Grill scoop dimensions. How to make a tin scoop with your own hands. The nuances of manufacturing collapsible options

How to make a tin dustpan with your own hands, the necessary equipment for cleaning premises. An inexpensive homemade item will bring a lot positive emotions while using it.

Consider a design consisting of only two parts:

Scoop bucket
pen

LADLE

Let's cut out the figure shown in the figure from galvanized sheet steel GOST 14918-80

The dotted line shows the places of bends, their radii, directions and angles.
Punch holes in the teeth or drill them with a drill. We bend the metal along the bend lines on the beam and beat it with a mallet (a flat wooden hammer) and get a scoop bucket.

If you make a false seam on the top edge of the scoop, from the side where the handle is attached (this will give the structure additional rigidity),

then on the development it is necessary to add an additional sector with a length of 200 (mm) and a width equal to the length of the seaming line.

In the figure, the additional sector is indicated in blue.

PEN

Let's make it out of wooden block size 25x25x200 (mm). Secure the block with its sharp edge facing up. We plan the sharp edge of a wooden block. Install the block with the next sharp edge facing up. In this way we process four edges and get a regular hexagon.

how to make a tin scoop

Use sandpaper to smooth out the sharp edges where the hand is located. Let's cover it with protective decorative coating on wood.

Alternatively, you can use the handle from a blueberry harvester as a base.

Assembly order:

1. We use steel rivets to connect the edges obtained after bending.

2. We screw the handle with self-tapping screws and a press washer to the curved triangles of the hexagon.

3. Use sandpaper to smooth out the sharp edges on the metal.

Having an idea of how to make a tin scoop with your own hands, you can improvise and make a product of various shapes and sizes and for various purposes.

Advice:

For product large sizes, it is necessary to replace the false seaming with a wire one.
Do this on three sides of the ladle (on top of the ribs).
It is better to punch holes for rivets on a bent part.

Technology 5th grade

““Modeling an apron” 5th grade” - Artistic modeling. Applying the names of parts. Modeling the bib. Types of finishing. The process of creating clothes. Studying the material. Drawing of the base of the apron. Strap. Familiarize yourself with artistic design techniques. Repetition of covered material. Pocket modeling. Modeling the bottom of the apron. Fixing the material. Safety rules when working with scissors.

"Embroidery" 5th grade - Types of embroidery. Smooth surface. Five. Technological map. History of embroidery. Embroidery. Physical education break. Your mood. Image. Magic chest. Get acquainted with the history of embroidery. Safety precautions. The young girl is not big, but she dresses the whole world. Counted embroidery. Safety precautions when working with an iron. Hand tools and materials.

“Natural fibers” - The finished fabric is dyed or printed with a design. Packaging in bales (pressing). Warp. Sewing materials science. In the spinning shop, threads are drawn and twisted from the roving. Carding shop. Pre-cleaning. Classification of natural fibers. How is the fabric obtained? Tape shop. Get yarn. Edge. A thin thread obtained by twisting fibers. Dividing the fiber into narrow strips (roving). Shuttle.

“Product manufacturing” - Selecting an option. Basics of design. Product.

How to make a tin scoop with your own hands

Product assembly. Manufacturing of the product. Transferring the drawing to the workpiece. Fundamentals of design and construction. Idea. Thinking over an idea. Drawing up a drawing.

“Design and modeling of an apron” - Design and modeling. Choosing fabric for an apron. Modeling methods. Modeling the main part of the apron. Pocket modeling. Modeling the bib. Measurements for constructing a drawing of an apron. Apron finishing options. Types of aprons. Purpose of the apron. Modeling an apron. Modeling.

“Natural fibers of plant origin” - Fabric taken from the loom. Cotton plant and cotton fibers. Natural fibers of plant origin. Types of weaves. Materials Science. Properties of cotton and linen fabrics. Fabric finishing. Primary processing of cotton. Sewing materials science. Flax. The process of obtaining fabric. Impact of various factors on flax and cotton. Fabric production. Textile.

There are a total of 29 presentations in the topic “Technology 5th grade”

5klass.net > Technology 5th grade > Sheet metal processing > Slide 34

DIY scoop

Manufacturing technology for forged devices

(Blacksmith tools)

Everyone knows how necessary fireplace and stove appliances are in the everyday life of rural residents and summer residents. Before we get acquainted with the technology of their manufacture, let's look at modern designs forges, using which you can count on success in your undertaking.

Rice. 1. Forge for “two lights” with a fan: 1 - umbrella; 2 — furnace nest (hearth); 3 - stand; 4 - fan; 5 - air duct; 6 - air damper; 7 — water tanks; 8 - partition.

Rice. 2. Cast tuyere (a) with replaceable grates (b): 1 - tuyere body; 2 - air damper; 3 - pipe; 4 - bottom cover; 5 - load.

In Fig. 1 shows a “two-fire” forge. Two blacksmiths can work with such a forge. The air supply to its centers is carried out by a fan with a 0.5 kW motor, and this supply is regulated by a special damper. Its design is shown in Fig. 2.

A modern lance is made of cast steel and has replaceable grates with different blowing holes. Holes arranged in a circle produce a wide torch flame, while slotted holes produce a narrow, oblong flame. To heat small massive workpieces, a torch flame is required, and for local heating long workpiece- narrow flame.

We can offer two designs of forges (Fig. 3) with hand and foot drives for air supply. If you cannot find a suitable fan, then “wind blower” 4 can be made from plywood the same way it was made in the old days.

Rice. 3. Ancient horns: a - with a “wind blower” and manual drive; b - with foot drive, 1 - box with sand and burnt earth; 2 - hearth; 3 - brick screen; 4 - “wind blower”; 5 - manual drive.

Rice. 4. Forging pliers: a - for round and square workpieces; b - for flat workpieces.

Rice. 5. Backing blacksmith tool: a - chisel; b - ironing board; c - acceleration; g - punch; d - cutting; e - cone; g - fork; z - slope.

Rice. 6. Poker (a) and its manufacturing technology (b - h).

Rice. 7. Grip (a) and forging sequence (b-d).

Rice. 8. Chapelnik (a) and forging operations (b - d).

To manufacture complex blacksmith products, you need to purchase: two types of pliers (Fig. 4); backing tool: chisel, smoother, straightener and punch (Fig. 5, a-d); as well as undercut, cone, fork and slope (Fig. 5, e-h).

Let's consider the backing tool of the first group. Work with it is carried out in a pair of “blacksmith - hammer hammer”.

Chisel in our case it is intended to cut metal. Depending on what material needs to be cut (cold or hot), the sharpening angle a is selected. For cutting hot metal, a is taken to be 15-30°, and for cold metal - 60-90°.

ironer used to level the forged surface of a product in a heated state.

Overclocking used where it is necessary to “disperse” - expand a part of the workpiece in a certain place.

Punchers, as the name suggests, punch holes. Each hole profile requires its own punch with a given bit cross-section.

The blacksmith holds a backing tool (chisel, smoother, sharpener or punch) and gives commands to the hammer: “hit”, “harder”, “quieter”.

The backing tool of the second group is installed with a shank into the square hole of the anvil and is designed to perform various forging operations. The undercut allows you to cut workpieces by placing them on the undercut blade and hitting them from above with a hammer. The cone helps to straighten and make ring elements. The fork is widely used in all kinds of bending operations. The slope makes it easier to forge conical elements of products.

Let us now consider the technological methods of forging devices for the Russian stove.

The poker (Fig. 6) consists of two elements: a forged hook and a wooden handle (handle).

We forge the hook from a round piece, dia. 20-25 mm. To keep it heated, we use special pliers. With the first heating, we warm up the central part of the workpiece and “pull out” the neck (Fig. 6, b) on the anvil. Then we heat the front part of the workpiece, stretch it onto a “rectangle” (Fig. 6, c) and, using a backing tool (straightening), we begin to forge the metal into a “wide wedge”. In this case, first we set the alignment in the center of the workpiece and make the first “punching”, then the second and third (Fig. 6, d). After the next heating, we make two more punches - the fourth and fifth. The surface took the shape of a wide wedge - a fan. Now it needs to be well leveled (Fig. 6, d) and pulled with a hammer to a thickness of 0.5-1 mm.

Then we proceed to molding the sleeve. Using the undercut and the back of the hammer (Fig. 6, e), we bend the sleeve.

Gradually tapping the bushing (Fig. 6, g), we obtain a conical surface.

Making the working part of the hook is much easier: we pull the round part of the workpiece until rectangular shape and bend the hook (Fig. 6, h). Now let's mechanically process the hook, drill a hole in the sleeve for the screw, drive in the handle - the poker is ready.

Grip(Fig. 7) has its own characteristics. Let us determine for which cast iron (by size) a grip is needed and set two sizes: the clearance between the horns Q (Fig. 7, a) and the diameter of the inner circle 0. The clearance between the horns should be slightly larger than the diameter of the bottom of the cast iron, and the internal diameter of the grip 0 - slightly less than the maximum diameter of the cast iron shoulders. Thus, the housewife should have as many grips as there are cast iron pots of different sizes.

Now let's move on to making the grip itself. We make the sleeve in the same way as for a poker. After forging the other end into a rectangle, we cut it lengthwise using a chisel (Fig. 7, b) and bend it 90 degrees. one branch. After this, we stretch the second branch onto the pyramid, make a small curl at the end (Fig. 7, c) and bend it 90 degrees. We heat the first branch, straighten it, pull it onto the pyramid and make a small curl at the end (Fig. 7, d). Then, after the next heating, using a fork, we successively form the grip horns (Fig. 7, e).

We process the grip with a file and insert the handle into the sleeve. Ready.

Frying pan or chapelnik(Fig. 8), as it was called in the old days, is also included in the set of accessories for the Russian stove.

The technology for making a chapel is initially exactly the same as for a grip. After the sleeve is made and the second end of the workpiece is pulled onto the rectangle, we begin to forge the hook.

First, bend it 90 degrees at the edge of the anvil. part of the workpiece and forge the edge of the fold, forming a spatula (Fig. 8, b). Then we form the hook itself, gradually bending it at the edge of the anvil (Fig. 8, c). The final bending of the hook must be carried out taking into account the shape of the edge of the frying pan (Fig. 8, d).

Fireplace appliances differ from stove appliances in their lightness, elegance and beauty. They perform not only their direct functions, but also serve as decoration for the fireplace room.

Poker(Fig. 9, a) can be made from rods of both round (dia. 12-14 mm) and square (10-12 mm) sections.

Let's consider the technology of making a poker from a rod of dia. 12 mm.

We stretch one end of the round piece onto the rectangle and make a small curl at its end. After that, use a fork to bend and form a handle. Similar operations are necessary to form a hook: drawing into a rectangle, forming at the end of a curl, and bending “on a fork.” To make the poker more elegant, we will make a twist in the middle of the rod. First, we stretch the central part onto the rectangle, and then, using a blacksmith’s (or metalworker’s) vice and a poker hook as a lever, we twist it (Fig. 9, b).

Rice. 9. Fireplace poker (a) and twisting operation (b).

Rice. 10. Scoop (a) and its forging (b-d).

SCOOP WITH A TWIST

Forceps (a) and the sequence of their manufacture (b-d).

Rice. 12. Options for forged handles (a), various shapes of scoops (b) and methods of attaching them to the handles (c).

Scoop(Fig. 10) can be made like this. First, we forge the handle of the scoop using the same technology that was used when forging the poker. Only instead of a hook you need to forge a “leaf” and bend it to the shape of a scoop.

Let's consider the technology of forging a “leaf”. Having heated the workpiece, we pull its end to a “steep cone” (Fig. 10, b), then flatten it and get a “leaf” (Fig. 10, c). If we bend the handle to the shape of a scoop (Fig. 10, d) and rivet it to it with two rivets, then the scoop will be ready. The scoop is usually made of 0.5 mm thick sheet steel. First, it is advisable to make a pattern model from thick paper. You need to decide on the size and shape and only then make a metal scoop. Using a sharpened metal rod (scriber), we draw a scoop pattern on a metal sheet (Fig. 10, e), and then, using an anvil and metal strips, we bend the scoop. First, the back part (1), then the sides (2, 3) and bend the upper part of the back wall (4) in the opposite direction.

Fireplace tongs(Fig. 11) we will forge using all our acquired experience. First, we stretch the central part of the rod onto the rectangle (Fig. 11, b) and using a fork, hammer and anvil horn we form a spring ring (Fig. 11, c). After this, we align the branches of the tongs along the length (if any branch turns out to be longer, then it must be heated and chopped off with a chisel). We will make the grips in the form of leaves (see technology above), and the places for holding by hand - by twisting (Fig. 11, d). These places must first be stretched onto a rectangle.

After making all the devices, they must be thoroughly straightened and blued. It will give the products a finished look and protect them from rust. The products are uniformly heated to a temperature of 300-500 °C and lowered into a tank with used machine oil. If the bluing did not work out as expected the first time, it should be repeated. After this, the products are wiped well with a rag. Options for manufacturing forged handles are shown in Fig. 12.

DIY folding grill

A folding barbecue, made by yourself, is convenient during transportation and does not take up much space in the car. For lovers of barbecue in nature, this design is intended, which can easily be made independently.

The design consists of four components:

Bottom (3)
side walls lengthwise (2)
side walls width (1)
legs (4)

Folding grill made of angle and sheet metal three millimeters thick. With such a thickness of the metal, exposure to high temperatures does not deform it. Best option, if all the structural parts are made of stainless steel, we will get an “eternal” version of use.

Consists of two parts:

The circuit is welded from a metal corner GOST 8509-93
the plate is welded to the contour

The size of the structure can be any, it all depends on your appetite and the amount of meat cooked at one time.

SIDE WALLS

Let's drill through holes for better combustion of coals and cut grooves to fix the skewers at the desired angles.

Length

Width

To make grooves, we weld pieces of metal on both sides of the sheet.

LEGS

We will make it from metal rod GOST 2590-88, Ø12…14 (mm).

Assembly order

1. Let's bend the development of the long wall on both sides. In order for both parts to turn out identical, two sheets of blanks must be inserted into the bending machine.

2. Let's measure the distance between the two bent planes.
3. Cut the long corners to the resulting size. The corner should fit tightly into the cavity between the bent sides.
4. Let's weld the bottom.
5. Let's drill through technological holes:
– 4 for pins Ø6 (mm);
– 4 threaded M 10
6. Let's cut the thread
7. Place the side wall against the bottom and insert the pins. The wall should open to an angle from 0° to 90° (the plane of the corner will fix the angular movement of the wall at an angle >90°).

8. Let's weld the pin with inside bottom.

9. Screw the legs into the threads.
10. Side walls width, insert through the grooves.

DIY scoop made of tin

A folding barbecue, made with your own hands, is ready for use.

This model will be easy to disassemble and assemble within one minute, and the dirtiest surface will remain inside. We place the disassembled parts inside the grill.

As you can see, when assembled it is a small suitcase. If you want to carry it in a vertical position, you need to install a simple lock on the folding walls and attach a handle to one of them.

Barbecue masters can prepare this dish even in the middle of a deep forest without a single device for this. But it’s still much nicer and more convenient to use reliable, proven and durable devices for cooking outdoors. But most often this process occurs with the participation of barbecues.

Peculiarities

The most common barbecue device is metal grill.

Here are its main advantages.

Simplicity. Most often, a barbecue is a box with legs, into which firewood or coals are poured, a fire is built, and skewers with meat or a grill with vegetables are placed on top.
Mobility. Some metal models can be used anywhere: on the ground, on a concrete platform, on a terrace and even on a sandy beach.
Functionality. Even the simplest inventions can be decorated with ornate forging, which can serve as additional hooks for hanging skewers or a net. You can build a structure with a roof or with additional shelves.

Safety. The metal does not burn, does not melt and does not create fires. And this is a big plus.
Economical. Even in the absence required material and the desire to make a metal grill yourself, you will spend a small amount of money on its purchase.

The disadvantages include not always aesthetic appearance and the fragility of some models. However, all these nuances are eliminated and adjusted individually for each user and for each case.

The unique feature of metal barbecues is that you can easily make them yourself.

To do this you do not need to have any special knowledge or skills. You just need to decide on the model and materials, listen to the advice of professionals or simply knowledgeable people, and also be sure that your plan will be realized 100%.

Design and principle of operation

Starting to look at the device from bottom to top, you definitely need to pay attention to the legs. As a rule, these are four metal corners, pointed downwards, so that they can be stuck into the ground. The height of this element is selected individually if the product is made to order. In construction and gardening stores, you will most likely come across standard universal models with a length of 80 to 120 cm. Metal reinforcing rods are sometimes chosen as this element; some craftsmen resort to a forged design of the base of the barbecue.

There are also unique homemade designs installed on the lower iron part sewing machines, unusable tables, etc. Almost anything that holds firmly on any surface and can withstand the weight of a metal box and its contents during cooking over a fire is used.

The steel box, which consists of four sidewalls and a bottom, represents the basis of the barbecue structure. Often bottom part This box is made reinforced to increase the service life of the entire structure. The side walls must be perforated so that heat does not accumulate in one place and air circulation occurs. Thus, a kind of blower is created, like in stoves.

On the upper edges of the long sides of the metal box, recesses are made, into which skewers are then very conveniently inserted. This allows minimizing the movement of mini-spits on metal.

The principle of operation of such barbecues is known to everyone. Coals or logs of firewood are laid out at the bottom of a metal box and a fire is lit. When the fire dies down and only coals, ash and the heat from them remain in the grill, skewers with pre-prepared meat or vegetables are laid out on the structure in orderly rows. The heat in the hearth is maintained by improvised means, which create a powerful flow of air into the structure, but do not re-light the fire in the ashes.

Types of structures

As for various designs, which involve comfortable cooking of barbecue, then you should first understand the main types of metal barbecues.

There are four types in total.

Disposable. Grill on a quick fix. Everything that can be found nearby is used - from tin cans up to two U-shaped metal profiles.
Stationary. The second step in the evolution of metal barbecues. Simple, economical, sustainable. Can be used both outdoors and under a canopy. If necessary, you can add a roof, a hood (or even a chimney), a pot stand and a double bottom.

Collapsible. It differs from the stationary one in the way that the barbecue elements are attached to each other. In the first, all joints are spot welded. In the second, they are screwed with metal bolts or hinges, which allows it to be disassembled for a time when it is not in use.
Folding. Original models of mobile barbecues made of metal, which are very convenient to store right in the trunk of a car in case of a sudden trip to nature. They are suitcases into which you can put skewers and folding legs. metal structure.

Each of the modifications has both positive aspects, and disadvantages. By making a metal barbecue with your own hands, you take responsibility for its design and operation. And this is to your advantage.

Having decided to take this important step, you can plan to have a smokehouse or barbecue grill.

Some projects also include a lid in the overall design of the barbecue. By covering the kebab maker, you can ensure the fastest preparation of your dish and be sure that all the most valuable and beneficial properties and the vitamins will be preserved in it.

In order for proper air circulation to occur inside the metal barbecue box, it is better to make slits, called a blower, at the bottom of the sides of the structure. Special holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are made in the bottom so that the oxygen entering these holes burns out, thereby enriching the meat over the fire.

For the legs of barbecues, metal rods or even pipes are sometimes easily used. The main thing is to cut, weld or fasten it to the main structure correctly.

Craftsmen make metal barbecues practically out of thin air.

So, there are options from a barrel, a gas cylinder, and even from the drum of an automatic washing machine.

Drawings and dimensions

Before starting the production process, it is worth deciding on the model, dimensions, and material. The next step will be to create a small but correct project plan, in which you need to display all the nuances and necessary numbers. The sketch should show a schematic representation of the future structure.

Let's look at the main components and tools that will be needed for the job.

Sheet of metal or pieces thereof. The thickness of the material, according to the recommendations of professionals, ranges from 3 to 5-7 mm. Of course, the higher this indicator, the longer the service life of the metal structure itself will be. In this case, it is convenient to manufacture a prefabricated structure, when the bottom can be made denser and the walls thinner.
Metal corners or profile pipes. The first ones are suitable both for arranging the legs of the barbecue and for strengthening the thin-walled sides of the box. Pipes are only suitable for creating two pairs of legs on which the entire structure will stand.

Grinder with metal discs.
Drill for drilling ventilation holes or holes for fastenings.
A welding machine, if you decide to make a stationary grill from one or more sheets of metal.

The main dimensions of a standard stationary metal grill are shown in the diagram. But to make your measurements, you need to understand why these particular numbers were chosen. The width of the box is always based on the length of the skewers minus 8-10 cm. On average, it will be somewhere around 30 cm.

The length depends on the number of skewers that will be simultaneously used in preparing kebabs. The distance from one semi-finished product to another is also taken into account here, because they should not fit tightly to each other. So, the figure taken as a basis is 10 cm per one threaded skewer.

The depth of the metal barbecue box is clearly calculated and has parameters of 20-25 cm. This distance is enough to fry the meat, but not burn it. If the depth is made more than 25 cm, fuel consumption and barbecue cooking time will increase.

There are also original mini-models, all sizes of which will have to be cut down, depending on the reduction of the layout itself.

They usually have short legs and are located close to the ground. But even such designs look beautiful and practical thanks to a systematic and careful approach to manufacturing and assembly.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

It's worth understanding step by step process creating stationary metal barbecues with your own hands.

The first step is marking. On a single sheet of metal we draw the disassembled silhouette of the future structure. You should get a cross.

The second step is to cut out the drawn figure using a grinder. Next you will need to bend all the sides and weld them together. The box is ready.

Then we drill holes in the bottom for air and cut air vents in the walls of the box. Here it is also important to follow a certain system. The holes must be approximately the same distance from each other and from the edges of the box. Approximately - about 60 mm in one row.

Considering that the holes are located in checkerboard pattern, then the distance from the bottom to the top is only 30 mm. This is necessary to ensure that oxygen enters the grill evenly.

The next step is to cut grooves to securely fix the skewers on the grill. These “teeth” are located on the upper side of the long sidewalls of the structure. The manufacture and fastening of the legs is planned to be done last.

The stationary metal grill is ready. You can attach additional handles to it (for ease of moving from place to place), hooks, grilles and even wheels for transportation.

You can make a collapsible iron grill for your dacha yourself.

All work is carried out in four stages.

Marking and cutting out the walls and bottom. All elements must be drawn taking into account the allowance for folded seams.
We make blowers and air ducts in the walls and bottom.
On the allowances left when cutting the elements, holes are made for attaching them to each other.
The legs will also be attached without welding. Here metal will do a corner that is screwed to the frame with fireproof screws or self-tapping screws. It would also be a great idea to use tubes on which you need to make threads, weld bolts to the structure and screw tube legs into them.

A homemade collapsible iron grill can be used for its intended purpose immediately after all work is completed.

After cooking, it can be easily folded and stored in the shed or garage. It won't take up much space and won't get in the way.

A traveling “suitcase” can also be easily made at home. To do this, you need to make a drawing on a metal sheet, where 4 cm is added to each side. Holes are made on the long sides. The bottom and walls are fastened together with door canopies. Bolts are welded to the bottom to secure the legs. We complement the design with a hook and loop so that the grill itself does not fall apart. We weld a handle to the side to make it convenient to carry the metal “suitcase”, even if you are traveling to nature on public transport.

Making an original kebab maker from scrap materials is as easy as shelling pears. The most popular projects today are barbecues made from metal barrel, from a gas cylinder and a washing machine drum.

The barrel design can combine two functions at once: a barbecue grill and a smokehouse.

There are at least three ways to make it. In the first case, the barrel is placed on its side, its upper part is cut out, leaving the ends intact. The cut out lid is attached to the main body of the future barbecue using ordinary door canopies. Legs, for example, metal rods, are welded to the ends of the barrel. At the cut line of the upper part, corners are attached with a welding machine, on which notches are made for fixing the skewers.

The second option for cutting a barrel is to divide it into two parts. Having placed the base of the grill on a flat surface, we make a vertical cut from the top end to the bottom. Percentage parts can be different: from 30/70 to 50/50. But the lower one must be greater than or equal to the upper one. Then the whole process happens identically.

Making the perfect smoker is also easy. But for this you will need two barrels. One will become the base cabinet for the smokehouse, inside which a fire will be built. The second will be cut into two parts horizontally and will become the smoking unit itself. Sawdust must be placed on the bottom of this barrel. The lid must be kept closed throughout the entire process.

Making a metal barbecue from a used gas cylinder is schematically very similar to the same process for a barrel.

The main nuance that you should pay attention to is preparing the used container for use.

The cylinder must be at least 50 liters in volume for the grill to turn out well. The next step is to clean the container from any remaining gas.

To do this you need to do three steps.

release the remaining gas through the valve and turn the cylinder upside down;
moisten the valve with soapy water; if bubbles or a corresponding odor appear, the gas has not yet completely come out, you need to wait;
Rinse the empty container.

In order to carry out the third step as safely as possible, it is recommended to carry out this procedure with an assistant.

First of all, while one is sawing off the faucet with a grinder, the other periodically pours water over the cut area so that sparks do not get inside and react with the remnants of the gaseous substance on the walls of the cylinder.

A hose is inserted into the resulting hole, from which water is supplied under good pressure. While the liquid is flowing inside, the container is periodically shaken to thoroughly wash all the walls. Fill the container full and leave for several days. After the allotted time, the water is drained, but remember that this is already poison. To remove the acrid smell of gas from the cylinder, it is burned inside before starting to make a barbecue from it. Further manipulations look and are performed in the same way as in the case of a metal barrel.

Original barbecue designs are made from old cars. Using the hood and front part of the old one vehicle, you can get an excellent heat-resistant and unusual grill with a lid.

The simplest is considered to be a barbecue made from improvised means.

The fastest and most durable in this category is a fryer made from the drum of an automatic washing machine. The average time required for processing is 10-15 minutes. The main condition is to find the drum. You can use it completely, or you can cut off the unnecessary part if you think it is too high. As for the support, the convenience of this option is that it can be placed directly on the ground, bricks or stones. Or you can make legs specially for it from rebar rods. Both options are worth considering. Choose it individually for yourself.

It is impossible to get by with just assembling the component parts of a metal barbecue. There are a number of features in the operation of this device that need to be adopted and implemented to improve its functional qualities and performance characteristics.

After all the manufacturing work is completed, it is necessary to clean the finished grill from dirt and rust. To remove the latter use grinder or a drill with a special attachment.

The inner walls of the grill do not need to be cleaned of carbon deposits during operation. It is believed that this is what gives kebabs a special aroma and “health”.

It happens in two stages:

degreasing the surface;
keeping the barbecue elements in a solution of caustic soda for about one and a half hours.

This treatment will not only provide a special heat-protective film, but will also protect the metal from corrosion for the entire period of operation of the device.

If in general design are used wooden parts, should be given special attention and their treatment with various antiseptic, moisture-resistant and heat-repellent agents.

The place where you plan to place the barbecue must be cleared in advance of dry grass, branches or other flammable objects, and be sure to place a container with sand nearby, which will be used to extinguish the fire in the event of a fire.

To prevent the acrid smoke from the fire from interfering with cooking and enjoying nature, you can independently build a hood for a metal barbecue. It is made from the same material as the outdoor cooking device. It differs from standard barbecue structures installed indoors in that it looks like a cut-down pipe. The area of the hood dome is usually equal to the area of the grill itself. This allows you to minimize the emission of smoke outside the cooking area. The hood dome is welded to the grill body. It is also important to take into account the mass of the structure so that everything stands stable together.

Beautiful examples

An original stationary metal grill made with forged elements. In this case, the forged parts are a table-stand for a brazier. There is a space under the table for storing firewood or coals, so you don’t have to run far for them. Such a barbecue will not be light, but quite mobile. That is, moving it to a convenient place or storing it in a shed for the winter will not be difficult. Forged products O

A metal grill with a roof allows you to cook over a fire even in bad weather. If you don’t have a canopy or gazebo in your yard, but want meat or vegetables fried over a fire, this option is great solution. In addition, the design is equipped with a stand for installing a cauldron and also convenient place for fuel placement.

Unusual models are also found among stationary barbecues. Two large wheels are very successfully attached to the legs of this design. Imitating a garden wheelbarrow, the device easily moves around your site and stands firmly and steadily where you need it.

This configuration of metal barbecues in the shape of a boot is quite common. It combines a kebab maker, a barbecue maker and even the ability to cook meat on a spit. A convenient grid table allows you to optimally arrange everything necessary tools and the ingredients are on hand.

A folding metal grill when packed resembles a suitcase. This allows you to take it with you wherever and whenever you want. If necessary, you can put skewers and other necessary items inside. The only disadvantage of this design is the height. It is as compact as possible, and therefore you will only have to cook on it while sitting.

Another example of a suitcase barbecue, which is already equipped with legs. These additional spare parts are conveniently folded inside the box, which is closed with a special clasp so that nothing falls apart. The photo also shows other models of folding barbecues, which are also compact in size and easy to use.

A spacious stationary grill made of sheet metal with the addition of forged patterns. It is also equipped with a device for cooking in a cauldron, has a convenient mini side table and space for firewood or dishes under the box itself.

The original way install a hood over the barbecue. Suitable for those who do not want to fix the kebab maker in one place and install a bulky exhaust structure in a gazebo or on the veranda. All the nuances have already been taken into account here. Some manufacturers even offer benches and chairs in the same style.

A fabulous barbecue in the form of a carriage with a roof will not leave even the most skeptical buyer indifferent. However, the price of such a forged model may not be the most pleasant value. One of the features of this design is the presence of a lid on the kebab grill.

The original hearth comes from the front of the car. This allows you not only to surprise your guests and get convenient device for cooking over fire. Thanks to this non-standard approach, you also get rid of an unnecessary vehicle that was just taking up space.

A chic wrought iron grill in the form of a house on wheels, equipped with a roof and a chimney, will become a true decoration of your site. The design is bulky, but it allows you to cook for a large group at once, both on skewers and on a barbecue grid.

You can find a lot of beautiful and practical examples of metal barbecues. It's important to remember everyone important means safety when using them, so that external aesthetics do not turn into trouble. Making metal barbecues for your own use with your own strength and hands is a responsible and creative process that requires concentration, caution and an individual approach.

To learn how to make a metal grill with your own hands, watch the video below.

Scoop - 264 rub.

Poker - 175 rubles.

A good outdoor recreation depends on every little detail. A scoop is necessary when cooking on the coals of a barbecue or fire; it is also useful when cleaning from ash, chips or wood shavings.

A standard forged poker or forged poker is usually a thick strip or metal rod with a curved end, and is a tool for stirring coals or wood in a hearth, stove, fireplace, etc. A convenient forged poker can have different shape. The usual standard shape of a poker is in the form of the letter G.

The standard poker size is usually 400mm - 750mm. It is not advisable to make the poker size smaller than 400 mm, since the heat from the fire will burn your hand. And when the size of the poker is more than 750 mm, it is not very convenient to use when stirring coal or firewood in the grill. A convenient poker for a barbecue should not be very long and massive. A proper stove poker should be longer and lighter. A beautiful fireplace poker can be massive or medium in size, since it performs, along with practical tasks, an aesthetic function.

A poker is used where it is necessary to stir coals or move firewood from the edge closer to the center of the firebox.

Of course, this can be done with improvised means, but a poker is more convenient for this for a number of reasons:

A comfortable handle allows the device to fit better in the hand, which makes the latter less tired.
It is long enough that there is no risk of burns.
With a poker you can not only move logs towards the center of the flame, but also break off charred fragments, and also remove excess logs.

Selection criteria

There are several criteria by which you can choose the right tool:

Material. Bronze and steel lead in this criterion. They are durable enough to ensure a long service life. But metals like aluminum or cast iron cannot boast of a long service life.
Length. The optimal length is considered to be selected according to the height of the owner. As a rule, there are special tables or relationships between height and hand sizes.
Weight. The poker should be heavy enough to move or split wood, but light enough so that your hands don't get tired when using it.
Manufacturing. Products forged by hand are considered good. As a rule, with this manufacturing method, the metal is felt well and there are no kinks or breaks.

Also, when making a poker by hand, you can carefully follow the forging technology, which is why the metal does not come out overheated, which makes it brittle, or underheated, which makes the bends weak and easy to unbend.

Making a scoop with your own hands

Manufacturing stages:

Take a steel rectangle measuring approximately 300x50 mm.
Cut corners at approximately 45 degrees. Where the working part will be, the cut should be somewhat deeper.
Having retreated about 10 mm from the pointed end, drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm, after 25 mm - another one.
At a distance of 150 mm from the end of the plate, a mark is made and the plate is bent at a right angle.
Cut a steel circle about 400 mm long or any other convenient one. An M10 type thread is applied to one end to a depth of 10-15 mm, and two holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled at the other end: one at a distance of 12.5 mm from the edge, the second after another 25 mm.
The metal plate is fixed with rivets on the circle.
The handle is turned hollow, and a thread is applied inside to a depth of 10-15 mm. The handle is then screwed onto the threads on the circle.

Making a scoop

The base for the bucket is made from a steel sheet measuring 22x28 cm.
An indent of 50 and 100 mm is made from the short side, then parallel lines are drawn through the marks made.
On the line closest to the edge, 3 cm from the other edge, two more marks are made. The next two are placed on the edge of the sheet opposite them, and the marks are connected.
An angle is cut along the two intersecting lines.
Steps 1-4 are repeated on the other side.
On an anvil or other sufficiently hard and stable surface, using slats, the rear part of the future bucket is bent.
The protrusions on the sides are bent in the same way.
A square rod is heated in a flame until red hot, then allowed to cool slowly.
One of the ends of the rod is firmly clamped in a vice, and a tube slightly shorter than the rod itself is put on it.
A collar is put on the unclamped end, and several revolutions are made around the axis.
The ends are sharpened to form cones 6-8 cm long on one and 15-20 cm long on the other.
The long cone is bent parallel to the main handle.
The other end is flattened on the anvil.
Holes are drilled in the flattened end and it is bent at the desired angle.
It is connected to the bucket using rivets.

Using a Poker and Scoop

A poker shorter than 40 cm is inconvenient, as there is a risk of burns from the heat of the flame or coals.
A poker longer than 75 cm is inconvenient for stirring firewood or coals.
The poker should be light enough not to tire your hand and fit comfortably in your hand.
The scoop is used to remove ash, wood chips or shavings from the grill.
The handle of the scoop should be at such an angle that it is convenient to use.
After use, the poker and scoop need to be hung on a special mount - it is usually located at the bottom of the grill.
The end of the poker beak is better pointed - this will make it more convenient to chop charred logs.
It is better if the poker has an additional spur - this will create additional convenience when pulling out extra logs or coals from the fire.
If there are too large fragments among the coals or logs in the fire, then it is better to break them with a poker - this way they will smolder evenly, which will get rid of uncooked pieces of meat due to uneven heat.
A poker will also come in handy if the pieces of coal are lying unevenly. This creates a temperature difference, and the meat lying closer to the top of the mound will be cooked more deeply, while the meat further away will not be cooked through.

Check out the video on the topic

Unusual options

The corners of the scoop can be made not straight, but rounded.
A poker or scoop with a twisted handle also looks unusual.
The head of the poker may not be at a strictly right angle, but in the shape of a crescent.
Also, the poker head can be flattened in the plane of the handle, and not perpendicular to it.
The scoop scoop can have a design engraved on it.
The poker can also be made from a solid rod, then not only the handle, but also the head will be curled.

On personal plot the owners usually try to arrange a relaxation area, install a comfortable gazebo and barbecue oven.

For ease of oven care and cooking use the following accessories: grill grate; skewers; poker; scoop; forceps; fan for fanning the fire; stand for cauldron.

To make it convenient to work with the stove, they build table top. Barbecues are designed for versatility grill inserts.

Accessories for caring for a barbecue oven

Barbecue ovens clean after every use, otherwise they will not last long. Items for care and maintaining cleanliness - a dustpan and a poker - are purchased in the store or made with your own hands.

Photo 1. Metal scoop and poker for barbecue. These items are used for cleaning after cooking.

A poker is used to rake out burnt coals and also stir them up while cooking food over a fire. It is selected based on the following criteria:

length;
weight;
material of manufacture;
manufacturing method.

The poker is taken in such a way that it is convenient to work with it, so that it is suitable for height. The accessory should be heavy, but in moderation so that your hands do not get tired. Preferred materials steel and bronze. Connoisseurs choose a poker hand forged .

The accessory can be made independently using welding. To do this, take a metal tetrahedral rod 10 mm thick, bend and weld the poker handle convenient size. Bend the other end and beat it with a sledgehammer, and then clamp the resulting tool in a vice and twist it several times.

The scoop is used to scoop up coals and wood chips when cleaning the stove. You can make it yourself from metal sheet , screwing the handle to it. Scoop should be done quite roomy.

Cooking accessories

To cook on a barbecue, in addition to the device itself, additional accessories are needed, including a grill and skewers.

Lattice

Meat, fish and vegetables in barbecue ovens cooked on the grill. Manufacturers suggest using nickel-plated and cast iron products.

Nickel plated gratings They are inexpensive and perform their function, but during use bend, the coating cracks, crumbles. In damaged areas, the metal corrodes and the grille becomes unusable.

Cast iron grate- a strong and durable accessory. Cast iron does not oxidize. On such gratings there are non-stick coating. They are expensive, but they will last a long time.

Photo 2. The process of cooking fish and meat on a barbecue using a cast iron grate.

Can be used for barbecue cooking grate. Before placing food on it, the wire rack lubricated with oil.

Homemade grilles can be made from stainless wire. When making an accessory, a wire with a diameter of 5 mm cooked with argon. The master chooses the size and shape of the cells, as well as the size of the grid itself, at his own discretion. Stainless steel products are not subject to damage when high temperatures, do not deform and do not oxidize. To prepare dishes, such a grate is greased with oil and cleaned after use.

Skewers

You can cook meat and vegetables in a barbecue by skewering them. The products are on sale, but you can also make them yourself.

To make skewers you will need stainless steel wire 60 mm thick. The wire is cut into pieces length 80 cm, heat on fire and cool. After these procedures, the steel becomes pliable and suitable for giving it the required shape. Next, using a hammer, the wire is given the intended shape. Ten centimeters one edge is left untouched; they are bent into a ring to form the handle of the skewer.

There are craftsmen who make wooden decorative handles. Second end of the skewer sharpen for easily threading pieces of meat.

Sharpening is carried out on sharpening machine or an emery wheel. To give strength products are hardened. To do this, they are heated over a fire and cooled in cold water.

Bags for skewers are made from very dense material, in which it is convenient to store products and take them with you outdoors.

Benefits of homemade accessories

Homemade accessories have a number of advantages over those produced on an assembly line:

Handmade products will cost much less factory ones.
Opportunity on your own determine the size and shape of the future accessory
Items self madehave a unique design.
The soul of the author lives in every product, making it a pleasure to use.

Making your own components

Some products, such as a table, barbecue or tongs, can be made with your own hands.

Building a brick table outdoors

The table top performs workplace functions in the barbecue area. It is where the food is prepared, the final serving of the dish takes place, and the barbecue oven itself is installed.

For the construction of a brick countertop project is being developed. Take into account individual requirements for length, width and height working area, determine the location of the recess for installing the furnace. Usually stored under the countertop gas cylinders, barbecue cleaning products, and other necessary things for organizing outdoor recreation.

For construction prepare tools and materials:

brick;
concrete;
cement mortar;
fittings or metal grating;
plywood;
roulette;
chisels;
nails, screws;
grinder and grinding discs on concrete.

Stages of countertop construction:

The basis of the building is brickwork. The height is determined by the work table in the kitchen and the barbecue table top is made one layer higher brickwork.
Plywood is placed on the resulting building, cut to the shape of the future working area. On the sides they build casting mold. The plywood sides are fastened with screws or nails. The tabletop is made thick 4-5 cm.
On plywood put metal mesh or fittings.
Stir the cement mortar, following the instructions.
Pour the solution onto the countertop.

Important! In dry and warm weather, the product will be ready for use after 6-7 days. In the cold season, concrete hardens longer.

After the solution dries, the tabletop is made smooth using grinding discs. If desired, the product can be faced with marble, artificial stone or tiles.

Brazier insert into a brick barbecue

Installing a barbecue in a brick barbecue makes a stove multifunctional device for cooking dishes on charcoal.

Mangal inserts choose based on the following parameters:

The size of the oven and your needs. Brazier size 90 cm designed for 9 skewers, 70 cm — by 7.
Frame strength. Choose a grill so that the frame does not sag. Materials used: cast iron, heat-resistant steel.

Photo 3. Brazier insert into a brick barbecue. Equipped with wooden handles for easy removal and cleaning.

Barbecues for insertion are equipped with:

grill grates different sizes;
grate;
box for burning coals.

For comfortable cooking on skewers, slots are made in the body of the grill.

Barbecues are equipped handles for easy removal and cleaning. Short ones are being built support legs.

You can make a built-in grill yourself from a metal sheet. For this tools needed:

welding machine or bolts and screwdriver;
jigsaw, grinder;
drill;
tape measure, square.

During work use personal protective equipment.

Do drawing and project, which indicate the dimensions of the future product. The drawing is transferred to a steel sheet and the parts are cut out along the contours with a grinder. Welding machine connect the edges, weld the legs from metal corners. They make a barbecue 15-20 cm high. Attach the grill and make holes for the skewers.