Planting juniper in open ground and further care. Caring for juniper in autumn, preparing for winter, feeding juniper in spring

Junipers are old-timers of the earth's flora; they appeared about 50 million years ago. The species of junipers are very diverse - among them there are giants up to 30 m tall and bizarre elfin trees that rise from the ground barely 10–15 cm. Now over 60 species and 150 decorative forms junipers, of which 22 species and 25 cultivars are cultivated in Russia.

Soft needles of various colors, delicate aroma, undemandingness to growing conditions - these are the reasons why gardeners and designers are attracted to junipers. Junipers are planted in alleys, grown on alpine hills and in rock gardens. At any time of the year they are good in garden compositions with other conifers.

Despite its unpretentiousness, juniper from the forest does not take root well in the garden; if it has taken root, it means you have light hand and gardening happiness. But it’s better not to tempt fate, but to immediately plant a seedling of an already cultivated species. Moreover, there are a great many of them.

Species diversity of juniper

Of the many types of juniper, about a dozen and a half are used to decorate the site. Based on each of them, many varieties have been bred. We list the hardiest and easiest to grow varieties.

Common juniper. This species is most widespread in wildlife Russia. Depending on its shape, it can be either a two-meter shrub or a spreading fifteen-meter tree. It is easiest to grow it with your own hands, because common juniper can easily tolerate drought, frost, and poor soils.

In addition, it is better suited for cutting than other types. The most the best varieties- these are columnar Hibernica, Goldcon with yellow needles and Meyer blue. An interesting variety is Pendula with a weeping crown, as well as the spherical Echinoformis. Of the low-growing forms, Hornibrook, Repanda and Nana Aurea. Their height does not exceed half a meter.

Red cedar. As the name suggests, this species comes from North America. But it winters well here too. There is another name: pencil tree. Once upon a time, pencils and souvenirs were made from it. The species is distinguished by the rapid ripening of fruits: it takes one season, not two or three. In the autumn months, blue berries look good against a background of green needles or scales.

Particular attention is paid to such varieties of Virginian juniper as Pyramidiformis and Shotti. They are ten-meter trees with beautiful light green needles, and in Pyramidiformis they change color to purple by winter. Other tall varieties are Polymorpha and Filifera with bluish-colored needles. The Chamberlaini variety forms a wide and lush crown. Albospicata, Helle and Glauka are more compact, their height does not exceed 5 m. Kosteri is a creeping variety for an alpine hill or lawn.

Juniper Cossack widespread. It can be found in the Caucasus, Crimea, in some countries of Europe and Asia up to China. This is an unpretentious shrub, the height of which can reach four meters, but usually does not exceed 1.5 m. Cossack juniper has a particularly pronounced aroma, but some of its varieties are poisonous. The shrub is often used in rock gardens. For example, the Tamariszofolia variety with bluish needles is suitable for this. The variegated Variegata is also interesting; its needles at the end are colored yellow or white. Erecta, a neat pyramidal tree up to two meters high, is popular.

Juniperus chinensis growing in China and Japan, respectively. This is a mountain tree. It is interesting because it grows on vertical slopes and develops in a suspended state thanks to its tenacious roots. This valuable species, which is used to strengthen slopes, and is also in demand in rock gardens. Good varieties- this is a lush five-meter Hetzi with gray-blue needles, a four-meter Pfitzeriana with light green needles and a three-meter spreading Japonica. There is also the Gold Coast variety, which is a yellow-gold shrub.

Juniper Daurian thrives in eastern Russia in Siberia and the Far Eastern region. It is a creeping shrub no more than half a meter high, but its branches extend 3 meters around. They say that cone berries of this type are especially suitable for tinctures. The Expanza variety is distinguished by a beautiful light blue shade of needles.

Can I also mention juniper Siberian. He is close to the Ordinary and just as unpretentious. It is more compact and decorative. This species grows slowly, and the young fluffy branches make it very elegant. Junipers are also common Scaly And Horizontal.

Planting juniper seedlings

Due to their decorative properties, junipers - good choice for a young garden, when a group of several conifers can immediately after planting fill the voids in the landscape and form an attractive composition. To plant light-loving junipers, select an open, well-lit garden area with loamy or sandy loamy light soil - nutritious and sufficiently moist.

If the soil is clayey and heavy, then a mixture of garden soil, peat, sand and coniferous soil (loose soil with needles, collected under spruce or pine trees in the forest) is added to the planting hole. In this case, the soil is first drained by pouring broken brick or sand into the bottom of the planting hole. Junipers grow well on thin soils and can easily tolerate drought, but stagnation of moisture in the soil is detrimental to them.

The most successful soil mixture for planting juniper is: 2 parts turf soil, 2 parts humus, 2 parts peat, 1 part sand. It is also advisable to add 150 g of Kemira-station wagon and 300 g of nitrophoska to the mixture, as well as Epin after planting (for optimal survival) for each seedling.

The dimensions of the planting hole depend on the size of the juniper root system, for example, for large species they dig a hole of about 60x80 cm. The plant is planted quickly so that the root system does not have time to dry out, but carefully so as not to damage the earth ball or young roots. After landing in open ground juniper is watered abundantly and protected from direct sunlight.

The density of placement of juniper on the site depends on landscape composition– will it be hedge, soliter or group planting. For junipers, the distance between seedlings when planting is selected in the range from 0.5 to 2 m. For a small garden, it is better to choose compact types of juniper.

Growing juniper from seeds

When collecting juniper seeds for sowing, it is important to observe time intervals - it is better to prepare not quite ripened seeds at the end of summer than to prepare fully ripe ones in the fall. This will make germination more likely. The collected planting material must be sown immediately, but you need to be prepared for the fact that, due to the hard shell, the juniper seeds will sprout only 2-3 years after sowing.

You can plant a juniper dug up in the forest on the site, having previously marked on its trunk the orientation according to the parts of the world in order to maximally imitate the characteristics of its growth in the natural environment when transplanting. The lump of “native” soil should be large, with the top layer of humus preserved.

Rules of care

Watering and feeding

Juniper in a flowerpot The plant can withstand a long period without watering. However, in hot, dry summers it is recommended to water it at least once a month. They also periodically arrange a shower using a spray bottle or other sprayers. The procedure is carried out every week in the early morning or evening, when the sun is not as active as during the day.

In spring, nitroammophos is added to the soil under the plant at the rate of 45 g per square meter. During the summer, you can fertilize juniper with organic or mineral fertilizers no more than once a month. Such fertilizing is carried out if the tree grows slower than expected.

Unpretentious and unpretentious juniper does not require much attention. However, by following some rules, you will preserve the beautiful appearance of the plant and ensure a long life.

Transfer

It is carried out only in case of emergency, because there is no guarantee that the juniper will take root in the new place. Juniper absolutely does not like replanting!

If you still decide, prepare the optimal soil. It is best to mix coniferous soil, peat, sand in equal parts. After placing in a new location, water the tree thoroughly.

Plant pruning

The plant itself does not require pruning at all. All that is necessary is to remove dry branches at any time. However, when forming beautiful crown You can cut off excess branches using a sharpened tool. You cannot cut too many branches at once - the tree may get sick.

Caring for juniper in winter

Young plants are covered with lutrasil or other similar material in the first couple of years. Older plants with a spreading crown are tied with rope or twine to prevent branches from breaking due to snow. You can also periodically shake off the snow from the tree.

In winter, the formed crowns of junipers may fall apart under the weight of snow, and some branches may break. To avoid such troubles, the crowns of formed junipers are tied in advance in the fall. Selected species junipers are sensitive to changes in day and night temperatures in early spring, active winter and spring sun and require shelter in February-March. Burns of pine needles lead to a change in the green color of the crown of conifers to a brownish-yellow hue and, consequently, to the loss of decorativeness of the juniper.

If the buds of the conifer remain alive during a sunburn, then the young shoots gradually cover the burned areas, but if the buds are dead, then the frost-damaged branches must be cut back to healthy wood and treated with garden varnish. In order for juniper needles to remain bright in winter, the plant must be regularly watered, fertilized in the spring and late summer with granular bait, and the needles must be sprayed with microfertilizers.

Juniper care in spring

When the sun becomes active and the snow slowly melts, a very dangerous period begins for all types of junipers. They may die if measures are not taken.

The sun can literally burn needles that were previously under the snow or simply unaccustomed to the scorching rays. To prevent this, it is necessary to shade the plants using burlap, thin cloth or other covering material.

After the snow melts, the covering material is removed, and the tree trunk circle is cleared of fallen leaves and other organic debris. The mulch layer is removed, as it can lead to rotting of the roots. The soil is dug up or loosened. When the soil dries out and the threat of rotting goes away, add a fresh layer of mulch.

Diseases and pests

Juniper diseases:

• Rust. The needles become dirty orange and then dry out. The reason is that a lot of salts are concentrated in the soil. This can happen if animals choose a tree as a toilet.
• If the needles first turn yellow and then die, it means the plant is suffering from excess moisture. This occurs due to heavy rains or floods, waterlogging due to natural causes, increased levels groundwater. Lack of moisture in the ground and air manifests itself with the same symptoms.
• Red growths on the trunk and branches. In dry weather they are no more than 0.5 cm, after rain they increase 3 times. The tree was attacked by rust fungi. To get rid of the scourge, it is recommended to promptly remove the affected branches and shoots. Increase the resistance of juniper using immunostimulants and microfertilizers.
• Schutte mushroom attack. At the beginning of the season, last year's needles turn orange or brown, but do not fall off. Subsequently, small black round growths appear on it. The fungus attacks weakened plants in the shade. It especially loves humidity and is not afraid of cold weather. Damaged branches must be immediately cut off and burned, and the juniper should be sprayed with sulfur and copper preparations.
• Drying of branches and bark is caused by various fungi. Because of them, growths form on the tree in the form of red warts and longitudinal wood ulcers. To prevent diseases, copper preparations are used, which are used to treat plants in spring and autumn. All open scratches and cuts are disinfected with copper sulfate.

Juniper is affected by the following pests:

Growing trees in the country does not present any particular difficulties, except for the lack of space. small areas. Still, juniper requires a fairly large area - up to 2 m in diameter.

Caring for juniper in the garden

Caring for it is no different from growing conditions in other places, but the plant brings considerable benefits. By releasing a large amount of phytoncides, it protects surrounding trees from invasion of pests and diseases.

Many people notice an improvement in the quality of fruits after planting juniper trees.

The undeniable advantage of juniper is its excellent decorative properties and absolute undemandingness to growing conditions. However, despite the vitality and unpretentiousness of this shrub, some stages of its care should not be ignored. So, even before planting a plant on a plot, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the technology of its fertilization.

Normal growth and development coniferous bush are provided with sufficient content of the following micro- and macroelements in the soil:

• magnesium;
• potassium;
• iron;
• copper;
• manganese;
• zinc;
• phosphorus.

The listed components of the juniper diet are needed to maintain the rich color of the needles, ensure resistance to various diseases and pests, and increase the plant’s defenses. Magnesium is especially important for shrubs: the quality of photosynthesis processes in the above-ground part of the plant depends on it, and without potassium, phosphorus and boron, it is difficult for junipers to survive the cold.

Fertilizers and fertilizers

Young juniper bushes are fed annually, starting from 2 years after planting them in open ground. Adult plants require fertilizing less often - once every 2-3 years. Additional nutrition for shrubs is provided by adding various types fertilizers

Organic

Organic substances for junipers begin to be added even before the seedlings are planted in a permanent place. When preparing a planting hole for better rooting of plants, peat, turf and humus are added to the substrate in equal proportions. This nutrient mixture will help feed the bushes throughout the growing season. If the soil on the site is heavy (clayey), loose coniferous soil collected in the forest under pine or spruce trees is added to the soil mixture.

You cannot feed juniper with infusions of mullein or bird droppings: these compounds, even if used as carefully as possible, burn the root system, which subsequently leads to the death of the bushes.

Natural organic matter (manure of all types) is what can be used to fertilize juniper only in the spring and only in exceptional cases. This type fertilizing is not particularly useful for conifers, as it is an excellent source of nitrogen, the need for which is minimal in evergreen shrubs. An organic mixture suitable for coniferous plants is vermicompost. Junipers respond well to such feeding, since the use of biological compounds activates photosynthesis and stimulates the process of growing the root system.

The plants in question are fed by watering them with aqueous solutions of humus prepared according to the instructions. It is not recommended to apply such compositions in dry form, since most of their beneficial properties are lost under the influence of sunlight.

Mineral fertilizers

Nitroammophoska is used as a mineral supplement for the growth and development of juniper. It is placed in planting holes (at the rate of 200-300 g per plant), and then young bushes are fertilized with this preparation annually (40 g of the preparation per planting unit). A one-time application of nitroammophoska to juniper will be enough for adequate nutrition throughout the season. However, if the shrub is planted in soil depleted of nutrients, it is recommended to feed it throughout the growing season. In this case, fertilizers are applied monthly.

By autumn, juniper bushes deplete magnesium reserves in the soil if fertilizers containing this chemical element are not applied to them. The attractive appearance of the crown will be spoiled by yellowing of the needles at the tops of the shoots.

Complex means

Balanced nutrition for young plants is provided with complex organic-mineral fertilizers. They are introduced in April-May and done this once during the entire growing season. The following drugs have proven themselves to be excellent in caring for conifers:

1. Needle is a complex fertilizer suitable for spring or summer application, as it contains a large amount of nitrogen - 13%. The composition for irrigation is prepared by diluting 20 g of the drug in 20 liters of water. The resulting solution is used to water the bushes abundantly during the active growing season.
2. Kemira-M is a universal feeding product with a balanced composition, including all important micro- and macroelements. Suitable for applying to the soil before planting junipers (30-40 g of the drug for each bush) and for fertilizing during the growing season (60 g of the drug is applied to the soil for each plant).
3. Fertile universal fertilizer for spring feeding of conifers. Promotes active growth of the crown. Can be used at the planting stage - 100-200 g of the drug is added to the holes for shrubs for each plant. Planted juniper bushes are fed with a solution of 30 g of the product in 10 liters of water.
4. Green needle is a fertilizer containing a high percentage of magnesium and sulfur. Provides rich coloring of needles. Its use is especially effective if the juniper needles begin to turn yellow. Application is carried out by distributing granules in the soil under plantings at the rate of 50 g of the drug per 1 bush.

Most shrubs are fed with complex preparations, adding them to the soil in dry form or watering the plants with prepared aqueous solutions of fertilizers. For junipers, another method of feeding is relevant - spraying the ground part of the bush with complex preparations dissolved in water. The same Kemira-M or other similar products are suitable for this procedure.

Homemade fertilizers

The enrichment of the soil under juniper bushes with nutrients is facilitated by such a measure as mulching the tree trunk circles. Mulch is prepared from hay, straw, humus, grinding all of the above to a loose fraction. The resulting material is laid out under the bushes in a layer 5-10 cm thick. The mulch is changed after each loosening and weeding.

Benefits of mulching:

• mulch, when properly prepared, maintains an optimal level of soil acidity;
• important micro- and macroelements are washed out and weathered more slowly from the mulched substrate;
• mulch promotes the development of special microflora in the soil, which helps plants receive more nutrients from water and soil;
• Mulching helps fight weeds that take food from shrubs.

With the onset of spring, the mulch is moved away from the trunks so that the increased humidity underneath does not provoke bark rot and other diseases.

During the growing season, junipers can also be fed with rotted compost made from grass or kitchen waste. The product is sprinkled on the previously loosened soil under the bushes so that a 10-centimeter layer of the nutrient mixture is formed in the tree trunk circle. The soil and fertilizer can be lightly mixed so that the beneficial substances penetrate to the roots faster.

Rules for using fertilizers for juniper

The main nuances that should be taken into account during fertilization procedures:

1. The first feeding with the nutrient mixture is carried out during the swelling of the buds on the bushes (depending on weather conditions - from late April to early June). The need for subsequent measures is judged by the rate of development of the juniper. If they notice that the bush has begun to grow slowly, weak shoots have appeared on it, and the color of the needles has faded, repeat feeding. During the summer, fertilizers can be applied repeatedly; it is only important to observe the frequency - no more than once every 4-5 weeks.
2. When choosing fertilizers, preference is given to those preparations that contain a minimum amount of nitrogen, especially if they will be used for autumn feeding bushes Nitrogen can burn the roots of the plant, and also provoke increased growth of shoots, which easily freeze in winter period, since they do not have time to become stiff before the onset of cold weather.
3. Any fertilizer should be used strictly following the instructions for its use. Deviations from the recommended dosages and timing of application may negatively affect the further growth and development of juniper.
4. Preparations applied to the soil in the form of granules are evenly distributed in a circle near the trunk under each bush, departing from the trunks at least 10 cm. There is no need to deepen the fertilizer into the soil or, conversely, leave it near the surface, otherwise the juniper root system will not be able to reach to the nutrition she needs.
5. Fertilizing will be most effective if it is accompanied by abundant watering of the bushes. Nutrients that dissolve in water penetrate quickly to the roots and are better absorbed by plants.

Typical mistakes when applying fertilizers

Juniper does not require much attention, expressed in frequent and complex feeding, but it is quite easy to make mistakes when organizing nutrition for this shrub.

Many gardeners make the very first mistake at the stage of selecting planting material, paying attention only to decorative characteristics of one or another variety of juniper and without taking into account the key requirements for its growing conditions. Most types of juniper prefer acidic soils, but there are also varieties that grow and develop well in soil with an alkaline reaction (these include common, Central Asian and Cossack junipers).

Cossack juniper – poisonous plant, it is better to avoid growing it if there are children or pets on the site.

To create an acidic environment for the shrubs, peat with added sand is added to the soil before planting junipers, and the ground under the planted plant is mulched with sawdust or wood shavings. To increase the alkalinity of the soil, planting holes are filled with soil with the addition of slaked lime or dolomite flour.

Another common mistake is failure to comply with the recommended dosages and timing of fertilizer application. “Overfeeding” is especially dangerous for plants. Juniper generally needs very little additional nutrition. There are several reasons for this:

• the crop does not shed leaves for the winter, therefore, does not need “ building material» for annual restoration of the crown;
• the bush does not produce a harvest, which means it does not spend a large amount on its formation nutrients;
• Coniferous plants are able to independently obtain the necessary nitrogen from the air.

To avoid problems caused by improper feeding, you should strictly and carefully follow the dosages of the drugs indicated in the instructions, as well as their compatibility and application schedules.

Proper care of juniper allows you not only to maintain the natural attractiveness of this unpretentious shrub, but also prolongs the life of the plant for many years. A mandatory component of this approach is the timely provision of juniper bushes with the necessary nutrition: properly applied fertilizers strengthen the immune and root systems, maintaining the health of the plants.

Junipers with their thick short needles of rich colors, delightful texture and whimsical forms are incredibly popular ornamental plants. In addition to their stunning appearance, species and selection diversity, the undoubted advantages of these conifers are their undemandingness to soil, resistance to cold and drought, and the ability to tolerate pruning well.

Site selection and preparation

Junipers grow well in any soil, but too alkaline soils should be treated with caution - most species prefer slightly acidic or neutral soil. Stony, sandy loam, poor soils are suitable for growing unpretentious conifers, but for luxurious development, light sandy loam soil fertilized with humus, which is brought into the planting hole, is more suitable.

Do not place plants in low-lying areas with heavy, dense soils saturated with water - junipers tolerate drought much more easily than waterlogging. Stagnation of water is especially dangerous early spring, therefore, the area is first drained by digging deep grooves to drain water, and drainage must be placed in the planting holes. If possible, seedlings are placed on a hill; various rocky hills are excellent for this purpose.

Particularly demanding in terms of nutritional value and moisture content Chinese, lying and scaly junipers , and also dwarf varieties, hybrids and standard forms. Sandy loam is more suitable for junipers horizontal, Daurian, crowded, ordinary, Cossack. The last two species are known for their resistance to adverse conditions and are the best choice for planting in areas with polluted air.

Most species prefer sunny, open areas. Lots of sun and space needed large spreading trees and shrubs, the crown of which in deep shade becomes loose, and the needles lose their attractive richness of color. At the same time creeping varieties, varieties with blue needles or cream "feathers", many dwarf hybrids with a small crown they grow best in light partial shade.

Junipers Chinese, scaly, Daurian and middle in early spring they tend to get burned, which reduces stability and decorativeness. These species are planted with shade during midday hours. If this is not possible, in March, when the sun begins to warm up, they are covered with white cotton cloth, which is especially important for young plants.

Planting pits prepared with a size of at least 60x80 cm, be sure to immerse a layer of drainage in the form of broken brick, expanded clay or gravel, about 20 cm thick, at the bottom. spring planting season in the fall by preparing light nutritional mixture the following composition:

• leaf soil - 1 part;
• turf soil - 1 part;
• acidic peat (pH 3.5–4) – 1 part;
• sand – 0.5 parts;
• humus - 0.5 parts;
• needles - 0.5 parts.

It is strictly unacceptable to add fresh manure to the substrate - this will lead to damage to the roots, fungal diseases, as well as the death of populations of microfungi living on the root system and necessary for normal nutrition and development.

How to choose juniper seedlings when purchasing?

Junipers are not a species that can easily be transplanted. The larger and older the seedling, the more difficult it will be to take root in a new place. Seedlings take root better no older than 3–4 years old with a closed root system, rooted in the substrate. You should not buy specimens with bare roots - the chances that they will survive are minimal.

To make a purchase, you should go to a large garden center with a proven reputation. Optimal acquisition time – early spring or cool autumn(September—October). Dwarf and bicolor hybrid varieties It is advisable to buy and plant in the spring.

When choosing, you need to make sure that the color of the needles and the general habit of the seedling fully correspond to the declared variety or hybrid. You should not choose specimens with brown needles, partially bare branches, dried out tops, without young growth, or affected by pests and diseases. When inspecting the seedling, you can look under the bottom of the container - if large pieces of roots come out through the holes, it is better to refuse the purchase.

If you plan to plant large-sized trees, entrust this task better for specialists garden center, subject to their provision of guarantees of plant survival. You should not take risks and plant adult junipers yourself.

Planting junipers

When planting, take into account the approximate sizes of adult plants, which are indicated in the characteristics. Spreading large varieties tall, virginian or common junipers planted with distances of at least 3–4 m between plants. Species with a horizontally directed crown, for example, some varieties Cossack or Virginia junipers can reach significant sizes in diameter, and are planted even less frequently.

To form groups round and columnar dwarf specimens placed every 0.5–0.7 m. To obtain a continuous carpet using creeping forms, seedlings are placed at distances of 1–1.5 m from each other, depending on the variety.

The purchased seedling is immersed in water along with the substrate. Do not clean or wash away soil from the roots. In pre-prepared planting holes, dig holes 20–30 cm wider than the diameter of the container and water them.

The seedling is removed from the water, the excess soil is easily shaken off directly into the planting hole and the plant is planted. without deepening the root collar. The roots are carefully straightened and sprinkled loose soil, compact and water again.

If the plant was purchased in hot weather or with an open root system, the roots are damaged, and the seedling is weak, before planting it is worth treating the root system with a root formation stimulator, for example, Kornevin. In addition, it is useful to dip the roots in a clay mash, and to prevent fungal diseases, soak them in a solution of Maxim or Fundazol.

After planting, add a 7–10 cm thick layer of mulch from pine needles, peat or compost to the soil surface. This will help retain moisture and improve the soil structure, create an optimal microclimate at the roots, retain snow and protect the roots from freezing in winter. At the same time, the mulch should be regularly loosened and moved to the sides to maintain air exchange and prevent fungal diseases.

Plant care

Junipers, which are undemanding to growing conditions, still require low-labor care, which includes rare abundant watering, fertilizing, pruning, shelter for the winter and protection from diseases and pests.

Watering

Young plants and dwarf forms with a small root system, they need more moisture. IN rainy weather No watering is carried out, but during dry periods they are watered twice in the first month after planting, and then once every 20–30 days. Junipers love washing the crowns with sprinkling - this refreshes the needles, washes away dust, allows them to emit a wonderful smell, and release useful phytoncides. It is better to carry out the procedure in the evening or early in the morning, otherwise drops of water warmed by the scorching sun can cause burns.

Mature, developed shrubs and trees are watered three times a season; with sufficient moisture, they develop better, the needles become brighter and more saturated. Depending on the size of the plant, 10–30 liters of water are poured under the root. At the same time, most species tolerate long dry periods well and, in general, it is better to “underwater” junipers than to “overwater”.

The use of mulch, under which you can lay special permeable materials, for example, lutrasil, will help reduce the frequency of watering and maintain soil moisture. This technique will help protect young junipers from drying out and weeds.

Feeding

IN natural conditions junipers grow on poor rocky, sandy loam, and less often clayey soils. Species plants are undemanding to soil nutrition (exceptions: Chinese and scaly junipers). At the same time, modern varieties and hybrids are more whimsical and it is advisable to fully fill the planting holes, as indicated above.

In this case, the first two years the nutritional value of the substrate will be sufficient for the development of seedlings, and starting from the third year, complex fertilizer is applied every spring to replenish nutrients, enhance growth and strengthen the plant. Liquid fertilizer for conifers Stimovit, containing both organic and mineral substances, is successfully used. For root feeding, 100 ml of solution is diluted in 4 liters of water and watered onto moist soil around the perimeter of the crown.

Even if the soil is sufficiently saturated with organic matter and fertile, it is necessary to regularly add minerals to the soil. Universal brands of granular fertilizers for conifers AVA and Royal Mix have proven themselves well, containing a full range of macro- and microelements, including magnesium and iron, which is important for the prevention of chlorosis and other non-contagious diseases.

Trimming

Junipers, unlike firs, respond well to pruning. And although many varieties easily maintain an ideal shape, for example, the wonderful Canadian Sentinel, with its pressed branches and even crown, others may exhibit deviations from the norm.

Pruning is used to control branches that grow at an unexpected angle, shoots that do not match the color of the variety, as well as shoots that are too powerful and spoil the overall impression. Besides, in those vaccinated on standard In plants, there may be a predominant growth of the crown on one side; such one-sidedness looks unsightly and can lead to breakage of the scion.

Uneven growth of the crown most often looks untidy and must be regulated by creeping or rounded shapes, at the same time varieties with natural “dishevelment” don't need fixing.

Pruning is carried out using pruning shears; young growths are pinched with fingers to a third or half the length, depending on the purpose of pruning. An out-of-place powerful shoot or an incorrectly colored branch is removed completely at the fork, which will make the cut invisible.

The optimal time for pruning is the end of June., at this time the growths have already fully advanced, and the shoots remaining after pruning will have time to recover and go into the winter stronger.

Formative pruning is also used when caring for hedges, as well as to give shrubs geometric shapes, but this requires special skills, knowledge of growth characteristics and a creative approach.

Pest and disease control

Strong junipers are less often affected by diseases and pests than other conifers, but they are still damaged by insects, and a fungal infection can cause severe damage. Young weak seedlings or old weakened plants are most susceptible to pests and diseases.

Pests

Various caterpillars eat the needles and damage young growths, of which the most common pine moth, and also juniper notch moth. Small, similar in appearance to pubescent white aphids hermes settles on a variety of conifers, adult insects and larvae suck out the sap and damage the needles.

Adults juniper and pine sawflies, as well as their caterpillars, destroy the tender needles on young shoots, after which their surface resembles a burnt one. Small larvae juniper, settling on young branches, they also gnaw the needles, they fall off, and damaged branches become infected with sooty fungus.

To prevent pest attacks in May, plants are treated with Actellik, Enzhio or Decis, repeating the treatment if necessary throughout the season, but at least twice every 7-10 days. It is better to alternate medications.

Round holes in the bark, under which the species have winding passages, are made by the larvae of various pests, for example, pine beetles or goldfish. If such damage is observed, the plant is treated with one of the insecticides, and undiluted Actellik is instilled into the holes.

Fungal diseases

Young and weakened plants with a lack of space and light, high humidity soil and air suffer from fungal diseases.

Characterized by redness and browning of the needles, the spread of infection begins from the upper branches, which gradually become bare and dry out. Infection appears as a black velvety coating on browned needles.

If there are symptoms of these fungal infections, the withered branches are removed, the above-ground part is treated and one of the fungicides is added to the root - Fitosporin M, Fundazol, HOM, Maxim. In unfavorable weather conditions, for preventive purposes, the same treatment is carried out in April-May.

The most dangerous one is visible on the branches in the form of multiple orange pustules; at a late stage of the disease, the bark is affected, which thickens and bursts. Branches infected with rust are cut and burned, after which the plant is repeatedly treated with fungicides.

Defeat biatorella cancer manifests itself in the form of necrosis of the bark and deep ulcers, followed by drying out of the branches. The affected parts are cut down to healthy wood and burned; the sections and the entire plant are treated with a solution of copper oxychloride. To prevent infection during regular pruning, use a clean tool, and fresh sections are treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

For the prevention and treatment of spring burns use the drug Ecoberin, dissolving the granules in water and spraying the needles at least 3-4 times.

Preparing for winter

Junipers are resistant to temperature fluctuations and cold, but do not tolerate frosty, windy, little snowy winters with low air humidity, which leads to drying out of the soil and loss of moisture in the needles. In such cases, it is advisable to pour more snow near the root system and crown, increasing the humidity and protecting the soil at the roots from weathering. Young shrubs with a small crown in winter it is worth covering with spruce branches and dead wood, trapping the snow.

Varieties with a spreading fragile crown can be damaged in case of heavy snowfalls and the branches are tied in winter. Tying with covering materials, in particular burlap, is a common method of covering, but it must be used with caution, since in mild winters this can lead to overheating, falling of needles, and an outbreak of fungal diseases.

Features of reproduction

Junipers reproduce successfully by seed method, as well as cuttings. Grafting is a more labor-intensive method, but with effort you can acquire the necessary skills and grow wonderful standard plants.

Seed method

For sowing, cone berries are collected, the skin is peeled, releasing the seeds, which are filled with water, changing it as often as possible throughout the week. If the fruits are unripe, the seeds are kept in damp sand on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 3–4 months (stratification is carried out) or winter sowing. Burying boxes of crops in the snow is a good method of stratification, but it is only available in regions where there is a lot of snow, and it remains all winter.

Seeds obtained from overripe cones, in addition to stratification, must first be kept warm for three months before planting.

Seeds removed from the refrigerator in April-May are treated with Epin and sown to a depth of 1.5–2 cm on beds or in greenhouses filled with a porous substrate composed of leaf soil, humus and peat in equal parts, it is advisable to add a little fallen pine needles to the mixture.

The seedlings are watered, if necessary, planted and fed with one of the fertilizers for conifers. Seedlings are suitable for transplanting to a permanent location at the age of three years. It must be remembered that the resulting specimens may not fully replicate the characteristics of the mother plant.

Vegetative propagation

Junipers reproduce well cuttings and this technique allows you to grow enough planting material of the desired variety. Cuttings are cut in May-June, using pruning shears or breaking them off from the base “with a heel”.

At the same time, it is important not to injure the mother plant too much, since branches with barbarically damaged bark may dry out. WITH dwarf specimens take small cuttings - a sufficient length of 2–3 cm, with tall larger pieces are obtained - up to 15–20 cm.

To plant cuttings, use greenhouses, filling them with the same composition as for sowing seeds, making sure to place drainage at the bottom. Before boarding bottom part The cuttings are treated with Kornevin and sprinkled with Fundazol to prevent fungal infection.

The cuttings are planted in a moist substrate to a depth of 1–2 cm, watered, compacted and sprinkled with finger-thick peat. The greenhouse is covered, regularly sprayed, ventilated, and watered only when necessary. Rooting lasts throughout the summer; in winter, the seedlings are covered and planted for the next year.

Graft

Graft used to obtain standard plants with a spectacular round or weeping crown. Best rootstock– stable common juniper with an even, strong trunk, the same diameter as the scion. To perform grafting, in May, oblique cuts of the rootstock and grafted cuttings are made, which are then connected, pressed tightly and tied with polyethylene tape, and covered with garden pitch.

Reproduction by layering

Creeping species, prone to rooting in moist soil, can be propagated layering. To do this, remove side branches from the desired area of ​​the shoot, lower it into a groove, cover it with loose soil, pin it with one or two staples, cover it, moisten it and cover it with a piece of lutrasil for 2–3 weeks. Then the covering material is removed, the surface is loosened, mulched, and when shoots appear, hilled up. The following spring, the resulting seedlings are separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.

Video about planting and caring for juniper

Each juniper is good in its own way, planting material is available, varied, and a passionate gardener will always find a place for one or several bright plants, captivating with their convex texture, rich colors and the most unexpected shapes.

We were planning to build our own alpine slide or decorate a garden plot in an original way? Create comfortable conditions for the juniper, which gives its owner not only good mood, but also healing phytoncides that strengthen the nerves and help overcome the everyday anxiety of our hectic times.

Juniper, a fragrant, long-lived evergreen (500-2500 years) of the Cypress family, has recently become a decoration for personal plots, a striking element of landscape decor. There are more than 70 species of this unpretentious winter-hardy plant, which has a powerful root system, a height of up to 10 m and a growing area from northern latitudes to the tropics. Juniper leaves, depending on the type, are scaly or coniferous in shape, and their color is blue, gray, yellowish and all shades of green, which allows you to create picturesque, multi-level, multi-colored compositions on the site.

Here are some juniper species with a “fashionable” exterior:

• Red cedar (pencil tree)- slender, upright growing shrub/small tree 7-12 m tall and 4-6 m wide. In the first years the plant is compact and conical, then it becomes wide, asymmetrical and openwork. The branches are bent upward. The needles are scaly, needle-shaped in the shade, dark or gray-green, dark red in winter. It grows only in the sun, tolerates large temperature changes, is winter-hardy and wind-resistant. Suitable for topiary haircut.
• Juniper horizontal (prostrate ) - prostrate dwarf shrub 0.2-0.3 m tall and 1.5-2 m wide with creeping shoots. The needles are scaly, the color ranges from green to metallic blue, becoming crimson or dark red in winter. Grows in sun and partial shade, tolerates large temperature changes, is winter-hardy and wind-resistant.
• Juniper medium - vertically growing, asymmetrical shrub 2-5 m high and 3-6 m wide. The branches form layers side shoots often raised. The needles are scaly, the color ranges from dull gray to blue-green; in the shade or after pruning, the needles become needle-shaped. Grows quickly in sun and partial shade, tolerates large temperature changes, is wind-resistant, and winter-hardy. Tolerates simple and topiary haircuts well.
• Juniper durum - a columnar tree native to Japan up to 8 m tall with hard, sharp, yellow-green needles. Very light-loving, undemanding to soil fertility. Males are especially beautiful as tapeworms.
• Chinese juniper - large shrub/tree. The branches have both scaly and needle-like needles of green, bluish or gray, in the shade or with heavy pruning becoming needle-shaped. It grows only in the sun, even in light shade it thins out. Frost-resistant, takes root well, but does not tolerate dry air. IN Middle lane Russia is replaced by cypress trees.
• Juniperus daurica - creeping shrub with ascending branches. The needles are needle-shaped, sharp, with good lighting- scaly, becomes brownish after frost. Light-loving, tolerates light shading, drought-resistant. Suitable for slopes, slopes and rock gardens.

Juniper varieties most commonly used for garden design and home decor:

“anna maria”, “bruns”, “depressa aurea”, “horstmann”, “hibernica”, “Compressa”, “green carpet”, “old gold”, “gold star”, “mint julep”, “skyrocket”, “andorra compacta”, “blue star”, “blue arrow”, “blue chip”.

Selection of seedlings

It is best to purchase a seedling from a nursery, where you can choose the variety and specimen you like, and also get advice on caring for juniper and its neighbors. When buying a juniper, pay attention that its root system is developed and occupies the entire volume of the planting container (it is advisable that the seedling is in a solid “dishes” and not in bags, where the root system is easily damaged). Ask the seller to remove the plant from the pot and show you its roots - they should be white, fresh and smell good. The needles of a healthy candidate for planting are lush, without yellowness, rich green in color, the branches are not dry, and the optimal age is 3-4 years.

Place

Juniper is a light-loving plant that loves space, so it is advisable that its crown be in the sun most of the day, otherwise the plant will lose its lushness. Loose, breathable soil for juniper (pH = 4.5-7) can be “constructed” yourself by mixing turf soil and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1. Or you can not bother and buy ready-made soil PETER PEAT “Garden Soil” from the HOBBY line, which will reduce the number of weeds and the percentage of possible plant diseases.

Choose places to plant junipers with low groundwater levels to avoid root rot.

Planting juniper seedlings

Planting of horizontal juniper is carried out from April to the second ten days of May (if autumn is dry, then in late August - early September) and includes a number of simple rules:

• The depth of the planting hole should be twice the height of the seedling and be at least 70-80 cm, and its width should be 2.5 times larger than the root ball of the seedling. A 10 cm drainage layer of crushed stone, gravel or large expanded clay PETER PEAT line VITA is placed at the bottom of the pit. Then there is a sand layer 20 cm thick, and from above to ground level there is a soil mixture of turf soil, sand and PETER PEAT “Garden Soil” soil from the HOBBY line (1: 1: 2). If the soil on your site is heavy, liming it with dolomite flour at the rate of 500-600 g/sq.m.
• Before planting, to prevent diseases, immerse the root part of the seedling for 2 hours in a 3% aqueous solution of potassium permanganate.
• When the planting hole is half filled with the required “ingredients”, pour a bucket of water into it; After planting a seedling/adult plant, water it with two more, this will protect you from the risk of underwatering and drying out of the roots.
• Plant the plant together with a lump of earth, after thoroughly spilling the pot with water. Try not to damage the roots and root ball of soil. When planting, the root collar of young seedlings is level with the ground, for young seedlings - 2-3 cm, and for adult junipers - 10 cm above ground level.
• Between neighboring young junipers there should be a distance of 0.6-1 m, between large ones - 1.5-2.5 m. It is necessary to calculate so that the distance between already adult individuals is 1.5-4 m, taking into account the overgrown crowns.
• Mulch your plantings with a 5-8 cm layer of sawdust, dead leaves, pine bark PETER PEAT line DECO or special artificial material.

Replanting juniper

This is an extremely undesirable and painful procedure for the juniper, so it is better not to make mistakes with the place of its initial planting. But once you have decided, take care of landscaping the “correct hole” (see Planting) and creating comfortable soil by mixing coniferous soil, peat, sand in equal parts with snitroammophos (30-40 g/sq.m). Fill the half-filled hole with a bucket of water and pour it again with 2 more buckets after the juniper has finally settled in the new place. 2 days after transplantation, feed the plant with liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT “Living Force: Stress Resistance”.

Replanting juniper from the forest

You can dig up a juniper tree in a coniferous forest, guided by the following parameters: height no more than 50 cm, straight trunk, all needles are green, no dry twigs. Dig up the ground 0.5 m around the trunk and pull out the plant along with the lump, carefully cutting off the roots and trying to leave them as long as possible. Place the seedling in a bag and, without destroying the lump under any circumstances, take it to the site, to the prepared hole. You need to plant juniper, clearly repeating its forest orientation to the cardinal directions: to do this, while still in the forest, mark the “notched” side of the earthen clod with a stick or simply tie a thread.

Feeding juniper

Feed your juniper in April mineral fertilizer PETER PEAT “NPK 15-15-15” from the MINERAL line. In the future, water it monthly with liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT “Living force: for coniferous crops”, combining the fertilizer with watering and first lightly loosening the tree trunk circle. But if the plant is already growing well, fertilize it every other month. Alternative fertilizers:

• nitroammophoska (30 - 40 g per 1 m²);
• “Kemira Universal” (20 g per 10 liters of water).

Juniper propagation

Seeds. Not all juniper varieties can be grown from seeds - hybrid varieties (labeled f1) do not produce offspring in this way. Natural pollination of the plant provides too little planting material, and it can be collected from two-year-old and older junipers strictly during the darkening of the berries, but not later. Next collected seeds stratify: put a layer of sand and moss in a box 20x30x30 cm; place a thin layer of juniper seeds on it; on top is a layer similar to the first. The box should stay outside all winter and the first half of spring. This will speed up seed germination, because... seeds that have not undergone this procedure will be able to sprout only after a year. In May, soak juniper seeds for 30 minutes in a 3% solution of potassium permanganate, then 2 hours in liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT and plant in prepared beds (see section Planting) according to a 50x80 cm pattern, followed by watering, weeding, and loosening the rows.

Cuttings with a “heel”. In early spring, early in the morning in cloudy weather, cut branches 12 cm long from an adult juniper so that they have “heels” - 2-3 cm pieces of the trunk. Remove the needles from them and place them for a day in a solution of liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT “Living force: for soaking seeds”, which stimulates root formation. Next, immerse the juniper cuttings 3 cm into pots with a diameter of 15 cm with a substrate of sand, garden soil and peat (1: 1: 1), water and cover with film. Rooting temperature +22-28°C, humidity of the upper part of the cuttings 90%. Place the pots on the windowsill, towards the light. Remember, the soil should always be moist, but overwatering can cause root rot. Every 5 hours, remove the film to allow the cuttings to breathe and check the moisture content of the substrate. After 30-50 days, the plantings will have roots; after another 2 months they can be transplanted into pots, and in a permanent place - after 2-3 years.

In a greenhouse. Prepare a hole 25 cm deep in the garden bed, lay drainage made of expanded clay or small crushed stone 5 cm thick on the bottom, and on top - a soil mixture of sand and peat (1:1). Above the resulting bed, install arcs 25-30 cm high and cover them with thick film. Sprinkle thoroughly with water and bury the cuttings 3 cm into it in increments of 40-50 cm. Do not forget to ventilate every 5 hours, and in sunny weather, remove the film.

Juniper care

In the first year after planting, the soil under the juniper must be carefully loosened so as not to damage its root system. You can add a little peat or pine nut shells from the PETER PEAT line DECO to the soil. The top of the tree trunk circle can be mulched with sawdust or dry leaves.

Watering juniper

Juniper can go without water for a long time, but it still needs to be watered once a month: one plant should have 15-25 liters of water. In hot summers, he loves a weekly water shower from a watering can or spray bottle - this procedure is best done in the early morning or evening. If the summer is rainy, a shower once every 3 weeks is enough. Water the young seedlings along the edge of the hole once a week.

Trimming. Juniper “for life” does not need pruning, you just need to remove the dry branches that appear. But when forming the crown, you can also cut off “unnecessary” healthy branches, only a little, because the plant may get sick.

Shelter. To protect the juniper from fractures due to heavy snowfall, tie its branches with twine and periodically shake off the snow from them. It is a good idea to cover young specimens with spruce branches or aspargan. Before winter, be sure to mulch the tree trunks of plants with peat or sawdust to a thickness of 8-10 cm.

In spring, the sun mercilessly burns the juniper needles, so do not immediately remove the covering material “forever” - let the juniper gradually get used to the light, increasing the daily time it is exposed by 15-20 minutes. As soon as the snow melts from the tree trunk, remove the old layer of mulch, dig up the soil to 5-8 cm, level it and make a new layer of mulch.

Diseases and pests

Happy juniper plantings to you!

Juniper – decorative evergreen. Grows in any soil depending on the variety: some need an alkaline environment, others prefer acidic soils. Before purchasing a seedling, it is necessary to clarify information about which variety is best to plant on the site in order for it to take root.

The plant adapts well to local conditions and does not require special care. But the main task of the gardener is to keep the needles green and lush. Exactly according to appearance greenery determines how suitable the conditions are for the juniper.

The rules of agricultural technology for coniferous plants are in many ways similar: they all like irrigation by sprinkling, but do not tolerate stagnant moisture in the soil. Adult plants are rarely fertilized; young plants need more nutrients, so for the first 3 to 4 years they are fertilized several times a season.

Planting a young plant

Seedlings are bought from nurseries or dug up in the forest.

But the plant that grew in special conditions takes root better. Taken from the forest, they take longer to take root and look bad at first. This happens because the type of soil, the method of nutrition, and lighting change dramatically. If the plant is accustomed to shading, then bright sunlight may damage the crown and it will turn yellow.

Forest plants are not accustomed to abundant feeding and here you need to guess the amount of fertilizer for juniper.

Landing method

When planting, pay attention the following points:

• Dig out the plant along with a clod of earth, the diameter of which is at least 50 cm. To prevent the juniper roots from drying out, moisten the soil and wrap it in film. You need to take some forest litter to add to the hole when planting, and also mulch the soil around the trunk. Moss, which is placed in a circle near the trunk, will come in handy.

• If the soil is heavy, then add peat, sand or pine needles. The size of the pit is 2–3 times larger than the clod of earth.

• After planting, the juniper is watered abundantly and the soil is mulched to create roots favorable conditions. Various drugs that stimulate root growth are suitable.

• In order for the juniper tree to take root better, group plantings are done, so it is recommended to buy 3–4 bushes at once.

If the plant is planted closer to autumn, then it is necessary to apply fertilizer for the juniper to protect the roots from freezing. The root system of ornamental coniferous plants is superficial and, without sufficient nutrition, is easily damaged at low temperatures.

Nutrient mixtures for juniper

What to fertilize juniper can be found in your garden plot. It could be humus which lay in a pile for 1.5 - 2 years. Do not use fresh manure, which contains a lot of free ammonia.

An excess of nitrogen has a bad effect on the condition of the needles. It turns yellow and dries, and with it the branches. It is advisable to add humus when planting. And do not use fertilizer for the next 3 years. Except when the conifer grows on sandy soil.

Compost, which is used to fertilize juniper in the fall, is used once every 3 years for adult plants. It is dug up with the top layer of soil above the roots. Then water and mulch. Young trees can be supplemented with compost more often - once a year in the spring - to speed up growth and gain of green mass.

Video: Caring for juniper

Wood ash is a popular substance used to feed juniper in the fall. It contains potassium and phosphorus in large quantities, as well as microelements: magnesium, zinc, iron, boron, calcium. In order not to spend money on special additives, once a year you need to make an ash solution and water the bush. 300 g of the substance is added to a bucket of water and infused. In this form, the fertilizer is absorbed faster. Ash has an alkaline reaction and reduces acidity in the area where the juniper is planted.

Green manure is used to replenish humus reserves. They are placed in a barrel and filled with water. When they begin to ferment, water the soil with the resulting liquid, and plant remains spread around the bushes, covering the top with a layer of bark. This is necessary to create darkness.

Soil bacteria process organic matter in the dark; under the rays of the sun, microorganisms die. Mulch prevents the top layer of soil from drying out and eroding nutrients.

Mineral fertilizers for conifers

Mineral complexes are used in spring and autumn. Stores sell special compositions where the amount of nitrogen is strictly limited. Plants need it for needle growth, but an excess can destroy the plant. Per square meter you need about 30 g of complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

You can make a combined fertilizer for feeding juniper in the fall yourself. For this you need superphosphate and potassium sulfate. 40 g and 30 g respectively per square meter. The granules are dissolved in water and watered over the root zone.

If the plant loves alkaline or slightly acidic soils, then use deoxidizers:

• lime;

• gypsum;

• dolomite flour;

• phosphate rock.

Add these substances according to the instructions. Dosages should not be exceeded, because this leads to a sharp change in pH, which can disrupt the nutrition of the roots. Some substances dissolve and are absorbed in a slightly acidic environment.

For example, phosphate rock. In an alkaline environment, phosphates form sparingly soluble substances with the soil that are inaccessible to the roots. Without phosphorus, there will be no growth of new branches and potassium will not be absorbed.

The names of fertilizers for juniper may coincide with the names for conifers, so when purchasing mixtures you need to check whether the mixture is suitable for a particular type of plant. More attention should be paid to the variety of juniper and chemical composition soil where it will grow. Depending on this, select fertilizers or make them yourself.