.
Now you need to hang the door with hinges on the body of the product.
The procedure is as follows.
1. We carry out hanging by first placing the product on its side. At a distance of 36 - 40 mm. From the edge of the body part on which we will hang the door, draw a line parallel to the end of the part.
We draw lines opposite the intended installation locations of the loops. Line length is approximately 70 - 100 mm. The main thing is that the line protrudes beyond the dimensions of the loop installation area. This installation platform is also called the counterplate. At what exact distance in the range of 36 - 40 mm. drawing a line depends on the type of loop. The main thing is that the transverse adjustment range of the hinge is not completely selected. In the photo this adjustment range is indicated by an arrow.
For this type of loops:
The optimal distance is 39 mm, as can be seen in the top photo.
For more precise positioning, press the striker firmly with your finger against the body part of the product.
4. Then we disassemble the furniture hinges into two parts, as shown in the photo. That is, we disconnect the counter plate.
5. After this, we install the hinge counters on the body part of the product, aligning the centers of the oval holes with the fastener installation points obtained using a core or an awl.
Either Euroscrews or 4*16 self-tapping screws are usually used as fasteners.
Euroscrews are used when installing massive doors. Before installing them, it is necessary to pre-drill seats about 10 mm deep at the fastening points with a drill with a diameter of 4.5 mm. Do this operation carefully so as not to drill through the chipboard. Euroscrews provide a strong connection between the massive door and the body of the product. But there is also a drawback. Due to their thickness, Euroscrews almost completely “eat up” the vertical range of door adjustment after hanging it. Have you noticed that the holes in the strike plates of the furniture hinges are oval? These oval holes allow you to adjust the door in the vertical direction after hanging, and the thick Euroscrews almost completely fill these ovals and make subsequent adjustment difficult.
If the door is not very massive, then you can use ordinary 4*16 screws as fasteners. They provide a fairly reliable connection and maintain good scope for adjusting the door in the vertical direction.
In the example given, the door was not heavy and I used 4*16 self-tapping screws as fasteners. When fastening, make sure that the screws are in the center of the oval holes in the strike plate.
7. Then we attach the door to the body part of the product and assemble the furniture hinges into a single whole, aligning the corresponding slots with the fixing and adjusting screws on the strike plates and the rotating parts of the hinge.
Pay special attention to ensure that all the slots in the strike plates catch on the heads of the adjusting screws on the second part of the hinge. When assembled, these caps are located at the bottom and are difficult to see. But it is necessary to insert them into the corresponding slots on the strike plates. Otherwise, the door will be skewed and it will not be possible to adjust it in the opening in the horizontal plane.
8. All doors are hung.
All that remains is to adjust it with the appropriate adjustment screws in the opening and erase the marking lines.
Before installing doors in a sliding wardrobe, you need to familiarize yourself in detail with the features and nuances of this process. In general, there is nothing difficult here, and even a person who is inexperienced in such matters can cope with the task. Busy people prefer to buy wardrobe doors and invite a specialist to install them into their home. However, if you carefully study the process, then all the work on installing the structure can be done with your own hands.
Design and principle of operation of sliding wardrobe doors
In order to carry out the process of installing a sliding structure in a closet without stopping and without difficulties, you need to stock up on materials, as well as tools that will help you complete the job. The materials and tools are as follows:
- Profiles that serve as guides.
- Latch.
- Buffer tape.
- Door regulator.
- Framed from the selected material.
- Main door material.
- Rollers with which the door will move.
- Screws.
- Screwdriver.
- Fasteners of the selected type.
- Metal corners for strengthening profiles at joints.
- Drill.
These are the basic materials and tools that will be required for self-installation doors. At individual projects, additional items may be needed.
Name of structural elements sliding door
Advantages of sliding doors
Sliding sliding doors in sliding wardrobes most often become the choice of owners of apartments or houses. This is not surprising, because such structures have many advantages:
These are just some of the advantages that indicate that it is correct to make sliding wardrobe doors.
Door assembly sequence
In order for the door position to be correct, the process must be carried out in the correct order. This is easy to do if you follow this sequence of work:
When preparatory work completed, then you should begin calculating, assembling and installing the door panels themselves. To do this you need:
- Calculate size sliding structures.
- Make a frame for the future door.
- Fill the door.
After filling the door with the selected material, the work can be considered complete.
Fastening the guide at the top of the structure
To install the profile, we drill holes with a drill whose diameter is 4 mm. The distance from one hole to another should be no more than 300 mm. Holes should be made on the profile and on the surface of the upper part of the opening structure in which the doors will be installed.
Drawing of the device and fastening of the upper guide and door
When the process is completed, the profile should be leveled on the surface and secured with the selected fasteners. Usually this choice becomes:
Fastening the guide at the bottom of the structure
As when fixing the top beam of the profile, holes must also be made on the profile that will be attached below. In order for the installation of a sliding wardrobe door to be durable, you need to choose a high-quality bottom profile, because it is this that bears the maximum load.
Despite the fact that the upper and lower profiles are installed perpendicular to each other, the lower beam is not immediately fixed with fasteners. First you need to insert the door between the upper and lower profile, holding bottom part, since at this stage it is not yet secured to the base of the structure.
Installation of upper and lower fastenings for a sliding door
It is necessary to determine how level the door is. This is done using a building level. At this stage of the work, you will need an assistant who will hold the filler until the sliding wardrobe door guides are installed evenly. The lower profile is attached to the structure after the clamp is installed.
Installing the retainer
The latch is an element that fixes the position of the doors when closed, holding the structure in place. The retainer ensures that there are no gaps between the two parts of the door and the side wall.
The clamp is attached inside the lower profile and is firmly inserted into it. One lock is required for each door. In addition to holding the doors in place, these elements allow you to adjust the opening width door designs. That is, they are a kind of stopper. 
The location where the latch should be is measured by determining the location of the outer door wheel. When the door is completely closed, you need to put a mark on the profile with a special marker or other improvised means in the place of the middle of the wheel roller. The center of the clamp is the mark on the profile.
Door adjustment
When the stoppers of the limiters have been installed, you can begin to adjust the location of the door structures. It's not difficult to do. The wheels of sliding doors are designed in such a way that, using the built-in screw, you can adjust the uniformity and tightness of the doors to the side of the door structure and to the upper and lower parts.
Door adjustment hole
A special hex wrench will be useful for this work. The key diameter should be 4 mm.
Installation of buffer tape in the structure
When designing doors, this element protects inner part the cabinet itself from the penetration of dust into its space.
Buffer tape also helps extend the life of cabinet doors. At the moment of opening and closing the sliding structure, the buffer tape softens the impacts, protecting the coating from breakage and cracks.
Installation of the buffer tape is carried out at the moment when you are absolutely sure that the door rollers are correctly fixed. Because the tape blocks access to the screws that allow you to adjust the position of the cabinet. 
There are two types of buffer tapes:
- Those with a short pile (maximum 6 mm).
- Those with a long pile (maximum 12 mm).
Usually the choice falls on tapes with a pile of up to 6 mm, because they are budget-friendly. However, long-pile tape is more durable. But the entire selection process is solely the business of the owners of the apartment or house.
Buffer tape attachment process
Fixation is simple and will not cause any difficulties. Simply peel off the film from the tape and attach it to the ends of the side walls in a vertical position. Color solution selected in accordance with color scheme the entire structure.
The procedure for calculating the size of door structures
When the attachment point around the entire perimeter is prepared for further work, you can start measuring the dimensions of the future door. To understand total amount perimeter, you need to measure the horizontal bar on the right and left sides. And also take measurements of the vertical strip over the entire surface. This will help you understand the overall size of the structure. However, the measurement process does not end there.
Drawing and calculation of the dimensions of sliding doors in a wardrobe
Let's assume that the height of the sashes is 2 meters, and the width measured along the bottom rail is 2.4 m. We use this data and calculate the required width and height of the door leaves. Watch in the video step by step instructions for installing a door in a wardrobe.
Width
When calculating the width, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the side walls. Usually it is 16 mm. Therefore, the size is measured using the following formula:
2400 mm – (16+16 mm)=2368 mm
But the calculation doesn’t end there either. It is also necessary to calculate the distance of the overlapping parts of the door. For example, the gap will be 20 cm for each door. The formula will be as follows:
2368 mm + (200+200 mm) = 1968 mm
If there are two doors, then you need to divide the resulting number by two.
1968/2=984 mm
Diagram of sliding wardrobe doors
This is the width of each door. Calculations are carried out similarly if three or four doors are to be located in the structure. Only in this case the gap should be added as many times as there are sliding structures.
Height
The estimated height of the cabinet structure is 2 m. The height adjustment of the doors should also be calculated using the formula. When making calculations, you should take into account that you need to subtract 15 mm from the top and bottom (this is the width of the cabinet walls), and also subtract 15 mm from the top and bottom (this is the gap formed by the supporting lower and upper profiles). Therefore, the formula is as follows:
2 thousand mm - (15+15 mm)-(15+15 mm)=1940 mm
Drawing with wardrobe dimensions
Sliding door calculation process
Having made the calculations, you can understand that the size of one door is 1940 mm high and 984 mm wide. Based on the measurements, you can begin ordering ready-made structures or self-assembly.
Preparing framing elements
When the size of the sliding door structures is known, you can begin to design the frame where chipboard or mirrors and glass should be located. It all depends on the chosen filling.
To assemble the frame, you need the following elements:
Sequence of actions:
In the horizontal profiles, it is necessary to mark the places of attachment to the sliding wardrobe profile. When all the marks are placed, you need to start drilling the holes. This process needs attention special attention, because the integrity of the structure and the beauty of the furniture as a whole depend on it. 
Frame assembly
When all the parts are prepared, you should begin assembling the structure. To do this, the elements are combined with a tightening screw.
Before fixing the parts, you should check the positioning of each profile with a level.
They must be smooth and accurate, otherwise door leaf It just won't fall into place.
Wheel installation process
It is necessary to install wheels on the lower profile. Cogs go deep into the rollers, which are then screwed in and align the position of the doors.
Filling installation
When the frame is assembled, the work remains small. You just need to insert the filling into the already installed frame. Assembly instructions are simple. An elastic seal is stretched around the perimeter of the sliding door leaf. The tightening screws of the frame are unscrewed, and a sheet of the selected material is inserted into the profile connector. Then the tightening screws are tightened again. 
The process of installing the rubber seal
After this step, the process of installing doors in the wardrobe can be considered complete. All that remains is to decorate the surface with the desired elements and fully enjoy the functionality of the piece of furniture.
Hello dear readers of the site. In this article you will learn about the doors of a closet or bedside table. This is a disease of any furniture made from chipboard.
I have been using this method for a long time and it has never let me down.
1 . We take two drills from different diameters: one is 5-6mm, and the second is 9-10mm, and we drill out the holes into which the furniture screws were screwed to a depth of 10mm. We drill first with a thin drill, and then with a thick one. Do it carefully so as not to make a through hole..
2 . We adjust the wooden stick to the diameter of the holes and cut off two chops 9-10mm high.
3 . Coat the holes and caps well with glue. Then we hammer in the chops and leave them like that until the next day so that the glue dries.
4
. We put the loop in its place and make marks where the screws will go in. Using a drill with a diameter of 4 mm, we drill holes to a depth of 10 mm, and then drive the screws so that later they can be easily screwed into place.
Take a 4mm drill bit, since the diameter of the self-tapping screw is 6.5 mm, and if you make the hole wider, you will have to do everything again.
5 . Put the loop in place and screw it on. As you can see, everything is simple.
If your furniture is still Soviet-made, then it will be enough to use a drill of a slightly larger diameter to drill out the holes into which the screws were screwed, pour in a little PVA glue, drive in the wooden tips and leave for a day for the glue to dry. Then also drill a hole in the chopstick with a thin 2.5 mm drill and screw the loop into place.
There is another option. PVA glue is poured into the holes, 3-4 matches are inserted and the loop is immediately screwed into place. But it's not very good way, since after a while the loop begins to dangle again. Although as an option, those who don’t have time will also do it.
Now you know how to fix a loose furniture hinge.
Good luck!
Many furniture is equipped with doors. Correct location hinges ensures convenient use and long service life of the door. Sometimes it happens that the door does not open well or is slightly askew. Such moments cause unpleasant emotions when using the closet. Therefore, it is worth paying more attention and more seriously to the fact that when furniture hinges are installed, the installation and markings must be carried out taking into account all the rules.
Do-it-yourself installation of hinges begins with disassembling the part itself. When making furniture, various cabinet hinges are used. The most popular hinges are overhead ones. They are used when attaching facades to the body. There are also semi-overhead, internal, corner, using a closer and spring ones. The question of how to install overhead furniture hinges will be discussed in more detail. In particular, the well-known four-joint model. The sizes of such loops vary. The most common with a diameter of 35 mm. The canopy includes the following parts:
- cup;
- mounting plate;
- shoulder.
The cup is fixed on the facade, and the mounting strip is fixed on the cabinet body. The shoulder is involved in bridging the connection of these two elements. To properly install furniture hinges with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- ruler;
- construction level;
- cutter;
- pencil;
- screwdriver;
- screws.
The diameter of the cutter is 35 mm. When all the tools and materials are ready, the next stage begins.
Tools
Marking
Installing furniture hinges with your own hands involves precise markings. If you make poor markings, you can get defects when opening the door. The process of marking for furniture hinges involves finding the center of the hole for them. You should retreat 7-12 cm from the edge of the facade. The number of hinges installed on the door may vary. But you need to maintain a certain distance between the canopies, equal to 50 cm. There is a certain dependence of the number of canopies on the door parameters.
| Facade weight, kg | Front length, cm | ||||
| Up to 50 | 50-100 | 100-150 | 150-200 | More than 200 | |
| Number of canopies | |||||
| 4-5 | 2 | ||||
| 6-9 | 2 | ||||
| 10-13 | 3 | ||||
| 14-18 | 5 | ||||
| Over 19 | 5 | ||||
When the number of canopies is determined, the central holes are marked relative to the width of the door. Moreover, the distance from the side of the door should be 2.1-2.2 cm. It should also be taken into account that the fastening should not lie on the location of the shelves.
Thus, having measured required distance from the top and bottom of the door, a mark is made. Next, keeping the indentation relative to the width, the point of the future location is also marked. At the intersection of the measured marks, a notch should be made using a screw or nail. If the facade height is more than 100 cm, marks must be made every 50 cm.
Hole preparation
To understand how to properly install and hang hinges, it is important to follow all the required steps. The next installation stage is how to embed furniture hinges? Using a drill or screwdriver, you need to drill holes. In this case you need to use a cutter. The facade is laid on a hard surface. Drilling is carried out in the place of the marking.
Installation of a furniture hinge is carried out taking into account the following conditions:
- The hole depth is 12-13 mm. The cut-in should not be deeper to avoid cracks appearing on the front side of the door;
- the use of a sharpened cutter helps to avoid chipping or damage to the surface of the facade;
- the drill or screwdriver should be vertical, corresponding to the drilling axis, to avoid damage to the surface;
- Drilling should not be done in a hurry, otherwise the resulting hole will be sloppy.
After drilling for one hole, the next slots are drilled. When all the holes are made, the stage of laying the loop cups in them follows.
Hinge Attachment
Hinges are placed in the holes and, using a ruler or level, their position is adjusted relative to the height of the facade. Each canopy must tightly touch the surface of the facade. If the location of the awnings is not adjusted, the door may take an oblique position. When the hinges are aligned, you should make marks for the screws. This can be done with a pencil or with the screw itself. Next, use a screwdriver to screw the furniture hinges to the door.
Hanging the facade
When the marking and installation of the furniture hinge is completed, the most difficult stage begins - attaching the installed door to the cabinet body. Door hanging stroke:
- mark the installation sites for the mounting pads for the hinges;
- attaching a platform for securing hinges that are installed on the facade;
- hang the door to the side of the cabinet;
- connecting two hinge parts;
- adjusting the cabinet door relative to the cabinet using a screwdriver.
Hanging the door is best done on a flat surface. In this case, the side of the cabinet to which the canopy bar is attached should be located in a horizontal position. This creates a certain convenience when trying on and screwing the facade to the sidewall. After screwing it to the body, you can place the cabinet in a vertical position and make adjustments relative to the body.
Adjustment
The final stage of installing furniture canopies is regulation. After the door is attached to the body, it is necessary to make adjustments in three planes. Of course, you will have to unscrew and tighten the screw several times, but a favorable outcome is guaranteed. Three planes are vertical, horizontal and relative to the depth of fixation:
- adjustment relative to depth helps to press the facade closer to the body or weaken it. Use a screwdriver to tighten the oval hole. This type of adjustment is widely used in rooms where the floors have some unevenness;
- Vertical adjustment helps move the façade in a vertical position. Adjustment is made by twisting the oval holes. After some time, the door may sag. Therefore, it is necessary to regulate canopies occasionally;
- horizontal adjustment involves moving the door from left to right or vice versa. Its purpose is to avoid gaps between the door and the cabinet body. Let's apply this method in rooms with uneven walls and the floor.
The adjustment step can be performed when the cabinet is not yet hung. But, in order to immediately find your bearings regarding the walls and ceiling, it is best to hang the cabinet on the wall.
It turns out that you don’t need any special knowledge or skills to attach hinges. Installing a furniture hinge is not difficult at all. The main thing is that when installing a furniture hinge, marking and installation were carried out taking into account all the rules. This allows you to avoid the appearance of cracks on the facade, gaps between the body and the door, and friction when opening. Moreover, work done with your own hands brings a lot of positive emotions.
Or, as they are also called, cup hinges are by far the most common fittings for hanging swing facades. Thanks to the variety of their shapes and modifications, you can install any façade exactly the way you want.
In this article we will analyze the process of installing a simple cup hinge (complex ones with closers, etc. are installed in almost the same way).
From the tools for work, we will need a screwdriver, a pencil with a ruler or square and a drill with a diameter of 35 mm. It is worth mentioning that there are also hinges with a mounting diameter of 26 mm. I have not seen cutters of this diameter, so I drill for such hinges with a simple 25 mm cutter, shaking it around the circumference, thus selecting the missing millimeter.
Doors should not be made too wide and heavy; the width should not exceed 500 mm, otherwise the load on the hinges will be too great. The above diagram will allow you to figure out how many hinges to put on one facade, depending on its size. It’s better to make high doors with a width of 300 mm
We mark the hole for the cup on the facade. To do this, at the desired height, departing from the edge 21-22 mm 
(ours will help with marking) we drill a blind hole with a Forstner cutter. You need to retreat at least 70 mm from the upper and lower edges, otherwise you can screw the loop opposite the lower or upper horizons of the box, which is unacceptable. It should be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the facade and have a depth of 11-12 mm. Then we drill a blind hole. 
It is necessary to drill on a hard, level substrate so that the cutter's tenon does not push the façade off the face. The drill needs to make small rocking-circular movements (this makes drilling much easier).
I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that most budget cutters are made with a centering tenon 3 mm long, so there is a high risk of drilling through the part. For prevention, you should either shorten the tenon on the emery or grinder (maintaining alignment), or simply fill your hand, training on scraps.
Pay attention to the black pipe lying near the cutter - this is a vacuum cleaner. Collects fine dust and some large sawdust, which has a beneficial effect on the cleanliness of the workplace.
Insert a loop into the resulting hole, aligning it perpendicular to the edge, mark the holes for the screws with a pencil, 
Use a thin drill or awl to deepen the markings.
We put the hinges in place and secure each hinge with two self-tapping screws with a countersunk head.
We attach the facade to the rack, align it with respect to the vertical dimensions
Mark the attachment points with a pencil. 
In order for all the hinges to stand level, you can use this method: support them with a long ruler, an even block or the same facade. 
Now we attach the finished door to the body in open form and mark the holes for the fasteners with a pencil.
It is advisable to do this when the box is lying on the floor “on its back” - it’s much easier this way.
We drill them out with a thin drill. If the cabinet is already standing, and the facade is too large and it is inconvenient to place it vertically, then we mark and drill holes on the body for the overlay strip, according to the drilling map. In our case, we use a strip without Euroscrews. We mark the axis of the hinge, along it in depth we mark 37 mm (in the case of an overlay facade) and 37+16 mm (in the case of an inset facade and 16 mm on both sides of the axis.
We fix the counter plate with self-tapping screws.
We install the facade itself, to do this we insert the shoulder groove under the fixing screw of the strip, while making sure that the notch on the adjusting screw takes its place in the groove on the counter strip.
Tighten all screws.
You can start adjusting the facade.