How to remove sewerage from a private house. How to remove sewer from a house. Circumstances and layout of external sewerage

Building a sewer system in a private house is quite simple. You can do everything yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists, and save some money, and then you can walk around and be proud.

To begin with, you need to approve with your wife (husband) the location of all plumbing units. Sink in the kitchen, dishwasher, washing machine, toilet, bathtub and sink in the bathroom. In general, consider every little detail...

Sewage scheme in the house

In order not to buy too much, you need to draw a sewerage wiring diagram. Below is an example of mine.

It’s not at all necessary to draw everything out like that, I tried so hard for you. It is enough to sketch out the dimensions of your house on a scale, on a piece of paper in a box. Also, on a scale, put marks on those places where there should be connection points for plumbing fixtures. Then connect these points with straight lines (pipes) and corners (bends). It should be taken into account that the pipes have lengths: 15 cm, 25 cm, 50 cm, 75 cm, 1 m, 1.5 m, 2 m and 3 m, and the bends have angles: 15°, 30°, 45°, 67.5° and 87.5°. There are also various tees and crosses, but their angles are poorer: 45° and 87.5°, but the crosses have the ability to connect several pipes of different diameters. Here is a catalog containing the entire range of internal sewer pipes from one plant. The products of all factories are approximately the same, the only difference is the quality of casting and rubber seals, so there is no point in chasing brands, and you can decide on a purchase at a local hardware store.

When planning to rotate a sewer pipe in a horizontal plane (to the right or to the left), it is necessary that the angle of rotation be as smooth as possible. For example, you should not install a bend with an angle of 87.5°; you need to install at least two bends with angles of 45° or 3 by 30°. If possible, it would be better to do this:

If your pipe runs through the entire house, then it is necessary to provide inspection hatches and cleaning. Here is what SNiP 2.04.01-85* “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings” says about this:

Carry around the house better diameter 110 mm. It's easier to clean and less likely to clog. In my case, it would be possible to save money by laying a pipe from the kitchen sink to the bathtub with a diameter of 50 mm, but it is 8 meters long, and in the future this saving will result in headaches and unnecessary expenses throughout the entire life of the house. In general, questionable savings.

Sewer ventilation

It is also necessary to provide sewer ventilation. It is needed so that the toilet flushes waste products well. Surely you have already been in private houses with all the amenities, where there is a bathtub and a toilet, and in general, everything is like in the city, but the toilet flushes somehow wrong... Somehow the water drains sluggishly, not at the same speed, with which you are accustomed in the city. And the water in the toilet, after flushing, remains at a level slightly lower than usual, and after a while it gradually rises to the same level. Probably the toilet is bad... But it’s not! There is simply no sewer ventilation system provided. The water does not drain well due to the fact that a vacuum is created between the toilet and the water going into the sewer (excuse the pun), and the level in the toilet is restored smoothly as the water, after flushing, reaches the sewer and air enters the pipe. Difficult? Nothing complicated, really...

It looks something like this:

Please note that after flushing, the toilet is already closed with a hydraulic valve (water that is constantly in the toilet), and air does not enter the system through it. At the same time, the water leaving through the pipe creates a vacuum. As a result, water drains slowly and contributes to the formation of blockages. There are cases that when the toilet is flushed, the vacuum sucks water from the hydraulic valve above the sink, and the pipe of this sink becomes a vent until water enters the hydraulic valve. The smell is not the most pleasant.

In order to avoid this, it is necessary to install sewer ventilation in the house, then everything will play differently. There will be no vacuum, because it will be compensated by fresh country air from the street.

I decided to run the sewer ventilation pipe inside the bathroom ventilation duct, and then run the chimney pipes through the wall of the chimney pipe above the roof so that they go out to the street at different points. It is prohibited to discharge the exhaust part of sewage into the ventilation duct!

What to do if sewer ventilation is not provided? Ventilation valves for sewage systems have been invented for this purpose. The whole point is that to eliminate the vacuum it is not necessary that fresh country air be supplied. The one in the house is enough. Therefore, sewer ventilation can be vented inside the house. But!!! It will, to put it mildly, stink... To prevent this from happening, you just need to install a special sewer ventilation valve. This is a small device that allows air from the house into the drain, but does not allow air from the sewer into the house. So all is not lost!

Sewage installation

The first thing to consider when installing a sewer system is the slope of the pipes. SNiP 2.04.01-85 says about this:

“...non-rated sections of pipelines with a diameter of 40–50 mm should be laid with a slope of 0.03, and with a diameter of 85 and 100 mm - with a slope of 0.02...”

Simply put, if you have a pipe with a diameter of 40-50 mm, then the end of each meter should be 3 cm lower than the beginning of this meter.

If you have a 110th pipe, then it needs to be laid a little smoother. The end of the meter segment should be only 2 cm below the beginning of this segment.

The second thing to consider is the maximum slope of the pipe, it should not exceed 15 cm per 1 linear meter pipes. If this is not taken into account, then liquid masses they will go faster than hard ones (well, you know what I mean :)) and, sooner or later, you are guaranteed a fun weekend.

To begin with, it would be nice to estimate: is there enough excess? For example, in my case, the greatest distance is from the kitchen sink to the sewer outlet from the house. The length of this pipe is 12 m. This means that the excess between these points should be:

12×0.02=0.24 m

0.02 is the required slope for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

Accordingly, if you hide the pipe under the floor, then only the slope of the pipe will need 24 cm, plus the thickness of the concrete floor, plus the diameter of this pipe will total 40-50 centimeters below the zero level of the house. At this level we will have to “cut” into the pipe that was laid when the foundation was poured.

Can we do this? Great, let's move on. Remember, at the stage of pouring the base, I concreted the outlet for the sewerage?

We cut off this pipe at a level of 40-50 cm (or what is your excess there?) below the zero level of the house, put a repair coupling on it and begin laying out the sewerage system. It is better to secure the pipe with special clamps. I screwed them directly to the concrete plinth. It holds securely, after which you can safely fill everything with sand, the pipe will remain in place, and its slope will not change.

It is much easier to connect pipes if you lubricate them with something first. At least sunflower oil.

After installation, we put in a garden hose and look: is there a leak somewhere?

To summarize, it should be noted that sewer installation is not at all difficult and you can easily do it yourself, even if you have never done it. The main thing is don’t forget about the slope;)

Removing the sewer pipe from the house.

And just to summarize, I would like to mention the drainage system from the house. To do this, let me remind you once again about pouring the foundation. It’s great that at that time a sewer pipe and a water supply pipe to the house were installed. Here she is at the stage of pouring the foundation of the house.

Now, in order to connect to it from outside the house, it is enough to dig a trench in in the right place, dig up the pipe, remove the bag, clean everything from dirt and connect sewer pipe, leading to the septic tank.

I’m afraid to imagine what would have awaited me if I had not thought through this tiny nuance while pouring the foundation.

Don't forget about the little things!

The installation of a sewer system in a private house begins with the layout and installation scheme. This allows you to arrange all the plumbing fixtures as conveniently as possible, make the correct slope, and accurately calculate all consumables.

As a result, the system will operate smoothly, and if one of the elements breaks or becomes clogged, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article we will tell you how to correctly draw up plans for internal and external (external) sewerage for a private home or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.

Drawing up a diagram starts from the farthest plumbing fixture in the attic or upper floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and consumables bathrooms on different tiers are located along the same vertical line.

The sewage system in the house consists of:

Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
Drains from all plumbing;
Pipes leading wastewater into the external sewer system;
Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
Clamps in walls that support pipes and give them direction and angle.
Central riser.

It is important that there is no transition in the house from a larger sewer diameter to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.

Accurate drawing internal system depends on the number of floors of the building, the presence of a basement, the amount of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and connection to additional equipment also matters ( pumping station or separately for each device).

On the diagram all elements should be displayed to scale so that in the event of a planned repair or emergency, you can quickly understand the wiring and find the breakdown.

External line

External sewerage starts with the pipeline from the foundation. The wastewater is discharged to a septic tank, cesspool or filter structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). There is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood located outside.

Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be installed near windows, with access to the yard or near smokers. Categorically it is prohibited to connect it to a regular ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).

Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks

The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for collecting drains, autonomous installations are used.

cesspool. It is easy to organize on site and is the most cheap option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of wastewater. There is a possibility of dirt getting into groundwater And bad smell.
Do-it-yourself septic tank made of brick filled with concrete or ready-made reinforced concrete stakes c. It performs its functions well, is durable and strong. The disadvantages include long installation times and serious construction costs.
Industrial off-grid installation. Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered due to the speed of construction, high quality And long-term operation equipment.
Station biological treatment . The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. It features the highest degree of purification and high productivity.

Consumables, calculation and prices

You definitely need to decide on the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that Each resident of the house uses 200 liters of water per day. The wastewater in the septic tank settles for 3 days. Based on these data, we obtain the exact size of the waste tank.

So, a family of 4 consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, you need to select a septic tank of exactly this volume. If desired, you can make a small reserve in case the tank is maximally loaded. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.

Main fittings:

Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
Tees with a side section at 45 or 90 degrees.
Elbow for connecting pipes with different heights (RUB 450/piece).
Straight-line double-sided coupling with rubber cuffs in sockets (from 30 rubles).
Revision (60 rub.)
reduction of various parameters (from 40 rubles/piece)
Hood hood (from 50 RUR)

Before you begin to equip a sewer system, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the basic requirements put forward for it. As we will tell you in a special review.

Water can be not only beneficial, but also harmful to human body. What kind of coarse filter? would be better suited for a summer residence, find out from this.

Optimal slope and depth during construction

According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of installation. With a cross-section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid blockages and “greasy” sewage in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.

When installed on plot of land the same angle of inclination is maintained. The sleeve (a pipe with a larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to external sewerage, And located 30 cm above the soil freezing level.

Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable– you will have to make a very deep septic tank. If a constant slope is maintained, this will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost increases due to additional concrete rings and more durable (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.

The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or insulation with a heating cable can be used.

Selection of pipes and diameters

Pipes are used to drain wastewater from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross-section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.

To organize a sewer system in a private house, pipes can be used cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.

External (PVC)

Designed for external networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite their relative cheapness, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use for both external and hidden installation. For them, it is recommended to connect using the method cold welding. All turns are made using fittings and bends.

Internal (polypropylene)

For internal communications they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters, depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:

Single or multi-layer.
Foam propylene is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
The connection is made by welding or using special fittings.

Rules for the design and installation of an external system

Brief instructions on how to properly create a local autonomous sewage system in a private country house(at the dacha) with your own hands, it looks like this:

Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
Formation of a sand cushion.
Layout of all component elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewer. For greater reliability The fastening points are treated with silicone sealant.
Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
Backfill the trench, trying to compact sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding sudden loads at right angles. Thickness of sand backfill - not less than 15 cm.

For pipeline turns, shaped parts for external utility networks. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the area with an intermediate inspection well.

This video shows how to properly make a sewer system for a private home, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house, do everything according to the diagram yourself and lay the pipes for the system without errors? Installation sewer system it will be of better quality if follow several instructions:

When installing sewerage it is important to take into account every nuance: placement of plumbing fixtures, topography of the site, location of the intake manifold or septic tank, depth of pipe laying and angle of inclination.

Only with careful charting, careful planning and order By installing a sewerage system in a private house or country house with your own hands, you can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain wastewater well without creating additional problems in the house and on the site.

Regardless of whether it is connected private house to the central or autonomous sewerage system, removal system waste water outside you need to arrange it yourself. Before you begin this work, you need to develop an installation scheme that allows you to avoid minimum size pipelines and sewer network distributions.

This will reduce the cost of purchasing material and increase the efficiency of the wastewater disposal system. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the depth of pipe laying, the angle of their inclination and the reliability of flange connections, since the performance of the sewage system depends on these parameters.

Connecting a private house to the sewer system

Circumstances and layout of external sewerage

The external part of the sewer system in a private house connects the outlet of the internal drain with a pipeline network to a waste storage tank located on the site, or to the central sewer system. Read about the internal wiring in the house in the article. The laying of external sewer pipes is carried out according to a pre-developed scheme, taking into account the following circumstances:

terrain features;
weather conditions;
remoteness of wells and reservoirs;
the total volume of wastewater, depending on the number of people permanently residing in the house;
the depth of soil freezing and its composition;
access paths for a vacuum truck, if necessary.

In the external sewer laying scheme, it is imperative to provide for its ventilation, since otherwise, over time, unpleasant odors will penetrate into residential premises. Read about the rules for sewer ventilation in the article. Ventilation is arranged using fan pipe, which can be placed on the lid of a septic tank or on a section of pipeline passing from the house to storage capacity drains.

Scheme of arrangement of autonomous external sewage system

The septic tank is installed at the lowest point of the geological terrain of the site. This arrangement allows for the most optimal installation of external sewerage. It should be laid in a straight line to the location of the outlet pipe of the internal wastewater disposal system.

Choosing a drain location

When choosing the location of the drain, you should first of all make sure that the unpleasant odor does not penetrate into the living quarters. As a result, it should be located no closer than five meters from the house. The optimal distance would be ten meters; it is also not worth placing the septic tank too far away, since this significantly increases the cost of laying the pipeline network. The external sewage system should not be connected to the house at a right angle. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

water sources should be located no closer than thirty meters;
a septic tank cannot be installed on the border of a neighboring plot;
for ease of pumping out sewage, it is better to locate the drain close to the road;
Particularly careful sealing of the storage tank is necessary when soil water is close to each other;
The laying of the pipeline network is facilitated by the natural slope of the area.

Rules for placing a septic tank on the site

The cesspool for sewage has been used since ancient times. Previously, no effort was wasted on sealing its walls, and when the hole was filled, they covered it with earth and dug a new one. Now the walls are laid out of brick, concrete rings and other building materials.

Liquid fractions of waste seep through the soil at the bottom, filtering; solid components gradually fill the mine, and after some time they need to be pumped out.

Arrangement cesspool it is advisable if the volume of wastewater in a private house does not exceed one cubic meter per day. If this norm is exceeded, pollution will occur. environment.

Instead of a cesspool, you can equip a sealed container to accumulate wastewater. In this case, the bottom and walls of the shaft are thoroughly waterproofed. This prevents the possibility of contamination of soil and drinking water sources. The disadvantage of this system is the need for frequent cleaning, since the sealed container fills up quite quickly.

Deciding on the type of treatment plant

Sewage treatment plants for a private home are equipped in the form of a simple cesspool without a bottom or a sealed container for wastewater. A single-chamber septic tank with soil treatment or two-chamber septic tank with filter well. It is possible to construct three chambers with a filtration field, as well as using a biofilter and an air supply system.

Septic tank with filtration from tires

A single-chamber septic tank is essentially a cesspool with a drainage layer. Crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand is poured into the bottom of the well. Passing through the filter layer, liquid waste fractions are purified before entering the soil. After some time, the drainage layer needs to be replaced, as silt deposits are deposited on it. A single-chamber septic tank is suitable for a private house with a small volume of wastewater.

A two-chamber septic tank consists of a storage tank and a filter well, which are connected by an overflow pipe. In the settling tank, the feces are partially clarified and then fall into a shaft with a drainage layer at the bottom. They seep into the soil already sufficiently purified.

A two-chamber septic tank is a popular sewerage option for a private home, as it does not require large financial costs for its equipment and works efficiently.

Installing a septic tank with two or more chambers, as well as a filtration field, virtually eliminates the possibility of environmental pollution. After settling in the first container, the partially clarified wastewater flows through the overflow pipe into next camera with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic residues. Read about how to make a septic tank with your own hands from scrap materials in the article

Having sequentially passed through all sections, the wastewater enters the filtration field, which is an area underground of about thirty square meters, where the final soil cleanup takes place. If available on site free space This method of arranging a sewer system is optimal.

Diagram of a septic tank with a biofilter

A septic tank with a biofilter is a deep sewage treatment station. According to the principle of operation, it is similar to a treatment system with a filtration field, only in this case it is replaced by a water separator and anaerobic bacteria introduced at the outlet of the overflow pipe into the fourth section, which purify the wastewater by approximately ninety-five percent. This water can be used for technical needs.

It is irrational to install deep cleaning stations in private houses with periodic residence, since if a sewer system of a similar design is not used constantly, the bacteria that decompose organic residues die. In addition, they are quite expensive.

Laying depth of sewer pipes

The depth of soil freezing is a fundamental factor when burying sewer pipes into the ground. They need to be laid below the freezing point, otherwise they will freeze in winter, and it will be impossible to use the sewer until the spring thaw. The appearance of even small ice build-ups on the internal surfaces of pipelines leads to a decrease in their permeability and the formation of blockages.

Map of standard freezing depths

IN southern regions the depth of laying sewer pipes is fifty centimeters or more, in the central regions - seventy centimeters or more. You need to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in your region so as not to go deeper into the ground than necessary, since in this case the costs of doing the work will increase.

Organization of sewer pipe removal from the house

The organization of the removal of the sewer pipe from the house depends on the stage of readiness for operation of the building. If the house has just been built, the foundation may shrink, so it is necessary to drill a hole in it for the outlet of the sewer pipe with a noticeably larger diameter than the cross-section of the pipe itself.

Options for drainage schemes from the house

If the house is just being built, the outlet pipe can be walled up during the process of laying the foundation. The foundation of a house built several years ago will no longer settle, so the diameter of the hole drilled for the outlet pipe does not need to be increased. Plumbing fixtures should be located at a short distance from the general drain, since in this case it is easier to connect them to general conclusion. If the house has two or more floors, the bathrooms should be placed one above the other, and in this case you can get by with one riser.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewerage in a private house

The external sewerage system consists of a cleaning tank and a pipeline system connecting the septic tank to the house. Before execution installation work A diagram of the external sewerage system is drawn on the site plan.

Practical options removal of sewerage from the house

Then special pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm are selected, intended for outdoor use. Usually they have orange. A trench is dug to lay the pipeline. Its depth is selected depending on the climatic characteristics of the area, the composition and characteristics of the soil, as well as other factors. If necessary, the pipeline network is insulated.

The most labor-intensive part of the work when installing a sewer system with your own hands in a private house is digging a pit for a cesspool or septic tank. The optimal distance at which the septic tank is removed from the house is about ten meters.

The volume of the storage tank directly depends on the number of people permanently residing in the house and the frequency of their use of plumbing fixtures.

It is best to connect the storage tank to the outlet of the internal sewer drain in a straight line; bends and turns of the pipeline system increase the likelihood of clogging. For ease of cleaning, a long line in places where the direction changes needs to be equipped inspection hatches.
This is what a properly equipped outdoor sewer system looks like

Wastewater moves through the pipeline system by gravity, under the influence of gravitational forces, so it is necessary to withstand correct angle tilt If it is too small, large pieces of waste will be retained and the drain will become clogged.

If the slope is too great, solid fractions will be thrown towards the walls of the pipe, and again it will become clogged. You will find information about the correct slope of the sewer in the article

The required angle is maintained and controlled by the building level when digging a trench; its depth increases as it approaches the storage tank or central sewer. A shock-absorbing cushion is placed at the bottom of the ditch, which is a filling of sand, and pipes are laid directly on it. If it is necessary to change the slope angle of the pipes, sand is poured in the right place.

An important operational parameter of the sewer system is the depth of the pipeline network. It must be below the freezing point of the soil in a given region. Otherwise, in winter, frozen wastewater can rupture the pipeline network and damage the sewer system. To carry out repair work We'll have to wait for the spring thaw.

How to properly insulate a pipe

To prevent the occurrence emergency situations In the cold season, it is better to insulate the sewer system. Many have good thermal insulating properties. modern materials, such as polyurethane foam, fiberglass or mineral wool. You can properly insulate a pipe by simply wrapping it with insulation and placing it in a shell made of a mixture of asbestos and cement.

Options for insulating external sewerage

You can also attach plastic film over the thermal insulation. In cold northern regions, to protect sewer pipes from freezing, the insulating layer is additionally equipped with an electric heating system. In any case, the pipeline network must be laid below the level of soil freezing depth, especially if snowdrifts that melt in the spring form on the surface. An interesting experience in laying external sewer pipes can be gleaned from the following video.

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Features of the sewerage device

Despite the fact that people today strive to do more and more in order to get closer to the maximum comfortable conditions residence in many populated areas There is not only no centralized sewage system, but also no water supply. Both can be successfully dealt with as follows. A few words have already been said about the water supply system (in this case, the old proven method will come to the rescue - installing a well), and with the sewage system, the issue is resolved with the help of such a structure as a home sewer system. On modern stage this design is a complex that directly includes sewerage equipment, communication mechanisms (pipelines) and engineering wastewater treatment plants(septic tanks, cesspools). Depending on the design of the sewer system, we can conclude that it is designed to take wastewater from the source (from the sink, bathtub or toilet), carry it through the house (more precisely, under it), remove it outside and finally disinfect it and cleanse.

It is worth mentioning what can result from improper installation of the sewer system. The most harmless option would be a constantly clogged sink or bathtub. This may happen due to the fact that low-quality material was used during installation or the pipes will be thinner than required sanitary standards. In addition to the fact that illiterate installation can cause blockages, it quite often becomes the reason that the water (intended for drinking and washing) in the well can be poisoned by feces.

This usually happens when the joints between the pipes are not well secured.

As a result, leaks are observed, and wastewater saturates the soil and goes even into its deepest layers, including the ability to reach a well. drinking water, which as a result will become completely unsuitable for consumption.

How to properly carry out work on the removal of a sewer pipe?

In addition to all of the above, the soil saturated with liquid begins to vibrate and this can negatively affect the construction of the house. So, over time, you may notice cracking in the foundation or even walls. Well, the most unpleasant sign of a malfunction or malfunction in the sewerage system, and at the same time the most obvious, of course, will be an unpleasant odor reaching all ends of your site (and maybe further). That is why it is necessary not only to correctly connect all pipelines and all equipment with them, but also to dig a cesspool at an appropriate distance from the house. The process of removing the sewer pipe from the house depends on at what stage of the house construction you are doing it.

So, for example, in order to remove the sewer from a newly built house, it will be necessary to resort to drilling the foundation. In this case, the diameter of the hole should be slightly larger. This is necessary so that, as a result of possible shrinkage of the foundation (which happens very often with new buildings), it cannot have any impact on the pipe laid through it. If you have not completed the house, then removing the pipes intended for drainage will not be difficult. To do this, you can wall up the pipe during the process of laying the foundation, but do not forget to mark in which places it should be, so that later, while digging a ditch, you can get to the pipe. A house that has been standing for several years most likely will not settle, so the removal of the sewer pipe must again be carried out by drilling the foundation. In this case, you do not need to make a large gap (as in a newly built house); a hole whose diameter is 5 cm larger than the diameter of the outlet pipe itself will be sufficient.

If the sewer pipe is supposed to come from a house located in middle lane Russia, then the depth of the laid communications should reach half a meter, or even more (up to 70 cm). In more severe conditions, it is necessary to deepen the pipes to a much greater extent (after all, in severe frosts, the soil in some areas of our state freezes even 1 m deep), accordingly, everything that is in it will also freeze. That is why calculate the size of the recess as carefully as possible. Another mandatory component of the sewer pipe outlet system is that the pipe at the entrance to the foundation should not come into contact with it. To do this, a metal sleeve is inserted into the foundation hole. Next, it should be taken into account that the pipes should not come into contact with this part of the structure. In other words, there should be a gap between the pipe and its surrounding elements. To make this possible, either polystyrene foam or thermal insulation film is used to wrap the pipe. Thus, the hole is filled, preventing the sleeve from touching the pipe.

External work required to remove the home sewerage system

After all the household work on fastening the drainage pipes from the sinks, toilets, and bathtubs has been completed, as well as after drilling a hole in the foundation and installing a pipe in it, you can begin to install the drainage communications. In private houses, cesspools with septic tanks are used as a reservoir for the accumulation of wastewater. They should (for sanitary and hygienic safety reasons) be built at some distance from the house. Therefore, in order for all the drains to reach this hole, it is necessary to dig a trench. Its depth in the middle zone of our state should not be less than 50 cm, and the length will depend on how far the hole is from the house. Do not forget that all waste will drain only if the pipes are located on a slope. Accordingly, if initially the depth of the pipe (where it passes through the foundation) was 50 cm, then with each meter the trench will need to be deepened by about 2-2.5 cm.

At the bottom of the trench it is necessary to lay a sand cushion, which should be compacted (you can spill the sand with water for this). Pipes connected to each other should be placed on it. For external work, materials such as cast iron, asbestos cement or plastic are usually used. The final element of each sewer system is a cesspool or septic tank. The first element is the most common. The outlet pipe must go into the pit, which is a small but deep pit. You can’t just leave it as it is after digging it out, as the soil will definitely begin to crumble. In order to strengthen the cesspool, you must either purchase concrete rings(which are inserted into the finished pit), or build the walls in it using bricks. The bottom of the cesspool is not finished in any way, since most of the liquid will go through it into the deeper layers of the soil.

Sewerage and its arrangement in a private house is not such a difficult matter. You can actually do this even with your own hands, without spending cash for specialists. And at the same time, you get pride in your golden hands that were able to build the sewer system.

First, the whole family needs to confer and decide where the plumbing units will be located. In the kitchen, decide on the sink and dishwasher, don't forget about washing machine, bathroom (toilet, bathtub, sink). Pay attention to every detail.

Then we move on to the next point.

In order not to buy unnecessary parts, draw a sewerage wiring diagram ahead of time. View options various schemes wiring diagrams to help you create your circuit.

You don’t have to try to draw everything clearly and beautifully. A simple sketch will be enough to indicate the dimensions of the house. Mark the points where plumbing fixtures will be connected. Next, these points must be connected through lines (pipes), corners (bends). Do not forget to take into account the length of the pipes: 15 cm, 25 cm, 50 cm, 75 cm, 1 m, 1.5 m, 2 m and 3 m. Also take into account the bend angles: 15°, 30°, 45°, 67.5° and 87.5°. There are also elements such as crosses and tees, but their angles are presented in fewer variations: 45° and 87.5°. But the advantage of crosspieces is that several pipes can be connected to them, which have different diameter. You can look at the catalog of sewer pipes, where the assortment is offered, and then you will have a rough idea of the difference between them and what suits you best. It is worth noting that you should not give preference to newfangled brands, because... in general, all products are the same, but there is a slight difference in casting and rubber seals. Therefore, choose what you like, regardless of the brand.

When you plan to turn pipes (sewer) left/right, but keep in mind that you want to achieve as smooth transitions as possible. There is no need to make a 90 degree angle. It is better to install a pair of bends that have angles of 45 degrees or 3 angles of 30 degrees.

If it turns out that the pipe will pass through the entire area of the house, take care of inspection hatches, as well as cleaning.

It is advisable to install pipes around the house with 110 mm pipes. They clean everything better, and in general, there is less risk of clogging with this diameter. If you want to save money and lay one pipe from the kitchen to the bath, then keep in mind that such savings may have a bad effect in the future if the distance is long. Now you will save, and in the future you will spend money during operation. The savings in this case are questionable.

Sewage ventilation

The sewer needs ventilation. Be sure to think it through carefully. Sewerage is required for good performance, namely, to provide excellent flushing. You, most likely, have experienced the moment when you come to visit a private house, and there is both a bathroom and a toilet - everything is like in apartments. But the toilet does not flush so well, the pressure is weak and sluggish. And in general, there are many things that do not coincide with an apartment toilet besides flushing. After draining, for example, the water first stays slightly below the normal level, and then gradually rises to its place. Do you think this is bad plumbing? Actually, no. The fact is that this house did not have a sewer ventilation system. Slow flushing occurs because there is a breakdown between the toilet and the fluid that is leaving. And the amount of liquid in the toilet slowly builds back up as it goes down the drain after flushing, and air squeezes into the pipe. Everything is quite simple, as it turns out.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that after the flush has passed, the hydraulic valve closes the toilet (this is the liquid that is constantly in the toilet). No liquid flows through this hydraulic valve. And the water that goes through the pipe reveals a vacuum. The fact is that the liquid does not leave too quickly, so blockages form. It also happens that when the toilet is flushed, the liquid from the hydraulic valve is sucked in by the discharge, and the pipe from this sink takes on the function of ventilation until the liquid ends up in the hydraulic valve. Please note that the aromas coming out will not be the most delicious.

To prevent this from happening, make sure that your premises have a sewer system, i.e., do it yourself. Then everything will be fine. Discharge will not occur, because it will be compensated by fresh air from the street.

Sewerage: arrangement scheme for a private house

For example, you can run a vent pipe inside a bathroom duct. The chimney pipes are installed above the roof - this way they will go out into the street from different points. Under no circumstances should the exhaust part of the sewer be discharged into ventilation duct, because this is prohibited.

What to do if sewer ventilation is not provided? In this case, ventilation valves will help. To eliminate vacuum, it is not necessary to have access fresh air. The air available in the house is quite sufficient. You can completely remove the sewer vent in your house, but keep in mind that it won't smell too good. To avoid this stinking problem, install a sewer ventilation valve.

The valve looks small, it helps to let air from the house into the sewer, but at the same time, it does not let air into the house from the sewer itself. Therefore, any trouble can be easily dealt with.

Sewerage: installation in a private house

When you start installing a sewer system, consider a few details. For example, pipe slope. If the pipeline diameter is 40-50 mm, then 0.03 is required. A slope of 0.02 is required for a pipeline with a diameter of 85 and 100 mm. In simple words: if the pipe diameter is 40-50 mm, then the end of each meter of pipe should be 3 cm lower.

If the pipe is 110, then the installation should be smoother. Each end of the meter should be 2 cm below the beginning of the pipe.

You should also remember that 15 centimeters per 1 linear meter is the largest slope of the pipe, which should not be exceeded. The fact is that if this condition is not met, liquid waste will go away faster than solid waste and one day your days will become more fragrant and more fun.

First, see if this excess is enough? Calculate what the largest distance is and, depending on the length of the pipe, calculate the excess. This parameter is very important at the moment when you have to cover pipes under the floor - take this parameter into account, next comes the concrete floor, which also takes up part of the height and take into account the diameter of the pipe. This way you calculate the level where you need to cut into the pipe, which was laid during the foundation pouring period.

Agree that this is not so difficult and quite possible to do.

As we have already said, at the stage of pouring the basement part, the sewer outlet was concreted. This pipe must be cut to the level of your excess just below the zero mark. Now it is necessary to carry out sewer wiring. The pipe must be secured with special clamps. Some screw them directly to the base. This design is quite reliable, and then you can simply fill it with sand. The pipe will remain in place without changing the slope.

If you want the pipes to connect more easily, then lubricate them with something. Sunflower oil is a great option.

AFTER installation work is completed, turn on the garden hose. See if it's leaking from anywhere.

As you already understood from the above, self-installation sewerage is a fairly simple matter, easily done on your own in just a few minutes. You can easily cope with this task, even if you have never seen such cases in your track record. The main thing to remember is that a slope is necessary.

Removing sewer pipes from the house

To finally dot the i's, it is worth recalling the removal of sewage from the building. To do this, I would like to once again clarify about the foundation pouring. The great advantage is that at this moment the installation of the sewer pipe and the pipe for introducing water into the room had already been carried out.

Now, if you want to join it from the outside, you will only need to dig a trench in the required location, excavate the pipe, then you remove the bag and clean everything from dirt. Next, connect the sewer pipe that leads to.

It is worth saying once again that it is necessary to remember all the little things and nuances that play a big role in this important process. Despite the fact that these are small things, often their omission leads to sad consequences. And so, everything is quite easy and doable on your own, even if you are taking on this task for the first time.