The sewer system consists not only of a pipeline, but also of wells. The principle of their installation is almost the same, but they can all perform different functions. For the construction of a well they use various materials: reinforced concrete rings, brick, cinder block, metal and plastic containers, car tires. In general, every owner uses the material that is at hand. But in order for the system to work well, it is necessary to correctly install sewer wells, observing all construction standards.

Types and rules for installing wells

The number and type of wells installed depends on the type of sewerage system, its length, drops, and turns.

Pay attention! In sewers used only for drainage from the bathroom and washbasins, it is enough to install an inspection and filter well. If there is a drop or a turn in the pipeline, then a drop or rotary well is installed in this place, respectively. Then the inspection well can not be installed, but combined with one of them.

In a sewerage system where the toilet and bathtub will be drained through one pipeline, a sump well is installed first. In it, solid sediment will settle to the bottom, and water will flow through the overflow into the filter well. From the filter well, purified water flows through the overflow into the third well - the drainage well. From the third well, clean water will be discharged to a certain place or pumped out by a pump. The installation of these three wells is mandatory, plus a rotary or inspection well can be added to them.

Well location

Observations. The first well is installed at the sewage outlet of the building, no closer than 3 m from the foundation, but no further than 12 m. In a long-term system, wells are installed every 15 m.
Rotary. Such wells are similar to inspection wells, only they are installed not at a certain distance, but at all turns of the pipeline. And if the inspection well is installed next to the rotary well, then it can be removed.
Drops. Sewerage passing through difficult terrain may have fluctuations in some places. A differential well is installed at this connection point. In very long pipelines, the velocity of the drained water increases and can cause a system rupture. Here the drop point will perform the rescue function of damping the speed of water flow.

All considered sewer wells differ in their bottom structure. In drainage wells, the bottom is not concreted, but filled with filter material, through which clean water flows out. All other wells have a horizontal concrete bottom; only for settling tanks the bottom is concreted in the form of a cone, or at an angle. The installation of the well body is almost the same, although there are some nuances due to differences in materials.

Installation of settling tanks

By design, sedimentation tanks are divided into vertical and horizontal. Their installation varies significantly.

Reinforced concrete is mainly used to build a horizontal settling tank. The shape of the well resembles a rectangle with partitions for chambers (mostly there are two of them). The chambers collect solid accumulations in the form of sediment at the bottom. The upper edge of the installed settling tank is located no more than 60 cm in the ground, and the water level in the chamber should not reach the surface of 40 cm. The sedimentary bottom is poured with concrete at an angle.

Vertical design

Installation of a vertical sump is made of iron concrete rings, and the bottom is concreted in the form of a cone. Sewage that gets into such a structure leaves solid particles at the bottom, and the liquid, changing the direction of movement, enters the drain pipe. The water level is adjusted by the float along the height of the sides of the overflow channel.

The size of the sedimentary bottom is calculated at the rate of 0.8 liters of sediment per person per day. The sedimentary part should contain the sediment from the life processes of all people living in the room for two days. Subsequently, it drains through a 200 mm pipe installed at the bottom of the sump.

Pay attention! Installation of reinforced concrete rings or panels is carried out in a dug pit using a truck crane. All joints are sealed cement mortar, and the walls are covered with a layer of waterproofing. The top is covered with a concrete slab with a hatch.

Installation of a drainage well

Drainage wells are installed in a similar way to installing rings. They can be replaced brickwork, cinder block. The only difference is that it is installed not on a concrete bottom, but on a filter pad. It consists of a layer of sand, a mixture of sand and gravel, and a third layer of coarse crushed stone. The thickness of each layer is from 15 to 25 cm.

Installation of other wells

Inspection, differential and rotary wells are installed both from concrete rings and bricks, cinder blocks, barrels and other available materials. The horizontal bottom is filled with concrete 15 cm thick, and all walls are covered with waterproofing.

After reading the article, you learned the types of wells and where they should be installed. And the main work for installing all types of wells is almost the same: you dig a pit, concrete the bottom or pour a filter pad, build walls, cover them with waterproofing, cover them with a slab with a hatch, and cover them with earth. Most of the work can be done with your own hands, but to install concrete rings or panels you will have to use the services of a truck crane. For large volumes of excavation work, it is better to use an excavator.

Video

Watch a short video report on the installation of a sewer well:

Sewage well - a structure necessary to monitor the operation of the recycling system waste water and providing access to it for cleaning and rinsing. The design of these sewerage devices quite simple and allows you to build them on our own, minimally involving outside labor and equipment.

There are several types of sewer wells:

Observations. They come in three types - rotary, installed in places where pipelines turn, linear - on straight sections, nodal, which are mounted on distributions and nodes.
Drop wells are installed in places where there is a large difference in the position of the pipes.
The purpose of filtration or drainage wells is to purify wastewater in layers of sand, crushed stone or pebbles; they can be used for post-treatment of wastewater after a septic tank.
The storage well is used to collect wastewater.

Installation of sewer wells: basic rules

The sewer well consists of a working chamber, a neck and a hatch.

The installation of wells can be carried out with the expectation that one structure will perform several functions at once.

When installing these devices, the following rules must be observed:

the first inspection well should be located at a distance not exceeding 12 m from the sewer outlet;
the inspection well is located at a distance from the house building exceeding 3 m;
the distance between sewer wells is 15 m from each other.

Drop wells are installed in cases where the terrain does not make it possible to place pipes with the required slope. If the height difference is not very significant, you can do without a drop well, which differs in design from similar devices of another type.

You can make the lowering yourself, for which you will need a cross, an elbow and a pipe.

When connected plastic pipes the elbow can be bent at an angle of 45 0, cast iron - 135 0.

The lowering is connected to the wall of the well with clamps. The cross is mandatory element, because otherwise it will be difficult to clean the sewer well if it is clogged.

Installation of rotary type sewer wells is carried out in areas where the pipeline turns. These structures simultaneously perform two roles - manhole and devices for flushing and cleaning sewers. Rotary trays have a special shape.

Features of the construction of storage sewer wells

The storage well is designed for collection and primary treatment of wastewater. It has a number of features.

The location for the drain well is selected in accordance with existing sanitary and environmental standards. According to these rules, the well must be located at a distance of at least 5 meters from the building.

There should be the maximum possible distance between the wastewater well and the water intake point. On clay soils this distance is 20 m, on clayey ones - 50 m.

To install a drain well, select a site that is located below the level of housing construction, at a sufficient distance from the house and the well or borehole. Wells are round or square containers with a concrete bottom. The design of storage devices must be as tight as possible to avoid the release of untreated wastewater into the environment.

Storage wells are cleaned of thick and solid waste using suction pumps.

Sewage well installation technology

To reduce the time required for excavation work, it is advisable to hire an excavator.

After making the pit, a foundation is erected, which is different for storage and drainage wells:

to construct a storage well, the bottom of the pit is covered with pebbles and then filled with cement mortar,
bottom drainage well they arrange it differently - it is covered with pebbles or gravel to a depth of 500-1000 mm, concreting is carried out along the perimeter of the pit.

After making the bottom of the pit, the body of the main chamber is erected. To make a well, brick, stone, and standard reinforced concrete rings are used.

An important characteristic of the storage well chamber is tightness, so it is coated with bitumen from the inside, or the joints of reinforced concrete rings are coated with cement mortar.

The design of sewer wells depends on their purpose, and required quantity on the design of the system - its complexity, the presence of turns and differences when laying communications, length and other features. Having understood the purpose of various types of structures, it will be easier to design the sewer system of a private house or cottage and ensure its maximum efficiency.

SNIP regulates specifically and precisely where and how sewer wells should be installed. Consider Building Codes and the Rules are also important because the inspecting authorities are required to check structures for compliance with the requirements, and if violations are detected, they may issue an order requiring changes to be made to the sewerage system, which will require additional costs and will significantly increase construction time.

Manholes

Such structures are necessary for any sewer system regardless of its degree of complexity. Wells provide the ability to control the operation of the system and are used for its maintenance(repair, cleaning, washing, etc.). Depending on where the observation structures are located, there are several types:

Important: As stipulated in SNiP sewer wells linear type are installed on straight sections every 35 meters if the pipeline diameter is up to 150 mm, and every 50 meters if the pipe diameter is 200 mm.

Drop wells

Drop wells are used to change the flow speed or depth of pipelines. They are also used when it is necessary for the sewer line to bypass any obstacle (another pipeline, etc.). IN general view such structures are a vertical shaft (reservoir) with inlet and outlet pipes. Depending on the purpose, it may be necessary to install sewer wells of this type with additional devices, for example, with steps that dampen the flow rate.

The following types of drop wells are distinguished:

classic well design (effluent inflow through the upper pipe, discharge through the lower pipe),
models of wells with baffle-drain surfaces of the walls to reduce the flow rate,
channels with a significant slope, capable, on the contrary, of “accelerating” the flow, increasing its speed,
complex designs of multi-stage drops.

Filtration wells

Models of wells of this type are used in sewerage systems to provide soil post-treatment of wastewater partially clarified in the septic tank and drain the liquid component of the septic tank contents into the ground. Structurally, a filtration well differs from others in the absence of a sealed bottom (instead, it is backfilled with gravel or other filter material). Options for wells with holes in the walls of the tank are also possible. Through such holes, the liquid also goes into the soil, and to further clean it, filter material is also backfilled from the outside of the well at the stage of its installation.

Storage wells

The principle of operation of a storage sewer well is the same as that - it is a collection point for wastewater. When organizing a storage facility, it is important to ensure its tightness and provide for the possibility of access by a vacuum truck to pump out the contents.

Materials for making wells

The construction of a sewer well provides for the possibility of using various materials.

Important: Brick and concrete wells need waterproofing of walls from the outside and inside and the bottom, if we are not talking about filtration structures. Careful sealing is needed where pipes enter tanks.

Insensitive to water and chemicals (e.g. detergents and disinfectants) plastic convenient for making wells. Plastic well for sewerage, you can make it yourself from a Eurocube or barrels. There are also ready-made blocks available for sale, which include not only the tank itself, but trays with wiring of various types.

Installation of plastic sewer wells may require anchoring to concrete foundation, if ground or flood waters rise close to the surface of the earth and there is a possibility of a light structure floating up. Spontaneous movement of an unfixed well under the influence of water can damage other elements of the system.

Well sizes

Carrying out sewer well with your own hands, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP regarding the ratio of the diameter of the pipelines and the diameter of the structure itself.

If the depth of laying pipelines is 3 m or more, for any pipe diameter, the diameter of the well should not be less than 1500 mm.

General preparatory stages during construction

When deciding how to make a sewer well with your own hands, you should remember that preparation for construction includes the following steps, regardless of the material chosen:

drawing up a sketch of a sewerage diagram with a mark of the location of the well,
markings on the ground,
removal of elements that interfere with construction (uprooting bushes and trees, demolition of old buildings, etc.),
arrangement of equipment access (temporary road for unhindered delivery of materials and, if necessary, movement of lifting machines).

Creating a pit for a well includes:

Excavation work (manual or mechanized),
leveling and cleaning the bottom,
checking and adjusting geometry (depth, wall angles).

Installation of a plastic well

The use of ready-made plastic structures equipped with shaped parts will not only give significant savings time, but will also give you the opportunity to carry out the installation yourself even in the absence of experience and training.

It is only important to strictly comply with the requirements regarding the location of structures and the choice of their size, which are determined by a set of system parameters (diameter of pipes, straightness or presence of turns in the main, laying depth, etc.). The rest of the installation is carried out in several stages:

digging a pit,
construction of the foundation (sand-crushed stone cushion, poured base),
installation of the structure (and its anchoring if necessary),
connecting the well to the system.

Installation of a concrete well

The construction of a sewer well made of concrete rings and bricks has virtually no differences in terms of the order of installation work.

The following work is performed:

Digging a pit.
Creating a foundation (a poured foundation can be made or a ready-made concrete slab can be used). The thickness of the base is about 100 mm, the recommended grade of concrete is M50.
Construction of the tray (carried out taking into account the number of inlets, communication connection angles, the presence of turns and other features). M100 concrete reinforced with metal mesh is used.
Sealing (with concrete and bitumen sequentially) the places where pipes enter the well.
Installation of rings with cement mortar fixation, construction of a brick structure (after the concrete tray has fully gained strength).
Bitumen waterproofing of the inner surface of the walls (in case of construction using rings, this can be done before installation).
Waterproofing of seams (for ring structures).
Tray Finish (Used cement plaster and ironing technology).
Arrangement of clay locks at the junction of pipes with the tank (height - 600 mm, width - 300 mm).
Testing the structure, keeping the tank filled with water for 24 hours (temporary plugs are installed on the pipes during this time) to detect leaks. A reinforced concrete sewer well is considered suitable for use if there are no visually noticeable leaks.
Filling the well with earth and compacting the soil.
made of concrete around the perimeter of the neck 1.5 m wide.

Ministry of Construction of the MSSR

Design and technology trust Orgstroy

TECHNOLOGICAL MAP
FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF PRECAST CONCRETE SEWER WELLS

Chief engineer of the trust Y. Presman

Head of Department E. Shafir

Team leader V. Trushchenkov

Chisinau, 1969

pcs.
Rings		pcs.
Luke	TU-264-55	pcs.
Cement mortar	M-50	m 3	0,06
Concrete	M-50	m 3	0,33
Concrete	M-100	m 3	0,55
Bitumen		kg
Petrol		kg
Reinforcing mesh		pcs.
Crushed stone		m 3	0,22

Machinery, equipment and power tools.

No. pp.	Name	Type	Brand	Quantity
	Automotive crane		LAZ-690
	Bulldozer		D-159.B
	Compressor		PKS-5
	Pneumatic rammers		I-157

Inventory and devices.

Name	Unit change	Quantity

Cross saws	pcs.
Bayonet shovels	pcs.
Steel crowbars	pcs.
Picking shovels	pcs.
Bench hammers	pcs.
Tape measures 10 m	pcs.
Folding meter	pcs.
Metal level	pcs.
Metal plumb line	pcs.
Bench chisels	pcs.
Axes	pcs.
Adjustable wrenches	pcs.
Opening fork	pcs.
Mobile container for cement	pcs.
Universal sling with a lifting capacity of 2.0 tons.	pcs.
Four-legged sling with a lifting capacity of 4 tons.	pcs.
Mobile boiler for heating bitumen	pcs.
Inventory plugs for hydraulic testing	pcs.
Stairs	pcs.
Transitional bridges	pcs.
Level	pcs.
Leveling slats	pcs.
Template for tray device	pcs.
Wooden tray 3.5 m long.	pcs.
Mason's Trowels	pcs.
Plastering trowels	pcs.
Buckets	pcs.
Mortar box	pcs.
Brushes	pcs.
Manual tamping	pcs.

Section VI.
Cost calculation for the installation of a sewer well with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 3.0 m.

No. pp.	Basis of ENiR and GMSS standards	Name of work	Unit change	Scope of work	Cost per unit		Costs for the entire scope of work
No. pp.	Basis of ENiR and GMSS standards	Name of work	Unit change	Scope of work	standard time	rast.	labor intensive per person hour	amount in rub. cop.

	$ 2-1-2 t.2 p.3z	Soil development using an E-302 excavator equipped with a backhoe	100 m 3	0,08		2-19	0,31	0-17,5
	§ 2-1-21 t. 2 p.1b	Completion of the pit manually	m 3			0-48,12	0,84	0-33,7
	§ 11-33 clause 1a K=0.7	Heating bitumen in a bitumen boiler	1 t.	0,03	14,0	5-78,2	0,42	0-17,3
	§ 1-11 clause 11a and b	Supplying heated bitumen into the well in buckets from the roofskami to a depth of 3.0 m, 1,6+(0,6 ´ 3 ´ 0,8) = 3,04 0,401+3,04 = 1-21,9	1 t.	0,03	3,04	1-21,9	0,09	0-03,7
	§ 2-1-30 clause 4	Compaction of soil at the base of a well mixed with bitumen.	100 m 2	0,015		2-12,5	0,08	0-03,2
	§ 10-39 clause 2	Concrete preparation device	m 3	0,12	1,65	0-70,1	0,20	0-08,4
	§ 1-3 t.2 p.1a	Unloading reinforced concrete well elements and other materials from vehicles.	10 t	0,19		2-04,3	0,86	0-38,8
	§ 10-36 t.1 p.4b	Device concrete tray diameter 250 mm with one branch.	1 lot.			0-93,3		0-93,3
	§ 10-36 t.2 p.4c	Plastering trays with iron lining 5,8 ´ 0,8 = 4,64 2-58 ´ 0,8 =2-06,4	1 lot.		4,64	2-06,4	4,64	2-06,4
	§ 10-33 t.1 clause 1a note. to paragraphs 6 and 7	Installation of prefabricated reinforced concrete. round wells with a diameter of up to 1.0 m, depth of up to 3.0 m using a crane 10,5 ´ 0,8 ´ 0,75=6,30 4-68 ´ 0,8 =3-74,4	1 well		6,30	3-74,4	6,30	3-74,4
	GMSS vol. 12 § 10-33 approx. paragraphs 6 and 7	Also for crane operator 2,1 ´ 0,8 ´ 0,75 = 1,26 1-18,2 ´ 0,8 = 0-94,6	1 well		1,26	0-94,6	1,26	0-94,6
	§ 10-33 t.1 clause 5a note. item 2, item 7	Waterproofing reinforced concrete well rings with hot bitumen 1,3 ´ 1,7 ´ 0,8=1,77 0-53,7 ´ 1,7 ´ 0,8=0-73	1 well		1,77	0-73	1,77	0-73
	§ 10-7, t.2 p.12d	Well hydraulic test	1 m		1,05	0-53,1	3,15	1-65,3
	§ 14-11 t.1 applicable	Construction of a lock, made of crushed moistened loam, at the junction of the pipelines with the well.	m 2		0,51	0-21,06	2,65	1-09,5
	§ 2-1-12 t.4 p.2d	Filling the well pit with soil using a bulldozer.	100 m 3	0,24		0-45	0,19	0-10,8
	§ 2-1-30 clause 4	Soil compaction when backfilling pits using pneumatic rammers.	100 m 2	0,28		0-93,5	0,61	0-26,2
	§ 19-21 p.a § 19-22 t.1 p.3	Construction of a concrete blind area 22 + 5,2 = 27,2 9-08,6 + 2-31 = 11-39,7	100 m 2	0,052	27,2	11-39,7	1,41	0-59,3
		TOTAL:					19,98	9-00

SEWER WELL

Notes:

1. When excavating a well, all elements are installed on an M-50 solution.

2. The inner surface of the well is painted to its entire height with hot bitumen 2 times over a primer with a solution of bitumen in gasoline.

3. Reinforcement diameter welded mesh equal to 8 mm, mesh weight 7.9 kg.

4. The shape of the tray is shown for pipes: incoming D=200 mm, outgoing D=250 mm and attached D=150 mm.

5. The tray is made of M-100 concrete, plastered with cement mortar and reinforced.

SCHEME OF WORK PRODUCTION WHEN CONSTRUCTION OF WELLS.

Conventions.

1 - LAZ-690 truck crane;

2 - Elements of a prefabricated reinforced concrete well;

3 - Box with concrete;

4 - Box with solution;

5 - Pit;

6 - Pipeline;

7 - Mobile boiler for heating bitumen;

8 - Container with primer;

9 - Staircase-landing;

10 - Staircase for descending into the pit;

11 - Concrete tray.

Note: See the section along A-A on the next page.

R section A-A

TEMPLATE AND FORMWORK

INSTALLATION DIAGRAM OF FORMWORK AND TEMPLATE WHEN CONSTRUCTING TRAYS

INSTALLATION ACCESSORIES

No. pp.	Name	Sketch	Be with kg	Note
	Universal sling with a lifting capacity of 5.0 tons
	Four-leg sling with a lifting capacity of 3.0 tons
	Extension ladder H=3.6 m

ADJUSTING STONES AND THEIR LAYING SCHEME

On a suburban site and initial preparation for operation. However, consider it a ready source drinking water It’s still very early; there are a lot of technological operations ahead before the well really begins to fully justify its purpose. It is clear that in modern conditions there are few people willing to carry water for domestic or household needs in buckets - this is already a complete relic distant past. But even before running water from the well into the house, it is necessary to solve a number of problems aimed at ensuring the cleanliness of the water intake.

The above fully applies to suburban areas, which were purchased with a ready-made well. So that it is guaranteed to become a truly source clean water, you will have to audit it and, if necessary, perform the same set of operations for the preparation and organization of uninterrupted high-quality water supply.

So, as starting conditions, we will take a dug well with an established sufficient flow rate, a correctly installed bottom filter. In order for water from it to flow into the house uninterruptedly, at any time of the year, clean and suitable for drinking, it is necessary to waterproof the well, insulate the well, install a pipe system, install pumping equipment and a filtration and post-treatment system.

Well waterproofing

At first glance, this may even seem paradoxical, but a well necessarily requires reliable waterproofing. This is explained by several reasons.

In order for the water to be clean and suitable for food use, it is necessary to completely prevent the entry of contaminated groundwater through the walls, located much closer to the surface of the earth than the water lens of the well itself. In soil waters and perched water there is always a significant concentration of decomposing organic matter, including fecal matter that has fallen on the ground and absorbed petroleum products, ground alkalis and salts, pathogenic bacteria, agricultural chemicals, etc. If possible leaks of such moisture are not eliminated, the well itself will very soon become unsuitable as a source of drinking water.

Absence or unsuitability of waterproofing is the cause of water contamination in the well

The reinforced concrete walls of the well shaft themselves also require waterproofing. Concrete seems very durable, but meanwhile, it can still be actively destroyed under the influence of soil salts and acids. The material becomes loose, it begins to crumble, loses its strength qualities and, as a result, cannot restrain the penetration of groundwater into the well shaft.

Thus, waterproofing works will be aimed at creating protection for the surface of the concrete rings themselves and at sealing the joints between them and technological holes.

If a new well is being built, then the best solution would be to waterproof the rings first, even before installing them in the dug shaft. This makes it possible to conduct both the outer and inner surfaces of reinforced concrete parts, which will significantly increase their wear resistance and prevent the slightest leakage of water through the thickness of the walls.
External waterproofing can be carried out using a coating method followed by gluing roll material– roofing felt in several layers. However, rings with such a coating will be inconvenient to install, especially when digging a well in a closed way. It is better to use the impregnating waterproofing method. To do this, the outer surface of the walls of the rings is coated with a special impregnating composition - deep penetration primer. It fills the pores of concrete, crystallizes in them and creates a high-strength protective structure that is not affected by the chemical components of the soil. If you are not lazy and do not skimp, coating the walls with this composition twice, then the waterproofing will last as long as the reinforced concrete structures themselves.
If it is put in order old well, then for external waterproofing of the walls you will have to throw the soil onto maximum depth, at least 3 - 4 rings of the upper rings. Here, after drying and cleaning from dirt, you can apply coating insulation, followed by gluing the walls with several layers of roofing material. Pure bitumen is never used for initial coating - its “life” is short, and it will soon dry out and crack. For this it is better to use special tar mastics.

External waterproofing also involves the creation of an external bedding, a clay seal and a concrete blind area. However, it is probably better to do this a little later, after laying the water pipes and insulating the top of the well.

Next important question– sealing of joints between rings. During the process of assembling the barrel, you can immediately lay a sealant between them - for example, bentonite-rubber cord “Gidroizol” or “Barrier. It is elastic in itself and will provide good sealing; in addition, under the influence of moisture, it will increase in volume several times and reliably close all possible cavities at the joints.

If the well is old and clearly needs repairing the joints between the rings, then they should be cut to a depth of up to 30 mm at an angle and thoroughly cleaned with an iron brush. It happens that water is already oozing from the cracks - leak can be fixed“water plug”, for example, AQUAFIX - a cement composition of ultra-fast hardening when interacting with water.

Then the resulting cavities are tightly filled with a repair compound (for example, MEGACRET-40), which has high adhesion even to a wet surface and does not shrink.

In the same way, it is necessary to repair all detected defects on the inside of the well shaft.

After the repair composition has dried, you can proceed to waterproofing the inner walls of the well over their entire area. As already mentioned, if a new well is being assembled, it is recommended to pre-treat the rings before installing them - then all that remains is to tidy up the joints between them.

It is best to use coating insulation, for example, AQUAMAT-ELASTIC. This two-component cement-polymer composition is absolutely environmentally friendly and does not in any way negatively affect the quality of drinking water.

The surface of the walls is slightly moistened with water, and the composition is prepared in such a way that it is convenient to apply it with a wide brush. After applying the first layer, you can additionally apply waterproofing tape over the fresh mortar at the joints and on “weak” areas of the walls. After the entire surface has hardened, another layer is applied (the walls no longer need to be wetted). when the second layer hardens (this will take about a day), the well can be considered reliably waterproofed and from the inside.

Prices for coating waterproofing

Coating waterproofing

Laying communications to the well

After waterproofing the well from the inside and outside, you should not rush to fill the soil in place - first you need to lay the pipes and make an insert for them through the wall.

The water supply from the well to the house should be buried below the soil freezing level (this value can be easily clarified at any local construction organization). The trench is dug taking into account the fact that a sand and gravel cushion approximately 100 mm high will be poured onto its bottom.

Probably no one in our time uses for such water pipes metal pipes. The most optimal The solution is polyethylene pipes (HDPE). To guarantee the supply of the entire house, it is better to use a pipe with a diameter of 32 mm. They always have a wide range of fittings on sale - fittings, tees, bends, transitions, etc. Compression fittings make the work extremely easy - no additional equipment is required at all.

Experienced craftsmen advise: HDPE pipe is inexpensive, so when laying a water pipeline from a well to a house, it makes sense to lay not one, but two lines. One of them will be the main one, and the second will simply be in reserve in case of any emergency. This prudent move will in this case save you from labor-intensive work to replace the failed line.

It is unwise to lay the pipe simply on the ground - it needs to create additional mechanical protection. To do this, you can use technical polyethylene pipes of larger diameter, or polymer corrugated pipes, with or without insulation.

If the pipe is guaranteed to be located below the freezing level of the ground, then it does not require special insulation. However, it is better to lay a layer of polystyrene foam on top of the pipes before filling the trench with soil - this will protect them in particularly severe, abnormal frosts.
A “weak” point may be areas where pipes rise to the surface, where they pass through a base or an unheated basement. Here, it is probably necessary to provide for heating the water supply and its reinforced insulation, which is described in detail in a special article on our portal .
The passage of the pipe through the wall of the well is organized - at the same level where the pipeline is laid. In no case should this unit be placed at the junction of the rings - when drilling holes, the edge of the ring may crack or even collapse. The most optimal An option would be to install a Ø 1″ threaded rod into the hole made.

The space between it and the walls of the hole is filled with a plastic sealing compound (for example, waterproofing mastic with reinforcing fibers). The walls of the ring outside and inside near the hole are generously coated with the same composition. Then wide rubber gaskets and large diameter washers are put on on both sides, and then the bend is secured with nuts.

A fitting is “packed” onto the threaded part of the drive from the outside, to which the HDPE pipe supplied to the well is attached. It is better to attach a tee to the fitting from the inside of the well. It is recommended to install a tap on its horizontal outlet, which will allow water to be drained from the home water supply system if the house will not be used for a long time. A fitting is “packed” to the outlet of the tee, looking down, to which a piece of vertical pipe will be attached to draw water from the well or to connect to a submersible pump.

Now you can complete the work on waterproofing and insulating the well.

Video: ease of connecting HDPE pipes with compression fittings

Prices for HDPE pipes

HDPE pipe

Insulation of the upper part and completion of waterproofing work

Read how to do it with step by step instructions, in our new article.

There is always a certain gap between the wall of the well and the shaft dug under it. It must be filled out sand and gravel mixture and compact it as tightly as possible.
Starting from the level just below the pipe insertion and up to the very level of the soil surface on the rings along outside Narrow blocks of thermal insulation - polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam - are attached. This will protect the walls from freezing in winter. These panels can be fastened in any way, for example, with wide adhesive tape.

Then this free space is filled with soil, sand and gravel mixture, as shown in the figure for example. Must be done clay castle– a compacted clay belt along the outer contour of the rings with a downward slope on the sides. This will prevent rain or melt water from entering the outer walls well.

It is advisable not to limit yourself to this and also pour around the protruding part of the well concrete blind area, which will finally complete the process of waterproofing this structure.

Organization of water supply system

First of all, you need to decide which one will be used to organize the supply of water from the well to the house.

1. In the case when the depth of the water layer does not exceed 7 meters, optimal solution there will be a home installation pumping station. When choosing it, be sure to pay attention to the height of the water rise - technical characteristics, which is indicated in the technical documentation of the product. In this case, they focus on both vertical and horizontal sections of the water supply system. The height of the created water column for calculations of vertical sections is taken as 1:1. Horizontal sections are calculated from the proportion 1 meter of column = 10 meters of pipe.

A section of the intake pipe is immediately assembled so that it descends approximately to the middle of the thickness of the aquifer, otherwise it will begin to scoop up sand and dirt from the bottom. A prerequisite is to install a check valve on it, so that the pipeline is constantly filled with water. Air entering the pump mechanism can cause it to overheat and fail.

An intake filter will also not hurt, which will prevent large suspended particles from entering the pipes, which will protect the pumping station from premature wear.
As an intake pipe, you can assemble a unit (with a filter and valve) from the same HDPE-32 and attach it to the tee fitting at the pipe inlet into the well.
Another option is to use ready-made corrugated intake pipes, which are already structurally equipped check valve.

For better stability of the structure, the pipe can be fixed to the walls of the well with clamps (clips).

The disadvantages of this scheme are the high noise level of the pumping station, which will require a separate room in the house (for example, in the basement). In addition, certain difficulties arise with organizing control of the water level in the well - you will have to often visually check it to prevent air from being sucked into the pipes.

Video: installing a home pumping station

2. If the well depth is 8 meters or more, there is nothing left to do but install a submersible pump. There are a few more installation worries with it.

Firstly, it is necessary to immediately provide for laying an electrical cable to the well. Often it is placed in the same channel as the water pipe.
Secondly, you will need to secure the pump to on reliable metal cable.

However, in general, such a scheme has many advantages:

The created water pressure in submersible pumps is always immeasurably greater.
No noise from a running pump - no separate room is required in the house.
Modern models of submersible pumps are equipped with a pre-filter, a check valve, and, most importantly, a float system for automatically monitoring the water level in the well. If the level drops critically, the pump will simply stop pumping out water.

As a rule, submersible pumps significantly cheaper than stationary pumping stations.

The pump is lowered on a rope on the required depth, connect with a corrugated pipe or flexible hose with a tee at the inlet water pipe into the well. Usually the pump power cable is also secured to this section of the pipe with clamps - this will make it easier to lower the entire pump assembly without the risk of tangling the cable and hose.