How to install a balcony door. Installation of a balcony door. Types and features of sliding doors

A correctly installed balcony door guarantees the absence of drafts and long-term proper operation. Even for glazed and insulated balconies and loggias, it is relevant correct installation balcony doors, since the absence of drafts and the temperature in the house depend on this. In addition, the dimensions of the door can be adjusted to suit you, especially if the figure is voluminous and difficult to fit through. standard door 50 cm wide. Previously, the frame with the balcony door was made of strong wood (oak, ash), but now the door is almost always made of steel fittings with PVC trim. Since the air humidity in the room and outside changes every day, the swollen wooden balcony door caused a lot of inconvenience.

Design features of modern balcony doors

As a rule, a strong frame of a balcony door can withstand the weight of a triple glazing package in the entire door; such a door is called a stained glass door. This allows you to increase natural light rooms, which is very valuable for the conditions of Russia, where most of the population lives at a latitude above 50 degrees.

The balcony block can be either standard windows or full-height windows

There are several types of balcony door designs:

  • Sliding doors - move along grooves, similar to what happens in wardrobes. The design of such doors is complex, it is difficult to maintain tightness, the doors themselves require a large opening and are usually installed on an insulated balcony.
  • Single or double doors with hinged locking hardware like plastic windows. Most typical design, however, due to the large mass of the door, constant adjustment of the hinges is required. The door sags and begins to cling to the frame.
  • The door of a balcony block is usually a single-leaf door. In this case, the window opening is expanded by cutting down load-bearing wall to the doorway.

Related article: DIY gazebos

The overwhelming majority of balcony doors are opening, tilting, single-leaf, since the old housing stock rarely provided wide doorways to the balcony.

Specifics of installing a balcony door

Before installing the footrest, you need to make sure that its base is strong.

It is almost impossible to install a balcony door yourself, so it is better to stock up on an assistant in advance, or better yet, to have several of them

As a rule, door installation is carried out by specialists, because all windows and doors are manufactured according to individual project, since the dimensions of the door and window openings unique for each apartment. Having carefully measured all the openings, the company manufactures a steel frame, trims it with PVC and inserts the required double-glazed window. Since Russia is a country with a very cold climate (the climate is colder only in Mongolia), modern bags contain three layers of glass with carefully sealed chambers filled with inert gas. This allows for much better heat conservation than the old structures in the form of wooden double frames, which had to be sealed and caulked for the winter. In addition, this design of balcony doors almost completely soundproofs the room from the outside environment; drunken shouts and mad dog barking at night, the roar of direct-flow engines, etc. will practically not be heard.

  • First, you need to dismantle the old structure (if it’s wooden, then simply break it with a nail puller) and take it out of the apartment.
  • Installation is very difficult door frame. It must be carefully adjusted, checking the horizontal and vertical directions, and wedged if necessary. After this, you need to carefully secure it in the opening. anchor bolts or self-tapping screws. They must enter the brick or concrete at least 8 cm.
  • After installation, you need to carefully seal the seams with foam.
  • Finish the threshold, attaching it with cement mortar.
  • Installing the door itself into the opening is not very difficult, since it is made exactly to size and is equipped with appropriate hinges. Properly installed balcony doors can be easily opened, tilted or closed even with children's hands.
  • After this, all that remains is to finish the slopes with PVC sheets and corners. This is delicate work and requires serious skills.

It is not possible to install the door alone because the individual parts weigh more than 100 kg, and it is very easy to drop the door, breaking expensive glass and causing serious injury.

How to install a balcony door (video)

Caring for balcony doors

PVC doors are valuable because they are not subject to destructive effects sunlight, moisture and microorganisms, as happens with wooden products. Accordingly, caring for them is very simple and does not require time.

  • It is necessary to check the ease of opening and closing the door; to do this, you need to tighten or loosen the hinge fastenings with a special key. This science is not difficult to comprehend by experience.
  • It is enough to treat the door lock and perimeter once a year with a special aerosol (purchased from a company or on the market), which acts as a cleaning agent and lubricant.
  • White plastic, if it becomes dirty from dust, wash it with soapy water.
  • Wash glass when dirty detergent, of which there are a lot.
  • In winter, tighten the screw of the lock tongue balcony door, and in the summer, accordingly, weaken.

Having ordered a plastic balcony block, you have already spent a significant amount, so it is hardly reasonable to refuse installation by the manufacturer’s employees, who optionally offer installation of the product, charging 10 to 15% of the cost of the PVC structure for the service. But for some, the issue of an extra 1000-1500 rubles spent for the opportunity to use the benefits of the service is no longer so much financial as psychological. The “thrifty” owner in such cases thinks in such a way that if the workers can install the doors on the balcony, then he, a jack of all trades, will be able to do it with his own hands without any problems.

Our goal is not to dissuade those who want to try to implement their plans with their own hands. In this article, in contrast to dozens, if not hundreds, of “instructions” circulating on the Internet, copied as carbon copies by lady rewriters, the instructions may be fundamentally correct, but due to complete absence experience and concepts about the amount of work required, as in a “damaged phone” distorted beyond recognition, we will give a description of the work as it actually looks.

Where to start?

Replacement begins with measurements. We do not recommend making them yourself under any circumstances! Even if you are familiar with the tolerances provided for by the specifications of the manufacturer from which you order the balcony block, the slightest discrepancy in size or defects during the installation process will be attributed to you. It’s just that in 99% of cases they won’t accept your order according to your measurements. It’s worth reassuring those who are too “frugal” - almost all manufacturers make measurements for free.

When installing a balcony block, there are two options, which vary significantly in complexity. Option "A" - you install plastic doors and windows with your own hands in the newly built country house, and option “B” - you change the old one wood block for new PVC.

In the first case, before installing the door, you will not have to dismantle the old windows and doors, in the second - when replacing, in addition to a large number construction waste formed during dismantling, you will have to deal with the concept of “quarter” - which is completely ignored by modern “builder friends” from the sunny republics, who prefer to make door and window openings according to the principle of how a brick (block) will fall. Some nuances will depend on the design of the wall (with or without a quarter) PVC installations block, its fastening, waterproofing and subsequent façade finishing.

The second significant nuance is the time of year when you decide to install a balcony block with your own hands. If this warm time year - you will have a large time limit for replacement, during which you can eliminate errors; in 15-20 degree frost you will not have time to think. Installation in winter time will result in additional costs for purchasing frost-resistant polyurethane foam and the purchase of antifreeze for mortars.

Dismantling the old structure

In all multi-storey buildings, installation of doors and windows was carried out in compliance with GOSTs and SNIPs, which provided for the arrangement of “quarters” in window and doorways for wooden balcony blocks. Therefore, when replacing, you cannot do without a curved nail crowbar - a “mounter”, a chisel, a heavy hammer of at least 800 grams and a saw to remove the old block.

Due to the fact that the builders of the USSR times did not know such delights as anchors and mounting hangers, and they replaced the mounting foam with tow or torn padding, instead of “Rotbanda” they used cement mortar or plaster mixture, it would not be superfluous to stock up on a “Lepestok” respirator, since the dust that is inevitable when dismantling the structure will contain a huge amount of allergens that have accumulated in the cracks for decades.

If you act alone, it will take some time to remove old doors, windows and frames from your apartment, which have quite a significant weight. After complete dismantling wooden elements and the favorite fastening element of Soviet builders - nails 150, it would be optimal to immediately clean the resulting opening wire brush, remove with a chisel possible deposits of petrified cement mortar and close up plaster mixture all defects resulting from your activities along the outer contour of the balcony opening.

Only after this can you mount the shining shine and protective film plastic doors and windows.

Installation of a balcony block

The technical conditions for the manufacture of PVC windows and doors provide for a gap of 15-30 mm between the opening and the edge of the profile. These tolerances are set to ensure correct block orientation and reliable sealing. If for some reason these gaps significantly exceed the permissible ones, then you will have to put up with the loss of light transmission of the window and a significant overconsumption of polyurethane foam.

Actually, for DIY installation you will need:

  • Hammer with drills for concrete (brick) d - 8-10 mm. (according to the diameter of the anchors).
  • Hammer.
  • A screwdriver with a set of bits (can be replaced with a powerful screwdriver).
  • Jigsaw (hacksaw).
  • “Grinder” with a cutting wheel for metal (metal saw).
  • Construction level (600-1000 mm).
  • Construction retractable knife.
  • Spray bottle with water (for moistening slopes).
  • Plastic spatula (for removing glazing beads).
  • Mallet (white rubber).
  • Roulette.
  • A gun for “professional” polyurethane foam (you can kill yourself with “amateur” cans with a tube).

From consumables:

  • Anchors d-8-10 mm, l-100-150 mm.
  • Plastic dowels.
  • Self-tapping screws 35-50 mm.
  • Mounting hangers (at the rate of 1 per 40 cm of block perimeter).
  • Acrylic sealant (matching the color of the block) in a mounting gun.
  • Polyurethane foam (taking into account frost resistance).

Included with the window unit, it is advisable to have:

  • Sealing self-expanding tape.
  • Waterproofing tape.
  • Vapor barrier tape.
  • Drains.
  • Material for the threshold device.
  • Material for constructing a window sill.
  • Material for arranging slopes.
  • Wooden wedges.

If all of the listed tools and materials, purely by chance, are at hand - then get to work!

Block installation

Installation begins with dismantling... From the delivered window and door (if they are assembled), the window and door leaves and are set aside at a safe distance during installation. The freed structure is inserted into a free window or doorway and secured with wooden wedges. After this, using a level and plumb line, the correct alignment is checked in all three planes: vertical, horizontal, frontal. Adjustment is carried out by tapping the wedges with a mallet. After placing the box, it is fixed in the opening. Either with the help of anchors - through the holes in metal-plastic profile, or using mounting hangers, one side drilled with self-tapping screws to the PVC profile, and the other side fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws screwed into dowels. The profile of the hangers is flexible, so it can be attached to the wall at different angles.

After the box is securely fastened, a waterproofing membrane is glued to the outer (street) side of the PVC profile and fixed to external wall. The membrane is self-adhesive; you just need to remove the protective paper around the edge.

After gluing the protective membrane, the window sashes and door leaf are hung. For ease of installation, the double-glazed windows are first removed from them by dismantling the glazing bead that holds them in place. If the design of a balcony window or door provides for a “micro-ventilation” mode, then installation of the leaf starts from the bottom hinge, and then, bringing the door to the “closed” state, insert pins into the middle and top hinges of the door or window. Install fittings (handles, clamps, latches). Check the functionality of the structure (opening, closing, tilting for micro-ventilation). After this, the double-glazed windows are inserted into place, secured with glazing beads, the window and door of the block are locked and foaming is carried out, moving from bottom to top and filling the space between the frame and the wall to 2/3 of the depth, in the future for the expansion of the foam during polymerization.

Before foaming begins, the wall and box are moistened with a spray bottle for better adhesion (sticking) of the polymer. Do-it-yourself installation of the window sill, threshold and slopes is carried out after polymerization and trimming of excess polyurethane foam. To create the required angles of inclination, either polyurethane foam or wooden slats are used. required thickness. It is recommended to place a layer of moisture-resistant polymer insulation under the window sill, drains and threshold panel; this will prevent them from bending, and the gutters on the outside of the window will not “rattle” when raindrops hit them.

Let's sum it up

After completing the installation of the window sill and slopes, the joints between the frame profile and the slope panels (window sill) must be sealed with acrylic sealant. It is applied in an even thin layer along the seam using a mounting gun, then pressed into the existing gap with a rubber spatula or finger and immediately after that damp cloth you need to remove the leftovers. (Do not use silicone sealant!).

Proper installation of a balcony block means good sound and heat insulation and an aesthetically pleasing appearance of the room. Installation is preceded by a lot of work on preparing the opening and PVC structure. Each stage has its own difficulties.

Non-standard solutions - a transom above the door, an opening window sash near the door

Preparing a wall opening for installation of a balcony block begins with dismantling the old structure.

Pay attention! Before removing the old block, you need to clear the window sill and remove the curtain rod and curtains. Furniture located close to the window should be moved away or covered with film to protect it from dust.

Dismantling of a wooden window and door unit is carried out as follows:

  • Remove the opening doors and balcony doors from their hinges. The glass is removed from the blind sashes, after removing the glazing beads.
  • The window sill is dismantled. The concrete is broken with a hammer, cutting the reinforcing elements with a grinder. A wooden, aluminum or plastic window sill is simply removed from the opening.
  • Remove the tides.
  • Remove old frames from the opening. To do this, they can be cut, starting from the bottom, or pryed with a construction cutter.
  • The slopes are dismantled and the insulation is removed.

Dismantling an old wooden structure

If you are dismantling old PVC windows and doors, first remove all fasteners and then remove the frames.

Try to perform the work as carefully as possible to maintain the integrity of the opening.

Preparation of window and door openings

According to the current GOST, which regulates the connection of PVC windows to openings, the latter must have a flat surface. The presence of chips, potholes, and other irregularities, the depth of which exceeds 10 mm, is not allowed.

If the walls crumble, they are strengthened with binders. Oily surfaces are degreased. Irregularities are eliminated with the help of plaster, and cracks in brick and block masonry are eliminated with the help of high-rigidity foam insulation or the same plaster.

You can clean the opening from dust and debris using a stiff brush or vacuum cleaner. If installation work If done in winter, then snow, frost, and ice are also removed from the working surface.

The walls of the opening must be aligned horizontally and vertically. Their deviation from the axes is acceptable, but not more than 4 mm per 1 m. Accurate measurements can be made using a building level, laser builder planes. You can also control the equality of the diagonals in the opening.

The process of installing the frame in a clean and leveled opening

Connection of door and window frame

To connect the window and door parts, you must first remove the movable sashes from their hinges.

To do this you should:

  • knock out the top hinge rod;
  • open locking mechanism, turning the handle;
  • remove the sash from the bottom hinge.

Metal rod under the decorative hinge plug

Then prepare a connecting strip, self-tapping screws and an electric drill with a set of drills.

  1. Place the tie strip between the door and window frame.
  2. Place the entire structure “upside down” on a flat surface, making sure that there are no distortions in it.
  3. From the door side, drill tunnels in the end part of the frame in increments of 30-40 cm.
  4. Insert the fasteners and tighten them.
  5. Cover the visible parts of the fasteners with decorative caps.

Profile for connecting balcony door and window

Fixing the sealing tape

If you want to make fastening units from the side of the window, you will have to remove the blind part of the window. To do this, you need to pry the glazing beads with a spatula, remove them, and then expose the glass.

Pay attention! Choose self-tapping screws with a length of 80-90 mm so that when screwed to the end they do not violate the tightness of the window in the balcony block.

Connection diagram of individual parts of the block

Selecting fasteners for a balcony block

Before installing the balcony block, you need to make markings for the fasteners that will hold it in place. For these purposes, anchor plates or spacer frame dowels are used. What is the difference, what are the advantages of each option?

Anchor metal plates fasten one end to the outer end of the window and door frame, and the other to the wall of the opening.

Plate bent to the wall

Some of them (“with ears”) are first inserted into special grooves on the frame and only then screwed with self-tapping screws. Others (without “ears”) are fixed immediately, simply by attaching them to the box.

Fastening anchor plates “with ears”

The main advantage of anchor plates is that to install them you do not need to remove double-glazed windows from the blind parts of the window. This reduces the risk of damage to the PVC structure significantly, which is especially important for inexperienced craftsmen.

But anchor plates cannot always be used. They are unreliable fasteners for large (more than 4 m2) and structures with actively used sashes. They are also not suitable for installing a balcony door. However, many experienced craftsmen skillfully combine plates with spacer dowels, using the former in the upper part of the window-door unit, and the latter in the bottom and sides.

Fastening a balcony block to anchor dowels is the most reliable option. These elements are a set of a bushing and a durable metal bolt. When the bolt is screwed into the bushing, it expands, due to which the frame structure is reliably attracted to the walls of the opening.

However, the use of dowels presupposes the preliminary removal of even blind sashes, which may lead to a violation of the integrity of the double-glazed windows. If you are not a professional, then you cannot do without an assistant, or even two.

Removing the bead using a spatula

Pay attention! To install the box using dowels, you will need a powerful hammer drill.

Installation of a balcony block

After you have chosen the method of attaching the PVC structure and made the appropriate markings, you can install the block in the opening. The complexity of this stage lies in aligning the frame box vertically and horizontally, securing it securely, and making an assembly seam.

Aligning and fixing the window-door unit in the opening

The window-door unit is not installed with direct support on the walls of the opening. To form an installation gap and transfer the weight of the PVC structure to the base, it is necessary to use support blocks (wedges). They can be plastic or wooden. The latter are easy to do with your own hands, but they require mandatory impregnation with antiseptics. The optimal length of the block is 110-120 mm.

Wooden mounting wedges

Two plastic mounting wedges form a rectangle, which allows you to securely install the balcony block in the existing opening. If necessary, the elements are shifted relative to each other. Due to the existing projections, they will not move apart. This allows you to orient the frame box in space.

Placing mounting wedges under the frame

Pay attention! Mounting blocks must be placed under each vertical element of the balcony block, including under the impost.

According to the current GOST, after fixing the balcony block with temporary wedges, you can begin fastening it using anchor plates or dowels.

Fastening the block using plates

Installation of the frame box on the plates is carried out as follows:

  1. Mark the places where the plates are attached to the frame. They must retreat from her internal corners by 150-180 mm. The installation step is 600-700 mm. The distance from the impost to the nearest fastener should not be more than 180 mm.
  2. Mark the places for fixing the plates on the walls of the opening.
  3. Using a chisel, make recesses in the wall for fasteners. This “recessing” will help subsequently hide the plates under the final finishing of the slopes.
  4. Fix the fasteners on the frame so that they look towards the room. First, screw the plates in the lower left and right corners, then on the sides of the box, and lastly, in its upper part.
  5. Place the box in the opening, bend the plates slightly and secure them to the wall with dowels.

Screwing the plate to the PVC frame

Pay attention! While working, check the evenness of the balcony block. During the process of tightening the fasteners, a noticeable distortion may occur.

Dowels are used as follows:

  • Marking the balcony block. It is similar to the arrangement of anchor plates.
  • The frames are drilled through from the ends at the designated points.
  • Install the PVC structure in the opening, align it horizontally and vertically, and mark the walls along the holes already made.
  • Fix the balcony block box with dowels.

Fastener seating depth

Diagram of fastening units

Pay attention! After attaching the window and door unit to the wall, the side mounting wedges are usually removed. But the lower ones must be left as a support for the entire structure.

The difference between fastening with dowels and plates

Making an assembly seam

After installing the balcony block in the existing opening, you can proceed to making installation seams. Current GOST 30971-2012 assumes the presence of three main layers in them:

  • central - responsible for heat and sound insulation of windows and balcony doors;
  • internal - preventing the penetration of steam to the insulation;
  • external - removing steam from the central layer, preventing moisture from penetrating into it from the street.

General requirements for the installation seam are: high quality its isolation, the use of environmentally friendly and safe materials. Moreover, all of them must withstand operating temperatures in the range of -10..+40°C.

Central layer of assembly seam:

  • Material – polyurethane foam or well-known polyurethane foam. An alternative is polyethylene foam tapes, thermolen, which are not so convenient to use and are used quite rarely.
  • Laying - continuous filling of all seams and joints. The presence of delaminations and cracks is acceptable, but within 6 mm. The width of the foam layer is from 15 to 60 mm, the depth is not less than the thickness of the PVC box.
  • Do not use polyurethane foam at air temperatures below -10°C.

Foaming the assembly seam

Use a special gun to apply polyurethane foam

Pay attention! While the polyurethane foam is drying (at least 24 hours), the pre-hung window sashes and the balcony door must be closed.

Outer layer of assembly seam:

  • Material – sealing tape, sealants.
  • The water resistance limit is at least 300 Pa.
  • Must be resistant to temperatures ranging from +70°C to -30°C and lower if we are talking about a frost-resistant seam.

Additionally, the outer layer of the assembly seam is protected with special overlays and strips.

The inner layer is an elastic sealant that is laid continuously. It should have greater resistance to vapor permeation than the central layer of the seam.

Window sill installation rules

After installing the main part of the balcony block, you can begin installing additional elements. One of them is the window sill. It protects the assembly seam from external influences, increases the thermal insulation of the room.

Preparing the window sill and opening

You can install a plastic window sill or line the ledge ceramic tiles. However, the first option looks more organic in combination with a PVC balcony block.

Installing a plastic window sill will not take much time, but requires some preparatory work. You need:

  • Remove all debris remaining after installing the window and door.
  • Remove dust work surface.
  • Level it with cement mortar, if necessary.
  • Make a drawing of the future window sill, taking into account the size of the opening and the angle of the slopes.
  • Prepare the window sill itself. It needs to be cut according to the drawing. To do this, you can use a jigsaw, wood saw and other cutting tools.

Basic values ​​for cutting a window sill

After completing the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to installation work.

Fastening the window sill in the opening

The window sill must fit tightly to the frame and be aligned along the main axes. To do this, he needs support points. Usually their function is performed by plastic or dry ones treated with an antiseptic. wooden blocks(pads).

The supports are laid in increments of 50-60 cm in two rows: the first along the frame, the second along the inner wall.

Plastic supports for window sill

As soon as the first row of supports is installed, you need to take a piece of window sill and attach it to the frame. It should be aligned similarly to a full-fledged product.

Install the second row of supports and again use the building level. The angle between the window sill and the frame can be strictly 90° or be 2-3° greater (to remove moisture).

The final stage of work is foaming the space between the opening wall and the window sill. The first layer of foam is applied along the frame, the PVC product is installed, and the remaining space is filled with polyurethane foam. After a day, it will be possible to cut off the protruding excess.

Installation diagram of a plastic window sill

How to make a threshold for a balcony block

When installing a balcony block, you need to take care of adding a threshold. It is needed for a smooth transition between the living room and the balcony.

You can make a threshold with your own hands from plastic or tiles. However, before starting work, it is important to pay attention to the installation height of the door frame. If it is small, then you can install the plastic threshold according to the following scheme:

  1. Cleaning and leveling concrete base.
  2. Installation of support bars (their thickness is chosen based on the desired threshold height).
  3. Aligning supports horizontally.
  4. Laying the threshold.
  5. Foaming the space underneath.
  6. Waterproof all joints using sealant.

Flat base for the threshold

Installing a plastic threshold on wooden supports

Plastic threshold for the balcony

To cover a concrete base with tiles, you only need to complete the first step. Then you can begin priming the working surface and applying the adhesive.

If the height from the floor to the edge of the door frame is significant, then you can raise the threshold using clinker bricks. In this case you will have to:

  1. Cleaning, leveling and priming the concrete base.
  2. Dilution of cement mortar.
  3. Laying bricks on mortar. Please note: they should not reach the angle of repose with internal wall room 3-4 cm.
  4. Installation of wooden formwork around the perimeter of the threshold.
  5. Final filling with mortar.
  6. Removing formwork.

Laying clinker bricks

The ledge can be tiled or decorated with plastic.

Finishing window and door slopes

Can be used with plasterboard, plaster and plastic ( sheet material, sandwich panels). Work technologies also vary.

Plastering is one of the most affordable and simple options slope finishing. The plaster has low price, is easy to apply, forming a smooth coating ready for final painting. However, this material has a low heat saving rate and can crack under the influence of external factors and is susceptible to mold formation. In addition, the process of working with plaster itself is quite dirty.

But if you decide to save your budget, then plaster the slopes as follows:

  • Prepare your work surface thoroughly. Eliminate unevenness, degrease and remove dust.
  • Check the evenness of the slopes using a building level. The permissible deviation along the axes is 2 mm per 1 m of the finished surface.
  • Apply a layer of deep penetration primer.
  • Attach a reinforcing corner along the edges of the slopes to “stumps” made of mortar or along the edge of the inner wall - a wooden rule (slat).
  • Using a spatula, apply the solution to the work surface. This should be done as if throwing it.
  • Distribute the solution along the slopes, making movements from bottom to top.
  • Make a temperature gap between the frame and the slope in the form of a furrow 3-5 mm wide. Fill it with silicone sealant.
  • After the plaster has dried, finish it with grout. To do this, use fine-grained sandpaper.

Distributing the mortar along the wall

When plastering, it is important not only to obtain a smooth surface of the walls, but also to evenly distribute the solution and maintain the slopes. It is for this purpose that a special tool is used - a small tool. You can make it yourself from plywood, boards, timber or even leftover PVC panels.

The optimal width of the fry is 130-150 mm, and the length is 80-100 mm greater than the width of the slope. On one side of the tool you need to make a notch that should correspond to the thickness window frame. The mortar is pressed against the wall, one end resting it against the frame, and the mortar is leveled. It must be laid 5-6 mm thick.

Notch at the end of the fry

Perforated corner and window frame - beacons for distributing putty using a hammer

Plastic slopes are resistant to moisture and mold, easy to maintain, aesthetically pleasing, and affordable. Their main disadvantage is fragility under directed mechanical influence.

The material for covering the opening can be a sandwich panel with insulation or a simple PVC panel. You can install them in two in various ways– with or without the help of a starting profile.

In the first case, the work is performed as follows:

  • The starting U-profile is screwed along the entire length of the frame with self-tapping screws.
  • Along the edges of the slopes, a lathing made of wooden slats is installed. At the junction of the top and side elements, a gap of 10 mm should be left. The protruding parts (“spikes”) of the panels will go into it.
  • The end is installed in the starting profile, pre-cut to required sizes plastic slope.
  • Insulate the slope mineral wool or polyurethane foam.
  • The second end is fixed to the sheathing using “bug” self-tapping screws.
  • An F-profile is installed along the edge of the inner wall, fixing it with glue or liquid nails. It is overlapped in the corners and then cut off.
  • The junction of the slope and the window structure is insulated with liquid plastic or silicone sealant.

Fastening the starting profile around the perimeter of the frame

The space between the panel and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam

The second option is installation plastic slope without a starting profile - involves performing similar actions, but with one exception. The PVC panel is inserted with a “spike” directly into the mounting foam, which was used to install the balcony block. To do this, it is cut to a depth of 10 mm. The width of the cut should not exceed 1 mm.

Pay attention! If you use a sandwich panel, you can make the “spike” yourself. To do this, the product is first cut along the edge to ½ thickness. Then an incision is made across. The result is an L-shaped edge of the panel.

Features of working with drywall

The opening for a balcony block is rarely lined with plasterboard.

  • Firstly, this is a labor-intensive process that involves working not only with this material, but also with plaster, primer, and glue.
  • Secondly, you only need to use moisture resistant drywall. But even with this, the entire skin will need additional protection from moisture.
  • Thirdly, under the influence of external factors, drywall can swell and delaminate.

It is convenient to use gypsum board when you are sheathing interior walls. In this case, working with slopes will look like this:

  1. A metal UD profile is fastened along the window frame with self-tapping screws.
  2. A plasterboard blank is inserted into it, starting from the top of the opening.
  3. The formed cavity is filled with insulation, leaving 10 cm free from the edge.
  4. An adhesive composition is applied to the edge of the slope and the drywall is pressed against it.
  5. All joints are additionally coated with glue.
  6. After it dries, the slopes are puttied.

Adhesive method of fastening plasterboard slopes

Pay attention! To obtain a smooth and durable base for subsequent finishing, you need to apply at least two layers of plaster to the drywall.

Video master classes on the topic

Detailed videos that will help even a beginner install a balcony block with a window sill and slopes on their own:

Tuning the opening and installing the BB:

Independent installation of a window and door unit on a balcony is a labor-intensive process that requires a lot of time and financial costs. Directly installation is preceded by a large amount of preparatory work. Both are based on certain theoretical knowledge, practical experience. If you are not willing to risk a PVC structure by installing it yourself, consider hiring a professional.

Apartment owners, updating the interior and carrying out repairs, are often faced with the need to replace the old balcony door with a new, more modern and high-quality one. Thanks to your operational characteristics and reasonable prices, the most popular designs are made of plastic. Usually installation is carried out with the help of specially invited workers. But if you know how to hold tools in your hands and want to save 10 to 15 percent of the cost of the door unit, we advise you to install the balcony door yourself, without turning to specialists for help.

Features of PVC balcony blocks

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is modern polymer material, which is used for production plastic structures. Such doors have a significant service life, help reduce heat loss, are not afraid of moisture, provide reliable sound insulation, do not require painting, and are easy to clean.

Balcony doors can have different configurations. As a rule, the door is combined into a single unit with the window, forming a balcony block. A standard balcony block can have several types:

  • The lower part of the door can be covered with a sandwich panel, which increases the strength in this part, which is worth considering if there are small children in the family;
  • Fully glass door used to increase luminous flux in dark rooms;
  • A window with a double opening system provides ventilation;
  • A balcony door in combination with a blind window is cheaper; a narrower profile allows the window to let in more light, but does not provide ventilation.
If the balcony door opens outward, this can create inconvenience if your balcony is narrow. It is much more convenient if it opens into the room.

Installation of a balcony door

To install a PVC balcony door, we recommend inviting an assistant, as this will make the work easier and speed up the process. But it’s quite possible for one person to do it. First of all, prepare all the tools in advance: drill or hammer drill, hammer, building level, construction knife. In addition, for installation you will need anchor plates of a certain width, dowels, screws, and polyurethane foam. Place the tools so that you can easily reach them while working. The entire process consists of the following steps to be followed.

Removing the old door

Before you begin installing a plastic balcony door, you need to free the doorway from the old frame, having first removed the door from its hinges. You may need a small crowbar; if necessary, you can saw the box a little. Carefully remove all its parts, including screws and screws. Clear the area of ​​debris and dust.

Preparing a new door for installation

It is necessary to disassemble the structure: remove the door and window from their hinges, install the door and window handle on them.

Before you begin installing a balcony door with a window, check new door for damage, scratches, chips, transparency of double-glazed windows, tightness of gaskets.

Installation of the box

Insert the prepared box into the opening so that there is a small gap between it and the base. Secure it by attaching it to the wall with dowels. Using paired wedges, level the structure. Check the result using a level. Having achieved correct position doors, drill holes and install fasteners. After this, the window sill and threshold are installed.

Make sure that the profile does not bend during installation. Control the installation process at the building level.

Assembly and sealing

Now you can begin the process of hanging the balcony door sashes. If a ventilation mode is provided, then install the lower canopy first. Then place the sash in the closed position, align both parts of the top hinge and insert the pin into them. For a standard design, simply slide the sash onto the hinges.

To seal the balcony door and adjacent window, leave them in the closed position and seal all cracks with foam, after spraying the surface with water. Do not forget that its volume increases significantly, so fill the voids by 2/3.

A few words about setting the threshold

When installing a new balcony door, do not forget about such a noticeable detail as the threshold. IN panel houses the level of the doorway is higher than the floor level. This allows you to quite simply install the threshold during the installation of the door, insulating it with foam. It can withstand significant loads and can be safely stepped on during operation.

In brick houses, the doorway often starts right from the floor level, so the door frame is deepened by 2-3 cm. But sometimes, as a result of dismantling the old frame, a large depression is formed. In this case, you can use an additional profile.

It is not necessary to set a threshold white to match the door. We recommend matching its color to the shade of the flooring. This threshold is more practical, since it will be easier to care for.

If you decide to install a balcony door yourself, then the quality of the work performed is entirely in your hands. You have the opportunity to pay close attention to every detail. If you followed the technology at all stages of installation, the new balcony door will serve for a long time and close well.

Almost all new multi-storey buildings have loggias or balconies. Owners of such extensions can use such premises not only for storing various necessary and unnecessary things, but also for relaxation. In any case, the balcony from the room must be separated by a door, which is always installed when performing repair work in the apartment.

Balcony doors are special kind, which are intended not only for access to the balcony, but also for lighting the room.

Quite often, people who move to new apartment or who lived in the same place large number years old, there is a desire to change it to a more reliable and modern one. In such a situation, a person will need to look for information about the installation.

There is an option to invite a specialist who, for a fee, can install a new door to the balcony. In case cash There is little available and you want to do the installation yourself; it is quite possible to install such a structure yourself. To do this, you will need to study all the recommendations in detail and clearly follow the steps that will be described below.

This material offers instructions that describe the installation of plastic balcony doors. This is due to the fact that PVC material in at the moment is the most popular.

Existing types:

  1. Single-leaf or double-leaf (the difference is in the number of door leaves).
  2. Combined or free-standing (combination with windows).

The most common of the combined doors and windows for a loggia are single-floor structures with a window and 2 sashes. This type makes it possible to install radiators.

Advantages and Disadvantages

Advantages:

  1. A similar door for a balcony correct installation It is absolutely sealed, and therefore is able to protect the living space from the penetration of cold and noise.
  2. Such designs are quite convenient to use; operation almost never causes any difficulties.
  3. Plastic products have a fairly long shelf life - if all operating conditions are followed, such a design can serve for an unlimited period of time.

The main disadvantage is that the material from which such structures are made (polyvinyl chloride) is not highly environmentally friendly. Plastic is a toxic material. Such a negative effect can intensify with a significant increase in temperature. environment. Therefore, installing a plastic door with your own hands is not recommended in places that are often subject to air heating to extreme temperatures.

Installation Basics

There are quite a large number of companies that offer their services for installing similar structures for balconies. However, you will have to spend a certain amount of money on this, in addition, the quality of installation work is not always able to meet all the necessary requirements. In this regard, it is quite possible that the most the best option You will be able to install a balcony door and windows yourself with an understanding of all stages of the work.

In order to install such a structure on a balcony, you will need to have the following tools:

  • hammer;
  • building level;
  • special knife with a retractable blade;
  • hammer drill or drill.

Before you begin installing a new balcony door and windows, you will need to get rid of the old one. To do this, you should carefully dismantle the structure, removing all screws, self-tapping screws and other possible elements. When carrying out such work, you must try not to damage the doorway.

The plastic structure can be supplied as a kit, which will also include a threshold. In such a case, you don’t have to worry about anything, you should just proceed to install the block.

If the door does not come with a threshold, but you want to install one, you will have to work a little. Finishing the door threshold for a balcony is no less important process compared to other installation work.

Installation process

Next, the actual installation of the structure begins. First of all, you will need side faces drive 2-3 nails into the door frame, the tip of which will protrude a small distance beyond the frame. This is necessary in order to create supports for the door. Next, install the door frame, horizontal and vertical position which is measured using a building level.

The frame is fixed in an absolutely level position with long self-tapping screws. To do this, the box is inserted into the opening and its position is adjusted using the same building level. If the distance between the opening and door block different in different places, you will need to insert wooden wedges into certain areas, which allow you to level the position.

To ensure the maximum level of sound insulation and eliminate the possibility of cold air entering through the opening, you will need to seal all the gaps between the frame and the walls. This can be done by using polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

Next, you need to start fastening the door using screws, which should be screwed in carefully. In addition, you will need dowels that are driven in with a hammer. After this, the door itself will need to be mounted in the installed frame using special hinges, which should be screwed to the frame with screws.

Often the design comes complete with fittings for a balcony door. Therefore, the most important task of the owner is its correct installation.

You will also need to secure windows with a tilt-and-turn mechanism. It is recommended to refer to the text of the window instructions, which contains a detailed, competent and most accurate recommended sequence necessary actions. The principle of installing windows is very similar to the process of installing a standard entrance door.

Important nuances

To increase rigidity in double-leaf doors, blind transoms are used. It is necessary to connect the outer and inner transoms with a metal bracket made of a sheet strip, measuring 6*15 mm, which should be located at the bottom of the frames.

During operation great value need to be given the correct device thresholds. IN standard construction The bottom bars of the doors in the frame are made in the same way as in the windows. In this case, you will need to embed the flooring into the inner box.

To ensure convenient passage through the threshold, which has a separate frame, it is necessary to make a concrete tray between the doors 2-3 mm below the level of the top of the protrusion of the quarter block from the bottom of the inner frame.

In order to protect the thresholds from wear, you will need to cover the open part of the lower bar near the door frame with an iron strip after painting, and then repaint it. In buildings that have rich decoration and architectural design, it is not allowed to make doors with concrete tray. Hence, bottom part The box is made from a solid board. In this case, the minimum height of the thresholds is allowed.

The minimum size at the threshold is considered to be: from the floor to the bottom of the internal door - 10 mm, the width of quarters in boxes - 10 mm, the distance from the board of the box to the bottom outer door- 10 mm.

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To prevent moisture from getting from the balcony areas under the floor, care should be taken to ensure that they are located 8-10 cm below the level of the zero floor.

In narrow balconies, doors should open inward. This is due to the fact that if they open in different directions, they will occupy the balcony and there will be no way to use it.