To ensure smooth operation of the air conditioner, it is very important to install it correctly. We want to tell you about the procedure and techniques for installing wall-mounted climate systems with your own hands and talk about the tools necessary for this.
Is it possible to install a wall-mounted split system yourself? You can, but you need to stock up on the necessary tools to understand general rules and carefully study the installation instructions that are attached to the technical documentation of the air conditioner.
Tools and materials for installing a wall split system
It is not advisable to purchase tools for one installation, since you will need not only general construction and plumbing equipment, but also special equipment. It’s good if the farm already has it or it can be borrowed or rented.
Professional set of split system installers
So, an approximate list of what may be needed when installing an air conditioner.
Construction tools:
- perforator;
- drills, augers (Ø 45-65 mm, length at least 0.5 m) and drills (for metal and concrete);
- screwdriver;
- construction level;
- roulette.
Technological tools:
- example - for deburring a copper tube before flaring;
- flaring device copper pipes;
- pipe cutter;
- vacuum gauge - measurements when evacuating the refrigerant route;
- vacuum pump - for evacuating the refrigerant route;
- if the route is long and refrigerant refilling is required, hoses for monitoring and filling, and a filling cylinder are needed.
Locksmith tools:
- screwdrivers: Phillips and slotted;
- hammer;
- hex wrench;
- adjustable wrench;
- torque wrench;
- pliers;
Materials required for installation: screws, dowels, thermal insulation and electrical insulation tape, protective decorative electrical wiring boxes and refrigerant lines.
If work will be carried out at height, safety equipment and experience working at height will be required.
Remember about insurance
Determining the installation location of the indoor unit
The placement of the internal evaporation unit should be such as to create the most comfortable microclimate for people, eliminating directed flows of cold air into the head of a sleeping child or onto the owner’s favorite chair.
Indoor unit placement and air flow direction
In addition, there are rules for placing climate control equipment that must be followed. Before attaching the mounting panel to the wall, make sure that the location is correct.
Basic rules:
- Cannot be overlapped ventilation holes in the walls.
- The height difference between the outdoor and indoor units cannot be more than 5 m.
- It is better to mount the indoor unit on load-bearing wall. Thin interior partition may not support the weight of the structure.
- It is necessary to ensure easy access to the filter.
- It is advisable to place the evaporation unit at a height of at least 2.3 m from the floor level.
- Do not install the wall system too close to the ceiling. For various models this distance is at least 7-25 cm.
- Installation should be carried out next to the socket electric current. If it is necessary to extend the cord, you should not extend the cable, but replace it with a wire of the required length. When installing powerful air conditioners (more than 4.5 kW), the wiring must include a residual current device.
- It is advisable that direct sunlight does not fall on the indoor unit. Do not place it under fluorescent lamps either - this will damage the plastic of the case.
- When installing in a kitchen, make sure that the distance to microwave oven not less than 1 m.
- The units are not installed in laundry rooms or bathrooms.
Determining the location for installing the outdoor unit
The outdoor compressor unit must be mounted on strong, reliable brackets that can support its weight. Don't take metal that is too thin. Outdoor units are often mounted between window openings or under an outside window sill.
When choosing a location for the unit, make sure that in case of repairs it will be accessible to specialists. The installation location should not be chosen near gas pipe where leakage is possible. The unit must be protected from rain and midday sun by a visor and well ventilated. Therefore, you need to maintain the distances recommended by the manufacturer from the block to other surfaces.
If the air conditioner is installed on the ground floor, it makes sense to consider a vandal-proof box for placing the outdoor unit.
Installation stages of a two-block system
For the system to work without problems, all installation steps must be completed correctly.
1. Start installation by marking the mounting panel of the split system indoor unit. You need to attach a mounting strip or mounting panel to the designated conventional rectangle - the place where the indoor unit will fit, align them using a level and mark the drilling locations. After this, you should use a Ø 8 mm drill to drill holes with a depth of at least 32 mm, drive dowels into them, attach the mounting panel to the wall, check again for correct installation with a level and secure the metal base with self-tapping screws and a press washer.
2. Based on the connection diagram, find the location of the freon outlet and mark a place for drilling a channel to the outdoor unit with a slight slope towards the street for unhindered exit of condensate. At the drilling point, use a knife to remove the circle of wallpaper at the site of the future channel. This will create a neat hole when drilling. Secure a garbage bag with masking tape under the future hole. This way there will be much less debris and dust in the room, especially if you don’t have an industrial vacuum cleaner.
The length of the drill is taken depending on the thickness of the walls; the diameter of the drill (~ 45 mm) must correspond to the cross-section for the passage of communications. Drill a hole and insert flexible tubing to protect walls and pipes.
3. Next, take care of the safety belts: the work moves on to the outer wall. It is necessary to secure the brackets to install the outdoor unit. To do this, mark the fasteners and drill holes for bolts at least 100 mm long with a dowel for a Ø 12 mm drill. Attach the brackets to the installation site and secure them with bolts.
After installing the outdoor unit on the brackets, secure it with Ø 8-10 mm bolts with a nut and washer.
4. Measure the length of the freon line. To do this, we apply a tape measure to the internal block and pass it through the formed communication channel to the connection point on the external block, leaving a margin of at least 10 cm. Cut the copper tube of the required length with a pipe cutter, treat it from burrs with a reamer, install a flare nut and roll it at the very edge.
The edges of the tubes up to the connection must be sealed with electrical tape.
5. After unfastening the front cover of the indoor unit of the air conditioner, unscrew the plug to connect the cable connecting the indoor and outdoor units. Having fed the cable through the mounting hole, connect the wires to individual terminals according to the diagram shown next to the terminal box (or in the air conditioner data sheet). Reassemble everything in reverse order.
Attention! Dust and dirt should not get inside: this can cause a short circuit and fire.
6. Use mounting tape to connect the air conditioner drain hose with a Ø 16 mm metal-plastic tube, which will act as drainage. Very carefully so as not to damage copper tubes, connect them to the indoor unit of the air conditioner using an adjustable and torque wrench, screwing the conical nut until it clicks. Before using wrenches, make sure that the nut can be easily tightened by hand. Place rubber tubing insulation over the copper tube.
Wrap the line using vinyl insulation.
Route the combined line through the hole in the wall. Be careful not to bend the tubes too much or too often. A drainage pipe is laid under the connecting route in such a way that there is no stagnation of condensate or reverse flow - the direction is “downwards only”. Install the indoor unit onto the mounting plate on the wall. Make sure that the block is firmly and securely seated on the mount and is positioned strictly horizontally.
Connect the main line and electrical cable to the outdoor unit of the air conditioner in the same way.
7. Using a vacuum pump, fill the freon line within 15 minutes. To do this, connect the service pump with a flexible hose to the vacuum pump using a four-way valve, from which you need to remove the cover.
When the specified vacuum values are reached, turn off the vacuum pump, open the valve 1/4 for 10 s and check the route for leaks using a soap solution at the joints. Disconnect the vacuum pump hose from the system.
If the length of the line exceeds 7 m, you will have to top up the circuit with freon.
Attention! Make sure that all elements are connected securely, otherwise liquid leakage may occur!
8. Insulate all communications on the street with vinyl tape, securing plastic clamps. Using a hex key, open the service valves on the outdoor unit of the air conditioner and run freon into the line. Install the cover of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, securing it with screws. Align the drain pipe with a downward slope and secure it to the bracket using plastic clamps.
Attention! In reversible models, the drain pipe is inserted into the outdoor unit through a hole in the bottom panel, and then connected to the condensate drain line.
Seal the hole in the wall, secure and cover all communications indoors and outdoors with a decorative box and plug in the air conditioner. Check how the remote control works, listen to the noise. If everything is fine, you have installed your air conditioner.
Installing an air conditioner with your own hands Climate control equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, you install an air conditioner yourself. The main condition is to strictly follow the instructions and carry out the work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climate control unit.
Operating principle of air conditioner, split system
To form general idea about the organization of the internal structure, and before installing the air conditioner, we recommend that you consider the principle of operation of the system. The climatic unit consists of 2 equivalent blocks - compressor and evaporation. They are connected to each other with special adapters, pipes and pipes.
The evaporator unit is installed inside the living space, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and several indoor units.
Refrigerant under high pressure sent to the evaporation section. Then the freon expands, gradually boils and vaporizes. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the heat of the air. The climate control system operates with the active formation of water condensate, which settles on a special radiator. At the final stage, the water is removed from the building through a special tube.
During operation, the compressor pumps out freon vapors. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant changes from a liquid state to a vapor state. The dense “fog” is directed into the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (a small fan is used for this purpose) and transition into a liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process goes in cycles.
The efficiency and duration of operation of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the device, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit and the climatic characteristics of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climate control device, the level of electricity consumed increases, which can lead to failure of the device. Even ordinary dust can cause damage. Regular wet cleaning is required for the room.
Couplings and joints require sealing in order to eliminate the likelihood of evaporation of freon or other refrigerant. Installation external unit The air conditioner is installed in such a way that the level is lower than the inside of the unit. The external unit is located in a dark place, away from sun rays.
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: tools - complete list
Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically complex, responsible, and therefore expensive undertaking. In this matter, all aspects are important - experience, practical skills, theoretical basis and availability the necessary tool. The listed factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let's analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.
Taking into account the scope of application, they are divided into several functional groups.
Power tools
Without power tools, installing an air conditioner yourself is simply impossible. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:
- perforator;
- "Bulgarian";
- drill.
Choose a powerful hammer drill so that it can do the job without any problems. through hole in the wall through which the main line is laid between the indoor and outdoor units. In this case, low-power combined electric drills, which only provide a hammer drill function, are not enough. They are not able to drill through brickwork.
Before installing the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.
For concrete wall Additionally, you will need a grinder to remove metal reinforcement, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.
Measuring tool
Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with mandatory horizontal level control. You can use markers, marking pencils, construction or laser level. A number of additional equipment will also be required. Air conditioners with installation cannot be securely and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.
Specialized equipment
Specialized tools are necessary for high-quality and efficient operation of climate control equipment. Copper pipe soldering tools, vacuum cleaner industrial type and a vacuum pump.
- Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. This is done using special solder and gas burner. A pipe cutter is used to cut them. It is better to avoid using a conventional hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which can lead to damage to the climate control unit. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer or rolling. Main turns are formed using a pipe bender.
- An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. Under no circumstances should they get inside the device.
- Vacuum pump. The unit dries the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure is mandatory; without it, the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.
The installation equipment listed is basic. You can't do without additional consumables– pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal scissors, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.
Installing an air conditioner yourself: step-by-step instructions
Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner begins only after purchasing and preparing the necessary equipment, tools and climate control equipment. First of all, attach to external wall outdoor unit, after which internal work is carried out.
At all stages, it is extremely important to follow safety precautions, especially when it comes to high-rise buildings. Installation of an external unit is one of the most important and critical stages.
Mounting the outdoor unit
Installing a window in general, and its outer part, in particular, on the walls of country houses, is not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of multi-apartment buildings, not everything is so simple; the location is selected with special care. When deciding where to install your air conditioner, pay attention to areas with minimal natural light.
There are several basic rules:
- The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window of your apartment neighbors.
- A small tube is used to drain condensate.
- The climate control device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because The equipment requires periodic maintenance.
In 90% of cases, the block is fixed on the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are unspoken rules for installing an air conditioner, mandatory among professionals. If you follow them, reaching the outside of the climate control unit will not be difficult.
- The mounting points of the brackets are checked with a building level, and then holes are prepared in the wall. For reliable fixation, anchor bolts are used.
- To connect the functional blocks, an 80 mm through hole is made. If there is such an opportunity, then it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.
Metal brackets are installed according to the previously prepared markings, screwing in the bolts as securely as possible. Standard installation of the air conditioner is carried out in such a way that between the climate unit and outer wall a distance of 10 cm was maintained. The gaps are sealed at the final stage, after connecting the device.
Installation of the indoor unit
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation indoors, where to start? First of all, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to mount the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above heaters or radiators - all these devices often cause failure of the block processor.
Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for installation of heating, water pipes, electrical wiring.
Fastening metal plate Using standard components for installing air conditioners, they begin only on the condition that the work area is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is 10 cm, from the corner of the walls - at least 5 cm. Two points are connected with a meter and a horizontal line is marked. The indoor unit is installed on a fixed metal plate.
The next stage of installing the air conditioner, or more precisely, its internal unit, is preparing holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, and pipes for discharging liquid condensate. The internal space should be sufficient to freely place all elements in the wall.
Self-installation of the air conditioner is impossible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this purpose, wiring with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. It is mandatory to connect a separate machine for the climate control device. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the panel (the indicator can accurately determine the “phase” and “neutral” wire).
The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are connected to each other by multi-core wiring (it is inserted into a hole prepared in the wall). The installation diagram is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climate control device. At self-installation for air conditioners at home, it is extremely important that the terminals by name match the wires themselves. Otherwise there is a risk of short circuit.
Pipe laying instructions
The standard air conditioner installation kit includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a margin of 1 meter for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender; when used, the metal does not crack and no dents are formed. Proper preparation includes coating of pipes with polyurethane foam hoses, which act as thermal insulation.
Special threaded flanges are placed on the ends of the tube. Next stage installation work– high-quality flaring of copper tubes. This process is carried out extremely carefully in order to eliminate the danger of the formation of grooves and microcracks. The nut should fit into the rolling process without any problems. As for tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.
Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because... Copper pipes have different sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed onto the fittings, and the connection must be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.
At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems comes down to connecting the plastic pipe to the reinforced housing. For reliable fastening, use the heat-shrinkable tube included in the delivery set. It is better to install the drainage pipe at the maximum distance from the base of the wall.
Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing the pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are carefully and extremely accurately aligned. Outside, the outlet and underwater tubes are secured with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them to connect to the outdoor unit.
The holes in the room are blown out polyurethane foam, as an alternative, they are filled with liquid silicone. Installing an air conditioner on a balcony and in a house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soap solution or a bicycle pump. Soap solution wash with a sponge or cloth. If defects are detected, the thread is tightened.
Evacuation of the air exchange system
Correct installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner should know that to remove moisture, dust and small particles from the climate control device, the system is vacuumed. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing of the connections, because It is impossible to completely get rid of the air. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, pumping out the air takes about 1 hour.
Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The reservoir on the balcony is filled with a pressure gauge or adapter connected, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector turns on automatically, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and effective air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with polyurethane foam followed by decoration.
Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because... it's expensive climatic complexes for the adjustment of which specialized equipment is required. Spare parts are included as standard; you don’t have to buy anything additional.
Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what order to carry out the relevant work.
Installing an air conditioner yourself: secrets of professionals
Installation diagram window air conditioners provides the possibility of installation in winter period. You just have to be content with not too much comfortable conditions. No water or snow should get into the line. It is better to install and pump in refrigerant at above-zero temperatures outside (at sub-zero temperatures the seal often fails because it is rubber).
To install air conditioners, it is not necessary to evacuate the system. The nut is not fully screwed onto the copper tube, then the control valve located near the thick tube is slightly opened. Under pressure, the air will be displaced by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.
This method is incorrect, since the quality and sealing of the system cannot be checked. Industrial air conditioners are not installed using this technology.
Below is detailed video instructions that demonstrate the main stages of installing climate control systems with your own hands.
What you need to know about installing a split system
Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem correct installation. Installation determines 90% of the quality and service life of the air conditioner. If errors are made during installation, it is very difficult to correct them later.
Solution: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, there should be no debris, dust, or boxes left in the room. The word “air conditioning” has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which translated from English means “condition of the air.” The air conditioner serves to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.
Today we will talk about installing more modern look air conditioning systems - about the split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a “regular” air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window” that is cut into window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the general air conditioning system of the house, if there is one (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and circulates air throughout the house). And it differs from a “regular” air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.
But let’s agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word “air conditioner” that is more familiar to our ears.
Communications (in the groove)
Drainage (in the groove)
Sewerage
Electrical wiring - to the panel (in the groove)
Hole in the wall, punched at an angle of 1–3°
The first stage of installing a split system: separate electrical wiring is carried out
Any, even low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner must have separate electrical wiring and a separate circuit breaker installed in the electrical panel. Because the old one may not withstand the load and, God forbid, will catch fire. If specialist installers install separate wiring for the air conditioner, the possibility of a fire is reduced to almost zero.
Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed to withstand the loads caused by the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember a case when the owner of an apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out the plugs.
The second stage of installing a split system: installation of the outdoor unit
To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, onto which they then install the external unit.
If you put it on open balcony, then there are no problems: they are attached with bolts, the breeze blows through it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the block to the wall, then you cannot do without durable brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the “outdoor” is mounted with a sliding staircase. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes both equipment in the form of a machine with a fire escape-boom and a climber are required.
If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3–20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).
If your apartment is located on the ground floor, I strongly recommend hanging the external unit higher than 1.8–2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. Or they might steal it. At one of the companies they told us a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. The managers were surprised: “Why don’t you want a complete split system.” “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, under the hanging." Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, you need to make a metal canopy over it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.
In general, installing an external unit is a responsible undertaking. If it is loosely secured, it might fall... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will answer for yourself.
What cannot be done with the external (outdoor) unit?
There are space restrictions for installing an external unit:
The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times per small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to refrigerant leakage). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.
The third stage of installing a split system: installing the indoor unit
Air conditioner control panel
Installers fasten special brackets with screws to the wall (if the block is wall-mounted) or the ceiling (if the block is ceiling-mounted) and install the blocks on them. After this, be sure to check the strength of the fastening (is the structure wobbly? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later the entire structure may simply collapse on your head.
But for the floor block, no special fasteners are required. He, as they say, “will stand on foot.” You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, make sure that the unit does not blow on the curtains or the wall and is located away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, after all communications have been laid, it can no longer be moved from place to place.
So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:
...above a heat source (for example, a radiator). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work on cooling “until it loses its pulse” and will very quickly fail. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the camera, but the entire room. It will “work” and fail by the end of the day. The same thing will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat emanating from the room battery can cause the plastic housing of the unit to become deformed.
...in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly operating (for example, a drill, drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can knock down the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
...directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse than that, get pneumonia.
...where air circulation will be difficult, for example, behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back at the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate has been set and will turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly got tangled in the curtains and turned off before it could bring the room temperature to the set temperature. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
...with a skew - then water (condensation) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be discharged through a drainage pipe into a special tank (see our certificate on drainage).
The fourth stage of installing a split system: gating walls or floors
In order to connect electrical wires and freon tubes between air conditioning units, installers punch gutters in the walls or ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “drill the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “drill”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.
Don't want to dabble? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are hidden under the baseboard). But before doing this, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for the refrigerant) and the “ends” of the wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this using the connecting fittings. And into the pre-punched hole in external wall laid a “waterproofing cup” with a connecting hose. 
After this, they must carry out the so-called vacuumization of communications, and always within 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation must be done with the help special equipment.
Please keep in mind that, as a rule, a separate hidden line is made for the drainage pipe (in the wall or under the floor).
The fifth stage of installing a split system: checking the operation of the system using a special program
At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by setting it to the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then everything is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we recommend that you independently conduct such a check of the system’s operation every year (using the same test program).
The sixth stage of installing a split system: garbage collection
I must warn you: laying the main line and other installation procedures involve dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will arrive with special tools (including a metal detector to examine walls for fittings and hidden communications).
In addition, installers should have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning equipment. With their help, after finishing the work, they must remove all the garbage themselves. If installers try to dodge “dirty” work, strictly demand that “cleaning up the area” is included in the payment for installing an air conditioner. In addition, you can enter into an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of the split system. Then you won’t have to risk your life, leaning waist-deep out of the window, to clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers at your own expense. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it is worth it. By the way, we hasten to announce a pleasant detail: the Meteomarket company, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year term of the service contract. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted operation good job. By the way, in the well-known building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been installed since the time of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.
The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period for the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned right away) breaks down. Of course, you can clean it with a vacuum cleaner if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.
At temperatures below –15°C, the air conditioner may refuse to work “heat”, and then low-temperature equipment (heat pump, compressor heater and even drain tube heater) will be needed. By the way, some models already have these devices included.
How to install a split system yourself
We will talk about self-installation of a split system with a wall-mounted indoor unit.
So, you need to do separate wiring first, even if the air conditioner you are installing is of low power. Plus, it is necessary to install a separate machine in the panel. At this stage, I strongly recommend using the services of professional electricians.
Next, we install the split system ourselves, or rather, we begin the installation of the outdoor unit. To do this, you first need to drill holes for the brackets on the wall of the house. Please note that when placing the external unit on the wall, you should play it safe and buy brackets designed for a greater weight than the unit.
Also, you should remember that when installing an external unit, you need to be especially careful with the refrigerant pipes - you must not allow them to be kinked, and twisting them into a ring whose diameter is less than 10 cm will lead to poor freon pumping.
Now we install the internal unit of the split system - we attach the wall or ceiling brackets ourselves (depending on the type of unit). We follow the installation rules:
It is strictly forbidden to install the indoor unit of a split system above heat sources (for example, above a radiator)
It is not permissible to install the unit close to various items, which can become an obstacle to the air flow, disrupting its recirculation; the fact is that the air conditioner will receive unreliable information about the air temperature in the room and will begin to operate in a mode other than programmed
installing a split system near sources of electromagnetic vibrations can lead to malfunction of the air conditioner itself
Well, and the last thing - I think this is not new, but you should not install the indoor unit in close proximity to your work desk, bed and resting place - this can contribute to hypothermia of the body, which will lead you to a permanent cold.
The final stage - testing installed air conditioner using a test program (since we install the split system ourselves, we will have to check it ourselves).
Okay, now it's clean household tips How to install a split system yourself:
if your home is located on the ground floor, then install the external unit at a height of at least 2 meters, and also try to hide it behind bars, so that lovers of easy money will not be tempted to quickly steal it
Please note that most budget split systems practically do not work “for heat” in temperature conditions below “-15” degrees and then you will have to retrofit your air conditioner with a compressor heater, a heat pump and a drain tube heater.
If you have any questions, please contact us, together we will try to figure it out and understand how to install a split system ourselves and remain alive and unharmed :-)
Processed
By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and activities. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and humidity for the most in a simple way. Agree, in the summer there are many days that require regulation of climatic parameters.
After reading the article we have proposed, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful to both independent home craftsmen and customers of installer services to verify proper performance.
We describe the installation process in detail, listing the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks. The materials required for installation and connection of the units are listed. Photo and video attachments are a valuable addition to the text, making it easier to perceive information.
When studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.
To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold/hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the equipment manufacturer in the instructions.
The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of a split system are above the bed/sofa. Outdoor - usually taken outside and installed on an area near a window or on balcony slabs
There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a block placement point:
- the distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
- from the side to the wall - at least 30 cm;
- to an obstacle that will impede the flow of outgoing air or disperse it - at least 150 cm.
For the external part of the split system, the location is chosen based on load-bearing capacity walls Installation is possible near a window, on slabs enclosing a loggia, or on a wall next to a balcony.
For those who live on the lower floors, the unit is installed above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.
Based on technical requirements to the wall of the ventilation facade, used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the weight of the installation unit
For multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is on the top floor, you will need to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point very close to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.
Determining the distance between blocks
Often the choice of location for equipment is regulated by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on model range and characteristics.
Sometimes companies do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so installation can be carried out arbitrarily.
The minimum distance between the blocks of the Daikin split system is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic - up to 3 m. However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route must be at least 5 m (its excess is rolled up into a ring and hidden behind the block)
It is a little easier to figure out the maximum possible distance between two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. It is also possible to increase the length of the route, but in this case it is necessary to count on additional costs due to the need to refuel with freon.
Preparation for work
The decision to install a split system yourself usually comes after asking the specialists for prices. Incredibly high amounts for completing a job that takes 3 hours are justified by the presence of expensive tools and their wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the fee for the master’s services.
If the prices from split system installers are too high, it is worth installing with my own hands, having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work
If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, the instructions often indicate that preparatory work can be done on your own, but for installing pipelines, connecting to electrical network When carrying out the vacuum process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.
Hardware Installation Tools
Execute self-installation cooling unit is possible, because Most of the tools are in the handyman's suitcase. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy one - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.
Some teams of craftsmen do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.
If you couldn’t find the vacuum pump when installing the air conditioner yourself, alternative option can serve as a powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or an aquarium blower
During installation important aspect is to maintain the horizontal arrangement of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check at the construction level.
If a tool is not available, you can rent it at a hardware store.
You will need to prepare the following equipment in advance:
- Hammer. It is used to make holes in the façade through which a route will be laid, connecting the external and internal blocks.
- Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
- Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
- A device for removing burrs after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, a file and sandpaper.
- Copper pipe roller.
Some people believe that using a reamer does not make sense, especially if the new one does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.
Only after manipulations with the chamfer remover can the edge of the flared tube be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and accordingly, freon leakage is unlikely.
The operation of a device for flaring copper pipes is carried out by deforming the tube according to a selected template, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and circular cross-section are preserved
According to technical rules installation, it is necessary to have vacuum pump- sealing of the air conditioning system is performed with this equipment. After filling the route with refrigerant, the evacuation process is carried out.
Purchasing the necessary materials
You will need quite a lot of components, but all of them are easily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that materials must be of the highest quality and selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at cold.
It is necessary to purchase a wire to supply power and connect the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or equipment installation instructions.
Standard is four-wire power cable with a cross-sectional area of 2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.
You will also need to prepare thick-walled seamless pipes made of soft copper intended for cooling devices. Pipes are selected with smaller and larger diameters. More specific specifications are listed in the user manual.
The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of tubes, their edges must be sealed to protect from dust settling inside the product.
The pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system; their soft copper alloy lends itself well to flaring and ensures proper tightness
Foamed rubber insulation is used to insulate the pipes. They sell it in 2 m lengths. To implement thermal insulation measures, you will need a length equal to the length of the route. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.
As a drainage tube, experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative part - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with an additional 80 cm.
You will also need two L-shaped brackets to secure the unit from the outside. Suitable size parts are determined by its dimensions, and the safety factor for the load-bearing load should exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase in the maximum permissible stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.
It is better to buy these components from a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.
After purchasing a bracket for attaching the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, you cannot make additional holes in it, because this significantly reduces the safety factor of the part
The following fastening parts are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.
The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be installed also matters. To camouflage the laid communication line, you will need a plastic box of standard dimensions 60*80 cm.
Installation procedure for split system
Installing an air conditioning system yourself is a very real task, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you must first read the instructions for the purchased equipment model.
Stage #1 – installation of outdoor and indoor units
The indoor unit must be installed first. Having decided on its location, the area for the mounting card is marked on the wall. After drilling out the gaps, plastic plugs for the dowels are inserted, the card is hung and secured with dowels.
The most careful fastening should be done in the lower part of the plate, because in this area there are latches that hold the block
After installing the cassette, using a building level, the strict horizontal positioning of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, all completed work will need to be redone.
At this stage, preparatory work for laying the routes will take place. First, the lines of its location are calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.
A hole with a diameter of 5 cm is also drilled with a slope, and the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the route. Thus, the condensate formed will better leave the system.
When choosing a back-to-back installation of units, you need to check the hole intended to accommodate the power cable. To do this, you need to check the location of the power ports on the units.
And now it’s time to install the outdoor unit. If we are talking about multi-storey building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.
As in the first case, the block must be strictly horizontal, so a level is also used at the marking stage.
When placing the outdoor unit, it is necessary to take into account the limitation regarding its slope - the maximum permissible slope angle is 45°
When installing fasteners, each existing hole must be filled anchor bolts(standard diameter 10*100 mm), regardless of their quantity. Afterwards, the outdoor unit is installed and also fixed with fasteners.
Stage #2 – laying a communication line
Using an electrical wire and two copper tubes, the outdoor and indoor units are connected. Additionally, through the wall there will be laid drainage system responsible for removing condensate. These elements must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.
First, you should prepare the copper tubes by cutting them to the required length using a pipe cutter and treating the edges with a reamer to remove burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.
It is not recommended to use other tools, such as a file. After its use, metal shavings get inside the tube, which will circulate throughout the system and ultimately lead to failure of the compressor.
To pass copper tubes through a wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect them from dust.
Thermal insulation of the tubes is carried out by placing polyurethane foam hoses on them. You cannot choose foam rubber as a sealant - it has a short service life. Having completed thermal insulation measures, all joining areas of the material are tightly taped with metallized tape.
Now it’s time to lay the drainage and cable. Each wire must be equipped with a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with pliers.
The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.
On both blocks, in an area located slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate intended for connecting copper pipes. Under it there are electrical connectors for the cable.
The drainage tube is connected to a special outlet on the unit indoors and is discharged through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.
According to the rules, its installation is carried out at an angle towards the exit. Fixation with clamps is required every meter of length to eliminate sagging and prevent condensation accumulation.
Stage #3 – connecting system units
Communications carried out through the wall are connected to the corresponding ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop to catch oil, which is contained in small quantities in freon.
Drainage can be diverted in two ways: take it to the sewer or to the street. The first method is technically correct, but due to the complexity of reproduction it is not widely used.
When laying the drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns; sagging is also not allowed - condensation will accumulate in these areas
At the bottom of the internal block of the system there is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the connection with a clamp.
A similar procedure is performed for the outer part of the device, but many people ignore it. If a polymer pipe is used instead of a hose, an appropriate adapter is selected. It is used to connect the output of the unit and the tube.
To connect copper pipes, you first need to lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you read the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more - read.
The tubes must be given the necessary slope without kinks or sharp creases. First of all, they are connected to the unit indoors. To do this, loosen the nuts on the corresponding ports.
When unwinding, a characteristic hissing sound of escaping nitrogen will be heard. It is pumped in at the time of production to eliminate oxidation of parts. After lowering it, you need to remove the plugs and completely unscrew the nut. Next, the rolling procedure is performed.
During the flaring process, the pipe is held with the hole down to prevent metal shavings from entering the system
The edges of the pipes in a 5 cm area are leveled. Then flaring is carried out to ensure the connection between the inlet and outlet of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. Correct installation plays an important role in obtaining the properties of maximum tightness during the movement of freon.
The flared edge of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and secured with a nut. It is prohibited to use any additional devices - sealants, gaskets, etc. The copper tubes used provide the necessary sealing.
When connecting copper tubes, it is necessary to apply a force of 60 kg, only then will the copper crimp the fitting monolithically and the contact will be sealed
Similar actions are performed with all four ports. After connecting, you should last stage installation of an air conditioning system - elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that may have accumulated during the installation process.
Stage #4 - vacuuming the system
During installation work, air enters the air conditioner pipes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is increased load on the compressor and, accordingly, its rapid heating.
Also, water particles negatively affect all parts. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil; its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective when in contact with water. As a result, component wear will accelerate.
To remove air, two methods can be used: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid, which is drained from a unit located outside. When manufacturing an outdoor unit, manufacturers with a slight surplus.
The “spray” method is repeated several times, with the second attempt being made with the top valve. If the length of the route is 2-3 m, the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter length - 2 times
An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, unscrew the plugs on its valves. It is necessary to work with a lower port of larger diameter. Under its cover there is a hexagonal connector. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.
Using a suitable key, turn the valve 90° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and increased pressure is created. By pressing your finger for a second on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.
After complete removal of air, the spool outlet is tightened with a plug, and the valves are fully opened and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the connections, they are coated with soap foam.
It is worth remembering that with independent, insignificant factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without cleaning the edges, or an insufficiently fixed connection, ultimately leads to rapid wear of the cooling system components. Therefore, during the installation process you need to be extremely careful with all details.
If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the installation of split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some subtleties that we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments and ask questions in the block below.
Unlike mobile air coolers, consisting of a single unit, household split systems require additional financial costs for installation. It is quite possible to reduce costs: study detailed guide, how to install a new air conditioner in an apartment and do the installation yourself.
Preparatory stage
Split systems are most often used for air conditioning private houses and apartments, as they are reliable, convenient and compact. The climate control system consists of two blocks - internal and external, connected to each other by two freon tubes, an electric cable and a drainage line.
Warning. When buying a new air conditioner, keep in mind important nuance: all freon is pumped into the outer module, but the inner one is empty. Do not open the valves on the side of the machine until you have connected the piping.
Installation of "splits" is much more more difficult to install floor and window air conditioners. Here, 2 separate blocks must be correctly placed outside and inside the room, laid and hermetically connected by lines. The issue of connecting to the electrical network is solved more simply - a line protected by a circuit breaker is laid to the installed indoor module.
What you need to do before you start installing it yourself:
- Buy additional materials.
- Prepare special tools and devices.
- Determine the location of both units and the route for laying lines with freon.
The location of split system blocks is subject to certain rules. The flow of cooled air from the indoor module should not directly blow people, and the maximum distance from the external unit should exceed 5 m. Most often, the unit is placed on a side partition next to a window and an external wall. Technological distances from walls and ceilings are indicated in the diagram.
Now some tips on where to install the outdoor unit:
Note. Inverter-type air conditioners are quieter than conventional air conditioners, but the fan noise can still be heard at night.
List of tools and materials
The following installation materials are not included in the delivery of the split system; you will need to purchase them yourself:
- metal bracket for suspension of the outdoor module (you can weld it yourself from steel equal-flange angles 35 x 3 mm);
- four-core copper cable type VVG with a cross-section of 1.5 or 2.5 mm² depending on the power of the cooler;
- copper freon pipes with a diameter of 6.35 mm and 9.52 mm of the required length;
- rubber heat-insulating sleeve of the K-Flex type along the length of the pipeline;
- corrugated drainage pipe (metal-plastic Ø16 mm is also suitable);
- winding tape PVA or PVC;
- polyurethane foam – 1 cylinder.
Note. Depending on the conditions for laying interblock mains, a plastic cable duct or a dry building mixture may be needed to seal the furrow.
In addition to a home set of plumbing tools, installing an air conditioner requires the use of special tools and equipment:
- a hammer drill with a long drill or core drill for concrete;
- vacuum pump;
- manifold with pressure gauges and hoses;
- a device for manually flaring copper pipes and scissors that do not form metal shavings.
Often on the Internet you can find instructions on how to install and run a split system without a vacuum pump, where air from the pipelines and evaporative heat exchanger is pushed out by freon pressure. We strongly advise against following such recommendations and strictly following the technology of vacuuming the system before filling. Otherwise, the compressor may fail much earlier than expected.
Advice. There is a way to save on buying or renting a rolling tool and speed up the assembly of freon lines. Ready-made installation kits are available for sale, including factory-flared tubes, insulation and a cable with a drain hose. The price depends on the length of the harness (3, 5 or 7 m).
Air conditioner installation instructions
It is assumed that you have already purchased a split system with the required cooling capacity, you know exactly the dimensions of the devices and have allocated space for them. Installation work is carried out in several stages:
- Marking the route for laying inter-block communications, supplying electricity and sawing a groove in the wall (if necessary).
- Fastening the indoor unit, laying lines through the wall and connecting.
- Installation of the external module, connection of communications.
- Refrigerant charging and startup.
Depending on the conditions of the work, the main harness is laid in two ways: openly in a PVC cable channel or hidden inside the wall. Use the first option in a residential apartment, the second - in the process of renovating the premises.
Reference. Ninety percent of manufacturers of split systems provide for communications output from the left side of the indoor unit. When hanging to the left of the window and concealed laying of pipelines, the groove in the wall will have to be cut out with a turn, as shown in the photo.
The first stage of work is performed as follows:
An experienced master will tell you how to properly make furrows yourself and prepare for installing an air conditioner in his video:
Installation of the indoor unit
Before you begin, remove the device from the box and read the attached technical documentation, where the manufacturer sets its own requirements for installing the product and provides a diagram. Install the air conditioner yourself according to the step-by-step instructions:
Advice. In order not to tear off the winding tape of the harness, it is better to insert a plastic sleeve into the technological hole. Alternatively, make it from a plastic bottle.
After hanging the indoor unit, straighten the wiring harness and place it inside the furrow. At open method gaskets, immediately install the cable channel and hide the pipelines there. How to accurately connect the highways, watch the video:
Installation of the outdoor module
Mounting the unit on the balcony will not cause any particular difficulties. When installing under a window, protect yourself with insurance and invite an assistant to support you while screwing the bracket and the external unit. The work is carried out in the following sequence:
Advice. To avoid crawling out of the window up to your waist when tightening the nuts under the bracket, buy special plastic clamps or make them yourself. The bolt is inserted into the corner, a lock in the form of a washer is put on the thread and does not allow it to fall out. At the end, the module fastening nuts are screwed with a long socket wrench, as is done in the video.
Startup Instructions
At this stage, it is important to remove air and water vapor from the freon circuit by vacuuming. The lines are then filled with refrigerant pumped into the outdoor unit at the factory. The following technology is used to charge a new air conditioner:
After successfully charging the lines and the indoor module, turn on the split system for cooling, then test it in different operating modes. Make sure that condensation is flowing from the drain and not from the wall under the indoor unit. Don’t forget to close the ends of the service ports with standard plugs and install the cover.
Conclusion
The success of the event greatly depends on the quality of installation work. If you are careless when installing an air conditioner, then at best you will lose freon, and with it the money saved on calling the experts will fly into the atmosphere. In the worst case, the compressor will “grab” steam or dirt that has entered the pipeline and will fail within just a year. So take your time and pay close attention to all connections.
Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.
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