A house always begins with a porch, this is its main entrance, this is its calling card, one might say. And, at the same time, the final chord of construction. The point is in the work done. In addition, he has a clean functional purpose- protection of the entrance from wind, rain, snow, so it should be beautiful, comfortable, and durable. Of course, the design should not contradict the design of the entire house. A powerful red brick structure will look strange wooden house with carved shutters, for example. And here is a wooden object attached to brick house can completely serve as its decoration. If the house is small, then the porch should not be made into a monument that outweighs the proportions of a private house. And most importantly: a house without this element has an unfinished appearance.
How to build a porch for a private house with your own hands
There are a lot of construction options and materials offered. Choose the one that suits you best, prepare everything you need and get to work.
Wooden
It is not difficult to assemble the structure of such a porch
The easiest wooden structure You can do it yourself, even if you don’t have any special skills in construction. First, let's choose a design.
There are three main types: simplified, built-in and attached porch. A simplified design is a platform and a canopy over the entrance. Let's consider the most common option: a platform, steps and a protective canopy, which is located above the door.
Porch option with a small terrace
Even for such a light and simple structure we will need. It will not be difficult at all, because for such wooden porch we can make a foundation from piles. We will impregnate the support beams with an antiseptic. Having calculated where the supports should be, we will dig holes under them to a depth of 80–90 cm. We immerse the supports in these holes strictly vertically, checking the level. At 30 cm, we first fill the hole with crushed stone, compact it tightly, then a layer of soil, and then concrete it.
You need to make a foundation for the porch
After the cement has completely dried, you need to level all the supports in height, make cuts for spikes, nests and other preparatory work.
Making steps
Now it's time to choose the string on which the steps will be located. It comes in two types: with embedded steps and with cut out ledges. Since the second option is simpler, we will do it. Let's select several thick ones for the bowstring and obliques. edged boards. The length must be chosen in accordance with the number of steps. The rules here are simple: quantity:
Obliques are needed so that the steps have additional internal supports. Using a construction square, mark the profile of the staircase on the first edged board. We cut off the excess and use the first board as a template for preparing the remaining parts.
The strings are attached to the lags using a tongue-and-groove connection, for which a transverse board with selected grooves must be nailed to the lags, and tenons must be cut at the ends of the ribs and bowstrings. After the bowstrings and obliques are secured to the logs, their lower ends must be installed on a reinforced and leveled platform. Now the frame of the future staircase for the porch is ready. It's time to lay the floor and steps. You should try to lay the boards for the floor of the site as tightly as possible so that cracks do not appear when they dry out. After the site is ready, it is necessary to install risers and treads, which are also connected according to the “tenon and groove” principle, like a riser with a bowstring: this will give the connections the very rigidity that is needed. Here, in fact, everything is ready.
If the porch stairs have more than three steps, it is worth making a railing.
Step-by-step installation steps
Concrete
Concrete porch
We calculate materials. The volume of concrete required for pouring depends on the width and height of the structure, as well as the number of steps. If we make concrete ourselves, we must remember that per 1 cubic meter. m of concrete is 340 kg of concrete, 1.05 cubic meters. m of sand and 0.86 cubic meters. m of crushed stone. It is also necessary to calculate the necessary waterproofing and fittings. If the frame is reinforced, then each step requires 2 bars of reinforcement.
The porch has a concrete base
We are making a foundation for the future porch. In the place where we will set up the object, we need to dig a small pit with a depth of 30–40 centimeters. We pour a 10 cm layer of gravel on the bottom and compact it thoroughly, a layer of sand on top, and then moisten it so that the sand completely fills all the spaces between the crushed stone.
We make a formwork frame. We will install board formwork on the sides. You can use plywood or chipboard for formwork. The main thing is that the formwork should follow the shape of the steps. We strengthen the formwork with pegs and spacers. The formwork must be leveled in height and level. We cut pieces of boards equal to the length and width of the risers and nail them to the formwork itself. All formwork must be treated from the inside with a lubricant so that the concrete does not stick to the wood. Roofing material must be laid down to waterproof the concrete.
Step-by-step steps for building a concrete staircase
Please note: the steps of the stairs must be made with a slight slope so that water flows freely from them.
We reinforce the formwork. This is necessary to ensure that the concreted areas have a rigid structure. It is better not to skimp on reinforcement when building a concrete structure. For a medium-sized porch, approximately 150 meters of reinforcing bars will be needed. In order to be able to make a canopy and railings in the future, it is necessary to leave outlets from the corner or pipes on each side.
Preparing the harness
We are concreting. Prepared concrete mortar put in formwork. You need to start from the bottom step, evenly distributing the solution and constantly compacting it. Under no circumstances should empty spaces be left. After all the formwork is filled, we level the surface and now we need to let the structure dry for about a week. After this, you can remove the formwork and start finishing this object.
Staircase with forged elements
Metal with forged elements
A metal staircase can decorate both a brick and a wooden house. When starting to build a metal porch, you should also first make a sketch. It makes it easier to calculate the quantity required material and avoid making mistakes when installing parts.
Simple staircase with forging elements
Let's decide on the size of the stairs. Everything needs to be calculated so that two people can easily walk on it, and the steps are convenient for going up and down.
- the width of the stairs must be at least 1 meter;
- the number of steps is odd;
- stairs - from 26˚ to 45˚;
- the height of the steps should be from 12 to 20 cm;
- the width of each step is not less than 25 cm;
- the overhang of one step over another should be about 30 mm.
Just like under any other, you need to lay it under a metal porch.
Metal structure consists of three elements: the staircase itself, the railing to it and the canopy; the staircase is usually made from channels.
Arrangement of the entrance to the house
Let's consider one of the design options for a metal staircase, which we will make ourselves. Let's prepare two channels equal in length to the future staircase. We place them the width of the future staircase, say, 1 meter from each other. Now you need to mark and cut the corner to the size of the step, not forgetting to make an increase for the weld seam. We weld one end along the office to the channel. Then we take the next cut piece of the corner and weld it along the edge to the previous corner, then to the channel. So gradually weld all the corners.
Installation of the base of a metal staircase
Now you can connect the L-shaped elements to each other with an equal angle. Please note that the bottom of each step is connected by a corner with a shelf facing outwards. You can fill the steps with any suitable material: wood, porcelain stoneware, chipboard, plywood. fasten better with self-tapping screws and silicone glue.
Entrance staircase with canopy or closed
For such a porch, the foundation is especially important. Of course, it is best if it is planned together with the entire house. But there are often cases when it is attached to an already existing house, in this case we call it an “extension”.
Seating area near the entrance to the house
Closed entrance to the house
One way or another, the extension is a fundamental structure. Therefore, having calculated the parameters of the glazed porch area, we pour the foundation for it. Of course, a glazed extension is not for permanent residence with heavy furniture. Therefore, the foundation can be made of piles. After the foundation is prepared, all the piping is done, the concrete is completely dry, the walls can be laid. We choose the material so that it does not contradict the design of the house. Of course, this is a frame building. The frame can be made from wooden beams, from metal profile. Some owners, wanting to make the porch more substantial, lay out such a porch from brick or timber. If we talk about frame construction, it is certainly cheaper and much easier to install.
Frame extensions come in two types: frame-panel and frame-frame. In the first case, the panels are already ready, you just need to take the time to assemble them; in the second, the fitting is done on site.
The main work is done. Now we need to work on the glazing and the door. For glazing we use wooden or plastic. We order the door with glass and according to the verified dimensions. We choose the stairs from all possible options.
The glazed porch-veranda is very convenient because in the summer you can sit here and drink tea in bad weather, and in the winter you don’t have to drag snow with you when you enter the house.
Porch construction diagram
The steps should be 30 cm long and 16 cm high, but do not forget that when making the first step, it is necessary to take into account the addition of sand and tiles. Because of this, the first stage is always slightly higher than the rest.
Brickwork during the construction of a porch
Very often, cinder blocks remain after construction. They can be laid in the foundation: it will be stronger, and we can recycle the remains of cinder concrete.
We lay out the porch area from brick. At the same time we lay and side wall, which can be immediately overlaid facing material- brick, for example. We gradually form the steps using backfill and face bricks. We will lay out two rows of backing bricks in the middle, and lay out the outer part with facing bricks.
So, we are gradually forming the remaining steps. Do not forget to treat the brick with a special agent against the appearance of salt stains. After the masonry is completed, we complete the construction or finishing brick. We use special glue for fastening. We complete the construction by installing a canopy.
Video: building a brick porch
Set up a small flower garden nearby, place pots or flowerpots with flowers. Add some quirky little touches to complete the look.
The porch and staircase at the entrance to the cottage are integral elements of any country house. Moreover, the correct arrangement of the entrance area significantly affects the overall perception of the “picture” of the building. Despite all the beauty of the facade and roofing, the “wrong” entrance to the house will destroy all harmony and will look like an alien element. When constructing an entrance group, special requirements are imposed on its design and choice of materials. After all, the porch and external staircase are exposed to increased exposure to adverse weather conditions.
No homeowner wants to deal with the annual repair of a porch that has moved away from the house, or climb an uncomfortable staircase with tiles flying off the steps. Therefore, in this article, based on the practical experience of FORUMHOUSE users, we will answer the following questions:
- How to avoid mistakes when building a foundation for a porch.
- How to repair a crumbling porch and is it worth it?
- How to calculate optimal width porch.
- How to make a comfortable entrance staircase.
- How to make a beautiful porch from burnt timber.
Foundation: mistakes and solutions
The most important mistake of any novice developer when building a porch is to treat the choice of foundation type as something simple and frivolous, guided by the principle “it will do.” As a result, the entrance area turns into a real one headache. As soon as prolonged downpours pass, or spring arrives, the following picture can be observed in the villages - homeowners begin repairs.
Depending on the severity and neglect of the “disease”, treatment consists of either cosmetic procedures - covering up cracks, gluing “shot” tiles, or more serious “operations”. A porch that has “moved away” from the house or is sagging is jacked up, the problematic foundation is dismantled and they are racking their brains over how to make sure this does not happen again in the future.
An incorrectly made porch can drag down the façade finish, the roof (if the supports of the rafter system rest on it), lead to deformation of the roofing, etc. Conclusion: do everything right at once, even at the stage of building a house, and not hope for chance.
Potainoi FORUMHOUSE Member
I conceived the idea of building a small cottage from aerated concrete. The foundation has already been poured - a regular strip 1.2 m high, without a porch, because... At first, the foundation was built for another project. Now I’m thinking about how to “tie” the open porch to the house and avoid mistakes. The problem is that part of the roof will rest on the porch through the pillars - the so-called. "cuckoo".
Let us add that the soil on the user’s site is as follows:
- chernozem - 0.7 m;
- then loam - 0.3 m;
- further clay - 1-1.3 m.
Moreover, the clay is of such density that, according to Potainoi, You can only chop it with an axe. Level groundwater short. Over the past few winters, the soil has frozen to no more than 0.6 m, although the actual freezing depth in the area of residence is greater. Important: when calculating the depth of the foundation, one must rely on tabular data of the climatic zone (the depth of soil freezing in a harsh winter with little snow, which can happen once every 15-20 years). Based on these figures, the user suggested discussing the following solutions for foundation construction on the portal:
- Dig a trench and fill strip foundation under entrance group to the freezing depth.
- Pour concrete piles with a “heel” below the freezing depth and support the “cuckoo” on these pillars.
- Screw in the screw piles.
- Support the “cuckoo” on diagonal beams, resting them against the wall or base, and “untie” the porch from the roof and the house.
The following advice followed.
Roger40 FORUMHOUSE Member
I would pour the foundation under the porch to the same depth as the main one, and tie them together with a series of expansion joints, which will provide them with some movement. I encountered a similar problem several years ago - the columnar foundation (poured below the freezing depth) along with the porch “moved away” from the house, and the overall roof was torn.
A separate foundation poured below the freezing depth is not a panacea for porch construction. After all. it is subject to tangential forces of frost heaving, which cannot be balanced by the load/weight from the overlying lightweight structure.
The foundation for a porch (as well as for a house) should be calculated based on the type of soil, its bearing capacity, susceptibility to heaving and groundwater levels. Therefore, ideally this the foundation is erected as a single/common structure with the main foundation for the house. Or if it construction was left “for later”, the foundation under the porch must be “untied” with a foundation for a cottage.
In the case described above, the matter was complicated by the fact that the porch takes on the load from the rafter system. With some movement of the untied foundations, the roof may tear.
Vit1959 Moderator FORUMHOUSE
Two different foundations will live their own “life”. How different it is is difficult to say. What will happen to them and to the roof of the house cannot be guaranteed. I think it's better for Potainoi to make a "cuckoo" on external cantilever beams (the next beam is longer than the previous one), so that the roof is on its own, and the foundation of the porch is on its own.
Potainoi
I will think about how to make outrigger beams. You just need to calculate all the fastening points and figure out the design.
The foundation for the porch should be considered as a whole, as a single system working in conjunction with the house.
Repair or break
Sometimes a problematic porch can be inherited. And then the homeowner, in addition to the purchased house, receives a “time bomb”, which entails a number of problems. This is exactly the situation faced by a portal user with the nickname dvauha2, when I bought a ready-made cottage.
dvauha2 FORUMHOUSE Member
I bought a house. The cottage has an open stone porch without a canopy. It is not connected to the foundation of the house. The problem is that it is gradually being destroyed. Water flows into the foamed seam between the porch and the house and runs under the foundation. The top step is falling apart. Now I am limited in finances, and I would not like to deal with radical alterations. I’m thinking of making a canopy to prevent water from getting onto the problem unit and sealing the gap. Or does the stingy person pay twice, and everything has to be demolished and the porch rebuilt?
Users of the portal actively participated in the discussion of the situation and suggested different solutions. Portal member with nickname Detonator, According to him, he encountered a similar problem. The porch of his house had no canopy. Rotted over time wooden railings. Then the tiles on the steps flew off. They did not redo the foundation. They erected a canopy and repaired the steps.
Two years later, the two lower steps of the porch “left”. Then they decided to apply a radical “treatment” of the foundation - they laid a steel screed on both sides below (a channel or corner, screwing it to the concrete, the alteration took place without the participation of Detonator) and covered everything with tiles.
Detonator FORUMHOUSE Member
The winter passed without problems, let's see what happens next.
It’s cheaper to just make a normal porch right away than to deal with expensive alterations.
Returning to the situation dvauh2. On the advice of users, he slightly disassembled the porch from above from one corner to understand its design. It turned out the following: under the screed - the upper part of the slab, it is filled uncompacted sand, which gradually pours into the gap between the porch and the house.
The lower part of the step is covered with asphalt chips and now represents a monolithic base for the second step.
There is no insulated blind area. As a result, the porch “walks” and the gap widens.
dvauha2
I’m racking my brains about how to properly connect the house and the porch, and how best to seal this gap.
Dgusepe Moderator FORUMHOUSE
I think the gap should not be foamed, because... any filling can act like a wedge, and when the soil heaves, the porch will “float away” again. The gap can simply be covered with a decorative cover.
As a result dvauha2 I decided not to constantly repair the problematic porch, but to demolish it and build a new one of high quality. Moreover, it turned out that the brick at the steps was cracked, and the sand that was poured inside the entire structure was not compacted at all. Under the vestibule slab, the sand was also not compacted, and after the structure was broken, it began to spill out, and the slab ended up hanging in the air.
dvauha2
So far I have made a temporary staircase to the house from a board with a section of 5x15 cm. I decided that I would make a normal porch with a small vestibule.
How to calculate the entrance staircase, the optimal width of the porch and avoid “shooting” decorative tiles
When erecting an open porch, you should remember that even if there is a canopy, it is still susceptible to negative influence snow, rain and wind. This speeds up its wear. Therefore, when choosing materials for construction, you need to give preference to those that have a long service life. But sometimes, having chosen high-quality ceramic tiles or stone for cladding the steps and landing, the developer is faced with an unpleasant phenomenon - the so-called. "shooting". The tiles are constantly falling off or cracking.
Most often this is blamed on bad glue, weather, finishers, etc., forgetting about one possible reason. The following happens - a porch and stairs are erected (we are talking about a stone porch and concrete stairs). The tiles are glued to the steps, but... the builders “forgot” to make waterproofing that would cut off the wet soil from concrete base; moisture coming from the ground gradually saturates the concrete. Because ceramic tile steam and waterproof, moisture has nowhere to escape. It accumulates at the base-tile interface. At subzero temperatures, water freezes, increases in volume, and the finishing coating flies off from the base.
To prevent this from happening, reliable waterproofing is done at the border between the prepared and compacted base and the concrete porch/staircase.
In addition to a competent design, do not forget about the ease of use. One of the most frequently asked questions: what size to make the entrance platform. The depth can be calculated by multiplying the door width by 1.5. With width door leaf 1 meter the depth of the site must be at least 1.5 m.
This principle will help avoid a situation where open door, standing on the upper platform, a person, in order to enter the house, is forced to go down one step. If you save on the size of the site and its depth, then lifting large items into the house - furniture, engineering equipment. Even carrying a couple of bulky bags from the grocery store will become inconvenient. The platform itself can be square with equal sides. With a door width of 1 meter, the upper platform is 1.5x1.5 m.
Moreover, the height of the porch is calculated so that the top of the platform is lower door threshold about 5 cm. This way snow and water will not get into the house. To build a convenient entrance staircase, as a guide, you can be guided by the following principles:
- We immediately figure out how many sides the staircase goes on - one, two or three.
- The optimal angle of inclination (ascent) of the stairs is maintained within 30-45 degrees. Stairs with an inclination of more than 45 degrees are difficult to climb. A staircase with an inclination angle of less than 30 degrees turns out flat and requires more space.
- The width of the tread is within 25-30 cm. The height of the rise of the step is 15-20 cm.
Practice shows that the optimal comfortable height for raising a step is within 15-17 cm. The width of the tread is about 30 cm. The offset of the step is no more than 3 cm.
It is better if the number of steps is odd, because It is more convenient to start and finish climbing stairs with the same foot. The number of steps can be calculated by dividing the estimated height of the structure by the height of the step. Knowing the expected number of steps and the width of the tread, you can calculate the length of the flight of stairs.
Porch and staircase made of burnt timber
At the end of the article, we will give an example of a creative approach to arranging a beautiful open porch and stairs, which I built from burnt hardwood timber Green0568.
The entrance group was made using timber with a cross-section of 20x15 cm.
The beams are fastened together with wood grouse using polyurethane glue. Through one wood grouse the dowels are hammered. Under the fourth step in the middle there is a jack, under the third there are two jacks, which are placed at the edges with an indentation.
Summarizing
So that when building a porch and entrance staircase To obtain a high-quality result, knowledge and practical experience are required. The entrance area can be either simple - made of boards or welded from corners and channels, or more complex - stone - with monolithic staircase and forged elements. But it all starts with calculation and comparison of different options.
You can get ideas for construction, ask a question or find the optimal design on our portal. FORUMHOUSE has collected dozens of options for arranging the entrance area. Read, and... We also recommend articles about and. The video shows the addition of a wooden two-story porch and balcony to a log house.
52066 0
The porch must be attached to the house if the height of the basement of the foundation does not allow you to immediately leave the room. Through choice optimal option A porch made of wood not only increases the comfort of using the building, but also improves its appearance.
There are a huge number of design options, but there are only two architectural options.
We'll tell you step by step instructions creation of both types, indicating features and secrets construction work. But first we should consider General requirements to all elements of the porch.
Requirements of building codes and regulations for structures
- Site requirements.
Can be located on separate vertical supports or fixed to one side façade wall. There is one recommendation regarding the size - the width should allow at least two people to separate without any problems, in most cases 1.5 meters is enough. In addition, the platform must allow the door to be opened by a person entering from outside.
There is one limitation in height - the level of the platform must be three to five centimeters below the level of the bottom plane of the doors. This is explained by the fact that the porch in winter period time will rise, if you do not make a gap, then the doors may jam. Opening entrance doors for safety reasons, it must be outward, and the difference in height eliminates the negative consequences of swelling of the earth during freezing/unfreezing.
- Requirements for steps.
The width of the staircase is at least a meter, the height is approximately 16–18 cm, the length of the steps is 25–32 cm. How to calculate the parameters of the steps? For example, the height of the platform is 120 cm, divide this value by 18 cm and get 120:18 = 6.66. We round to the nearest whole number, in the end we should have 7 steps. The distance between them is 120:7 = 17.14 cm. You can make six steps 17 cm high, and the last or first 17 + (0.14 × 6) = 17.8 cm. This makes it much easier to make porch parts. If you have chosen the length and width of the steps to be 30 cm, then the lower support point of the stairs should be at a distance of 7 × 30 cm = 210 cm from the edge of the platform. That's all the calculations, simple and accessible, there is no need to study complex formulas.
Select only high-quality lumber for making a porch; avoid damage from pests, diseases, rotten knots and through cracks. Only moisture-resistant species: coniferous or hard trees. It is also not recommended to use boards with significant natural developmental defects.
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Construction boards
It is advisable to treat the materials several times with antiseptics.
Be sure to use reliable waterproofing for all elements with concrete surfaces.
Take all possible measures to prevent water from accumulating on steps and landings. You can make them with a slight slope or leave gaps of 2–3 mm between individual boards.
For the final paint coating, use only high-quality paints. They must be wear-resistant, resistant to moisture and harsh ultraviolet radiation. Another requirement is that when painting surfaces, strictly follow the manufacturers’ recommendations; do not try to simplify the technology by skipping some steps. Remember that no wooden structures in a house operating in such difficult conditions. It is very difficult to restore the original appearance of the paint; you will have to completely remove the old coating. Such work requires a lot of effort and time, and even completely getting rid of traces old paint rarely succeeds.
Foundation requirements
A wooden porch is placed on a separate foundation; there is no need to tie it to the existing ribbon under the house. Two types of foundations can be used for the structure: columnar or poured reinforced tile. Both are equivalent in load-bearing characteristics and performance indicators.
The main task of porch foundations is to keep the weight light. As for swelling, it is not economically feasible to combat this phenomenon. We have already said above that in order to eliminate negative consequences, the porch area is located below the plane of door opening. A columnar foundation will cost a little less, but there are more problems with it during installation. It is necessary to maintain the horizontal plane of all columns, after the concrete has hardened, adjust the bearing surface according to the water level, make formwork, etc.
If possible, it is better to pour a reinforced concrete slab approximately 5–10 cm thick. The slab, among other things, will prevent plants from growing under the porch. You will have to constantly fight them, and getting to them is difficult due to the small height of the structure.
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Concrete mixers
Step-by-step instructions for building a log porch
The most durable and strong design gives the house an original and solid look. You can make canopies from logs over the porch, enclose the area with railings with carved or turned balusters, and use other decorative elements in a rustic style.
To make such a porch, you will need not only materials, but also the ability to work with an ax, chisel holes, chop logs for locking, etc. The design of a chopped porch must prevent the accumulation of moisture in the internal joints, otherwise the likelihood of putrefactive processes increases sharply. Therefore, do not use the lower bowl when building a porch; the bowl should always lie upside down on the logs being connected. If it is difficult to chop the bowl, then make joints in the okhryap, they are much easier when chopping and allow you to use a chainsaw. Best tree for a wooden porch - larch or oak, but you can also use cheap conifers.
Step 1. Making a concrete base.
We chose the concrete slab option. Use pegs to mark the area according to the estimated dimensions of the porch, check the angles; if two diagonals have the same length, then the angles are 90°.
The depth of the hole for the slabs is within 30–40 cm; for backfilling, use a sand and gravel mixture. Level and compact each layer approximately 10 cm thick. It is recommended to water it with water before compacting.
For concrete, you can take 3-4 buckets per bucket of cement sand and gravel mixture, the thickness of the slab is approximately 5–10 cm, be sure to use construction reinforcement of a periodic profile Ø 5–8 mm. To reduce the amount of moisture penetrating from the soil into the concrete, place two layers of roofing felt or other waterproofing material on the backfill. Prepare formwork from edged boards up to 10 cm wide and install it in place under the level.
Important. The upper ribs of the formwork boards serve as guides while leveling the concrete. To drain water, install formwork with a slope of approximately 2–3 cm from the foundation of the house.
Secure the position of the formwork with wooden or metal stops, driving them flush with the boards so that they do not interfere while leveling the concrete. Pour half the thickness of concrete into the formwork, level it and place the reinforcement, pour the second layer and level the top surface with an even block. Compact the mixture well and remove any air pockets. Leave the structure for 7–10 days to harden.
Level the mixture with a shovel and a rule
While the slab is gaining strength, you can begin preparing the lumber.
Step 2. Making blanks for the stairs and platform.
To work, you need to have logs with a diameter of at least 30 cm (the width of the step).
In this way, blocks are prepared both for the steps and for the platform.
Step 3. Adjust all the blocks for the steps to the same width.
We have already mentioned that the width of the steps can vary from 25 cm to 32 cm. Select the specific size taking into account the thickness of the logs in such a way as to reduce the amount of waste. Draw cut lines on the front surface of the block, cut off the excess material with a saw or axe, and align the cut. To prevent subsequent chipping, chamfer slightly. In the same way, finish all the blanks for the platform and steps.
Step 4. Preparing the lower (side) logs.
The first porch crown consists of two side bottom logs, a step and a capping log. All logs must be sanded and the dark top layer removed with a scraper.
Place them on a concrete slab and measure out the same height. At the end, draw a horizontal bevel line, transfer the dimensions to side surfaces in the same way as was done during the manufacture of the blocks. Use a saw or ax to remove excess wood and level the surfaces.
Practical advice. Due to the fact that the concrete slab has a slope, mark the logs with the thick end outward. This will reduce the amount of wood removed during leveling.
To avoid mixing up the parts when assembling the porch, number them or otherwise mark them. To make the webbing easier, make small slits at a distance of approximately 2–3 cm.
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Chainsaw
Step 5. Marking the first crown.
Place the first step piece on the lower logs, align it in width, and measure the overall height. Due to the fact that we assumed the distance from the concrete to the platform of the first step to be 30 cm, measure the actual height assembled workpieces. The difference in values gives us the depth of the castle. In the same way, mark the fixing log on the other side of the lining logs. Mark the width and position of the plane of the bowl. We have already mentioned that we choose the simplest option for connection.
Step 6. Making the bowl.
First, use a saw to cut along the lines to the depth of the bowl, then make several cuts in the middle. There is no need to cut to the full depth; leave a few millimeters to prevent mistakes. In the future, if necessary, the excess thickness will be removed. Make the same bowls on the lower logs.
Important. Under the lower logs, be sure to use pads made of any materials that do not absorb moisture. Cut them to size, drill holes and attach them to the bottom plane of the lining logs with screws or nails. The distance between the linings is approximately 40–50 cm.
Step 7. Making the second crown.
Lay the logs and measure how much you need to remove their ends so that the plane is horizontal. If there are differences of a few centimeters, no problem. This position will improve the flow of water from the steps. Using the method described above, mark the position of the bowls, mark the height of the excess logs, which will subsequently have to be removed. Cut a longitudinal groove and a bowl, install the side logs in place; there is no need to put anything in the groove. Check their position; if the upper crown is loose, then the cause of this phenomenon should be found and eliminated.
We check the horizontalness of each log
Step 8. Measuring and cutting out the second stage bowl.
Don't forget to incline. The protrusion of the second step above the ends of the logs should not exceed 2–3 cm, otherwise the effective width of the stairs will be significantly reduced. Do not forget that all bowls should be positioned bottom up, this means that it is not done in the lower longitudinal logs. Due to this technique, water does not accumulate in the recesses, the wood dries quickly and is not subject to putrefactive processes.
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Construction levels
To prevent the steps from moving, fasten them with long wood screws, two on each side. For screws, you first need to drill holes with a diameter 1–2 mm less than the diameter of the metal body. Make the heads of the hardware flush with the surface of the step.
Before final fixation, check the position of the steps again, including the slope. Control the quality of the hew with a level. There is no need to achieve a perfectly flat surface, the main thing is that the elements are stable. Small gaps speed up the removal of moisture, which has a positive influence on the condition of the wood. Use the same technology to make and install all the crowns. The quantity depends on the size of the porch. At the last crown, logs are laid under the platform. The last crown is fixed to the penultimate one with dowels, the process is the same as during the construction of a log house.
Practical advice. To make it easier to make a bowl in the blocks of the platform, stitch the logs of the upper crown along the same width. This will allow you not to measure each bowl separately, but to make it the same for all elements.
Level the upper surface of the platform with a plane. At the same time, finally trim the ends of the logs of the platform and steps. Stretch the thread between the outer ones, make marks and saw off the protruding end parts with a saw.
Step 9. Installation of railings.
For the racks you can use turned balusters, the height is approximately 1 meter. To securely attach the racks to the steps, you need to make a spike, measurements approximately 5x5 cm. The spike is inserted into the hole in the steps and logs of the platform.
Important. The tenon should fit into the groove with force; do not rush to immediately adjust all the balusters to the same size. Exact adjustment is done for each separately.
The railings can be attached to the balusters with metal squares, self-tapping screws, or you can also make a tongue/groove connection. The specific fixation option depends on the shape of the railings and balusters. Spikes are much easier to make on a circular saw. Mark the start and end lines of the tenon on the machine table; this will speed up the work and eliminate mistakes. Using an ax, remove the sawn sections and slightly level the surfaces of the tenons.
How to choose holes for tenons in steps?
- Mark the position of the holes. Make marks under a stretched rope; they should all lie strictly along the same line.
- Drill holes in the steps, in the corners with a small diameter drill (about Ø 20 mm), and drill in the middle with a large drill. Make sure that the tool is in a vertical position, otherwise big problems will arise. The defect will have to be corrected; during corrections, the size of the hole will inevitably increase. To prevent the balusters from wobbling, you need to place wooden wedges, but over time they dry out and the strength of the connection is compromised.
- Use a chisel to make holes. This work is difficult and long, but do not despair. The first hole will take a lot of time, then experience will appear and the work will progress much faster. To prevent the bottom of the step from falling under the hole during chiselling, remove it and place it so that the place under the hole rests against flat board. To control the size of the holes, you can make a template with the sizes of the tenons. It can be used to check not only linear dimensions, but also verticality.
Step 10. Installation of racks.
The fashion for non-standard architectural forms is returning. And every home owner wants to give his mansion unusualness and originality. This can be done by building a porch. This architectural element will add elegance to the entrance group of the house and enliven general form buildings, and will also serve as protection from snow and rain.
But what type of extension should you choose so that it fits harmoniously into the exterior of the mansion? We will look at what size, shape, configuration, type and style a porch can be in this article. And photos from our gallery will clearly demonstrate the most worthy options for the porch of a country house.
The design and purpose of the porch
The veranda for the home has become such a common household item that few people think about its role. The main purpose of the extension is to make visiting the home more comfortable for a person.
Since the porch is the center of the building’s facade, it needs to be made as attractive as possible. It is often erected after the construction of the house, so care should be taken to ensure that it matches the style of the mansion. For this purpose, a project for the porch of a country house is being drawn up.
On a note: The more harmonious the overall picture is, the more worthy the veranda itself will look.
Photo of the front porch of a private house - classic design
Types of extensions
Modern types of porches for the home are elegant and comfortable structures, built from modern building materials, which decorate the entrance to the home, making it original and functional. Extensions can be classified into several categories.
Size
The first thing to consider when drawing up a porch project for country and village houses, cottages, small dachas- their size. It is determined by the dimensions of the mansion, as well as building regulations (minimum width is 150 cm, length - 180 cm). For the little one suitable for home a small porch of a simple configuration, matching it in style and proportions.
Small extension with neat semicircular steps
A medium-sized concrete structure will fit a standard house. Its height is selected individually, based on the dimensions of the mansion.
Openwork metal forged porch
A luxurious mansion has a large porch. It can be low (with a staircase of only 1-3 steps) and located along the entire length of the wall of the house.
A large terrace for a wooden house is a great place to relax
Advice: Having calculated the optimal dimensions of the extension, they are included in the construction plan.If the building is located on uneven terrain, for convenient access to it, a porch of the house with a high base is built. Since the platform is located at a certain height, a staircase with a large number of steps should lead to it, equipped with railings for safe walking along it.
High entrance porch of a private house, photo
On a high porch, rounded columns will not be out of place. These will serve as supports to support the canopy over the outer door.
Advice: with help design techniques columns can be turned into decorative elements, decorating the front entrance of the house, giving it style and respectability.
High front porch made of concrete with columns
Form
If we regard this design from an aesthetic point of view, it is almost impossible to find two identical porches. Today you can find verandas of various shapes:
- rectangular;
- square;
- trapezoidal;
- semicircular;
- round;
- asymmetrical.
Rectangular and square views of the porch of a private house, photo
The semicircular porch looks unusual and unique. With this simple technique, a mansion can be made more original. The photo below shows a semicircular porch to a brick house.
On a note: It is not at all necessary that the entire structure has the shape of a circle - a rounded canopy or steps with rounded edges is enough.
Add spice to the architecture of the cottage by adding a semicircular porch, photo
A non-standard solution would also be corner design. A round porch located on the corner of a rectangular house looks very impressive.
Lateral round design focuses attention on the exterior of the building
A corner street extension can be not only round, but also trapezoidal or triangular in shape. The complex geometry of the structure should not be dissonant with the main structure, but create a single concept with it.
An example of an original corner porch of a private house, photo
Placement in relation to the house
Porches can be located differently in relation to the mansion. This way you can build an attached structure - a horizontal platform with steps located in front of the entrance to the house.
Attached design for a summer house with a semicircular canopy
The built-in porch, which has a common roof with the house, looks elegant. Such a combined extension should create a single architectural ensemble with the mansion and the adjacent plot.
Cozy internal veranda can be used as a place to relax
Materials
When developing a porch design, you can choose any materials that match the style of the house, from traditional ones (wood and natural stone) to more modern ones (concrete, metal, brick).
Type
In construction, there are several structural types of porches. An open structure is an extension with a small platform, not equipped with a canopy or railings. This design is used in places that are used mainly in the summer (for example, in the country).
Advice: Open-type structures should not be built in areas where precipitation occurs frequently.
Open porch with semicircular granite steps
A structure equipped with a roof or canopy is a covered structure. It has no walls, only railings that protect the extension from the street.
Outdoor covered structure
A structure with walls or glass panels and a canopy is called enclosed. The room is a full-fledged veranda, can have lighting and heating and be used as a gazebo.
Original glass enclosed porch brick house, photo
A type of closed extension is a porch with a vestibule. This is a small-area design that provides a comfortable microclimate in the home.
On a note: vestibule - a transition zone on the border with the street, protecting housing from the cold.
Photo of a closed porch to a house like a vestibule
A popular type of extension is a porch-veranda. It is a place for leisure and recreation, and can be closed or open.
Enclosed polycarbonate porch - modern design
A harmonious addition to a cottage made of natural wood will wooden veranda. And if the extension is closed, it will only improve the thermal insulation of the mansion.
Small closed porch of a wooden house, photo
If the mansion has more than one floor, then you can connect the porch to the balcony. In this case, the connecting element can be columns. In the same way, you can combine the platform with a bay window - the protruding part of the second floor.
Porch with bay window under the balcony
A spacious porch-terrace can be used as a place to relax. The large area can accommodate a table, chairs and even sun loungers.
An open terrace with a porch is located under a common roof with the house
An option for a non-traditional design design is a mini gazebo on the terrace. With the help of plants and comfortable furniture, the structure can be made more comfortable.
Round porch-gazebo
Extensions may differ not only in purpose and design, but also in the design of the staircase. A staircase with one flight is considered standard, but there are other varieties.
Staircase with flight on two sides
Exit to the site can even be organized from three sides, and the staircase itself can be semicircular or complex geometric in shape.
Note: the canopy and railings not only perform practical functions, but also serve as elements of decoration and design of the entrance group of the mansion.
Beautiful staircase built in a semicircle
Stylistics
In order for the extension to harmonize with the house, it is better to think through its design in advance. Thus, a stone structure can be designed in the style of a medieval fortress. To design it can be used facing stone, forging.
Play with contrasts - decorate the stone structure with fresh flowers
Adherents of strict lines and symmetry will like classic design European-style extensions. Its components are glass door, openwork lattice, many colors.
An extension created in the best European traditions
How to make a veranda for a wooden Finnish house? Project of a porch of a wooden house in Scandinavian style provides a symmetrical facade with a porch of simple design (with a canopy and stairs). And when designing and finishing it, they try to preserve the texture of natural wood.
Neat extension in Finnish style
Porch village house made of wood can also be decorated in the Russian style. For this, logs and carved parts are used.
Russian style - types of porch of a wooden house, photo
How to build a porch and what design to choose
The main parameter by which the type and configuration of the extension is chosen is its combination with the mansion. Everything needs to be planned out at the design stage. To prevent the structure from sagging, it must be built on a strong and reliable foundation (according to all SNIP standards). A canopy is erected for protection from bad weather. Thus, the porch of a mansion is not only an important architectural element, but also a relaxation and comfort area.
Bottom line
The porch, like a business card of the house, can be of any configuration and size. The most important thing is that the structure protects the mansion from cold and bad weather, and also creates an overall harmonious architectural ensemble with it.
Only after taking into account all the above requirements can you begin to work out the elements of the porch in detail. And you need to start from the foundation.
High porch to the house.
Features of constructing a foundation for a porch
The construction of a porch must be treated with the same responsibility as the construction of an individual house. The basis of any structure is reliable foundation. But developers can think about building a porch only after the main foundation or the house has already been built. And this is what it leads to:
Sakyra10:
– When laying the foundation, we did not make a rectangular small porch. Now that it's time to get busy external finishing, faced a dilemma - what and how to build the entrance group. I don’t want to dig a trench to lay the main foundation, and there is no room for heavy equipment to enter, because... The fence has already been installed. I’m thinking of installing a metal porch - as the simplest technical solution, but whether it needs to be tied to the house, and what kind of foundation to choose for it, I don’t know.
Very often, the construction of all extensions to the house is left “for later”. Then the developers try to correct this mistake, but make another: they make a rigid connection between the foundation of the extension and the main “home” foundation. Because the place where the two foundations join does not have a sufficient margin of safety, and the foundations themselves are laid at different depths and carry different loads, then during seasonal movements of the soil (during frost heaving), opposing forces break the attachment point, as in the photo.
The foundations shift, they bulge, cracks appear, and the structures begin to give way. Therefore, you should remember the following rule:
Any extension (porch, terrace) is a separate structure that requires the construction of its own independent foundation.
Porch for a cottage.
Vit1959:
– In this case, an expansion joint is placed between the two foundations, which is sealed with any elastic material and covered with decorative overlays.
As a result, the foundations look like a single whole, but are decoupled from each other.
VictorUfa:
– An expansion joint can be made through PSUL tape (pre-compressed sealing tape made of polyurethane), and rafter system It is better to mount the roofs of the porch of the house on a hinged joint. Close the connection itself with an abutment strip.
The hinged connection of the elements gives the rafters relative mobility, and with small movements the assembly will remain intact.
If the installation of an expansion joint usually does not cause difficulties, then when choosing a foundation for a porch, a number of questions arise.
– I was thinking about building a foundation for an open porch to the house. But I don’t know which one to choose yet. I’m thinking of considering two options: a metal or stone base. Both have their pros and cons:
- The metal base is easy and quick to install. Holes are drilled in the ground for the piles, and the support pipe is poured. Then they are screwed or welded to it metal corner or channel. The platform is tied, stringers are laid, steps are assembled;
- Making a stone foundation is more difficult. A shallow strip foundation is installed. The slab is poured and on this basis further concrete steps are cast. Such work involves higher costs associated with tying the reinforcement frame, pouring concrete, excavation, etc.
Vit1959:
– I would put a small porch to the house on a regular pile foundation, having previously drilled wells to the depth of freezing of the ground. This is the simplest and cheap option foundations for the porch of the building.
Porch, entrance to a private house.
And here is a user with a nickname VictorUfa believes that if chosen pile foundation under the porch, the piles can be pushed out by the lateral forces of frost heaving, as often happens with fence posts.
Exit found:
Dimastik25:
Watch our video on how to build a terrace on a foundation made of car tires.