meters)	Ammonium sulfate			Superphosphate			Potassium salt 40 percent
		when fertilizing			when fertilizing			when fertilizing
		weak	average	\|strong	weak	average	strong	weak	average	\|strong
2 3 4 5	3 7 12 20	100 200 400 600	150 300 600 900	200 400 800 1200	150 300 550 850	225 450 800 1300	300 600 1 100 1700	50 100 200 300	75 150 300 450	100 200 400 600

When using mineral and organic fertilizers together, application rates are reduced by half of those indicated.
When mixing fertilizers, you must adhere to established rules. It is best to mix them just before adding them to the soil.

Feeding fruit trees caring for a young garden

Great value at at In the course of a young garden, fertilizing of fruit trees is widely used by leading gardeners.

For fertilizing, first of all, you need to use local organic fertilizers.: slurry, urine, fermented solutions of bird and cow droppings, etc. Slurry and animal urine for liquid feeding are diluted with 5 parts of water, and feces and bird droppings with 10-12 parts.

You can also feed fruit trees only with nitrogen or complete mineral fertilizer.

When feeding, mineral fertilizers can be applied in liquid or dry form.. In dry soil, the trunk circles are pre-watered with water before fertilizing. When making fractional deposits, the specified average rate distributed into parts according to the number of fertilizing: each time the corresponding part is added (half or a third of the norm). The first feeding is given in the spring, during bud break, the second - two or three weeks after the first, during the intensive growth of shoots (in the central regions - in June), and the third - two to three weeks after the second.

Considering that nitrogen fertilizers, if applied untimely, cause growth retardation, fertilizing with them should be carried out only during spring and the first half of summer or late autumn.

The garden should be fertilized annually on poor soils and once every two to three years on other soils. In the first year after planting, they limit themselves to mulching the tree trunk circles with manure, humus, compost, etc.

Podzolic soils, in addition, should also be limed. Lime or ground limestone is applied once every five to seven years at an average rate of 1.5 kilograms per 1 square meter. The best time applying lime is autumn.

Video: How and with what to fertilize fruit trees correctly

In this video, an expert will tell you how to fertilize fruit trees correctly and with what exactly.

Video: Apple orchard technology

When caring for a young orchard, it is necessary to ensure the survival rate of all planted fruit trees, to create conditions for good growth seedlings and construction correct crown tree, and also ensure the early entry of trees into the fruiting season.