To connect electricity, every apartment or private house needs an electrical panel. The size and content depend on the number of connected electrical appliances.
What is an electrical panel and why is it needed?
Electrical distribution panel - these are assembled in one place circuit breakers, RCDs, voltage relays and other devices designed to protect and disconnect electrical appliances connected after it.
Distribution boards can be equipped with sockets, an electric meter, ammeters and other devices.
Installation of electrical panels in an apartment or private house is carried out near the entrance, in a place that prevents water from entering it.
The ease of control of electrical appliances depends on the filling of the shield. For example, you can turn all electric heating or outdoor lighting off and on at the same time, from one place.
Drawing up an electrical panel diagram
Before assembling the electrical panel, it is necessary to draw up its diagram. It is drawn up according to the wiring diagram in the apartment. On it, all the equipment located in the distribution panel in the apartment is located after the electric meter.
The wiring diagram determines how many circuit breakers are needed and their rating, the parameters of the RCD and other devices.
Electricity consumers can be divided into groups, each of which has its own machine. This is indicated on the electrical panel diagram.
Important! An electrical panel diagram drawn up according to the rules of the PUE (electrical installation rules) is important for correct installation distribution boards.
Principles of distribution of electricity consumers into groups
For ease of maintenance, consumers are divided into groups, each of which is switched off by a separate circuit breaker installed in the electrical distribution panel.
In panel boards, electrical networks are divided into groups according to different criteria:
- By current strength. A separate powerful automatic switch turns off electric stoves and electric heating, as well as low-power lighting. This is done because the rated current of the circuit breaker to which the stove is connected is higher than the permissible current for the cable laid in the network for lighting. Therefore, this machine will not be able to protect this wire.
- By directions. Electrical wiring going to different parts of the apartment or to the house and garage are turned off by separate automatic devices for ease of operation.
- By function. Sockets and lighting, interior lighting and outdoor, work and emergency lighting.
Is an RCD necessary?
An RCD or differential circuit breaker is installed to protect people from electric shock.
These devices operate on the principle of comparing currents in the neutral and phase wires. In a healthy network these values are equal. If the insulation between parts of electrical equipment that are energized and a grounded housing is broken or a person touches such parts, this equality is violated, which causes the protection to operate.
Such devices differ in response current and are connected one for the whole house or several, one in each part of the electrical circuit.
Important! Installing an RCD in the network can save the health or lives of people living in the house.
The difference between an RCD and a differential circuit breaker is that the differential circuit breaker combines the functions of an RCD and a circuit breaker. It is more expensive than both of these devices together, but it takes up less space in the panel.
Installing a voltage relay
All household electrical appliances and electronics are designed for 220V voltage. But in case of accidents in the electrical network - burnout of the neutral wire, short circuit between the neutral and phase wires, and in other cases, it can increase to 380V, which leads to equipment failure.
A voltage drop below permissible limits is also dangerous - if the TV or computer simply does not turn on, the compressor of the refrigerator and air conditioner will burn out.
To prevent such situations, a LV voltage relay is installed.
Unlike an RCD, only one such device is needed, with a rated current no less than that of the input circuit breaker.
How to calculate the number of places in an electrical panel
In modern panels, the equipment is installed on a DIN rail. This is a shaped steel, or less often plastic, bar on which machines and other devices are installed. At the base of these devices there are special grooves and latches with which they are attached to the rail.
The width of all circuit breakers, RCDs and other protection devices installed on a DIN rail is standard and measured in modules. The size of one module is equal to the width of a single-pole circuit breaker.
To determine the number of places in the shield you need:
- draw up a diagram of the electrical panel;
- according to this diagram, write a list of all installed equipment indicating the width in modules;
- calculate the total width of all devices.
Important! The width of electrical panels upon purchase is also measured in modules. This is the size of the hole for installing electrical appliances. In some designs, it can increase by breaking out the plates in the outer cover.
How to choose a good electrical panel?
The quality and reliability of the electrical panel in the house depend mainly on the quality of the equipment, but what the distribution panel will be like also matters.
Eat different types apartment electrical panels. The choice depends on the number of modules and specific conditions. Preference should be given to plastic shields with the following qualities:
- a metal, rather than plastic, DIN rail is installed inside - such a strip provides more reliable fastening of protective equipment;
- hinged lid - additionally protects the machines from accidental activation and mechanical damage;
- There is a terminal block for grounding wires - if it is missing and there is a ground connection, the terminal block will have to be installed additionally.
Reference! In cables, the insulation of the grounding conductor is yellow or yellow-green.
If there is a significant amount of equipment, preference should be given to boxes, inside of which there is a frame with DIN rails installed on it. If 2-3 machines are easy to install in an installed switchgear, then connecting 5-10 or more is difficult. In this case, the frame is removed, installation and connection are made on the table, and it is installed back.
How to choose modular equipment in an electrical panel
The equipment installed in the electrical panel is selected primarily based on the total current of the devices connected after specific protection devices.
The current of the circuit breakers must ensure the operation of all electrical appliances simultaneously, but not exceed the permissible current for the wiring.
For example, the total power of electrical appliances is 5 kW. The total current of these devices will be, according to the formula, the rated current of the machine should not exceed this value, otherwise there is a danger of cable overheating and failure.
For reliability, the permissible current of the RCD and voltage relay is selected greater than the current of the circuit breaker, which is located in the same circuit with it.
In addition, sockets, ammeters, starters for turning on electric heating and other equipment are installed in the assembled electrical panel.
Assembly and installation of the panel on the wall
Installation of an electrical panel on the wall is done in two ways - external, or overhead, and internal, or mortise. After installing the box in place, the electrical panel is assembled.
External mount
This is a simpler method, but less aesthetically pleasing. Moreover, there is a danger mechanical damage shield during operation. This installation is carried out as follows:
- an empty box without an outer lid is applied to the wall and the installation locations of the dowels are marked through the mounting holes;
- in the marked places, holes are drilled in the wall and the plastic parts of the dowels are driven in;
- The box is placed against the wall and dowels are driven into the mounting holes.
If the shield is large and metal, then anchor bolts are used instead of plastic dowels.
Indoor installation
Internal installation is more complicated, but the result is better:
- the box is applied to the wall, and its contours and cable entry points are marked;
- using an angle grinder or a hammer drill, recesses are cut for installing the electrical panel and suitable cables;
- dowels or anchor bolts the cabinet is fixed at the installation site;
After installation, assembly and connection, the gaps around the switchboard are filled with putty, cement or polyurethane foam. You can assemble such an electrical panel yourself or purchase a ready-made one.
How to assemble an electrical panel diagram
The assembly of an apartment plastic electrical panel from several circuit breakers is carried out at the installation site, but when assembling an electrical panel circuit for a private house, consisting of large quantity equipment, it is more convenient to do this on the table.
To connect the upper terminals of circuit breakers in switchboard It is convenient to use special combs for electrical wiring. They are available in one, two or three-pole. This depends on the number of phases of the electrical circuit of the distribution board.
The procedure and rules for installing all types of electrical panels and assembling electrical circuits with your own hands do not change:
- when connecting circuit breakers and electrical panel protection devices in the house suitable wires join from above;
- more than two wires, wires of different sections, or a rigid and flexible wire are not connected to one terminal;
- The cross-section of the jumpers is selected equal to or greater than the cross-section of the cables.
- the wires differ in the color of the insulation - neutral wires are blue, and phase wires are brown.
With minimal electrical installation experience, you can assemble an electrical panel with your own hands without any problems:
- The equipment is arranged according to the electrical diagram. There are two options for location - according to significance (first all introductory, then RCD, etc.) and according to directions.
- Places for installing comb tires are marked and the required length is cut. The ends of the combs are closed with plugs.
- From the lower terminals of the input circuit breaker, phase and zero are “distributed” to the equipment connected after it. To do this, cut off pieces of wires desired color and sections of such length that they fit perpendicularly, without tension, into the terminals.
- Distribution of phase and zero can be done using jumpers from pieces of PV3 wire of the corresponding color.
- The assembled electrical panel is being connected. When installing on site, a suitable cable is attached, and when assembling the distribution board on a table, using a piece of cable and a plug. The input circuit breaker turns on, and then all protection devices. The serviceability of the RCD is checked by pressing the “Test” button.
- The tester checks the presence of voltage at the terminals to which the outgoing cables are connected.
Important! According to the new PUE standards, it is prohibited to clamp multi-core wires into terminals. For this purpose, special NShVI tips are used.
Setting up and operating the switchboard
After assembling the electrical panel and installing the electrical panel in the apartment, all switches are set to the “off” position and commissioning work begins:
- Before checking the shield, you must connect electrical devices– sockets, switches, lamps and powerful consumers.
- Voltage is supplied to the electrical panel and the tester checks the correct connection of the phase and zero.
- The RCDs and automatic circuit breakers are turned on, then their functionality is checked by pressing the “Test” button.
- The tester checks the voltage at the output of the circuit breakers.
- Powerful electrical appliances turn on. There should be no sparking or heating of the devices.
- The voltage in the sockets is checked.
- The lighting is checked.
- In this mode, the electrical panel should operate for several hours.
- If small children live in the house, then the distribution panel is locked.
If the tests are successful, after installing the electrical panel in the apartment, it is closed with a lid with a diagram of the electrical panel pasted on it. If during the commissioning process the electrical panel diagram changes, this is noted on the drawing.
All empty seats in the lid after the assembly of the electrical panel is completed, they are closed with plugs.
The distribution panel is not a “set it and forget it” design. After installation of distribution boards, they require periodic monitoring:
- After a month of operation, the distribution panel opens and the terminals in it are tightened.
- Adult residents of the apartment must be told about the rules for operating the electrical distribution panel and the procedure to follow when the protection is triggered.
- Once a month, the serviceability check of RCDs and automatic circuit breakers installed in distribution boards is repeated.
Even a novice electrician can assemble an electrical panel on his own. Therefore, installation of an electrical panel is accessible to anyone who is on friendly terms with a screwdriver and pliers.
An electrical panel in a private house, country house, or apartment performs a dual function: it provides input and distribution of electricity and creates safe conditions operation. If you want to understand a not so simple issue, you can assemble the electrical panel with your own hands. The input machine and the meter must be installed by representatives of the electricity supply organization, but then, after the meter, you can assemble the circuit yourself (although they do not like to lose money). True, before putting the house into operation, you will need to invite them so that they are present during the start-up, check everything and measure the ground loop. All this - paid services, but they cost much less than a complete shield assembly. If you do everything correctly and according to the standards, it will turn out even better on your own: after all, you are doing it for yourself.
What should be in the shield
Both in an apartment and in a private house there are several options for the layout of the shield. This mainly concerns the installation location of the input machine and the counter. In a private house, the meter can be placed on a pole, and the machine can be placed on the wall of the house, almost under the roof. Sometimes a meter is installed in a house, but this is if it was built a couple of decades ago. Recently, metering devices are installed in the house extremely rarely, although there are no regulations or instructions on this matter. If the meter is located indoors, it can be placed in a panel; then when choosing a panel model, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the meter.
In some apartment buildings the meters are in boxes on stairwells. In this case, the cabinet is needed only for RCDs and automatic machines. In other houses it is located in the apartment. When upgrading the electrical network, you will have to buy a cabinet so that the meter can fit in there, too, or buy a separate box for the meter with an input machine.
Safety is very important when designing a power supply. First of all, it is provided for people: with the help of an RCD - a residual current device (number 3 in the photo), which is installed immediately after the meter. This device is triggered if the leakage current exceeds a threshold value (there is a short circuit to ground or someone sticks their fingers into the socket). This device breaks the circuit, minimizing the possibility of electric shock. From the RCD, the phase is supplied to the inputs of the machines, which are also triggered when the load is exceeded or when there is a short circuit in the circuit, but each in its own section.
Secondly, it is necessary to ensure the normal operation of household appliances and electrical appliances. Modern complex technology is controlled by microprocessors. They require stable power to function properly. Having observed the voltage in our network for some time, it cannot be called stable: it varies from 150-160 V to 280 V. Imported equipment cannot withstand such a variation. Therefore, it is better to turn on at least some groups of machines that supply power to complex equipment through. Yes, it costs a lot. But during voltage surges, the control boards are the first to “fly”. They are not repaired here, but simply replaced. The cost of such a replacement is about half the cost of the device (more or less depends on the type of device). It's hardly cheaper. When assembling the electrical panel with your own hands, or just planning it for now, remember this.
One example of a panel layout for a small circuit - for 6 machines
The stabilizer is installed on one or several groups and is turned on after the RCD and before the group circuit breakers. Since this is a rather large device, it won’t be possible to install it in a panel, but you can install it next to it.
Also, two buses are installed in the panel: grounding and grounding. All grounding wires from instruments and devices are connected to the grounding bus. The wire comes to the “zero” bus from the RCD and is fed to the corresponding inputs of the machines. Zero is usually designated by the letter N; when wiring it is customary to use blue wire. For grounding - white or yellow-green, the phase is carried out with a red or brown wire.
At self-assembly electrical panel, you will need to purchase the cabinet itself, as well as the rails (called DIN rails or DIN rails) on which the circuit breakers, RCDs and switches are attached. When installing the slats, check with a level that they are horizontal: there will be no problems with fastening the machines.
All machines must be connected to each other. This can be done using conductors - connecting their inputs in series, or using a ready-made connecting comb. A comb is more reliable, although it costs more, but if you take into account the time that you will spend connecting all the machines, it is unlikely that a few tens of rubles are of such fundamental importance.
Scheme for several groups
Power supply schemes are not always simple: groups of consumers are divided into floors, outbuildings, lighting for the garage, basement, yard and local area. If there are a large number of consumers, in addition to the general RCD after the meter, they install the same devices, only of lower power, for each group. Separately, with the mandatory installation of a personal protective device, the power supply to the bathroom is removed: this is one of the most dangerous rooms in a house or apartment.
It is very advisable to install protective devices on each of the inputs that go to powerful household appliances(more than 2.5 kW, and even a hair dryer can have this power). Together with a stabilizer, they will create normal conditions for the operation of electronics.
Also not the most complex circuit, but with a higher degree of protection - more RCDs
In general, when designing the exact design, you will have to find a compromise: make the system safe without spending too much money. It is better to buy equipment from trusted companies, but it costs a lot. But power grids are not an area where you can save money.
Types and sizes of electrical panels
We will talk about cabinets/drawers for installing automatic machines and other electrical equipment, and their varieties. Depending on the type of installation, electrical panels are available for outdoor and indoor installations. The box for outdoor installation is attached to the wall with dowels. If the walls are flammable, an insulating material that does not conduct current is placed underneath. When mounted, the external electrical panel protrudes above the wall surface by about 12-18 cm. This must be taken into account when choosing its installation location: for ease of maintenance, the panel is mounted so that all its parts are approximately at eye level. This is convenient when working, but can pose a risk of injury (sharp corners) if the location for the cabinet is poorly chosen. Best option- behind the door or closer to the corner: so that there is no possibility of hitting your head.
A panel for hidden installation requires the presence of a niche: it is installed and walled up. The door is flush with the wall surface; it may protrude a few millimeters, depending on the installation and design of the particular cabinet.
The cases are metal, powder-coated, and plastic. Doors are solid or with transparent plastic inserts. Various sizes - elongated, wide, square. In principle, for any niche or conditions you can find suitable option. One piece of advice: if possible, choose a closet larger size: it is easier to work with, this is especially important if you are assembling an electrical panel with your own hands for the first time.
When choosing a building, they often operate on such a concept as the number of seats. This refers to how many single-pole circuit breakers (12 mm thick) can be installed in a given housing. You have a diagram with all the devices listed on it. You count them taking into account the fact that double-pole ones have double width, add about 20% for the development of the network (suddenly you buy another device and there is nowhere to connect it, or during installation you decide to make two from one group, etc.). And for such a number of “seats”, look for a shield with a suitable geometry.
Installation and connection of elements
All modern automatic devices and RCDs have a unified mounting for a standard mounting rail (DIN rail). On back side they have a plastic stop that snaps onto the bar. Place the device on the rail, hooking it with the notch on back wall, press your finger on bottom part. Once clicked, the item is installed. All that remains is to connect it. They do it according to the scheme. The corresponding wires are inserted into the terminals and the contact is pressed with a screwdriver, tightening the screw. There is no need to tighten it too much - you can squeeze the wire.
They operate with the power off, all switches are turned to the “off” position. Try do not handle wires with both hands. Having connected several elements, turn on the power (input switch), then turn on the installed elements one by one, checking them for the absence of a short circuit (short circuit).
The phase from the input is supplied to the input circuit breaker, from its output it goes to the corresponding input of the RCD (place the jumper with copper). In some circuits, the neutral wire from the water is supplied directly to the corresponding input of the RCD, and from its output it goes to the bus. The phase wire from the output of the protective device is connected to the connecting comb of the machines.
In modern schemes the input machine is installed two-pole: he must simultaneously disconnect both wires (phase and neutral) in order to completely de-energize the network in the event of a malfunction: this is safer and these are the latest electrical safety requirements. Then the circuit diagram for switching on the RCD looks like in the photo below.
To learn how to install an RCD on a DIN rail, watch the video.
After required quantity devices are mounted on a mounting rail, their inputs are connected. As they said earlier, this can be done with wire jumpers or a special connecting comb. See the photo for what the wire connections look like.
There are two ways to make jumpers:
- Cut the conductors into the required sections, expose their edges and bend them in an arc. Insert two conductors into one terminal, then tighten.
- Take a long enough conductor and strip off 1-1.5 cm of insulation every 4-5 cm. Take pliers and bend the exposed conductors so that you get interconnected arcs. Insert these exposed areas into the appropriate sockets and tighten.
They do this, but electricians say the quality of the connection is poor. It is safer to use special tires. Under them on the case there are special connectors (narrow slots, closer to the front edge), into which bus contacts are inserted. These tires are sold by the meter and cut into pieces of the required length using ordinary wire cutters. Having inserted it and installed the supply conductor in the first of the machines, tighten the contacts on all connected devices. Watch the video on how to connect machines in a panel using a bus.
A phase wire is connected to the output of the machines, which goes to the load: to household appliances, to sockets, switches, etc. Actually, the assembly of the shield is finished.
Selecting machines for a house or apartment panel
IN electrical panel Three types of devices are used:
- Machine. Turns the power off and on manually, and also triggers (breaks the circuit) in the event of a short circuit in the circuit.
- RCD(residual current device). It controls the leakage current that occurs when the insulation breaks down or if someone touches the wires. If one of these situations occurs, the circuit is broken.
- Diff. machine(). This is a device that combines two in one housing: it monitors both the presence of short circuit and leakage current.
Differential automatic machines are usually installed instead of a combination - RCD + automatic. This saves space in the panel - it requires one less module. Sometimes this is important: for example, you need to turn on another power line, but there is no space for installation, just like there is no free machine.
In general, two devices are often installed. Firstly, it is cheaper (differential circuit breakers are more expensive), secondly, when one of the protective devices trips, you know exactly what happened and what to look for: a short circuit (if the circuit breaker was turned off) or a leak and possible overcurrent (triggered RCD). You will not find this out when the automatic machine is triggered. Unless you install a special model that has a flag indicating what malfunction the device was triggered by.
Automatic circuit breakers
Automatic circuit breakers selected by current, which is necessary for consumers of this group. It is calculated simply. Add up the maximum power of all simultaneously connected devices in the group, divide by the network voltage - 220 V, and get the required current power. Take the device rating a little higher, otherwise when all loads are turned on, it will turn off due to overload.
For example, adding up the power of all devices in a group, we got a total value of 6.5 kW (6500 W). Divide by 220 V, we get 6500 W / 220 V = 29.54 A.
The current ratings of the circuit breakers can be as follows: (in A) 6, 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63. The closest larger one to the given value is 32 A. This is what we are looking for.
Types and types of RCD
RCDs have two types of action: electronic and electronic-mechanical. The difference in price for a device with the same parameters is large - electronic-mechanical ones are more expensive. But you need to purchase them for a shield in your house or apartment. There is only one reason: they are more reliable, since they operate regardless of the presence of power, while electronic ones require power to operate.
For example, the situation is this: you are repairing wiring, for example, a socket, and for this purpose you have de-energized the network - turned off the input circuit breaker. In the process, the insulation was damaged somewhere. If an electro-mechanical RCD is installed, it will operate even in the absence of power. You will realize that you did something wrong and will look for the reason. Electronic equipment is inoperative without power, and if you turn on a network with damaged insulation, you may have problems.
To understand which device is in front of you, it is enough to have a small battery and a couple of wires on hand. Battery power is supplied to any pair of RCD contacts. The electro-mechanical one will work, but the electronic one will not. More details about this in the video.
- type AC - alternating sinusoidal current;
- type A - alternating current + pulsating direct current;
- type B - alternating + pulsating direct + rectified current.
It turns out that type B gives the most complete protection, but these devices are very expensive. For a house or apartment panel it is quite enough, type A, but not AC, which are mostly sold because they are cheaper.
Except type RCD, it is selected according to current. Moreover, according to two parameters: nominal and leakage. A nominal one is one that can pass through the contacts without destroying (melting) them. The rated current of the RCD is taken one step higher than the rated current of the machine installed in pair with it. If a machine is needed for 25 A, then take an RCD for 40 A.
In terms of leakage current, everything is even simpler: only two ratings are installed in electrical distribution boards for apartments and houses - 10 mA and 30 mA. 10 mA is placed on a line with one device, for example, a gas boiler, washing machine, etc. as well as in rooms where a high degree of protection is necessary: in a children's room or bathroom. Accordingly, a 30 milliamp RCD is installed in lines that include several consumers (devices) - on sockets in the kitchen and rooms. Such protection is rarely installed on lighting lines: there is no need, except for street lighting or in a garage.
RCDs also have different response delay times. They are of two types:
- S - selective - triggers after a certain time after the appearance of the leakage current (quite a long period of time). They are usually placed at the entrance. Then, when emergency situation, first the device on the damaged line is turned off. If the leakage current remains, then the “senior” selective RCD will operate - usually this is the one located at the input.
- J - also triggers with a delay (protection against random currents), but with a much shorter delay. This type of RCD is placed in groups.
Differential automatics there are the same types How RCD and are chosen in exactly the same way. Only when determining power by current do you immediately consider the load and determine the rating.
For a few explanations on installing a built-in cabinet for a panel and the connection procedure, see the video from a practitioner and generalist.
One important detail that is important for safety. There is a “test” button on the RCD or differential circuit breaker. When it is pressed, a leakage current is artificially created and the device must operate - the switch goes to the “off” position and the line is de-energized. This is how functionality is checked. This must be done at least once a month to be sure of the reliability of the protection. Check all the RCDs in the circuit one by one. This is important.
This is probably all the information you need to assemble an electrical panel with your own hands. You may still need to learn more about how to divide the workload into groups, about this.
Electrical network houses or apartments are not only about wires, sockets, light bulbs and switches. The more difficult and most important part electrical circuit counts electrical panel, which contains circuit breakers, RCDs, automatic devices and additional equipment. It is in electroshield The control unit for all electrical equipment is located in a separate area. Until recently, there were no electrical panels in the apartments. It was believed that it was quite enough switchboard, which is located on landing. On separate apartment there was an electric meter and a couple of automatic machines.
However, sometimes the meter was located in the apartment and there were two fuse plugs with it. However, progress does not stand still, energy consumption has increased several times, and safety requirements have changed. Suffice it to say that 30 years ago, consumption per individual apartment was limited to 800 W. Compare this figure with energy consumption today. One electric kettle consumes 1.5–2 kW, not to mention washing machines, microwave ovens, air conditioners, etc. It is clear that along with the increased energy consumption, the requirements for electrical equipment have also changed.
Before you start electrical installation work, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the apartment electrical panel, indicate what will be in it and how to connect it. When implementing such a scheme, the following factors must be taken into account:
1. Wiring type in the apartment: “star”, “loop”, in distribution boxes or a mixed version. The choice of wiring determines how many wires will fit to the panel. Their number can vary from one to several dozen.
2. Total power all electrical appliances in the apartment and separately the power consumption in the designated area. These values must be calculated in order to determine the nominal values of the machines.
3. Consider all load cases, for example, guests arrived and literally everything that was possible was included in the apartment: stove, air conditioning, computer and even a washing machine. If such calculations have already been made (you have determined the cross-section of the conductors), then it will be easier - automatic machines and other devices are selected for the cable. When it is rated for a current of 25 A, which corresponds to a cross-section of 2.5 mm² copper core, then the machine or RCD must be 16 A.
4. What type of electrical appliances? installed in the apartment. Remember that it is necessary to install an RCD on certain devices (for example, washing machines).
To better imagine sequence of actions when installation of apartment electro shield, we give an example of installing a specific scheme. In front of you is a two-room apartment.
It is known which devices will be installed in it and the number of separate zones, and a diagram of the electrical panel has been drawn up. Installation begins with choosing the installation location of the shield, its size and type. The shield is usually located in the hallway near front door. This is the most rational - you don’t have to pull the incoming cable far. Although this condition is not strict, you can install an electrical panel in the back room.
Example of a diagram - apartment electrical wiring, three-phase
It is located at a height of 1.5 m or at eye level so that it is convenient to reach with your hand. If there are children in the house, it makes sense to install the electrical panel higher and choose an option that can be locked with a key, for example, a metal ShchRV.
Example of a diagram - apartment electrical wiring, single-phase
View electro shield: outdoor or indoor installation, plastic or metal, with a transparent door or not - depends on the ease of installation and your preferences. For example, in plasterboard partitions It is most convenient to install a built-in panel, and on reinforced concrete walls - external installation. You won’t have to dig out a hole in the wall for it, which is very labor-intensive.
Electrical panel size depends on the number of devices that will be located in it. There are approximately 30 poles, or modules, in the diagram shown. One single-pole circuit breaker occupies one module. All electrical devices located in the panel have dimensions that are multiples of the width of this module. For example, a counter can take up space equivalent to that of 8 machines; to install it, you will need a box with 8 modules. By counting the number of machines and the sizes of other electrical devices, you can find out what size shield is needed. You don’t need to go to the store to buy it with a ruler. The shields are called that way: 12 modules, 36 modules, etc.
There are many types of them. In our case, we will need a box with 36 modules. There are some that may have space inside for a meter and separately for machines and other devices attached to a DIN rail, or only for mounting on a DIN rail. There are plenty of options. To select the right shield, you need to make a list of all the equipment that will be installed inside and consult with the salesperson in the store.
If electrointernal installation panel, then to connect a large number of wires to it, wide grooves are hollowed out, capable of accommodating a bundle of cables. For external use - appropriately sized boxes or a sufficient number plastic pipes. To insert wires into the plastic electrical panel, there are holes on the side panels around the perimeter, covered with break-out hatches. The metal shield has ready-made holes: at the top - for incoming cables, at the bottom - for outgoing ones. The wires at the entry and exit points of the shields in such boxes are protected using glands or couplings. If the metal box has a sealed lid, then installation of couplings is required.
Outer electro shield fastened to the wall using dowel nails or screws. The inner one can also be attached to the back cover and additionally secured along the edges with gypsum glue or alabaster. After the panel is installed in place and the wires are inserted into it, it is the turn of the electrical installation equipment. Inside any box there are special pins for attaching a DIN rail. Meters can be mounted on this rail or a special place inside the panel using conventional fasteners: screws or screws.
Installing machines is very easy: just insert them onto the DIN rail until you hear a click - and the device will be securely fixed to the rail. To remove or move the machine, just pull out its ear with a screwdriver - the device will be removed from the mount. The electrical panel, which is suitable for installing the devices shown in our diagram, has 3 DIN rails of 12 modules each. A 40 A two-pole input circuit breaker is placed on the first bar from the top on the left. Phase and zero are connected to its two poles, respectively. The machine will display symbols indicating which conductor to connect to what. A counter is installed next to the machine to the right of it.
Note. The devices in the shield can be placed in any order - it doesn’t matter, as long as they are connected to each other correctly. However, it is much more convenient when they are located one after another in the same sequence as in the diagram.
If you do not have permission to install, then you should not connect the shield - a specialist will do this. If you do connect it yourself, you need to show the switchboard to the electrician on duty, who will check everything and put a seal on the meter.
Note. It is not possible to consume more energy than indicated on the meter. The organization (housing office) chooses which meter will be installed for the apartment. For example, if the device says that it is designed for 5–40 A, then it will be impossible to consume more than 8.8 kW. The meter will simply turn you off.
Immediately behind it is a two-pole 40 A circuit breaker, similar to the one installed in front of the meter. In truth, this machine is clearly overkill; it simply duplicates the work of the first VA. However, if you want to play it safe, you can install it. The space on the first DIN rail is over, now you need to move to the middle one. The voltage relay is installed first on the left on the middle shelf. This is such a clever device that monitors extreme voltage values and keeps a record of its surges. Essentially, it duplicates the work of the VA, breaking the circuit if the current suddenly begins to rise or fall above or below the set values. In addition, the relay shows exactly when and how much the voltage changed. This additional control device is optional, but very useful if expensive electronic equipment is installed in the apartment.
Next in line are RCDs. After the voltage relay, the common line is divided into 3 zones, each of which is controlled by one RCD. Since the machine in the circuit in front of this device is designed for a rated current of 40 A, the RCD is installed with the same indicator. The response threshold for all 3 of these devices is 30 mA, which, in principle, is normal. However, it is better to install the RCD, which is responsible for the bathroom, with a threshold of 10 mA. You should not install one such device per connection oven and a washing machine with water heater in the kitchen. It is better to split these devices into different RCDs. The middle DIN rail is occupied, now you need to move to the bottom one. The entire lower bar is occupied by single-pole VAs. There are only 9 of them, so there is plenty of space. Each of these machines is responsible for a specific part of the circuit.
For example, the first and second from the left stand on 2 groups of sockets in the kitchen. This is correct, since the kitchen is the most powerful consumer; it houses a lot of electrical appliances. Another 2 machines control the power load in the bathroom, since it contains serious power equipment: a water heater and a washing machine. These devices are connected not through sockets, of which there should be fewer in the bathroom, but through distribution boxes and terminals. The last 2 machines in a row of 10 A each are installed on lighting, which is divided into 2 zones: living rooms and other rooms - bathroom, kitchen, corridor and toilet.
The diagram shows that there is a two-pole circuit breaker at the input. Then the apartment network is divided into 2 main zones: lighting and power. The RCD and the automatic power zone in front of it are protected, it is additionally divided into 3 parts and the RCD does not control the lighting zone. After the machines and other devices are in place, it is necessary to connect them to each other and to the network. This connection occurs only when the incoming cable is disconnected. You should start by installing 2 tires inside the shield on special stands, which must be used. In a plastic or metal box, such tires are installed in free space on insulating supports. These buses serve to connect neutral and grounding conductors together, since all equipment after the RCD is connected together only by phase conductors.
The busbars must be free to allow room for suitable wires. It is necessary to select a bus based on the number of wires suitable for it. In this case, it is better to choose a tire with 14 holes in order to have 2 in reserve. It is best to connect devices to each other using single-wire conductors, since they are well fixed in place and do not require special lugs to be installed on the exposed part. To connect the poles of the machines to each other, you can use a special single-pole comb busbar; If there is none, then simply twist the wires.
Connecting electrical devices is not difficult if you carefully read the diagram and take your time with the connection. Please note that the 2 wires on the far right in the diagram, responsible for lighting, do not have ground wires. If there are no fluorescent fixtures with a ground terminal, this is normal. When there is, you will have to install a three-wire wire for the lighting and connect the grounding conductor to the common ground bus.
After the equipment is connected to each other, the incoming cable and the wires extending to the power zones are connected. The last step: sign each machine - what exactly it belongs to. There are special windows for this. If there are none, then the inscriptions are made on plastic cover shield that covers inner part boxes The finishing touch is to turn on the apartment electrical panel. After this, you need to check the power on all wires using an indicator.
- You should always purchase a slightly larger shield for several groups. If there is a need to install additional equipment, you will not have to change it.
- You should not combine several electrical appliances with different purposes under one RCD, otherwise it will turn out that a hairdryer will break in the bathroom, and the computer in the living room will turn off. It is better to divide the zones geographically: bathroom with toilet, separate living rooms, kitchen.
- It is better to install the RCD after the machine according to the diagram, and it should be one step higher in terms of the rated current value. For example, a VA/RCD pair should be like this - 16 A/25 A. After all, the RCD does not respond to a short circuit. This should be done automatically, so it is better to choose a higher rating of the RCD so that it does not burn out. You can put equal values, there won’t be a big mistake.
- If the RCD protects several machines in a row and is placed in front of the machines according to the scheme, this is a violation. In this case, in front of the RCD there is usually introductory machine protection (and maybe more than one). This is prohibited, or rather, not according to energy supervision rules. According to this organization, there should be a VA machine on the incoming cable, then a meter, and only then an RCD. You can put a difavtomat in front of the counter.
- The optimal solution would be to install an RCD in each zone after the machine. However, looking at the prices, you have to combine several machines under one RCD.
- You should not install RCDs and breakers on sockets to which a computer will be connected. This tricky device can cause false triggering of devices, especially if the trigger threshold is not calculated.
- It is better to purchase a mechanical RCD rather than an electronic one - it is more reliable and does not depend on the operation of the network.
Apartment electro shield is not the only problem that a home electrician may encounter. After all, there is also floor electrical panel, in which, in theory, to manage home handyman You can't, but sometimes you have to. It is unlikely that you will have to install such a switchgear, but if you are serious about upgrading the electricity in your apartment, you cannot ignore it. There will be no great use in ultra-modern equipment inside the apartment if the power cable in the switchboard is made of retirement-age aluminum, and the energy supply is controlled by a single 25 A package switch, which is clearly not the latest model.
Let's figure out what's going on in the switchboard, which, as a rule, is locked, and the key is kept by the electrician on duty. This is the wiring from one power supply panel for several apartments. The principle is the same as that of a water supply system - one riser per entrance, from which there are branches to each user. True, the electricity then returns as zero, and the water supply ends in sewage. You should immediately warn: if you do not have access to the switchboard, then you should not climb into it, unless the machine cuts off the electricity and you will need to turn it on again. All work must be done by an electrician from the housing office.
The only thing that can be achieved is to buy materials and get modernization from the housing office. The electrician will do it, and you will watch. The switchboard must correspond to the apartment panel, if not in terms of equipment, then at least in terms of power and reliability. Inside the shield there is a picture that will make anyone horrified. These are tangled clumps of wires of unknown cross-section, connected together in a wide variety of ways, half-decayed insulation, dilapidated machines in cases covered with cracks. All this is neatly covered with dust, causing nostalgia (or allergies) for Soviet times.
As a rule, it is impossible to figure out which cable belongs to what - there are no tags or inscriptions on them. The cable leading to the apartment is identified by long experiments of turning off the input circuit breaker and poking a probe at all contacts, or approximately guessed by the direction. You can do this: draw up a diagram of what exactly needs to be done, buy materials and agree with an electrician to complete the work. It is best to cooperate with your neighbors to redo the entire shield.
Required actions:
- 1. Replace the cable coming from the riser with a copper cable of the appropriate cross-section. In this case, you need to connect the aluminum riser cable to the copper outgoing cable using a special terminal or clamp.
- 2. Replace old AE or package switches with modern circuit breakers suitable for amperage, which must be mounted on a DIN rail.
- 3. If the neutral and grounding wires are attached to the grounding bus and the common zero using old connectors, then it is better to replace them with newer and more modern ones.
There is another way to radically replace all equipment in floor electrical panel. If the counter is transferred to apartment electrical panel, then in the storey you can install a switch with fuse links or even without them. The main thing is that the housing office agrees with this.
It's step-by-step practical instructions for those who want to learn how to independently assemble and switch a distribution board. In the article we tried to describe in detail all the key operations, special attention paying attention to nuances that may be unknown to amateur electricians.
The assembly and disassembly of input distribution devices (IDU) is a multi-stage type of work, where each stage is extremely important, where there are no details. The shield must be safe and convenient to use; all its elements, combined into a system, must properly perform the functions assigned to them:
- energy control;
- consumer and circuit management;
- providing selectively triggered protection.
You can organize an electrical panel yourself, but to do this, a home craftsman must have electrical installation skills above the minimum level. To design an ASU and select components, it would be helpful to understand the processes and know the rules. Next, we will look at the assembly of electrical panels using the example of fairly extensive systems in order to cover a wider range of issues.
We design an electrical panel
It is better for a non-professional to do this when all the wires have already been laid and all the circuits have been taken into account. At the development stage, we must create working drawings for ourselves, according to which subsequent work will be carried out, and also find suitable specifications for components and accessories.
Consumer accounting, group creation
We need to start by drawing up full list consumers, if it was not done during wiring installation. This will not include the iron or sconce in the hallway, but each wire coming to the switchboard, which must be recorded and designated with a number.
If according to the scheme it is supposed to connect more than two conductors to one modular device, then it is worth purchasing terminal blocks to reliably and accurately make a branch. They can also be designed for DIN rail mounting.
To transfer voltage between modular devices (RCDs, automatic machines) in the same row, it is convenient to use insulated combs. They provide good contact, withstand heavy loads, save time, and improve the ergonomics of the assembled switchboard. You can purchase combs of different lengths and cut them as needed (also purchase side plugs).
To connect multi-pole automation, there are combs for several independent rows.
Between the rows of modular devices, the phase will have to be distributed with a piece of wire, then its stripped edge must be crimped into the tip. Products with a length of a centimeter or more are better suited. To clamp two conductors in one machine, it is worth using double lugs. There are models with 3 wires, with wires of different sections.
Assembling and disassembling the distribution board
Before starting work, we recommend organizing emergency lighting. working area(as a last resort, use a headlamp when reconnecting). Use a table where you can lay out tools and accessories. Make several brackets on the wall to temporarily tie up wires that have not yet been connected. Hang the electrical panel assembly diagram in a convenient place for viewing. Check the completeness of the systems. De-energize the input cable.
1. Assembly and preliminary installation of the box
The shield body should be prepared:
- remove the plugs on the walls of the box (sometimes you have to cut additional holes for entering wires);
- screw the DIN rails;
- we install neutral and grounding buses on the walls;
- remove the door (if there is one);
- connect the mounting brackets.
Now the built-in drawer can be temporarily fixed in place, checking the quality of the created niche. It is immediately removed to make it convenient to work on the wires; in addition, many professional electricians prefer to do part of the work on a workbench (you can install automation and install the necessary jumpers).
2. Preparing the wires
First you need to approximately adjust them in length. This is especially true if there is no cavity in the wall where excess wire can be placed (for example, if the niche in brickwork). But you need a reserve so that you can easily reach the most distant circuit breaker or bus.
Attention! Sometimes, if there are a lot of consumers, it makes sense to run some of the conductors into the box from above, and some from below. Therefore, group them according to this characteristic and collect them in bunches.
Now the outer insulation is removed from the wiring cables. It is better to do this with a special tool that does not damage the primary insulation of the cores.
It is necessary to clean so far that at the entrance to the box the wire still remains with external insulation. Ideally, a corrugated channel (or pipe) should also fit in.
Attention! When removing the outer insulation, the markings are also lost (often the wires are simply labeled on top with a marker during installation). Therefore, we recommend immediately marking the conductors at the same time as cleaning. It is convenient to use masking tape, on which you can make any notes.
3. Installing the shield in place
We lay all the conductors and the input cable inside. It makes sense to align the wires in one layer; it is advisable to take into account the order of arrangement of the machines (see the diagram) to which they will be connected.
4. Arrangement of modular devices on DIN rail
We produce according to the scheme, strictly observing the compliance of denominations. Usually, the RCD is fixed first, and immediately behind it are its circuit breakers; at the end, independent circuit breakers and other modular devices are placed.
It is not necessary to install all the automation at once; some craftsmen like to power the RCD and the automatic devices one by one, as they are mounted on the rail. At the same stage, the meter is installed, if its place is in the shield.
5. Switching
We alternately connect the cores of each circuit or specific consumer to our machines and buses. There are several important points here:
- we work in order, for example, from right to left;
- we bring the core to the fixation point and cut off the excess;
- we lay wires in the shield horizontally and vertically, turns only at right angles;
- if there is not enough space, or it is not possible to run wires from different sides of the box, you can run the wires behind the DIN rail.
- We strip the ends of the wires from the main insulation by about 1 centimeter (we use a special tool);
- Be sure to put lugs on soft conductors;
- we place the ends under the clamp of the machine and tighten the terminal tightly;
- We supply voltage to the machine from above, and connect the conductor from below (although most devices are double-sided, this is a generally accepted standard);
- tugging the wire with our hands, we check the reliability of the fixation, while paying attention that the copper does not protrude above the machines, but that the insulation is not pinched;
- We collect bundles of wires together with plastic ties and place them behind the rail.
We distribute phase and neutral between modular devices. Non-professionals usually have difficulties with switching RCDs; how to do this can be seen in the panel diagram.
The main transfer in one row can be done with contact combs; in the absence of such, electricians sometimes use homemade jumpers. These should be rigid wires with a cross-section of 4-6 square.
6. Input connection
The input cable is clamped to the main circuit breaker (phase and neutral), and the grounding conductor goes directly to the bus. From the machine, phase and zero go either to the counter or are already distributed according to the scheme.
7. Final stage
If the wiring is ready, the consumers are connected and the electrical installations are in place, then you can alternately apply the load to individual lines. Each RCD is tested by pressing the corresponding button (the voltage in the controlled circuit must be turned off). If there are no problems, power the entire system. Now all that remains is to label the automation, attach the diagram to the door, and install the covers on the panel body.
Competent and careful assembly of electrical panels is the key to long-lasting operation of all wiring. But it is worth noting that you cannot save on components. High-quality automation from well-known manufacturers will avoid costly accidents and can save lives.
In the apartment modern man A huge number of electrical appliances are running, which create a large load on the network.
To ensure increased electrical safety, you can install an individual electrical panel in an apartment or house, this will allow you to control electrical appliances separately.
You can do this yourself, for example, during repairs or after replacing old wiring.
An ordinary electrical panel for an apartment does not contain many elements, and almost anyone can assemble it. The electrical panel includes:
Requirements for distribution panels
One of the main purposes of installing a switchboard in an apartment is to increase the level of electrical safety, therefore you need to take the requirements for its installation very seriously.
The electrical panel must comply with all the rules of GOST 51778-2001 and PUE- The shield must be accompanied by technical documentation, which describes the installed equipment, namely the number of devices and their rated current.
- The shield must have electrical safety sign with the specified voltage.
- The materials from which the shield is made must be non-flammable. The shield covering must not allow electric current to pass through. As a rule, it is heat-resistant plastic or metal with a polymer coating.
- must be marked, for example with tags indicating the connected devices.
- Ground and neutral terminal blocks should have no more than one wire per terminal. When choosing pads, you need to ensure that there are free terminals when connecting. Tires must be marked according to the rules of the PUE.
- The electrical panel must be grounded, this applies to both the body and its doors.
- The doors of the electrical panel must have elements for sealing.
- You should pay attention to Availability of a technical passport indicating certification data and characteristics.
- To connect the machines to each other, you need to use special “comb” busbars.
Assembly and connection diagram
To create an electrical panel diagram, you need to determine the type of power supply system in the house, divide electricity consumers into several groups, and based on this data create a diagram, using GOST 21.614 for graphic designation of all elements of the shield.
The type of power supply system may be indicated in the panel on the landing, otherwise this can be found out by contacting the housing office. There are three types of system, which differ in the way they are powered and grounded: TN-C, TN-S, TN-C-S.
TN-C - old type of power supply, includes a two-core copper or aluminum cable, the cable in the shield combines zero and ground.
TN-S, TN-C-S - this is more modern systems supplies, use a three-core cable and a separate cable for neutral and grounding in the switchboard on the floor. 
Then you should divide electricity consumers into several groups. For example, you can divide into groups the connection points for sockets in each individual room, switches, large consumers electric current like an air conditioner or boiler. Considering all these characteristics, a separate machine is selected for each group.
After this, they begin to draw a diagram of the electrical panel. It indicates all the elements using graphic symbols according to GOST 21.614, as well as all current consumers that are connected to them.
Scheme for assembling and connecting the electrical panel in the apartment:
Using the connection diagram, you can begin installing the electrical panel.
DIY installation and installation
First you need to select an electrical panel. For this you need to decide on the type of shield. It is recommended to install hidden panels with hidden wiring; with open wiring, it is better to install a hinged panel.
If the apartment does not have a special niche for installation built-in shield, then you will have to do it yourself, which creates additional difficulties, but such a shield will be well camouflaged. It is much easier to install a wall-mounted distribution panel in an apartment, all you need to do is secure it with a few screws, but it doesn’t always look good in the interior.
The next stage depends on how many groups all electricity consumers were divided into at the stage of developing the panel diagram. The number of machines used depends on the number of zones, as well as the size of the housing where they will be installed.
The case should be selected with a reserve for the number of installed machines, this will save money if you have to upgrade the power supply system. Before installing the shield, you must select its location in the apartment.
The shield should be located in an easily accessible place at a height of 1.5-1.7 meters from the floor level, so that it is not blocked by furniture or doors. The location for placing the shield is selected only once, so it is worth choosing it responsibly.You should also consider how other pieces of furniture and interior will be placed. If a hidden type switchboard is installed, then it is necessary to select a place where a niche can be built for it.
The following steps must only be carried out when the power supply is off. After turning off the electricity, you should lead the cable inside the case through the cable entries, after removing the plugs.
This completes the installation of the electrical panel. the further task is to install and connect the machines.
Installing an electrical panel is not difficult; it can be done independently. You just need to understand its structure, comply with all GOST and PUE requirements, as well as electrical safety rules. And after installation, check whether all elements work correctly.