Peach tree from a pit at home. How to grow a peach from a seed How to grow a peach from a seed

Gardeners are very inquisitive people. Not more than a hundred years ago, in central Russia there were a few orchards with apples and cherries of folk selection. Most modern varieties appeared within one generation.

The technology for growing cherries and apricots has already been mastered, winter-hardy varieties these trees. Gardeners were not satisfied with this. Grow a peach from a pit at home, get the fruits in middle zone Russia is the dream of many gardeners. How to do it correctly and what you can count on, this is our story.

Reproduction using seeds

Recently, the hobby of growing southern exotic trees at home. The beginning was made by Pavlovsk lemons, which successfully bore fruit on northern window sills.

Over time, lemons were joined by tangerines, grapefruits, and oranges. Then it was the turn of coffee, feijoa, papaya and pineapple. Peaches grow much closer to the middle zone than these exotics, which feel good in the house. Why not try growing peaches at home.

Important! Of course, there are no special varieties of indoor peaches.

Although it is a short plant, it is still a tree. Therefore, it will not be possible to grow it in a pot. However, growing peaches through seedlings grown from seeds planted in pots is a very promising activity.

Rules for choosing suitable planting material

To successfully propagate a plant, you need to know which seeds to choose. Store-bought fruits are not suitable for this event:

• the fruits were brought from very warm countries (Turkey, China, Italy) and the trees from them will not be able to acclimatize in Russia;
• fruits are collected at the stage of technical ripeness for long-term transportation, the nucleoli are immature;
• fruits are treated with chemicals to extend storage time, which causes the seeds to become brittle and often crack.

You can grow a peach from any fruit. But in the garden the seedling will die due to the local climate being unsuitable for it.

Important! For peach propagation bone buy fruits grown in Russia. And the closer they grow peaches to the future landing site, the better.

Growing a fruit-bearing peach from a seed at home is a labor-intensive but very interesting process. Such trees are best adapted to local conditions.

If you can get winter-hardy peach seeds early varieties, then success is guaranteed. Such varieties growing in southern regions Russia without shelter, and in the Moscow region with shelter, include:

1. Early Kiev is a low tree 3 meters high. Distinctive feature varieties – rapid recovery from frost damage. The fruits, weighing 80–90 g, ripen in early August and have greenish-white flesh.
2. Pushkinsky early - the tree grows up to 6 m in height. The fruits, weighing 100–120 g, ripen at the end of August and have greenish-cream flesh.
3. Redhaven - an old American variety reaches a height of 5 m. At the end of August, large fruits weighing 140–160 g with an orange-yellow core and pink streaks in the center ripen.

The seeds of these varieties are best suited for growing in the central regions of Russia. Propagation by seeds does not repeat the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, but the seedlings are the most adapted to local climatic conditions.

Landing

How to grow a peach from a pit at home is not an easy question. The seed germinates reluctantly; only 25% of the planted seeds will produce seedlings. To still get sprouts, you need to follow certain rules:

• completely clean the seed from the fruit pulp;
• soak for 10 days before planting. In the last two days, it is advisable to add a growth stimulator to the water.

The kernel will germinate only after overwintering, so the pot with the plantings should be buried in the garden. Best time for planting - late October or early November. If this is not possible, you can put the pot in a cold cellar or refrigerator. In this case, you need to check the soil moisture.

Important! Peach is undemanding when it comes to soil; any prepared soil is suitable.

Naturally, it should be loose. Plant the seed at a depth of 6–8 cm.

After 3–4 months, sprouts appear from the seeds. It is important that the air temperature does not change sharply. You cannot take the seedlings out of the refrigerator and place them in a sunny window. Tender sprouts will quickly die from such drastic changes. Seedlings are kept in a cold place, gradually accustoming them to warmth.

Such difficulties do not arise if seedlings grow in the garden. They harden naturally.

You can grow a seedling indoors from a seed. Before planting, the seeds should lie in the refrigerator for 6–8 days. The pot is covered with glass or a plastic bag. If condensation appears, ventilate it.

Germination begins with the development and growth of the root. Therefore, you will have to wait several months for shoots from peach seeds. After germination, the polyethylene cover can be removed.

The disadvantage of this method of obtaining germinated seeds is that the grown plants will be less adapted to an unsuitable climate due to the lack of hardening.

Experienced gardeners use another method of growing seedlings:

• the seeds are soaked for two weeks;
• open them, revealing the shell;
• the kernels are soaked again for two days;
• swollen nucleoli are sown to a depth of 3–4 cm.

With this method, faster and more friendly shoots are achieved from planted nucleoli.

Fans of garden exotics decide how to germinate peach pits and which method to use based on their capabilities and conditions.

Caring for seedlings at home

Over the summer peach young tree from a seed on a windowsill it can grow to a height of more than a meter. The main thing is to create good conditions for its development:

• sufficient illumination;
• timely watering;
• abundant feeding;
• correct temperature;
• effective pruning.

Important! Peach is a plant with a pronounced dormant period. During the winter months, it does not need lighting or feeding.

You only need to monitor the moderate humidity of the soil in the pot and keep the sleeping tree in a cool room at a temperature of +2–4 °C. Only when the buds are swollen does the plant need to be provided with intensive care.

The southern plant needs good lighting. If seedlings appeared in the house before April, they will need additional lighting. LED lamps They consume little electricity and emit a spectrum of light suitable for plants.

At a young age, the tree is very moisture-loving. Watering is carried out as the soil dries with warm water.

For fertilizer use complex mineral fertilizer with microelements such as Agricola, since the plant is demanding on the presence of microelements such as copper. The seedling needs feeding only from the second year of life.

Foliar feeding preferable. To do this, prepare an effective solution that contains all the basic elements of nutrition and microelements. Take and mix:

• 5 g soda ash;
• 1 g boric acid;
• 2 g copper sulfate;
• a drop of iodine;
• crystal of potassium permanganate;
• liter of water.

Spraying is repeated twice a month. Feeding is done 2 times a month until September. In September, the tree begins to prepare for the winter season.

Important! The temperature for keeping young seedlings in the spring should be +10–15 °C, after flowering and before harvesting the fruits +18–25 °C.

Starting from the second year of life, young seedlings begin to form using pruning. Caring for them is impossible without creating the correct goblet-shaped crown and adjusting the height of the tree. Flowering occurs on the side branches, so vigorous shoots are pruned annually.

Is it possible to grow a peach tree at home? Only if there is a greenhouse, winter garden or an insulated loggia. It is impossible to create suitable conditions in the room. Therefore, at the age of one year they are planted in the garden.

Transplanting into the ground

In the first year, the young seedling grows to 1–1.5 m in height. In September, seedlings of grown trees are planted in the garden.

How to plant a peach so that it grows actively in the garden? The place should be well lit by the sun, protected from strong winds. The distance between peach trees is 3–4 meters. The same distance should be to trees and buildings growing nearby.

The planting hole is dug in advance with a diameter of 1 m and the same depth. Before planting, add a bucket of humus or manure and several buckets of water. The seedlings are planted on a mound of fertile soil, covered and compacted. After planting, water again.

The young tree is tied to a peg driven nearby, and the tree trunk is mulched with organic matter.

Important! Not all varieties are self-pollinating plants, so you need to plant at least 3-4 plants nearby.

In the first years of life, a peach grown as a seedling from a seed must be especially carefully prepared for winter: cover the trunk circle with a thick layer of mulch, tie the trunk with construction insulation, and wrap it in burlap.

The tree can suffer from fungal diseases and other infections:

• scab;
• leaf curl;
• fruit rot;
• Clusteropsoriosis;
• moniliosis.

In addition, he may suffer from garden pests: aphids, scale insects, spider mites and codling moths.

To prevent all these troubles, you need to know how to properly do prophylaxis for peach. In spring and autumn, the tree is regularly formed, carrying out sanitary and rejuvenating pruning. Do preventive treatment with fungicides.

Peach is a fast-growing plant. Perhaps already 2-3 years after planting in the garden it can bear the first fruits.

Conclusion

Is it possible to plant a peach orchard in central Russia? How to grow a fruit-bearing peach from a pit? Everyone can plant a seed, but not everyone can grow a tree. Only a patient and attentive gardener can grow a peach grove in central Russia.

How to grow a peach from an ordinary seed? There's nothing complicated about it. A seed of the variety you like can be buried in the ground in the fall. You can plant peach this way in spring and summer. The more seeds are planted, the more likely it is that a tree will grow from a seed. You can first grow a seedling in a container and then transfer it to the garden.

Peach is considered southern, exotic plant, although this crop can be grown anywhere in Central Russia. Each region has its own varieties that will bear fruit consistently, despite cold winters. True, varietal trees reproduce vegetatively. However, you can plant a seed in your dacha. It will definitely grow into a peach.

Advantages of growing a tree from a seed:

• low cost of planting material;
• peach variety visible;
• excellent adaptability of the local variety to weather conditions your region.

Disadvantages and difficulties encountered with this method of planting:

• parental characteristics are not always transmitted to the seedling;
• long growing period, late onset of fruiting;
• high probability of death of young seedlings;
• need for special care.

Experienced gardeners advise, when choosing planting material, to give preference to zoned varieties. True, there have been cases when a peach from an unfamiliar tree that I just liked took root well and bore fruit well.

Growing from seed at home

Peach is considered a heat-loving plant. Winters that are too cold are destructive for him. A fruiting tree can be obtained from a stone obtained from a local variety of peach. The germination rate of this crop is low - only 25 percent. To plant, you need to take at least 5 seeds. After all, during the growing process, some seedlings will die.

No matter how tasty the fruits brought from Spain or Turkey may seem, when choosing material for planting, it is better to give preference to peaches purchased from summer residents at the market at the end of summer. After all, many hybrids go on sale. A tree grown from the seeds of such fruits will not receive parental qualities.

In addition, peaches are supplied to supermarkets at the period of biological maturity, that is, green. Immature planting material will not give good shoots.

Winter hardiness

For planting in central Russia, it is better not to take fruits grown in the south. These peaches have low winter hardiness. Even if the seed germinates, the seedlings will soon die, unable to withstand low winter temperatures. In August, you can walk through the local market and buy peaches from a summer resident who grew them on his own at his summer cottage. The following varieties have good winter hardiness: Kievskiy ranniy, Seyanets Shlikhta.

Self-pollination

Before you start planting, you need to ask what tree the peach grew on. It is best to take a seed from an ungrafted and self-pollinating plant. After all, if the tree has been grafted, it will not be possible to get exactly the same peaches as on the mother crop. If the tree is not self-fertile, then several varieties must be planted to pollinate the plant, otherwise the yield may be very low. Peaches with high yields: White Nectarine, Kremlevsky, Redhaven, Myra, Krasnodar Nectarine, Nobles.

Early ripeness

When choosing a variety to plant in your dacha, it is better to take peaches early date maturation. The fruits on such trees begin to ripen in the second half of July and early August. Popular early ripening varieties: Early Minion, Winner, Early Riversa.

Choosing a method

The seed chosen for planting must be obtained from a ripe, soft, sweet fruit. There should be no rot or traces of insects on the peach. The pit must be freed from the pulp and washed thoroughly in warm water, then dried well. It's just preparatory stage, then you need to choose a landing method.

Cold

Traditionally, the fruits that ripen at the end of summer fall to the ground, decompose, and the remaining seeds are hardened by low winter temperatures, swell in the spring as the snow melts, and germinate closer to summer. You can simply take a seed and bury it in the garden in the fall. It is advisable to somehow mark the landing site.

The stone can undergo stratification in a cold room. To do this, you need to place it in a pot with wet sand. The seed can be prepared for planting by placing it in the refrigerator on the shelf with vegetables for several months. You can wrap it in a damp cloth and put it in a plastic bag.

In the process of preparing planting material, it is important to provide not only a low temperature to activate the seed embryo, but also moisture for the swelling of the seed.

How to plant a seed using the cold method:

1. Fill a small pot with damp coarse sand or peat.
2. Plant the seed to a depth of 5 centimeters.
3. Place the pot in a cold basement. You can place the container in the refrigerator, but first you need to wrap it in a perforated plastic bag.
4. The pot should be kept in the cold for 3-4 months. Periodically, the soil needs to be moistened.
5. When the seed hatches, it needs to be transplanted into a container with fertile soil. It is better to place the container on the windowsill and regularly ventilate the room.
6. The emerging sprout needs to be provided with a temperature of 17-20 degrees Celsius. The seedlings must be watered regularly and the soil must not be allowed to dry out.

Seed extraction

You can speed up the process of seed germination by removing it from the shell. The bone is first washed and dried. The extracted seed should be kept in a moist environment for several days. It is not at all necessary to immerse it in water. It’s better to put it on a damp cloth on a saucer. The main thing is that the seed has the opportunity to breathe and does not become moldy.

The water or napkin must be changed daily. When sprouts appear, the seeds are planted in pots with soil. During germination of seedlings, containers should be kept in a warm room.

Warm

You can germinate the seed in a warm room. First you need to wash it, dry it and put it in a glass of water for several days. The fluid must be changed regularly. Before planting, the seed must be split on one side. A seed planted in this way will germinate without stratification. True, experienced gardeners recommend putting the seed in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks before soaking.

Subsequent care of the seedling

The emerging seedlings need to be looked after regularly so that they do not die. It is better to place the container with the plant on the windowsill in a warm room.

Soil

To grow a seedling, you need to prepare the soil. You can buy it ready-made in the store, based on peat and fertile soil. The acidity should be neutral. You can independently mix garden soil with peat and sand in equal proportions, add a little humus and wood ash. The soil must be doused with boiling water or disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Lighting

According to growing technology, the daylight hours for a peach seedling should be 10 hours. In the autumn-winter period, you need to turn on LED phytolamps in the evening.

Watering

The seedling needs to be watered regularly as the soil dries out. It is not recommended to overfill the plant with water, otherwise it will hurt and begin to rot.

Temperature

Usually the hatched seed is planted in a pot with fertile soil. early spring when it's still cold outside. For normal growth, a young sprout needs 17-20 degrees of heat, that is, the plant before transplanting into open ground should be at room temperature.

Top dressing

A seedling growing in a container does not need any feeding. The plant must have enough nutrients available in the soil mixture. Additional fertilization in the early period can burn the delicate root system of the sprout.

Transfer

If a growing seedling becomes cramped in a pot, you can transplant it into a larger container. The new container should have holes for water to escape, and you can put a little expanded clay on the bottom before adding the soil mixture.

Trimming

There is no need to prune the plant at an early stage. It should grow a little and form a trunk as thick as a felt-tip pen. The first pruning can be done when transplanting into open ground.

Transplanting a tree into open ground

The grown seedling needs to be transplanted into the garden. Growing it in a container makes sense only for owners of a winter garden.

The plant is transplanted to a permanent place in the garden in spring or autumn. A seedling that has grown in the spring can be taken outside when the air warms up to 15 degrees Celsius. Too sudden a jump in temperature can harm a small plant. You can place a container with a seedling on the terrace for the summer, and plant it in the garden in the fall, in mid-September.

Site selection and preparation

For planting, you need to choose a place in the country that is well-lit and protected from drafts and chilly winds. Peach does not like too moist soil, so when choosing a site, you need to look to see if water accumulates in it after rain.

To plant a seedling, you need to dig a hole measuring 50x60 centimeters. The selected soil must be mixed with 5 kilograms of humus, peat, sand, add 100 grams of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 300 grams of wood ash and a little lime.

Planting scheme

One third of the fertilized soil should be poured back into the hole, and then the seedling should be planted on top of the mound using the transfer method, along with a lump of earth. The remaining soil should be filled in the free areas on the sides. During the replanting process, the root collar should not be buried; the soil level should not change.

There should be 3 meters of free space left to the neighboring plant. After planting, the tree trunk circle should be watered generously.

Further care

A seedling transplanted to a new location needs to be cared for regularly. The plant should not be left unattended, otherwise it will die.

Preparing for winter

Before the onset of frost, you need to add a thick layer of earth to the trunk and cover it with dry leaves or grass on top. In winter, snow should be buried near the plant; it will help protect it from the cold.

Trimming

The first pruning can be done the next season after planting. The central trunk of the plant needs to be trimmed by 10 centimeters. In the following years, forming the crown and sanitary pruning are carried out. You need to trim the branches in early spring - before the buds awaken, or in the fall - after leaf fall.

Watering

The plant is watered only during drought. A bucket of water is poured under the root of a young seedling once a week. For an adult plant you need to take 2-4 buckets. IN rainy weather watering is not carried out.

Top dressing

In the first 3 years, the plant is not fed; the fertilizers added to the soil when planting should be sufficient. For the 4-5 season, before fruiting begins in the spring, the soil can be watered with slurry or urea solution. Before flowering, peach is fed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate. The foliage can be irrigated with a weak boron solution. For the winter, the tree trunk circle is mulched with humus.

Protection from pests and diseases

A peach can get sick from characteristic stone fruit diseases: moniliosis, powdery mildew, leaf curl, cytosporosis, clusterosporosis. Fertilizing, pruning, cleaning the tree trunk from weeds and fallen leaves, and prevention will help protect the plant from infections. To prevent diseases in the spring, the stem is bleached with Bordeaux mixture or lime, and in the summer, before and after flowering, the foliage is sprayed with fungicides (Hom, Horus, Skor).

In spring and summer, peach is attacked by hordes of insects (aphids, weevils, mites, caterpillars). The following insecticides are used for protection: Confidor, Fitoverm, Fufanon. The preparations are diluted with water and the solution is treated with wood and foliage. A minimum of 3 sprayings are needed per season.

Growing exotic tropical trees such as orange, kiwi, and pomegranate is becoming increasingly fashionable among amateur gardeners. They are trying to “domesticate” other crops, for example, peach. But going to the store for such a tree is useless. The only way to acquire it is to grow it from a seed yourself. There is nothing complicated about this; the gardener will only need desire, a little patience and the ability to strictly follow the rules and recommendations. The process is labor-intensive, but very interesting.

Selection of planting material

There is hardly a person who does not like peaches. That is why more and more flower growers, partly following fashion trends, are trying to grow a fruit-bearing tree on their windowsill. But simply sticking a peach seed into the ground and expecting a harvest would be naive, to say the least. The procedure is much more complicated; it requires preliminary preparation, the ability to act according to these recommendations, the availability of free time and, of course, desire.

Growing a fruit-bearing peach tree at home is a task that is entirely within the capabilities of even a less experienced gardener.

It is useless to extract seeds from store-bought peaches and plant them. There will definitely be no shoots. The fact is that these fruits are grown very far from Russia (Spain, China, Thailand, Turkey). In order for the crop to safely survive transportation, the fruits are harvested long before the onset of not only biological, but also technical maturity, almost green. In addition, for better preservation and extended shelf life, peaches are treated with chemicals. The seeds inside the seeds simply do not have time to ripen; it makes no sense to talk about germination. And the drugs used contribute to the fact that the shell becomes very fragile, breaks easily, and bursts in half. By the way, eating such fruits is not recommended.

Peaches bought in a store cannot be used to obtain planting material.

Only seeds of peaches grown on local farms and in private garden plots have a chance of germinating. Therefore, you need to go to markets, agricultural fairs, neighbors in the country, and so on, to get planting material. But even the “right” fruit does not guarantee success. Practice shows that on average one seed out of four germinates, and a significant part of the seedlings die within two to three months after germination. Therefore, it is advisable to stock up on planting material in excess.

Only seeds of peaches taken from the tree after reaching full maturity produce seedlings at home.

It is also advisable to ask the seller whether the peach tree has been grafted. In self-rooted plants, the “descendants” completely inherit the varietal characteristics of the “parent”. And germinating seeds extracted from grafted peaches is a kind of lottery. Until the first harvest, no one will be able to say what the fruits will be like.

Even if you can’t get peach fruits at home, you will get a wonderful interior decoration - this tree blooms very beautifully

In principle, peaches of any variety can be ripened at home. But if you have a choice, you should give preference to those that are characterized by short stature, early ripening and the ability to self-pollinate. Of the varieties cultivated in Russia and the countries of the former USSR, the varieties Pineapple, Krasnodar, Kiev, Mignon ranniy, and Redhaven fully correspond to these characteristics.

The Redhaven peach is an old, well-deserved hybrid, bred in the USA; it is also quite suitable for growing at home

Video: is it possible to grow a peach from a pit at home?

Planting seeds and preparing for it

Peach seeds definitely require pre-planting preparation. There are several methods that differ in duration, labor intensity and effectiveness. The fruits from which the seeds are extracted must be overripe, but at the same time absolutely healthy, without the slightest suspicious symptoms indicating the development of pathogenic fungi, viruses, bacteria or traces reminiscent of damage left by insects.

Stratification

Stratification or the so-called cold method is the most common option pre-landing preparation. Its essence is to simulate “winter” for the seeds, creating conditions as close as possible to natural ones. In this case, the natural mechanism of preparing the seed for germination is launched, chemical reactions begin, and in the process complex organic compounds decompose into simple components that the embryo is able to use for nutrition and assimilate.

In order for stratification to be successful, peach pits must be thoroughly cleaned of pulp particles.

In addition to low temperature (2–5ºС), in order for stratification to be successful, peach seeds need to be provided with good aeration and high air humidity (70% or more). You can place them, for example, in the refrigerator, in a special compartment for storing vegetables and fruits. And also a good solution is a cellar or basement. If the winter is expected to be warm and snowy, the container is simply buried in the garden. They begin preparations in mid-autumn, calculating the time so that by the time the seeds sprout, it is still quite cold outside.

The temperature in the fruit and vegetable compartment is optimal for stratifying peach pits

The stratification procedure itself looks like this:

1. Shallow containers are filled with coarse river sand or peat chips. The substrate must first be thoroughly washed and disinfected by treating it with steam, calcining it in the oven, or keeping it in the freezer. Some gardeners recommend sawdust or sphagnum moss as a “soil”, but when using them it is very difficult to provide the required humidity.
2. Peach pits, carefully cleared of any scraps of pulp (the latter can cause the development of rot), are planted in the ground, deepened to 7–9 cm.
3. Place the container in a paper or transparent plastic bag, make 3-4 holes in it with a knife, and place it in the refrigerator. The condition of the soil is constantly monitored, moistening the soil with a fine spray as it dries. If condensation appears, open the bag for 5–7 minutes to ventilate.
4. After 10–12 weeks, the seeds will sprout and their shell will open. When this happens, the container is removed from the refrigerator, the peaches are planted in individual pots with a diameter of 7–9 cm. The soil is prepared independently, mixing peat chips, humus and universal soil for indoor plants or leaf soil in approximately equal proportions.
5. Provide peaches with enough light by placing them on a south or southwest windowsill. Sudden changes in microclimate should not be allowed. The temperature is raised gradually. For 5–7 days, the seedlings are kept on a glassed-in loggia at 10–12ºС. Then they can be brought into the apartment, ensuring coolness (17–20ºС). All this time, the peaches are watered very moderately, only when the soil dries out.

Seed extraction

The existing seed is simply carefully split to remove the seeds. If everything is done correctly, seedlings will appear much earlier than with stratification. But because complete absence During hardening, such peaches are especially demanding in terms of maintenance conditions and require ideal care. Plants very poorly tolerate even minor fluctuations in temperature, humidity, and so on.

The peach pit is split very carefully so as not to damage the seed, even its shell.

You need to do this:

1. Peach pits are thoroughly washed and dried for several days, spread on linen napkins or paper towels. They are then very carefully broken using a knife and hammer. Seeds (“kernels”) that have received even the slightest damage during the process can be immediately thrown away.
2. The extracted seeds are kept in water heated to room temperature for 3-4 days, changing the liquid every morning. They should swell, noticeably increasing in size.
3. When this happens, the peach seeds are planted in individual pots, deepened by 4–5 cm. “Greenhouse” conditions are created for them by covering the containers with plastic film and covering them with glass.
4. Future peaches are provided with bottom heating, darkness, and a temperature of 26–28ºС. Every day for 5–10 minutes the “greenhouse” is opened for ventilation, while simultaneously wiping off the accumulated condensate. Moisten the soil very sparingly and only when it dries out. High humidity often provokes the development of rot.
5. As soon as the sprouts appear, the “shelter” is removed, the containers are exposed to light, providing a “day” lasting at least 12 hours. Temperature and watering requirements do not change.

The “greenhouse effect” is absolutely necessary for peach seeds extracted from pits to sprout

Germinating seeds in natural conditions

The simplest option requires minimum costs time and effort. The so-called warm way will not require the creation of a special microclimate for seeds. Normal home conditions are sufficient. The seeds extracted from the fruit are simply planted in pots filled with soil and hope for the best. If you're lucky, sprouts will appear in 3-4 months.

Peach seedlings obtained from seeds that have not undergone any preliminary preparation are an extremely rare occurrence.

You can increase your chances of success by doing the following:

1. The seeds are placed in the refrigerator for 7–10 days, providing at least short-term stratification.
2. Then they are soaked for 3–4 hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. The most common remedies are Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, potassium humate, succinic acid, aloe juice.
3. The seeds are planted in cups filled with universal soil for indoor plants, deepened at least 5 cm. There must be several drainage holes and a layer of expanded clay (or other suitable material) at the bottom, 2–3 cm thick. The soil must first be well moistened.
4. The seeds are provided with the same conditions as described in the previous method. Special attention you need to pay attention to watering - peach categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture. When the sprouts appear, the containers are moved to the brightest place in the apartment, providing protection from any drafts and direct sunlight.

Biostimulants used during seed germination have a positive effect on seed germination and strengthen the immunity of future plants

The growth rate of the peach tree is no different. Sometimes it even seems that the seedlings do not develop at all. First, the tree forms the root system, and only then the above-ground part. But then it rapidly begins to grow, stretching 45–60 cm in height in 8–10 weeks. The first harvest can be expected 4–5 years after emergence.

A young peach tree does not grow very quickly, but there is no need to worry about this, this is completely normal for it

Transplant procedure

The peach tree is replanted for the first time when it reaches a height of 15–20 cm. The soil is prepared independently by mixing peat chips, humus, river sand and ordinary garden soil in a ratio (1: 1: 1: 2).

Flowering and fruiting greatly deplete the plant, so the soil for it must be nutritious, one of its essential components is humus

The peach tree does not need to be replanted too often. Once every 2-3 years is enough. Some tightness will even benefit the roots, stimulating more abundant flowering. The optimal time for the procedure is early spring (before the active growing season begins) or the first half of September (when fruiting ends).

For peach, choose a pot that resembles a bucket in shape. It's still a tree, so root system he has a developed one. It is best to purchase a ceramic container - it is more stable and ensures proper aeration.

There simply isn’t enough room for peach roots in a shallow, flat pot.

Further care

In nature, peach grows in the tropics. This is what you need to focus on when creating a suitable microclimate for the tree. It is worth listening to its “requirements”, because flowering and fruiting are possible only in optimal or close to optimal conditions.

Creating the right microclimate

Peach is very light-loving. The plant needs to be provided with 12–14 hours of daylight. In most of the territory of Russia it will not be possible to get by with natural light, so for additional illumination you will have to use simple fluorescent or special phytolamps. They are turned on not only in autumn and winter, but also in summer, in cloudy, cool weather.

An LED phytolamp does not consume much electricity, but it allows you to provide peaches with the desired length of daylight.

A pot with a peach tree is placed near a window facing south or southeast. As a rule, this is the brightest place in the apartment. But a plant, especially a young one, can suffer from burns, so during the period of maximum solar activity it must be shaded, covered with tulle, gauze, or a paper screen.

The plant has a very positive attitude towards fresh air, but categorically does not tolerate cold drafts. This must be taken into account when choosing a place in the apartment. In summer, peach feels great on a loggia, veranda, balcony, or in the garden if it is protected from rain and wind.

Peach loves fresh air very much, so if the temperature is right, it can be taken outside

The optimal temperature varies depending on what stage of development the plant is at. He definitely needs a period of rest at 2–5ºС. It lasts from November to early March. Then the temperature is raised to 12–15ºС. Higher rates may cause buds to fall off. After flowering, the plant needs warmth, but not heat (22–26ºС). The peach tree will not survive negative temperatures.

Air humidity is not a critical indicator for peach. He will be quite satisfied with the standard 50–60%, to maintain which modern apartments no effort required. However, in hot weather, the peach will not mind daily spraying. It is also useful for sanitary purposes to wipe the leaves with a damp sponge or soft cloth from time to time to get rid of dust.

Peach is a moisture-loving plant, but it categorically cannot tolerate stagnant moisture in a pot. The soil is moistened regularly, allowing it to dry 2–3 cm deep. This can be easily checked by inserting a toothpick into the substrate. The intervals between watering vary depending on the weather outside. In hot weather, the peach will have to be watered daily or once every two days, the rest of the time - 2-3 times a week (during the ripening of the fruits, you can get by with just one). Half an hour after the procedure, be sure to drain excess moisture from the pot.

Most abundant watering The plant needs it after emerging from the dormant period, when the leaf buds begin to “wake up.” As soon as flowering ends and fruit ovaries are formed, it is reduced. Overmoistening can cause the ovaries to fall off and the fruits to crack. During the wintering period, peach is watered very rarely and moderately, once every 2.5–3 weeks.

Water for irrigation is used soft, heated to room temperature. The one that flows from the tap needs to sit for at least a day. Or you can speed up the process of precipitation by adding a few crystals to it citric acid or 2-3 drops of apple cider vinegar.

Rain water, just like melt water, spring water - ideal option for watering peach

After each watering, about half an hour, the soil is loosened. It must not be allowed to become a crust on the surface of the soil. This prevents normal aeration of the roots and provokes stagnation of moisture.

Flowering and fruiting take a lot of energy from a tree. Therefore, feeding peach is strictly necessary. For this, you can use organic fertilizers based on vermicompost and complex mineral preparations. But natural remedies are also suitable - infusions of wood ash, nettle leaves, dandelion. Fertilizers are applied every 12–14 days throughout the growing season. During wintering, feeding is stopped.

An infusion of nettle leaves is a natural source of nitrogen and phosphorus; before use, it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8

When using garden fertilizers(urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, etc.), when preparing a solution for irrigation, the concentration recommended by the manufacturer is halved. The volume of soil in the pot is limited, because of this, fertilizing is not washed out of the soil. Moderate “overfeeding” is not dangerous for a peach - it will only stop bearing fruit, “concentrating” on increasing the green mass (sometimes such plants are called “fattening”). But regularly exceeding the dose of fertilizer is already intoxication and quite likely the death of the plant.

The most necessary macro- and microelements for the plant are phosphorus, potassium, calcium and copper. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied only in the spring; after winter hibernation, they help stimulate the peach to intensively increase green mass. Experienced flower growers In order to provide it with everything necessary, it is recommended to spray the tree once every month and a half, dissolving it in a liter warm water soda ash (4–5 g), copper sulfate (1.5–2 g), 2–3 crystals of potassium permanganate and a drop of iodine.

Peach trees grown at home are sensitive to copper deficiency; a solution of copper sulfate will help replenish it.

A neglected peach tree does not look very attractive and almost always refuses to bear fruit. Therefore, it needs regular pruning. Formation begins in about a year and a half, when the seedling reaches a height of 65–70 cm and several side shoots form on it.

It is on them that the fruits ripen. Therefore, the upward growth of the tree must be slowed down. In principle, the florist is limited only by the height of the ceilings in own apartment, but practice shows that the optimal height of a peach is 1.5–1.7 m.

The first time you prune a peach is to pinch the top at the desired height. This is done in the fall. Next spring, last year's side shoots are shortened by 2–3 buds, stimulating more intensive branching. And they also get rid of all poorly located branches directed inside the crown and down. It is recommended to leave 6–8 of the most developed side shoots annually, and cut off the rest to the growth point. Branches older than ten years are also removed; they will no longer bear fruit.

Video: rules for pruning peach

How to vaccinate correctly

A peach seedling obtained from a stone, if its variety is known, can be used as a scion for garden tree. And sometimes, on the contrary, it is grown as a rootstock for varietal cuttings. Vaccination is carried out in several ways, but, in any case, the instrument used in the process must be disinfected and sharpened. Sterility is also very important. The less the gardener touches the cuttings, the better.

The most common method, including among gardeners. The best time for the procedure is the beginning of spring. The scion (the part of the plant that is being grafted) and the rootstock (the plant that is being grafted) should be approximately the same in diameter. The first one must have at least three growth buds.

The scion and rootstock should be approximately the same diameter, this applies not only to peach

The rootstock tree is pruned at a height of 25–30 cm. A vertical cut about 5 mm deep is made perpendicular to the cutting plane. The base of the scion cutting is cut at an angle on both sides, forming a V-shaped wedge.

To speed up the process, the base of the scion is soaked for several hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. In addition to store-bought drugs (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin), you can use, for example, succinic acid, aloe juice. Practice shows that powdered products give much worse results.

Grafting into a cleft is the most popular method among gardeners and flower growers; you can graft one or two cuttings at once

The scion wedge is inserted into the split on the rootstock. It should go in there with some effort. Then the entire structure is fixed by wrapping it with plastic film, adhesive tape, electrical tape or covering it with garden pitch. If you do not wrap it tightly enough, the moisture from the tissue will simply evaporate and the cutting will dry out. When a characteristic “influx”, called callus by botanists, appears on the bark around the graft, the film can be removed.

One of the main conditions for grafting success is reliable fixation of the structure.

There are other methods of grafting - combining oblique cuts on the scion and rootstock, grafting onto the bark (if it is thick enough). The procedure is no fundamentally different from cleft grafting, but the first method at home gives better results. The latter method is used extremely rarely at home - the process takes a long time, and there is a high probability that the grafted cutting will simply break off after removing the polyethylene.

Budding

Budding is a slightly more complex method that requires the grower to have some experience. In essence, this is the same grafting, but not a whole cutting is used as a scion, but only one growth bud. Budding can be carried out at any time.

The kidney is cut off along with a layer of tissue 2–3 mm thick and 2.5–3 cm wide (the so-called shield). It is advisable to do this in one motion. During the process, try to touch it as little as possible. The tool used is a scalpel or razor blade.

It is advisable to cut off the bud for budding in one movement, touching it with your hands as little as possible

Next, an incision is made on the bark of the rootstock tree in the shape of the letter X or T, 1.5–2 mm deep. If you carefully peel back the bark, something similar to a pocket will form. The cut bud is inserted into it and securely fixed with a strap. It can be removed when callus forms, indicating that the procedure was successful.

Fixing a bud on a scion requires the grower to have certain skills; if part of the bark sticks out of the “pocket”, this is normal

The result of the procedure will become clear in approximately 25–30 days. In addition to the formation of callus, success is indicated by the activation of cutting growth or the “awakening” of the bud. If this does not happen, the winding is carefully removed, the scion is removed, the grafting site is disinfected by washing with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and covered with garden pitch.

A growth bud that has taken root on the rootstock “wakes up” in about a month

What could be more interesting than growing some unusual and exotic plant for our area at home? For example, nectarine. However, this is not so difficult to do. This is not an exaggeration, this is true. But there are a number of specific subtleties.

We will tell you in detail how to do everything correctly so that a real nectarine tree grows from a small seed in your home.

Preparing a nectarine seed

The first step is to find suitable planting material. To do this, select a well-ripened nectarine fruit, and, after cutting the flesh, remove the seed. Leave it for two to three days to dry.

After this, you need to get an almond-shaped seed out of it. Taking a hammer, place the bone on the rib and carefully break it. It's like breaking a nut shell.

Gently break the seed with a hammer and remove the nectarine seed.

Take a half-liter jar and fill it with fertile soil. After this, bury the nectarine seeds shallowly in the ground, compact them a little and water. Then cover the jar with a lid and place it in a cool place. It's better to move it somewhere far away back wall in the refrigerator.

The fact is that nectarine seeds require exposure to cold in order to germinate. This is the peculiarity of this culture. Sometimes it takes two or three months, and sometimes all four. Moreover, all this time they do not require any care, and they do not need to be watered at all.

Periodically take out the jar and see if sprouts have appeared from under the ground. As soon as you see them, the nectarine can be planted in another container.

Another option

Sometimes you can come across advice not to place the nectarine seed in the soil at this stage, but, after wrapping it in paper, simply put it in the refrigerator for four months. Simple cooling is enough for the seed to awaken and begin to grow. After refrigeration, it is advised to keep it for a day in water at room temperature, and then plant it in the ground.

Planting nectarine

Select the strongest seeds with the strongest and longest sprouts. If you want to limit yourself to one plant, then leave one seed, since you will need to plant exactly one seed per pot.

The container should be of medium size, about two liters in volume. Fill it with good quality soil and plant the sprouted seed to a depth of three to four centimeters. Now the pot needs to be placed in a warm place.

Caring for nectarines at home

Pretty soon, literally in two weeks, a sprout should appear.

Remember the basic conditions necessary for the successful growth of nectarines:

This crop requires at least six hours of sunlight per day in summer. This means you need to keep the plant in a well-lit room, or make up for the lack of light with the help of artificial sources. In winter there is no such need for light, so sometimes it is advised to even take nectarines to the cellar in a cool place.

Nectarine loves water very much and needs frequent watering. This primarily applies to the summer season. However, moisture should not stagnate in the roots. Therefore, it is necessary to lay drainage at the bottom of the containers where it will grow and make holes in them to drain excess water. In winter, watering can be done less frequently so that the soil is only slightly moist.

Give nectarines regular and frequent feeding, especially phosphorus-containing fertilizers. You can do this once every ten days, alternate well mineral supplements with organics. This will promote flowering and fruit formation.

Prune the nectarine tree's branches to form low, horizontal branches. This will create a bush-like tree shape that is most beneficial for the space.

Subsequently, as the nectarine grows, it must be transplanted into larger containers. Replanting is done every year or two. As a result, you can reach a large tub with a volume of 40-50 liters. But when growing nectarines in a container, you have to accept that your tree won't be as big as if it were planted in the ground.

There are dwarf varieties for which 10-12 liters of soil will be enough.

Nectarine is a very fast-bearing crop, and in nature a nectarine tree begins to bear fruit in the third year. It is difficult to say whether this will happen at home, since much depends on the variety and many favorable factors are required.

When growing nectarines from seeds, trees with the same fruits do not always grow...

Nectarine in your garden

Nectarines are propagated mainly by grafting (budding). At the same time, they retain all varietal characteristics.

The best rootstocks for nectarines – peach and almond. And on in heavy, waterlogged soils with close (less than 1.5 m) groundwater levels, it can be used as a rootstock seedlings of cherry plum or domestic plum. However, they are not compatible enough with some varieties of nectarines.

To grow nectarine from seed It is necessary, if possible, to pay attention to the nectarines growing on your site or on the sites of your neighbors, and see which are more stable and productive.

Planting nectarine seeds in summer, autumn and spring, away from mature trees (3 - 4 m) and the shadow of the house. The landing site should be protected from cold winter winds with enough sunlight.

In the south, in order to grow nectarine from a seed, nectarine seeds without shells can be planted immediately after picking the fruit from the tree. To do this, remove the seeds from nectarine fruits and soak them for at least three days. The water in which the nectarine seeds are located must be changed at least twice a day. After the seeds have been soaked in water, they must be dried so that direct sunlight does not fall on them.

In order to grow nectarines from seeds, they are planted in a kind of school. To do this, dig a trench, fill it with fertile, fertilized soil, plant nectarine seeds to a depth of 5–6 cm with a distance of 20–25 cm and water abundantly. For the winter they are well covered (sawdust, leaves, grass, etc.).

To grow nectarines from seeds, you can also plant them before winter; during the cold period, the seeds will undergo stratification (aging) and self-select. However, nectarine seeds should not be soaked.

It is better to plant nectarine seeds in October or November and also cover them well for the winter.

In spring you need take off covering layer, leaving a few centimeters so that the soil does not dry out. From a nectarine seed, a root is first formed, and only later a stem is formed. Therefore, the soil needs to be loose, soft and fertilized.

Water Nectarine seeds are needed daily.

Preferably feed seedlings with diluted humus and sprinkle with special preparations (Ridomil or Tiovit), small nectarines, like peaches, are very painful.

If you decide that you will start growing nectarine from seed in the spring, and there is a danger of damage to the seeds by rodents, then store the nectarine seeds indoors until December - January, and then stratify. To do this, one part of nectarine seeds is mixed with three parts of a substrate of sawdust, sand or a mixture of sawdust and sand, moistened and placed in a plastic bag or clay pot, placed in a cool room or put in a refrigerator with a temperature of plus 3 - 5 °. During the winter they are periodically moistened to maintain constant moisture. Sprouted nectarine seeds are sown in the ground.

Nectarine seedlings are well looked after and watered. Already in the third year, seedlings can bear fruit.

However, it should still be remembered that when growing nectarines from seeds, trees with the same fruits from which the seeds were taken do not always grow.

Pruning and shaping the crown of nectarine. When pruned, a nectarine, like a peach, forms a cup-shaped (vase-shaped) crown that does not have a central conductor. Nectarine is a light-loving plant and this type of crown allows most branches to have better access to light.

The nectarine trunk is 40 - 50 cm long and usually has 3, rarely 4 skeletal branches of the first order, which can be derived from adjacent buds or placed at intervals of 5 - 10 cm from one another.

Nectarine is a delicious fruit brought to us from southern countries. Many people prefer nectarines for their beautiful smooth shape and taste, a little reminiscent of a peach.

It turns out that this wonderful plant takes root well and bears fruit in our country. These are, first of all, the varieties “Ruby 8”, “Fantasy”, “Stark Delicious”, their fruits are considered to be the most delicious.

Nectarine fruits do not cause allergies; proper storage they can be preserved for a long time, the skin is dense, so they can easily be transported.

Summer residents propagate nectarines in two ways: seedlings and seeds. The seedlings are grafted onto the peach tree and the first fruits are harvested the following year. Reproduction using seedlings requires some skill and dexterity, but propagation using seeds is within the capabilities of any “beginner” summer resident.

How to grow nectarine from seed?

The seeds for planting should be selected as strong and “reliable” as possible, that is, they should be extracted from the latest nectarine fruits that have reached maturity. Seeds collected at the end of summer have the best germination rate.

Drying bones are placed in a dry room for a couple of days. They are then soaked for a week, and the water must be drained and replaced with fresh water daily. After soaking, the seeds should be planted in a small flower pot(in winter).

Over the winter, some seeds should sprout and gradually several sprouts will grow from them. They need to be watered (as needed) as usual. houseplant, young shoots are not picky.

In early spring, the strongest ones are selected from the sprouts and planted in a summer cottage. Basic care for seedlings is as follows. It is necessary to water on time and “feed” a couple of times (the first time during planting, the second time a month later). There should be no weeds or garden waste around the tree.

Nectarine adapts well and grows in loamy and sandy loam soils. For planting you need to choose the southern part garden plot. The plant should receive the maximum amount of sunlight during the day. A peach tree should not grow near a nectarine; this risks the nectarine becoming infected with various diseases, the main ones of which are considered fungal.

In the first years, a plant grown from seeds will begin to bear fruits, the quality of which will be low, but gradually the tree will get stronger and begin to bear fruit fully. If a nectarine is grown in an area where summers are damp and cold, the tree will not bear fruit.

For many of us, the peach is still an exotic fruit that can only be enjoyed by purchasing it at the market. But there are gardeners who have already tried to grow peaches on their own. Some succeeded, but others violated agricultural practices and the young peach disappeared.

If you also want to grow a peach, then you will benefit from the valuable experience of successfully growing peach from experienced gardeners. Moreover, you can even grow a peach from a pit, so you don’t even have to buy seedlings or engage in grafting. The first thing you have to do is buy several large ripe, but not spoiled, peach tree fruits at the point of sale.

It will be very good if these are fruits from a rooted tree and not a grafted one. We also advise you to buy peaches “from hand” from gardeners. Since their fruits will be taken from trees bearing fruit in your area, and not brought from abroad.

A pit from a zoned peach has a better chance of germinating and surviving in your climate. So, after enjoying the juicy pulp of a peach, carefully examine the seeds. Select those that have no defects.

Secrets of growing peach from pit

You need to plant peach pits in open ground before winter (October, November). If you do this in spring or summer, young seedlings may not have time to get stronger and will freeze in winter.

The most optimal for planting are the seeds of late, mid-late and medium varieties of peach. It is recommended to plant the seeds immediately after removing them from the fruit, while they are still wet. If this is not possible, they will have to be stratified.

To speed up germination, some gardeners recommend soaking the seeds in clean water for a couple of days. The water must be changed 2 times a day. Then the seeds should be removed from the water and allowed to dry, after which, by hitting them with a hammer, the seed should be extracted.

But it’s not at all necessary to do this. Now let’s figure it out. Peach pits should be planted in loose, soft and well-fertilized soil. The distance to the nearest trees should be at least 3 meters, because peach loves the sun very much.

Make several rows at a distance of 50 cm from each other, in each row, after 10 cm, lay out the seeds and fill the holes with earth, then mulch with grass (the thicker the layer, the better). In the spring, after germination, begin to water the sprouts generously with water. It wouldn’t hurt to feed the young trees with humus and spray them against pests and diseases. By the end of summer, if everything goes well, your trees will already be about 1.5 meters high, and they will begin to grow side branches. If you want to transplant the tree to a new location , you need to prepare a hole for him at least 1 meter deep in the fall.

The place should be sunny and protected from the wind. Next spring you can transplant the young tree to a new place. After transplanting, the peach should be thoroughly watered with settled water and mulched with manure or peat.

But before that, remove all diseased and frozen branches. Peach branches need to be trimmed every spring, forming a cup-shaped crown.

When can we expect the first peach harvest?

peach grown from the pit, You will see already in 3, maximum 4 years. But be prepared for the fact that you will grow a semi-wild variety of peaches, and not an exact likeness of the ones you bought. But your peach will delight you with resistance to diseases and abundant harvests. It’s as simple as that!

Landing Features

We have already told you how and when to plant a peach. Now let’s look at how to choose the optimal terrain and calculate the distances between trees. So, question number 1: Where is the best place to plant a peach? Choose the most illuminated place on the site.

The tree is southern and grows well only if it is saturated with sunlight. The more light that reaches the plantings, the juicier the fruits will be. It is advisable that cold air does not stagnate in the selected location.

And remember about moisture; if there is a lack of it, the skin of the fruit will crack. Mulch the tree trunk circle (if groundwater located too deep) and water the plant periodically. Before planting a peach orchard, be sure to calculate the minimum spacing between the trees.

It is equal to the sum of the heights of adult peach plants. Don't trust schemes floating around the Internet. They suggest the possibility of landing maximum quantity trees on the site. There is no question of harvest.

Understand that the quantity and quality of fruits directly depends on the created growing conditions for plants. The more acceptable the situation (ample sun, water, proper care, etc.), the higher the fruitfulness.

Agree, it is better to collect 10 buckets of fruit from one tree than 6-7 bowls from three plants. More detailed information about the distance can be found on our website in the garden care section.

Having decided to grow this crop from seed, you should know how to plant a peach pit correctly, because the success of the work largely depends on this: good rooting, full growth, and subsequent productivity. For planting, it is recommended to take the seeds of ripened fruits of grafted and own-rooted trees.

Seedlings grown from the fruit seed of a native tree will receive 70 - 80% of the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. A peach obtained from the seed of the fruit of a grafted plant is grafted when the thickness of the trunk at the root collar is about 1 cm.

Planting can be done in different times year. Experienced gardeners prefer to plant the seeds of this tree before winter (in October-November), since during the cold period they will undergo natural stratification, and only the strongest of them will sprout.

When planting in spring and summer, weak, immature seedlings may not tolerate winter frosts. Planting peaches in the fall will be most successful if you use varieties of medium, mid-late and late ripening.

Before embedding in the ground, the seeds must be dried in the shade. fresh air. If planting will take place in a few days, the seeds should be placed in a container with warm water for several days. Change the water 2 times a day.

After stratification, the seeds are dried and carefully pricked so that, without damaging the seed, it can be removed from the hard shell.

How to plant a peach pit correctly: choosing a site

If the garden has the opportunity to choose a site for planting a peach, it is recommended to place it on sunny place, since light and heat are necessary for the ripening of fruits, proper growth of shoots and the formation of flower buds of this crop. Peach can withstand slight shading, but this will negatively affect its fruiting.

Heat-loving fruit plant cannot be planted where there is stagnation of cold air. During flowering, a temperature of 1 - 2 °C below 0 °C can destroy future harvest. Before planting a peach from the pit into the ground, you need to prepare the soil in advance.

Despite its capriciousness to growing conditions, the tree can grow well in almost any soil if there is good drainage. You can get an idea about the drainage of a garden plot using the following observations.

If the soil is poorly dug up, heavily compacted, and after rain puddles remain on it, this indicates a high clay content in it. Moisture is absorbed into such soil very slowly and also leaves slowly.

You can improve its condition with peat, manure or compost. Soils that retain water for a long time must be drained, otherwise the roots will rot after a while and the tree itself will die.

If the soil is too loose, loose, and dries out quickly, this indicates an excess of sand or gravel, or a lack of nutrients. In this case, you should enter organic fertilizer, helping to retain moisture longer and enrich the soil with essential nutrients.

The ideal soil for planting peach is considered slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.5. Lime is added to excessively acidic soil (pH below 5.8). This work is carried out a month before applying fertilizers or a month after that.

When preparing the area where the tree will grow, the soil is cleared of weeds. In case of severe contamination, herbicides are used. Before planting, apply organic fertilizer to improve the soil structure. The amount of fertilizer depends on its condition and composition.

The prepared peach seed is immediately planted in open ground to a depth of 6 - 8 cm at a distance of at least 2 - 3 m from other trees and nearby buildings that cast shadows. Some time after planting the peach, roots begin to form from the pit, then a stem.

In the first month after sowing the seeds, the soil should be kept loose and moderately moist. During the summer, the seedling grows up to 130 cm, after which the crown begins to develop, which must be correctly formed in the first year of the plant’s life. In the fall, strong side branches are left, they will form the skeleton of the crown, the rest are cut “under the ring.”

Planting and replanting peach

In the spring of the second year, you can transplant the plant to a permanent place. Planting peach in the spring should be done as early as possible, immediately after the soil warms up.

On the day of transplanting the peach, you need to dig a hole of such depth and width that the roots of the seedling can easily fit in it. At the bottom of the hole, mix rotted turf, manure, peat or compost with the soil. When placing the plant in a hole, use pruning shears to remove any roots that are too long.

When placing the tree, it is important to ensure that the root collar is at soil level. Once placed, you can fill the hole. First, sprinkle the roots with the top layer of soil, then with the rest of the soil, constantly shaking the seedling so that the soil passes between the roots.

When completing planting, you should press down the soil and level the surface. Cover the trunk circle with a layer of mulch, using rotted manure, peat or compost. It is recommended to tie a one-year-old seedling to a stake with a plastic bundle, folding it in the shape of a figure eight. Two-year-old seedlings need a stronger bond, but a spacer should be placed between the stake and the trunk to avoid damage to the bark.

Planting a peach from a pit (with video)

For the first 2 - 3 years, until the young plant gets stronger for the winter, it must be insulated with sawdust, grass or fallen leaves. Trees growing near walls can be protected from frost by covering them with straw or burlap. In central Russia, this crop often suffers from lack of moisture, frostbite and infection with fungal diseases. To successfully grow a tree, you need to choose varieties with increased winter hardiness and carry out proper peach care, including annual pruning of the crown, fertilization, spraying on dry, hot days, watering and pest control. Knowing how to plant a peach and following all the recommendations in practice, after 3 - 4 years the gardener will receive the first harvest of fruits. You can watch a video about planting a peach below:

While feasting on juicy peaches, some people wonder: is it really possible to grow a peach tree in your own garden? Yes, it’s possible, and you don’t even have to buy peach seedlings for this. The Land of Soviets will tell how to grow a peach from a pit. Suitable for growing seeds of ripe, juicy, but not spoiled fruits. It is best to use peaches of varieties typical for your area for this purpose. “Alien” varieties will either grow poorly or not take root at all. It is also good if you can find out on which tree the fruit grew - self-rooted or grafted. Preference should be given to the first. Carefully inspect the seeds selected for planting: they must be intact, without defects. Seeds are planted in open ground in October-November (before winter). If you try to grow a peach from a pit in summer or spring, the seedlings will not have time to grow stronger and may not survive the winter. In addition, the seeds of early ripening varieties may not germinate at all; for planting it is better to take seeds of medium, mid-late and late dates maturation. You need to plant seeds as quickly as possible, without allowing them to dry out., otherwise you will have to stratify them. Sometimes, before planting, the seeds are prepared by soaking them in water for several days (the water needs to be changed twice a day). The seeds are then allowed to dry and pricked with a hammer to extract the seed (this must be done carefully so as not to damage the delicate kernel). However, such preparation is not mandatory. Peach pits should be planted in soft, loose, well-fertilized soil. at a distance of at least 3-4 m from adult fruit-bearing trees. The depth of planting seeds is approximately 5-8 cm (no deeper), the distance between plantings in a row should be approximately 10 cm, the distance between rows should be 50 cm. It is better to plant more seeds than you want to get peach trees, because not all of them will sprout , but it’s good if it’s half. After planting, you need to mulch the crops with a thick layer of grass. In the spring, when the shoots sprout, they will need. It is advisable to feed the peach with diluted humus and spray it with special preparations to prevent disease. Over the summer, the peach seedling will reach a height of about one and a half meters, and side branches will begin to appear on it. When the main trunk reaches a height of 70 cm, you can begin to practice. However, the main pruning is performed next spring, removing diseased and frozen branches. In the future Peach pruning is carried out annually, in spring, during the period between the appearance of pink buds and flowering. The crown of the tree is shaped like a bowl. Every year you need to leave shoots along the axes of skeletal branches of any order for fruiting (the distance between the shoots is 15-20 cm), the rest should be cut “into a ring” (i.e. for the entire branch). Also next spring you can replant the peach to a permanent place. To replant, you need to dig a hole at least a meter deep in the fall in the sunniest and wind-protected place on the site. After planting, water the peach with two or three buckets of settled water and mulch with peat or rotted manure. Usually, a peach begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year.. Please note that there is no guarantee that you will be able to grow an exact copy of the peach you like from the seed; most likely, it will grow “semi-savage”. But peaches grown from pits own plot, are usually more resistant to diseases and vagaries of weather, they freeze less in winter and produce more abundant harvests. As you can see, it is quite possible to grow a peach from a stone, the main thing is to follow simple rules, stated above. With a little patience, you can enjoy peaches grown in your own garden.

How to grow nectarine from seed at home? (1 of 2)

Everyone at least once in their life has tried some exotic or man-made fruit through crossing. An example is nectarine. Therefore, we need to tell you how to grow nectarines from seeds at home. You will need:

• Drainage

Often, some people have the idea of ​​growing nectarines at home. The article will reveal several secrets of growing nectarines. Nectarine is a familiar peach, but it distinctive feature there is a smooth surface.

There is a myth that nectarine is a mixture of peach and plum. But in fact, a mutation led to the appearance of this fruit. It is because of this that you can find both nectarine fruits and the peach itself on a peach tree.

However, having practically the same origin, they still differ in composition. Compared to peach, nectarine is richer in microelements such as organic acids, compounds of phosphorus, potassium, iron, fructose, glucose, etc. Nectarine also contains twice as much provitamin A.

How to grow nectarine from a seed at home so that you always have fruits with therapeutic and preventive properties on hand? After all, these fruits not only improve the digestion process (allow you to speed up the absorption of “heavy” food), but also have a positive effect on vascular system human body.

Nectarine is also used to remove toxins and other substances from the body. harmful substances. In addition, nectarine is used by cosmetologists. Balms, creams, and aromatic oils are produced based on this fruit.

The fruit helps keep the body in good shape. It should be noted that growing a tree that would bear nectarine fruits is not so easy and to implement this idea you will first need a positive attitude.

Growing P E R S I K A and A B R I K O S A

First you need to purchase point of sale or, if possible, pick a nectarine fruit from the tree, which should be quite ripe, aromatic and tasty. In this case, preference should be given to more late varieties, since they are the ones who have the ability to preserve the taste properties of the mother tree.

Before growing nectarine from a seed, you should remove these seeds. That is, the next step is to separate the seeds from the selected fruits. It should be remembered that they must also be of high quality - without cracks or other damage.

After thoroughly cleaning the seeds from the pulp tissues, they should be subjected to minor heat treatment (maximum a couple of hours) to dry them.

The next step is soaking the prepared seeds, which should last from 4 to 6 days. In this case, a mandatory condition is a daily change of water in the vessel. By coincidence specified period carry out the stratification process.

It involves placing the seeds in a box filled with river sand and sawdust. The box (it can also be a pot) must have drainage holes, the presence of which allows you to regulate the amount of humidity (obtained during watering). After all, excess moisture can lead to rotting of the seeds.

After the above steps have been completed, the container with the hidden seeds should be placed in the ground. The box or pot should be level with the ground plane.

After watering the buried container, you need to cover the area with several layers of grass and sawdust. It should be remembered that the protective so-called blanket must reach at least 10 cm in height. And fallen snow can also be used to cover this area.

As you know, snow is an excellent protector against sudden and uncontrolled soil freezing. How to plant nectarines from seeds at home in order to enjoy their taste in the future?

It is important to take into account that all of the above actions should be carried out at the end of autumn. The seeds planted in this way overwinter, and with the arrival of spring, after they germinate, they need to be transplanted to a permanent place.

But that's not all. The owner’s attention is important, because its further fruiting depends on the quality of care for the young seedling.

He needs enough frequent watering and feeding, and from time to time it is necessary to give it special treatment, since small pests can destroy the nectarine tree. Although, it is interesting to know that the peach tree is much weaker in relation to such diseases. It is recommended to carry out selection only after the first harvest, because then it is possible to reliably assess which seedlings should be selected.

Mango from the seed.

Therefore, in the spring, the right decision would be to give a chance to all the trees that managed to survive the cold season. Thus, if you take into account all the mentioned subtleties in the process of growing a nectarine tree, you can achieve good results.

Soon the seedlings will acquire immunity, which will allow them to develop quite actively in the future. And after several years, the nectarine tree will bear its first fruits. Most likely, they will be slightly smaller than normal sizes, but taste qualities will not differ from those purchased in the store.

There is a stereotype that you can’t grow a cultivated tree from a seed or seed, it will turn out wild, and in order to be convinced of this “truth”, it is suggested to wait 7-10 years for fruiting. But over time, this myth, created by seedling sellers, collapses regarding many crops. These include peach and nectarine.

Peach and nectarine from seed: successful cultivation practice

Amateur gardeners have already grown, tested and share on the Internet, on forums and in videos, their successful experience in growing these fruit crops from seeds. It turns out that the tree grows and bears its first fruits in the second or third year. Of course, in the conditions of the middle zone and Siberia, a southern fruit will not grow into a tree with large fruits; peaches and nectarines will be smaller, but the taste and aroma will remain.

Nectarine is a subspecies of peach. The plant is not a hybrid, but created by nature. Scientists discovered such a mutation in natural conditions (a peach with smooth fruits) and fixed it by growing cultivated seedlings from its seeds. Therefore, all technologies for growing peach from stone are also valid for its direct relative - nectarine.

Having been born in a new region, the tree will begin to adapt to the local climate. However, at the genetic level, this crop is still heat-loving. Although there are winter-hardy peach varieties (Zimostoykiy, Frost, White swan etc.). Their wood can withstand frosts of -30... -40 °C, but flower buds die already at -20... -22 °C. That is, the tree will grow, but in the spring it will not bloom, there will be no fruit. Therefore, in the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation there are no varieties zoned for the middle zone and Siberia.

Residents of the northern regions have not accepted this state of affairs. They also grow peaches and nectarines on their plots and cottages, but in stale form. As for southerners, residents of Ukraine, Krasnodar region, Crimea, then they can grow sweet fruits from seeds without any fear.

Peach seedlings in the southern regions appear from self-sowing

They say that trees made from seeds do not repeat the varietal properties of the mother plant. But no one bothers you to select from several seedlings those that correspond to the variety. You can again take seeds from them and sow the second generation, thereby securing the desired qualities.

Video: a peach grown from a pit is already bearing fruit

Planting peach and nectarine seeds at home

Most often, seeds for propagating peaches are simply buried in the garden in the fall and seedlings are observed in the spring. But if you want to control the whole process, and not suffer from the unknown until spring, or you decided to plant in the spring, then there are growing options for such cases.

Where can I get bones and how to prepare them?

To obtain planting material, most gardeners in our country will have to go to the market or hypermarket at the end of summer and buy the ripest and sweetest peaches or nectarines and remove the seeds from them. Southerners and Ukrainians only need to come to the garden in the summer and reach out to pick ripe fruits from their own or a neighbor’s tree.

Before autumn sowing, wash and dry fresh seeds. If they were stored all winter until spring and dried out, then perform two simple manipulations:

1. Soak in rain or melt water for 8–10 hours.
2. Keep for 3-4 days in damp sawdust or a cloth at room temperature.

Correct sowing time

It is not advisable to keep peaches and nectarines at home for a long time! In conditions of stagnation of air, its dryness or, conversely, high humidity, seedlings get sick with blackleg, spider mites settle on the leaves. It happens that grains rot before they even have time to sprout.

Sow when it is warm, there is a lot of sunlight on the windowsills, and the vents and windows are often open. The sooner the seedlings find themselves in your climate, the faster they will adapt to it, get stronger and better prepare for winter. However, they can be planted in open ground only after the end of return frosts. That's why optimal time sowing seeds - 1–1.2 months before the onset of warm weather plus 2 weeks for seedlings to emerge. It turns out that in Siberia you can sow in April, in Moscow and the region - in March-April, in the south of the Russian Federation and Ukraine - in February-March.

Stratification

Sowing with stratification is not the only method, but it is the most reliable. Seeds are sent for stratification 3–4 months before sowing, that is, in the south the process begins in November, in the north - in early February.

For Ukraine and the South, there is also this option: start stratification in February, and in April sow the seeds directly into the ground, bypassing cultivation on the windowsill.

Certification stages:

1. Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place in a plastic bag. Poke holes in it with a toothpick first so that the seeds can breathe.
2. Place the package at the very bottom of the refrigerator. The optimal temperature is +1… +5 °C.
3. Once a week, take out the seeds, unwrap them, wash them clean water, change the bag and napkin to prevent mold and rot.

Seeds may germinate in the refrigerator ahead of schedule. You will have to immediately sow them and take extra care: protect them from diseases and pests, provide additional lighting. The reason for premature germination is the temperature in the refrigerator is higher than optimal. This can be avoided by monitoring not only the seeds, but also the temperature inside the refrigerator.

There is an opinion that the speed of germination during stratification depends on the variety; some germinate after 2 months.

Sprouted seeds should be immediately planted in the ground.

Soil preparation

All-purpose soil from the store or your own, mixed with humus and any baking powder (perlite, vermiculite, coconut fiber, sand) in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 is suitable. Disease fungi and pest larvae can live in both your own and store-bought mixtures; disinfection is necessary. Heat the soil until steaming in the oven, microwave or stove. This is done a week before sowing, or you can roast the soil in the fall on the grill.

Sowing seeds at home

Fill glasses or pots with a volume of 200–300 ml, always with drainage holes, with prepared soil mixture, water with melted water, rain water, or, in extreme cases, tap and settled water. Place the seeds in cups, pressing them into the ground to a depth of no more than 1 cm. Gardeners have noticed that when planted at a greater depth, the grain rots after the shell is cracked, without having time to germinate.

Not always and not everyone can understand: along which edge the bone will crack, from which end the root will appear. When planting on an edge, it may turn out that the root is directed upward and the cotyledons downward. To properly orientate itself, the sprout will need additional time and effort. Therefore, the bones are not placed on the end, but flat.

Place the bone flat, not on the edge

Cover the crops with film and take them to a warm (about +25 °C), or maybe dark, place and wait for shoots, regularly opening, ventilating and moistening.

Keep the crops in a warm place under covers or film

The germination rate of peaches and nectarines is low - about 50%.

Sowing with a kernel from a seed

The method is not easy, because the peach pit is thick-walled, it is difficult to crack it without damaging the contents. They use pliers, hammers, chisels, and knives. But it’s safer for your fingers and kernels to use a vice. The bone is clamped between moving planes and gradually contracts until it splits.

The walls of the seeds are very thick, it is difficult to split them

The grain can be sown immediately in a glass or first germinated in a cloth. As eyewitnesses say: shoots appear from a stratified seed after 2 weeks, and from a nucleolus - after 14 days. That is, there is no difference in the germination rate.

The nucleoli were not buried, there is a positive result: the root collar is exposed to air, has not rotted, the plants are developing

Caring for seedlings at home

Provide seedlings with conditions as close to natural as possible. Keep them on the brightest and warmest windowsill; on fine days, open the entire window. A temperature difference is required: during the day - from 23 °C to 30 °C, at night - 18... 20 °C. Do not turn the seedlings to the glass with different sides, do not move them from place to place. Mark the side of the pot facing the light with a marker. Always maintain this position, and when planting in the ground, orient the seedling with the marked side to the south.

Other home care:

• watering as the soil dries out;
• fertilizing once every 10 days with a complex mixture of Fertika Lux;
• timely detection of pests, diseases and their control.

Transplantation into open ground

The school for growing seedlings is prepared in the fall or early spring, as soon as the ground warms up. Choose a sunny place, without flooding by rain and melt water. It is desirable that there is good snow cover here in winter. Usually such an area is found near the wall of a house or barn.

Scatter fertilizers over the surface of the bed, using per 1 m2: a bucket of humus and a glass of ash. You can replace the ash with superphosphate - 20 g/m2 and potassium sulfate - 15 g/m2.

How to transplant seedlings:

In the future, monitor the soil moisture and cleanliness of the bed, weed out the weeds. For the winter, build a hut for the seedlings from spruce branches or brushwood and agrofibre. Trees that have undergone natural selection and awakened in the spring can be transplanted to a permanent location.

Video: peach from the pit (Ukraine)

Nectarines and stone peaches grow quickly and begin bearing fruit early. In the northern regions they are grown in stale form through seedlings. In Ukraine and the south of the Russian Federation, thanks to the early and warm spring, seeds can be sown in the ground immediately after stratification, bypassing the stage on the windowsill.