Homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor made from a bridge. Gearbox for walk-behind tractor: types and self-assembly. Types of converters for walk-behind tractors

The idea of ​​how to make a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor was taken from the “Modelist-Konstruktor” magazine; the design of the unit was redesigned in accordance with the following requirements: eliminate chain drive from the transmission design, ensure the lowest possible center of gravity. Since the necessary gearbox was missing, the transmission was made from spare parts for gears for the Elektron scooter engine.

Walk-behind tractor: 1 – engine; 2 – casing; 3 – gas tank; 4 – ignition coil; 5 – switch; 6 – pin for fixing the angle of inclination of the working body (not shown in the top view); 7 – M16 bolt; 8 – axis of fastening of the working body; 9 – working body (plow); 10 – holder; 11 – frame; 12 – carrier with control handles; 13 – wheel with lugs.

Making a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor

To make a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, parts were taken from the V-150 M engine: crankcase, gears, chain sprockets, as well as an additional gearbox shaft. The crankcase must be cut into two halves and the kickstarter, gearshift mechanism and crank chamber removed from it. You need to install a plug at the kickstarter exit point and weld it using argon welding.


We install the bearing axle box of the right running wheel of the walk-behind tractor into the left half of the crankcase. A spare crankcase of the same engine is used as an axle box.

A part of the V-150 M engine crankcase is also used as the left cover, which is supplemented with one part - a duralumin bushing. The bushing is pressed into the crank chamber and has a hole corresponding to the diameter of the engine output shaft shank.

Walk-behind tractor chassis

  • 1 – right wheel;
  • 2 – left wheel;
  • 3 – first gear gear;
  • 4 – drive shaft;
  • 5- gearbox;
  • 6 – drive gear;
  • 7 – bushing;
  • 8 – locking screw;
  • 9 – drive shaft housing;
  • 10 – axle box flange;
  • 11 – nut and bolt M8;
  • 12 – splined bushing;
  • 13 – shaft;
  • 14 – M14 nuts;
  • 15 – washer;
  • 16 – oil seal;
  • 17,18 – bearings;
  • 19 – engine.

Walk-behind tractor drive shaft

  • 1,2 – cantilever parts of the shaft (from the secondary shafts of the V-150 M gears);
  • 3 – gear (from the first gear gear V-150M);
  • 4 – front part of the shaft (bar d22 mm);
  • 5 – cut-off collar.

The motor and gearbox are fixed relative to each other using an M10 screw.

How to make a homemade walk-behind tractor with an ant gearbox

A two-stage chain gearbox is designed to reduce the rotation speed and increase the torque transmitted from the output shaft of the power unit of the walk-behind tractor to the wheels or cutters.

Chain gear drawing

1 - body made of channel No. 20); 2 - cover made of Art. sheet s5); 3 - gasket made of oil and petrol resistant technical plate) 4 - second stage drive sprocket (z = 11, t = 19.05); 5-key; 6 - bearing 206 (2 pcs.); 7- compensation sleeve; 8 - shaft; 9 - nut M22x1.5 with a spring washer; 10 - oil seal; 11 - spacer bushing with keyway; 12-eccentric bearing housing (StZ, 2 pcs.); 13 - M8 screw with spring washer (30 pcs.);

14 - driven sprocket of the second stage (z = 25, t = 19.05); 15- bearing 3008 (2 pcs.); 16 - bearing housing; 17 - sealing sleeve; 18 - left axle shaft; 19-oil drain plug (M10 screw); 20 - bottom of the body from Art. sheet s4); 21 - oil filler plug (screw Ml0); 22,23 - oil seals (2 pieces each); 24 - right axle shaft; 25 - M6 fixing screws (8 pcs.); 26 - M8 bolt; 27 - chain t = 19.05; 28 - driven sprocket of the first stage (z = 57, t = 12.7); 29 - spacer sleeve

The first stage of the gearbox includes two sprockets with 17 and 57 teeth, respectively, with a pitch of 12.75 mm. The drive sprocket with 17 teeth sits on the output shaft of the power unit, the driven sprocket sits on the outer flange of the second stage input shaft.

The second stage of the gearbox is reinforced and has a drive sprocket of 11 teeth and a driven sprocket of 25 teeth, a tooth pitch of 19.05 mm. Since during the operation of the walk-behind tractor, the second stage is located close to the cultivated soil, it is protected from dust by a closed crankcase, which is directly connected by welding to the cross members, and the crankcase side members are connected by welding through steel spacers.

A strut is welded between the crankcase and the cross member for reliability. The crankcase is welded from two channels No. 2 with shelves that are reduced in length to 35 mm. In the lower parts, the walls of the channels have the shape of a semicircle; instead of cut shelves, a bottom is welded from a 4 mm steel sheet, which is curved along the walls of the channels in the shape of a semi-cylinder. The top of the crankcase is closed with a cover with a gasket made of oil- and petrol-resistant technical plate.

Two coaxial holes d = 100 mm were made in both walls for bearing housings. Around each of them there are six other threaded holes with M8 threads, the purpose of which is to fasten the housings to the crankcase. The lower axle shaft bearings have normal housings, while the upper shaft bearings have eccentric housings. By rotating them around their axis by at least 15°, the tension of the chain of the second stage of the gearbox is adjusted in steps.

The shaft of the second stage of the gearbox is mounted in two ball bearings 206. By means of two spacers, the drive sprocket is fixed exactly in the middle between the inner walls of the crankcase and connected to the shaft by means of a feather key. On the centering boss of the right axle shaft sits a large driven sprocket, secured with six M8 bolts between the opposing flanges of the axle shafts. Bottom part The large driven sprocket and part of the chain are constantly immersed in oil.

When the walk-behind tractor engine is running, the moving chain transfers oil to the upper part of the crankcase - thus lubrication of the rubbing parts of the second stage is organized. To prevent oil leakage, oil seals are provided in the bearing housings. A rigid flange connection of the axle shafts forms a single shaft mounted in two 308 ball bearings.

Homemade gearbox for walk-behind tractor photo selection

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A gearbox for a walk-behind tractor is equipment with the help of which the torque generated from mechanical gears is converted and transmitted and makes the machine work.

The service life of the walk-behind tractor and the quality of its work depend on the quality of the gearbox.

What types of mechanisms are there?

The walk-behind tractor gearbox can be of several types.

Corner mechanisms

Equipment of this type is known for its high efficiency, and ensures that the transmission is connected to the engine. The angular gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, the price of which is at the optimal level, can be modified by the owner of the walk-behind tractor, which will significantly increase the power of the element.

The main components of the mechanism are:

  • generator housing;
  • flange;
  • flange mounting;
  • steel key and washer;
  • pulley mount;
  • a pulley having a V-belt transmission type;
  • rotor shaft;
  • flange bearing etc.

You can make such mechanisms yourself with minimal knowledge and skills.

Gear and reduction gearboxes

A reduction gearbox is used to reduce the number of revolutions and increase power.

These types of equipment are the most modern and reliable, as they are additionally equipped with a special cooling system that uses air in its operation. The machines can withstand any type of load and perform many different functions. Even large-scale potato beds are not an obstacle to the mechanisms.

Gear reducers have a fairly simple structure. Their transmission acts as a transmitter between the engine and the wheels. The advantages of the mechanism include reliability and ease of use.

Reverse gearbox


The gearbox coupling is located between bevel gears, which are freely placed on the main shaft. All this is called a reversal scheme, which is not very complex.

The main advantage of the equipment is the ability to reverse. Among the disadvantages of the mechanism, it is worth noting its low productivity and the inability to achieve high speeds.

How to create a gearbox for a walk-behind tractor engine with your own hands?

A gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, a photo of which can be found on the website, is quite easy to make. This applies to the corner type of equipment, which is widely used.

The mechanism can be made from ready-made samples, which are taken from Dnepr or Ural motorcycles.

To work you need to acquire the following equipment:

  • calipers and ruler;
  • straight and oblique screwdrivers;
  • metal file;
  • wire cutters and pliers;
  • vices and hammers;
  • rubber gaskets and other tools that may be needed during the work process.


The construction of a walk-behind tractor gearbox begins with the preparation of the housing. As a rule, a 2-inch fitting elbow is used as it. The body can also be made by hand by welding metal plates. Very often, for this purpose, the factory shaft of the Ural generator is used and it is modified properly.

The gears necessary for the gearbox can be taken from the Druzhba 4 chainsaw. You need to cut off the end stop of one gear shaft and drill a hole of the required diameter in it.
The second gear shaft, complete with bearings and race, must be mounted in the housing of the future mechanism on the opposite side. The craftsman needs to install a pulley on the output shaft, which will ensure rotation using a V-belt drive.

The fan bearings are attached to the hood ramp by welding.

Which gear oil is best to use?


Oil in the walk-behind tractor gearbox is the key to high-quality and reliable operation equipment. Choosing suitable option, you should first study the instructions. It is very important to consider the conditions in which the equipment will be used, as well as the loads it will have to withstand. One of the most popular brands of oil is MOTUL, which is used by owners of walk-behind tractors almost throughout the country.

Gearbox for walk-behind tractor price: what does it depend on?

The cost of the gearbox is influenced by the following factors:

  • the number of functions performed by the walk-behind tractor;
  • quality and reliability of the device;
  • manufacturer;
  • power;
  • possibility of reversing;
  • design features and much more.

As you can see, the walk-behind tractor gearbox is enough complex design, without which it is simply impossible for the gearbox to operate. Having a certain set of skills, you can make the equipment yourself. For those who do not have the required talent, modern market offers a wide range quality models at a variety of prices.

A lot has been said about the benefits of a walk-behind tractor in subsidiary farming. If funds allow, they buy it. If you want to save money, make it yourself.

At first glance, this is a complex technical device that can only be made in a factory. In fact, homemade walk-behind tractor with a gearbox from “Ant”, quite often found in the yards of home-grown farmers.

If you understand the design and have a basic locksmith kit in your home:

then you can build a self-propelled one iron horse literally from scavenged materials. To do this, you need to understand how the design works.

Motoblock device. Main design elements

  1. Frame or stand. The engine, torque transmission system to the wheels, suspension and traction device are mounted on it. attachments;
  2. Power unit. Its power can be small, from 5 to 10 horsepower. Engines from mopeds, motorcycles, compressors and even chainsaws are used;
  3. Suspension. As a rule, primitive. Consists of homemade wheels or ready-made from agricultural machinery. Sometimes automobile or motorcycle ones are used. Can be axial or portal;
  4. Gearbox for walk-behind tractor. One of the most important parts of the structure. Designed to reduce drive shaft speed with a simultaneous linear increase in torque. Quite often, a gearbox from a car or scooter is used as a gearbox.

However the best option There will be a homemade gearbox. It does not need to be interfaced with a power plant, since the calculation is made for specific tasks, and you are not limited to a ready-made technical solution.

How to make a gearbox for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

First you need to decide on the parameters of the power plant. The technical specifications indicate the number of crankshaft revolutions. This is the first quantity needed for calculations. This figure is not constant; when adding gas, the speed increases. Idle speed + 10% is taken as the base value.

For example, revolutions idle speed of your motor + 10% is 600 rpm. The required wheel axle speed for a speed of 3 km/h is 200 rpm. Accordingly, your gearbox for a walk-behind tractor should have a gear ratio of 3:1.

I think there is no particular need to talk about the benefits of the gearbox. Everyone already understands everything perfectly well. 🙂 With its help, you can change the number of revolutions of the engine shaft or change the amount of torque. The article describes in detail how and from what you can make a gearbox with your own hands. The articles How to make a pulley with your own hands and Educational program Belt drive will help you understand the material presented below in more detail.

Location: Simferopol

Subject of the E+M channel: Manufacturing of mechanisms and electronic devices from improvised means, with minimum costs! The channel presents lessons on physics, mechanics and electronics, which will be needed for independent construction and understanding of the operating principle of homemade devices.

Materials:

  • bicycle spoke
  • bushing motor
  • wooden slats
  • tin
  • CD boxes
  • linoleum
  • sheet plastic
  • rubber band for money
  • superglue
  • hot melt adhesive
  • screwdriver;
  • telescopic antenna;
  • square;
  • compass;
  • awl;

Gearbox drawings

How to make a gearbox for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands?

The design of modern walk-behind cultivators involves the presence of only a few main parts, allowing the walk-behind tractor to be as easy to use as possible.

And if there are no questions about such details as cutters or a plow, then the gearbox for a motor-cultivator is a topic of interest for discussion among users of motor-cultivators.

Owners often ask questions about what kind of oil to pour into a walk-behind tractor gearbox or even how to make a gearbox themselves.

The attention paid to aspects of using the walk-behind tractor gearbox does not cease for a second.

What is a gearbox (regulator, converter)?

A gearbox is a mechanism that is used to convert torque and then transmit it to the machine shafts. The means of controlling this process are mechanical transmissions. In fact, the gearbox is that part of the walk-behind tractor, the quality of which determines how long the cultivator will serve you.

Types of converters for walk-behind tractors

After the gardening equipment has received widespread, there was a need to optimize various types mechanisms for different purposes. This trend could not but affect the regulator.

In the assembly of walk-behind tractors in the budget segment, as a rule, non-dismountable gearboxes are installed.

Naturally, such units are cheap for the manufacturer, because the materials from which they are made are of low quality.

Duration of service similar devices tends to last approximately one season, after which the regulator can be sent for scrap.

This is not surprising, because they are not collapsible, because they have a closed structure that cannot be repaired, and each breakdown leads to a complete replacement of the mechanism. In turn, collapsible converters are installed on middle and premium class cultivators.

Homemade gearbox for walk-behind tractor

Of course, the materials from which their mechanisms are made are much more resistant to various types of deformation; they are also able to withstand aggressive environments without reacting with them, and as a result, are not subject to corrosion.

But the main advantage of collapsible converters is their constant readiness for repair in the event of failure of one or more parts of the walk-behind tractor gearbox.

Is it worth mentioning that gear oil is used in accordance with its type and quality of its performance.

In summary, we highlight the following types of converters:

  • angular;
  • downward;
  • gear;
  • reverse

Gearbox of the Neva MB-2 walk-behind tractor

The angle converter is used in mechanical engineering; it can be found in some cars or even industrial equipment, for example, in factories. Its presence in the walk-behind tractor design makes it possible to use the device under heavy loads.

This converter is suitable for those types of cultivators where the transmission and engine are connected with the expectation of a chain.

A buck converter is sometimes called a speed reducer (colloquial form). Its main purpose is to add power when, for example, the wheels begin to slip while plowing potatoes. It is used in buildings with gasoline and diesel walk-behind tractors, the engines of which are cooled by air flows.

Gear converters are used in the systems of heavy walk-behind tractors or even cars. Since the transmission consists of a gearbox, differentials and the regulator itself, and its components are presented in the form of gears, belts, etc., the gear transmission uses this converter based precisely on the features of its structure.

Walk-behind tractor gear chains

Reverse got its name thanks to the reversing scheme, with the help of which converters of this type received their main trump card over other types, namely, the ability to use reverse gear in a walk-behind tractor. By the way, reverse is not highly productive and will not be able to provide your cultivator with high operating speeds.

Do-it-yourself gearbox for a walk-behind tractor

Enthusiastic farmers are wondering: how to make a geared walk-behind tractor with your own hands? The question is relevant, since making such a miracle from materials and parts available on the farm is sometimes easier and cheaper than purchasing a regulator assembled by the manufacturer at the factory.

Indeed, in the “invention” of the converter there are no super complex manipulations, and a tool made on a walk-behind tractor with your own hands always serves correctly, however, first of all, you should acquire some tools:

  • screwdrivers (straight and oblique type);
  • hacksaw (for metal);
  • pliers or pliers;
  • vice;
  • some other tools and consumables, the presence of which one way or another may be needed during the assembly process.

Assembly, or rather, preparation of the converter begins with welding the housing. It can be made of metal plates. Sometimes they use a housing from the Ural shaft with its subsequent modification.

DIY walk-behind tractor gearbox

For gears, you can turn to the Friendship chainsaw (4).

In this case, the end of one of the shafts is cut off and a hole of the required diameter is drilled, while a second shaft is installed on the opposite side of the future gearbox, and with it bearings and a cage. The output shaft must be secured to the pulley.

Oil in the walk-behind tractor gearbox

Just like any mechanism, the lubricant to be filled is individually suitable for the geared walk-behind tractor. Its quality directly affects the performance of the cultivator. Depending on the conditions of use, you should choose the oil individually, but fortunately, universal brands like Motul come to the rescue, and the user can’t go wrong with the purchase.

Prices

Of course, not all people are enthusiastic about assembling a converter at home. Therefore, for those who find purchasing a gearbox more profitable than designing it themselves, there are online stores that sell these mechanisms.

The average price for them ranges from 12 to 15 thousand rubles.

However, there are also much more expensive models. What matters is how pricing is structured. And, above all, the price depends on the number of functions that the converter is equipped with. You can't ignore the quality of its build - it also greatly affects the cost. Power and the ability to use reverse are also important.

This general characteristics gearbox, but there are many more of them. From which it follows that the gearbox on a walk-behind tractor is a complex mechanism, the choice of which should not be mistaken.

Do-it-yourself reduction gear for a walk-behind tractor

One of the most important elements of a walk-behind tractor is the drive. If you need to purchase a gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, then know that the service life of the entire unit will depend on its reliability. The gearbox for a walk-behind tractor (made with your own hands) is designed to convert and transmit torque, which it receives from mechanical gears and makes agricultural machinery work.

How to make a gearbox for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

There are differences in several important characteristics between worm and chain gearboxes for a walk-behind tractor: gear ratio, efficiency, number of shafts and gears, angular speeds and power.

What types of gearboxes are there for a walk-behind tractor?

Non-separable gearboxes are usually installed on cheap walk-behind tractors. The design of such a unit is not particularly reliable. It also has a short service life. In addition, it is impossible to carry out repairs or disassembly and assembly. In the manufacture of such units, low-quality metal and unlined parts are used. In order to understand why it is impossible to use the gearbox for a long time, you need to familiarize yourself with its diagram.

It is customary to install collapsible gearboxes on expensive walk-behind tractors. Thanks to this, you can disassemble the walk-behind tractor gearbox and carry out maintenance. The walk-behind tractor gearbox is repaired to increase service life, if high-quality spare parts are used when replacing faulty elements.

It is imperative to regularly diagnose the gearbox in order to repair the necessary unit in time. The gearbox should also be lubricated regularly, which will allow the unit to be used much longer. Most often, a gearbox for a walk-behind tractor is used to ensure high angular velocity was transformed into a low one. The input shaft has a high speed and the output shaft has a low speed.

To avoid unexpected breakdowns, it is necessary to carry out regular maintenance, which will allow you to operate your agricultural machine successfully. If the angular velocity changes stepwise, the gearbox is called a gearbox, but if the change occurs steplessly, it is called a variator.

Homemade bevel gear for walk-behind tractor

You can make the walk-behind tractor yourself. To do this, you will need to calculate the rated power (Pn); Pn = Pe (hp) x FS, as a result of which it is determined for the bevel gear correct type corner. Torque and revolutions per minute are also calculated.

You also need to determine the operating conditions of a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, which includes: radial and axial load on the ends of the shafts, minimum and maximum temperatures, determination of environmental conditions, intermittent or non-interrupted operating cycle, type of lubricant.

After determining the technical parameters, you can start collecting bevel gear. To do this, you need to select a housing for the angular gearbox.

For example, you can use the factory one, from a Ural or Dnepr motorcycle. Then, based on the diameter of the gearbox housing, we make the gear shaft bearing housing from steel. Here we use an appropriately sized drill and caliper. Then, in accordance with the planned dimensions, we select the gear shaft bearings (2 pcs).

On back side We install a steel flange for the gearbox. It will have a steel washer and a flange bearing inside. Using several screws, we attach the steel flange to the generator housing. Before this, we select the driven gear shaft, steel key and drive gear. All components are connected to the transmission mechanism and the shaft of the rotary generator. The V-belt pulley is located on the transmission mechanism and is attached to the driven pinion shaft with a nut and a spring washer. To assemble a homemade bevel gear, you will need the following tools: calipers and ruler, straight and Phillips screwdrivers, metal drills, files and metal files, wire cutters and pliers, rubber gaskets, a vice and a hammer.

Angular gearbox for walk-behind tractor

Angular gearboxes are widely used in motorcycle equipment: in the automotive industry, modified cultivators, and industry.

How to make a walk-behind tractor from a cultivator

When installing an angular reduction gearbox on walk-behind tractors, more efficient operation is achieved under heavy loads.

This type of gearbox is usually used to connect the engine to a transmission designed for a chain. The angular gearbox for the walk-behind tractor is made from existing samples, similar ones are installed on Dnepr or Ural motorcycles. Then the gearbox will need to be modified.

Main elements of an angular gearbox

The components of the angular gearbox are: generator housing, flange bearing, rotor shaft, steel washer, steel flange, bevel drive gear, angular gear housing, steel key, pinion shaft bearings (2 pcs), driven gear shaft, steel bearing housing gear shaft, pulley mount, V-belt pulley, flange mount.

Walk-behind tractors with a gear reducer and a reduction gearbox for a walk-behind tractor

A reduction gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, in common parlance a speed reducer, is installed on modern air-cooled diesel and gasoline walk-behind tractors. Thanks to this, the user can use the walk-behind tractor on particularly heavy soils for plowing and digging up potatoes. The reduction gear helps with wheel slipping when there is not enough own power.

Motoblocks with gear reducer

To understand what a gear reducer is, let’s look at the structure of the transmission. It transmits torque from the engine to the wheels, and changes the speed and direction of movement of the walk-behind tractor. The transmission consists of a gearbox, differential, gearbox and clutch. Transmission units can be gear, chain, belt, or a combination of one or the other. The gear transmission consists of bevel and spur gears (gear reducer). It is used on some car models and heavy walk-behind tractors. The figure shows the gear transmission of the Ugra NMB-1 walk-behind tractor, which uses a gear reducer.

Reverse gearbox for walk-behind tractor

In a reverse gearbox, reversal is performed according to the following scheme: there is a clutch between the opposite bevel gears, which sit freely on the drive shaft.

Being in extreme positions, it clings to the splines on these gears. Therefore, when the clutch engages, the direction of rotation of the gear changes. The gears must be of the helical type. The clutch drive mechanism is a traditional fork or cam.

motoblok-cultivator.com

Do-it-yourself angular gearbox

Angular gearboxes are widely used in motorcycle equipment, especially modified cultivators, in the automotive industry, industry, for example, on valves, etc. The installed angular reduction gearbox on walk-behind tractors helps to achieve efficient operation under heavy loads.

This type of gearbox is usually used to connect an engine with a longitudinal crankshaft to a transmission designed for a chain. You can make an angular gearbox with your own hands from existing samples, say, like on the Soviet Ural or Dnepr motorcycle. In this case, you will need to make a number of modifications that would meet your goals for further use gearbox

There are also available samples of angle-type gearboxes on sale, but they do not always fit the stated criteria of each buyer; the gearbox greatly reduces the speed, has a low gear ratio, or is not at all suitable in size for coupling with other mechanisms.

The second option is to make an angular gearbox yourself (angular gear motor). In this case, let's figure out what basic elements the gearbox consists of.

To assemble the bevel gear you will need:

Phillips and straight screwdriver;

Ruler and caliper;

Set of metal drills;

Needles and files for metal;

Pliers and wire cutters;

Rubber gaskets;

Hammer and vice;

And other tools, depending on the size and type of bevel gear selected.

Homemade bevel gear with your own hands - step-by-step assembly process

Determination of operating conditions includes a number of factors, such as the type of operating cycle (intermittent, continuous), radial and axial loads on the ends of the shafts, maximum and minimum temperature, environmental conditions (eg dust and dirt levels) and type of lubricant. Once you have determined what technical parameters you need, we proceed to assembling the bevel gear.

Angular gear diagram

Diagram of an angular gearbox of a forced system air cooling

1 - housing (used from a generator from a Ural motorcycle);

2- rotary generator shaft without winding (used from the Ural motorcycle);

3 - flange bearing;

4 - flange (steel);

5 - washer (steel);

6-angular gearbox housing (2″ plumbing fitting elbow);

7- bevel drive gear (used from the gearbox of the Druzhba-4 chainsaw);

8-key (steel);

9- driven gear shaft;

10-gear shaft bearing (2 pcs.);

11-housing for two gear shaft bearings (steel);

12-pulley V-belt transmission of forced air cooling system;

13-pulley fastening (spring washer with nut);

14-fastening the flange to the body (screw 3 pcs.)

Let's start assembling

As an example, let's take detailed description manufacturing an angular gearbox for a homemade mini-tractor with an “articulated” frame. In this case, an angular gearbox is used for a forced air cooling system.

The cylinders of the power unit are equipped with an air cooling system. At the first stage, cooling was carried out using a general fan, but it was not effective. After this, the cooling system was modernized - each cylinder had its own impeller installed.

In this case, a 2″-inch fitting-plumbing elbow is used as the bevel gear housing. You can also make the housing for the bevel gear yourself by welding it from metal plates or select the appropriate size. Since the drive is connected through an angular gearbox (in our case, going to the fan), it can be made from a modified factory shaft of the Ural generator. The gears used in the bevel gear can be taken from the corresponding unit in the Druzhba 4 chainsaw. They just need to be modified. In one gear-shaft it is necessary to cut off the limit switch, after which we drill and grind holes in it to the corresponding diameter of the rotor-generator shaft we need. Next we put it on and weld it.

We install the second gear shaft, complete with race and bearings, into the bevel gear housing on the opposite side. On the output shaft of our bevel gearbox, a pulley will be mounted that transmits rotation directly through a V-belt drive (as shown in the diagram above), onto each pulley of the two fans that are located above each engine cylinder. We weld the fan bearing races to the hood ramp. Pulleys taken from washing machine, the fans in this case were used from the heating radiator of a UAZ-469 car.

Cottage and dacha

Choosing a cultivator for your garden

There are many tips and recommendations regarding the criteria for choosing a cultivator related to its technical characteristics (power, engine type, the ability to install additional equipment, weight, etc.) or the size of the land that needs to be cultivated. But these are not the only criteria that should be taken into account when purchasing a cultivator in order not to encounter unpleasant consequences. wrong choice. We are talking about the specifics of the soil that is to be cultivated, since different types of soil require different approaches to processing. In addition, the power and model of the cultivator required to work on it will largely depend on what type of soil predominates on your plot of land.

So, the first type of soil is sandy. It's light and poor on nutrients soils that are easy to process. Their advantage is that processing does not require much effort. Thus, if you are cultivating an area with sandy soil, then you will not need to shell out money for a very powerful cultivator, but you will be able to get by with purchasing a medium or even light model. Last option it would be appropriate if you have small plot, the area of ​​which does not exceed ten acres.

If its size is larger, then you should pay attention to models with average power.

The second type of soil is clayey. It is very heavy, dense, poorly permeable to moisture, has low air permeability, as a result of which it requires frequent loosening or aeration. This type of soil is quite difficult to cultivate, and taking into account the fact that it needs it more often than other types of soil, it follows that its cultivation requires a cultivator with high power ratings. Thus, if on your plot of land heavy clay or loamy soil types predominate; you cannot do without the help of a heavy or medium model of a cultivator, which has sufficient power to cope with the difficult and frequent work of cultivating it.

Working with virgin soil requires special attention. If you are planning to master new site, which has not previously been processed for a long time, and use a gasoline cultivator for this, then take into account the fact that the unit must have high engine power and be heavy (from 60 kg). This technique can cope not only with virgin soil, but also with other types of difficult-to-cultivate soils (rocky, clayey).

Also watch the video - How to work on a cultivator with a rotary cutter.

All by yourself and with your own hands

For several years now I have been using a homemade one for hilling and weeding between rows in a potato field. motor cultivator. Despite the fact that its adhesive weight (and therefore the developed traction) is clearly less than that of a mini-tractor, I am satisfied with my motorized assistant. Although sometimes you have to put in extra effort to push the unit forward when working on heavy soils. In general, it turned out to be a reliable and compact car.

And I think the possibility of quickly converting it into an even more compact state (during transportation and storage) additional advantage. After all, the real operating conditions for our mini-tillage equipment are such that they are more often idle than they are working. Winter is long, and garden plots, land plots are located far from garages and storage rooms where this equipment is usually stored.

The motor cultivator is assembled on a welded frame, where an engine with an air cooling system, a muffler, an air filter and a starter from a Druzhba chainsaw, a fuel tank, an intermediate shaft of a two-stage chain drive, a drive wheel, and a bracket for mounted implements. There are no problems with storage and transportation, since motor cultivator folding. First of all, you must unscrew the upper M10 bolt (see the diagram for the location of components and parts) and fold the control handles along the upper rack.

Then, unscrewing a couple of nuts and removing the corresponding bolt from the bracket for attaching the main rack to the frame, rotate the bracket and, tilting the rack forward until it stops against the channel cross member of the frame, proceed to the following two elementary operations: disconnecting the bracket for attaching attachments (unscrew the three bolts from below) and removing the drive wheel. By loosening the tension, you can also remove the chain connecting the drive wheel to the intermediate shaft of the two-stage transmission, and then, by slightly unscrewing the nuts securing the drive wheel axle, release it from the grooves.

Putting the motor cultivator into working condition is in the reverse order. Other design features include a chain tension adjustment system. In the first stage, adjustment is made by moving the intermediate shaft assembly along the frame guide beam. First, loosen the two nuts on the clamp securing the intermediate shaft.

Making it yourself: the simplest models of electric cultivator

Then move the shaft together with the clamp along the guide.

And having found the optimal position, secure it firmly. Only then tighten the second stage of the chain drive using a special sprocket. The ball bearings of the intermediate shaft are fixed axially by spacers, which are installed between the corresponding sprocket hubs and bearings. The sprocket z2=48 was taken ready-made from an “adult” bicycle (only the pedal arms were cut off). Together with the hub, it is secured to the intermediate shaft with a wedge.

The sprocket z3=10 is from an old modification of a bicycle engine (after preliminary riveting, it is welded to a homemade hub and fixed to the axle with the same wedge). The chains are bicycle chains, but if possible, it is better to replace them with stronger ones. For example, from a moped or motorcycles “Minsk”, “Voskhod” (the pitch of these chains is the same). Now about the drive wheel assembly. The z4 =48 sprocket available here is also a bicycle sprocket.

It is attached to the outer flange of the hub with six M6 bolts. And the drive wheel disk, made of a steel sheet 15 mm thick, is “tightly” screwed to the inner flange of the hub with M8 bolts. The drive wheel has eleven welded lugs with a “helmet” profile. They are made of steel plates 3…5 mm thick. The height of each is 38 mm, the apex angle is 110°. The ends of the lugs are cut 18 mm into the wheel disk and welded to it.

Nylon (fluoroplastic) bushings are inserted into the hub on both sides, acting as plain bearings. The fuel tank was taken from an old motor bike. It is very convenient, as it has a decent volume of 2.5 liters, good fastening and a neck with a lid that ensures tightness during transportation. One filling of such a tank with fuel is enough to cultivate three plots of land of 6 acres each. To control the clutch, a factory handle with a “squeezed” state lock is used, which is necessary for starting and warming up the engine. “Gas” is regulated by a lever from an old motorcycle decompressor.

As a power plant motor cultivator and the D4 engine of a motor bicycle is used. It is modified and equipped with starting and forced air cooling systems. The essence of the modification is that under the bolt securing the drive gear to the crankshaft (on the right side of the engine), a fan drive pulley with a ratchet for the starting system is installed. Everything is approximately the same as in technical solutions, a description of which can be found in “Model Designer” (No. 8?79, 8?84, 2?87, 10?90).

A pulley with a rubber belt transmits rotation to the impeller axial fan, mounted on the engine head. The gear ratio of such a drive is i=0.5. The diameter of the fan impeller is 110 mm, the number of blades is 6. The fan is installed on two 200 bearings. A 2-mm steel plate with a centering (relative to the drive gear) belt is screwed to the clutch cover, and a coil with two mounting flanges is screwed to the plate.

One of them is used to attach the starter from the Druzhba chain saw. In addition, the modified engine has had the clutch lever replaced. It is made shaped, because the intermediate shaft drive chain goes up from the engine, and not down, as on mopeds. For the same reason, the upper partition of the cover covering the drive sprocket was also cut out. The exhaust pipe is shortened and rotated 180°. Used as a hiller manual cultivator(store-bought) with extended sides.

Based on the publications of the “Model Designer”, a small plow was also made, but its performance has not yet been tested. He cultivated the land with what he had already become thoroughly accustomed to. Moreover, he tried to help his hard worker - motor cultivator move forward with the greatest depth of the hiller.

However, the latter is not necessary: ​​you can walk twice over the treated area, but with minimal effort. After all, a modified and well-maintained engine develops quite a lot of torque. And if something happens, the wheel will simply slip without overloading the power unit. And one more piece of advice. During operation motor cultivator and wash the air filter every five hours of operation - you can’t go wrong.

Kinematic diagram motor cultivator A.

Motor cultivator layout ( protective covers removed): 1,2 - control handles, 3 - Ml0 bolt with nut (installed when the cultivator is in working order, 10 pairs), 4 - main stand, 5 - attachment rod for mounting attachments (2 pcs.), 6 - main stand mounting bracket , 7 - frame, 8 - second stage chain tensioning mechanism, 9 - intermediate shaft assembly, 10 - fuel tank, 11 - fan, 12 - muffler, 13 - air filter, 14 - D4 engine, 15 - drive wheel assembly, 16 - bracket mounting of mounted implements, 17 - working tool (cultivator or small plow).

Intermediate shaft assembly: 1 - hub with a pressed sprocket from a bicycle, 2 fastening wedge (2 pcs.), 3 - intermediate shaft (steel 45), 4 - housing (steel 20), 5 - clamp for fastening to the frame (spring steel) , 6 - ball bearing 80203 (2 pcs.), 7 - spacer sleeve ( steel pipe, L12, 2 pcs.), 8 - hub (steel 45), 9 - sprocket from the D6 engine, 10 - frame beam.

Frame: 1 - rear cross member, 2 - bushing (StZ, 2 pcs.), 3 - rear strut, 4 - frame guide beam (channel 33×23.5×3 bent steel), 5 - gas tank support, 6 - middle strut , 7 - front strut, 8 - front cross member, 9 - side members, 10 - drive wheel axle brackets (STZ); det. 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 - steel pipe 26.8x2.5.

Main strut: 1 - spar (steel pipe 21.3×2.5 1.690, 2 pcs.). 2 — bracket for side handles (St3.sheet.s3, 4 pcs). 3 — M10 nut, 4 — central bracket (StZ sheet s3), 5 — cross member (steel pipe 21.3×2.5, L200).

Drive wheel assembly: 1 - drive wheel axle (steel 45), 2 - M12 nut (2 pcs.), 3 - Grover washer (2 pcs.), 4 - bracket for the left frame spar, 5 - bushing (nylon or fluoroplastic, 2 pcs.), 6 - double hub (steel 45), 7 - M8 bolt (6 pcs.), 8 - drive wheel disk (StZ), 9 - lug (St5, 11 pcs.), 10 - M6 bolt (6 pcs. .), 11 - bicycle sprocket, 12 - right frame spar.

Left control handle: 1 - handle (from the motorcycle). 2 - clutch lever with latch (for the right handle - throttle control lever), 3 - rod (steel pipe), 4 - tip (StZ).

Main rack mounting bracket (StZ, strip 22×3).

Chain tensioning mechanism axis (steel 45).

Bracket for attaching mounted implements: 1 - cross member (40×40 angle), 2, 3 - left and right rods (40×40 angle), 4 - plate (StZ, sheet, s5).

Details of the chain tension mechanism: a - lever (StZ, strip 22×4, 2 pcs.), b - clamp (StZ, strip 20×1.5, 2 pcs.).

A cultivator is equipment necessary for any farmer. It allows you to cultivate the soil without turning out large layers of soil, without disturbing its fertile layer.

But it has one important drawback - its cost. Therefore, quite often in the vastness of our country you can find a manual or electric cultivator made by yourself.

What materials are needed

Making a cultivator with your own hands for a tractor, mini-tractor or walk-behind tractor is an extremely simple matter, all that matters is the desire and the necessary tool. For assembly you will need:

  • compact grinder;
  • metal discs;
  • welding machine and electrodes for it;
  • emery with two discs that have different abrasive values;
  • drill and a set of various drills for it.

The materials from which the cultivator will be made are also required:

  • metal square plates, the size of which depends on the specific model of the walk-behind tractor (most often, 15x15 cm plates are sufficient);
  • flat rectangular plates, which will act as cutters. Their length and width also depend on the specific walk-behind tractor model. Optimal size is 25 cm long and 4 cm wide;
  • bolts and nuts in the amount of 16 pieces (in pairs);
  • long tube made of durable steel.

When selecting materials, it is important to consider next factor: They must not only be very durable, but also resistant to corrosion.

This is important, since during cultivation, moisture will be present on the working surfaces, which is a strong oxidizing agent.

Once everything you need is prepared, you can begin assembly. Using a metal drill, make a hole in each square and rectangular plate.

After this, you need to combine them so that there is one cutter on each side of the square. They are fastened to the bases using bolts suitable size.

If such fasteners are not available, welding can be used. But in this case, the connection will not be very strong, so a hand-made disc cultivator will only be able to process loose black soil.

A mounted cultivator, which is necessary for cultivating difficult soils, must be as durable as possible, since when working on rocky or clayey soil, the working part (mills and their base) bears the maximum load.

It is cut in half and a platform with cutters is “put on” each part. It can be fastened either with bolts or by contact welding.

Upon completion of the above operation, it is necessary to attach both parts homemade cultivator to the walk-behind tractor shaft. This is best done using a metal drill and bolts of the appropriate diameter.

The tube with cutters and the walk-behind tractor shaft are drilled through.

After completing the assembly, you should check the reliability of all connections, and then you can safely begin testing the cultivator.

What you need to make a cultivator from a chainsaw with your own hands

This type of technology is quite expensive. If there is a lack of finance, a way out of the situation may be a homemade unit made from the engine of a regular Druzhba chainsaw.

To make such a simple device with your own hands, you only need time, patience and some details:

  • engine from the Druzhba chainsaw;
  • muffler;
  • starter;
  • fuel tank (can be used from an old motor bike);
  • chain with Z4 pitch (suitable for a regular bicycle, but best option– from a light motorcycle “Minsk” or “Voskhod”);
  • a shaft that acts as an intermediate shaft;
  • wheel for support on the ground;
  • metal corners, from which the supporting frame will be assembled;
  • wheels, the diameter of which will depend on the design of the frame and other features of the homemade motor cultivator.

You will also need a tool with which to process the metal:

  • angle grinder;
  • welding;
  • set of open-end wrenches;
  • pliers.

First of all, the frame is assembled.

It can be connected using bolts or resistance welding.

Of course connection using bolts is much more reliable, but it cannot always be used. Also, if necessary, instead of corners, a thick steel tube can be used to construct the frame.

The frame itself is a complex shape. It looks like a trapezoid with both sides tilted in the same direction. Crossbars holding them together are welded between two identical forms.

They are already equipped with a unit from the Druzhba chainsaw. At the bottom of the frame there is a shaft on which there are two wheels for a future cultivator, made by yourself, and a sprocket. The engine transmits torque through a chain transmission.

The working part is a shaft on which cutters are located, secured with square sheets of metal. Rotation is transmitted to the shaft using the same bicycle sprockets (Z4).

Attention!

It is only important to remember that the angle between the shaft plane and the sprocket must be strictly 90 degrees to avoid frequent chain jumps.

How to make a cultivator from a trimmer with your own hands

If necessary, you can easily construct a mini-cultivator with your own hands from an ordinary garden petrol trimmer. To carry out this simple operation you will need:

  • working trimmer;
  • tools for metal processing (grinder, welding and hand tools);
  • ordinary garden forks;
  • a steel tube, the diameter of which will allow it to be connected to the trimmer shaft.

As a working part, you can use specially curved rods from ordinary garden forks. Their optimal length is approximately 10-15 cm. It is to this depth that the soil is most often loosened.

First of all, you should make the working part. It will look like flattened fork tines; their width should be approximately 1 cm.

Using emery, on which a disk with a low abrasive number is mounted, the resulting cutters are sharpened. After this, you need to make a round penny, the diameter of which will be approximately 10 cm.

It must be of an ideal shape in order to place the cutters at an equal distance from each other, the optimal number of which is 3 pieces.

You can use more, but in this case the load on the device will be extremely high.

The optimal engine power for using it as a cultivator unit is 2 horsepower or more. Such trimmers are produced by Husqvarna, their cost is 9,550 rubles.

The DDE GB 32 RD model is somewhat cheaper.

Assembling a homemade cultivator

Its power is 1.4 liters. With. It is also suitable for use as a cultivator unit.

One of the most important stages of work is connecting the base with cutters to the trimmer.

This operation is greatly simplified if the end of the shaft has a reverse thread, to which the equipment is simply screwed. The DDE GB 32 RD trimmer is just such a model.

In such a case, a nut of the required diameter is welded onto the steel tube. Also There are trimmers that have threads inside the shaft.

How to make a cultivator from a drill with your own hands

If you need to perform work in the garden with a cultivator, but this must be done with great precision, you can make the tool in question from conventional drill. To do this you will need very little:

  • working drill;
  • a steel rod that can compress the chuck of an existing drill;
  • cutters.

You also need to have a tool for processing metal surfaces:

  • Bulgarian;
  • emery;
  • welding.

Preliminary drawing up of drawings for a cultivator made by yourself is not required.

A steel rod, the optimal diameter of which is 10 mm, will act as a shaft that transmits rotation from the drill motor through the chuck to the cutters.

Any sheet metal can act as cutters if its thickness and hardness allow working with problematic soils.

You can also use ordinary metal corners, which are 10 mm wide and 100-150 mm long. Using a grinder, ordinary flat rectangles are made from them.

After this, you can safely insert the resulting structure into the drill chuck and carry out work on cultivating your garden or garden plot.

It may seem that a gearbox for a walk-behind tractor is a complex technical device and can only be manufactured in a factory setting. However, many of our farmers have homemade gearboxes for walk-behind tractors. The most important part of the unit is the drive. When there is a need to buy a gearbox, you need to know that its further operation and even functionality depends on the quality of this particular unit.

The gearbox transmits and appropriately converts torque, the conductors of which are mechanical transmissions. You can literally make a device from junk items, you just need to understand the principle of how the design works.

Types of gearboxes

There are worm and chain devices. The differences between them are small, but quite important. The difference lies in the characteristics inherent in the two different types: efficiency; angular velocity; number of gears; number of shafts and ratio between gears.

On relatively cheap walk-behind tractors they are often installed non-separable gearboxes for simplified assembly. In this case, the service life is significantly reduced and additional possibilities are eliminated:

  • repair;
  • assembly;
  • disassembly;
  • replacement of parts.

This indicates the low quality of the material used to make the gearbox, and that most of the parts will not be sleeved. The diagram will give an idea of ​​the principle of its operation and service life.

Gearboxes are installed on expensive walk-behind tractors more complex in design and allowing further assembly and disassembly. Maintenance can be carried out by correcting all the shortcomings in the operation of the device.

Repairs are carried out in order to extend the service life. It is recommended to replace faulty parts with more expensive ones. Timely lubrication will also extend the service life.

In most cases gearbox converts speeds, that is, the angular velocity quickly and efficiently transforms into a low one. There will be a high angular velocity on the input shaft, and a low one on the output shaft.

To prevent unexpected breakdowns, it is required regular quality maintenance. When changing speed in steps, the gearbox is called a gearbox. When a step system is not used, the device is called a variator.

The design of the gearbox is not particularly complicated, and it is quite possible to assemble it yourself. First, the rated power is calculated: (Pn); Pn = Pe (hp) x FS, which will allow you to correctly determine the angle of the bevel gear.

By the same principle the number of possible revolutions is calculated per minute and torque calculation. A self-made device needs to determine operating conditions, including the radial or axial load of the shafts at their ends. Operation is optimal when correct selection temperature and lubrication.

The assembly is performed after these above steps. You can take the factory building. Its diameter will tell you what the bearing housing for the shaft should be like. A drill will help here good quality and a caliper. Next, take two bearings under the shaft.

Steel flange installed on the front. A flange bearing and washer are located inside. The flange is attached to the generator with screws. The steel key with the drive gear and driven pinion shaft are selected in advance.

To rotary generator nodes join connecting to the transmission mechanism. It has a pulley that provides V-belt transmission. It is secured to the driven shaft with a nut and spring washer.

Main elements of the gearbox

In the automotive industry, angular gearboxes are often used, because these units provide effective work. The angular gearbox ensures the coupling of the transmission to the engine. Can be improved already finished product. Among the main elements of the gearbox are:

It’s quite easy to understand the gear device by looking at its transmission, which is the transmitter between the wheels and the motor. The direction changes in the walk-behind tractor. It's called a transmission gearbox with clutch. It is often used in heavy walk-behind tractors.

Homemade device does not require pairing with the engine, because the calculation is made for specific tasks, and there are no restrictions due to a ready-made technical solution.

Gearbox manufacturing process

First, the parameters of the power plant are calculated. The crankshaft speed can be found in the technical specifications.

This is the first quantity required to perform the calculation. The value is not constant, with the addition of “gas” the number of revolutions increases. Basic value: idle speed +10%.

Next, it is produced calculation of suspension axle rotations. Knowing the size of the wheels, it will be possible to calculate the amount of run-out per revolution. The number of axis revolutions is calculated to ensure a comfortable speed - 3−5 km/h, which is the second value for design.

For example, idle speed +10% is 600 rpm. The required wheel axle speed for 3 km/h is 200 rpm. So, gear ratio should be 3:1. The rotation speed of the axis is reduced by three times in relation to the speed of the motor shaft, and the torque increases accordingly by three times. Gearbox types:

  • Gear - use the ratio of the number of teeth of the driven and driving gears. The device operates on the principle of steam in the gearbox. It doesn’t matter what shape the gears have - the teeth can be straight or oblique. A bevel gear is used when a walk-behind tractor requires an angular gearbox. It all depends on the location of the motor. If alignment is ensured between the motor shaft and the wheels, an angle is not required.
  • A worm drive is needed to create a large gear ratio when there is a large difference between the revolutions of the drive axle and the engine. This design is more difficult to manufacture and maintain. The solution is optimal if the motor shaft is perpendicular to the wheel axis.
  • Chain gearboxes work like a bicycle, but in reverse. The leading one is a smaller star. The reliability of the design is determined by the quality of the gear metal and the strength of the chain. A simple set from a bicycle may not withstand the load, so more durable ones are used - motorcycle ones.
  • Belt devices are the simplest to manufacture. They are also the most unreliable and weak. Large torque is not transmitted, as the belts will slip. But the shock load on the engine is reduced - the design is more gentle on the drive shaft, jerks are smoothed out. Slippage is eliminated by installing a timing belt. In this case, you need to find a pair of toothed pulleys, for example, from an automobile timing system.
  • Combined system. A device with a chain and gear transmission can be manufactured in one housing, although the calculations in this case are more complex. But it is possible to transmit enormous torque with low engine power.

When choosing any design, do not forget about the following rules:

  • do not allow distortions between the driven and driving parts;
  • Bushings cannot be used, only bearings.

Any device other than a belt one must be constantly lubricated, therefore it must be in a box. The sealed housing will protect against dirt and dust, the ingress of which is inevitable during field work. Oil seals are installed on the shafts.

As an example, we can take factory products for Soviet agricultural machinery. The chain drive is not so sensitive to lubrication, but the chain needs clean and lubricate regularly.

Finalization of the finished design

You can choose the right size case from a landfill old technology, drill holes for the shafts on the bearings and assemble the device no worse than the factory one! Practice shows that selecting ready-made structures with minor modifications is much more effective.

An example for us will be a homemade block based on the IZH motorcycle engine" A “native” gearbox with the ability to change speeds is used. The standard gear ratio is missing, but a small sprocket on the output shaft of the gearbox with a large sprocket from the drive wheel already provides a good reduction in the speed.

Another small sprocket is put on the shaft, which is installed in the bearing podium, which transmits torque to the wheels using a second chain. The drive axle, in turn, is equipped with a large diameter star. The result was a design with a 2-stage speed reduction and high torque.

Using motorcycle gearbox, you can select the required speed without using the throttle. The engine almost always runs at idle speed, which extends its service life.

No less popular is the ready-made gearbox from the Ant scooter" There is no need to use the entire wheeled platform; installing your rollers on the bridge will suffice. By using the gearbox from the selected engine, you will get the optimal ratio of speed and power.