Peach: planting and care, pruning and grafting. Peach - growing and care Peach tree at home

Peach (lat. Prunus persica)- a plant of the Almond subgenus of the Rosaceae family. There is no reliable information about where the plant came from. In any case, it is known that David's peach, which is a wild-growing form of the common peach, grows in the nature of Northern China. In cultivation, the tree is cultivated in warm regions, and China is the champion in the industrial cultivation of peaches.

Planting and caring for peach

Landing: in areas with a cool climate - in spring (before the start of sap flow), in warm regions - both in spring and autumn.
Bloom: from mid-April.
Lighting: bright sun.
Soil: any well drained.
Watering: early varieties– on average 2-3 times per season, later – 5-6 times. Water consumption is from 2 to 5 buckets for each tree, depending on age and size. Water peaches early in the morning or evening. The first watering is at the end of May or early June, the second - in the first half of July, the third - in the first half of August. The soil is soaked with water to a depth of 60-70 cm. For the quality of the fruit, watering 3-4 weeks before harvesting is important: depending on the age of the tree, water consumption is from 30 to 60 liters. Next watering- only after harvest. The last watering is pre-winter, October. Water consumption for moisture-recharging irrigation is 90-100 liters per m² of tree trunk circle.
Feeding: poor soils are fed annually with both organic matter and mineral fertilizers; fertile soils are added once every 2-3 years. organic fertilizers.
Trimming: sanitary and formative - in the spring, between the beginning of sap flow and peach blossom. In autumn - pruning for sanitary purposes.
Reproduction: seeds, grafting, cuttings.
Pests: plum and oriental codling moths, aphids, scale insects, striped moths, flower beetle weevils, fruit and leafminer moths, spider mites.
Diseases: klyasterosporiosis, moniliosis, powdery mildew, leaf curl, coccomycosis, scab, fruit and gray rot, cytosporosis, milky sheen, gum bleeding, verticillium, homoz (fungal burn).

Peach tree - description

The peach root system is located close to the surface - only at a depth of 20-50 cm. Peach trees reach an average height of 4 m, and their crown can grow up to 6 m in diameter. Peach leaves are lanceolate, finely toothed along the edges. The flowers are pink or red, almost sessile, open in mid or late April, before the leaves appear on the peach, so from a distance the blooming peach resembles sakura. The peach fruit, usually velvety, can be flat, round or elongated elliptical with a groove on one side. The fruit stone is wrinkled, grooved, with a pointed apex.

Peach trees begin to bear fruit 2-4 years after planting; the fruiting period lasts 10-15 years. Peach, like mangoes and oranges, is one of the most delicious fruits with the finest aroma and refreshing taste. It is related to such fruit trees as almond, from which it differs only in fruits, apricot, serviceberry, quince, chokeberry, plum, rowan, hawthorn, rose hip, cotoneaster, apple tree, pear and medlar.

We offer you material we have carefully selected on how to grow a peach in your garden and how to properly care for a peach, how to treat a peach against pests and diseases, how to fertilize a peach throughout the season and how to plant a peach if you have a desire to start propagating it .

Planting a peach

When to plant a peach

The time for planting peach depends on the climatic conditions of your area. The further south you live, the more advisable it will be to plant peach trees in the fall. In the northern regions, it is better to plant seedlings in open ground in the spring, so that during the spring-summer season the trees will take root well and have time to grow. The conditions of the middle zone make it possible to plant both spring and autumn peach, but it is better to give preference to the latter.

For peach, choose an elevated position protected from the wind, but sunny place on the south side of the site. Large trees, shrubs and buildings should not block the seedling from the sun. Place the peach at least 3 m away from other plants. Do not plant peach where strawberries, alfalfa, clover, nightshades and melons, because he may get verticillium. After the listed plants, peach can be planted on the site only after 3-4 years.

Planting peach in spring

The pit for the seedling must be dug in advance - the longer the time passes from digging the pit to planting the tree, the better the quality of the soil. If you are planning to plant a peach in the spring, prepare a hole for it in the fall, six months before planting. The depth of the pit depends on the size of the root system, but, as a rule, a hole for a seedling is dug with a diameter of 50-70 cm, and its depth should be the same. A strong long peg is driven into the bottom of the hole in the center of such a length that it protrudes at least half a meter above the surface level.

If the soil on the site is poor, the top layer of soil removed from the pit is mixed with rotted manure, humus or compost in an amount of 5-8 kg, 200-300 g of wood ash, 50 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium chloride are added and everything is mixed thoroughly. IN fertile soil Only mineral fertilizers and ash are added. The soil with additives is poured into a heap in the center of the hole.

When purchasing seedlings, you should ask how adapted they are to the area in which they will grow. Make sure that the area where the scion meets the rootstock is smooth and free of ripples. The peach bark and its root system should also be healthy - pinch off a piece of the bark: its underside should be green, not brown. Carefully inspect the roots of the seedling and make sure that they are not overdried or rotting. Take root best in open ground annual seedlings peach

The tree is placed on a mound in the center of the hole, its roots are carefully straightened and the pit is filled with soil. As a result, the grafting site should be several centimeters above the surface of the site. The soil is trampled down from the edges of the trunk circle to the trunk, then the seedling is watered with two or three buckets of water. When the water is absorbed and the earth settles, tie the tree to a peg and mulch the tree trunk circle with a layer of manure 8-10 cm thick. Make sure that the mulch does not come into contact with the trunk of the seedling.

Planting peach in autumn

The hole for a seedling the day before autumn planting They dig up at least 2-3 weeks in advance, but in the fall only ash and mineral fertilizers are mixed with the soil. Fertilize the soil in the same way as during spring planting, pour in a heap in the center of the hole around the peg. Peach is planted in the fall in the same way as in spring, but after planting and watering the seedling, when the soil is dry, the tree is hilled to a height of 20-30 cm, and on the eve of the onset of cold weather, the peach trunk is wrapped in burlap, making holes in it on the south side for ventilation.

Peach care

Peach care in spring

Peach care begins in mid-April: the first procedure is to treat the tree along the swelling buds from codling moths, aphids and other pests. Then you will have to treat the peach with a three percent Bordeaux mixture for fungi. The pink bud is pruned for replacement and treated against fungi with preparations that replace Bordeaux mixture, since during the active growing season it is impossible to spray the peach with copper-containing preparations.

After flowering, a combined treatment of trees against pests and diseases is carried out.

If the winter was snowless and the spring was dry, do not forget to water the peach in May.

Summer peach care

After the excess ovary falls off the tree, distribute the load of fruits on the tree: on each fruit-bearing shoot, leave so many fruits that there is one ovary per 8-10 cm of length, remove the remaining fruits. Monitor the condition of the soil in the tree trunk circle - loosen the soil and remove weeds. Peach needs watering in summer, especially when the heat sets in, but wait until the pit hardens first, otherwise the fruit will begin to crack. To avoid losing the harvest, treat the tree against diseases and pests.

Before harvesting the fruits, it is advisable to carry out 2-3 foliar feeding peach with potassium fertilizers to increase sugar in the fruit, which can be combined with treatment against pests and powdery mildew. No later than a month before harvesting, water the peach - this will increase the size of the fruit by a third.

Caring for peach in autumn

In August and September, peach lays and forms flower buds, and their winter hardiness directly depends on the amount of moisture in the ground, which is why moisture-recharging watering of peach, which is carried out during these periods, is so important.

If you notice that your tree is often affected by fungal diseases, as a preventive measure in October, when the leaves begin to change color, treat the peach with a three percent Bordeaux mixture, and after leaf fall - with a one percent solution of copper sulfate or a seven percent urea solution.

In the fall, organic and mineral fertilizers are embedded in the soil around the tree trunk, which should be enough for the tree until spring.

Watering a peach

The amount of watering during the growing season depends on weather conditions, but on average, early peach varieties are watered 2-3 times per season, and late ones - 5-6 times. During a session, from 2 to 5 buckets of water are consumed per tree. Watering is carried out in the early morning or evening. The first time the peach is watered is at the beginning of June, and if the winter was without snow and the spring without rain, then it is better to water the plant at the end of May. The next watering is carried out in the first half of July, and the third - in the first half of August. Try to wet the soil to the depth of the roots - 60-70 cm.

It is very important to irrigate 3-4 weeks before harvesting, which will allow the fruits to gain weight. The amount of water for each m² of tree trunk circle is 30-60 liters, depending on the age of the tree. After this, the peach cannot be watered until harvest, otherwise its fruits will become watery and lose their sugar content.

Equally important is winter watering of peach, which saturates the soil with moisture and increases the winter hardiness of the tree. Water consumption for moisture-recharging irrigation is 90-100 liters per m² of tree trunk circle.

Feeding peach

Growing peach requires annual application of fertilizers to the soil. The amount and composition of fertilizing depends on the quality of the soil. For example, poor soils require annual application and mineral fertilizers, and organic matter, and organic fertilizers are applied to fertile soils once every 2-3 years. In conditions where you have to water the peach frequently, the amount of fertilizer applied is increased, since they are washed out during watering.

First spring feeding For peach buds that are still dormant, the tree can be treated with a seven percent urea solution: this measure will provide the plant with nitrogen and, in addition, will destroy pathogens and insect pests that have overwintered in cracks in the bark and in the top layer of soil. Before you process the peach, make sure the buds on the trees are still dormant, otherwise the urea will burn them. If you are late and the buds have begun to bloom, instead of treating the leaves, dig up the soil in the trunk circles of the peaches while simultaneously applying 70 g of ammonium nitrate and 50 g of urea per m² of the trunk circle under the young trees. The older the tree, the more fertilizer is needed per unit area: every 2-3 years, the dose of each fertilizer increases by 15-20 g.

In summer, it is better to apply fertilizers using the foliar method. How to feed peach during the period of fruit growth and ripening? The crop responds well to the following fertilizer composition: 100-150 g of aqueous superphosphate extract, 50-60 g of ammonium nitrate or 30-50 g of urea, 50-80 g of ammonium sulfate and 30-60 g of calcium chloride or 50-70 g of potassium sulfate, 15 g of manganese and 10 g of borax, dissolved in 10 liters of water. If the peach fruits are already ripe, exclude the nitrogen component and borax from this composition.

To achieve a more intense color and increase the sugar content of the fruits, during their ripening phase, foliar feeding of the peach is carried out with a solution of 30 g of potassium salt or potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water.

In the fall, when digging the trunk circle, 40 g of superphosphate and 50 g of calcium chloride per m² are added to the soil. Once every 2-3 years in the fall, organic fertilizers are added to the soil - humus or compost, but instead you can grow green manure - oilseed radish, rapeseed, lupine or rape - in the inter-rows.

Wintering peach

Peach is a heat-loving plant, and it needs to be covered for the winter: two pegs the height of the tree trunk are driven into the ground next to the trunk and the trunk and pegs are wrapped in a sugar bag. You can make a cardboard box around the trunk and wrap it in film. If your winters are not too cold, cover the peach trunk with soil to a height of 50-60 cm. The tree trunk circle is mulched for the winter with a layer of peat or humus 10-15 cm thick.

Peach pruning

When to trim a peach

The best time for pruning a peach is the time interval of two to three weeks between the beginning of sap flow and the beginning of flowering. The plant will most easily tolerate pruning from the beginning of the appearance of pink buds until they begin to open - this is a period of time of about a week. At this time, the risk of peach infection with cytosporosis is minimal. After harvesting, sanitary pruning of the tree should be carried out.

The formation of a peach must begin from the first year of growth, and the formation will be completed only after four years. How necessary is formative pruning of the crown? Firstly, it regulates the balance between the crown and root system of the plant. Secondly, it allows you to maintain the health of the tree in good condition. Thirdly, it promotes earlier entry of peach into fruiting, and also provides you with convenience when harvesting.

How to trim a peach

Peaches of different ages cut differently. The crown of the tree is usually shaped like a bowl. How is this done? In the year of planting, the seedling conductor is cut at a height of 60-70 cm. The peach branch located above all should have a wide angle of departure. Select two more growths just below, located at the same angle, and trim all three branches to 10 cm on the outer buds. Cut off the remaining shoots located on the trunk and guide immediately after the buds open.

On skeletal branches of trees of the second year of life, it is important to maintain an optimal slope. The continuation growths are shortened to 60-70 cm. Strong upper and lower growths are removed, the side ones are thinned out, and those that remain are shortened by two buds.

On the upper skeletal branch of trees of the third year of life, two powerful branches of the second order are selected and cut to 60 cm from the bifurcation of the main branch. The part of the conductor that rises above the upper branch is cut off. The upper and lower sides of the skeletal branches are freed from powerful growths. Annual growths that have reached 80 cm in length are cut into two buds to form a fruiting unit. The lower shoot is pruned to 50 cm. On the branches that were shortened by two buds last year, the growths growing upward are shortened for fruiting, and the lower shoots are shortened by two buds. Next year, fruit links will be formed from them.

In the fourth year of the peach’s life, two successful third-order branches are selected from the second-order branches of the skeletal branches and shortened by a third of the original length. On the branches of the second order, the formation of fruiting links is completed, and the growths on the branches of the third order are thinned out and some are cut short - into two buds, and the rest are left untouched in order to use them as non-permanent fruit-bearing branches.

On the fruit links of the first order, the non-fruit-bearing parts are removed. The branches of the lower growth that were cut short last year are cut into two buds located below. On the upper growths, to stimulate future fruiting, 7-8 groups of buds are removed.

Peach pruning in spring

The formative pruning that we told you about is carried out in the spring in order to give the crown a cup-shaped shape that is convenient for peach care and harvesting. But peach pruning also serves sanitary purposes: after spring, frozen, diseased or damaged branches may be found on the tree that need to be removed. After pruning, treat the cuts with garden varnish.

Peach pruning in autumn

In the fall, trees are prepared for winter: old, diseased, dry and damaged branches during fruit harvesting are carefully pruned, as well as those that grow inside the crown, thickening it: the tree should expend strength and nutrition only on healthy branches and shoots that will be used next year will give a harvest. Formative pruning is not done in the fall; there will be time for this in the spring.

In summer, fruit-bearing peach trees are not pruned unnecessarily.

Peach propagation

How to propagate peach

Peaches are propagated by seed, grafting and cuttings. It is possible to grow your own rooted peaches from cuttings only in gardening conditions, since it is very difficult for an amateur to create the conditions necessary for rooting of cuttings.

Growing a peach from seed has some disadvantages: the plant grown from the seed may not inherit the characteristics of the parent tree. In addition, finding good seed material is not so easy: stores and supermarkets usually sell peaches from the pits of which it is difficult to grow anything, and market peaches do not always meet the necessary requirements. It is best to take seed from the owners of healthy zoned peach trees, and then all that remains is to pedantically follow the instructions developed by specialists for growing peach from stone.

There are also disadvantages to the method of peach propagation by grafting. Firstly, it is not so easy to acquire the right rootstock, and if you grow it yourself, it will take at least a year. Secondly, it is necessary that there is compatibility between the tissues of the scion and the rootstock, otherwise they will not grow together. Thirdly, you need to carefully follow the instructions, otherwise the slightest mistake can ruin all your efforts.

Peach propagation by seeds

Seed propagation of peach, in addition to disadvantages, also has undoubted advantages:

self-rooted seedlings grown from stones live twice as long as grafted peaches;
they are more resistant to drought, cold, gum disease and other diseases;
in some cases, self-rooted seedlings are superior to their parents in many characteristics.

If you are eager to grow a peach from a seed, we are ready to tell you how to do it correctly.

Find a site for future peaches located no closer than 3-4 m from any mature trees, large bushes and premises. The place should be sunny, but at the same time protected from cold winter winds. It is best to plant in October or November, so that the seeds in the ground undergo natural stratification over the winter.

Before planting, the seeds are not soaked; on the contrary, they are dried in the shade and, after carefully opening them, the kernels are removed from them. A trench is dug on the site, filled with fertile loose soil, into which peach seeds are planted every 25-30 cm to a depth of 5-6 cm. After planting, the seeds are planted and watered. Don't panic if you don't see shoots for a long time: first, a root will develop from the seed, and only then a sprout will appear. That is why the soil in the trench is filled with soft and loose soil. At first, the area is watered daily.

When the seedlings appear in the spring, they are fed with a weak solution of humus, and the seedlings are also treated on the leaves with Ridomil or Tiovit - also of weak concentration.

Peach seedlings are replanted three times. The first time you need to dig up a peach along with a lump of earth when it has formed 8-10 leaves. The central root of the seedling is carefully cut 6 cm below the root collar, then the seedling is planted in its original place, after which the soil around it is compacted and watered.

The second transplant is carried out when the peaches reach a height of 90-100 cm. This is done in the spring, before sap flow begins: the seedlings are dug around the perimeter at a distance of 25-30 cm from the stems and, having taken them out along with the earthen lump, they are transplanted, changing places with each other.

The third time the peaches, when they have grown and become strong enough, are transplanted to a permanent place.

Peach grafting

Peach is a crop with limited winter hardiness, but it tolerates drought well - this is one of its indisputable advantages. You can graft a varietal peach using an apricot, plum, almond or quince seedling as a rootstock. The grafting technology for any of these rootstocks is the same: you should prepare a cutting of the variety you need in advance and graft it onto a one-year or two-year-old seedling of one of the listed crops.

Cuttings are prepared at the end of autumn before the onset of frosts, stored in a cellar or in the garden, covered warm material, and filling it with a layer on top sawdust 20 cm thick. As soon as it gets warmer, the cuttings are transferred to the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator. Vaccination is carried out in the spring, after the start of sap flow.

As a rootstock, you can use both peach seedlings grown from seed and wild ones of the crops we have listed, the thickness of which is at least 1.5 cm. The rootstock is cut to the required height, checking that the bark is smooth and without buds. The methods of grafting, depending on whether the thickness of the scion matches the thickness of the rootstock, can be as follows: by bud, cutting or split.

Peach diseases

Diseases and pests of peach can greatly complicate life for both him and you. Peach diseases are countless - this is one of the shortcomings of the crop. Let's talk about those diseases that occur most often and are the most dangerous for the plant.

Clusterosporiasis is a most harmful fungal disease of peach that also affects nectarines. All ground organs of the tree suffer from this disease. Light brown spots with a crimson or dirty red border appear on the leaves; the tissue inside the spots dries out, dies and falls out, leaving holes, which is why cleasterosporiasis is often called hole spot. The bark of young shoots of annual seedlings becomes covered with orange varnished spots that spread along the fibers, the bark cracks, and gum is released from the cracks. The affected shoots die and the peach dries out.

Leaf curl. This is perhaps the most dangerous disease for peach, which most often occurs in conditions of a long and wet spring. The leaves of a diseased tree become covered with reddish swellings, their surface becomes uneven, wavy, they swell, and a white coating, the leaves turn brown and fall off. The shoots become bare, taking on the appearance of a lion's tail with leaves instead of a tassel at the end, they bend, thicken and turn yellow. If you do not fight the curl, the peach will begin to lag behind in development and eventually die.

Powdery mildew forms a white felt coating on the underside of leaves, the upper part of the current year's shoots and fruits. The shoots begin to lag in growth, become deformed, and partially die. The first symptoms of the disease appear from late April to mid-May, and the disease reaches its maximum development in the very heat - in mid-summer.

Moniliosis Stone fruit is a common disease that causes shoots and individual branches to dry out, dark spots to appear and grow on peach fruits, the flesh of the fruit becomes brown, rotten peaches wrinkle and dry out. Healthy fetus can become infected with moniliosis from a patient.

Peach processing

Treatment of peach for clasterosporiasis is carried out for the first time with copper oxychloride or the drug Meteor during the period of swelling of the buds, but it must be done before they begin to open. The following treatments are carried out before and after flowering with Horus or Topsin M in accordance with the instructions. In the spring, before flowering begins, it is necessary to cut off all affected branches and shoots, treating the sections with an eight percent solution of lime with the addition of a two percent solution of iron or copper sulfate, after which the sections must be covered with garden varnish.

If you determine that the peach is affected by curl, after harvesting, when the leaves begin to fall, treat the tree with copper oxychloride or Meteor. In early spring and when pink buds begin to appear, peach is treated with the same copper-containing preparations, which can be replaced with Horus or Skor with the addition of Delan. Diseased leaves and shoots are cut off and burned before sporulation begins.

To protect against powdery mildew, peach at the end of flowering is treated with Topaz, Topsin M, Skor, Vectra or Strobi. As preventive measures, spring and autumn pruning disease-affected shoots followed by burning them, collecting and destroying fallen leaves and fruits and digging up soil in tree trunk circles.

For moniliosis, the peach will have to be treated three times: with Horus before flowering, in the pink bud phase, with Topaz after flowering and Topsin two weeks after the second treatment. Areas damaged by the disease are cut off and destroyed.

In addition to the diseases described, peach may suffer from coccomycosis, scab, fruit or gray rot, cytosporosis, milky sheen, gum disease, verticillium, homoz or fungal burn.

Peach pests

Eastern And plum moth– butterflies small sizes, using peach to feed their offspring and as a place for wintering. Butterfly caterpillars eat young peach shoots, while adults feed on the seeds of its fruit. Insects spend the winter cold in cocoons in cracks in peach bark or under fallen leaves in the tree trunk.

Ways to fight. Treating the tree three times with insecticides such as Chlorophos, Metaphos, Karbofos or Durban will help you rid your peach of codling moths. The interval between sessions is 2 weeks.

Ways to fight. As long as there are not too many aphids, they can be removed mechanically by wiping the affected areas afterwards soap solution. But if you have noticed the appearance of aphids, and they have managed to breed, treat the peach with Karbofos, Actellik or any other similar preparation. The processing may need to be repeated. The interval between sessions is 10-14 days. The last treatment is carried out no later than 2-3 weeks before harvest.

Shchitovka damages all above-ground parts of the peach: a day after the pest attaches itself, red spots appear on the bark and fruits. Scale insects deplete the tree, colonizing skeletal branches, shoot tips and trunk. The tree on which scale insects settle, the bark cracks and dies, the foliage falls off prematurely, the growths dry out, the fruits become smaller and deformed.

Ways to fight. In the fight against scale insects, peach treatments with drugs such as Actellik, Aktara, Bankol, Inta-vir or Mospilan are effective in accordance with the instructions. The most famous folk remedies are pepper tincture or onion water, but they are ineffective.

Striped moth no less dangerous pest. Its caterpillars bite into buds and young shoots, eating away the core, causing the affected areas to dry out and die. Fruits damaged in the stem area bleed gum. One caterpillar can damage from 3 to 5 shoots.

Ways to fight. During bud break, treat the peach with Karbofos, Chlorophos or Zolon. Recognize and cut out damaged shoots in a timely manner and burn them.

Flower beetle weevils, fruit and leafminer moths, mites and other harmful insects can also be dangerous for peach.

Peach varieties

Peach subspecies

The Peach species is divided into several subspecies:

common peach– we gave its description at the beginning of the article;
peach (or almond) Potanin- a low-growing tree, reaching a height of 2 m, with reddish bark, large white or pink flowers and round fruits with an elongated stone, unsuitable for food. This variety of peach is found only in nature in China. Since the fruits of this subspecies do not represent nutritional value, it is not grown in culture;
David's peach- a tree that grows up to 3 m in height. The fruits of this subspecies are small, with a dry pericarp and slightly juicy, sweet and sour pulp, therefore David's peach is grown mainly for decorative purposes;
Gasoan peach grows wild in China. This is a medium-sized tree, 3-4 m high, it looks very impressive during flowering, when it is covered with small pink and white flowers. The fruits of this peach are low taste qualities small, round, yellowish in color, with hard flesh white. This subspecies serves as the basis for the development of valuable varieties of common peach, endowing them with its disease resistance and frost resistance;
peace peach– a wild-growing tall eastern subspecies, reaching a height of 8 m, with spherical fruits of low taste. It has no value for cultivation;
nectarine very similar to peach. Its main difference is its smooth, slippery skin. The color of nectarine can be yellow, white or yellow-red. The fruit pulp is juicy, yellow, not as sweet as a peach, but the seeds in the pits are just sweet, they can be used like almond kernels;
some scientists also distinguish it as a separate subspecies fig peach, or Fergana, which is a tree up to 5 m high with a wide spreading crown. This subspecies has nothing to do with figs. The fruits of the fig peach are round and flattened, with a depressed apex. The skin is slightly pubescent, dense, yellow with a greenish tint. The pulp is light yellow, fibrous, sweet and aromatic. The bone is small. The advantage of the variety is its resistance to freezing of buds and buds.

Peach varieties

Today there are many varieties of peaches, the fruits of which differ in shape, size, aroma, taste, color and texture of the skin and pulp.

Based on the type of fruit, peaches are divided into four classes:

real peaches are velvety fruits, the pulp of which is easily separated from the pit;
pavias are velvety fruits, the pulp of which does not separate from the seed;
nectarines are naked fruits, the pulp of which is easily separated from the stone;
Brugnons are naked fruits in which the flesh does not separate from the seed.

Based on the color of the fruit, peach varieties are divided into:

yellow (In Memory of Rodionov, Solnechny, Donetsk Yellow, Glo Haven and Bogun);
red (Suncrest, Harmony, Krasnodarets);
green (Juicy, Greasboro).

The best varieties of nectarine include Abundant, Pink Princess, Autumn Blush, Relines, Skif, Lola. And the best winter-hardy varieties of nectarine are Skif, Krasnodarets, Fodor, Lyubimets 1 and Lyubimets 2.

According to the ripening period, peach varieties are divided into early, mid-ripening and late.

Early peach varieties

To the best varieties of peach early maturation The following can be included:

Morettini– an ultra-early self-pollinating early-fruiting variety of Italian selection, which begins to bear fruit 2-3 years after planting. The yield of this variety is up to 30 kg per tree. The medium-sized fruits weighing up to 115 g are covered with a bright yellow, gently pubescent skin with a bright red blush in the form of spots and dots, occupying 60% of the surface of the fruit. The pulp is yellow-cream, aromatic, juicy, with delicate fibers. A medium-sized stone is difficult to separate from the pulp;
Velvety- medium height productive variety with medium and large fruits weighing up to 140 g, round in shape, bright yellow in color with a carmine blush that almost completely covers the surface. Fruit pubescence is weak, suede-like. Very juicy pulp of golden yellow color with delicate fibers of excellent taste. The small bone is difficult to separate from the pulp;
Kyiv early– early ripening, winter-hardy and high-yielding variety Ukrainian selection, undemanding to growing conditions. Round-elongated light yellow fruits of medium size weighing up to 100 g can sometimes be covered with a bright blush. The pulp of the fruit is greenish-white, juicy, tasty;
Redhaven– a frost- and curl-resistant variety with large fruits weighing up to 150 g, orange-yellow in color with red spots and specks. The pulp is yellow, tender, very aromatic. Unfortunately, trees of this variety are affected by fungi if agricultural practices are not followed;
Collins– winter-hardy and productive variety, resistant to powdery mildew and curl, with pubescent fruits weighing up to 150 g red-yellow color, sweet taste with pleasant sourness. This variety requires careful care - frequent feeding, watering and timely pruning.

In addition to those described, such varieties as Forest-Steppe Early, Juicy, Fluffy Early, Memory of Rodionov, Greensboro, Novoselovsky, May Flower, Arp, Early Rivers, Otechestvenny, Excellent, Red Bird Kling and others are popular.

Medium peach varieties

The most commonly grown mid-ripening peach varieties are:

Veteran– a winter-hardy, high-yielding variety of Canadian selection with round, slightly pubescent fruits weighing up to 130 g, yellow in color with a red blush covering a significant part of the surface. The pulp of the fruit is yellow, medium density, juicy, aromatic, sweet and sour. The stone is easily separated from the pulp. The variety is resistant to powdery mildew;
Ambassador of Peace- a winter-hardy, self-fertile, productive variety with very large fruits weighing up to 220 g of yellow-carmine color with dense yellow, juicy, fibrous pulp of pleasant taste, which is difficult to separate from the stone. Peaches of this variety ripen in mid-August;
nectarine Krasnodarets- a variety with small round fruits with a barely noticeable seam, weighing up to 50 g, yellow in color with a bright red blush, consisting of dots and stripes. The skin of the fruits of this variety is smooth, without pubescence. The pulp is yellow, juicy, tasty, with delicate fibers;
Soviet– a variety zoned for the southern regions of Ukraine with oval-blunted fruits weighing up to 170 g, slightly compressed from the sides. The skin is medium velvety, yellow with a carmine blush. The pulp is yellow, medium-fiber, very juicy and aromatic. The medium-sized stone is easily separated from the pulp;
Friendship- a winter-hardy variety, bred from Chinese material, with rounded fruits weighing from 140 to 250 g with a ribbed abdominal seam. The skin is tender and elastic, with barely noticeable pubescence, creamy yellow, with a blush of red dots and streaks. The pulp is creamy white, sweet and very juicy, easily separated from the stone.

Also of interest mid-season varieties peach White swan, Golden Jubilee, Champion, Dakota, Tuscan Kling, Double Mountain, New Harvest, Fine, Pineapple Nectarine, Salami and others.

Late peach varieties

There are not as many late varieties of peaches as early and mid-ripening ones, but for a heat-loving crop this is par for the course. The best of late varieties are considered:

Jaminat– a high-yielding variety with elongated fruits, slightly compressed from the sides, bright yellow in color with marbled redness. The flesh is bright orange, medium density, very juicy and sweet, with a barely noticeable sour taste. The bone is easily separated from the pulp;
Irganaysky late – frost-resistant variety with rounded fruits weighing up to 160 g. The skin is suede-like, bright yellow, with beautiful red spots. The pulp is yellow-orange, sweet, soft-fibrous. The small bone is easily separated from the pulp. The variety is not resistant to cluster blight and curl;
Kremlevsky- a productive variety, zoned for the Crimea and southern Ukraine, with round fruits weighing up to 200 g with yellow-orange skin and marbled carmine-burgundy blush, occupying a significant part of the surface. Skin with soft pubescence. Orange-yellow aromatic pulp of medium density and juiciness with a very pleasant taste is easily separated from a small seed;
Golden Moscow- a winter-hardy, high-yielding variety with fruits weighing up to 180 g with a bright yellow base color and a blurred red blush covering most of the fruit. The pubescence of the skin is weak and velvety. The pulp is yellow, aromatic, dense, medium juicy, comes off the seed well;
Tourist- a relatively winter-hardy variety, zoned for the Crimea and southern Ukraine, with round, wide-oval fruits weighing up to 200 g, greenish-cream in color with a blurred burgundy blush, occupying up to half the surface of the fruit. The pubescence of the skin is weak, suede-like. The greenish-white pulp is fibrous, medium density, juicy and aromatic, sweet taste with slight sourness. The large bone is easily separated from the pulp.

Their late varieties of peach good characterization They also have Aydinovsky oblong, Champion late, Khudistavsky late yellow, Geokchaysky late, Oktyabrsky and others.

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Many gardeners have at least once thought about how to grow a peach from a pit. To do this, there are many ways to breed these fruits.

Brief characteristics of varieties

The common peach is the result of hybridization of wild peach, almond, plum and cherry plum. The fruit is soft, juicy, sweet. The pulp can be whitish, yellow, or reddish. The peel is slightly velvety or smooth. A pit with slots, the taste is bitter. Used in fresh and for canning. The homeland of peach is China.

Popular types:

Velvety. The variety is early ripening. Ripens by the end of July. Grown in Ukraine and Crimea. Fruit weight – up to 135 grams. Color yellow. The bone is small and difficult to separate.
Gartvis is a larger fruit, weighing up to 170 g, velvety on the outside. The taste is juicy and sweet. The stone is medium, separated with small particles of pulp. The variety is high-yielding.
Starting. The variety is characterized by frost resistance, good yield and taste, and quickly begins to bear fruit. Peach is not susceptible to powdery mildew. Weight – 140 grams. Yellowish-red fruits with a velvety skin. The pulp is dense, the bone is easily separated from it.
Golden Jubilee. Large-fruited variety, fruit weight - 160 g, oval in shape and laterally compressed. The color is golden-reddish. The taste is pleasant, delicate, the flesh is elastic. The bone is quite large. The variety is winter-hardy and unpretentious.
Tourist. The fruits are large, weighing up to 200 grams, round in shape. The color is green-cream, half ruddy. The fruits have a rich aroma, the flesh is greenish-white, sweet, juicy. The total harvest volume from a tree is up to 40 kilograms. The variety is resistant to cold.

How to grow a peach from a pit

How to plant a peach seed

For planting you need to choose good seeds. It is necessary to determine the appropriate way to grow peaches.

Planting material

Seeds of foreign varieties, no matter how beautiful, will not be able to take root in our areas. Imported peaches are harvested in advance for the purpose of transportation. This is how the fruit retains its taste and nutrients. But the seed in these fruits is immature, and an attempt to germinate it will be unsuccessful. Also, southern fruits are not adapted to our climate. Peaches from such seeds simply will not take root due to lack of heat and sun.

Important! Choose peach pits from locally grown peach trees.

You can choose fruit from a seller in your region. He will give advice on care and how to grow a peach. You can try to germinate a peach borrowed from a neighbor. It is necessary to prepare several varieties for cultivation, since only a quarter of the seeds can germinate.

You definitely need to specify the type of peach. It is not recommended to take seeds from a grafted tree, as young seedlings will bear fruit worse. Species characteristics are well transmitted only from trees that were originally planted with their roots.

Variety selection

Peaches that grow locally will adapt more easily to the climate and will have enough natural conditions of this region. When trees are planted in open ground, they have time to acclimatize and do not die from frost.

Planting peaches

When choosing a variety, take into account the following plant parameters:

Early ripening fruit. In order to have fruits in the summer (July-early August), seeds of early varieties are chosen.
Resistant to temperature changes. If you plan to plant immediately, you need to choose a variety that tolerates cold well.
Bisexual plant. Peaches are mostly self-pollinating, so several trees are planted nearby.

Additional information . Early ripening varieties: Velvety, Startovy, Pobeditel; frost-resistant: Golden Jubilee, Tourist, Kyiv early; high-yielding: Gartvis, Nobles and others.

To extract the seeds, take fruits that are ripe, soft, large, not spoiled and not moldy. Remove the pulp, wash and dry for a while. The seeds must be intact and free from pests.

Choosing a germination method

The main methods of obtaining a seedling from a seed: stratification, warm way and seed extraction.

“Cold method” - stratification

Conditions are created like during a cold snap, the seeds begin to prepare to germinate. This way the sprouts sprout better. The shells soften and the seed swells. The embryo receives organic substances. Create a humid environment with access to air. A place in the refrigerator or basement is suitable.

Step by step process steps:

Take coarse clean sand. Peat can also be used. Pour into a container without a lid and moisten.
The bones are placed 8 cm deep in sand, covered with a bag with holes and placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.
Check the container if it needs to be moistened.
The sprout will begin to peck in about three months.
Seedlings are planted in pots with holes. Humus, peat and leaf soil are poured there.
Place it in a bright place.
At first the temperature should be about ten degrees.
After some time, they are brought into a room with a temperature of up to 20 degrees. Moisturize periodically.

If you do everything according to the instructions, the result will not be long in coming.

Humus as fertilizer

Seed extraction

The bones are broken and the contents are removed. The kernel germinates faster.

Stages:

Wash the seeds. Then dry. Split the seed and remove the kernel.
Place in warm water leave the seed for three days to swell. Change the water daily.
After the seeds have grown, they are planted in pots to a depth of 6 cm and they begin to grow.
Water and cover with glass or polyethylene. Remove and ventilate the covering every day to avoid the appearance of fungus and mold.
Remove the film when the peach sprouts appear.

Additional information. It is noticed that the seedlings reach a height of 50 cm after three months.

Warm way

There are still ways to germinate a seed. The peach pit is planted in a pot of soil. They wait several months for germination.

Disembarkation stages:

The bone is stored in the refrigerator for about 10 days (not long-term stratification).
After a while, remove the seed and place it in a growth stimulator for 3 hours.
The seed is planted at a depth of eight centimeters in moist soil.
Cover the pots with a bag or glass. Ventilate and wipe down every day.
Planting material is placed on a window where there is a lot of light. Water when required.
Sprouts should appear in three months. The film is removed and the pots are moved to a windless place and where there is no direct sunlight.

The method is the simplest, but time-consuming. There is no guarantee that the seeds will germinate.

Caring for young shoots

To prevent young seedlings from dying, they need to be properly cared for.

Principles of care:

Soil selection. Make a mixture of one part peat, humus, sand and two parts leaf soil.
Providing adequate lighting. If there is not enough sun, LED phytolamps are used. They provide enough light and accelerate growth.
Regular watering. Water less when the fruits are ripe and the tree goes into a dormant state.
Maintaining optimal temperature. In winter – plus 2-4 degrees, in spring – 10-15 during flowering, then – up to 25.

Important! The tree needs to have periods of rest. Reduce watering, reduce lighting, the temperature should be four degrees. After the kidneys awaken, all procedures are resumed.

Fertilizer application. Starting in March, they begin to fertilize once every two weeks. They do this until autumn. From organic matter, settled humus is used.
Transplanting into large pots. This is done at the beginning of spring before the flowers bloom or at the beginning of autumn.
Trimming. When the main trunk is seventy centimeters, pruning begins. Form a crown.

The fruits will develop on the side branches, so try to prevent the tree from growing upward. Already next spring all pruning is carried out. Vigorous seedlings are pruned annually.

By following all the rules, you can grow good trees.

How to plant a tree in open ground

You can grow a peach in your garden plot with a veranda, greenhouse or winter garden. If all planting rules are followed, the seedling can grow one and a half meters.

Planting a peach seedling

It should be planted in March of next year or early September. When there are a lot of trees, a distance of up to 4 meters is left between them. The same number retreat from other obstacles. Choose a place with enough light and no draft.

Fertilizers are applied before cultivation. Dig a hole one meter deep. Add fertilizer and mix well. They plant a tree and compact it. Water around the trunk. Cover with mulch or rotted humus.

The first three years require special care for the young seedling, since it is not yet adapted to climatic conditions. The tree is wrapped up for the winter non-woven material, the trunk is wrapped in glass wool, and the ground is covered with mulch.

Important! To prevent pests from attacking the tree, you need to regularly trim damaged branches and do preventive spraying.

Growing a tree from a seed is not difficult. It's just a long process. At proper care In just two years you can get a harvest. The tree bears fruit for up to twelve years.

You can try to grow peaches from stones not only in the southern regions, but also in central Russia and Siberia. Peaches are well grown in the country and in private homes.

It has always been believed that the peach tree, its spring blossoms and bountiful harvest– a privilege of the southernmost regions of the country. Since the middle of the last century, breeders and hobbyists have been promoting the culture into the middle zone. Peach can displace apricots in country gardens, because it is more resistant to return frosts, and the seedling from the seed inherits the maternal qualities. Fifty lovers of the Moscow region have been cultivating peach in bush form for more than 10 years.

Description of the peach tree

Garden varieties come from the common peach, a bush or single-stem form. The height of the tree can reach 9 meters, but spreading trees of 3-4 meters are more common. The peach root system is superficial, located in the fertile layer up to 70 cm. Peaches love warmth, light and abundant watering. The tree bears fruit for 20 years, starting from the second year after rooting.

The peach tree is a cross-pollinated species. Several varieties growing nearby will increase the fruiting of each, especially if you create a fruit conveyor from July to September, collecting specimens different periods maturation. The keeping quality of peaches is low.

Peach trees cannot be called frost-resistant. They lose part of their roots during winter frosts -25 0, if they last more than three days. The roots will withstand severe frost of 30-35 degrees for 24 hours. A short dormant period awakens the tree during winter thaws that occur in winter.

The tender peach is difficult to endure wintering. The crown cannot withstand frosts of -20 0 without shelter, and fruit buds and last year's growth die. The consolation is that the peach tree has a great self-healing ability and within a year the frozen tree will bloom again.

Peach agricultural technology for each climate zone

It is customary to grow peach trees in climate zones with mild climates. At the same time, they form a cup-shaped crown of trees, penetrated by the rays of the sun, located at a distance of at least 3 meters.

For areas with cold winters, the bush form and thickened plantings are more suitable. Here fruit links are formed from the lower shoots. Low-lying branches can be easily covered in winter, ensuring the safety of fruit buds.

You should purchase only seedlings of zoned and recommended varieties of peaches. Gardeners get good results by growing a tree from a local variety of peach seeds.

Peach care is year-round and includes techniques that allow you to create conditions for long-term annual fruiting. Therefore, peach agricultural technology in the Caucasus and Moscow region includes the same operations, but they are performed using different technologies:

planting dates and varieties;
formation of a young and fruit-bearing tree;
watering and fertilizing;
protection from pests and;
preparation for wintering and spring awakening of the tree.

Each of these activities is based on practical techniques that help a demanding tree survive in hostile conditions.

How to grow a fruit-bearing peach tree in the Moscow region

Research conducted by scientists from the Botanical Garden, who studied the experience of amateur gardeners in the Moscow region in growing peaches, allowed us to draw some conclusions:

Seedlings grown from seeds of local varieties retain their maternal qualities if taken from own-rooted peach. Seedlings from rootstocks are sterile.
Own-rooted peaches exhibit greater resistance to local conditions.
It is proposed to form fruit tree so as to give a bush shape, leaving mainly young growth.
Trees need to be planted so that they can be covered in the middle of winter. Create a screen from the north wind even in summer.
Use seedlings grafted onto almonds and cherry plums. Apricot Jardel is an unsuccessful rootstock for peach.

How to care for a peach tree? An example of proper agricultural technology for the middle zone is the garden of the Kostetsky lover. The harvest from each of 20 peaches in 2011 amounted to 30 kg per tree. He obtained such results by adapting to the needs of southerners for 20 years.

Recommendations for those interested in growing peaches in the Moscow region:

Planting several varieties of seedlings with a distance between holes of 3x4 meters.
Spring cutting out dry, weak, non-fruiting branches. After flowering, thinning is required, removing excess ovary, then the fruits reach 150-200 g in weight.
Protection – 4 times in spring spraying 1% copper sulfate against leaf curl, hole spotting.

The gardener fertilizes the plants all year round. After a year, 3 kg/sq.m. crumbles. m of plot area with humus in a mixture and potassium salt for the entire area of the garden in the fall. Fertilize with liquid organic matter annually in early spring. In winter, more than half a bucket of wood ash is poured into each hole. In the spring, when the buds swell, 300 g of complex fertilizer is applied to the tree trunk circle and filled with 5-6 buckets of water. After flowering, liquid 10% organic matter is added to the tree trunk circle in the amount of 3-4 buckets. In August, fertilizing is repeated with the addition of half a glass of superphosphate to the bucket.

In the fall, when the leaves fall, each tree receives another 10 buckets of water. Then the earth is mulched with humus. There is always space left near the trunk to prevent diaper rash.

Obtaining peach seedlings from pits

If you take a seed from your own rooted local peach variety, it will impart to the seedling resistance to climatic conditions, the size and taste of the mother fruit. How to grow a peach from a pit? Can be grown at home, in a pot. To do this, you need to keep the seed in water for 4 days, then remove it, split the seed, and plant the kernel in a pot.

For spring planting of peaches, it is necessary to carry out artificial stratification in winter. In a cool place, the stone is stored all winter in damp sand. In the spring, the seed will burst and a seedling will appear; it needs to be placed in a tub.

In the fall, you can spread the seeds into well-prepared soil at a distance of 10 cm. In the spring they will sprout, by the fall they will reach a height of 1.5 m and give off side branches. Next, they are seated in prepared planting pits.

In autumn, young plants are planted without cutting off the top branches, but the roots are shortened slightly. In spring, on the contrary, they pinch off the tops, beginning the formation of the tree.

Spring is the most important period in peach care.

Nature is awakening. It is at this time that the gardener begins to struggle to protect the peach from pests and diseases, and to form the future harvest.

Caring for peach in the spring involves timely releasing the branches and roots from the protective cover so as not to create diaper rash on the trunk. At the same time, protective measures should be carried out and fertilizing should be carried out in accordance with the schedule. As soon as the flower buds begin to swell, within 3 weeks it is time for the gardener to form a crown. The event is responsible, requiring practical skills and well-sharpened tools. How to properly prune peaches in spring, watch the video for beginners:

The main goals of spring pruning:

rid the tree of fattening branches;
provide access to sunlight for fruiting shoots;
remove old branches that already have few fruitful shoots.

It must be remembered that pruning is an operation during which the tree can be weakened. It should be as gentle as possible. You cannot immediately cover the wet cut with garden varnish after pruning. You can apply a protective layer after 3-4 days to avoid gum formation.

Only a well-groomed, strong tree can decorate a garden and bear delicious, aromatic fruits.

Grow a tree from a seed? Such thoughts come to everyone who likes to work in a garden or greenhouse from time to time. Especially if you hold a fragrant, juicy peach with tender flesh in your hands.

And if people have learned to grow lemons and pomegranates at home, then getting a peach tree is not difficult at all.

To do this, you need to be patient and follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners.

Is it possible and how to properly grow a peach from a pit?

Choosing planting material

High-quality planting material is the key to success. Turkish or Spanish peaches, no matter how beautiful and tasty they are, are not suitable for planting in our latitudes.

Everyone knows that imported peaches are removed from the trees long before biological maturity. This is the right approach, because when the fruit reaches technical ripeness, it acquires a delicate taste, retains nutrients and tolerates transportation well over long distances.

But the seeds of such fruits do not ripen, and therefore you should not waste your time and effort on germinating them.

Besides, southern varieties will not survive in our climate, because they are used to more comfortable conditions. Even if the seeds sprout, the seedlings themselves will die without receiving the required amount. sunlight and warmth.

You need to choose peaches for pitting from zoned varieties, not from a grafted tree.

If you have already decided to plant a peach, stroll through the market looking for local fruits. The seller, who has grown his product with his own hands, will be happy to tell you how to care for the seedling in order to achieve fruiting.

It’s great if your neighbor in the country shares his harvest. In any case, prepare a few seeds. The germination rate of peach seeds is about 25%; some seedlings will die during cultivation, so the more seeds you collect, the better.

Be sure to ask what tree the peaches came from. Do not take fruits from a grafted tree., because the characteristics of the variety when grown are unlikely to match those of the mother.

Only peaches from own-rooted trees provide planting material that can preserve species characteristics.

Growing a peach from a pit is as easy as shelling pears:

Choosing a variety

Zoned varieties will perform better in the local climate, being content with the amount of heat and lighting that the nature of a particular region can provide them.

Even if you decide to plant seedlings in open ground, with proper care they will not be afraid of frost.

When choosing a peach variety, pay attention to the main characteristics.

Winter hardiness. If you plan to transplant a seedling into open ground, choose varieties with good winter hardiness and unpretentiousness to growing conditions.

Self-pollination. Many varieties are self-pollinating. But if you want to receive bountiful harvest, plant at least 3-4 peaches nearby, which will subsequently bear fruit.

Early ripeness– for successful fruiting in summer, it is recommended to plant early ripening varieties (July-first half of August).

The most popular early ripening peaches are: Early Rivers, Winner, Early Minion. The varieties Amsden and Kyiv Rannii have good winter hardiness, and the varieties Nectarine White, Nectarine Krasnodarsky, Redhaven and Nobles have high yields.

To remove the seeds, prepare large, ripe, soft fruits with no signs of damage, rot or mold. Remove the pulp from the seeds, rinse thoroughly under running warm water and dry. Select seeds without traces of pests or cracking.

Choosing a growing method

Gardeners use three methods to grow peach trees from pits.

Stratification, or “cold method”. An imitation of cold natural conditions is created so that the seeds are prepared for germination and germinate better.

During stratification, the shells soften, the seeds swell, complex organic substances turn into simple ones and are absorbed by the seed embryo.

Extracting seeds. « Fast way”, which involves splitting the seed and extracting the kernel. After removing the seeds from the seed, seedlings appear much earlier than with stratification.

Warm way. You can germinate seeds in pots with room temperature and natural light.

Gardeners use three methods to grow peach trees from pits: cold - stratification, warm and from extracted seeds

Cold method, or stratification, at home

For successful stratification it is necessary to create seeds wet conditions at low positive temperatures and provide air access. For these purposes, a compartment for storing vegetables in the refrigerator or basement is suitable.

Stratify the seeds as follows:

Prepare a small container without a lid filled with damp sand or peat. Use coarse-grained sand, screened from foreign particles and thoroughly washed.
Place the seeds in the sand to a depth of 6-8 cm, place the container in a plastic bag with holes (to allow air to penetrate) and place in the refrigerator for winter time.
Check the container regularly and, if necessary, moisten the sand or peat with a spray bottle. The main thing is not to overdo it with watering, otherwise the seeds may rot.
After 3-4 months, the seeds will “hatch” and the sprouts of future peaches will appear.
Remove the container with the sprouts from the refrigerator and plant the seedlings in pots. Take pots with drainage holes. Use fertile soil from a mixture of leaf soil, peat and humus.
Place the pots with seedlings in a well-lit place.
Avoid sudden changes in temperature. At first, provide the sprouts temperature regime+10°C, placing them on a glazed balcony or veranda.
After a few days, bring the pots of sprouts into the room and maintain the room temperature at +18+20°C. Water sparingly when the soil dries out.

What is stratification. How to do stratification correctly:

Crack and extract seeds

A quick way to grow a tree from a seed for the impatient. If you don’t want to wait until spring for seedlings to appear.

Proceed as follows:

Chop the washed and dried bones using a knife or hammer. Work with tools carefully, try not to damage the core of the bone.
Remove the seeds and place in warm water for 2-3 days to swell. Replace the water with fresh water daily.
When you see that the seeds have swollen and increased in size, plant them in separate pots with drainage holes. Select the size of the pot taking into account the fact that the planting depth is 4-6 cm.
After planting, water the seeds and cover the pots with glass or plastic wrap. Ventilate the “greenhouses” every day - remove the film, wipe off the condensation and let the pots “breathe” for a while. Remember, excess moisture causes the appearance of fungus and mold, which are destructive to seeds and seedlings.
After sprouts appear, remove the film.

Remove the seeds and place in warm water for 2-3 days to swell, after planting, water the seeds and cover the pots with glass or plastic wrap

During the growth of a peach, the root system first grows, and only then the tree itself is formed.

Gardeners who grow peaches from seeds note that the height of the seedling reaches 0.5 m after 2-3 months.

How to germinate in a warm way

With this method, peach seeds are immediately planted in pots with a soil mixture in the hope of waiting for sprouts to appear in a few months.

The planting technology is simple:

Keep the prepared bones in the refrigerator for 6-10 days. This will be a kind of short-term stratification.
Remove the seeds from the refrigerator and soak for 2-3 hours in a growth stimulator.
Plant the seeds in a moist soil mixture to a depth of 6-8 cm.
Cover the pots with transparent polyethylene or glass, ventilate them daily and wipe off condensation.
Sprout peaches at room temperature, placing the pots on a brightly lit windowsill. Water as needed.
When sprouts appear after 3-4 months, remove the film and move the seedlings to a well-lit place without drafts or direct sunlight.

Peach pits are immediately planted in pots with soil mixture, after keeping them in the refrigerator for 6-10 days

Caring for young peach shoots

In order for the seedlings to survive and gain strength, it is necessary to create for them favorable conditions.

Soil. Use loose, fertile soil made from peat, humus, sand and leaf soil in proportions 1: 1: 1: 2.

Lighting. Provide good lighting. If there is a lack of sunlight, use LED phytolamps, which will provide the necessary spectrum and accelerate plant growth.

Watering. Water the soil regularly. Reduce watering during fruit ripening and dormant periods.

Temperature conditions. IN winter period provide a temperature of +2+4°C, with the onset of spring during flowering +10+15°C, and after flowering +18+25°C.

Provide the tree with a winter dormant period. During this time, significantly reduce watering, discard additional lighting and provide the plant with a temperature of +2+4°C. Resume normal care after your kidneys awaken.

Feeding. Starting in March, feed the plants with mineral and organic fertilizers every two weeks. Stop fertilizing in September. For organic fertilizers, use a nutritious infusion of humus.

Transfer. Transplant the seedling as it grows into a larger pot in early spring (before flowering) or early September.

Trimming. When will they start to grow back? side shoots, and the height of the main trunk is 70 cm, proceed to forming the crown.

Fruiting occurs on the side branches of the tree, so the seedling should not be allowed to grow upward. Carry out the main pruning next spring. Prune and pinch out vigorous shoots annually.

In order for the seedlings to survive and gain strength, it is necessary to create favorable conditions for them, including a winter dormancy period

Planting a tree in open ground at the dacha

Only the owners can grow a full-fledged peach at home winter garden, cool veranda, glass loggia or greenhouses.

In normal apartment conditions, it is impossible to provide the seedling with the necessary temperature conditions, depending on the time of year. But if all conditions can be met, then in the first year, a young peach will grow up to 1.5 m.

Plan to transplant peach into open ground for March next year or early September. If you plant several seedlings, maintain an interval of 3-4 meters between them.

The same distance should be to adult plants that provide extensive shade, and to the walls of buildings on the site. Choose a place for planting that is well lit, but protected from drafts.

Before planting a peach dig a hole about 1 m deep, add organic fertilizer and dig well. Plant the seedling and compact the soil. Spray the tree trunk circles with water at room temperature and cover with a layer of mulch or humus.

A plant grown from a seed at home in the first 2-3 years after transplantation into open ground should be given special attention, because it is still poorly adapted to weather conditions.

Plan to transplant peach seedlings into open ground in March next year or early September

In winter, wrap the tree with burlap or non-woven material, and insulate the barrel with glass wool. Take care of the root system - to prevent it from freezing, cover the soil around the trunk with a thick layer of fallen leaves or spruce branches.

In open ground conditions, young trees can be attacked by aphids, scale insects, spider mite and codling moth. Diseases for peach include scab, leaf curl, powdery mildew, fruit rot, clasteropsoriosis and moniliosis.

To protect the seedlings, Regularly prune dry and cracked shoots and carry out preventive treatment with insecticides.

The process of growing a peach tree from a pit is not difficult, but it does require time and patience. With proper care after 2-3 years, fragrant and juicy fruits will appear, and the harvest can be harvested within 10-12 years.

Growing peaches is practiced even in the harsh conditions of Siberia, so in our latitudes you can safely take on the experiment.

How to germinate a peach pit:

Hello, dear friends!

Sometimes you really want something unusual in your apartment (house). Nowadays, fortunately, you can do anything as long as it brings you pleasure. So, today anyone can easily grow a peach, tangerine, lemon and other citrus tree on their windowsill, which will smell fragrant and delight its owner with delicious fruits. Of course, there are some basic rules for caring for a houseplant, but absolutely everyone can follow them.

It's worth starting with how grow a peach tree. Some use the most ordinary fruit seed, others buy it in the store. The peculiarity is that this extraordinary tree easily tolerates unfavorable temperatures, down to 0 degrees. But it should be noted that you need to know which plant varieties are suitable for room conditions, and which ones are not. Among suitable species stand out: Nobles; Nectarine white, pineapple; early Rivers and Winner.

peach tree- a perennial that does not like shade and dark rooms and areas. In this regard, it is best to place it in a warm place, in the sun and preferably in a ventilated area. In order for a peach to bloom and bear fruit, it needs to create favorable conditions, for example, constantly transfer it (seasonally) to warm corners of the apartment. It is known that adult plants are able to withstand harsher temperatures, even 10 degrees, but you should not risk the health of your “baby”. It is very important to water the peach correctly, for example, in the summer it requires large quantity water, but in winter the procedure is limited. Spraying the leaves is also practiced, but this is not necessary, especially during the flowering period.

Don't forget to feed the tree periodically. It is best to do this in the spring. The soil itself should consist of peat, sand, leaves, humus and turf. Then the plant will feel ideal. The main component is drainage; it must be present in the pot. Fertilizing should be carried out 1-2 times a month, it is best that it consists of a mineral mixture and organic matter.

If you decide to propagate a peach, then you cannot do without grafting onto the rootstocks. In addition, the tree requires regular pruning. This process will not only have a positive effect on the plant, but will also serve as a prophylactic against many diseases. If the slightest signs of moths or aphids are visible, the peach should be immediately treated with special chemicals that will ensure its further full development.

Try it grow a peach tree in your home! See you later, friends!

In theory, if everything goes well, the planted seed will sprout in due time. Of course, we need to create the conditions that peach loves. In particular, since this is a heat-loving crop, in order to increase the chances of better taking seeds from local peach varieties growing in your region, such seeds will have the necessary cold resistance.

Features of growing a peach tree

In general, it is recommended to find out which tree you got the seed from. A seed from a rooted tree will give approx. 70-80% of the properties of the variety, but if the seed is from a fruit grown on a grafted tree, then there is a high probability that the seedling will turn out to be a barren flower. In this case, the grown tree should be grafted when the trunk reaches 7-10 mm in girth at the root collar. The best option is to budding with a dormant bud on a summer day, or to graft with a germinating bud in the area of the root collar or a little higher by 6-7 cm, this should be done in the spring.

About a week before planting, the peach pit should be placed in a container of water, and the water should be changed every day. Before planting, carefully prick the seed with a hammer, being careful not to damage the seed. The preferable planting time is autumn, so that the seed naturally undergoes stratification. Place the seed in the hole to a depth of 8 cm, after thoroughly loosening the soil. It is better to choose a place in the shade.

First the root sprouts, after rooting the stem begins to grow. The soil must be kept loose and moist. Over the summer months, the seedling will stretch 1.2 - 1.3 meters, a crown will begin to develop, which in the first year must be formed - cut out the leader so that the trunk grows another 60-70 cm and the side shoots develop better. In the fall, the side branches that will form the skeleton of the crown are selected, the rest are cut into rings. Fruits on a peach tree can be seen already in the 3rd year. Also read our article: What varieties of peaches to grow on your own plot.

To grow a peach, you need to be patient. But of course the result, in the form flower pot with a personally grown peach plant will reward this work.

How grow peach a tree from a seed and care for young seedlings? From which peaches is it better to collect seeds suitable for sowing? How to stimulate their germination? All this will be the topic for this article. By following some rules, everyone can grow their own peach in their home garden!

Is it worth growing a peach from a pit?

Before you start peach plants, we need to know a few things.

Imported The peach fruits we buy in stores are picked at a very early stage of ripening to survive transportation. In such fruits the seeds were not well developed. The pits from such peaches will not germinate.

Therefore only peach pits, which are grown in our area, are suitable for propagation and growing young plants from seeds.

Fetus The one we select for this event must be very mature, preferably one that has fallen from the tree itself.

It should also be taken into account the fact that peaches, obtained from seeds, may differ from the parent plants, and their fruits may taste and look different. The delicious peaches that we eat come from varieties and hybrids that were developed thanks to the work of breeders.

Besides, peaches, grown from seeds, are usually grafted onto dwarf rootstocks, so their natural growth is limited. Peach trees grown from seed will reach a natural, usually very tall height if grown without rootstock.

Latest important information is that peach trees can grow and fully develop only after many years of cultivation. And all this time the tree can only serve us as an ornamental plant.

It's worth thinking Is it worth growing peach from seeds?, because this is a really long and labor-intensive process.

How to sow peach seeds?

Seeds, hidden in a peach pit, obtained immediately after picking the fruit, are not yet able to germinate. This happens because they are in a phase of deep physiological rest.

So before we move peach seed into the ground, it is necessary to carry out stratification, which will awaken the seed from sleep.

Peach pits extracted from fruits in summer, thoroughly washed running water and soak. During this, you need to discard the bones floating on the surface of the water.

Peeled from the remaining pulp, the seeds are dried and packaged in paper bags, which will be stored at room temperature until the end of October.

At the turn of October and November peach pits placed in a bowl with warm water and incubated for 24 hours. After this time, the material is placed in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1. And over the next 90-120 days, store in the cold at a temperature of +2+4 °C.

Depending on our capacity, the substrate is made of paper bags or foil. Foil bags can be stored in the refrigerator or in drawers in unheated areas where the temperature is maintained at an appropriate level.

During the period Cooling peach pits should be constantly moist. The appearance of the first shoots, which usually begins in April, is a signal to immediately sow the seeds in a pot or ground if you plan to continue growing the young plant in the garden.

Another way scarification of seeds peach - sow them in the fall, in September, in the ground. Before planting, after thoroughly removing the pulp, dip the seed for a few seconds in an aqueous solution of a fungicide for seed treatment (for example, Captan). Then dry the seeds, plant them in the soil, water them generously and cover them with a layer of peat.

In this version There is no need to refrigerate the seeds as they will undergo this step naturally. It must be remembered that with this method of sowing peach seeds, they do not germinate within a year, which is quite natural.

You can also purchase a fig seedling at the same time and plant it at the same time as the peach pits. If suddenly the seeds do not take root, then this possibility always exists for young trees.

How to care for peaches grown from stones?

Pots with growing peach seedlings, install in a bright place, away from radiators. Pots should have a drainage hole at the bottom to allow excess water to drain away. Also, a drainage layer consisting of small pebbles, expanded clay or other suitable materials is laid on the bottom.

When it gets warm, pots with plants are periodically taken outside. In spring, when there is a risk of severe frosts, the pots are moved overnight to a closed balcony or terrace.

The best place for the location of the peach will be the southern part of the house. In summer, it is best to place the pots under cover, protecting them from rain, which will reduce the risk of fungal diseases. Water is regularly added to the pots of peach trees.

Soil should always be moist, but the roots should not be flooded or waterlogged. In the fall, when the peach becomes stronger, it needs to be protected from impending frost.

Peach, for proper development, requires a natural period of rest, and for this it needs to cool down. Therefore, in winter, do not move the pot indoors.

He should be protected insulating material, for example, agrotextiles, from frost and remain outside or in a closed but unheated greenhouse.

After the first year growing a peach in a pot, you need to transplant the tree to new soil. Peach can be grown in containers with a minimum depth of 45 cm. However, after a while, when its size prevents further growth in the container, the tree should be replanted.

Young peaches Plants grown in soil must be regularly cleared of weeds and loosened the soil. To do this, the area with germinating seeds can be mulched or covered with a litter of leaves, which will reduce the germination of weeds.

Young peach trees need to be protected from spring precipitation by building a small tent made of foil or polyethylene over them. It is removed at the beginning of summer. After a year, the peach is transplanted into new soil and then cared for in the same way as adults in the garden until the expected harvest is obtained.

And for those who like to know more, we suggest you watch a video on how to grow a peach from a pit