Do-it-yourself sewer digging in a private house. Scheme of sewerage in a private house: how to do it right with your own hands, device and types of sewer systems. Installation and equipment of the sewage tank

Decent living conditions cannot be imagined without a well-maintained bathroom and, accordingly, a wastewater disposal system. There are some features when arranging sewage in 2 or more storey buildings, regarding how general scheme organization, and specific nuances of installation.

The general structure of the sewer

In high-rise residential buildings sewerage system has enough complex organization. It is preferable that by the beginning of the installation work a project is drawn up, in which the following should be indicated:

Axonometric plan for the location of pipelines and connection points.
A list of plumbing equipment and household appliances that will be connected to the drain system.
Pipe capacity, flow direction and slope value in all sections.

The structure of the system is represented by a tree, from the trunk of which main pipelines diverge, into which connection points are inserted. All branches of the system are located at several levels, conditionally - at the floor level of each floor. The number and length of branches are practically unlimited, however, all of them must have a slope towards the riser of 3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and 2% for 110 mm mains.

In the classic version, only one riser is arranged, to which all branches of the system are connected. If effluents are discharged into a septic tank, it makes sense to separate the discharge of purely organic effluents and those that include a high concentration of household cleaning products containing chlorine. Also, the device of two risers may be appropriate when equipping large country houses where more than two bathrooms are located on the same floor. In such cases, each riser is connected to its own local treatment plant.

An example of a sewerage scheme in a private house: 1 - 90 ° elbow; 2 - straight tee 90°; 3 - internal wiring pipe; 4 - plug; 5 - hatch for cleaning; 6 - non-ventilated riser; 7 - outlet pipe; 8 - revision; 9 - ventilated riser

When determining the structure of individual branches, one should be guided by the principle that points with the largest volume of salvo discharge should be located closer to the riser. For example, if a sink or bathtub drain is inserted between the toilet bowl and the riser, then when the tank is lowered, a vacuum is formed that will draw water out of the siphon water seal. It is for this reason that the discharge of water from toilets is most often carried out directly into the riser.

Riser device

It is reasonable to carry out the installation of the riser immediately after the construction of the building box is completed. On the one hand, this makes it possible to provide elementary living conditions at the time of further construction works. On the other hand, sewer pipelines can be hidden under a layer of finish.

The location of the riser must be chosen carefully and in advance, because its position on the plan of the house is strictly tied to the input of the outer part of the sewer. When draining, the pipes are pretty noisy, so the riser should be placed either in a technical room isolated from the habitable area, or in a technical well equipped with sound insulation.

The riser should not be walled up tightly, it must have at least one section for which access is provided through a technical hatch. In these places, plumbing revisions are installed - taps with threaded plugs. The installation location of the revision must be chosen so that it provides access to the longest possible section of the pipe, and also so that the room where the hatch is located is spacious enough for maintenance.

The device of a ventilated sewer system: 1 - outlet to the septic tank; 2 - riser with a diameter of 110 mm; 3 - fan pipe; 4 - deflector

Another requirement for the riser device is that it must continue above the tie-in point of the highest branch. This is required for the organization of the so-called fan outlet, due to which the vacuum in the system is compensated, which prevents the discharge of a large volume of water, as well as the ventilation of the riser in case of malfunctions of the hydraulic seal siphons. As a rule, the fan outlet of the riser continues to the very roof, where the sewer is connected to the street through a roof cut with a deflector. It is important that the fan deflector is no closer than 5 meters from windows and ventilation ducts.

Connection points on floors

Before organizing the branching of the sewer system, you should decide on the placement of the connection points. This seemingly trivial task has some rules that ensure both comfortable use of the sewerage system and its impeccable long-term service. The configuration of the branches is determined primarily by the household organization of the premises.

As a rule, there are only two bathrooms on the second floor: one is shared and one is attached to the bedroom. It is preferable that both of these bathrooms have a common wall, which has a riser. At the floor level, a cross with two 110 mm and two 50 mm bends is cut into the riser. Sinks, bidets and showers are connected to small outlets, and toilet sinks are connected to large outlets.

There are more connection points on the ground floor. The kitchen is located here, it requires a connection for kitchen sink and dishwasher, for which it is enough to draw a branch of a 50 mm pipeline of arbitrary length from the riser. In the same way, sewerage is connected to the laundry room, where the washing machine and dryer are located. Also, the first floor is characterized by the placement of the main bathroom, where the bathroom itself, a sink and a toilet with a bidet are connected, that is, this room is conveniently placed under one of the bathrooms on the second floor or with a slight distance. In some houses, a guest toilet can be organized, as a rule, it is placed next to the main bathroom and connected with one 110 mm outlet for the toilet and one 50 mm for the mini-sink. One of the useful innovations for modern country house- a sewerage supply to the back door, where a grate with a receiving funnel is mounted on the floor for washing shoes and paws for pets.

Sololift in the forced sewage system: 1 - sewer pump (sololift); 2 - plumbing connected to the sewer; 3 - height of raising wastewater 4-6 m; 4 - sewer riser; 5 - septic tank

If the house has a basement, it can also be equipped with a sewerage system, combined with a common system. This requires the installation of a so-called sololift - a lifting pump, through which the effluents will rise to the level of the first floor and be discharged into a common drainage outlet through a tee located below the cross. The drain line from the basement must be equipped with check valve. The very idea of \u200b\u200bconducting sewerage into the basement may seem doubtful, but this way it becomes possible to place the laundry in an area where the noise from it will not interfere with the residents, as well as organize a technical or “dirty” wash.

Pipeline installation

Modern materials for installation sewer systems designed in such a way that not only a professional plumber, but also anyone in general could cope with the work. However, there is a certain regulation containing the rules and description of the installation process.

Laying sewer pipes in a private house can be done in two ways. If the floors in the building are monolithic or full-bodied, the pipes are laid at a level above the floor of the upper floor, so the connection points are located at a fairly significant height, and the pipes themselves are hidden under the sheeting of the walls, or in a false box. This approach is acceptable for piping under the sink or washing machine, however, when connecting a bath or drain in the floor at a considerable distance from the riser, the height of the inlet pipe is unacceptable. In such cases, the pipes are led down through the ceiling, and then pulled to the riser along the shortest path and hidden behind a suspended ceiling structure and enclosed in a soundproof shell. In the case of frame ceilings, this task is easier to solve. The thickness of the ceiling is often sufficient to form the required slope, in addition, the small diameter of the pipes allows perforation in the beams of the supporting structure.

Plastic sewer pipes and fittings for them are a kind of constructor that is assembled without the use of special tools. The sealing of the joints is ensured by sealing rubbers installed in grooves on the inner surface of the sockets. It is convenient to first remove all rubber rings, assemble the system “dry”, making sure that the pipelines are located correctly and the slopes are correct, after which you can proceed to sealing all connections.

Schemes and views

AT big houses where there are many rooms (bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this must be done, despite the subsequent impressive fees.

If not, you will have to build an autonomous sewer.

Internal sewerage: scheme and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewerage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout, it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each house.

The scheme here can be formed independently. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, like specialists. But acting wisely, with its help, you will lay the pipeline and decide on the right amount of equipment and materials.

This is where a floor plan is required. Locate the positions for the sewer line (SC), riser(s) and all plumbing fixtures. In the diagram, mark the fittings for the pipeline and the distance from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the required number of connecting components. Such work is carried out on each floor.

Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of various diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

For a riser or TC, as well as an outlet block for draining waste coming from a bathroom - 10–11 cm.
For drains from the kitchen and bathroom, a pipe is used - 5 cm.
Turns in the sewer should be done with two knees. The angle of their position is 45°. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Usually these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The first are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability is amazing.

But today, products from the other two indicated materials are becoming more and more famous. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Customers like their flexibility and modest weight, and resistance to high temperatures Wastewater.

It's important to know: It should be noted that PVC and polypropylene products are installed only inside the house. Cast iron analogues can be laid outside.

Pipes made of all these materials, with proper operation, will last a very long time.

Kinds

Usually sewerage according to the method of operation is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private homes.

Types of sewage according to the method of eliminating wastewater: gravity and pressure. The second requires enormous expenditure and effort. Therefore, the popularity of the first is much higher.

Thus, in private houses, usually, a mixed gravity sewer is arranged.

Mounting

You need an assistant to get the job done. Work takes place with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

Sleeves are placed on those areas where the system crosses the walls or ceiling. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And there, powerful insulation is made with the help of plumbing sealant.

Pipe laying goes with some slope. These are the requirements of SNiP. For this case, the slope is 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope in terms of cm / 1 shoulder strap. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by observing this rule, it is possible to qualitatively mount a working internal sewage system.

And also a slope less than 2% and more than 3% is unacceptable. In the first scenario, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, a blockage will form. In the second case, the runoff flows in these pipes will pick up too much speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and the solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

Note: for work you will also need a soldering iron and a puncher.

The work starts with the release - the area where the internal and external sewers converge. With such a beginning, you will not allow these systems to mismatch. Installation of the release goes through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth inferior to the depth of soil freezing in your area, then the pipe must be thermally insulated. Otherwise, the outlet will stiffen, and the sewerage system will only be able to work in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, it must be arranged.

The required sleeve diameter is 13 cm. The sleeve extends at least 15 cm from each side of the base. The hole and installation of the sleeve comes with a slope of 2% for external sewerage next to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet necessarily matches the diameter of the riser.

The best position for a riser is a bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating drains from the toilet will be short. The following trend operates here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and the plumbing. device, the closer its position to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can make a gasket in boxes, in walls, you can work in an open way. For the installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If there is a point in your scheme where the outlets from the shower, bath and sink converge, then you need to install a collector pipe there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

To protect your home from unpleasant odors, install water seals. The audit must be mounted on each riser. Each turn of the sewer must end with a cleaning. So, if the sewer is clogged, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward already in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After that, this pipe is displayed on the roof. It is not allowed to combine it with home ventilation.

The exit must necessarily exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and the fan pipe itself must differ in height.

Having mounted the internal sewage system, it must be thoroughly shed with clean water. In this way, the tightness of all connections is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewer is a network of pipes from the outlet block to a septic tank or treatment plant. Pipes are laid in the ground here.

Pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it is also better to lay pipes of bright color so that they are easier to notice in depth. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

There is different types external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where sewage is collected. Today, preference is increasingly given to various septic tanks and total cleaning stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

Two-chamber.
Three-chamber.
With biofilter.
With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

The needs of all residents of the house.
The number of these residents.
Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
Estimated water consumption. It is understood how much each tenant spends water daily. Here, the number of plumbing fixtures in the house, and whether there are household appliances, also matters.
level ground water on your territory.
The parameters of the territory itself. Here the areas for the treatment equipment are calculated.
Soil type.
climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or treatment plant you buy is also a matter of your budget. And also here it does not hurt to consult with specialists.

It is also important to take into account some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

The garden and the septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
Any source of water and a septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in the organization of external sewerage is the competent choice of treatment technology. Earthworks and laying do not cause any particular difficulties.

As for the general scheme of external sewage, it must include:

a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
waste disposal channels to the point of disposal;
sump ( cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

Creation of a trench. It connects house drains to a sump. Trench slope: 2 cm/1 m pipe towards the cesspool.
The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10–15 cm.
A pipeline is laid along this pillow close to the storage tank.
The connecting point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along the oval of the cords. The cord is treated with grease.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

For installation, use materials of the required parameters.
Make a scheme taking into account all the necessary factors.
Do not use poor quality pipes.
Do not clog sewers with heavy waste.
Design sewers at the same time as designing the house itself.
Install sewers at construction stages. This is the best option. If it has not been observed, the solution methods have already been outlined above.

How to make a sewer in a private house, see the tips in the following video:

The coziness and comfort of a country house, a private household, a country cottage cannot be imagined without an efficient, well-functioning sewer system.

Planning, arranging and maintaining the drain complex in proper condition is the object of constant close attention of the owners of individual real estate.

Understanding all the fundamental principles of building and maintaining a sewage drain, the design of the main components and assemblies of the system, it is not difficult to sewer into a private house with your own hands. This results in significant cost savings Supplies and remuneration of skilled workers.

Each home master who has created with his own hands such a complex functional system for his own home as an autonomous sewage system automatically becomes an indispensable specialist in its maintenance.

On the construction market Moscow and the region, there are many companies for the arrangement of turnkey water and sewer works. The Moscow region positions a different price range - for a small country house, the cost is in the range of 20-30 thousand rubles. For a building of medium size and with tenants up to 6 people, a drain will cost 50-60 thousand rubles. The equipment of the drain system of a large 2-3-storey cottage with more than 12 residents can pull 200-300 thousand rubles and more.

So, how to design and implement a sewerage device in a private house, which will work for decades without failures and emergencies? How to plan everything yourself, while getting a savings of 50% of the total costs? This will be discussed further in our article.

Drain design

Before starting all work, it is necessary to carefully consider the design of the entire system as a whole, as well as the composition of all its components. It is best to put your vision of the design on paper.

The drawn project will always be in sight, helping to take into account important details. Working on the drawing will allow you to plan a compact arrangement of pipes and take into account the structural features of the building.

In the project, it is important to take into account the location of each plumbing unit, designate ways to lay pipelines to the equipment, calculate required amount fittings, pipes, materials.

Specific sections of the engineering network to be laid must be designated separately, having calculated the length of the pipes and their diameters. When purchasing materials, this information will be very useful. The sewerage scheme in a private house will be a reliable help in its construction.

The design process involves the arrangement of internal and external schemes for the withdrawal of waste water.

When laying internal sewerage, the following are installed:

fan pipe
central riser
Pipes for shower, bath, toilet

External sewerage in a private house is responsible for the removal of external wastewater. It is arranged for supply to a septic tank or to a deep cleaning station. The last construction will have a high cost. If there is a central sewerage system near the house, the task of arranging an external outlet for waste water is greatly simplified, and considerable money savings are achieved.

To simplify installation, as well as to reduce costs, at the design stage, it is necessary to arrange the premises of the house associated with water consumption as compactly as possible. Thanks to this arrangement, the laying of pipes inside the house is greatly simplified.

An important tip is that the design process must begin with a riser. Only by determining the channel for the passage of the riser and the collector pipe, it is possible to outline the further location of all other constituent parts of the system.

the best material for laying sewers is polypropylene or PVC pipes, tees, fittings. They are much cheaper, but much more durable than cast iron products;
when laying drain networks, all turns in them can be mounted using two plastic elbows with a 45 degree bend. The design greatly minimizes the chance of blockages that are common with a single 90-degree bend;
for gray kitchen drains, as well as for the removal of used water from the bathroom are used pvc pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters;
waste toilet pipes should be at least 100-110 millimeters in diameter. The total length of such pipes should be no more than 1000 millimeters.

Piping and piping

Installation work during the laying of pipelines of the drain complex is considered the most labor-intensive in construction. Equipping the house with their own hands, it will be difficult for one owner to cope with the entire amount of work. Therefore, it is recommended to have one or two assistants from among family members, neighbors, acquaintances. The speed of work and the quality of sewerage wiring will only benefit from this.

Currently, the trading network and construction Internet portals offer a wide variety of plastic pipes, revisions, tees, elbows. With the help of rubber cuffs, they connect without problems and function perfectly without letting water through. The joints are treated with special building silicone sealants. In places where pipe communications pass through walls, sleeves are installed on top of them to prevent damage.

An indicative list of tools that will be needed when laying sewer pipes:

Automatic sealant gun
Screwdriver Set
Hammer 200 g
Electric perforator
Pencil
Level
Bulgarian with a long cord
Hacksaw for cutting plastic and metal

Small mistakes are always possible in such works. In order to detect leaks or defects in fittings, the finished sewerage system must be tested with clean water before being put into operation. Only after making sure of the reliability of its condition, it is possible to connect it to the existing equipment of the dwelling. Storm sewer can be combined at the exit from the house with an internal drain.

Related video:

Slope and release

An important factor in the installation of drain structures is the correct slope. Modern building codes suggest the slope of systems where there is no fluid pressure to be produced taking into account the diameter of the pipelines. 50 mm pipes should have a slope of 3 centimeters per meter of their length. Pipes with a diameter of 100-110 millimeters can have a slope of 2 centimeters in their length. Based on this, different points of the horizontal pipes should be at different heights.

To prevent non-docking of external wiring with internal, installation begins with the release of the sewer. The outlet is the place in the pipeline where the internal riser is connected to the pipe leading to the septic tank. It is laid deep in the ground through the foundation, below the freezing level of the soil of the region.

In extreme cases, if conditions do not allow and the outlet is higher, it must be very carefully insulated. Otherwise, in winter frosts, the pipe with drained water will freeze and create problems.

Related video:

Cesspool and septic tank for wastewater treatment

The most inexpensive way to arrange the withdrawal of used water from a private house is a cesspool. It is made at the rate of 0.5-0.8 m³ per person. The bottom of the pit is filled with concrete. Side walls lined with bricks, blocks, can be poured with concrete. To prevent sewage from entering drinking water, the masonry is sealed with bituminous mastic on top.

Sewer wiring is laid in a trench 1 meter deep. The ditch is blocked wooden floor, which is poured from above with liquid bitumen and installed manhole with lid.

The cesspool should be located in a convenient place accessible for sewage transport. This is necessary so that as the pit is filled, it must be cleaned. In all settlements there is a service that, at the request of the owners of private houses, sends special machines for cleaning cesspools.

When deciding to create a sewerage structure, the owner must familiarize himself with the full list of special devices that are widely represented on the building materials market. Plastic septic tanks, storage tanks, multi-chamber sewer systems - these devices facilitate the installation of the drain complex, ensuring the reliability and durability of its service.

The septic tank has more robust design, longer service life, convenient to use. Its task is to clarify wastewater and bring them into the ground. A septic tank is usually made up of several sections, depending on the expected volume of water flow in the house. According to the norms, it should be located at a distance of 20 m from a residential building. The drainage installation is mounted at a distance sufficient to prevent erosion of the soil, the foundation and the ingress of sewage into basements and wells.

The drainage system should be located below the drinking water intake level, no closer than 50 m from the water intake point. In the absence of groundwater, a filtration well is arranged instead of a drainage system. It is laid out of bricks, blocks or poured with concrete in the formwork. From above, the device is closed with a lid and covered with molten bitumen for sealing.

A ready-made septic tank can be purchased in the distribution network, on Internet portals. Often, plastic containers, concrete rings are used for this purpose. It is important to remember: the pipe leading water into the drainage system must be laid at a depth of at least one and a half meters. The depth of the sewer will prevent it from freezing in winter period. The septic tank is cleaned at least once a year. Bottom sediments turn into minerals, which are successfully used as fertilizers for the garden.

Filter well

The filter well is installed with low water consumption - up to 1 m³. A sealed housing is made, the bottom is filled with some loose filter material: crushed stone, slag, gravel, granular screenings. Similar device located at a distance of 50 m from the water intake. Its bottom is located at least one meter above the groundwater level.

It is advisable to use modern technological materials when arranging sewage for a country house. Here pipes made of PVC or polypropylene are best suited. good quality. Such materials will serve for decades, delighting the inhabitants of the house with their functionality, reliability, and smooth operation. Replacement if necessary small parts they can be easily changed without compromising the family budget.

Thus, the rhetorical question of how to make a sewer in a private house or cottage with your own hands is an attractive topic that every property owner can do for himself, choosing the best option from a variety of designs.

Having understood the ups and downs of construction, having correctly installed the sewerage system, the owner of the mansion will simply be able to independently resolve all emerging issues throughout the long period of its operation, without involving specialists from specialized companies for this.

The information from this article is useful not only for the independent performance of all work. With its help, you can find out what a modern sewerage system is for a private house, how to shop for components and design routes. This knowledge will help to competently control the actions of the construction team, prevent errors, and make adjustments to the project documentation.

Read in the article:

Basic definitions

The purpose of the project needs to be clarified. We will leave the issues of storm (5) and drainage (4) sewerage outside the scope of the article. The effluents in these systems are not too dirty, so there are no significant problems with their disposal.

It is more difficult to solve problems with household waste. They are discussed below. The figure shows the internal (1) and external (2) part of the autonomous sewage system for a private house. In this example, a septic tank (3) with a drainage field is shown, but other solutions are used in practice. For selection the best option you should take a closer look at them.

should delete domestic waste with sufficient performance.
The lack of unnecessary difficulties in the process of their disposal will come in handy.
The absence of blockages and complex routine procedures will simplify operation.
The durability of system components will increase the intervals between overhauls.

Note! For a correct assessment, consider all important factors in a complex. You supplement the purchase price of individual components with data on the service life, maintenance, and other obligatory costs during use.

Principle of operation, sewerage device in a private house

In domestic systems, a gravity drain system is used. Drains move under the influence of gravity, so a sufficient slope is needed in all horizontal sections of the sewerage system in a private house.

Sinks, showers, and other plumbing are connected through (5, 8). These simple devices create a hydraulic seal that prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer. The fan pipe (7) is needed not only for. It prevents vacuum in the upper part of the riser during a volley discharge of drains that block the working opening.

If the external part of the system is properly equipped, the liquid will be cleaned to a safe level.

Where to place the sewer on the site

Note! When choosing a suitable place for placing a cesspool, it is referred to 15 m or more from the foundation of a private house. The distance can be reduced to three meters if you install a modern biological treatment station.

Related article:

From our materials you will learn the device, the principle of operation, location requirements, the secrets of self-equipping treatment facilities for a private house, as well as advice and recommendations from specialists.

The distance to the well is increased (30-50 m). On a relief site, a lowland is chosen for installation of a septic tank, away from residential premises. The distance to the borders of the neighboring area in order to avoid problems should be more than three meters.

Functional sewerage for a private house: how to make the right calculation

During the construction of housing, an autonomous sewage system is designed together with architectural components and other engineering structures. For accurate calculations, specialized specialists take data on the drain of individual points (plumbing, other equipment). They calculate the percentage of filling of the working channel, the speed of movement of the liquid, the slope and diameter of the pipes in different sections.

The following information will help you draw the right conclusions yourself:

At the stage of preparing a general construction project, install the connection points for appliances and equipment as close as possible to the riser.
AT high-rise buildings bathrooms are installed one above the other.
To prevent blockages, track turns are made at angles less than 90°. An exception is the vertical sections of the sewerage of a private house.
Special couplings are used for a smooth transition between different diameters.
On turns and long sections, an element with a removable side cover (“revision”) is installed to simplify inspection and remove blockages.

For laying sewers in a private house with your own hands, you can use the following standard sizes:

Expert opinion

Water supply and sewerage design engineer, LLC "ASP North-West"

Ask a specialist

“The distance to the riser should not be increased by more than 5 m. The toilet bowl is recommended by specialized experts to be mounted no further than 1.5-2 m. If these rules are violated, the height difference for draining by gravity will increase significantly.”

With an increase in the distance to the vertical section of the fan pipe, it may not be enough to compensate for the vacuum. To solve the problem, in right places sewers for a private house install special valves. They let air out of the room, but prevent the penetration of odors from the drain system without a hydraulic seal.

The current building regulations set the maximum height difference. For a horizontal section of the sewer for a private house 100 cm long, it should not exceed 15 cm. Otherwise, the liquid flow moves too quickly, does not have time to wash off the pollution.

This table shows the optimal values for different diameters of the drain system while maintaining the normalized angles of inclination:

The choice of components for the sewerage drain system in a private house

To ensure good compatibility of all track components, it is recommended to use products from the same manufacturer. As a rule, specialized companies offer a varied catalog of PVC sewer pipes. It is not difficult to clarify the sizes and prices of current offers using the Internet. Such products have significant advantages over analogues:

Reasonable cost implies low costs even when equipping large properties.
Light weight simplifies transport and work operations. Plastic sewerage systems for summer cottages do not create an extra load. Therefore, it is not necessary to strengthen the power frame of the structure.
The standard connection system (with socket and integrated O-ring) speeds up installation work.
Such pipes are not subject to the destructive effects of corrosion, aggressive components of detergents.

Polyvinyl chloride is used most often when creating sewers for a private house. This material is used to create durable pipes that can be installed in a multilayer design at a depth of up to 8 meters (SN8 modifications). They maintain their integrity over a wide temperature range (from -10°C to +65°C).

Pipelines made of polyethylene are more plastic, designed for low temperatures but they can be damaged by UV radiation. They are designed to transport cold water only. Polypropylene pipes cost 2-3 times more than PVC pipes. They are able to withstand short-term movement of liquids heated up to +95°C. But it is unlikely that such properties will be needed at a great distance from plumbing fixtures.

Non-pressure gravity sewerage for a private house is not subjected to heavy loads from the inside. But even in this case, to maintain the integrity of the structure, you should choose gray PVC pipes with a wall thickness of at least 1.8 mm. For outdoor work, more durable products are purchased. To simplify identification, they are specially painted in orange.

When designing an external sewerage route for a private house, the following verification data can be used. They determine the permissible wall thickness for pipes with a diameter of 200 m:

Note! The connection of the home and external parts of the sewerage of a private house can be done using corrugations to prevent violation of the integrity of the system during ground movements. Elements corresponding in diameter (two-layer) with smooth inner walls are selected.

In sandwich constructions, ribs increase rigidity. The inside is made smooth for the smooth passage of drains.

Execution of installation work without errors: pipe connection, correct slope and other nuances

How to properly make a sewer in a private house (connect individual parts into a single system) is described in the following description:

After marking the dimensions from the plan, the pipe is cut at an angle of 90 °. To accurately perform this operation, use such a device (1). Use a hacksaw with a blade for metal, or a special tool.
With a file (2), chamfer the end part at an angle of 15 °, remove minor defects at the site of the incision. The burrs are removed with a knife.
For easy connection small plot(3) coated with special grease ( soapy water). Do not use silicone sealant. It blocks the mobility of the connection, which must be preserved in this node.
A rubber ring (4) is inserted into the recess. As a rule, such products are supplied assembled with a sealing element.
At the next stage, insert one part into the other until it stops. The visible color of the marker put a mark (5) of the corresponding position.
Next, the parts of the structure (6) are moved apart by about 1 cm.

This technology ensures reliable fastening and tightness of the connection. The created gap will prevent the route from deforming due to thermal expansion. plastic pipes during the operation of sewerage for a private house.

A working drawing can be created manually, without the obligatory compliance with the scale and exact drawings of individual products. But when compiling a package of design documentation for the sewerage of a private house, the following facts must be taken into account:

A sufficient slope is observed in all areas, the permissible maximum distance to the riser.
The route is laid without right angles, without creating obstacles to the drain.
Do not forget about installing revisions in difficult places and on long sections.

A similar drawing can be used as a basis for preparing a list of necessary sewerage components for a private house.

Related article:

In this material, we will consider in detail how its devices are mounted, we will also study it, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.

If the sewer pipes of a private house are installed in a concrete screed, it is provided reliable protection from external influences but difficult to repair. The track can be mounted behind the wall panels, inside the frame structure of the floor. In these cases, access is easier, but the noise level increases. To create comfort and at the same time maintain the integrity of the walls, the risers are fixed through damping pads. In some situations, it is necessary to install special insulation that delays the sounds of the drain. The corresponding layers are made of polyurethane foam and other moisture-resistant materials.

The official instructions indicate the features of the use of their products. The following figures show examples with manufacturer's explanations:

The external part of the autonomous sewer for giving

For year-round living, you need a continuously functioning sewerage system for a country house. What to choose for the insulation of individual sections, the owner himself will decide. But this design must be strong enough, resistant to moisture.

An attentive person will notice that the picture shows the exit from the house, located above the ground. However, many houses are made with a basement (basement). In such buildings, it is easy to make the track below the level of soil freezing for a certain region.

But do not rush to draw conclusions. It is necessary to take into account the gradual slope and distance of the treatment facilities for a private house. It is possible that they will have to be installed at too great a depth. Additional protection against groundwater penetration will be required. The cost of supplying fluid to the drainage field will increase.

After determining the depth, check the passage of the route through the site. Under roadways, parking lots, other additional loads, protection from reinforced concrete slabs, or other designs. Pipes are laid on a pillow of sand, cleaned of stones and other large fractions. Separate parts of the structure are assembled according to the manufacturer's instructions. The necessary sections of sewerage for a private house are insulated.

As well as inside buildings, sharp turns are not used here to prevent the movement of drains. On long stretches of sewerage for a private house, revision wells are installed. Connection nodes with such elements and septic tanks are made movable. This will prevent damage from ground displacement during use.

Cesspool: low cost and big problems

How to choose an autonomous sewer in a private house will become clear after studying all the options. You should start with traditional designs, well-proven by centuries of operation.

The authenticity of the origin of the last picture is questionable. However, such structures were indeed used many centuries ago. Today they continue to fulfill their functional purpose.

However, the use of such projects for the sewerage of a private house is contrary to the norms of modern legislation. Oddly enough, but it is much easier to fulfill the requirements of SanPin with the help of a classic “dream house”, located at a sufficient distance from the main building and other objects. Its depth is limited to 3 meters. This parameter is adjusted taking into account the actual level of groundwater. Structures without a bottom are allowed to be used with a total number of drains not more than 1 cubic meter. in 24 hours.

Permissible minimum distance to the well defined geological characteristics plot:

clay - 20 m;
loam - 30 m;
sand - 50 m.

Note! When carefully studying the issue, it is necessary to take into account the distances to the relevant objects in the neighboring areas.

If you want to fulfill SanPin norms without extra costs, use this drawing of a stand-alone structure (pit latrine) as a base

Closed tank: a simple solution, operating features

The figure shows important details:

Hatch (1) for inspection and removal of accumulated drains.
High neck (2), which allows the installation of the main part below the freezing level of the soil.
Large ribs (3) that increase the rigidity of the structure.
Pipe for removal of explosive gases (4). According to current building codes, its height above the ground is made less than 60 cm. The hole must be 10 cm or more in diameter.

The volume of sewage capacity for a private house is selected taking into account real needs. The main disadvantage is the rather frequent calls of the sewage machine. The depth is not made more than 2.5-3 m, so as not to complicate the removal of household waste using the typical length of hoses and the power of pumping equipment.

It is not difficult to figure out how to make a sewer in a private house (storage tank) of brick, reinforced concrete rings.

Metal tanks are rarely used due to low resistance to corrosion processes.

Septic tanks: an overview of technical solutions with professional recommendations

How to properly make a sewer in a private house will be easier to decide after a detailed acquaintance with the basics of technology. Through the transport system, wastewater enters the first tank. Here, large heavy fractions settle to the bottom, the processes of biological decomposition begin.

Through a special pipe, the partially purified liquid enters the second tank. Similar processes take place here, but with a noticeably smaller amount of mechanical impurities.

At the third stage, the smallest impurities are retained by a layer of granular backfill. The last container has no bottom. The liquid penetrates the soil and is further cleaned natural way. With the correct setting of all components, the system prevents contamination environment.

Note! A clear advantage of the technology is the reduction in calls to the services of vacuum trucks.

The number of processing steps determines the degree of sewer cleaning for a private house. Therefore, for full reproduction, it is recommended to use at least two containers.

A closed third tank is installed here. After it, the liquid is discharged to a special aeration field. This part is formed from drainage (perforated) pipes. They are laid in rows with an interval of 40-60 cm on crushed stone bedding. Ventilation shafts are installed at all ends. Such structures provide effective cleaning without the use of additional biological and technical means.

In this sewer option for a private house, you will need an appropriate free area on the land to accommodate the drainage field. With a high level of groundwater, it has to be raised to artificial embankments. Here you will have to install additional pumping equipment and control automation. The exact costs can be calculated taking into account the terrain, the number of users, and other features.

To simplify the sewerage project for a private house, they purchase ready-made equipment kits. Manufacturers offer turnkey solutions in a wide range for different conditions and needs.

How to prevent environmental pollution with an artificial treatment plant

Automated sewage treatment plant for a private house. The price of such kits is the highest in the corresponding category of equipment. However, the significant initial investment is offset by several benefits:

relatively small size;
high-quality wastewater treatment;
minimal hassle during operation.

In this model, the separation of contaminants is improved with the help of a productive aeration unit. Active air saturation of the sewer cleaning system for a private house accelerates not only biological, but also chemical reactions. Dissolved salts, iron and other impurities are converted into a solid precipitate. A well-purified liquid comes out.

When contacting specialists, the sewerage of a private house will be calculated professionally. The profile company will carry out delivery, installation and adjustment work, issue official warranty obligations. Comparing the costs of independently performing similar actions, one must take into account the cost of auxiliary procedures, the purchase of tools and consumables.

The above information will simplify the formulation of requirements for individual project. They will help to implement it without errors and unnecessary costs. Specify the sewerage parameters for a private house using the comments to the article. Communicate with experienced craftsmen, express your own opinion about the products of different manufacturers. On this specialized information platform, valuable knowledge can be obtained completely free of charge.

Video, professional installation of plastic sewer pipes

A cozy country house is the dream of every urban dweller, which can be overshadowed by the lack of practical, functional communications. Indeed, after all, private houses are residential buildings, and modern man accustomed to living in comfort. You perceive resources such as electricity and water supply not as a luxury, but as natural needs, which are quite normal and even natural to have in your private home. Needless to say, normal sewage is how important it is.

Appointment and choice of sewerage

Wastewater disposal has a certain universal name - sewerage. It can be centralized, that is, connected by pipes to the central sewerage networks (usually in the city), and autonomous.

The need for autonomous sewage is very strongly felt outside the city or in the private sector, consisting of individual houses and buildings. It can be not only residential, but also public, industrial buildings, the activity of which is associated with wastewater disposal.

As one of the most important utility systems, sewerage can be divided into two main parts:

In order to correctly and rationally choose the type of sewage for your private home, and not make mistakes, they are guided by the following parameters:

The number of consumers (residents) in the house;
The volume of water consumption per person, taking into account all plumbing fixtures in the house;
The size of the adjacent area;
Soil properties;
The degree of occurrence of groundwater;
Climate features.

In more detail, all the current rules for arranging sewerage are described in SNiP 2.04.03-85. "Sewerage. External networks and structures”.

Types of autonomous sewage for a private house

It is possible to arrange water disposal in a private house in different ways. Each of the methods listed below has its own advantages and disadvantages, weighing which is usually not difficult to make your best choice.

Cesspool- the most ancient and simple way to dispose of wastewater, which not long ago had no analogues at all. The primitive device of such a sewage system is a shallow pit with unreinforced walls and without any bottom protection. After filling it, the pit is covered with earth, and a new one is made in another place. The device of a cesspool is more or less practical with a very small amount of wastewater, not exceeding 1 m 3. Modern version cesspool is arranged with reinforced concrete or brickwork its inner part, and a gravel cushion (20 - 30 cm) for soil post-treatment of wastewater. The principle and scheme of operation are very simple: water from drains, falling to the bottom of the pit, seeps through the gravel base, dense fecal masses accumulate in the pit and are periodically pumped out by sewers. The addition of aerobic bacteria, which also help to fight unpleasant odors, speeds up the process of processing wastewater. The cesspool is designed for a small number of plumbing fixtures, and in modern country houses practically never done. The main disadvantages are: low permeability, the bottom of the pit should be located at a distance of a meter from groundwater;

Important!
Arrangement of a cesspool, regulated by the rules of SNiP. To prevent contamination of soil and groundwater, its location should be at least:

3 m from the fence;
5 m from a residential building;
10 m from the garden;
20 - 50 m from the source of drinking water.

Storage tank or tank- a ready-made and inexpensive version of such a container is widely provided today on the market from HDPE plastic. It can also be equipped with your own hands, using concrete rings, metal tanks. The principle and scheme of work: drains enter the tank through the summed up pipes by gravity. Specialized plastic sewer tanks throughout the area are reinforced with stiffeners, which also make them as stable as possible during installation. Their body is quite strong. They are equipped with an inspection hatch for pumping wastewater, which should be insulated for the winter. The burial of such tanks does not require wastewater control, and does not require any special preparation. The only drawback is that it is often necessary to sanitize the container.

Important!
The location of such a tank on the site of a private house must be foreseen in advance, since it should be convenient for subsequent cleaning using a sewer machine.

septic tank– autonomous sewer device for wastewater treatment. There are single and multi-chamber septic tanks, with a passive or forced cleaning process. The simplest is a single-chamber septic tank. In fact, this is the same cesspool, the bottom of which is strewn with a sand and gravel cushion. It can be made with your own hands from a large container, reinforced concrete rings, or by reinforcing the pit with brickwork. The walls of such a septic tank are carefully waterproofed to avoid soil contamination. The disadvantage is the low permeability of wastewater, the periodic replacement of the silted sand and gravel cushion.

A two-chamber septic tank is a more advanced design, but its scheme is simple. It provides several compartments: a sump and a filtration well. Such a septic tank is made from HDPE or fiberglass ready-made, providing for technological hydraulic seals that allow drains to pass only in one direction. There are also inspection hatches and additional chambers for preserving oxygen with vents. This is done so that natural aerobic bacteria can be used in the first chamber of this septic tank to help the cleaning process and eliminate unpleasant odors. Oxygen is essential for them, since this process is accompanied by fermentation and decomposition into elementary components of the main biomass of wastewater.

two-chamber septic tank

This simple structure is often made with their own hands, monolithic or prefabricated from reinforced concrete rings. Its inner part is reliably waterproofed. The material is relatively comfortable, but extremely durable with sufficient waterproofing measures. A monolithic septic tank can be made quite roomy. Its production is more labor-intensive than prefabricated, since for pouring concrete it is necessary to set up the formwork and the connecting reinforcing cage, which strengthens the structural elements. The pouring process itself is associated with filling, tamping and subsequent drying of the resulting structure. Such work should be done only in the warm season. A prefabricated concrete septic tank is assembled from separate concrete rings, welding them “on mortgages” to each other, and lubricating the joints with mortar and bitumen. The resulting well is divided into two halves by a partition in which a small pipe outlet or blocker is placed. Plastic two-chamber septic tanks sometimes provide for soil purification in the form of an additional chamber with water diffusers into the soil through pipes. At the outlet of a two-chamber septic tank, purified water is obtained for technical needs. The septic tank itself needs periodic cleaning from the flotation crust, sludge accumulations with the help of a sewage machine.

A septic tank with biofiltration is a design of several separate or coupled chambers in one housing, the filtration process in which proceeds in a passive mode. Operating principle: multi-stage filtration using various bacteria. The best solution would be to use anaerobic bacteria in the first stage of purification, which do not need oxygen. In the interior of its last chamber, saturated with oxygen from the aeration tank, a biofilter is placed. It is a grid with a colony of aerobic bacteria placed on it, and a backfill of expanded clay or granular polymer. This chamber creates ideal conditions for the vital activity of bacteria. The water here is purified up to 95%, which makes it quite suitable for technical needs.

Three- and four-chamber septic tanks are the most advanced on this moment designs of septic tanks for a private house. They are produced by companies producing specialized equipment for autonomous closed-type sewers. This means that they do not need any soil post-treatment. Such devices are so advanced that the usual rules for setbacks from residential buildings, penetration into the soil, control of groundwater and climatic differences do not apply to them. All chambers are united by one durable plastic case and connected by blocking pipes, the cleaning process is controlled by an electronic sensor system, and the movement of drains through its inner part is provided by one or two powerful pumps that can easily cope with volley water discharges. For the life support of aerobic bacteria, oxygen is also forced into the chambers of the septic tank. Such a septic tank needs to be cleaned every 3-6 months (depending on the volume of drains). And it’s not even difficult to do it yourself without the help of specialists. All that is needed for its operation is a small pit a little larger than the septic tank itself, piping and power supply. They are also called deep stations. biological treatment Wastewater. The only downside is that it's not cheap. However, wastewater treatment with such systems is possible up to 98%!

Photo: autonomous sewerage scheme of a private house

Deciding to properly conduct sewage in your private house, you need to pay attention to the following features:

Before starting all work, it is necessary to make a draft of the entire sewer system, which will display its entire scheme, pipes with all elements, a septic tank, as well as calculations for its patency;
External sewer pipes are best insulated so that the water in it does not freeze in frost. The recommended diameter of the pipes is 100-110 mm, the minimum angle of inclination of the gravity sewer is 5 °;
Sewer pipe connections must be reliable and tight, any leaks are excluded.

Arrangement of a private house autonomous sewerage- very important and not so difficult work. Guided by the rules of SNiPs and SanPin, you can assemble it yourself, equip it reliably and correctly, providing yourself and your loved ones with exceptional comfort for many years.