In a private household, a milling machine is always useful. The equipment is indispensable in the manufacture of various wooden products- from window frames to various small crafts. The milling machine consists of a support table and the router itself. If the owner already has a manual router, then you can make a router table with your own hands.
The table is the main base of the machine. Milling cutters are its working parts. With the help of these parts, many operations are performed when processing wood blanks. On a machine, longitudinal grooves, channels, vertical recesses, oval bevels and much more are made in wood. A table is necessary for precise placement of the cutter - both horizontally and vertically.
Milling table design
The machine desktop must meet the following requirements:
- Standard height work surface ranges from 800 to 900 mm. The height of the table can be different - at the request of the owner of the workshop.
- The surface of the table should ensure unhindered sliding of the wooden workpiece.
- The milling cutter must be equipped with an elevator that will easily move the cutter vertically.
- Chip and dust suction must be installed in the working area.
- The mounting plate must ensure reliable fastening of the router. The thickness of the plate should allow the cutting element to extend upward as much as possible.
- The clamping parts must be such that the worker’s hands cannot accidentally get under the cutter.
- The machine bed must be stable, and at the same time allow the machine to be easily moved to the desired location.
Manufacturing of bed and table top
In a home workshop, inexpensive auxiliary materials are often used to make the supporting part of the machine. To do this, take pieces of MDF, construction plywood, a metal corner, hardware (bolts, screws, washers and nuts) and so on.
bed
The supporting structure for the machine is made from wooden beam or welded metal profile. Some craftsmen adapt it to the bed old table or workbench. The most important thing in the design of the frame is stability. During operation of the milling cutter, various vibration loads may occur.
If old furniture is loose, it is worth installing additional fasteners. To do this, use a metal corner, which is attached to questionable parts of the structure through drilled holes with screws.
Most reliable design there will be a frame made of steel angle 40x40 mm. For this you need welding machine and experience with it.
Tabletop
The organization of the desktop can be “seen” in videos about the operation of milling machines published on the Internet. When making a tabletop, it is necessary to follow the requirements that ensure easy movement of the wooden workpiece and the cutting part of the cutter, as well as reliable fixation of the workpiece relative to the cutter.
DIY machine assembly option
An aluminum T-shaped profile is installed on both side ends of the table for fastening and free movement of a parallel stop in the form of a bar. The plank on the sides is equipped with aluminum fasteners that fit into the grooves of the side profiles.
A rectangular cutout is made in the plank for the exit of the cutter. A guide profile is attached to the part, along which the vertical and angular clamps move. Clamps fix the passage of the wooden workpiece through the milling zone.
A parallel groove is cut in the tabletop to move the miter gauge slider. Switches with a button are installed on one of the supports under the tabletop emergency stop milling cutter.
The work platform is often made of MDF and construction plywood. The surface of such material wears out quickly. A more reliable tabletop is made of textolite. The textolite surface has high wear resistance and a low coefficient of friction.
The ideal option for a tabletop would be a steel sheet or an aluminum alloy plane. Since the platform must have technological grooves and holes, making such a part with your own hands will be quite difficult, and sometimes impossible. A solution can be found in using parts of old equipment.
Router plate
An opening is cut out in the center of the tabletop to install the work plate. It is better to make the plate from the same PCB. Made in the stove round hole. Round inserts are made under the hole. By combining inserts, select the through hole in diameter for the desired cutter.
The ring inserts, like the plate itself, must be flush with the entire surface of the work table. The rings ensure that the cutter fits tightly into the working area.
Fraser
The power plant functions like an ordinary drill. The milling chuck clamps the cutter axis and imparts rotational movement to it. The unit is attached from below to the working plate. When designing a table, it is necessary to take into account the preservation of space for placing the device under the tabletop.
A compact electric motor is used as a milling cutter. An experienced craftsman can make a homemade power tool. In some cases, an electric drill is used. To get rid of this problem, purchase a ready-made manual router. The retail chain offers customers a wide range of hand-held power tools of this type.
A hand router from different manufacturers has approximately the same set of options and dimensions. The tool is mainly intended for processing wooden workpieces.
The milling machine allows the worker to control the processing process with two hands, and when working with hand tools, hands are busy holding the unit itself. It is advantageous to place a manual milling cutter in a homemade machine design.
Mounting plate
The polymer sole of the router is removed and a mounting plate is cut along its contour. The mounting plate is made from metal sheet, thickness no more than 6 mm. Mounting holes are drilled in the working area along the screws securing the router through the mounting plate.
The holes are made from the side of the working surface with a countersunk so that the screw heads do not protrude above the plane of the table.
Elevator
An elevator is a device for moving something vertically. In this case, this concerns the milling unit. The manual router is equipped with a lift. The problem of installing an elevator becomes relevant when home-made devices are used as a power plant.
You can purchase a ready-made factory-made elevator. There are many options for making homemade lifting devices published on the Internet. The main task of the lift is to accurately fix the cutter vertically. The protrusion of the conical cutting surface of the cutter determines the depth and width of the wood sample in the workpiece.
One of the most popular options for a homemade elevator is to move the router on a vertical threaded metal rod.
Diagram of a homemade router lift
A shelf is installed under the table into which a rod with a flange nut is inserted. A flywheel is installed higher on the rod. By rotating it, you achieve the desired height of the cutter above the surface of the work table.
Rotary milling table
The rotary model of the machine is complex design, ensuring the inclination of the wooden workpiece in relation to the cutter. Thanks to this feature of the machine, wooden blanks of complex shapes are produced. It is almost impossible to assemble such tables at home.
Safety when working on a homemade machine
To operate the milling machine safely, several safety rules must be followed:
- The metal frame must be grounded.
- The machine is installed in a dry, ventilated area.
- If the machine is made entirely of wood, then the milling cutter body itself is grounded.
Conclusion
A DIY milling table will save cash owner of the workshop. The homemade design takes into account all the individual needs of the machine owner, which makes it stand out from ready-made options.
When purchasing a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks for it and the scope of work to be performed. Therefore, the master, thinking about buying, tries to find universal option, combine the precision of machining on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.
In this article we will look at a compromise option - a table for a manual router with your own hands, drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.
To make a milling table with your own hands, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or bought ready-made option, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.
The working process of a hand milling cutter consists of moving the tool along the plane of the workpiece. If the router is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then manual typewriter becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.
Row milling operations It is preferable to carry out only in a stationary position - selecting grooves and grooves, various methods of processing the edges of products and laying tenon joints.
The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location. It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.
Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing one with our own hands. stationary table. The design of a portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual router from a structure, and remount it after the job is completed.
Basic elements of a milling table
Let's consider an option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to make with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.
It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:
- bed;
- table top;
- mounting plate;
- longitudinal stop;
- pressing combs.
bed
You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (trimmings plywood sheet, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes). We will put together a bed for the machine from boards or use an old table or bedside table. 
Anything that allows you to react firmly and steadily to the vibration of the milling machine and will perform the functions of load-bearing structure machine
When making a machine bed with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself. Only by taking into account the characteristics of the operator (height, arm length, etc.) will the work process take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.
It is convenient to use a kitchen countertop for a working surface. But this option is relevant if you changed kitchen furniture and the old tabletop lies idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.
The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a durable and reliable table for a hand router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the feeding of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.
The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed; the width of the tabletop changes, but the depth and thickness remain unchanged. The picture shows a table top with dimensions suitable for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is not mandatory; each master changes them to suit specific conditions and requirements.
A hole is cut out in the center of the tabletop for attaching a milling machine. The dimensions of this hole are larger than the seat plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded for installation mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the rebate is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the surface of the table.
For greater machine functionality and part processing capabilities different sizes grooves are selected in the tabletop. They install a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.
The mounting plate is required to attach the router to the table. It is made from durable materials such as: metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used for fastening. To make it easier to control the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.
The plate should fit tightly into its seat on the machine table top. Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over mounting the router directly on bottom part countertops. The small thickness of the plate increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter used. The diameter of the cutters varies from 3 mm to 76 mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with replaceable rings to change the hole for the cutter.
When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required that guides the workpiece along the table. The result of the work done with your own hands will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the table top. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.
A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction. Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working element, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.
Longitudinal stop (front view) 
Longitudinal stop (rear view) 
To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.
The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure. Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the comb moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.
The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves lengthwise and crosswise in a horizontal plane.
- If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table yourself, with the help of which you can adjust the comfortable height for work.
- To ensure durability of the equipment, the wooden parts of the milling table are coated with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
- Mount protective glass on a longitudinal support that will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
- Use gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
- Do not wear loose-fitting clothes.
- Use manual milling machines with a rated power of more than 1100 W.
- Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 the length of the shank.
Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:
- before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
- do not apply much force when milling (too strong a feed will damage the tool);
- install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank, but not tightly, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
- when using large diameter cutters, reduce the rotation speed;
- disconnect the tool from the power supply before performing adjustments and maintenance;
- Monitor the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged ones.
Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible using a milling machine. This tool can be fully used in a special installation. This is what a milling table is. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. There is no point in spending a lot of money on purchasing this design, since you can make it yourself.
Milling table: purpose, types
The convenience of using a router placed in a table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface being processed, but the part that moves relative to it. A router fixed to the table gives more ample opportunities processing of parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work
Compact homemade design will replace an industrial machine
There are three main types of router tables:
- Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and non-movable.
- Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
- Aggregate - the design provides for expansion of the surface of the saw table.
Design diagram
To make your own countertops, you usually use MDF boards covered with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.
Wooden structure is easy to process and use
Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so it needs to be painted.
The covers of the milling tables must be smooth. They are often made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are easy to process. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.
Branded countertops made of steel or aluminum already have holes for a specific model of router. If the manufactured countertop models are made of MDF boards or plastic, then the companies prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.
There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is attached with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.
The table cover is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices for leveling the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the working surface of the milling table.
Creates convenience when selecting cutter diameter
When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the surface of the table and be easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made either solid or in the form of several overlays. To prevent chips and debris from accumulating, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The vacuum cleaner hose is connected to it.
The front parts of the stop are in the form of several fastened overlays
The milling table can be upgraded with a frame into which the grinder will be attached. Read more about self-production You can read this design.
Required tools and materials
- Carpenter's glue.
- Bolts with nuts.
- Screws.
- MDF board and birch plywood sheet
- Jigsaw.
- Spanners.
- Sandpaper.
- Ruler.
- Pencil
Drawings and calculations
To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. Most in a simple way To create a table top, support part and parts for a milling table, you will use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board, laminated on both sides, will not warp during use. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table we used:
- 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
- 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
- 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
- Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
- Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.
Photo gallery: Milling table diagrams
Step-by-step instruction
The structure of the upper part of the table will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. As a replacement for this material, you can use birch plywood.
- Saw sheet material into fragments according to the specified sizes.
1 - working surface; 2 - support base; 3 - its support wall; 4 - gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)
Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.
- It is necessary to remove the plastic cover from the base of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking cutters on the surface of the countertop.
The plastic pad will serve as a template for marking
- On the largest sawn part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make markings for the cutter. To do this, you need to draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle and put a mark. Then place the pad so that the router's adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be secured with screws.
The mounting holes must line up with the trim
- Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.
Determining its diameter
- From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).
Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining
- Using the holes in the sole of the pad, mark future holes for the mounting screws.
Using an overlay as a template
- In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.
There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.
- Attach four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the tabletop using screws.
Use wood glue or epoxy as glue.
- Glue the remaining pieces together and secure them with screws. Install a router at the bottom of the tabletop.
1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base
- Now you need to make the table support structure. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.
1 - outer side pillar; 2 - internal stand; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base
- Cut the plywood into pieces according to size.
- Assemble the table structure, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, and glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.
1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar
- Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make the plate, you need duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the router sole onto it (using double sided tape). In this case, the overlay will serve as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the cover. After this, remove the cover and use a large drill to make indentations for the caps in the plate.
Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible
- As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which are sanded.
A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier
- Drill holes at the place where the cutter is attached and widen them with reverse side tabletops with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the tabletop, aligning them for fastening with bolts. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the tabletop and secure it with screws.
The holes of the table top and the plate must match
- For ease of operation of the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the future to process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to embed guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the slab.
Rotary and side stop will make the process convenient
- Install a guide profile in the front stop bar for attaching clamps, pads and protective devices.
- To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a part measuring 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching an adapter fitting for a vacuum cleaner.
The part is made of plywood
- For support, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.
Wing nuts are used for convenience
- To mill small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, we cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a comb clamp, it is better to use maple wood. To cut out a part, you need to choose an area with a straight direction of the wood fibers. It is better to cut the ridges using a circular saw on a machine.
Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments
- Secure the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in areas where milling work will be carried out. Clear everything wooden elements from dust and cover with oil.
Safety precautions
When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. You can also equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent particles from flying away.
While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective screen and measuring workpieces is prohibited. To avoid flying particles from getting into your eyes, you must use safety glasses. This is especially true when high-speed milling or processing bronze, cast iron or silumin elements.
It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to keep your hands close to the tool rotation zone. Before installing drills, you must ensure their reliability and strength, as well as their integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips or cracks. If such defects are detected, they must be replaced.
Video: Making a milling table with your own hands
Thanks regarding inexpensive materials and your skill can build a compact design of a milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.
A person who loves to create and make things on his own will get great pleasure from creating a router table. This is quite a difficult, but exciting task. Making a table for a router yourself means getting a structure that costs much less than one made at the factory. When producing a milling table, it is imperative to follow safety precautions.
The milling table is designed for processing materials, cutting shaped holes, and making joints. A table made by yourself will be more economical and much more convenient than a purchased one.
Work in which it is necessary to perform milling is always associated with the movement of the tool along the surface of a rigidly fixed workpiece. However, when you need to mill a part with small dimensions, some difficulties arise. To solve this problem, you can make a table for the router yourself. In this case, the tool will have a stationary mount; the workpiece itself must move. As a result, it will be possible to quickly carry out face machining and remove overhangs.
Standard milling table
The simplest way to create a table for a router is to mount the router directly to the tabletop. Fastening occurs through drilled hole. This setup has proven to work well. In this case, the router is located at an angle of 90° to the tabletop; it is rigidly fixed to the table, which dampens excessive vibration.
Such an installation is considered the best if the milling cutter has a solid base and if it has the ability to regulate the immersion of the tool. The base of the router must be fixed to the tabletop so that the router can be lowered to the required depth. This installation method has some disadvantages that need to be kept in mind.
Firstly, the thickness of the tabletop affects the working range of the tool; it allows you to work with cutters that have long shanks.
Secondly, the work is limited by the single diameter of the hole for attaching the cutter.
And lastly, if you have one router, its constant installation and removal, changing the cutter, adjusting the height is very inconvenient.
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Bed production
The bed is understood as the main part, without which not a single router table can do. To do it, the most suitable different materials. You can use metal profiles, MDF boards, wood, etc.
Perhaps the most the best option there will be application metal profile. Existing butt joints are secured only with bolts during assembly. Welding work are excluded. The design will be highly reliable, it will be technologically advanced and easy to assemble.
The dimensions of the bed do not have fixed dimensions; they are selected by each craftsman purely individually. The main criterion will be the size of the parts that have to be processed. To accurately determine the dimensions of the bed, it is best to make a small sketch.
In order to make it convenient to work, the frame needs to be deepened into the floor by about 15 cm. The most important parameter of the table is its height. The optimal length would be 1 m. To get maximum convenience, it is worth equipping the table for the router with adjustable supports.
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Cover device
Best suited for this part kitchen countertop, made of chipboard, having a thickness of 40 mm. This material perfectly dampens vibration, it has a hard, absolutely smooth surface on which the workpiece moves perfectly.
Modern phenolic plastic of high hardness is also suitable for the production of the lid. It has an absolutely flat surface and is not afraid of moisture. Plastic does not cause any difficulties in processing, which makes it possible to make grooves where they will be installed aluminum profiles and stops. The only drawback is its high cost.
To make router tables more reliable for long-term operation, you can make an aluminum tabletop. This material never corrodes and is lightweight. But before manufacturing, aluminum must be clad so that there are no dirty marks left on the workpieces.
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Plates for installing the router into the table
Router tables have the plates needed to mount directly into the table. This method has several advantages.
Due to the fact that the plate is no more than 10 mm thick, it is possible to easily get the router to replace the cutter.
You can use additional insert plates to be able to use different diameters cutters Such an insert plate can become a support plate during the operation of milling surfaces on large parts. The plate gives the router increased stability; the use of plates helps to mill wide grooves of parts.
Inserting the plate is quite difficult. It is necessary to first drill a mounting hole in the table to obtain a tight fit for subsequent insertion of the plate. When there are large gaps, increased vibration occurs. If the plate does not have a reliable, tight attachment to the table, milling accuracy will not be maintained. Drilling a hole too large into the top of the router table you are making will cause it to weaken. Therefore, when calculating the diameter of the hole, care must be taken to create reinforcement for the tabletop. It has great importance so that the tabletop and insert are made flush. Additional gaskets, washers, etc. will help cope with this problem.
Lift for router in this table:
Part 1 - https://youtu.be/RA4-75ijmWg
Part 2 - https://youtu.be/GHqP4Wceu08
March 2015. I finally decided to make a table for the Bosch 1400 ACE manual router, because the last time with the bed (and there I had to mill all the edges of all the parts) I was very tired and spent a lot of time.
The design is hardly unique, because any carpentry fan has already made and laid out his own table for a router, but this is my version and it will not be superfluous for others to experience and review. As always, a lot was decided in the process and improvisedly, for example, to secure the router from the bottom of the table, its side stop, or rather the pins from the side stop, helped me a lot. On the other hand, dismantling the router is now quite problematic, but this is the first milling table and it does its job.
A milling table made from a manual router is easy necessary thing. You will understand this when you run any part in a couple of seconds. Previously, each part had to be pressed with clamps to the table, a pass was made, clamps were changed, the pass was completed, the part was turned over, etc.
A table for a router solves all this instantly, and most importantly, it cost about 500 rubles, while ready-made tables cost an order of magnitude and many times more.
Second part: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF7BVRbK4hE
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I think that those home craftsmen who have a manual router, but do not have a table for a router, have more than once thought about buying or making a table for a router. Since using a milling cutter stationary, the ease of working with it greatly increases, especially when working with small elements.
But for a home workshop, a table is often not justified, both for financial reasons, and, for example, in my apartment due to the space it takes up. Therefore, as an option, you can use a small homemade milling table which is attached to universal workbench or even to a regular table.
The simplest milling table
You can make a table from an ordinary piece of chipboard or plywood by screwing a router to it.
But you will need to take thick enough material so that it has the necessary rigidity, and thick material will reduce the output of the cutter and thereby reduce the depth of the grooves being machined. Therefore, it is still worth making a box for the tabletop that will provide rigidity and reduce the thickness of the tabletop.
In addition, it will be very useful if the table has a side support with adjustment and the ability to attach a vacuum cleaner.
Removing shavings and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner is very important when working in an apartment, and order and cleanliness in the workshop will also not hurt.
This article describes how to make such a table for a router yourself.
Let's start with the box
First of all, the table box is made; for this you will need two pieces of thick plywood 18-21mm, which are glued together with PVA glue and tightened with clamps.
In total we will need 4 blanks. 
In one of the blanks, using a hacksaw, we cut two grooves for clamps. In this case, we make several cuts along the width of the groove with a hacksaw, and remove the remaining plywood between the cuts with a chisel and hammer. 
We make a tabletop
You need to cut out the tabletop, apply markings (the location of the cutter and holes for fasteners) for a specific router.
We mark the holes for the screws securing the tabletop to the frame. 
When everything is marked, we drill all the holes with a drill, and you also need to countersink the holes for the screws, then the countersunk screw will be deepened, will not protrude beyond the surface of the tabletop and therefore will not interfere with the movement of workpieces along the surface of the milling table.
Assembling the table
For this we need screws and a screwdriver. 
Here is the table base assembled. 
When the table is assembled, you need to twist two rods into the box through the tabletop.
A rod is used on one side of which there is a “thread like a screw”, and on the other there is a regular thread for a nut.
In the future, a side stop for the router will be installed at these levels using the wings. 
Side stop
Let's start making the side support.
For this we need two plywood blanks.
DIY milling tables (drawings, videos and diagrams)
One workpiece will be pressed against the table, and the part processed by the router will slide along the second.
We drill holes through which the two workpieces will be combined into a single whole. We countersink them. 
We use a Forstner drill to make cutouts for the cutter. 
Using a hacksaw, we refine the cutouts for the cutter and make grooves for the side stop clamping mechanism. 
Using rectangular plywood blanks, we assemble two side support blanks at 90 degrees.
We assemble the box for connecting the vacuum cleaner. 
Now you need to build the nozzle into the dust removal box and screw the box itself to the side stop. 
All that remains is to press the side stop to the table for the manual router using the thumbs. 
So elegant and compact table Anyone who knows how to hold a tool in their hands can make one for a router with their own hands. 
And this is a router in the table in the process of removing a quarter with a straight groove cutter. 
In the future it would be worth making a protective screen for the cutter and spot lighting working area and an emergency stop button for the router.
Related posts in this category:
Tips for making your own milling table
When purchasing a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks for it and the scope of work to be performed. Therefore, the master, thinking about a purchase, tries to find a universal option, combining precision in processing on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.
In this article we will look at a compromise option - a table for a manual router with your own hands; drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.
To make a milling table with your own hands, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or to buy a ready-made version, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.
The working process of a hand milling cutter consists of moving the tool along the plane of the workpiece.
If the router is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then the manual machine becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.
It is preferable to perform a number of milling operations only in a stationary position - cutting out grooves and grooves, various methods of processing the edges of products and laying tenon joints.
The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location.
It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.
Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands.
The design of a portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual router from a structure, and remount it after the job is completed.
Basic elements of a milling table
Let's consider an option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to make with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.
It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:
- bed;
- table top;
- mounting plate;
- longitudinal stop;
- pressing combs.
bed
You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (cut plywood sheets, chipboard, edged boards, metal corners, pipes).
We will put together a bed for the machine from boards or use an old table or bedside table. 
Anything that will allow you to react firmly and steadily to the vibration of the milling machine and will serve as the supporting structure of the machine will do.
When making a machine bed with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself.
Homemade table for a manual router
Only by taking into account the operator’s characteristics (height, arm length, etc.) will the work process take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.
Tabletop
It is convenient to use a kitchen countertop for a working surface.
But this option is relevant if you have changed kitchen furniture and the old countertop is lying idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.
The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a strong and reliable table for a manual router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the feeding of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.
The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed; the width of the tabletop changes, but the depth and thickness remain unchanged.
The picture shows a table top with dimensions suitable for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is not mandatory; each master changes them to suit specific conditions and requirements.
A hole is cut out in the center of the tabletop for attaching a milling machine.
The dimensions of this hole are larger than the seat plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded to install the mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the rebate is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the surface of the table.
For greater functionality of the machine and the ability to process parts of different sizes, grooves are selected in the tabletop.
They install a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.
Mounting plate
The mounting plate is required to attach the router to the table.
It is made from durable materials such as metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used for fastening. To make it easier to control the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.
The plate should fit tightly into its seat on the machine table top.
Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over attaching a router directly to the bottom of the tabletop. The small thickness of the plate increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter used. The diameter of the cutters varies from 3 mm to 76 mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with replaceable rings to change the hole for the cutter.
Longitudinal stop
When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required that guides the workpiece along the table.
The result of the work done with your own hands will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the table top. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.
A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction.
Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working element, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.
Longitudinal stop (front view) 
Longitudinal stop (rear view) 
Pressing combs
To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.
The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure.
Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the comb moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.
The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves lengthwise and crosswise in a horizontal plane.
- If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table yourself, with the help of which you can adjust the comfortable height for work.
- To ensure durability of the equipment, the wooden parts of the milling table are coated with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
- Mount the protective glass on the longitudinal support, which will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
- Use gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
- Do not wear loose-fitting clothes.
- Use hand routers with a power rating greater than 1100 watts.
- Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 the length of the shank.
Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:
- before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
- do not apply much force when milling (too strong a feed will damage the tool);
- install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank, but not tightly, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
- when using large diameter cutters, reduce the rotation speed;
- disconnect the tool from the power supply before performing adjustments and maintenance;
- Monitor the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged ones.
DIY milling machine
Do-it-yourself milling table: drawings, photos, videos
Translated by SaorY for mozgochiny.ru
Everyone brain craftsmen Good day!
For those of you who don’t have large workshops or small tool racks, this will come in handy homemade this article, which compactly fits all useful tools, and which can be easily moved to other work sites.
When creating this brain games I tried to make it as compact as possible so that it could be used comfortably even in small space, and move even if you don’t have a car.
For this purpose, it has transport wheels, and can be moved under the tree you can do it alone, but if you still use a car for this, you will only need a little help when loading.
This compact machine is homemade includes: circular table, router table and jigsaw. It also has a large cabinet in which you can store your other tools.
Useful link
To show under the tree in action I'll make a couple of boxes from cheap ones pine boards.
The video shows how I cut boards for drawers on a circular table using a sled; to obtain the required dimensions, I use an additional strip with a clamp.
Then I make a groove for the base.
The desired angle can be obtained using a miter gauge with a guide.
By removing the cover, you can set the angle of the disk, in this case 45 degrees.
The jigsaw guide is adjustable in three axes, so you can use blades of different sizes - from 100 to 180mm, thereby obtaining a maximum cutting height of 70mm.
Next I make a handle drawer, and for this I use a router, which I use to create a rounded chamfer. There is also a guide for the miter gauge, and an offset bearing for routing curved lines will also be useful. The router itself can be tilted at an angle of 45°.
The box is ready and it is in its designated place.
The tongue-and-groove connection is possible on this brain table do it in two ways. First, using a jigsaw, an additional strip and a miter gauge.
And secondly, on a circular table, using a special conductor.
With the largest size disk that can be installed on homemade(235mm), you can get a maximum cut of 70mm. There are small adjustment bolts on the guide to reduce the tilt and, if necessary, even to lock it.
To connect the parts, I chose the second method; for this, some parts should be placed on one side of the jig, and others on the other.
And this is what happened, we move on to the router, this time we use a clamping device to make a groove in the base. To do this, you need to raise the circular saw and set the router at an angle of 45°.
Step 1: Cutting the parts
The creation of a multifunctional table begins - homemade products from cutting all the parts and numbering them.
Next, to obtain a handle slot, 4 corner holes are drilled and “finished” with a jigsaw.
Then holes are drilled the same size as the diameter and thickness of the opening system washer. The holes are countersunk.
After this, a place is prepared for installing power and emergency shutdown buttons. Then, using dowels and 50mm self-tapping screws, the body is assembled brain table.
If desired, the body parts are treated with varnish, so craft It will look better and last longer.
Having prepared the body, the 3 upper parts are assembled. To do this, parts of the folding frames are cut and the necessary holes are drilled into them. The hole for the tube is drilled of such a diameter that the tube can rotate freely in it, since it is the axis of rotation of the hinged lids.
Then a cavity is selected for the circular saw. I did this using my 3D router; in the absence of something similar, this can be done with a regular router using the appropriate jigs and guides.
On the front side of the circular table cover, a cavity is selected for a quick-release panel, by removing which you can change the angle of inclination of the disk.
The panel itself can be used to adjust the milling depth of the cavity.
Having installed the circular saw in the intended cavity, holes for its fastening are marked. A 3D milling machine is well suited for this because drilling machine These holes cannot be drilled due to its limited working surface.
Step 2: Start Build
At this stage, the gradual assembly of a portable multifunctional machine for the workshop begins do-it-yourselfer.
The groove for the guide is marked and selected using a circular table. Two additional pieces of plywood will provide the necessary depth to securely attach the guide strip. Next, a strip with a self-adhesive tape measure applied to it is attached to the lid.
After this, a hole for the router is drilled. Then the tubes for the rotation axes are cut off and the frames of the hinged covers are mounted on the body. In accordance with the drawings, fixing supports are manufactured and installed.
The router cover is applied to the frame, aligned and secured with self-tapping screws through holes in the guide channel.
Then the jigsaw cover is prepared, a groove for this same jigsaw is selected in it. If a material with a non-sliding surface, such as melamine, is used for the cover, then the surface of this cover should be varnished, alternating with sanding.
Having done this, the parts of the vertical lift mechanism of the router are cut out and assembled, with the help of which the milling depth will be adjusted.
A hole of the same diameter, or a suitable one, is drilled into them as when creating the router cover. This holder brain milling machine can be made on a CNC machine or even ordered online.
The finished router holder is attached to a vertical lift, and now you can try it in action.
To mark the radius of the tilt grooves, ordinary hinges are temporarily attached to the vertical lift, and scraps of plywood are used to make revolving handles.
Step 3: Completing the Assembly
This stage of assembly homemade products I'll start with those details that I forgot about earlier. They will give stability to the lifting system.
First, the base parts are cut, I did this on my circular table, then they are assembled into a frame, which is attached to the bottom of the multifunctional body brain table. The height of this frame should be the same as the height of the existing wheels.
A latch is attached to the flaps of one of the hinged lids, and a lock is attached to the flaps of the other. This may be useful during transportation crafts and act as a preventive measure against theft of your instrument.
Socket for circular saw Connects via power button and emergency shutdown button. The extension cord is wound around special handles made for this purpose.
The quick release panels are made from opal methacrylate. They are placed in place, and the slot in the circular saw panel is carefully made by the saw itself. I used an accessory from an old router kit as a guide bearing.
This attachment will be useful when routing curved lines.
After this, the level checks the plane of the entire upper part crafts If the hinged covers do not lie in the plane of the central part, this can be easily corrected by adjusting the tilt of the fixing supports.
milling table for hand router
Next, the perpendicularity of the working parts of the tools and the plane of the table is checked. To check the router, a tube is fixed in it, along which the perpendicularity of the router axis and the table plane is checked, and the parallelism of the guide channel and the circular disk is checked. And finally, the perpendicularity of the jigsaw blade is checked.
After this, the table covers are folded to check whether they interfere brain tools each other.
Step 4: Useful Tools
This step talks about making some useful accessories for the table - homemade products.
First of all, the parts of the slide are cut, then a groove is selected for the guide slider. After this, the two plywood parts are fastened together with screws, and the positions of the screws should be chosen so that they do not interfere with the subsequent modification of this part.
Then a measuring tape is glued onto it in a specially prepared groove, and this accessory for brain table varnished, alternating with sanding, thereby creating the necessary smooth surface on this device.
The slides are assembled and placed on the multifunctional homemade and the excess is cut off from them and a middle cut is cut, and then a measuring tape is glued on.
The guide slider is unscrewed from the sled and a groove is made for the tongue and groove conductor. Same as my other circular table.
The channel slider is adjusted so that the roll between the bolts disappears. The slider itself can be stopped if necessary, simply by twisting the bot to the maximum.
Dowels glued into this fixing system are used as axle guides. At the end of the rack assembly, the locking system handle is made, and then the entire rack is tested in action.
Additionally, a dust collector for the router is installed on the stand, and on the side brain-resistant Threaded bushings for the pressure panel are screwed into the dust collector.
Having done this, the parallelism of the stand and the circular disk is checked, then a measuring tape is glued into the groove of the side wall.
Having finished this, the parts of the tongue and groove jig are cut, which are then glued and cleaned.
Step 5: A few more useful gadgets
This is the last video of this brain guides, and its first part shows how to make a corner stop (to create it, you can paste a printed template or use a ruler). The stop blank can already be cut on the most multifunctional machine.
The thread in the guide slider is inch, but if you need a metric one, you will have to use a tap.
It is definitely worth temporarily screwing the stop blank to the guide to make sure that the turning radius is correct.
Then the parts of the tenon conductor are cut, and in order to reduce friction it is necessary to slightly increase the thickness of the conductor fastening.
To make a pressure panel, a template is glued onto a plywood blank, and the adjustment grooves for this panel are selected using a router brain machine. IN in the right places Covers with a router are mounted with threaded bushings.
First, a bearing adjustment system is assembled to avoid wear of the plywood using a metal plate.
One of the holes is made large in order to adjust the bearings.
The same thing is done with plywood.
After this, the height adjustment system is mechanized, and now the structure can move in three axes, thereby obtaining the required position.
Finally, the finished saw guide can be tested in action, and it is important to hold the board being sawed with both hands so that it fits firmly enough to the plane of the table.
About the compact multifunctional homemade That's it, good luck in your creativity!
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