When is the best time to plant onions in spring? When to plant onions in spring outdoors When is the best time to plant onions

Planting onions in late autumn

Onions can be grown not only in summer culture, but also planted before winter. Although this option is less popular, it allows you to get an early harvest of onions.

Advantages and disadvantages of a winter onion

Benefits of winter onion planting.

  1. Before winter, the smallest sevok is planted, the diameter of which is less than 1 cm, it is called oatmeal. Such sevok is not stored in winter and dries up. When planting in the autumn, a double saving is obtained: the sevok is not only preserved, but also yields.
  2. The possibility of obtaining early greenery in the spring.
  3. Getting a turnip harvest 3-4 weeks earlier.
  4. Small onions used for winter planting do not give arrows, while selections (large sets) are always arrowed.
  5. Less damaged by pests than letnik.
  6. In the initial period of growth, it does not require watering, since after winter there is still enough moisture in the soil.
  7. The bulbs are larger and juicier due to the fact that their root system is more powerful.

Have autumn planting bow and disadvantages:

  1. Not all sevok will rise in the spring.
  2. With an error with planting time, the yield decreases.
  3. The yield of the winter road is somewhat lower than the summer one.
  4. Winter onions are stored worse than spring onions.

In general, the technology has many more advantages than disadvantages. After harvesting the winter onion, it is used first of all, then the problem with safety is removed.

What kind of onions are planted before winter

All varieties of yellow and most varieties of red onions can be grown in a winter crop. White onions are less suitable for winter planting. It is better to use varieties zoned for this region. If the variety is not zoned, there may be large attacks, or the onion will not sprout at all.

Varieties that grow very well in winter culture are:

  • Zodiac
  • viking
  • Ellan
  • Sturon
  • Carmen.

Most of them are lettuce varieties unsuitable for winter storage. They are used for canning and processing until the main crop ripens.

The best predecessors

When growing winter onions, crop rotation must be observed in the same way as for summer plantings. For all types of onions, green crops and cabbage plants are the best predecessors. Good predecessors are:

  • tomatoes,
  • gourds (pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers) in the southern regions - watermelons and melons;
  • (oil radish, mustard).

You should not plant onions before winter after any root crops. After bulbous plants, including bulbous flowers, it is impossible to plant a turnip.

Place for autumn planting of onion sets

For planting onions before winter, choose a dry and sunny place. On waterlogged soil, the onion gets wet, and small bulbs are tied in the shade. The culture likes to be under the rays of the sun all daylight hours, then the harvest will be higher. When shading, the leaves grow intensively, and the setting of the bulbs is delayed. In deep shade, the bulb may not start at all.

The bed should be located where the snow melts first in the spring and the water does not stagnate. When water stagnates in the area, the bed is made with a slope of 1 °, this is enough for melt water and precipitation to flow down.

At close proximity ground water make drainage from sand with a thickness of at least 3 cm.

Soil preparation for sowing

The site for planting onions should be with light, well-warmed soil. With close groundwater standing, winter onions are planted in high ridges (30-40 cm). Quickly compacted soils are dug up by 1-1.5 shovels, light and sandy soils are dug shallowly; with deep digging, the sevok can go into deep layers and not rise in the spring.

Culture needs fertile soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6-7.3). Acidic soils are lime. Onions tolerate lime well, so it is applied when preparing the soil for planting. For achievement quick effect fluff or ash is used.

Under winter onions, and under other bulbous crops, fresh manure is not introduced. Semi-rotted manure, also, it is advisable not to use. From such a fertilizer, the onion rots in the winter, and the one that sprouts in the spring will give a large number of powerful juicy greens, but will not tie a turnip.

The ground is prepared 2 weeks before planting. If you plant a sevok immediately after digging, it will go deep and may not rise in the spring. The earth must settle and settle. When digging, organics are added (except for fresh manure) a bucket of 1 m 2, 20 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potash fertilizers. The plant tolerates chlorine well, so potassium chloride can be used. An excellent fertilizer is wood ash (0.5 bucket per 1 m 2). When using it, potash fertilizers are not applied, and if liming is necessary, the dose of lime is reduced. None nitrogen fertilizers in autumn they are not used, since they are washed out by melt water into the lower layers of the soil and are inaccessible to plants in spring.

On heavy, clayey, quickly compacted soils, sand is added to loosen them, 1-2 buckets per m 2, depending on density. On sandy soils, clay is added to retain moisture.

Planting material preparation

For planting winter onions, sets are used, the diameter of which is not more than 1 cm. At home, such seed material is not stored and dries quickly, and when planted it gives good large bulbs. A larger set is not suitable, because when grown in a winter crop in spring, it goes into an arrow and ties small onions. He gives all his strength to the formation of seeds; inside he has a rod that prevents the turnip from tying.

In order to select planting material, in cardboard box make a hole with a diameter of 1 cm and sift the onion. The sowing that passed through the hole can be planted before winter.

2 weeks before planting, the onions are soaked in warm water (temperature 45-50 ° C) for 3-4 hours. Heat treatment kills pest eggs wintering in the bottom. Warming should not be neglected, otherwise you may not get a crop.

Immediately after warming up, seed dressing is done. Additional processing of onions from pests is not carried out, since all the eggs have already died. The main pest of the culture - the onion fly - appears in early summer. By this time, the winter road will get stronger, compacted, and the pest will not be able to get into the bulb.

For pickling, you can use Tiram, Fitosporin M, Maxim preparations, soaking oatmeal in them for 30 minutes. Copper preparations are not used for processing, they help well with downy mildew (peronosporosis), but they do not protect against root rot.

Soaking in a saturated pink solution of potassium permanganate gives a good preventive effect. The seed material is kept in the solution for 45-60 minutes, then dried well.

Planting dates for onions in the fall

Winter onions are usually planted at the same time as winter garlic, in the middle lane is the middle of October. But, if garlic is planted in frozen ground, it will not freeze, and in the spring it will still sprout. But the onion must definitely take root, if it does not have time to give roots, then it will freeze out in winter. Rooting oatmeal takes 14-18 days. In this case, they are guided by the weather, planting onions 2-3 weeks before frost. Onions in the ground can tolerate frosts down to -5-6 ° C, but if the oatmeal is poorly rooted, it freezes. In the spring, such plants have weak pale leaves, with severe damage they quickly die.

It is important to ensure that the onions do not sprout, otherwise, they will die if caught by frost. With a prolonged warm autumn, onions are planted when the temperature drops below 6 ° C and does not rise above 5-7 days. In the pre-winter period, the soil has not yet frozen, and, at the same time, the sowing will have time to take root, but will not germinate.

Planting winter onions

The scheme for planting oatmeal depends on the purpose of the onion. When growing on a turnip, the distance between bulbs is 10 cm, between rows - 20-25 cm.

Before planting, rows are made 5-6 cm deep, on the bottom of which a layer of sand is poured, 1-2 cm thick. This is microdrainage. There should not be a lot of moisture around the bulb in late autumn and early spring, the sand just protects the set from getting wet.

The oatmeal is planted to a depth of 3-4 cm and sprinkled with sand, and the grooves are covered with earth from above. Winter onions should not be planted either too deep or too shallow. With a deep planting in the spring, it will not be able to germinate, with a shallow one - when the soil settles, the onion will be on the surface and freeze in winter.

The earth should be slightly moist. If the autumn is damp, then after drawing the rows, the bed is allowed to ventilate for 30-40 minutes, and then drainage is poured. In dry autumn, the rows are shed with water.

Preparing beds for winter

2 weeks after planting the onion, the beds are mulched with fallen leaves, hay, spruce branches, and peat. Previously, it is not necessary to cover the plantings, otherwise the sevka will be too warm and it will germinate during a dry autumn, and it will get wet if it is wet.

If the winters in the region are cold, but with little snow, then the mulch layer is increased. When covering the beds lightweight material so that it is not blown away by the wind, branches are placed on top. It is impossible to cover a bed covered with fallen leaves with a film. It does not allow air to pass through, condensation always forms under it, and in winter the sevok will either freeze or rot.

If the winter is warm in the region, then the bed can not be mulched. In such situations, always guided by the weather in a particular area. For winter onions, the main thing is that the earth does not freeze before rooting.

Spring onion care

As soon as the snow has melted, the mulch is immediately removed, otherwise the seedlings may rot. Zimnik rises very early, like garlic. As soon as the sun warms, shoots appear. The culture is not afraid of frosts down to -4-5 ° C, but if the nights are cold, the plants are covered with lutarsil or film. In the morning, the covering material is removed.

When plants are damaged by night frost, the tips of their leaves turn white, and the stem and leaves themselves acquire a whitish-yellow hue. In this case, they urgently give top dressing with potassium or calcium nitrate (fertilizers containing nitrogen), they help the onion survive stressful situation and promote the growth of new leaves. Urea cannot be fed at sub-zero night temperatures, since it contains pure nitrogen, and it, without the presence of other elements, reduces the frost resistance of plants.

Onion feeding

In the first half of the growing season, winter onions need nitrogen, therefore, when the threat of frost has passed, they are fertilized with infusion of weeds, humates, or urea. After the formation of 5-6 leaves, potassium-phosphorus top dressing is given (1 tablespoon of each fertilizer per 10 liters of water), or onions are fed with infusion of ash. But if the soil is fertile, top dressing is not carried out.

It is impossible to feed the winter road with manure. The nitrogen contained in the manure is needed by the onion only during the period of feather growth, then it will prevent the formation of bulbs. But since manure decomposes slowly, maximum amount nitrogen enters the soil when the plant sets the bulb. As a result, the onion either continues to grow a feather, or, in rainy weather, rots.

Watering

The winter road is undemanding to watering. After winter, there is a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil, therefore, in the first 20-30 days after germination, watering is not carried out. Then, in hot and dry weather, plants are watered 1-2 times a week, depending on the air temperature. All watering (and liquid top dressing) is carried out strictly under the root. The soil between the rows must be loosened. Onions are very sensitive to a lack of oxygen in the root zone, and if a crust forms on the soil, the bulb suffocates and rots.

If the onion is grown on a turnip, it is undesirable to cut a feather from it. When the leaves are removed, the plants grow new ones to the detriment of the bulb. The turnip, when the leaves are removed too much, turns out to be very small, or it may not start at all.

After 35-50 days, depending on the variety, watering is stopped, and in wet weather, the earth is raked from the turnip so that the bulb breathes. From this time, bulb ripening begins and excessive moisture harms plants.

When the feather lodging, the bow is ready for harvesting. The winter road ripens, depending on the region, in early to mid-July.

Growing failures

Main reasons.

  1. Planting depth set incorrectly. Onions either do not sprout or freeze.
  2. Too late planting sevka. The oatmeal is dying.
  3. Waterlogging of the soil in spring. The bulbs rot.
  4. Use of unsuitable planting material. The sevok dried up before planting and the embryo died.

If all the rules of cultivation are followed, failures are minimized.

Problems in growing winter onions

The winter onion has the same problems as the summer onion, but they appear more acutely.

Firstly, the winter road is more demanding on fertilizers than the summer road. Immediately after germination, he experiences an acute shortage of nitrogen (like winter garlic). Summer onions need nitrogen much less.

Secondly, in onions planted before winter, whitening of the tips of the leaves is often observed. This also happens to the flyer, but less.

The main causes of whitening of the tips of the leaves.

№ signs The reasons Necessary measures Notes
1 The tips turn white and dry out. The plant itself becomes greenish-yellow Onion damaged by frost Top dressing with complex fertilizer containing nitrogen Pure nitrogen (urea, manure) cannot be fed, since the frost resistance of plants is reduced
2 The tips turn white, and the leaves themselves become yellowish. Lack of nitrogen in the first half of the growing season Top dressing with any nitrogen fertilizer Fresh and semi-rotted manure should not be used.
3 In the middle and end of the growing season, the tips of the leaves turn white, and they themselves twist slightly. Potassium deficiency Top dressing with any potash fertilizer You can use fertilizers containing chlorine

Almost every gardener, both beginner and experienced, grows onions in his area. It is understandable, because this vegetable is present in most of the daily meals that we are used to eating. It is rich in useful trace elements, protects during the flu and cold season. In addition, many people love to eat raw onions and cannot see without it. fresh salads. And this right choice. After all, the benefits of onions for human health have been scientifically proven.

Earlier we discussed , and . Today we will take a closer look at how to grow onion sets. This method is most familiar to gardeners and is considered one of the simplest.

To do this, you need to choose suitable variety and buy it. You can also do it yourself. Seeds are sold in stores, you can also get them at home by planting an onion of the desired variety in the ground and waiting for an arrow with an inflorescence to appear.

For the best harvest, experienced gardeners recommend adhering to the recommendations of the lunar calendar. Every year, scientists draw up a calendar based on the phases of the moon. According to it, we can determine favorable and undesirable days for planting a particular plant.

The lunar calendar is not enough to determine the planting date of the sevka. You need to take into account the location and the surrounding climate. Although onions are not particularly demanding on heat, best height it reaches during sunny and warm summers.


Most auspicious days for sowing onion sets in 2020, based on the region of stay, you can choose from this list:

  1. 7, 8, 9, 16, 28 April;
  2. May 4, 5, 14, 31;
  3. 1, 2, 3, 10, 11, 18 June.

Onions for the winter can be planted on the following dates:

  1. September 8, 27, 29;
  2. 6, 8, 26 October;
  3. 3, 22, 28, 30 November.

Growing and caring for onion sets in Siberia

Onions should be planted in Siberia either in spring or autumn. It depends on the variety and type of vegetable. For this area, however, spring planting is most suitable. It is better to start sowing seeds in early May. If you do this in April, when the soil is still not warm enough, the onion will give you only greens, you can forget about large bulbs. If you plant onions in the summer, then the vegetables will not have time to grow to the desired size by autumn.


Before planting, sevok, like any other planting material, must first be prepared. To do this, dilute 2 tablespoons of table salt in 5 liters of water. Sprinkle onions there for the whole day. Then prepare a pink solution of potassium permanganate and soak the sevok there for 2 hours. Immediately after this, you need to start planting in the ground.

Onions love neutral, non-acidic soil. Since autumn, you need to fertilize the beds with compost or mullein. The place should be chosen bright, well ventilated, away from bushes and trees. Onions are planted in dug up and cleaned beds at a distance of about 10 centimeters.


In the first days after planting, the onion needs constant moisture and loosening. The next two weeks should be watered 2-3 times in 7 days, and then reduce the amount to 1 time per week. Urea and wood ash are well suited for top dressing.

If you're aiming to harvest large onions, it's best to avoid organic fertilization.

When the bow is ready to be harvested, you will understand for yourself. Greens cease to form new feathers, wither and fall off. After collecting the onion, you need to lie down on the bright, windy side all day, until evening.

Planting and fertilizing onions in open ground

After disembarking, after about 2 weeks, the beds with onions need to be fed. At this time, green feathers grow slowly and yellowness is present in them. To help the bulbs begin to grow properly, you need to apply fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. In a bucket of water, dilute 40 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of potassium chloride and 50 g of superphosphate. Water the beds with a solution at the rate of 1.5 liters per square meter.


After 2-3 weeks, the beds again need to be fed. In this case, you can use ordinary compost or mullein. A month later, shortly before digging the onion, apply the last portion of fertilizer. Potassium and phosphorus will help you here. You can independently make top dressing as follows: dissolve 300 g of ash in a bucket of hot water and leave for 2 days. Water with the calculation of 2 liters per 1 square meter.


In addition, in specialized stores you can find special mixtures of fertilizers that are enough to dissolve in water.

When to plant sevok in the Leningrad region and in the Moscow region

in the Moscow region and Leningrad region it is necessary to plant sevok in early May, when the earth is warm enough. Although the onion is not unnecessarily thermophilic, but in warm soil it bears fruit much faster and better.


Prepared seeds should be planted in fresh beds, cleared of weeds and stones. They should be located on a well-lit and ventilated side. Excessive shade can cause the onion to rot.


Early planting of onions can deprive you of strong bulbs, and only lead to dense greenery. Planting onions at the end of June too incorrect choice. The onion will not have time to ripen properly and reach the size required for storage.

Proper planting of onions and caring for them in the Urals

It is necessary to sow seedlings in open ground around mid-May. Onions are planted in beds at a distance of 10 centimeters, pressing them to the top into the ground. One of the most important components proper care behind the bow is weeding. Weed removal should be done every one and a half to two weeks. Weedy grass provides the soil with excessive moisture, which can lead to rotting of the onion.


In the first 2 weeks after planting the onion in open ground, the soil needs to be watered every 7 days. The water should be cool, about 15 degrees above zero. Water consumption is approximately 13 liters per 1 square meter. After the appearance of green onions, watering should be reduced to 1 time in 2 weeks.


After irrigating the beds, the soil around the bulbs needs to be loosened to ensure proper access of water and oxygen to the root system. The appearance of post-watering crust has a bad effect on the quality of the crop.


2 weeks after planting, you need to make the first top dressing. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are perfect for this. 14 days after this, it is the turn of the second top dressing. Here, phosphorus and potassium substances are in priority.

3 weeks before the proposed digging, onion watering should be stopped.

What should be the soil for growing onions

As we already know, the best place for sowing sevka is a bright, preferably sunny area, without the presence of bushes and trees nearby. The soil should be non-acidic and not prone to large weed growth.


It’s great if, before sowing onions, zucchini, cabbage, legumes, potatoes or pumpkins grew in this soil. As a rule, these vegetables require organic fertilizers, which gives these predecessors an advantage.

Onions are happy to be next to cabbage, carrots and beets. Unless, of course, they grow very close, covering the tops sunlight. The distance between the beds should be at least 50 centimeters.


Onions prefer loamy and sandy soil. Too heavy land will not provide a good harvest.


Now you know how to properly grow onions so that the neighbors look with envy at your harvest. But perhaps the most important rule for growing any kind of vegetable is good mood. After all, fruits and vegetables grown with love are the tastiest in the world. So stock up on the right attitude, aimed at getting a rich harvest!

Onions have long ceased to be exotic in the summer cottage, rather, on the contrary, it is strange when it is not there. In spite of wide use and popularity, not all gardeners know how to grow it. This is a rather capricious culture and any deviation in agricultural technology leads to a deterioration in the quality of the crop. An excessively “evil” onion grows with a lack of moisture at the beginning of the growing season, a small head is formed during a thickened planting and at the wrong depth, non-compliance with crop rotation and violation of the rules of care leads to the development of diseases and affects keeping quality.

Often summer residents get such a crop, half of which is not stored until the middle of winter, and the other half is suitable only for borscht because of the pronounced sharpness. What features need to be considered in order to properly plant onions and avoid many problems?

Onions love lighted areas and do not tolerate lowlands with heavy waterlogged soils. Good predecessors for him will be cabbage, cucumber and nightshade. These crops do not have common pests and diseases with onions, and since their cultivation is accompanied by the introduction of high doses of organic and mineral fertilizers, then the soil is still quite nutritious.

Also, onions can go after zucchini and peas, but it is undesirable to occupy areas that were previously under carrots, since fresh organic matter is not brought under this crop, and onions require fertile soil. Also, the site after it is released late, you may not have time to prepare it for a new landing. You can plant carrots after onions, good joint landings and the proximity of the beds (they scare pests away from each other).

It is possible to return the plant to its original place no earlier than after 3 years, and with a high incidence of diseases - only after 5 years. Planting an onion on a head in spring should be carried out in loose and moderately moist soil, therefore, in the fall, the site should be dug up on a shovel bayonet, and in the spring it should only be harrowed with a rake and leveled.

If necessary, compost or humus and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are introduced in the fall. To neutralize the soil solution on acidic soils, chalk or lime is added. Plots where fresh manure was introduced are recommended to be occupied with onion only for 2 years.

In poorly warmed areas with heavy clay soil, wide ridges are cut in autumn, on which planting will be carried out.

When is an onion planted?

The exact dates of disembarkation are determined by the prevailing weather conditions and soil temperature. Onion is a cold-resistant crop, but when planted in cold soil, it will shoot, which will reduce the quality of the crop.

On the other hand, the procedure must be completed when there is still a supply of moisture in the soil, the need for which the onions have at the beginning of growth is great. And the relatively long growing season of this crop does not forgive delay.

Planting material preparation

Planting material (sevok), stored in a warm way(18-20ºC at 60-70% humidity), does not require any procedures to activate growth processes. A week before planting, it is sorted out, discarding dried, sprouted and rotting bulbs, and sorted, dividing into 2-3 fractions.

The smallest fraction (diameter less than 1.5 cm) is recommended to be sown in more early dates, since it doesn't give arrows. Sevok from the middle fraction (diameter 1.5-2 cm) gives the most good harvest, but on condition that the landing is made in sufficiently warm soil. Large onions (more than 3 cm in diameter) can be used to grow onions for feathers or to get turnips for canning, as they often give arrows, which affects keeping quality.

If the planting material was stored at low temperatures(in the attic, in the cellar, etc.), then 2 - 3 weeks before planting, it must be transferred to a warm room and dried (you can simply put a container with sevka near the battery, but not very close).

The calibrated seed is heated at a temperature of 40ºC for 8 hours to destroy the internal infection (you can put it on a battery in a cardboard box). Before planting, the bulbs are soaked in hot water for 12-24 hours. Instead of water, you can use a weakly concentrated solution of complex fertilizers.

Immediately before planting, the planting material is treated for 15 minutes with a pale solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide (for example, copper sulfate). After processing, rinsing in clean warm water is required.

Some gardeners cut the “tails” of the seedlings to speed up germination. However, this procedure damages the protective barrier and opens the door for infection, so it is better to do with soaking, which will already halve the time before germination.

Planting technique for onion sets

Shallow grooves are cut on the leveled bed. The distance between the grooves should be 15-20 cm, so that it is convenient to take care of the plants. If the soil is not moist enough, the grooves are shed with water. Onions respond well to the introduction of wood ash and sand into the furrows.

In the prepared bed, you can plant the processed sevok. The bulbs are buried with the bottom down to the “shoulders”, and then sprinkled with earth, so that a layer of 2 cm is obtained on top. Surface plantings will give earlier shoots, but it will not work to get a good turnip with this technique.

Sevoc in a row is placed at a distance of 6-10 cm (depending on the variety). Some summer residents advise planting it in a compact “snake” in order to obtain not only bulbs, but also greens from one bed. As the plants grow in a row, thin out, removing the bulbs along with the feather. This method is convenient on a small bed, when there is confidence that it will be thinned out in a timely manner.

How to grow a head from seeds in one season?

Growing onions on a turnip in the Non-Black Earth Region, on Far East and in Siberia it occurs in a two-year culture, i.e., first, sevok is obtained from seeds, from which a turnip is grown the next year. In the southern regions and Central Russia, some sweet and peninsular varieties and hybrids can form a marketable bulb from seeds in one season. To get a turnip immediately from seeds, you need to carry out early spring and winter sowing or use seedlings.

If they allow weather, then onion can be sown at the end of April immediately in open ground. To speed up the germination of seeds, they must be placed in warm water or a solution of growth stimulants for 1-2 days.

Sowing is best done on high ridges. Seeds are sown to a depth of about 2 cm, tape method with a distance between the tapes of 20 cm. Thus, if the ridge is 1 meter wide, then 4-5 rows can fit on it. Seedlings need regular watering and thinning twice. The first time is thinned out a few days after mass shoots, leaving an interval of 2 cm between plants, and the second time - in the phase of 2-3 true leaves with an interval of 6 cm.

In winter, seeds are sown from late October to mid-November. Podzimny sowing is different increased rate sowing (3 times) and mulching crops with peat. Seedlings appear earlier, so the bulb ripens earlier.

Through seedlings, mainly sweet lettuce varieties are grown. Sowing seedlings in a heated greenhouse is carried out in early March. It is possible to grow seedlings at home, but only with sufficient lighting. When sown in nutrient soil, seedlings require only regular watering. Plants are planted in open ground at the age of 55 days (they should already have 3-4 true leaves). To do this, choose a cloudy day or evening. Planted with a row spacing of 25 cm, between plants in a row they stand 6-8 cm.

The best varieties and hybrids

Onions are very sensitive to the length of daylight hours, so for planting, you need to choose only zoned varieties or achievements of local selection. Varieties bred in the northern regions, in the south with a short daylight hours, may not form a bulb at all. When creating your own collection of favorites in the garden, include representatives from different groups in it. Sharp varieties are distinguished by high keeping quality and productivity, peninsular and sweet varieties have good taste qualities.

A guaranteed harvest can be obtained by planting old local varieties. AT different regions Strigunovsky, Rostov local, Bessonovsky, Spassky, Mstersky, Pogarsky, Timiryazevsky received national fame. They are regionalized quite widely and are known to gardeners throughout Central Russia and beyond.

Of the widely distributed sharp varieties and hybrids it is worth noting Golden Semko, Centurion and Stuttgarter Risen.

Golden Semko - early ripe with a large rounded golden onion, which is formed in one season immediately from seeds; gives a high yield; cultivated in all regions of Russia.

Centurion - a little arrowing hybrid with a medium-early ripening period; bulbs are golden, medium-sized, slightly elongated; disease resistant.

Stuttgarter Riesen - mid-season with large, slightly flattened bulbs.

Peninsular varieties for Central Russia: Zolotnichok, Odintsovets, Sputnik, Myachkovsky 300, Red Baron.

golden - medium early with golden rounded bulbs.

Myachkovsky 300 - early high-yielding with flattened yellow bulbs of medium size; suitable for growing turnips directly from seeds.

Red Baron - early ripening; bulbs are dark purple, rounded, weighing up to 150 g.

Good varieties and hybrids of sweet onions: Exhibition, Ritmo, Comet.

Exhibition - medium maturity with large oval bulbs yellow color; suitable for growing in an annual crop from seeds; has a high yield, but low keeping quality.

Comet - late deadline ripening with white large bulbs; resistant to disease and suitable for long-term storage.

It can be difficult for beginner gardeners to decide which onion to plant on the head. After all, not only taste and productivity are important here, but also keeping quality and disease resistance. Moreover, the same variety in different soil and climatic conditions can show different results. Therefore, select up to 5 different varieties in order to highlight your favorites in 2-3 seasons.

The subtleties of plant care

Young seedlings need regular (1-2 times a week) and moderate watering, followed by loosening of row spacing to restore aeration of the roots. With the beginning of the formation of the head, the frequency of irrigation is reduced, and a month before harvesting they are not carried out at all for the successful ripening of the bulb. However, in case of severe drought, it is recommended to carry out sprinkling with a small amount of water.

Weeds pose a serious threat to seedlings, so weeding must be timely. Hilling of plants and close loosening is not allowed. Weeds in the row are removed manually so as not to damage the bulb with a weak root system.

Many summer residents are advised to carry out one or even two top dressing per season. However, there is no need for them on fertile soils seasoned with organic matter since autumn. On poor soils, the first feeding with liquid organic fertilizers (horse dung, bird droppings, mullein) is carried out about a month after planting. The second top dressing is carried out during the period of turnip formation, using phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To prevent root burns, top dressing is carried out after moistening the soil and before watering.

Pre-winter is the time of cold nights, fallen leaves and the first frost. And it's time to plant onions. When to plant winter onions and how - agronomist's advice: timing, schemes and sowing rates.

To the owner and farms to help, to the summer resident and the farmer, note: soil preparation, fertilization, mistakes and rules.

Why winter onions and why in autumn?

Onion sets are small onions that grow in the first year after sowing the seeds. In fact, this is the seed of the first reproduction.

Despite the diameter of the order of 1 cm, the set has a huge potential: early shoots, all the qualities of the parent material without loss.

Winter onion sets for planting, or how to grow a turnip from oatmeal: the secrets of agronomists.

Planting onion sets in the fall is a guarantee of an early harvest, a powerful feather and a large turnip size. And yet - the sevok is free from diseases, practically not damaged by pests.

Yields of onion sets: 30-45 kg/m2 on irrigated areas, on rainfed land (without artificial irrigation) up to 20 kg/m2.

Winter onions are planted from sets in the fall for many reasons:

  • collection after feather lodging 1.5 earlier than planted in spring;
  • plantings are not damaged by pests at the height of summer;
  • early bunched greens for sale and onions with cut feathers - in late April-May or early June, bulbs are suitable for sampling in late May-June, early July, adjusted for the region;
  • onions from sets do not shoot;
  • productivity at the level of spring sowing.

Important: when planting a small set, shooters are not formed, planting a large one will end with a shooter.

About timing: when to plant winter onions

Before persistent frosts, the onion should take root, but if you don’t have time, forgive me - the first frost will destroy the seedlings. When to plant winter onions - planting dates differ in different regions. The following factors will be decisive:

Planting dates for winter onions - guidelines:

  1. Landing time is from mid-September to mid-October, depending on the region.
  2. Temperature - up to stable +5 °C.
  3. Before the onset of a stable freeze - up to 20-30 days.

So, in the Moscow region, winter onions are planted until November 15, in warm years risk-loving gardeners - up to the 20th. At t below -15 ° C, and even more so in winters with little snow, it is desirable to cover the landings.
In the Urals, they are planted earlier for 2-3 weeks: in mid-September to early October.

Important! Early planting reduces winter hardiness, late planting promotes shooting.

The deadline in the people is considered to be Intercession - October 14th. Agronomists also advise planting inclusive in the second decade of the month, until October 20, depending on the year.

When to plant winter onions according to the lunar calendar

For those who respect the lunar calendar: planting dates for winter onions lunar calendar autumn 2018 - September 27-28. For those who did not have time, landing on the 6th or 7th, as well as the 25th of the calendar, will be successful.

Those who like to be in time at the last moment will have to focus on November 2, 3, 22, 30 - and take risks: these deadlines are deadlines.

Planting material preparation

Planting material can be soaked in a weak solution of manganese or any fungicide like Fundazol can be used. If the material is healthy during visual inspection, the event can be omitted when planting in a summer cottage.

Preparing onion sets for planting before winter: calibration is a delicate matter.

In industrial production, the sowing is heated at t 40 ° C (24 hours) to prevent powdery mildew, as well as to prevent inhibition of the growth of rudimentary flower arrows.

Summer residents sort by hand, farms use winnowing machines - SLS-7A, sorting tables SPL-6.

Planting material is popularly divided into the following categories:

  • oatmeal - diameter less than 1 cm;
  • sevok - diameter 1-3 cm;
  • sample - more than 3 cm.

Sampling is more often used for forcing a pen, because the bow shoots. Smaller fractions are suitable for autumn planting for turnips.

On industrial areas, the calibration is different:

Bulb diameter for small nested varieties:

  • I class - 0.7-1.4 cm;
  • II class - 1.5-2.2 cm;
  • III class - up to 3 cm.

For multi-celled varieties- respectively 1.5-2.2 cm, 2.3-3 cm, 3.1-3.5 cm.

Important! At an earlier date, sevok of a smaller fraction is planted. A large fraction of onion sets can be planted at a later date.

Preplant soil preparation

Or vice versa - failure. In short, consider the following points:

  • a dry area on which snow melts first - the culture does not like stagnant water;
  • light soils with neutral pH;
  • in regions with high level snow well suited raised ridges: no risk of flooding, good warming;
  • predecessors - cereals, mustard, alfalfa, peas, beans, cabbage;
  • poor predecessors, given common pests, including the nematode - potatoes, beans, celery, alfalfa;
  • unlike garlic, onions love fertile soils: its root system is superficial, located 1-2 to 25 cm from the soil surface.

On the large areas after harvesting the predecessors, disking is carried out, weeds are harvested, fertilizer is applied for plowing, and cultivated. In summer cottages, fertilizers are applied for digging - at least 2 weeks before planting.

Soil preparation: it's important

Sodium nitrate is applied for plowing or digging, calcium (ammonium) nitrate, phosphorus (100-150 kg / ha), potassium 200-250 kg / per two weeks before planting are applied as the main fertilizer.

Here is such a oatmeal: and onions on a feather, and a turnip.

As phosphate fertilizers, superphosphate, ammonium phosphate are used, potash fertilizers are more often represented by potassium sulfate.

The share of nitrogen fertilizing in autumn should not exceed 20% of total, the remaining 80% are paid in the spring.

Total, under the main pre-planting treatment 75% potash and 25% phosphate fertilizers are applied.

These are the application rates for industrial plantings, a simple recipe is useful for giving: up to 15 g / m2 of viburnum salt, 20-25 g / m2 of superphosphate. On poor soils, ash is applied at the rate of 10-15 g/m2. The introduction of humus, manure is appropriate for predecessors.

Fertilizer before planting

Before winter planting, 1/3 of nitrogen is applied (up to 60 kg/ha), then in two doses of 60 kg/ha: in spring, at the beginning of the growing season, with a period of two weeks.

In the photo of planting winter onions.

For summer residents: the same 15-20 g / m2 of superphosphate, 10-15 g of viburnum salt. The second dressing is carried out when the fourth leaf is formed.

And no organics. Maximum - for previous crops or mulching with humus. Why? Nitrogen does not contribute to a good wintering. On the contrary, it delays the dormant period. But the main thing is that it gives an active growth of the aerial part to the detriment of the turnip. This means lush greenery on a feather and miniature turnips.

Distance and landing pattern

The generally accepted rule - planting at 1/2 diameter also works for winter sowing. The depth of the cut depends on the caliber.

Scheme of planting winter onions and sowing rates: a note for the gardener and farmer.

The scheme for planting onions in a summer cottage: between rows up to 40 cm, between rows - an average of 15 cm, or from 10 to 25 cm.

Distance in a row 4-10 cm depending on the size. The distance for class I is 3-4 cm, for class II - 5-6 cm.

The smallest specimens are ruined at a distance of 3-4 cm, with a diameter closer to 10 cm - at a distance of 7-10 cm from each other.

How deep should winter onions be planted? The depth of sowing depends on the size and region: in cold areas, sowing is deepened to a depth of 10 cm, in regions with a temperate climate - by 5-7 cm.

Important! Before planting, the neck of the bulbs is not cut off to prevent rotting.

To a depth of less than 3-4 cm, the sevok is not buried. Firstly, it will freeze, and secondly, it will stick out in the spring: and this irregular shape, lack of nutrition and watering.

Planting pattern and seeding rates in large areas

Seeding rates for onion sets are 450-460 t/ha for the 1st order, 750-1000 kg/ha for the 2nd. The maximum consumption per 1 ha is 1500 kg, and depends on the size. When using sampling, the sowing rate is increased to 2000 kg/ha.

For gardeners, the consumption of onion sets per 1 weave is interesting. This is 550-800 g / 10 m2 (at a density of 456-650 plants per 10 m2 for class 1 sets, 800-1200 g / 10m2 for the second group.

And if it’s simpler, then a little more than 1 kg will be needed for 5 m2 of beds. For a hundred square meters - twice as much - about 2-2.5 kg, or about 400-450 bulbs.

On industrial plantings for sowing with seeders of the type SLN-8A, SLS-12, a wide-row method is used - 45 cm between rows, belt - 50 + 20 (55 + 15, 60 + 10), two-row belt (60 + 40 + 40).

Planting onion sets before winter: how a turnip grew from oatmeal

The process of planting in the fall at their summer cottage is a simple matter, and proceeds as follows.

Planting onion sets before winter: do not mount an onion - a field.

1. The cut furrows are sprinkled with a thin layer of sand (microdrainage, fights moisture, does not allow decay).
2. At a distance of 6-10 cm, sevok is immersed in a horizontal position.
3. Fall asleep with garden soil, do not water.

As for top dressing, after planting, urea is introduced, a mineral complex without dominant nitrogen.

On industrial areas, seeders SLN-8A, SLN-8B, SLS-12 are used for planting.

Landings are mulched only when stable frosts occur.

Industrial plantings are covered with agrofibre with a density of 17 g/m2 or 30 g/m2. This increases production costs, but eliminates the risk of losses. It is important not to miscalculate, and not to cover ahead of time - losses are inevitable.

Summer residents can use humus mixed with sand on poor soils, straw, spruce branches, and litter.

Do not use peat, sawdust, shavings as moisture-intensive materials that contribute to warming and freezing after thaws, making it difficult to warm the soil in spring. They do not use organic matter either: bulbous plants are not responsive to nitrogen fertilizers.

Spring onion care and cleaning

Winter onion care is different from crop care spring planting.

Winter onion care: everything is simple, and not easy, like the four-row planting method.

  1. In the spring, the mulch layer is completely removed so that it does not interfere with germination, warming up the soil, and does not rot.
  2. For growing turnips, crops are thinned out - however, thinning is also necessary when growing on a feather.
  3. Loosen the aisles. During loosening, cultivation, sprinkling with soil is not permissible: the bulbs will not form well.
  4. Fertilizers. NPK complex, trace elements.
  5. Watering - as needed: the culture does not like waterlogging.

Permissible humidity of the calculated moisture layer is 0-40 cm - within 70% HB.

In the spring of planting, it is important to thin out.

On industrial plantings, 7-8 irrigations are carried out with a frequency of 8-12 days, which is equal to 350-400 m3 / ha, on a summer cottage - as needed.

Advice! Watering is stopped before the leaves begin to lodging.

As an intensive nutrition spring top dressing microfertilizers - Master, Plantofol, etc. Given that the preparations are not cheap, each farmer and summer resident decides the issue of dressing in his own way: who brings in ash, who microfertilizers at a lower price. The main thing is to be careful with nitrogen. Nitrogen is applied during the second feeding using calcium nitrate.

Advice! Do not water plantings with manure, do not apply fermented chicken manure.

First, it will produce abundant feathers and miniature bulbs. Secondly, it is not safe: these are bacteria, pests and helminths on greenery!

Onion is harvested at the moment of softening of the false stem, when the feather reaches 20-25 cm, or when lodging, coloring the scales in the color inherent in the variety - yellow, yellow-orange. On industrial plantings, harvesting equipment is used - LKG1-4, LPK-1.8, Grimme onion diggers, etc.

With mechanized harvesting technology, the sheet is mowed with a KIR-1.5 B mower, after which it is laid into swaths using LKG-1.4 onion harvesters, etc.

After harvesting, the crop is dried in placers in a well-ventilated place.

About varieties

For autumn planting, a variety and hybrids of short (average daylight hours) are chosen, forming the so-called. bulbous thickenings with a day length of 12-14 hours.

When choosing a variety, pay attention to whether the onion is suitable for winter planting whether zoned for a particular region.

For Central Russia, the varieties Radar, Kip-Vell, Ellan, Odintsovets, Shakespeare, Centurion, Strigunovsky, Stuttgarter Riesen, Arzamassky, Bessonovsky, Danilovsky are good.

In general, there are many productive onion sets suitable for planting in the fall. But - it will be a completely different story. In the meantime, let the feather be green, the turnip be large, and the winter be snowy. Good harvest!

Many people know that onions can be planted both in spring and autumn. Most gardeners follow spring deadlines planting, and not many people practice planting onions before winter. But lately, planting onions before winter has become more and more popular. And this is no accident, gardeners were able to appreciate the positive aspects of such a planting, and there are several of them.

It is worth noting that when planting any crop before winter, it is important to follow all recommendations regarding the timing and technology of planting, otherwise you can get enough results.

When planting in winter, it is very important to choose a suitable winter variety, determine the optimal time, place for planting, and prepare the bed and seed in a quality manner.

Planting onions before winter has a lot of compelling advantages:

  • It is this kind of onion that grows larger and stronger than bulbs planted in spring;
  • When planted before winter, the bulbs are hardened in cold conditions. Such plants are already gaining strength by spring, which means they will be more resistant to diseases and pests. That is why the onion planted before winter is almost not damaged by the annoying onion fly;
  • Another plus of winter planting is the reduction of weeding. The first shoots of onions will appear immediately after the snow melts, the onions will have time to grow and get stronger before the mass appearance of weeds;

Another important factor is that you do not need to take care of the safety of planting material until spring. This is especially important for the smallest fraction of sevka, the so-called "oatmeal". Such a bow will definitely not survive until spring planting, it will simply dry out. Oatmeal almost never shoots, and the harvest of such sets is not the worst.

  • Planting onions before winter - significantly saves time in the hot spring;
  • Early harvest. Onions planted before winter ripen in July. The vacated bed can be reused, or sown with green manure.

The negative side of this planting is a decrease in onion yield in the event of a harsh winter. In the event of sudden changes in temperature or severe frosts the bow may die. Therefore, it is very important to correctly approach the issue of choosing a variety and not deviate from the recommendations for winter planting.

Another negative point is the impossibility of planting large bulbs. They almost always go to the arrow. You can only plant them on a feather. But knowing this feature, you can provide yourself with early greens by planting a little large seed separately.

Grown from bulbs of autumn planting, the crop is well stored. But still spring onions are stored much better.

What onions can be planted before winter

Sevok is usually divided according to the diameter of the bulbs:

  • Oatmeal - the smallest onion, less than 1 cm;
  • the first category - from 1 cm to 1.5 cm;
  • the second category - 1.5–3 cm;
  • samples - more than 3 cm.

For growing onions on a turnip, oatmeal and sets of the first category are suitable, on a feather - of the second category and samples.

The best varieties of winter onions

Not all onion varieties are suitable for autumn planting. When choosing planting material, you need to purchase sets of varieties adapted to the climatic conditions of the region.

In the middle lane for planting before winter, the most popular varieties are:

Stuttgarter Riesen, Radar, Arzamas, Strigunovsky, Danilovsky, Bessonovsky, Ellan, Odintsovets, Senshui, Shakespeare, Red Baron.

Each variety of onion has its own taste characteristics, some are more burning, others are more tender. If you plant several varieties, in the future it will be possible to decide on preferences: which one you like better, which ripens earlier or is more productive. Main characteristics popular varieties winter onions are presented in the following table.

The best varieties of winter onions and characteristics - Table

Onion variety spicy the size storage maturation
Arzamas spicy small lying
Bessonovsky spicy small lying 80
Buran spicy lying 68-83
Danilovsky spicy small lying
Danilovsky-301 peninsular large 100-110
Lugansk spicy large lying 95-105
Mouzon peninsular few 90-110
Myachkovsky-300 65-75
Panther F1 lying 130-135
Radar or Raider spicy lying 250-260
Red Baron spicy large lying 95-110
Ruby peninsular average average 80-90
Senshui spicy large lying
Siberian lying 90-100
Strigunovsky spicy average lying 110-120
Sturon peninsular average lying 105-110
Tamara F1 105-110
Chalcedony spicy average lying 90-95
peninsular 100-105
Shakespeare peninsular large average
Stuttgarter Riesen spicy average lying 70-120
Ellan sweet lying

Planting onions before winter: optimal timing

For planting onions before winter, it is very important to correctly determine the timing.

If planted early, the bulb will have time to germinate. And with a delay in planting, it will not have time to take root before frost. In both cases, the onion can overwinter badly, which will negatively affect the crop in the future.

When planting onions before winter, you need to choose a time so that the bulb has time to form roots before the soil freezes, but cannot germinate. If the feather of the bulb sprouts by 1-2 cm, there is nothing to worry about. Subject to the planting depth, such a bulb will overwinter normally. It is much worse if the bulb sprouts significantly. Beds with such an onion must be mulched to avoid its death. And in winter, snow can be added to such beds.

In order to correctly determine the date of planting a seed, you need to focus on the current temperature conditions and the weather forecast.

Planting can be started if the temperature is around +5°…+7°С for several days, and a gradual decrease in temperature is expected.

To determine the time of planting onions in different regions, you need to focus on the climatic conditions of the region and the current weather conditions at the moment.

So in the middle lane this period is approximately from the end of September to the 20th of October.

In any case, onions should be planted at least a month or even a little more before the onset of cold weather.

To make it easier to deal with the timing, try planting onions at different times. By analyzing the results, one can experimentally establish optimal time planting winter onions in their area.

What to do if you are late with planting onions?

If for some reason you did not have time to plant onions before winter, then here you need to act according to the circumstances.

If there has not yet been frost, then the ground must be carefully covered so that it does not freeze. For these purposes, a layer of compost (of course, preferably thicker), humus, folded several times and other materials is suitable.

Experienced summer residents advise that if there is not a lot of onions, then you can bring a couple of buckets of earth into the house, to the stove. The next day, when the earth warms up, you can plant it, laying out the heated earth directly into the grooves.

If there is a lot of onion, then it is better to sort it out. Leave a large set until spring, and plant a small one.

Caution should be taken with the advice to "spill the earth hot water". AT wet conditions bulbs can rot.

How to plant onions before winter

After what crops can onions be planted

It is very good to plant winter onions in the garden where cucumbers, tomatoes, corn, beets, and cereals used to grow. It is not recommended to plant it after onions and cabbage, garlic.

When growing onions, it is very important to observe crop rotation. You can not plant onions from year to year in one place.

How to choose a place and prepare a bed for planting onions

As well as for, the bed for planting onions must be selected on sunny place a little on the rise. In no case should you choose those areas where water stagnates in spring. Like all bulbs, onion sets will simply rot in such conditions.

It is desirable to choose a place on the site so that in the spring the snow melts there as early as possible.

The garden bed for the autumn planting of onions must be prepared in advance so that the earth has time to settle.

If the onion is planted immediately after digging the earth, then this is fraught with the fact that in the future the soil will compact and settle. Onions will be on the surface of the soil and freeze.

Onions prefer fertile and loose soil with acidity close to neutral. If the acidity is high, then lime or dolomite flour must be added.

To improve the soil for digging, compost or humus is added - 5-6 kg per m².

From fertilizers, apply fertilizers from the Autumn series or superphosphate 20-25 g per 1 sq. meter and potassium salt 10-15 gr. Potash fertilizers can be replaced with ash, which also helps to reduce soil acidity and serves to prevent various rots.

It is advisable to make the beds raised up to 15 cm high; water will not stagnate on such beds. If the soil is dense, heavy, then the creation of raised beds is a must.

How to prepare onions for planting

Preparing sevka before winter has its own characteristics. First of all, it must be visually inspected - the sevok should be dry, hard, with no signs of rot. Sick, damaged, dried onions must be removed from planting material.

Then it needs to be calibrated, divided by size: separate the small ones - oatmeal, sets and samples. Part of this sevka will go to the turnip, the other - to grow greenery.

  • oatmeal (up to 1 cm in diameter) - per head (turnip);
  • sevok (with a diameter of 1 to 2 cm) - on the head and partly a feather (greens);
  • large (diameter more than 2-3 cm) - only on greens (very early).

Pre-sowing preparation of onion sets is a very important stage. And it consists in the following:

  • Sorting and sizing. Dry, rotten bulbs are removed and the seed is laid out according to size. You need to plant them not interspersed, but in different places. The largest ones are best used on a pen. They are more likely to shoot. And the smallest set is best suited for autumn planting and produces large heads.
  • Warming up onion sets. This is done in order to "wake up" the seeds and this operation prevents the onion from shooting. Can be put where the temperature is 20°C for at least 20 days. Then for 10 hours to where it is about 40°C. You can quickly rinse with very hot water and dry.
  • hardening. The bulbs are lowered into water, the temperature of which is 45-50 ° C for 15 minutes. After that, leave for the same time cold water. Cold and hot shower;
  • Onion processing, disinfection. It is done in order to protect the sevok from damage by fungal diseases. Such soaking is carried out immediately before planting. Usually, a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate or a pale blue solution is used for this. blue vitriol(from phytophthora). In a solution of sevoc stand 2-3 hours After that, you need to dry the bulbs well.
  • The use of saline. To reduce the risk of infection of the plant with a stem or onion nematode. Preparation of the solution: for 1 liter of water take 1 tablespoon of table salt. The onion sets are immersed in the mixture for 10-20 minutes. You can use baking soda instead of salt.

Shooting and disease prevention

The following measures are necessary to prevent diseases and exclude the shooting of bulbs in the spring

To prevent shooting

  • Dip the bulbs in a warm solution of potassium permanganate (50-60 ° C) for 20 minutes, when planting, spill the grooves with hot water
  • In order for the sevok not to go into the arrow, it must be well warmed up at a temperature of 50-60 ° C before planting. I usually hang in a canvas bag near the battery for 2-3 days, so that the bag does not touch the battery. It dries out at the same time.

For disease prevention

  • Treatment with the drug "Maxim", "Fitosporin" according to the instructions.
    Dip the sevok for 3 hours in a saline solution (1 tablespoon of salt per 1 liter of water), then for 3 hours in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate.

Dry bulbs tolerate cold snaps better than swollen bulbs, moreover, the latter may begin to germinate too quickly.

Planting onions before winter - technology

Planting onions before winter - technology description:

  1. For planting, you need to level the bed, then make holes or cut grooves according to the scheme:
  • the distance between the grooves is 15-25 cm. This is the optimal distance for processing row spacings with a flat cutter when spring care for onions;
  • groove depth - 5-8 cm (depending on the size of the bulb). Before winter, the planting depth should be greater than when planting in spring. For the smallest set - oatmeal, make grooves no deeper than 2-3 cm, otherwise it will not have enough strength to germinate in the spring;
  • the distance between the bulbs is 7–8 cm. You can plant onions more often. Then in the spring, thinning out the plantings, part of the onion can be used for greens.
  • when planting onions only on a feather, the distance between the onions is slightly different. They are placed closely so that in the spring the plant directs its forces not to the growth of the bulb, but to the feather.
  1. Spread out or stick in the sevok. If you have a severe clay soil, then it is advisable to pour river sand on the bottom of the beard, then add more sand on top of the bulb. All bulbous crops prefer loose soil. This technique will help to avoid the death of the onion from waterlogging in heavy, damp soil.

3. Sprinkle the bulbs with earth and lightly compact. Level the bed with a rake so that the bulbs sprout evenly in the spring.

  1. If the ground is relatively moist, then watering is not necessary so as not to provoke strong growth of the plant. If there is no rain, then 10 days after planting, you will need to water the bed.
  2. The beds can be sprinkled with a little humus, compost or sawdust.

Onion care after planting

For winter onions, special care after planting is not required. It is necessary to cover the beds with planted onions only when the soil is slightly frozen. It is impossible to cover immediately after planting, as the onion can dry out. .

After the onset of a light frost, you need to mulch the bed with fallen leaves, spruce branches, dry tops, dry sawdust, straw, peat or other materials. Top with branches, poles, etc. (to hold snow). In winter, you need to throw snow on the garden bed, this best defense from freezing.

With the onset of spring, when the snow melts and the soil begins to thaw, all shelters should be removed, because the ground under it, on the contrary, will only warm up longer.

Mulch also needs to be removed so that the soil warms up faster.
After the emergence of shoots in early spring, it is necessary to fertilize the bed.

Video: planting onions before winter, features

Conclusion

In fact, planting onions before winter is not a difficult process. The main thing is to choose the right planting material and do all the work on time in compliance with the rules of agricultural technology.