If you decide to make scaffolding, then you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will get a one-time design, which can be done by any person who knows how to work with wood, and in the second, it is reusable, but also quite easy to manufacture. In this article we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal ( profile pipe), as well as from wood (boards), we will demonstrate diagrams, photo and video instructions.
Although metal or wood is mainly used for the manufacture of scaffolding, they may differ in the method of fastening, and, accordingly, have different functional elements in their design. So, consider the main types of forests.
The constituent elements are connected by a special wedge fixation. Scaffolds of this design are highly reliable. They are able to withstand fairly large loads. At the same time, they are easy to use, they are quickly assembled and disassembled. Especially important is the use of wedge scaffolding in the construction and lifting heavy materials and nodes.
The main element of this design is a rigidly installed frame. They are mainly used for painting or plastering work. The frame in this design is connected with horizontal uprights and diagonal ties due to nodal connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolding is their low cost. Their construction does not require large investments.
In these forests, the connection node, as is obvious from their name, is a pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular with builders, as it is very easy to assemble and disassemble directly on the construction site. It often takes a day or two to assemble scaffolding. In this case, the assembly of pin scaffolding will not take much time.
If the object on which the repair work is carried out has a complex configuration, then the clamp scaffolding is great solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, height and size play an important role. working area, the distance between the tiers and the pitch of the racks. All this is selected individually for each object.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from planks. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:
- Lay out 4 racks or boards parallel to each other on a flat area. Their size should immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
- You connect the racks with each other with horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will be laid later.
- Place the 2 frames made horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
- Lay the flooring from the boards on the horizontal screeds and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the railing to the racks and fix the ladder.
If necessary, lengthen the structure of the scaffolding, connect several similar sections of boards to each other. The boards are stuffed on the support posts.
When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill holes so that the boards do not split.
Design
All forests consist of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts (they give spatial strength to the structure);
- jumpers for flooring;
- flooring from boards, on which a person will stand;
- stops (to create the stability of scaffolding and prevent them from falling away from the wall);
- enclosing element (so that a person, standing on the floor, does not fall down);
- ladder (ladder) for climbing desired level forests.
From wood and planks
There are a lot of tips on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolds themselves. So that you do not get confused in all this "diversity", try to focus on the following values:
Let's get to work:
- Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
- boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or timber 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
- boards for spacers and fencing 30 mm thick;
- boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
- nails (self-tapping screws in this case are less reliable).
Photo instruction
We bring to your attention to view a series of photos on the topic of how to make your own wooden scaffolding:
From a profile pipe
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height you need scaffolding.
- Prepare the necessary materials:
- for racks - a profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
- for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
- for connecting inserts (adapters) - profile pipe 25x25 mm;
- make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
- for diagonal elements - 2 meters each;
- for horizontal elements connecting racks from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
"Pros and cons"
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small scaffolding-goat, but a rather bulky structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.
Wooden scaffolding, of course, can be dismantled later, but the work is laborious, and the boards, if you don’t need them in the near future, also need to be folded somewhere. Keep in mind that wood scaffolding is assembled with nails, not self-tapping screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when performing work on scaffolding, wood is often stained with mortar or paint.
Home-made metal scaffolding can not only be dismantled, but also rented out in the future.
Secondly, non-factory-made scaffolding is designed to work at a maximum level of the second floor (from the ground). High altitude operation makeshift scaffolding becomes dangerous.
Thirdly, scaffolding is required quite rarely (only to repair the facade of the building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.
Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for siding installation). Accordingly, their weight increases, and rearranging home-made wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.
It is worth thinking about forests at the stage of designing a house.
If a facade work If you do not plan to do it yourself (but are going to hire a construction team), then you don’t have to think much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their scaffolding and scaffolding.
However, at the end of construction (and after some time has passed), scaffolding may be needed to carry out small facade repair work. Can this be avoided?
Of course. And to begin with, make sure that the facade of your house does not require repairs for many years. To do this, it is enough to use when building walls facing brick. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and at the same time in a fairly large range of colors.
But others facing materials(such as siding, plaster, and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.
Video
From this video you will learn how to make scaffolding for apartment renovation:
A photo
The photographs show various designs scaffolding:
Scheme
The diagrams will help you design your own scaffolding:
When building or repairing, it is often necessary to perform work at height. With the help of a ladder, it will be inconvenient to produce them. For these purposes, you can assemble scaffolding with your own hands. Exist different variants designs, which are selected based on the nature and complexity of the work. Which is better to choose the type of product, how to assemble it or make it yourself, you can read in this article.
Scaffolding is widely used in the repair and construction. It is an indispensable attribute when performing internal and external finishing works at a certain height. The size and design of scaffolding depends on the nature and complexity of the installation. The main purpose of this building element is to create a comfortable and safe working environment. This increases the efficiency of work, as well as saving time and effort.
Regardless of the type of construction, scaffolding must be reliable and durable, taking into account the location of people, materials and tools on them. The product should be placed on a prepared hard and level ground. The structure should be at a distance of no more than 150 mm from the wall for outdoor work and not exceed 100 mm for indoor.
Useful advice! In the case of using the structure for a long time, it is necessary to provide ditches for draining rainwater from the site so that the soil from under the racks of the device is not washed out.
Scaffolding consist of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts, giving the structure spatial strength;
- jumpers for flooring;
- stops designed to ensure the stability of the structure and prevent its fall;
- flooring from boards where a person will stand;
- enclosing element to protect the worker from falling down;
- stepladders or ladders to climb to the required level.
The width of the flooring should be at least 1.5 m. The height between the tiers should be at least 1.8 m. Slots no more than 10 mm wide are allowed between the boards and boards. If a continuous flooring is created, the boards can be overlapped along the length, having previously beveled the ends of the elements.
Useful advice! When performing outdoor repair and construction work, it is recommended to use a facade mesh for scaffolding, which will prevent workers, materials and tools from falling. It will also protect the finish from the sun, dust, gusts of wind and precipitation.
Depending on the composition of the functional elements and the variant of their fastening, all scaffolding is divided into four types: wedge, clamp, frame and pin. The structures are attached, rack and collapsible. The exception is scaffolding, where frames are used instead of vertical racks. There are also hanging devices that can not only be installed on the ground, but also attached to the building. These include clamp, cup and wedge scaffolding.
What material are scaffolding made of: product photos
Scaffolding - photos clearly display different options - can be wooden, galvanized, steel and aluminum. Last option is the lightest and most mobile, it is advisable to use it for indoor or outdoor work at low heights. The strongest and most durable are steel structures that are easily repaired, which cannot be said about aluminum scaffolding. Galvanized products are also durable. Their main advantage is resistance to corrosion, so it is best option for outdoor work, where they can stand for a long time under adverse weather conditions.
The price of scaffolding made of steel and galvanized will be much higher than that of analogues made of other materials. In addition, such structures are the heaviest, which complicates their transportation. However, such forests are able to withstand not only people, but also necessary tools and materials. Therefore, steel and galvanized structures are most often used for large-scale construction and installation works.
Today, metal structures from the Dmitrovsky Scaffolding Plant are very popular. Products are characterized by high strength, reliability, durability and reasonable cost.
In addition to metal scaffolding, often used wooden crafts which are simple and economical in execution. They can be easily made independently from improvised materials. However, this design is more cumbersome. Despite the fact that it is collapsible, like other analogues, the boards, due to the fact that they will be soiled and damaged by nails, can hardly be used for other activities. Such a product is designed to perform work at a maximum level of the second floor.
Frame collapsible scaffolding: product price
Frame-type scaffolding is the cheapest and easiest to operate option. The structure includes prefabricated elements made of welded hollow pipes in the form of vertical frames, supports, horizontal and diagonal ties. Due to the fact that a lot of metal is not spent on the manufacture of elements, the design is characterized by light weight, quick assembly and disassembly.
The assembly of frame scaffolding is carried out using flag mounts or clamps. Such structures are used for interior decoration premises, and during external plastering and painting works of buildings with simple facade. Due to the low weight, the scaffolding can be easily changed sectional, as well as moved to another location.
You can buy scaffolding of one of the types: LRSP-30, LRSP-40, LRSP-60 and LRSP-100, where the numerical value indicates height limit installation. However, the designs differ not only in dimensions, but also in the diameter of the pipes and the wall thickness of the constituent elements. The first two types are produced with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm, and the other two - 48 and 3 mm, respectively. The price of building frame scaffolding starts from 125 rubles/m².
Designs can be equipped with wheels, which makes it easy to move the unit on flat ground. The standard dimensions of the product are the following indicators: section height - 2 m, length - 2-3 m, passage width - 1 m. For one-time work, you can rent frame scaffolding, the price will be 55 rubles / m².
Installation of building frame scaffolding: sequence of actions
Shoes and wooden pads are installed on the prepared rammed flat ground. If necessary, screw supports can be positioned. Adjacent frames of the first tier are placed in the shoes, followed by their connection with diagonal and horizontal ties. With a step of three meters, the next two frames with connections are placed. The process is carried out until the frame lightweight scaffolding of the required length is created. Railing frames are mounted along the edges of the structure, followed by the installation of stairs.
Important! The supporting surfaces must be located strictly in a horizontal plane.
Next, they proceed to the installation of the second tier, which is also connected by ties, however, the diagonal elements are located in checkerboard pattern relative to the previous row. Here you can use crossbars, on which wooden flooring is laid. To move people between tiers, inclined stairs are installed in the places reserved for hatches.
Frame construction side scaffolding is attached to the wall in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 4 m using hooks with bushings or plugs with clamps or brackets attached to the racks of the scaffolding frames. The above actions are carried out until the required installation height is reached.
On the safety and working tier, there are longitudinal and end connections of the fences, which are mounted in the place where there are no diagonal braces. Scaffolding is installed on a plumb line. The dismantling of collapsible scaffolding is carried out in the reverse order, starting from the top row.
Mobile scaffolding on wheels
The most profitable option for quick repair are the scaffolding of the tour, which is considered a type of frame installation. The design is characterized by strength and ease of assembly. The mobility of the installation is given by the wheels located at the base of the vertical supports. A significant advantage of the tower tour is the presence of a jack in the design of the device. The height of the product does not exceed 20 m. The load capacity of the unit is 300 kg/m².
The design is made mainly of aluminum, which makes it light and easy to move. Less commonly, you can find steel tours that have high strength and reliability, but are characterized by reduced mobility due to their large weight.
Tour towers are actively used in the installation of air conditioners, lighting, video surveillance, banners, billboards, cornices, wall and balcony decoration, repair of gutters and roofs. There are two types of construction: non-separable telescopic and collapsible. In the first option, a special mechanism is provided, thanks to which the tour is advanced to required height. This type is used indoors.
For outdoor finishing or repair work, collapsible towers are used, which have a more complex design with supports and diagonal ties. Each subsequent section is built into the supports of the lower module on the bushings, resulting in an overall structure. With an installation height of 1.3 m, the structure is completed with railings and sides. Today you can rent a tower or buy scaffolding, the price of which is in the range of 150-200 rubles / m².
Mobile scaffolding on wheels should be used in cases where it is necessary to change the location of the installation frequently. Special brake screws are used to fix the structure in place.
Clamp scaffolding: design features
This type of scaffolding is the most time-consuming to assemble, since each connection of vertical supports with horizontal, diagonal and transverse braces is carried out using special clamps, which are twisted wrench. Fasteners can be deaf or rotary. Depending on this, the connection of the racks can be made at a right or any angle, respectively. Due to the fact that the installation of the structure requires a large number of fasteners, clamp scaffolding are the most expensive.
Useful advice! When assembling the structure, you can combine the clamps, which will allow you to create the installation of the desired configuration.
Due to the presence of diagonal ties, the design is durable, reliable and stable. However, this is the most difficult option for scaffolding in installation and disassembly.
The main advantages of the design are the possibility of manufacturing an installation of any shape and the expediency of combining it with another version of the auxiliary rack metal structure. Such a structure is mounted around the perimeter of a building of any configuration, even in the presence of protruding elements. The device can be used for inclined structures.
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Manufacturers produce various options clamp-type scaffolding, characterized by a maximum installation height, which can be from 30 to 80 m. Standard Width scaffolding - 1-1.5 m, layer spacing - 2-2.5 m. These parameters vary depending on the configuration of the structure. The maximum load on the structure is 150-250 kg/m. The unit can be bought or rented. The price of scaffolding starts from 250 rubles/m2. Rent will cost 80 rubles. per m2.
Useful advice! Clamp scaffolding is recommended for creating stages and stands.
Wedge construction mobile scaffolding
This design is created from functional elements using a special wedge fixation. Pipes with flanges are used as vertical components, pipes with holders are used as horizontal components. To make the installation mobile, it is recommended to equip it with special wheels. Such forests are characterized by strength and reliability. When installing the installation, it is possible to change the angle of direction of the connecting elements, due to which multi-level structures of various configurations are created.
Manufacturers produce wedge scaffolding in size: section height - 2 m, length - 2-3 m, passage width - 1-3 m. The structure can have a height of 60 and 100 m. are used during the construction of complex facilities in the case when heavy components and materials are lifted.
Useful advice! To ensure the safety of people who may be near the construction site, it is recommended to buy a scaffolding net designed to protect the facade of the building.
Scaffolding is easy to use, but requires laborious installation. The design is characterized by versatility, due to which it can be used not only in the construction of buildings, but also in the construction of stages, stands, canopies, overpasses. This is an indispensable unit in ship and aircraft construction. The cost of construction starts from 425 rubles / m². You can rent scaffolding for 85 rubles / m².
Collapsible metal scaffolding pin type
Such structures are very popular in construction sites due to easy and quick assembly and disassembly of the unit. As a connection node in scaffolding, pins are used, which are located on bearing supports. They are joined with holes in the pipes of the connecting elements. Installations are characterized by strength, reliability, rigidity, stability, wear resistance and durability. They can be used repeatedly, easily transported from place to place in disassembled form.
Due to the high load-bearing capacity, the structure can withstand a significant amount of heavy loads. building materials. Such scaffolding is used in areas with complex terrain and in the construction and installation works of structures with a curvilinear configuration. The disadvantages of the design include a large weight of the installation, which is associated with a significant amount of metal.
Today, the sale of pin-type scaffolding of the following varieties is carried out:
- LSh-50 - up to 50 m high, sectional height 2 m, length 1.5-3 m, passage width 1-2 m;
- LSPSH-2000-4 - 40 m high, passage width 1.6 m, section height 2 m, length 2.5 m;
- E-507 - 60 m high, passage width 1.6 m, length and height of sections 2 m.
You can buy a structure from 519 rubles / m². Also, some companies offer to rent the unit. The price of m² of scaffolding is 90 rubles/m².
DIY wooden scaffolding
If there is a desire to save money, and wood materials are at hand, then you can create a structure yourself. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you should study the requirements for the product so that it is durable and reliable.
The distance between the vertical posts should not be more than 2.5 m. The height of the installation reaches 6 m. The width of the flooring can be any, but not less than 1 m. It is important that not only a person, but also the tools and materials necessary for work can fit on it .
For supports and racks, use wooden bars section 100x100 mm and boards - 50x100 mm. The thickness of products for spacers should not be less than 30 mm, and for flooring - 50 mm. For stiffeners, you will need products with a thickness of 25 mm. Thin boards can be used as enclosing elements. To create a reliable structure, it is necessary to use only construction nails. Self-tapping screws are not able to create a reliable connection.
Useful advice! When installing wooden scaffolding, you should take care of their convenient disassembly. To do this, it is not recommended to hammer nails completely, and you can also use a wooden gasket between the structure element and the hat.
After the complete set of installation is prepared, proceed to its assembly. Work begins with large functional elements. On the horizontal surface two beams are laid at a distance of the length of the structure so that the tops of the elements converge slightly, which will add stability to the installation. For example, if the distance between the lower ends is 3 m, then between the upper ends there should be no more than 2.6 m. inside supports are attached to the sidewalls, which are the basis for the decking. A similar operation is done with the other two bars.
Useful advice! Lateral transverse elements must have different lengths in order to obtain a pyramidal structure as a result.
The sidewalls are arranged vertically and lean towards each other for stability. The position is fixed with long transverse nails. To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall of the structure, it is recommended that the crossbars be made with an allowance of 20-30 cm.
Racks are installed at a distance of 2-2.5 m, which depends on the thickness of the boards that are used for flooring. The elements are fastened together with the help of slopes, thanks to which the structure does not fold to the side. The more jibs and crossbars, the stronger and more reliable do-it-yourself scaffolding is made. If the height of the structure is more than 3 m, it must be additionally fixed so that it does not fall forward. For this, jibs are installed, which, on the one hand, are nailed to the beams, and on the other, they are buried in the ground.
The final stage is the installation of the flooring to the transverse bars. It is also possible to additionally install barriers above each platform in order to increase safety. If you add to the side elements cross bars, a staircase is formed. To give the structure stability, the ends of the supports should be sharpened and buried in the ground.
Attached scaffolds and construction goats
Attached scaffolds are used for simple finishing work, where lightweight materials are used. wooden structures lean against the surface of the wall of the building and are held by the stop. Despite the fact that the installation looks unreliable, it is convenient and safe to work on it. There are two versions of side scaffolding: traditional and Armenian. The first installation is simple and reliable, however it is not adjustable in height. It can be used for filing a roof overhang, installing a drain and other works that are characterized by a small variation in height.
Armenian forests are made from a minimum amount of materials, they are easily and quickly assembled, moved and disassembled. The main thing is to make triangles, raise them to a given height, place them in 3 m increments and support them with inclined beams that are fixed in the ground.
At outdoor decoration one-story buildings and for work on the gables, construction goats are used, where the flooring is laid on wooden beams. Installations are also used in cases where it is impossible to rely on anything on the walls. The design is not bulky and light, it can be moved to the right place.
The construction goat is a quadruped wooden structure, resembling the shape of the letter "A", the height of which reaches the height of the master. The number of spacers can be arbitrary. Conventional canopies are used to connect the upper ends of the supports. Legs are secured with stoppers. On one side, the rack can be made vertically, without tilt. This will allow you to install the structure closer to the wall, which is convenient for painting, caulking or preventive treatment.
Thanks to the many options for scaffolding, it is possible to select the design necessary for the performance of specific works. When choosing a product, it is important to take into account not only its cost, but also the features of the area, the surface to be treated, the timing of the work. Based on this information, it is easy to choose your own type of construction for each case.
During the construction, repair and maintenance of a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at a height. With the help of a ladder, not everything can be done, and it is not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.
Homemade wood scaffolding
Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often they are made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all that is needed is a saw, nails / screws, a hammer / screwdriver / screwdriver. The set of tools is uncomplicated, which any owner can find, and if there is nothing, then a lot of money is not required to purchase. Metal in this regard is more difficult. It requires at least some handling skill, the presence welding machine and at least some idea of how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made of wood.
What to do
Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short time. But it is necessary to use for their manufacture construction timber good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some masters advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and almost do not affect the strength of the board.
But spruce boards are rarely available, but pine is usually enough. From pine boards scaffolding can also be done, but each of them must be checked (in any case, which go to the racks and flooring). To do this, two columns are added (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. A board is placed on the posts, standing in the middle, they jump on it a couple of times. If there is weak spots board will break or crack. Withstood - can be used.
It is necessary to speak specifically about the thickness of the board, being tied to the design of scaffolding, the distances between the racks and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that for racks and flooring, a board with a thickness of 40 mm or 50 mm is most often used, for jibs - 25-30 mm. Such a board can be used in the most detailed construction work, if it is possible not to damage it when dismantling the scaffolding.
Nails or screws
There is always a dispute about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at height, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view better nails. They are made of soft metal and under load, they bend, but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, and it is brittle and breaks in the presence of shock or variable loads. For scaffolding, this is critical - there were cases when they fell apart. But this is about "black" screws. If still anodized - yellowish green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not loved due to the fact that it will not work to disassemble the connection quickly and without loss - most often the wood is damaged.
At self-manufacturing scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything on anodized self-tapping screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each joint. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, trimmings of thin boards can be placed under the nails; whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used for an extended span. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.
Designs and their features
For different types works use different construction scaffolding and scaffolding. For work with lightweight materials too big load bearing capacity need not. In such cases, add-on scaffolds or scaffolds-envelope are made.
For work on gables or for exterior finishing of low one-story house construction goats are used, on the rungs of which the flooring is laid.
For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - all these works require full-fledged scaffolding.
As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Let's take a closer look at each of these structures.
Side scaffolding
They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply lean against. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter "G", only deployed in different directions.
In the figure on the right, a simple and robust design scaffolding. Their only drawback is that they are not adjustable in height. Convenient, if necessary, for example, to hem roof overhangs, mount or clean a drain, all those works that have a small variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (beams). It is convenient to roll up or lift logs along the edges of the stops.
They are reliable - they can withstand an 11 meter log and three people Construction scaffolding- simple design
In the picture on the left, an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. It is attractive in that it requires a minimum of building materials; they can be assembled / disassembled / moved in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting it to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.
For the manufacture of triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - for it it is convenient to raise the scaffold to a given height. The upper crossbar is made with a length of 80-100 cm, flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.
In the manufacture of corners, the joint must be positioned so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase the reliability of this node, you can use metal lining in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed with the help of three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.
Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the facade allows, they are nailed; if not, they manage only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other - on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from a bar, a board with a thickness of at least 50 mm, a pipe of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or a section (for a profiled pipe at least 50 * 40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in a corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed by driving in wedges.
To exclude the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. Here for these jibs you can use unedged board if it is, but of sufficient thickness and width.
If it becomes necessary to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed more than 6 meters long), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, removing part of the load.
Now a little about the flooring of these side scaffolding. It is made from a wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is desirable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is highly desirable.
Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos
The options described above are good if the job does not involve the presence of heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or a multi-layer wall - and you will not be able to install such a structure. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their construction is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.
For their device, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. These are two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They must be made on the basis that the minimum more or less comfortable flooring width is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability racks can be made tapering upwards.
Racks are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding is.
To prevent the scaffolding from falling, they are propped up with boards / beams, one end of which is nailed to the racks (nails), the other is buried in the ground
The crossbeams prevent sideways folding, but there is still the possibility that loose scaffolding could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffold is 2.5-3 meters, this may not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.
If the work will be carried out at high altitude, it is advisable to make a railing. They can be made from a not very thick board, but there should be no knots, as well as cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights feel more confident at the top.
Up to the floor level of the second floor, a standard molding is enough - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - what is on the farm
Construction goats
There is still a way to make light mobile scaffolding - to build the same construction goats, stuffing the crossbars with a certain step, which will be both a ladder and a support for the floorboards.
This version of scaffolding is good, for example, when sheathing a house with siding. Sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix against the wall. Therefore, this option for such a case is the best.
Construction goats - options
Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilt. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases, this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventive treatment.
Types and units of metal scaffolding
When building a house from stone, building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the cheapest type of building material. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put into action - used in further construction. And the metal parts should gather dust in.
But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. The owners of wooden houses still have to use them from time to time: the log house requires maintenance, so once every two or three years, forests are needed. In this case, metal ones are more practical than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.
All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical posts connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:
- Stud forests. They are called so due to the fact that the crossbars with the racks are connected using pins. Pipe sections or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. Such a system is assembled very simply, withstands heavy loads. It is very easy to implement pin scaffolding for buildings of a simple form, bypassing bay windows and ledges is much more difficult.
- Clamp. Pipes are used for racks and crossbars round section, which are fastened together with the help of clamps of a special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and mobile, you can easily bypass any curvilinear facades. Minus - limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).
Clamp scaffolding - quick assembly/dismantling
- Frame. Frames of the same size are welded from a round or rectangular pipe. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They are modular and can be easily extended both in height and length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5 / 2 / 2.5 / 3 meters, one section is usually 2 meters in height, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels - for easier movement on a flat surface. The connection of elements of the flag type - pins with a slot are welded on the frame, into which the flag is inserted. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on the pin, fixed with a flag. Sections are built up with the help of connecting pipes of smaller diameter, welded to the racks of the frames on one side. With this method, it is important to perfectly match the dimensions of the pipes so that there is no backlash.
Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs
- Wedge. With a general similarity, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. On the jumpers at both ends special locks of the "wolf's mouth" type are welded. The locks are fixed on the disc with a wedge of a special shape. Such scaffolds connect and disconnect quickly, have high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes.
With self-manufacturing of metal scaffolding, pin scaffolding is most often made. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are good only on rectangular facades, to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.
This is a truly universal building structure designed for high-altitude work. The main difference between the tower tour and other forests is its high mobility and fairly compact size. All this allows not only to work at high altitudes, but also in short time move it from one workplace to another. Sometimes a tour tower is almost indispensable, but what if you can buy it on this moment No? In this case, there is only one way out, to make it yourself.
What materials will be needed for the manufacture of tower tours?
Homemade tour can be made in two versions: collapsible and non-collapsible. Collapsible option better both in terms of transportation and storage. After all, it is much easier to disassemble the tour and bring it into the room when it is not needed, and then reassemble it when it is needed than to store it on the street. For the manufacture of a collapsible tower, you will need the following materials:
Profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - tower racks will subsequently be made from this pipe;
A pipe with a regular diameter of 15mm - this pipe will act as oblique couplers for the tower, which will give it higher strength and reliability;
Profile pipe with a diameter of 25mm - this pipe will need quite a bit and all of it will go to create jumpers;
Wheels for tower tours - in fact, they will give the tour high mobility;
Where to start making a tower?
The first step is to cut a 15mm pipe into 2m segments, the number of these segments will depend on the number of tower sections being built. One section will take 4 such segments. Then these segments need to be flattened at the ends, this is necessary in order to make it more convenient to attach them to the tower. In order for them to crumple better, you can make small longitudinal cuts.
The next step is to make racks for the tower, for this you need to cut a 30mm profile pipe into segments of 1.5m and 0.74m. Cuts 1.5m long (2 per post) will be the legs of the post, and 0.74m long (4 per post) will be the steps. Then all this must be welded into a single structure so that the distance between the steps does not exceed 30 cm. Also at this stage, the wheels should be welded to the racks.
The next step will be the manufacture of jumpers for the tower, for this we cut a profiled pipe with a diameter of 25mm into segments of 20-25cm, as well as a profiled pipe with a diameter of 30mm into pieces of 4-6cm. Then we thread 25mm pieces of 30mm approximately to the middle and fasten them by welding. The final touch before assembling the tower is to drill a hole for anchor bolt, which will fasten the ties and racks together.
It is also worth noting that a homemade tour tower is a rather poor alternative to a factory one. It is heavier and less durable and reliable. Homemade towers do not allow you to work at significant heights and this is rather a temporary short-lived tool on which you can work only at your own peril and risk. Therefore, if possible, it is still worth buying a factory-made tour, since they are already not as expensive as before.
Tour tower, device description.
The movable tower is a tower-type spatial structure of flat frames with three steps.
Parallel frames are installed in the dumbbell nozzles and form a section. To ensure the rigidity of the structure itself, the sections are interconnected by ties, which are attached to the locks of the dumbbells. The lower sections are installed on two bases, which are interconnected by a volumetric diagonal.
The bases have four screw supports and four wheels. The wheels are used to move the tower. Screw bearings compensate for irregularities in the supporting surface. The tower with the help of screw supports must be installed so that the wheels do not touch supporting surface by 2 mm.
The tower has a set of decking, which consists of two types - solid and with a hatch.
To ensure stability, the tower can be equipped with stabilizers, which are fastened with clamps to the main structure of the tower.
Safety measures during operation.
The tower must be installed strictly vertically using screw supports. The flooring of the tower must have a flat surface.
The tower can be equipped with stabilizers to ensure its greatest stability. If there is a danger of overturning by wind load or other factors, the tower must be reinforced to the building with guy wires as close as possible to the upper tier. It is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP Sh-4-80 "Safety in construction" and GOST 24258-88.
Instructions for assembling the tour tower.
Option 1.
1. Frame drawing (flag lock is shown on the callout). 2. Drawing of the fence frame.
3. Drawing of a horizontal connection. 4. Drawing of a diagonal connection.
5. Drawing of the base (main overall dimension).
6. Drawing of flooring with a hatch. and 7. Drawing of deck without hatch.
8. Drawing of the stabilizer support.
9. Drawing of the plug-anchor and bracket (supplied as a set from a height of 14 meters).
Option 2.