When creating a house for your favorite doll in miniature, you need to decide on the main material from which the house will be built. Cardboard is lightweight, but not very durable material. A cardboard house can be easily damaged during transportation or simply getting wet. Plywood is very durable material, but also quite heavy at the same time - this fact should be taken into account. But PVC is a fairly durable and at the same time light in weight material.
For more convenient transportation, the house should be made of two separate parts. Miniature do-it-yourself crafts require some skill and perseverance, and such a toy house can be made without much effort.
Making the base
Basic materials for creating a house:
- Cardboard.
- Plywood.
The layout of the finished house can be found to your liking on the Internet. Then it should be transferred to paper base and make a preliminary fitting of the structure. If everything suits, we transfer the details with a pencil to PVC. When cutting, be careful. The house can have completely different sizes, windows and doors. This is already a matter of imagination and taste of the needlewoman. A child can make such a building school age alone or a child with the help of parents. A preschooler with great pleasure will paint the house for his favorite doll.
You can cover the house acrylic paint. However, as practice shows, when scratching the surface, the paint begins to peel off. For greater durability and beauty, the structure can be paste over with paper. Paper can be anything from corrugated expensive to cheap toilet paper. Trust me, there won't be any difference. The paper must be torn into pieces of arbitrary size and shape and pasted on the facade of the house. It is desirable that the pieces fit into different directions, thereby forming an interesting texture on the walls.
When working, you should give preference to shoe glue or a glue gun, since PVA is not so durable and dries for a long time. The ends should be sealed in such a way that a small inversion is formed inside the building. Get ready - the work will take some time, but the result will then exceed any expectations of both an adult and a child. The roof of the house should also be covered with paper. To save time, it must be pasted over with large strips of paper material. Then it will be covered with artificial tiles, they will not be visible to the eye.
Tools and materials
After the entire structure has acquired an invoice, it can be dyed. For this process, prepare:
- Acrylic paints in different colors.
- A brush.
- Glass with water.
- Paper napkin.
Roof and tiles
No building is imaginable without a tiled roof. . For making tiles you need to prepare an ordinary cardboard. It is necessary to cut out pieces of 1 × 1 cm from it, which will have a rounding on one side. DIY miniature crafts suggest that their creator has time. This work is painstaking and requires perseverance.
Each piece of tile must be painted with paint Brown color or impregnated with stain (do not be surprised - it turns out a fairly realistic base). After all the fragments of the future roof have dried, they can be glued to the base. It is necessary to stick in rows so that each subsequent row slightly overlaps the previous one. Do not glue the tiles evenly, because in real life nothing is perfect. In order to enhance the effect of the realism of the roof, it is necessary to wet it a little with ordinary water and blur the edges of the tiles with a brush. It's not scary if the edges of the roof are a little cracked and soaked.
house painting
The walls of the house for the doll needs to be painted white color, but the roof should be black. These colors are considered the ideal base for drawing and painting, so we will not invent anything new.
In order for the building not to appear too flat due to the all-white walls, they need to be textured with discreet shades. Apply with a thin brush to the surface pink shade and then immediately rub it with a cotton pad. In this case, speed is important, since acrylic paints dry almost instantly. The end result, thanks to the pink color, should be protruding areas of the texture on the walls.
You can transform a house not only with the help of pink. After it dries, you can add dotted strokes brown or greenish color. After applying it, the shade must be washed off with water, and the excess removed with a napkin or cotton pad. Do not abuse it with water, because it can ruin all the work done previously to transform the doll's home.
Window frames should be made of wooden slats or just sticks that were found on the street, dried, and then thoroughly cleaned. It is not necessary to observe special proportions in this work. The rougher and more primitive the wooden frame of the house will look, the better.
Creating small details
A house for a small doll can be made exclusively with windows and a door, or it can be supplemented with a balcony.
small balcony.
In order for the balcony to look realistic enough, it should also be made of wood. The bottom of the balcony and its slats must be fastened together with ordinary wood glue. The bottom of the balcony can be made of a square of plywood or PVC, but ordinary toothpicks can become slats.
You can paint the balcony with the same acrylic paints. And you can go ahead and open wooden details ordinary brown stain. It will dry longer, but the balcony will look like a real one.
building door.
After the roof is ready, you can start creating the door of the house. To do this, it is necessary to cut a rectangle out of cardboard, which will correspond in size to the previously prepared door opening. After the doors are cut out, they must be painted with acrylic paints. The color can be any - it all depends on the imagination of the needlewoman. Near the door, you can lay out improvised pebbles or steps made of paper. To do this, toilet paper is rolled into lumps. different sizes and painted with prepared paint. For greater strength, stones can be opened with PVA glue before painting.
Shutters and frames.
In order to make shutters, you need to take cardboard or PVC and cut out details from it. right size. Each window should have two shutters. Then they are opened for realism with stain or paint. They can also be pasted over with ordinary toothpicks for greater realism.
Dollhouse frames can also be made from a cardboard base. Reiki on the windows should be made from ordinary matches - this way the product will look prettier. The window frame should be glued from the inside of the building, but the shutters are glued to the facade of the house.
House for your favorite doll can be optional decorated with flowers and leaves- it all depends on the preferences of the customer. Near the house you can put homemade bench cardboard or PVC material. Believe me - at least you will have to tinker with the house, but in the end you will be able to please the baby and his doll with a realistic home!
Attention, only TODAY!
Master class on making a house-teremka for a mouse-hole Manyuni
PVC was chosen as the base material. Reasons: lighter than plywood, stronger than cardboard, well cut and glued.
I want to make a house with a blank facade and glazed windows, in this case interior decoration I'm not interested in doing. Therefore, in rear walls holes so that when transporting the house you can put staff and dolls there, and the insides are not decorated in any way.
The design consists of two separate parts, also for ease of transportation.
In the future, it is planned to select such materials so that the decor does not break or scratch during transportation and so that I do not have to carry the house like a "crystal vase". I always think about convenience and I am not ready to make some sacrifices on the altar of beauty.
Front view.
Back view.
Before painting, tests were carried out on a piece of plastic; it turned out that even with sanded PVC, acrylic peels off if it is scratched. Therefore, I decided to paste over the house with textured paper (toilet paper, as you understand, but you can also buy corrugated paper, the difference is only in show-offs). I tore it into small pieces and pasted it in random order so that the texture lay in different directions.
Glue - carpentry "Moment": since the guy introduced me to this glue, I look down on PVA a little. Joiner's is about the same, but it dries many times faster.
Closer invoice:
Pasting the walls of the house took me three evenings Painstaking and dreary work. All ends are also sealed, with a bend inward.
The roof was pasted over with simple office paper, stripes, which saved me a lot of time. There will be tiles on top, so this paper will not be visible.
Now we paint. Paints - Maimeri Acrilico in tubes, they have excellent hiding power, good mixing of colors, a slightly pasty consistency, and most importantly - the price work and I bought basic set colors.
The walls of the house are painted with white acrylic, the roof is black. I already wrote that I dig hard on diorama sites, and they give a black base for all sorts of textures, so I decided not to reinvent the wheel and do as they say.
The white color, even in combination with the texture, turned out to be too flat, so I decided to add shades. I did it completely random)))
The first shade is pinkish-brick, acrylic is diluted to the consistency of thick sour cream, applied a couple of strokes to the surface with a brush and quickly rubbed with a cotton pad (without wasting a second, because acrylic dries instantly!) Also, I don't see the point. As a result, we have colored protruding sections of the texture.
The second shade was selected already in a pair to the first, diluted the liquid-liquid greenish-brown color and washed the surface. Wiped off excess with a cotton pad. Places around the frames, under the roof and near the ground were more soiled. My Quenta house is in the woods, by a swamp, so it's supposed to be green with moisture, overgrown with moss and all that.
Both colors are clearly visible here.
Now glue wooden frames. I got the veneer because of the pull, but in general they buy it in shops for modellers. I bought a 5x5 lime rail there.
Glue - all the same carpentry "Moment", glues perfectly.
The guy offered to cut the rails with a laser, which would save me a lot of effort, but in this case, the more clumsy the better
Here we will have a balcony. We glue the frame and the wooden floor for now.
PART 2
The balcony is covered. It consists of square sections (linden) and toothpicks (bamboo). Holes were drilled in the planks for pins from toothpicks, and all this was assembled with carpentry glue.
The floor of the balcony is covered with veneer.
All wooden parts are opened with cherry wood stain. Alcohol stain, the darkest that was (specially requested not the most smelly, they come on a different basis). I really liked working with her: she perfectly impregnates the material and flows into the cracks.
I'm going to tiling. Pieces of cardboard 1x1.5 cm, rounded on one side. Spent a lot of time carving this stuff with my hands
I thought about how long it would take to paint all this with acrylic, especially the ends of each tile. I was horrified. I tried to paint cardboard with stain - suddenly I got an excellent imitation of pine bark. And random spots of glue resemble traces of resin
I glue the tiles in rows, each next I impregnate with stain.
Everything is glued on. I also spent a lot of time - but not as much as I could))
The pipe is made of Mungyo Sculpt Dry terracotta, grooved wet. Somewhere crooked, somewhere a little cracked - it's all to our advantage. The tile is also glued unevenly. In order to bring out all these nuances more clearly, the roof and chimney will still need to be painted additionally.
The doors are also made of veneer, pasted on a cardboard base (painted black, like the roof). I additionally applied relief with a needle.
Blanks for stones - from lumps of toilet paper. Although I have real stones, but it will be lighter in weight.
PART 3
I make shutters. I cut pieces of cardboard, paint the plane under the shutter black, the plane to the wall - white.
I cut veneer boards, apply relief with a needle.
The shutters are stained and then glued.
I build frames. Pieces of transparent acrylic are glued with a strip of paper along the end, so that everything else sticks to them more reliably. Then again I cut the veneer and glue it.
The slats on the small windows are made of matches, on the balcony window I had to take a thin round stick (torn out of a bamboo napkin) and cut off half to get a flat side.
She took a long time with shutters and windows, only frames with slats made the day.
The windows are glued to the house from the inside.
I paint tiles. The principle is this: I mixed the terracotta color and paint each tile separately in a chaotic manner - about a quarter of total. I added white to make the tone lighter - again I paint a quarter of the entire tile. Kneaded more dark color- I paint the rest.
Due to the fact that some tiles are painted more densely, others are thinner, and four colors, it turns out such an artistic mess.
I finished painting some tiles with approximately the same batch, but less brown, and more white and black - a more gray shade came out.
I also painted the pipe with liquid diluted black - it immediately took on a shabby look.
The chimney hole is painted black.
She painted the ground thicker, several shades of green. Also painted the stones. dark tone- base, lighter on top: gray, brown, green, light gray spots of lichen. Toilet spools are now unrecognizable))
So, we have a beautiful new tile. The house is located in a humid area, so I will do lichen not only on the stones, but also on the roof.
I take an ordinary kitchen washcloth, I breed light gray with green tint paint and randomly poke a washcloth into the tiles. It turns out well.
Please note the absence of a pipe. I planted it on two toothpick pins, two holes in the roof. Roman advised to leave it removable - for ease of transportation))
The tiles are still too new, and the lichen stains could do with some muting. I interfere with the gray-brown-green color and poke with a washcloth, even thicker than before.
The roof is the bomb! Compare with .
I painted the pipe with the same colors as the tiles.
Now the shutters and frames look too new compared to the roof. I will spoil them too. The tree turns gray from the sun and water, so I breed gray paint and dirty everything wooden elements on the protruding parts, I do not touch the recesses.
The same with the balcony, and with the door.
Here you see copper rails, hinges and a handle. Everything was done using standard wirework techniques, slats are highly flattened wire.
Copper needs to be aged, I will deal with this later, so the elements are still hanging on parole.
PART 4
I think moss deserves a separate post.
Diorama makers often find materials for their compositions in the most unexpected places. That's how it happened to me. One video tutorial prompted me to this idea, in which trees were made with a crown of wood shavings (this happens if the floors are cycled, very small).
Here kitchen washcloth, with which I applied the texture to the roof. The green abrasive part is made up of fibers that perfectly imitated moss (as it turned out). I hoped that something would work out for me, but I did not count on such a good result.
Still, it is better to take a green washcloth, because acrylic does not paint over absolutely everything.
I tore off this part, chopped it into small pieces with scissors.
Mixing paint in a jar desired color- this is the same Maimeri acrylic. I added about a teaspoon of Moment wood glue there. Throw in all the pieces and mix well.
The term of work with such a batch, until it begins to set, is up to half an hour for sure. There is no retarder in acrylic, glue plays its role. I had two of these batches. And I interfere, and separate the fibers, and stick - all with these two toothpicks, it is very convenient for me.
Result:
Roof. Live is even better, I'm still a photographer.
Moss keeps very well thanks to a large number high quality adhesive with plasticizer. You can grab your hands, etc.
PART 5
The flower boxes are glued together from PVC, like the frame of the house, and pasted over with toilet paper. Top painted with acrylic: brown paint in a continuous layer, and then black paint with a "dry" brush. It turned out such a multi-colored texture, and thanks to the relief of toilet paper, it generally looks like a tree))
Copper holders are inserted into holes in the wall. They hold tightly and will not fall out at the exposition, but I will take it off for transportation.
I repainted the pipe to match the color of stone, not clay.
Pieces of Icelandic moss are pasted on the roof, pine needles etc.
Lantern: glass - a thin acrylic film (it was a badge from the exhibition), vertical strips - ordinary office paper, bottom and cover - PVC. Everything is assembled with superglue, because otherwise the acrylic will peel off. Inside is a piece of toothpick instead of a candle. Everything is painted with a variety of acrylics: the base is dark brown, the accents are gold and black paints.
The flashlight is also held in the wall by a hole. At first I wanted to hang it on the right end of the house above the window, but since that facade would be practically invisible at the exposition, I changed my mind.
I'm still in no hurry to patinate copper elements: what if I want to do something else?
I'm going to the swamp. A piece of acrylic 3 mm thick (which was) Roman cut me with a laser. It was possible to cut it out with your hands, but there is less risk of ruining a good piece of acrylic.
Under the acrylic is cardboard. I only had green, so I had to paint it black.
The edges of the swamp are covered with toilet paper to keep the whole structure together. Next, painting the edge: a dark brown-green tone as a base, lighter ones are applied with a washcloth. Also, the surface of the swamp was tamped with a washcloth to imitate duckweed.
My first experience of sculpting flowers from Claycraft Deco)) I bought it at. The scale for this work is a little abnormal, the diameter of the water lilies is 1 cm, which is approximately 1/6 of the format. Blue flowers - 4 mm in diameter. Even my fine motor skills are not always enough for the desired result, but I try. That yellow one is blanks-middles for the following flowers, I have not yet figured out which ones.
There are a lot of Deco courses on modeling in Russian. both material and technology are patented, but we are not looking for hard ways))
PART 6
I stuck water lily leaves. They turned out the second time: I wanted to make it so that you could just put groups of leaves on the swamp, and not glue them tightly, this is necessary for ease of transportation. So, the bottom side should be flat. The first version of the leaves was quite thick, but it was warped (I did not throw the leaves away - maybe they will come in handy, they lie on the sides of the swamp). I googled the Deco properties: they still write that it warps when it dries (((I had to come up with a workaround: what if the leaves are made thinner and glued onto a piece of cardboard? No sooner said than done.
This is the limit of paint mixing, at which the clay does not fall apart into pieces when sculpting.
Seen here different stages process: left - cardboard template under the leaves, in the center - a glued island from the inside, at the top right - another one from the front side, at the bottom right - a finished island of leaves, already pasted on cardboard. As you can see, it is quite flat.
I painted the leaves in a dull color, because the water lilies are very monochromatic (and why I sculpted different colors, I don’t know myself?), I glued the water lilies. I added moss along the edges of the swamp, tinted it with different colors.
And this is strawberries in boxes. It took me a lot of time, because the flowers are molded in stages. I successfully adapted the eye of the needle to form the middle of the petals, and generally learned a lot of new things))
The process looks like this:
1. I make flowers. I knead the green paint into the clay, sculpt the leaves.
The details are dry.
2. I cut the wires, with one I bend the loop at the end - this is under the buds and berries, with the other - a circle bent perpendicularly, under the flowers, and I leave part of the wires like this - this is under the leaves.
3. I glue the flowers and leaves on the wires, I stick the buds raw on the wires with a loop. Mixing red paint. I form berries, poke needles with an eye to give texture, put them on wires.
The glue dries. I look forward to complete drying. Freshly molded parts also dry.
4. I tear off the buds and berries from the wires, dip the wires into the glue, stick them back.
The glue dries.
5. Again I knead the green clay. On flowers, berries and buds I form blanks for sepals.
6. While the sepals are drying, on the already dried leaves I cut out the teeth with a dummy knife. I collect leaf blanks in threes, twist the wires.
7. Gently tear off the sepals, cut out the cloves, glue them back.
8. I paint the middle of the leaves in green, trying to make a gradient to the edges. I paint all the stems and legs with acrylic, it fits perfectly on the wire and does not crack when bent. I paint the noses of the berries in light green and the centers of the flowers in yellow.
In short, I fiddled with all this for more than one day)))
Time to plant our strawberries! I glued the leaves to the bottom of the boxes. Instead of earth, I stuffed the same moss on glue into the boxes and stuck flowers-berries. Beautifully arranged everything and waiting for the glue to dry.
Ready!
PART 7
I stuck different leaves and flowers, painted the wire stems with acrylic, glued the leaves.
Stems for reeds - the same wire, but with unremoved insulation (green), extracted from a twisted pair. On top it is painted with acrylic, then a reed peduncle is stuck.
Reed leaves were made like this: a sausage rolls on a flat surface, then it is flattened on the handle of a brush - this is how we get a semicircular shape in cross section, it bends in the right way and is put to dry. The bottom of the sheet is made more embossed, the top is flatter.
You can see blanks of leaves for ivy on the left, on tubes of paint)) After drying, they will not be flat, but semicircular. From the blank you will get two leaves.
The ivy stalk was made of very thin wire, the leaves, after the blanks had dried, were cut with a breadboard model. There are three bunches of different colors: the lightest leaves will be at the ends of the branches, the darker ones at the base.
Flowers planted under the house different varieties and species)) For the leaves, I also kneaded clay of different colors, some were also painted.
Made on the windows and balcony door curtains, since the interior was not made - in general, so that it is not very conspicuous))
Ivy on the house.
The technology is still the same: we paint the branches with acrylic, let it dry, glue each sheet on PVA. It is fastened to the wall with small wire staples, under which holes are pierced in the wall with a needle. On the leaves, I walked a little with a brush to give heterogeneity.
A little more general.
I also decided to make the reeds separate elements, for ease of transportation. The bases are cut out of PVC, glued with toilet paper, painted, then holes are stuffed with an awl, wire stems are glued into them. I also glued individual wire pins to individual leaves.
Inserted with minimal clearances.
The bottom of the "islands" with reeds is decorated with grass from a washcloth, like the shores of the lake.
That's almost everything)) You need to literally finish some little things, add to the location household items to give the house a residential feel.
PART 8
Stools. Made of veneer and square slats (the same ones used for the balcony railing in 2 parts), stained on top, subsequent sanding. I tried to paint them with acrylic, but it did not work out.
Two gray byaki are blanks for pumpkins: toilet paper, thread, glue. Made to save material, although they could be fashioned entirely from Deco.
The pumpkins are ready. I tinted the depressions a little with brown paint for a more lively look.
A bench made of the same materials as the balcony: there were still a lot of these square slats, it was a pity)) Thin crossbars - from loose bamboo rug.
Mushrooms! I did it for several evenings: I stuck a bunch, walked around and around - it seemed a little, stuck more, and so on several times)))
The container for mushrooms was also made of bamboo mat: there were two types of planks. Paper hoops, assembled with glue. The bottom is triple, slats-cardboard-slats, sits in a barrel on glue.
Deco bowl.
They also have mushrooms on the balcony under the roof. She laid a linen rug, made another jug from Deco, bought a mug at the Monpasier bead shop.
Yes, I know that the exhibition is in the spring, and we have mushrooms and pumpkins here - but I strongly associate mice with housekeeping and thriftiness, so the topic of the harvest was revealed.
The composition will also include a wheelbarrow and a bag of sugar from the very same photo shoot - why waste it))
Well, that's all, the work is finished. See photos of Manyuni in the entourage 
But so that it would be easy and fast and even from improvised means. Of course, it turned out not the highest class, but still cute)
Do-it-yourself tile for a dollhouse.
1. I glued the base, rail.
2. I cut a workpiece along the width of the roof
3. According to the template, I cut tiles from cardboard. Row after row glued without sparing PVA glue
4. It turned out not very beautiful, I didn’t like it terribly, and then napkins glued with PVA glue were used. The main thing here is not very liquid glue, cardboard does not like water and “swells” from an excess of liquid. I waited for the first layer of glue to dry (I accelerated it with a hair dryer) and went through the glue again.
5. I filled the empty space on the side with glue for reliability and sealed the holes with napkins.
6. When the roof dried out well, I started painting. I used gray paint.
7. The roof looked like a roof, but I still didn’t really like it, then I took silver sequins (I bought it at a hardware store, a bag of 25 rubles), diluted them with ordinary varnish to liquid porridge and slowly began, as it were, to lay on the roof.
It's a pity the photo does not convey the real shine. Sequins in hardware stores and markets are sold in gold and silver, you can buy colored sequins in craft stores.
How to make shingles for a dollhouse out of leather
Difficulty level: easy
Used tools and materials
- Leather (you can use old bags and even shoes)
- Scissors
- Razor
- thick threads
- thick needle
- Iron with steamer
- Acrylic paints
- tassel
- Cardboard (for making a template)
Tools and materials used Prepare a tile template from cardboard. It should look something like this.
Draw the skin according to the template, cut it out.
Notch the borders of the tiles with a razor. Like this. It is necessary to cut the top layer, but not cut through the skin.
Tighten the threads to give the tile a voluminous semicircular shape. Distribute so that the assembly is even.
Now this form needs to be fixed. To do this, we will use an iron with a steamer.
Important! Do not touch the sole of the iron to the skin. The iron must be kept on a canopy, above the tiles. And fix the skin only with hot steam.
Now the threads can be pulled out. The tile remains only to be painted and glued.
Let's dilute the acrylic paint of the desired color. It must be remembered that acrylic darkens when it dries. Paint the tiles.
As a child, I, like many other girls, loved to play with dolls. I had two of them. A beautiful black-haired girl in the national costume of the peoples of the North and a red-haired simpleton in a short velvet sundress. But playing with them was not fun. Firstly, dolls were strictly forbidden to be taken out into the yard. And secondly, their size was a bit large for me. The object of my dreams was a small, neat rubber baby doll with movable arms and legs. However, they didn’t buy a cheeky toddler for me. Perhaps my mother did not suspect about my dream, or maybe she simply believed that one baby doll was enough. I had him. Plastic holopop with arms and legs glued to the body. In the summer, my girlfriends and I took our babies out into the yard, walked with them, swaddled them in handkerchiefs and discussed how to make our pets comfortable. Those who did not have puppet strollers were forced to make their own. I remember well the cardboard stroller of my baby doll. It was assembled from a box of lump sugar. The lid was put on the base of the box vertically and served as an impromptu cap. And when I was allowed to glue a piece of tulle to it, I was in seventh heaven with happiness and were proud that insects would no longer annoy the baby doll!
How much I dreamed of and how little I needed to feel truly happy!!!
It seems to me that that little girl who dreamed of a rubber baby doll and a stroller for him has not yet grown up. She only pretends to be an adult, and she slowly embodies her childhood dreams. Otherwise, how can I explain my desire to create a dollhouse?
To be honest, I decided to make my own house for a doll for a long time. For several years, the dream of him stood in line for embodiment and waited for me to finally mature. Sometimes I looked at photos of dollhouses on the Internet, and some I even saved for myself for inspiration. But it was scary to take on the job. They were too good! I definitely can't do that. Time passed, the stars lined up in favorable lines, knowledge and skills multiplied, and, finally, the frame of the future house was bought. I made up my mind! I sat down to create, regardless of the complexity of the task and its impracticality (please tell me, well, why do I need a house?)
I completely immersed myself in the amazing process of creativity without asking any questions at all. And the house turned out! Surprisingly cozy, elegant, ideal for a tiny doll (so far, for lack of it, a young unicorn has settled in it). The size of the house is small: 30 cm high (to the very ridge of the roof), 20 cm wide and 10 cm deep.
That's such a handsome man!!!
If you are interested, I will be happy to share all the stages of turning a blank into a dream home!
Ready? Then sit back, we'll get started!
Initially, I bought a so-called shadow box in an online store (something like a deep box or a frame with partitions).
First of all, it was decided to paint the ceilings of the future house with white acrylic paint. Their further finishing was not provided, so two coats of paint seemed to me sufficient.
To complete the colorful work, I primed with white acrylic paint. external walls house.
For finishing internal walls rooms, I decided to use textiles. First decided on colors. The walls of each room will be a different color.
Finishing work was not difficult and did not require large expenditures. All I needed was cardboard, glue and fabrics. It is necessary to measure the dimensions of the walls as accurately as possible, cut blanks of the desired size from cardboard, glue them with a cloth and glue them to the walls.
As floor covering It was decided to lay laminate flooring in every room of the house. What can mimic it? Of course, wooden sticks for ice cream!
First of all, I measured the floor in the room, cut out a template from checkered paper and stuck construction tape on it with the sticky side up. As you know, laminate flooring options can be different. The size of each plank will depend on which method you choose.
Before sawing ice cream sticks, I decided what sizes of planks would suit me. This is easy to check with a template.
Saw a few sticks into boards of different sizes and try to lay them on the template. When the first row of boards is completely laid, you can calculate how many sticks you need in total. In this case, we see that to cover one row, I needed 5 larger boards and 4 smaller boards. In total, 4 rows of planks will fit on the template. In total, I need 20 larger boards and 16 smaller ones.
As a little know-how, I can advise you convenient way cut ice cream sticks. Place a few sticks in a pile and wrap them tightly with masking tape. Better to do it on both sides. Apply on sticks or on tape (as it turns out, of great importance it does not play) markup and start sawing the entire stack at once. So you will need less time and the boards will be more accurate. If necessary, saw cut flaws can be sanded.
After the required number of boards have been sawn, lay them completely on the template. The sticky side of the tape will help hold the boards in place so they won't "run up".
Ice cream sticks, unfortunately, do not always have an even shape. In the photo, the laminate boards were "taken away" to the side. This happened due to the lack of a gap between them. Laying on the template allows us to see and eliminate possible flaws and shortcomings in advance.
A small example.
Everything came up, you can proceed to painting. I wanted the laminate to have a somewhat worn look, so I had to tinker with it thoroughly. I painted each plank separately. I decided that the white floor would look more organic. For coloring, I used white acrylic paint, carefully dried the boards, and then sanded each plank from the ends to give it a worn look. The work is monotonous and requires a lot of time, but if you don’t rush anywhere and do everything with your soul, time is not a hindrance.
When the work with the planks was finished, all I had to do was glue them to the floor. Each planochka was glued separately, the gaps were also carefully monitored (where possible).
If you look closely, you will notice that the way of laying the laminate in each room is different. For the attic, I used thin, flat wooden sticks (usually used for stirring sugar).
The interior side of the house is finished, let's move on to the facade.
I decided to start with the roof. I wanted to tile it. Ice cream sticks come in handy again! Surprisingly comfortable and practical material.
First of all, we need a long straight bar or ruler. She will act as a guide. As well as two clerical clips for attaching it to the roof.
After the plank is fixed, you can lay out the first row of tiles and calculate how many tiles you need. Before making further calculations, I recommend gluing the first row of tiles to the base of the roof. I used titanium glue. It is enough to apply a small amount of glue to the upper (sawn) part of the tile and press it to the base. It takes a little time for the glue to "seize". I advise you not to rush and wait 7-10 minutes before proceeding to laying the second row.
We move the level a little higher, reattach it to the roof with stationery clips and lay the second row of tiles. If a appearance you are satisfied with the installation, measure the width of the step and make pencil marks along the entire roof. They will serve as a kind of markers for further styling.
It seemed to me that the drawing "fish scales" would look more original. In order to comply with the selected pattern, narrower sticks were useful to me. They are used in every second row, starting and ending it.
By counting the number of tiles in two rows, you can determine how much material is needed to cover the entire roof. It remains to cut the sticks of the desired size
and start decorating.
The slope of the roof is decorated with narrow long wooden sticks glued close to each other.
The laying of the tiles is completed, you can proceed to the decoration of the exterior walls of the house. As planned, I wanted to create a coating that imitates brickwork. And again, wonderful sticks for ice cream came in handy !!! A truly indispensable and easy-to-use building material.
First of all, it is necessary to make calculations of the size of the bricks and their number. I sawed several sticks of arbitrary size and laid them out on the side wall of the house. The chosen laying method showed that in addition to whole bricks, I also need their halves. Thus, it became possible to calculate the total number of bricks for finishing one side wall. We multiply the result by two.
Let's start laying bricks on the back wall of the house. To finish it, you will also need whole bricks and their halves. We make all the necessary calculations and start sawing. Of course, it is better to entrust this responsible part to the strong half of humanity. As a matter of fact, that's what I did. Sawing building materials is not a woman's business. Our job is to decorate!
I would like to warn you against the mistake I made by giving in to the excitement of laying tiles. I did not foresee the need for preliminary painting of the material. Unfortunately, the realization of the mistake came to me too late. The issue of painting tiles had to be addressed separately, but I drew conclusions. Noble gray was chosen for the walls of the house. To brickwork looked more voluminous, the bricks were painted in 6 shades of gray, starting from the lightest and ending with a rich gray. White strokes with a dry brush gave them the effect of a slight wear.
After all the materials were thoroughly dried, brickwork appeared on the walls of the house.
This is how beautiful it turned out! I think I managed to create the desired effect!
It's time to correct the mistake. According to the plan, the tiles should be pink (we are creating a house for a girl). To visually "revive" the coating, pink color also available in several shades. Of course, it turned out to be more difficult to paint the finished tiles. I had to be extremely careful, trying as much as possible not to touch neighboring tiles. But it looks like I succeeded!
A few strokes of white paint and elegant tiles are ready!
Hooray!!! Exterior finish The facade of the house is completely finished. You can move on to its interior decoration.