Increasingly, instead of a stove, a hob and a separate oven are installed in the kitchen. Built-in appliances fit better into the interior and have more modern look. Today we will talk about how to repair similar equipment, namely hobs. They are electric, induction and gas. Each type has its own damage, but there are some common points. More details about repairs hob different types we'll tell you further.
Electric hob repair
For any breakdown of electrical and induction hob The first step is to check whether the power supply is normal. They start with basic things.
Only after you have checked all these parameters should you move on. Repairing a hob should start with determining exact nature malfunctions. From this we can guess what could be the reason.
Disassembling the hob
In order to continue to repair the hob yourself, you need to turn it off and dismantle it, then disassemble it and remove the front panel. We turn off the power on the panel by turning off the machine and the RCD on this line. If you used a cord when connecting, remove it from the outlet. After which, we start sharp object into the gap between the hob and the countertop, lift it.
By removing the ceramic plate we gain access to the electrical components
If you connected the hob directly or through a block, you need to unscrew the wires. To do this, remove (lift or unscrew) the cover that covers the wires. Before removing them, sketch or better yet take a photo of how the wires are connected. This will make it easier to put everything back in place.
After this, the hob is transferred to the table (covered with a clean cloth so as not to scratch the front panel) and laid face down.
Problems with burners
If all the burners do not heat up, there may be problems with the power supply, but we would have already identified them. What else could it be? The power circuit fuse has blown. This happens during power surges. Find where it is installed and inspect or call, replace if necessary. It costs very little, and is easy to replace - pull the old one out of the holders and install the new one.
If problems with heating the burners began immediately after installing the hob, the reason may be that the wire selected was of insufficient cross-section. Read this article and choose the correct section, connect a new cable or cord.
If one of the burners does not heat up (or heats up weakly), the following faults may be the cause:
Most often, various problems with burners are associated precisely with a malfunction of the temperature sensor or control relay. If one burner does not turn on, after some time it turns off spontaneously, on the contrary, it does not turn off until you turn it off from the network... all this and other similar problems are caused by the incorrect operation of these sensors on a specific burner and you should look there first. There is another option - problems with the control (processor). But they will be described further.
Touchpad problems
Sometimes a malfunction of the hob is caused by incorrect operation of the touch panel. You can understand that this is the case by hearing. Its proper operation is accompanied by sound signals. If they are not there, then something is wrong. The panel does not respond. This may be because the surface and panel are dirty and simply cannot understand that they are being accessed. In this case, you need to wash the panel, wipe it, then try everything again.
Sometimes the control board can malfunction. To fix the problem, turn off the power (turn off the power completely by removing the plug from the socket or turning off the circuit breaker on the panel). We wait 20-30 minutes and turn it on again. A full reboot occurs, perhaps the problem will be solved.
One of the hob control panel options
If all this does not help, you need to disassemble the surface, check the power supply in series, then the existing element base - capacitors, varistors, transformer. If there are no problems here, the repair of the hob is complete for you, since the remaining cause is the microprocessor, but testing it is a job for specialists.
Repair of induction panels
The peculiarity of the induction panel is that the heating is turned on only if there is a special cookware on the burner. It stops immediately after the dishes are removed. That is, you can check whether the burner is working only by placing suitable cookware on it. But, if there are any problems, a message about the device status and an error code are displayed on the control panel. We look at its decoding in the instructions, so we determine the approximate nature of the damage.
It only heats up when there is a certain type of metal utensil (magnetic)
If the surface does not start working
If the stove does not work at all, you should start repairing the induction hob, as described above, by checking the power supply, cord, contacts, etc. First you need to exclude the most simple options, and then look for damage further.
If nothing is found during inspection, and the induction hob still does not work, turn it off, transfer it to a table with a cloth spread, lay it face down, remove the glass-ceramic panel from it (unscrew the fixing bolts). Most problems with induction furnaces associated with the power block and breakdown of elements. This is due to voltage surges and to prevent such problems, it is better to install a stabilizer.
We begin the test by testing the power section. These are diode bridges, transistors and a fuse. There is only one fuse - it is easy to find and check.
These are holders for installing a fuse - a glass bulb with a wire inside
Diode bridges and transistors are located next to the radiator and burner control keys. We turn the multimeter into dial mode and check the diode bridges and transistors.
Hob repair: calling transistors and diode bridge
If there is a breakdown, we will hear the device beeping - this element is faulty and must be replaced. We unsolder the old one and install the new one. If it is impossible to find a spare part from the same company, select one with similar characteristics. But there may be problems when soldering, since they may have different dimensions. This is not so important, the performance is important.
When replaced, it may not turn out very nice
After replacement, we check all power circuits for breakdowns and short circuits. We especially carefully check the part that is associated with broken elements - there may still be failed elements. If there is no other damage, we assemble the panel, connect it, and test it.
For a detailed repair process for an AEG (Elektrolux) induction hob, see the following video.
Other problems
The design of this technique is more complex and possible malfunctions, like the reasons, there are many. Here are the most common problems and methods for eliminating them.
Most problems can be avoided by carefully studying the operating instructions and powering the equipment through a stabilizer. Then repairing the induction hob may not be necessary at all.
Gas hob repair
In a gas hob, you can only repair the electric ignition and gas control system yourself. In principle, the main problems arise with them. Since a gas hob with electric ignition is also connected to electricity, in case of general problems with the electrical part (piezo ignition does not work at all), first check the presence of power in the outlet and inspect the integrity of the wire. If everything is fine here, you can go deeper.
You can repair your gas hob yourself
The electric ignition button does not work (no spark)
Electric ignition is a convenient thing, but periodically the spark stops “jumping” and the fire on some burner does not ignite. You can light it by pressing the button of another burner. They are connected in parallel and when you press one, there is a spark on all burners. But this situation is abnormal and the spark must be restored. Repairing the hob in this case is not very difficult. There are several reasons:
What else can be done is to check the contacts and soldering. If necessary, tighten the contacts or clean them from dirt, solder them, if cold ones are found, re-solder them. How to determine if a solder is cold? If you pry the tin with something hard (the end of a multimeter probe, for example), it moves or flies off, and there may be cracks in it. In this case, heat up the soldering iron and melt the solder again.
After ignition, the flame on the burner goes out
In many modern gas stoves or cooking surfaces have a gas control function. Near each burner there is a sensor that monitors the presence of a flame. If there is no flame, the gas supply stops. The function is useful, but sometimes problems arise - after ignition, when you release the power handle, the flame goes out. The fact is that the sensor - thermocouple - is dirty or faulty and “does not see” the flame.
Where is the thermocouple located in a gas stove?
First you need to try cleaning all the sensors. During use, they quickly become overgrown with grease, so they require periodic cleaning. First, turn off the power, remove the burners, remove the handles, and unscrew the front panel. We find a thermocouple on a non-working burner. This is a small metal pin located close to gas burner. In some models of gas hobs it can simply be inserted, in others there is a lock. You need to remove the sensor from its socket and clean it of dirt. Use regular kitchen dishwashing chemicals or something stronger. It is important to achieve results. We wash the sensors, dry them, and put them in place. You can check your work.
Sometimes it happens that even after cleaning some burners do not work. This means that the thermocouple has failed. In this case, repairing a gas-powered hob involves replacing the thermocouple. You already know how to get to it, but it can be turned off simply: you need to remove the corresponding wires from the block. We take out the old sensor and install a new one. Reinstall the cover and check the operation. That's all, actually.
One important point: If your equipment is under warranty, you should not repair it yourself, otherwise you will be denied warranty repairs.
Not every domestic car can boast high-quality panel. The quality of the plastic is not the best, so severe frosts or heat it may crack. It happens that even a corner of the panel comes off. This article will talk about how to repair a panel on a VAZ 2110 and others like her.
The panel itself consists of three elements:
- central part,
- top and bottom pads
The corner of the panel coming off can be due to two reasons:
- The screws holding the top cover have come loose
- or soft part the panel moved away from metal surface top pad.
It is impossible to tighten the top trim without removing the panel, so you will have to dismantle it. If the trim is screwed on normally, and the problem is only that the soft part of the corner has moved away from the metal body, then in this case the problem can be solved in several ways. In the section of our website you can
The corner of the panel may come loose due to excessive tension. On back side corner there is a material like foam rubber. Over time, this material begins to crumble and lose strength - in this case, gluing the corner will not work. Of course, you can try to glue it, but then the soft part will stick to the plastic deflector, and not to the metal part.
You can try to “mask” the gap that forms after peeling off the corner of the panel. For example, the gap can be covered with a wire laid inside the gap using a screwdriver. As a result, the receding corner will not attract attention as much. You can use not the wire, but the seal of the “eight” headlight. You can use it to try to return the corner to its original place, for which you will need polyurethane foam.
After application polyurethane foam the sheathing on the metal body will only be held in place by foam. Before using foam, the surface must be cleaned and degreased. Excess foam from the floor or tunnel is immediately removed with a wet cloth. You shouldn’t remove the foam near the corners right away, otherwise it will simply smudge. After the foam has dried, the unnecessary material is removed using a sharp stationery knife, and the seams are painted over with a marker. At first glance, nothing will stick to the foam, since it “bursts”, but according to the assurance of car owners who used this method, the corners do not come out after using the “installation”.
How to remove cracks?
- In order to remove cracks on the surface of the panel, you can use a special plastic repair tool. As an alternative, we can offer reupholstery of the lining with material. Using a special product is the simplest method, since there is no need to remove the trim for repairs.
- Cracks can also be removed using epoxy resin.
- Cosmofen and cold welding are also used to combat cracks.
To ensure that the repaired crack is not too noticeable against the background of the panel, you can repaint the entire panel or cover it with leather or vinyl leather. Before reupholstering, the cracks are securely puttied.
If the problem is only a loose corner of the panel, then a simple repair will be required. It is much worse if the panel becomes covered with cracks - in this case the panel will have to be removed.
If you still have to dismantle the panel, it is better to immediately replace it with a European overlay, which looks much more attractive and elegant. In the corresponding section of our website you can find useful articles related to.
Increasingly, instead of a stove, a hob and a separate oven are installed in the kitchen. Built-in appliances fit better into the interior and have a more modern look. Today we will talk about how to repair similar equipment, namely hobs. They are electric, induction and gas. Each type has its own damage, but there are some common points. We will tell you in more detail about the repair of different types of hobs below.
Electric hob repair
In case of any breakdown of the electric and induction hob, the first thing to do is to check whether the power supply is normal. They start with basic things.
Only after you have checked all these parameters should you move on. Repairing a hob should begin by determining the exact nature of the malfunction. From this we can guess what could be the reason.
Disassembling the hob
In order to continue repairing the hob with your own hands, you need to turn it off and dismantle it, then disassemble it and remove the front panel. We turn off the power on the panel by turning off the machine and the RCD on this line. If you used a cord when connecting, remove it from the outlet. After that, we insert a sharp object into the gap between the hob and the countertop and lift it.
By removing the ceramic plate we gain access to the electrical components
If you connected the hob directly or through a block, you need to unscrew the wires. To do this, remove (lift or unscrew) the cover that covers the wires. Before removing them, sketch or better yet take a photo of how the wires are connected. This will make it easier to put everything back in place.
After this, the hob is transferred to the table (covered with a clean cloth so as not to scratch the front panel) and laid face down.
Problems with burners
If all the burners do not heat up, there may be problems with the power supply, but we would have already identified them. What else could it be? The power circuit fuse has blown. This happens during power surges. Find where it is installed and inspect or call, replace if necessary. It costs very little, and is easy to replace - pull the old one out of the holders and install the new one.
If problems with heating the burners began immediately after installing the hob, the reason may be that the wire selected was of insufficient cross-section. Read this article and choose the correct section, connect a new cable or cord.
If one of the burners does not heat up (or heats up weakly), the following faults may be the cause:
Most often, various problems with burners are associated precisely with a malfunction of the temperature sensor or control relay. If one burner does not turn on, after some time it turns off spontaneously, on the contrary, it does not turn off until you turn it off from the network... all this and other similar problems are caused by the incorrect operation of these sensors on a specific burner and you should look there first. There is another option - problems with the control (processor). But they will be described further.
Touchpad problems
Sometimes a malfunction of the hob is caused by incorrect operation of the touch panel. You can understand that this is the case by hearing. Its proper operation is accompanied by sound signals. If they are not there, then something is wrong. The panel does not respond. This may be because the surface and panel are dirty and simply cannot understand that they are being accessed. In this case, you need to wash the panel, wipe it, then try everything again.
Sometimes the control board can malfunction. To fix the problem, turn off the power (turn off the power completely by removing the plug from the socket or turning off the circuit breaker on the panel). We wait 20-30 minutes and turn it on again. A full reboot occurs, perhaps the problem will be solved.
One of the hob control panel options
If all this does not help, you need to disassemble the surface, check the power supply in series, then the existing element base - capacitors, varistors, transformer. If there are no problems here, the repair of the hob is complete for you, since the remaining cause is the microprocessor, but testing it is a job for specialists.
Repair of induction panels
The peculiarity of the induction panel is that the heating is turned on only if there is a special cookware on the burner. It stops immediately after the dishes are removed. That is, you can check whether the burner is working only by placing suitable cookware on it. But, if there are any problems, a message about the device status and an error code are displayed on the control panel. We look at its decoding in the instructions, so we determine the approximate nature of the damage.
It only heats up when there is a certain type of metal utensil (magnetic)
If the surface does not start working
If the stove does not work at all, you should start repairing the induction hob, as described above, by checking the power supply, cord, contacts, etc. First, you need to exclude the simplest options, and then look for further damage.
If nothing is found during inspection, and the induction hob still does not work, turn it off, transfer it to a table with a cloth spread, lay it face down, remove the glass-ceramic panel from it (unscrew the fixing bolts). Most problems with induction furnaces are related to the power unit and breakdown of elements. This is due to voltage surges and to prevent such problems, it is better to install a stabilizer.
We begin the test by testing the power section. These are diode bridges, transistors and a fuse. There is only one fuse - it is easy to find and check.
These are holders for installing a fuse - a glass bulb with a wire inside
Diode bridges and transistors are located next to the radiator and burner control keys. We turn the multimeter into dial mode and check the diode bridges and transistors.
Hob repair: calling transistors and diode bridge
If there is a breakdown, we will hear the device beeping - this element is faulty and must be replaced. We unsolder the old one and install the new one. If it is impossible to find a spare part from the same company, select one with similar characteristics. But there may be problems when soldering, since they may have different dimensions. This is not so important, the performance is important.
When replaced, it may not turn out very nice
After replacement, we check all power circuits for breakdowns and short circuits. We especially carefully check the part that is associated with broken elements - there may still be failed elements. If there is no other damage, we assemble the panel, connect it, and test it.
For a detailed repair process for an AEG (Elektrolux) induction hob, see the following video.
Other problems
The design of this equipment is more complex and there are many possible malfunctions, as well as reasons. Here are the most common problems and methods for eliminating them.
Most problems can be avoided by carefully studying the operating instructions and powering the equipment through a stabilizer. Then repairing the induction hob may not be necessary at all.
Gas hob repair
In a gas hob, you can only repair the electric ignition and gas control system yourself. In principle, the main problems arise with them. Since a gas hob with electric ignition is also connected to electricity, in case of general problems with the electrical part (piezo ignition does not work at all), first check the presence of power in the outlet and inspect the integrity of the wire. If everything is fine here, you can go deeper.
You can repair your gas hob yourself
The electric ignition button does not work (no spark)
Electric ignition is a convenient thing, but periodically the spark stops “jumping” and the fire on some burner does not ignite. You can light it by pressing the button of another burner. They are connected in parallel and when you press one, there is a spark on all burners. But this situation is abnormal and the spark must be restored. Repairing the hob in this case is not very difficult. There are several reasons:
What else can be done is to check the contacts and soldering. If necessary, tighten the contacts or clean them from dirt, solder them, if cold ones are found, re-solder them. How to determine if a solder is cold? If you pry the tin with something hard (the end of a multimeter probe, for example), it moves or flies off, and there may be cracks in it. In this case, heat up the soldering iron and melt the solder again.
After ignition, the flame on the burner goes out
Many modern gas stoves or hobs have a gas control function. Near each burner there is a sensor that monitors the presence of a flame. If there is no flame, the gas supply stops. The function is useful, but sometimes problems arise - after ignition, when you release the power handle, the flame goes out. The fact is that the sensor - thermocouple - is dirty or faulty and “does not see” the flame.
Where is the thermocouple located in a gas stove?
First you need to try cleaning all the sensors. During use, they quickly become overgrown with grease, so they require periodic cleaning. First, turn off the power, remove the burners, remove the handles, and unscrew the front panel. We find a thermocouple on a non-working burner. This is a small metal pin located close to the gas burner. In some models of gas hobs it can simply be inserted, in others there is a lock. You need to remove the sensor from its socket and clean it of dirt. Use regular kitchen dishwashing chemicals or something stronger. It is important to achieve results. We wash the sensors, dry them, and put them in place. You can check your work.
Sometimes it happens that even after cleaning some burners do not work. This means that the thermocouple has failed. In this case, repairing a gas-powered hob involves replacing the thermocouple. You already know how to get to it, but it can be turned off simply: you need to remove the corresponding wires from the block. We take out the old sensor and install a new one. Reinstall the cover and check the operation. That's all, actually.
One important point: if your equipment is under warranty, you should not repair it yourself, otherwise you will be denied warranty repairs.
There are more and more appliances in the house, and willy-nilly you begin to think that it would be nice to be able to fix even simple damage yourself. To help, this article will discuss a simple DIY hob repair. Please note - if the equipment is under warranty, it is better not to mess with it at all. All that is possible in this case is to replace the power cord. In other cases, it is better to contact the service. Well, if there is no warranty for a long time, you can try to repair the hob yourself.
The hob (surface) is the name given to electric and induction hobs with a ceramic or glass-ceramic coating. Under this cover are heating elements- burners. These burners can be of different types:
As you can see, the burners are different and different processes are used to cook food, but general device hobs are the same. To make it easier to look for breakdowns when repairing a hob, you need to know how the equipment works.
Hob device
The main components of the hob are the burners and the control panel. Each burner has contacts for connection and a control relay (thermal relay). Through contacts, the burner is connected to the control panel, and the thermostat monitors the surface heating temperature and turns off/on the power. Problems with burners are most often associated with incorrect operation of the telecontrol or loose/burnt contacts.
The control unit and the burners are connected to each other using wires. This is another source of problems. You can deal with breakdowns of these devices without special skills. You will also need a soldering iron. Since if any element is damaged, it will be necessary to buy an equally good one and install it in its place. When carrying out this work, you should not rely on memory. It's best to take pictures of everything before starting work. Later in the process, also take photos periodically. In any case, every time before you change anything in a node, take a photo of it. It will be easier to install a new element or replace the old one.
The most difficult thing to understand is the breakdown of the control unit. This requires serious knowledge of circuit design. If they are not there, it is better to consult a specialist on this issue.
The location of parts and their shape may be different and depend on the manufacturer, model, but in general structure a hob with electric burners is very similar.
Control problems
The most difficult case is problems with the control board. There is little you can do on your own. How to understand that the control unit is at fault? There is no signal when pressing buttons. If the power turns on, but then there are no sounds or visible changes in status when setting operating modes, most likely there is a control problem. In this case, repairing the hob consists of simple steps.
If the stove does not listen to you, first thoroughly clean the surface - dirt can cause this behavior. Next, you should check your power settings. If the mains voltage is too low, the control operation may be affected.
The control panel is the most difficult area to repair
If the voltage is normal and there are no changes, we try to restart the programs. To do this, turn off the power to the hob. If it is connected through a plug with a socket, remove the plug. Switching off with a button is not enough. If you connected the stove via terminal block, it’s easier to turn off the machine on the dashboard. The stove must remain in a de-energized state for at least 10 minutes. Then you can turn it on and try again. If there was a simple control glitch, this helps, but if the problem is more serious, it doesn’t. If all actions do not bring results, call a specialist.
Do-it-yourself hob repair: what to do if the burner does not turn on
If the burner does not turn on, there may be several reasons:
- burning or weakening of contacts;
- thermal relay malfunction;
- problems with the wires going to this burner;
- heating element burnout.
All these problems can be fixed with your own hands. Hob repair begins with its showdown. It must be unplugged and disconnected from the countertop. Transfer the hob to a table covered with a clean cloth, turn it glass side down, unscrew the fastening bolts located on the sides, carefully hold the ceramics, turn them over and remove the ceramic panel. This way we get access to the insides and can repair the hob with our own hands.
The first thing to do is inspect the wires, which go to the non-working burner, checking contacts. Violation of the integrity of the wires and burning of contacts is very common reason breakdowns. In private homes, the wiring can be chewed by mice, and the contacts can burn due to insufficient quality of assembly. If everything is visually in order, we pull the wires, checking the quality of the contact. If traces of soot are visible somewhere, we disassemble the contact, clean it to bare metal, pack it back, install it and clamp it well. Final stage checking wiring and contacts - measurements. We take a multimeter, check the wires for integrity (we call) and for insulation breakdown (on the body and between each other).
If no abnormalities are found in the wiring, inspect the thermal relay. It is located next to the burner (electromechanical), covered plastic cover. In some models, the relays are located in the control unit (electronic). Then, in order to determine which relay is responsible for heating the burner we need, we track it through the wires.
If the relay is electromechanical, pry off its cover with a screwdriver and inspect the contacts. There may be charred, bent or fused contacts. It must be replaced. If the relay is electronic, there is no point in opening it. We measure its resistance and compare it with standing nearby serviceable. There is a deviation - a replacement is needed.
If everything is fine with the relay, it is possible burnt burner. To check, measure the resistance. If it is large or tends to infinity (break), the problem is in the spiral, heating element, etc. To find a replacement, look for the burner number (written on its body). With this number we go to the store or search on the Internet. Next, repair the hob - replacing the burnt burner. We unsolder all the wires, remove them, install a new one, and connect.
If it doesn't turn on at all
If the equipment does not turn on at all, immediately check the voltage. If the voltage is low, the hob may not turn on. To avoid such situations in the future, it is advisable to install a stabilizer. This will significantly extend the life of the equipment, since electronics are very sensitive to power quality, and electronics are the most difficult to repair (and more expensive).
At normal voltage We will continue repairing the hob inspecting the power cord. Oddly enough, many breakdowns are associated with its damage - frayed, bent, crushed, insulation burst/melted, etc. First, we inspect the cord (disconnecting it from the network), then we check for the integrity of the wires and for insulation breakdown (each wire to the ground and to each other).
Next step - checking the contact in the terminal block. A loose or oxidized contact can also cause the hob to not turn on. What to do in this case? Unscrew the contact, clean it from oxides, and tighten it well again.
If the stove still shows no signs of life, find fuse. It stands at the entrance, burns out during power surges - to protect more expensive parts from damage. It can look different, but most often it is a glass or ceramic tube with metal caps on the edges. Some types of fuses are shown in the photo below. There may be such options.
We found the fuse, then take a multimeter and measure its resistance. It should be small. If the device shows an open circuit (infinitely high resistance), the fuse has blown. Another way is to put the multimeter in test mode and touch the probes to both ends of the fuse. The device is silent - it has burned out.
We take out the blown fuse and replace it with a similar one. Exactly a similar one - with the same parameters (indicated on the case). It is not recommended to install a “bug” or one with less sensitivity - with the next power surge the breakdowns will be much more serious.
Of the easy checks, there is only one left - check is the food arriving? from the terminal block to the control unit. Maybe the wiring is damaged or the contact is loose/lost somewhere. Do this again using a multimeter. We check the wires for integrity (you can do this by testing, or you can by measuring the resistance) and the presence of insulation breakdown (on the body and between each other). If all parameters are normal, you can turn on the power and carefully measure the voltage at the input of the control unit. The voltage is normal, but the hob still does not turn on - the problem is in the control unit. Further repairs to the hob are related to this unit.
According to the induction principle, popular in cooking surfaces, heat is directed to the contents of the pan, rather than to the surface of the stove and utensils in which the dish is being cooked.
These devices, based on technological advances, most often break down like this:
|
The unit turns off immediately after turning on, or does not turn on at all |
|
|
Induction provides low heat |
|
|
The stove lives its own life, turning on by itself, even when there is no frying pan or kettle on the burner |
|
|
The panel doesn't work at all |
Most often, owners of induction panels are concerned about the complete failure of the stove to perform its functions: the kitchen assistant turns off after being turned on, or does not show any signs of life at all. Most often, this situation is caused by improper use of the unit. Simply, the “smart” panel recognizes the wrong one used for cooking and declares a “strike” if you decide to cook food in a saucepan from a material that is not suitable for the unit. Yes, size matters in this case too!
Advice: want to induction cooker pleased with trouble-free operation? Use suitable pots and pans! The instructions for each product describe in detail which utensils can be used on a specific panel. Don’t neglect the advice, and you will be happy in the form of a delicious lunch!
The traditional children's riddle “it shines, but does not heat”, with the spread of induction panels received an unexpected answer: the surface and unsuitable cookware. Poor heating of the induction panel also falls under the category of errors caused by wrong choice dishes. The bottom of the teapots must be perfectly flat. Even millimeter-sized notches or concavities provoke a decrease in the performance of the unit.
Even more offensive, and even more dangerous, is the spontaneous switching on of the panel. Try the following in this situation:
1. Remove knives, forks, spoons, scrapers, foil - anything that contains metal from the cooking surface;
2. Wash the surface, completely removing salt deposits.
Did not help? The control unit is malfunctioning. You can’t do without a specialist here.
The complete absence of any signs of device viability has a number of reasons:
- No power at the outlet. You can check it using any electrical appliance, say, a coffee grinder.
- Blown fuse. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to replace the part.
- Broken contact in the circuit. In this case, it is advisable to contact a specialist.