The attic is the roof under which the living rooms are located. The shape of the attic roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. The most rational solution to obtain the maximum usable area of a residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.
The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular roof, as are the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:
- Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
- Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
- Racks - vertical supports that support the rafter system;
- Purlins – horizontal supports for rafters;
- Crossbars are transverse horizontal elements that tighten the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
- Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
- Suspension - a suspended rack that supports the tightening and redistributes the load between the rafters;
- Lathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing on top of them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
- Rabs are boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.
The cross-section of roofing elements is determined using calculation; the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.
Construction of a sloping mansard roof and its differences
As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have different shape opposite slopes - it depends on the project.
Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume of the attic space significantly increases. The bottom of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as the frame for the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.
Vertical posts supported by floor beams, purlins and tie rods connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits the internal dimensions of the attic. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, hanging supports - headstocks - are installed to strengthen the truss and eliminate sagging of the crossbars. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with the racks using contractions. The elements are fastened using nails and bolts or studs.
Calculation of the dimensions of the attic roof
The main condition for a comfortable attic installation is the ceiling height - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the attic roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the internal lining of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finished floors.
Before you start purchasing materials and building a roof, you need to draw a detailed drawing that will indicate overall dimensions houses, slope line and attic height.
Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof
Technology for constructing a sloping mansard roof
- Install a Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. In wooden buildings, the top beam or log serves as the mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - buildings, the Mauerlat beams are attached to studs or anchors, fixed in the walls during laying at a distance of no more than 2 meters. Align the Mauerlat along the inner plane of the wall; the remaining wall outside is laid later decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber made from dry softwood usually has a cross-section of 100 or 150 mm. The timber is sawed off to the required length, the anchor pins are straightened if necessary and the timber is placed on top of them. Tapping lightly with a hammer. Indentations from the studs remain on the timber; a hole of the required diameter is drilled along them. You can also mark the timber using a tape measure, but the likelihood of error in this case is higher. Roll waterproofing is laid on the wall; you can use ordinary roofing felt in two layers. The Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.
- For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. The floor beams are placed either on top of the mauerlat, extending 0.3-0.5 meters beyond the plane of the walls, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are secured using corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are laid in a strict sequence: first, the outermost ones in level, then, by pulling the string, the intermediate ones are aligned along them. The pitch of floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient is a pitch of 60 cm, which allows you to lay insulation boards without trimming. To level the height of the beams, they are hemmed or pads made from boards are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be treated with coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt. Align them in the same way.
- Racks are installed on the outer floor beams. The outer racks are made of 100x150 mm timber; the height and installation line of the racks are determined according to a previously prepared drawing. The racks are leveled using a level and plumb line and temporarily secured with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviation in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A string is pulled between the outer drains and the remaining racks are placed along it with a step equal to the step of the floor beams, that is, on each beam. All racks are secured in the same way as the outer ones. You should end up with two rows of posts of the same height, running parallel to each other.
- Purlins from 50x150 mm boards are laid and secured on the racks, the purlins are secured to 150 mm nails and to corners using self-tapping screws. Place crossbars made of 50x200 mm boards on the purlins with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbars during operation, such a section of the board is quite sufficient; however, in order to prevent their deflection and increase reliability during the installation process, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports made of boards no thinner than 25 mm are placed under them. The top of the crossbar is fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, until the rafters are installed. In this case, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the tightening - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, purlins and crossbars, you have a rigid structure that limits the interior spaces of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently secured with struts and contractions.
- Installed from 50x150 mm boards. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper purlin, the shape of the cut is drawn directly on the board and it is cut out. Apply the template to the purlin in the places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all the rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, resting on the mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are secured using corners and self-tapping screws and nails.
- To make the upper rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. This can be done using a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tie from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, prepare a template from a 25x150 mm board, placing it at the edge of the installed board at the required level and to the purlin on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
- Perform according to the template required quantity rafter legs. The rafters are installed on purlins and connected at the top using overhead metal plates or cutting boards with self-tapping screws. In the purlin, the rafters rest on the notches and are secured to the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are secured using struts, installed with the lower end on the ties. This is how all the rafters are placed. Attach hanging racks - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the tie.
- Place struts under the lower rafters from a 50x150 mm board, resting them with the lower oblique cut against the floor beam and securing them to the corners, and attach the upper edge to the side of the rafter leg, nail it to one or two nails, and then drill through hole and secure it to a bolt or stud. After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and posts.
- Sew up the gables, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in wall pockets, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form the roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillers.
- , corresponding to the type of roofing - continuous or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the sheathing and installation of the roof covering, for example, begins.
A broken attic roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. Airspace, formed under the rafters, provides good ventilation of the attic, reduces heating of the attic rooms in the summer and provides additional thermal insulation in the winter. Therefore, when covering the gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the ceilings attic floor.
Video - instructions for constructing an attic roof
The attic is not only beautiful appearance home, but also a real opportunity to increase living space, to make the most practical and functional use of all the space under the roof of the house. The most relevant is the installation of a mansard roof in individual private construction, in country house or at the dacha.
To ensure that the structure is reliable and safe and does not collapse under additional loads, you must choose the right type of roof, calculate the slope, size, and materials.
In the article we will analyze in detail how to build an attic roof with your own hands, and dwell on construction technologies and design features.
Types of mansard roofs
Today it is difficult to surprise with architectural delights in private buildings; people strive for the comfort and aesthetics of their homes. The design of the attic is striking in its scope: high and low, broken and ordinary pitched, turrets and domes, complex multi-level and the most ordinary mansard roofs crown the buildings, giving each its own unique individual style.
Single pitch mansard roof the simplest in design, supported by a rafter system, or truss, on external load-bearing walls located on at different levels. Typically, such roofs are installed when constructing attics on small country houses, verandas
Gable or gable mansard roof — classic design, which is erected using inclined or hanging rafters. The slope angles of the slopes can be uniform or uneven.
A hip roof is a hipped structure without gables. Two large slopes are trapezoids, the slopes from the end walls are triangles-hips. Half-hip roofs are roofs that have trapezoids on the sides, and a vertical wall at the front, and it is cut at an angle to the ridge.
Hip mansard roof- it’s almost a hip one, but all the slopes are isosceles triangles, which meet at one point. This design is symmetrical and does not have a ridge, suitable for square buildings.
- This is, in fact, a combination of several gable roofs. The design is suitable for houses with complex geometry, with kinks and a polygonal base. Such a roof has many ribs and slopes, therefore it requires complex calculations and professional skills; making such a roof with your own hands seems to be a very difficult task.
The sloping roof is a classic attic structure; the shape of the attic roof allows you to significantly increase the usable area, and arrange inside a full-fledged living room, bedroom, children's room, office, etc. The design implies the presence of a lower steep one from 60 to 80 o, and an upper flat one of 20-30 o stingrays The design of the attic roofing system becomes more complex to the point of a truss; the slopes consist of two rafters, reinforced with posts and reinforced with guy wires at break points. The lower chord of the truss is also the basis of the floor.
Vaulted, conical, domed attic roofs used in luxury private housing construction, the design of such attics amazes with its delights. The rafter structure of such attic floors is quite complex and is made of materials that can be bent.
When several types of roofs are combined, complex and unusually effective, beautiful attic structures are obtained. Such an unconventional approach to designing an attic roof is necessary if the house has a complex shape: with protrusions, height differences, and additions. Despite the aesthetics and stunning views, complex mansard roofs have significant disadvantages - there are many internal corners(valley) with a small slope, pitched fractures, which are a risk area for the integrity of the roof and cause leaks and snow accumulation. Calculating an attic roof of this type requires special skills and knowledge; if you intend to make such an attic roof with your own hands, try to minimize the presence of complex elements.
Mansard roof, photos of the main types of floors applicable in individual construction: 1. Single-pitch 2. Gable 3. Multi-gable 4. Hip 5. Sub-hip 6. Hip 7. Vaulted 8. Conical 9. Dome 10. Classic mansard sloping roof
A simple gable or sloping attic roof will not produce the same effect as a combined one, but such an attic roof design is much more reliable, it can be calculated and built with your own hands. The choice of the type of attic roof depends on the architectural design and plan of the house, the slope of the slopes included in the project, the characteristics of the supporting structure and the choice of materials for the roof.
Calculation of the attic roof, slope angle and selection of materials
Note that the slope of the attic slopes is influenced by roofing materials and their installation scheme, but mainly, the slopes depend on the geography of construction. In snowy areas, steep roofs with a small overhang should be installed; in southern and almost snowless areas, you can make a small slope and a larger overhang. If there are strong gusts of wind in the region, then the roof should be flat, which will reduce the windage of the roof.
The standard layout of the attic roof, this arrangement of the rafters allows for the most efficient use of the attic floor area
Thus, calculating the slope of an attic roof is based on the starting points:
- desired height interior space attics;
- architectural solution;
- in which climate zone the object is located;
- what roofing material will be used.
It is optimal if the gable roof of the attic is sloped at 45° or higher, and the classic do-it-yourself broken attic roof has a slope of the lower slopes of 60° and the upper slopes of 30°. Such slopes allow you to create a room inside that is comfortable for living if you carefully think through the interior of the attic.
Roofs of houses with an attic, photos of the advantages and disadvantages of the internal space when different types roofs
A classic do-it-yourself sloping mansard roof, in addition to rafters, includes racks, struts, tie-downs, and hangers in the design. Section size structural elements calculated when calculating the rafter system.
How to build an attic roof, optimal proportions of the roof relative to the width of the house
Important: The angle of inclination of the roof slope of 60° allows one to neglect loads from precipitation. The greater the slope of the rafter structure, the longer the rafters and the larger the roof area, but the smaller the usable internal area.The maximum load from precipitation on the roof is achieved with a roof slope of 30 o; at 45 o, rain and snow do not linger.
Table showing how the choice of roofing material depends on the angle of inclination of the slopes of the attic roof
- the width of the end (pediment) is 10 m, divided in half: 8/2 = 4;
- The optimal roof height at the ridge is 2.4 m.
Here we need a school geometry course: The sine of an angle in a right triangle is equal to the ratio of the adjacent side to the opposite side:
Sin B = 4/2.4 = 1.67
We open the Bradis table and see that this sine value corresponds to an angle of approximately 59°, so we round the value. Thus, our desired slope angle is approximately 60 degrees.
Mansard roof construction technology
A broken attic roof, the drawings of which are presented in the article, is the most popular type of construction of an attic floor among a private developer, so we will analyze the key stages of its construction. Typical mansard roof designs do not require additional calculations, which greatly facilitates installation and reduces financial costs for the production of an individual project.
Mansard roof frame, diagram of the main structural elements
Before making an attic roof, a special support beam is laid around the perimeter. If the house is wooden, timber or log, then the upper crown of the walls will serve as the Mauerlat. In brick, stone, monolithic concrete or foam concrete house A layer of waterproofing is laid around the perimeter (2 layers of roofing material, bitumen-polymer mastics), flush with inside load-bearing walls, a wooden beam is installed - Mauerlat, which allows you to evenly distribute the loads from the roof and precipitation on the base and throughout load-bearing structures. On the outside, the Mauerlat is laid with cladding material; 30 mm of timber should be visible so that the load falls exclusively on the timber and not on the cladding.
Scheme of installation and fastening of the mauerlat and rafters
Advice: the timber for the mauerlat must be with cross section 100*100 or 150*150 mm.Then we install the floor beams, first lay the timber along the edges, check with a level that the geometry is correct, and attach it. We stretch the lace along the upper plane and install the remaining beams at a distance of 500-600 mm from each other. If before the required level the height is not enough, then we put slats, if on the contrary, then we cut off the mauerlat. The offset of the beams determines the width of the cornice, usually 300-500 mm. Next, we install short beams in increments of 1000 mm to install the front ebb.
Advice: Fasteners to the Mauerlat can be 150 nails, rafter corners with self-tapping screws.Installing the frame
To install the skeleton, we align the vertical posts-beams to a plumb line or level and secure them with temporary spacers. First, we install the outer ones, in the corners, pull the cord and set the middle ones in increments of no more than 3 m.
The height of the racks depends on the shape of the roof provided for by the project; usually it is equal to the distance from the ground to the mauerlat (the height of the 1st floor) or +100 mm from the desired height of the finished ceiling. We tighten the racks from above with purlins - 150*50 mm boards.
Construction of an attic roof, how to properly install a side girder
We attach bolts to the purlins using roofing corners - in an attic roof these are bars connecting the side purlins, with a cross-section of 200*50 mm. The deflection of the ties is eliminated by subsequent installation of hangers to the rafters, and until the rafter system is installed, it is recommended to install temporary supports.
Installation of an attic roof, the ties on top are fastened with a board, which gives rigidity to the structure
Rafter system
First you need to make a template from 20x150 mm boards: apply the board to the Mauerlat and to the side girder, make notes, saw off, and the template is ready. Since buildings often have errors in geometry, it is better to cut along the upper girder, and cut along the mauerlat locally.
Roof mansard type, installation of side rafters
If the length of the slope is longer than a standard 6-meter board, then it is recommended to order special lumber to suit your dimensions. But if this is not possible, then the boards are spliced; to do this, a piece of board 1.5-2.0 m long is sewn from below, but you will have to install a stand under it.
The rafters are attached to the side girder with three nails, to the mauerlat on metal plates, screws and nails, or staples.
Attic roof, we install the side rafters with our own hands, methods of fastening
Making a template for the upper rafters. We take the board and fix it on the outer crossbar in the middle, strictly vertically, one edge of the board should coincide with the central axis of the attic roof. We apply the beam, draw out the lower and upper cuts.
Attic gable roof, how to make a template for the upper slopes
We cut out a template on the ground, make left and right rafters and mount them on the roof. On the attic sloping roof, a ridge beam is not used, so the rafters are attached with a strut. Using the same principle, we install the rest of the upper rafter system.
How to properly build an attic roof, installing struts (from above) and installing the upper slope
Hanging rafters are a triangle - the simplest truss, but this design does not transfer thrust loads to load-bearing walls, so tie rods should be installed.
Mansard roof frame, methods for installing tie rods on hanging rafters
After installing the rafter system, the gable (end) frame is installed and sheathed, and the structure is strengthened in the places where the windows will be installed. Then the sheathing, cornice, overhangs and ebbs are made.
Hip-slope mansard roof, installation of gables
The rest of the way
A vapor barrier membrane is laid along the rafters, which is pressed against a counter-lattice made of slats 40*20 mm, 50*50 mm, additionally creating a gap for ventilation. The sheathing, depending on the roofing material, can be solid or with indentations. Next, waterproofing is laid on which the roofing material is laid.
The attic should be insulated from the inside; the thermal insulation layer is additionally covered with a vapor barrier to protect the insulation from condensation. Next, you can decorate the room with the selected facing material.
Be sure to watch how to build an attic roof with your own hands; the video will help you understand the key stages of constructing an attic floor.
The mansard roof is optimal method increasing the usable area of the house. In this case, the costs will be minimal. When installing such a design, you can equip one more or more living rooms. Often children's rooms or an office are arranged in the attic. A comfortable room in the attic can serve as a living room.
When arranging an attic, it is important to remember several principles that will help create a comfortable and practical room. A mansard roof is an attic arranged in a certain way. When creating such a structure, it is important to carefully approach the stages of thermal insulation, redevelopment and ventilation of the roof space. A video of building an attic roof with your own hands (step by step) can be found at the end of the article.
Advantages and disadvantages of the solution
When deciding to equip an attic space, you need to know the features of its construction. The advantages of attic rooms include:
- Appears in the attic extra room. It can be equipped depending on taste preferences and purpose.
- Low costs. The construction of an attic space will not cost much. Such work will be equivalent to building an extension to the house. At the same time, the usable area of the house expands.
- Great view from the window. Attractive landscapes outside the attic window will not leave anyone indifferent.
If we consider the disadvantages of installing an attic, we should remember the need for additional heating of the room.
Types of mansard roofs
When designing an attic floor, it is important to take care of choosing the type of roof. It is necessary to understand not only the choice of the appearance of the structure, but also the methods of its arrangement. There are several options that are most suitable for creating an attic roof. They can be chosen only taking into account the characteristics of the house:
It is important to understand the structure of the attic roof that you decide to make.
Attic construction
Each roof has its own design features. However, attic structures have a number of common features with simple pitched structures. It is important to know them before starting work:
Knowing the structure of the roof, you can begin the main work. Photos of constructing an attic roof with your own hands (step by step) will help you understand the stages of the process.
Attic construction technology
Often, architects, when drawing up a mansard roof project, do not take into account the errors of the ventilation system and the insulating layer. If there are such errors, the result may be disastrous. After just a few years, the roof will begin to leak. Since the attic is located quite close to the wall inside the room, it is quite difficult to ensure the optimal level of heat transfer. The attic design must include elements such as thermal insulation and ventilation.
Important! Elements of the rafter system should be treated in advance with various protective agents that will reduce the impact of fire and microorganisms.
The thermal insulation layer is 20 cm thick. This is due to the cold climate in most regions of Russia. In addition, if you create good thermal insulation in the summer, it will be cool under the attic roof. The advantages of this solution indicate the need to choose high-quality protective material.
In addition, you will need to create a roof ventilation system. In the summer, when the temperature is quite high, the roof will warm up very much, this can make staying in the attic quite uncomfortable. With a properly equipped air supply and exhaust system, being in the room will become much more pleasant. This same solution will protect the roof from destruction. A layer of sound insulation is laid to create a quiet and comfortable environment inside the attic. At the same time, rain, hail or strong winds will not be heard much.
Advice! when installation is performed insulating materials, it is better to work with an experienced installer. This will avoid mistakes.
Stages of attic construction
Step-by-step instructions for installing an attic floor involve performing a number of subtleties of technology. To build an attic you must have at least minimal experience construction work. The construction of an attic space will be much more difficult than in the case of regular roof. This is due to the need to maintain the required slope angles. You can figure out how to build an attic in a private house with your own hands after studying the construction plan.
You need to start by drawing up a project for the attic floor. For this purpose, it is better to invite a specialist who can accurately calculate the loads and install required dimensions elements. If you have certain knowledge, all calculations can be performed in a special program. You will also need to calculate the roof slopes and expected loads. To complete the work correctly, you will need to study the book “loads and impacts on buildings and structures.”
Construction of the rafter frame
When performing this stage of work, you will need to invite 2-3 workers. It is better to start installing the roof by laying the Mauerlat beams. They are fixed around the entire perimeter of the house. For mauerlats, 100x100 mm bars are chosen.
Then the frame of the future is mounted attic room. Its vertical elements will serve as support posts for the rafter system. First, vertical supports are installed on both sides. They are fixed to the longitudinal beams. To connect you need to use metal corners and self-tapping screws.
Advice! In the process of such work, it is better to use a screwdriver. This will significantly speed up the progress of work.
As a result of such actions, two arches are obtained. They should be connected using a string. It must be positioned strictly horizontally. Even with a slight tilt of the string, one of the arches will have to be shortened. Then other arches should be installed at a certain distance from each other. To secure the jumpers, stamped corners are used.
Then the upper rafters are installed. This kind of work is quite difficult. The rafters should be installed in such a way that they are installed at a certain slope. First, a template is made from boards. They need to match the connected rafters. When using this template, you need to trim the rafters that are on the ground. They are then installed in right place. The installation of the rafters is carried out taking into account the construction of the internal attic room.
The installation of the rafter structure ends by nailing the sheathing. It is usually made of plywood or chipboard.
Insulation of attic roof
After completing the installation of the rafter system and sheathing, you can create an insulating layer. The vapor barrier film is laid from the inside of the roof. It is fixed to the rafters using construction brackets. Then thermal insulation is performed. It is necessary to monitor the density of the insulation on the surface of the rafters. There should be no gaps that could cause problems with condensation and thermal protection of the room in the future. The sheathing structure is attached to thermal insulation with a gap of half a meter between the boards.
Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters. It will protect the attic from moisture. The roof covering is laid on top of the waterproofing layer. This roofing pattern is optimal when constructing an attic.
Attention! During construction, it is important to ensure compliance with safety requirements.
As you can see, erecting a mansard roof is a serious job. The durability of the structure depends on the degree of seriousness with which the work is approached. You can find a lot of examples of what kind of design and appearance an attic can have. Among its various types, you can choose the most suitable option. If you need to create optimal daylight, you should install a large window. Often its shape is chosen round or square. In any case, before work you should carefully prepare and draw up a project for the future construction.
Conclusions
When erecting an attic roof, some operating features should be taken into account. For example, it is important to create proper insulation and waterproofing the cake. In addition, you need to take care when choosing a roofing covering. Thanks to this, the attic roof will be reliably protected from bad weather.
Before work, a project for the future construction is drawn up. It is created taking into account the design loads and materials used. The construction plan reflects all the subtleties of the process. It is important to follow the technology for constructing a mansard roof - this will ensure its reliability and durability.
DIY attic photo
Expanding the living space in a private house after completion of construction will cause a lot of problems, including redevelopment and associated costs. But if you urgently need an additional room, there is a solution. A do-it-yourself attic roof, erected over a house, allows you to increase the living space without adding an additional floor.
The mansard roof is somewhat different from the usual one. Its design is focused on obtaining the required volume and height of the room. To achieve this goal, attics are most often made according to a gable broken pattern.
The shape, angle of inclination and design of a sloping roof are influenced by the following factors:
- the height of the snow cover and the maximum level of precipitation in your area - the higher it is, the greater the angle of inclination of the slopes should be;
- calculated thickness of sound and heat insulation - a thick layer of insulation has a decent weight, which entails the need for additional fasteners;
- in some cases, installing an attic roof with your own hands involves adding an external flight of stairs, which may also affect its design.
Technical terms and safety rules
A do-it-yourself sloping roof is assembled from elements, most of which have their own historical names:
- A beam placed along the walls, acting as a support for the rafters, is called a mauerlat.
- Wooden beams, forming the roof slope, are called rafters.
- Stiffening elements connecting individual rafters and distributing the load force between them form a suspension.
- Flat boards, plywood, chipboards and other materials on which tiles, corrugated sheets or similar roofing material are laid are called sheathing.
When working at height, it is very important to monitor your own safety. To do this you should:
- use a fastening belt;
- carefully secure the scaffolding during installation;
- do not leave electric or other tools unattended, especially switched on;
- When lifting and moving heavy loads, keep an eye on your assistants and it is advisable to always be within their visibility range;
- do not leave loose parts on the roof slopes;
- try not to be distracted by other matters when working at height.
Do-it-yourself attic photo: building a frame
Mansard roofs begin to be built from the base - the Mauerlat. It is laid along the top of the walls to connect the frame of the house and the roof structure. If the house is not brick, but made of wood, or its last floor is crowned with a wooden part, then the top log or beam can serve as the mauerlat.
In this case, the connection between the wall and the base is made using large staples, powerful overlays, nails or ties. To the old one brickwork or concrete wall the studs or anchors on which the mauerlat beam sits are driven tightly, and during construction new wall- installed during the laying process.
Mauerlat is made only from coniferous wood. The beam has a cross-section of 100 - 150 square centimeters. Coniferous wood is distinguished by its durability, resistance to stress and higher resistance to air humidity.
There must be waterproofing between the Mauerlat and the wall.
This can be a layer of thick roofing material or a durable waterproof membrane. Thanks to waterproofing, the roof with an attic will be protected from excessive moisture and wood damage. When installing the Mauerlat, you need to ensure that its surface is strictly horizontal. It will become the basis for setting the verticals and horizontals of the roof structure.
Floor beams are laid on the base so that their ends protrude 30-50 cm beyond the wall line. They are made of softwood, from timber with a cross-section of at least 100x200 mm. Attaching the beams to the Mauerlat is done with steel angles, brackets and other durable hardware.
For greater strength, at the junction of the beams, you can select pockets of recesses and lay them with one layer of roofing material. To ensure horizontal alignment, it is better to first lay the two outer beams, and level the rest along the stretched cord. Leveling is done by trimming and tamping small wedges and wooden spacers under the beams.
According to accepted standards, the pitch between the beams can vary from 50 to 100 cm. In practice, building an attic roof with your own hands is tied to the size of the materials used, and the pitch between the beams is adjusted to the width of the interfloor sheet sound-heat-insulating material, for example, construction wool. The ends protruding beyond the wall are treated with water-repellent protective agents.
The racks on which the logs will rest are installed vertically on the floor beams. They are made from timber 100x100 or 100x150 mm. Vertical position the racks are controlled by level or plumb. The construction of an attic requires mandatory control of the placement of the upper ends of the racks in the same horizontal plane.
Fixation is done by temporary or permanent bevels, both in the longitudinal and transverse directions, in relation to the axial section of the roof. For mowing, any kind is taken, it’s enough durable boards or cuttings of thin timber. The result will be two rows of racks, equal in height and parallel to each other.
On top of them, in one line with the Mauerlat, purlins are laid - boards with a section of 50x150 mm. Usually they are where the roof breaks. There are others constructive solutions, but such a do-it-yourself broken mansard roof is the easiest to implement.
The runs of parallel rows are connected to each other by tie rods. The tie-girder-beam system forms the rigid skeleton of a rectangular living space. Tightenings work in tension and do not bear lateral load. Therefore, for them you can take a board thickness of 50 mm, and a crossbar thickness of 150 mm. To prevent sagging, it is installed on the edge.
Rafters
The construction of a mansard-type roof itself begins with the stage of constructing the rafter system. With sufficient experience, it is better to assemble the rafters on the ground and move them upward for their sequential fastening on the purlins and the mauerlat. An easier, but more labor-intensive way is to collect them locally right at the top.
In this case, each board of the lower rafters is applied and cut in place, after which it is attached at the bottom to the base and protruding parts of the beams, and at the top to the purlins. The horizontal position of the installation is controlled by a stretched rope. Fastening is carried out with nails, wood screws, steel plates and staples. The lower part of the rafter leg should extend beyond the wall by 30-50 cm. This will be the basis for tamping the fillies that form the hanging part of the roof.
The upper part of the rafter system is formed by hanging rafters. They can also be collected on the ground and the finished corner can be served up. After connecting to the lower rafter legs, the ridge of each corner is rigidly attached to the central part of the tie by means of a headstock.
Under its weight, the upper part of the rafter system forms a strong self-regulating system, similar to an open umbrella. Thanks to this, any vibrations of the roof will be compensated by springiness. If the attic width is large enough, a ridge is tapped along the upper connection of the rafters. With a small width, its role can be played by the outermost boards of the sheathing.
Gable trim
The cladding of the gables can be done with any sheet material or boards. When hemming them, leave space for window and, if necessary, doorways. They are equipped with a reinforcing frame corresponding to the size of the window or door frame. At the same time, fillets are tacked to the lower parts of the rafter legs - extension boards that form the roof overhang.
The type of lathing depends on the characteristics of the selected type of roof. If it is a soft attic roof or bitumen shingles, then the structure should be continuous or with the minimum possible gaps. For hard surfaces, their size and lathing pitch are indicated by the manufacturer of the specific roofing materials.
Waterproofing is installed under the base for fastening the tiles. It is advisable to thickly treat the boards with a moisture-proofing agent. Plywood and other conifers sheet materials must be waterproof.
Insulation
A broken attic roof allows you to limit yourself to insulating the living space on the top and sides. At the same time bottom part the roof will be well ventilated, which will prevent moisture and condensation from accumulating. Due to the rafter voids, the attic will be protected with your own hands from overheating in the summer, and from hypothermia in the winter.
Attic interior lining
For the interior lining of the attic space, wooden or plastic lining, plywood, thin sheets of chipboard or fiberboard. Use heavy facing materials should not, since the entire load from their weight falls on wooden beams.
Bottom line
A do-it-yourself attic will most fully meet your requirements and will allow you to make maximum use of the attic space for organizing your living space.
DIY mansard roof step by step video
With the help of an attic you can not only increase the number of usable rooms. A building with a high pitched roof looks more solid and presentable, while its construction is less expensive than the construction of a full-fledged two-story building. Read about how to make a mansard roof with your own hands in this article.
Choosing the type of roof and rafter system
For arranging an attic, two types of roofs are most often used:regular gable: the roof has two inclined slopes, its ends are closed by triangular walls - pediments;
broken line: each of the slopes is additionally divided into two more, located at different angles; at the same time, the angle of inclination of the upper one is much less; the ends (pediments) have the shape of a pentagon.
Sloping and gable roofs
The construction of a gable roof is certainly much simpler. But the attic spaces in it, unfortunately, will be cramped, and the ceilings will be too low. Therefore, to arrange a comfortable attic, sloping gable roofs with a small (40-45°) slope angle are often used. Moreover, the smaller this angle, the more spacious the attic rooms will be. However, when constructing a more complex broken structure, it will be necessary to install additional connections between the rafters (inclined beams that serve as the roof frame).
There are two types rafter systems:
layered: the rafters rest only on the outer walls;
hanging: additionally rest on capital partitions.
The first option is used only in the absence of such partitions. But, since the load on the load-bearing walls in this case is quite high, it is possible to erect layered structures only if the distance between the main walls is up to 8 m. In other cases, it is better to use stronger hanging structures.
Layered and hanging rafter systems
They are most often installed on sloping mansard roofs. combined systems , in which the rafters coming from the ridge are made hanging, and the lower side ones are layered. This device is especially effective for roofs with a slight slope.
Combined rafter system
Frame of a gable sloping roof
To obtain a full attic with a ceiling height of 2.5 m height of the roof before its break should be equal to 3.1 m. Recommended tilt angles– 60 and 30° (the upper part of the rafters can be tilted 15-45°).
Mauerlat device
Mauerlat– lower roof support, laid on the upper part of load-bearing external walls:1. When installing a gable roof, the mauerlat is attached to both sides of the building at the locations of the rafters. Thanks to it, the load from the weight of the roof is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the wall. With a small roof mass, it is allowed to be laid only under the rafters, but in our case it should be laid along the entire perimeter of the wall.
Mounting the Mauerlat
2. To make the Mauerlat, timber is used made of coniferous wood 100×150 mm. To prevent the wood from rotting, it is better to separate it from the wall layer of waterproofing. For these purposes, roofing felt or bitumen is most often used.
Waterproofing Mauerlat
3. The Mauerlat is attached to the base using threaded rods under a wide washer. To do this, holes are drilled in it exactly to the size of the fasteners. Moreover, their frequency should be no less than the number of rafter legs, but no more than 2 m.
4. B brick walls it is attached to wooden plugs. To strengthen the fastening of the mauerlat in the masonry, you can provide special pockets, where it will be placed. It is allowed to lay a special one in the masonry wires (wire rods), with which the Mauerlat is screwed to the base. When constructing buildings made of aerated concrete or concrete slabs, an armored belt with thick metal pins inserted into the walls is provided for it. Their length should be enough to girth the Mauerlat and tighten the locknut.
5. In wooden buildings The top log of a log house or beam is used as a mauerlat.
IN wooden houses The top log of the log house can serve as a maeurlat
Installation of purlins and struts
The most common way to build an attic roof is the following algorithm:1. Mauerlats are laid first.
2. For ease of movement on the roof, a temporary flooring is prepared, replacing scaffolding.
Installation of a U-shaped roof frame
Terms used in construction
Purlins are additional horizontal beams. They may be:
skating: the upper part of the rafters rests on such a purlin; they may not be used in broken mansard roofs;
lateral: are located evenly along the entire roof slope, their number can be different and depends on the size of the roof itself and its angle of inclination.
4. Rafters made of durable timber 50×150 mm. Additional rigidity is given to the rafter legs using struts(diagonal beams used to strengthen the structure, installed at an angle of 45°, sometimes called rafter legs).
Fastening rafter legs
There are two types of rafter fastening:hard: on metal staples, bolts or using a combination of wire and nails;
sliding (hinged): if the house moves, the rafters move along the mauerlat along the “slides” provided in the fastenings.
Rigid connection of rafters
The hinged version is more reliable, as it avoids displacements or even ruptures of roof elements during seasonal ground movements. During construction wooden houses, subject to shrinkage, such fastening also helps the roof “adjust” to the new position of the walls.
Hinged rafter legs
Types of rafter fastenings
Advice. To determine the location of the upper rafters, you should make a temporary stand from several beams and nail it to the wall plate so that the upper part is exactly on the center line of the roof. You can easily align the upper rafters using it.
The upper part of the Mauerlat should be beveled. To avoid mistakes, it is better to make a template from a thinner board, which is applied to the purlin and the shape of the cut is drawn on it. If the lower part of the rafters is attached to cuts, they are cut out on site.
Watch a video on how to make a mansard roof with your own hands: