If you are planning to install or change a light switch for the first time in your life, then this article is for you. We will try to explain as simply and in detail as possible what needs to be done using the example of the simplest switch - a single-key switch.
What kind of switch do you need (by type of wiring)?
Electrical wiring can be open (external) or hidden. Depending on this, they are used different types switches, they differ in their design and installation method.
Open wiring is most often used in homes with wooden walls. But it is not necessary; it can also be used in stone-concrete houses and apartments. Additionally, it is “hidden” in a corrugated hose or in a plastic cable channel. The name “hidden wiring” speaks for itself. It is laid in the thickness of the walls and ceiling.
In the first case, a wooden plate is first installed on the surface of the wall, and the device is already attached to it. In the second, the switch is built into a plastic or metal socket box mounted into the wall.
Photos of single-key switches for open and hidden wiring are presented in our gallery. In this article, we assume that your house or apartment has already been wired, and all you have to do is connect the electrical accessories.
Specifications
Standard specifications for a household switch are that it must be rated at 220 volts (V) and 10 amperes (A).
Count the number of wires
If there are two wires in open or hidden wiring, it is designed only for a single-key switch. If there are three, you can also connect a two-key one to it, which can give you additional comfort (dimmed light) and energy savings. Naturally, a two-key switch also requires a chandelier with at least two arms. Accordingly, different circuits for connecting switches are used.
When you are renovating a new building, all wiring is exposed. If you are going to replace the old switch, before going to the store, remove it and count the wires.
Even if you decide to put a new single-key in its place, if there are three wires, it will be better to choose a switch model that will allow you to combine two outputs into one. Otherwise, you will have to twist the wires, and this is inconvenient and unreliable. Or leave one wire leading to the lamp/chandelier not connected. In any case, you will have inconveniences where they could be avoided.
That's enough important point. Despite the fact that stores selling electrical accessories have salespeople with different levels of competence, usually their qualifications are still higher than those of the average buyer. And from them you can get information that will be very useful later if you connect the switch yourself.
First, try to deal with the aforementioned “three wire problem” if it exists.
Secondly, ask your consultant how to connect the wires to the switch. Now there are three main methods. Old, when the wire is pressed with a special terminal. Medium-old, where it is inserted into the hole, and then you need to tighten the screw, which will press the wire to the contact.
And a new one, in which the wire is simply inserted into the hole and it is almost impossible to get it back from there. This new way several years ago it migrated from the premium segment to middle and economy class products. He's "with a bang!" used by professionals because it saves a lot of time. But not very suitable for a beginner, who may have to reconnect the switch a couple of times to achieve the ideal result.
Thirdly, find out from the seller where the phase of this switch model is, where is zero. And, just in case, where is up and where is down.
It’s strange, but many manufacturers label their products in a very mediocre manner and not very clear to non-professionals. Some products use the letter L or number 1 for entry and number 3 or arrow for exit. And for some, even with the switch installed correctly, the company name is located “upside down”.
Because of this, even professional electricians have switches installed in reverse at home. In order to turn on the light, the key must not be pressed, but lowered. These are notes from real life.
Required Tools
- Switch
- Screwdrivers figured and flat. Different manufacturers use screws for different types of screwdrivers. But even if the central screw securing the switch cover to the body is figured, it is possible that it will be more convenient for you to tighten the screws that lift the “legs” with a flat screwdriver.
- Sharp knife (for removing insulation).
- Indicator screwdriver
Operating procedure
In this instruction we will try to combine the general procedure for installing a single-key switch, both for external and hidden wiring.
You only have to deal with two wires. One of them is “phase”, the second is “zero”. When connected to a phase, the light bulb in the indicator screwdriver lights up, but when in contact with zero, it does not.
- Turn off the electricity switchboard or otherwise disconnect the power supply.
- If necessary, strip the wires with a knife. If they are attached to the switch with bolts, you need to remove 1 centimeter of the wire from the insulation. If self-clamping connections - then only 0.5 cm.
- Remove the key. You can use your hands or a thin screwdriver (an indicator screwdriver will do).
- Remove the protective frame, which is mounted to the body either with screws or latches.
- Install the backing and attach the switch to it (for external wiring).
- Connect the stripped ends of the wires to the switch contacts. When screwing the screws, be sure not to overtighten so as not to damage the wire.
- Place the housing in the socket box and use a screwdriver to lift the fixing tabs. Here you need to achieve maximum contact, but not tear off the screw heads.
- Put the frame in place, then attach the key with your hands.
- Turn on the circuit breakers on the switchboard and check operation.
Photo of installation of a single-key switch
I remember distant school years: during a labor lesson, our entire eighth grade class was involved in practical work to install sockets and switches in a five-story building under construction, which is now called Khrushchev.
The teacher led everyone into one room, showed them the built-in socket boxes, two wires sticking out of them, and explained the circuit diagram for connecting a light switch with one key (there were no others then) and a socket.
More than half a century has passed since then, but those simple knowledge and skills still remain relevant, although the design of these electrical devices has undergone quite significant changes.
How the old one-key light switch wiring diagram works: 2 important principles
From that long-ago practical lesson, I remembered two main instructions from my teacher:
- Electrical wiring should serve people and not create dangerous problems. Therefore, all future work should be considered from the point of view of eliminating any risks.
- Safety electrical diagram ensured by reliable installation.
I will draw your attention to these two questions further.
What should be taken into account to ensure maximum human electrical safety when working with lighting devices
A single-key switch is designed to control the lighting of one working area regardless of the number of connected lamps.
The modern principle of electrical control of light through a household switch is shown in the diagram.
It also works in old buildings with Soviet wiring, made according to the system grounding TN-C. The only difference for them: the absence of a protective neutral conductor PE.
If you live in such a house, then you simply will not have the wire shown in the dotted yellow-green color.
Therefore, in some cases it makes sense to get rid of the backlight and remove its circuitry from the unit body in advance.
Rules for connecting a modern single-key switch in 5 steps
Step #1. Taking care of your own health and personal safety
We remove power from the section of the circuit where we have to work. We turn off circuit breakers or plugs with fuses.
Here we check the absence of voltage in the workplace and take measures against unauthorized supply.
Step #2. Calling the state of the wires connected to the socket box
One of them must supply the phase potential from the distribution box, and the second must provide electrical communication with the luminaires.
When the technician has experience working under voltage, it is permissible to check these issues with an indicator or voltmeter. Suitable for these purposes.
Step #3. Unpacking the switch, removing the top cover
To work, you need to imagine the structure of our product. I show its composition using the example of a model with two keys.
Usually, for any designs with one, two or three keys, there is a simple rule: you need to insert a thin blade of a screwdriver or knife into the gap between the key and the body and carefully press the top cover out of the crimp mount.
On selected models cases have special thin grooves. Some single-key covers can be completely removed and installed with your fingers without using a metal tool.
After separating the cover from the block, it’s time for the decorative frame and spacer.
Step #4. Wall mounting
Wires are connected to the terminals of the switching block and secured in the socket box in one of two ways.
The parts removed from it are installed on the mounted case and the removed key covers are pressed with a slight hand force.
Step #5. Test under load
This final stage should be carried out with full confidence that the circuit breakers are operational and will turn off an accidental short circuit. Think again about your own safety.
Personal impressions from the installation of a single-key switch from the Bylectrica company of the “Style” series: where is the mistake?
The appearance of this electrical product is quite attractive both from the front and from the back side. The backlight is originally integrated into the case cover.
Switching loads are stated at 10 amperes, operating voltage - 250 volts.
After removing the case from the packaging bag, I immediately started having problems removing the cover. First he examined it from all sides, then tried to separate it with his fingers: unsuccessfully.
I took a knife and tried to push the key cover up: it didn’t budge.
I made quite a big effort, but to no avail. I did not exceed the load so as not to damage plastic parts. After that, I began to look for instructions, but, except for the note that the installation should be performed by a trained specialist, I found nothing.
I began to examine the case from all sides and noticed two pairs of plastic latches.
I disengaged them and disassembled the body.
Inside on the cover I saw all the inserted mechanical parts of the switch. Moreover, the screw caps of the terminals are hidden, only the ends of the threaded part stick out. The switching unit housing is completely empty. But it should be the other way around.
The contact group that performs switching and circuit breaking looks impressive.
The plastic button lever built into the key makes the removable cover non-removable. A spring-loaded mechanism is inserted into it to control the contact switching. In the photo I took it out.
If, when disassembling the case with a knife, I had increased the force of pulling the key, then this unit would have been broken.
I designated in my own way all the components included in the design of the module.
I show the sequence of their assembly into a single switching unit housing. First, a fixed contact is established.
Then comes the turn of the moving contact. In this case, it must be inserted with a special edge into the groove of the housing. Next, I use tweezers to check the closing and opening of the contact group, their movement and the alignment of the centers.
The third step is to install the backlight unit. Its lower jumper should lie tightly on the plane of the lower fixed contact.
The upper contact plate of the backlight will be connected when the power is removed from the lamp using a brass bridge.
When this work is completed, put on the top cover. Please ensure that the spring-loaded mechanism rests on the central part of the contact plate. We check by switching the key.
We press the lid into the body until it stops so that the side latches slam shut. Once they engage, dismantling the switch without damaging the top cover or switching unit is problematic.
I came across such interesting products from the Bylectrica company in the “Style” series. Electrical installers will obviously stop buying it after the first acquaintance and attempt at installation.
Features of connecting single-key light switches with remote control
As a basis for consideration modern design The model of Sonoff product is taken. This is already the third modification of the electrical circuit under consideration.
After purchasing the Sonoff switch, it successfully fit into the bedroom interior, and I describe the main installation stages and difficulties that I had to encounter below.
What has changed in the electrical circuit of the module and how easier it is to connect the wires: personal experience
The attached instructions immediately indicate the need to connect such a single-key switch to the working zero in the circuit. It is required for the operation of the built-in control module.
However, the existing wiring in the apartment was laid back in Soviet era. Naturally, only two phase wires come into the socket box. There are no other ends, and this requires additional work.
Difficulties began immediately with determining the locations of hidden electrical points and the wiring route. The initial data was the location of the lamp on the central part of the ceiling and the old switch in the corner by the front door.
The junction box, as happens in such cases, was not visible. Everything is hidden behind a layer of wallpaper. It’s good that the ceiling is a very ordinary one, and not a suspended or tensioned structure.
I know from experience that in such multi-storey buildings, assembled from panel slabs, electrical lines can pass along the shortest paths in the most unexpected places, and not strictly vertically or horizontally at right angles.
I had to use it. My friend found a Woodpecker.
His functionality basically enough for this job. I began to check the route from the switch upwards towards the chandelier, and from there I returned again in the opposite direction.
The device showed the shortest route of wiring from the switch along the wall to the proposed location of the junction box. A straight horizontal line from the chandelier is laid along the ceiling to it.
The old switch was removed. An ordinary 2.5 square mm aluminum noodle sticks out of the socket box.
At the junction between the ceiling and the wall, where Woodpecker pointed, they removed a piece of baseboard and slightly moved a piece of wallpaper. We saw how the electrical wiring was connected.
There is no junction box. The wires are connected by twisting and welding and wrapped with electrical tape. The entire cavity was initially filled with old lumps of newspaper, and the inside was filled with fine gravel.
I can’t show you what it looked like - I forgot to take a photo, I immediately rushed to clean out the cavities in order to deal with the wires.
I took out about a liter of crushed stone, as much as I could. Some of it penetrated deeply into the cavities of the main line and did not allow the additional wire to be inserted freely.
I tried to push a steel wire from below the socket box, but halfway there it also hit a dead end and got stuck. There was one more backup option left, which had to be used in difficult situations.
Prepared three new copper wires to replace the old aluminum. I removed about 10 cm of insulation from them and tightly twisted the metal with pliers into one piece. I tried to straighten the noodles and tightly tied the created twist to the metal of its end with adhesive tape.
He began to pull out the old wire from the upper cavity under the ceiling, and at the same time pull in a new one. The hand strength was not enough: the remains of gravel and limited space. I had to grab the noodles with the jaws of the pliers and wind them on them using an additional moment of force, act at random.
Imagine it helped. The old wire was slowly pulled out and the new one was tightened. I bit off the rolled noodles with side cutters.
Connecting the wires below to the Sonoff module did not cause any difficulties. Everything is clear there: it is shown in the instructions and on the unit body.
About controlling modern lighting from different places
After installing a Sonoff light switch in the bedroom, you can control the light not only in the usual way through the sensor, but also using:
- included key fob remote control;
- and even via the Internet from a smartphone.
More detailed overview of functions remote control light from different places, even from anywhere in the world, I suggest watching the video clip of the owner of iShopper.
Concluding the material, I emphasize once again that the connection diagram for a light switch with one key has existed for a very long time and during this time has undergone minor modifications associated with the modernization of new equipment. On this topic, it is now convenient for you to write a comment or ask a question that we can discuss together.
With development, humanity has invented irreplaceable thing: electricity, it’s hard to imagine without it modern life. Thanks to this, in addition to sockets, light switches are always installed in every room. Switch - a structure that mechanically closes/opens electrical circuit, which allows the light bulb to turn on or off.
Division of switches into types
Before we discuss the topic of connecting the switch, let’s consider what options are provided by the manufacturers. Household switches are divided into several types:
With one on/off key
This type of switch is more primitive in structure. It contains a functioning module with a set of contacts; fastenings made in the form of metal antennae; frame; movable power key.
The main components are usually made of metal to improve contact. Sometimes you can find switch housings made from ceramics. Such elements are more resistant to electrical loads and can withstand about 32 A. But more often the switch body is made of plastic. Such raw materials are cheaper than ceramics, but the load on them should be lower (no more than 16 A).
This type of switch is selected if the lighting fixture has one lamp. It is possible to distinguish a subtype in switches with one key: backlit switches. The housing contains an LED light that helps locate the switch in a completely dark room.
When are switches used? If the light sources in the room do not require connection directly to the network using a cord, then a wall switch is installed in it. They are designed for chandeliers on the ceiling or lamps on the wall
Before choosing a switch, you need to consider the humidity in the room. For rooms with high humidity It is worth selecting switches with a higher degree of protection (IP 40).
Switches with multiple keys (usually their number does not exceed three)
In general, the structure of such switches is similar to the structure of single-key switches. The main difference is that an individual key closes/opens its individual lighting device. For large rooms, switches with a large number of keys have been developed. Examples of such switches can be studied in photographs in specialized literature or on the Internet.
Wall-mounted switches
Such switches are clearly visible and are used if the electrical wiring goes over the wall.
In-wall switches
This type of switch is installed in modern apartments, where the electrical wiring is hidden in the wall. These switches fit harmoniously into the interior and do not attract attention.
The switch - remote control - has also now become widespread. Modern lighting devices come together with remote controls. They allow you to adjust the desired flow and shade of light.
The remote controls have the function of turning on all the light bulbs of a lighting fixture or, conversely, creating a subdued atmosphere by extinguishing some of the light bulbs.
How to choose a switch location
Before you begin installing the switch, you should decide on its location. It is necessary to weigh all the pros and cons of its location. The most common location of switches is near the door. This is convenient when you can control the light in the entire room when leaving or entering. Other options are also possible. For example, switches are located at the head of the bed.
Before you begin installing the switch, you need to understand its connection diagram. Regulatory regulations for installation should be taken into account: the switch cannot be located closer than sixty cm from the shower stall and at least half a meter from the gas branch.
According to them, you also need to step back about 10 cm from the doors and almost a meter from the floor. In rooms with high humidity and large differences temperature regime, you should avoid installing switches.
Instructions for connecting a switch indoors
Before the start installation work you need to study the instructions for connecting switches and prepare all necessary equipment: knife, pliers, screwdriver, voltage indicator, gloves and glasses. After the tools are prepared, you can begin installation work.
The very first thing that needs to be done is to turn off the power to the apartment. In this case, it is necessary to de-energize the entire apartment, and not just the room in which the switch is planned to be installed.
Now it’s worth using a voltage indicator and inspecting all the wiring to confirm its safety and not receive a current discharge.
The second stage when installing a switch is the immediate preparation of the place where the switch will be located. This place should be thoroughly cleaned of the paint layer, dust and dirt should be removed. They will not allow the switch to be installed properly or leveled.
If the switch is after purchase, you must first unscrew it using a screwdriver. It is necessary to free the box from internal components. This will facilitate the process of connecting electrical wires to the closing contacts of the switch.
We proceed directly to connecting the wiring to the switch. Using pliers, you should remove unnecessary wires, leaving no more than fifteen cm. This size of wires is enough to conveniently mount the switch. If the wiring exceeds the specified length, they will not be hidden inside the breaker box.
Once you have removed the unnecessary wires, you can begin to perform a rather important step. Using pliers, you need to strip about two cm of the wiring, removing the outer insulation.
If the gap between the cleaned wires is made larger, there is a possibility of a short circuit during operation of the switch. To make it easier to connect the wires to the contacts, it is better to bend them.
Direct connection of the switch
How to connect the switch correctly can be found in various sources literature. It is worth noting that inside the wiring there are wires of different colors. Usually this is a brown wire that is responsible for the phase. And the yellow-green wire, which is responsible for grounding. When connecting wires to contacts, it is important not to confuse them.
You can distinguish the difference when installing switches with one or more keys. Basic rule: the brown wire is connected to the disconnector with the L symbol.
The placed wires must be clamped with the screws that come with each switch. Be sure to check the reliability of the attached wires. If the ends of the wires are not tightened enough, the contact will be interrupted and the switch will not function.
The span of connected wiring should be folded so that they fit in the switch box. When arranging the wires, you need to leave room for the switch itself to fit. By attaching the switch body, it can be lightly secured with screws. They do not need to be screwed in all the way; first, the switch needs to be aligned.
You can level the switch using a level that you prepared in advance. After the switch is aligned, be sure to tighten the screws tighter. The main thing is not to cut the thread on the screw head; if necessary, this will prevent its dismantling.
The final stage is the process of installing the housing and the switch key. This procedure is performed by hand, lightly pressing these parts to the places where they were at the very beginning.
If, after turning on the electricity in the apartment, the light in the room turns on using installed switch, it means the connection was successful.
Thanks to this detailed article, you can be convinced that installing the switch yourself is quite possible. The main thing is to prepare everything and carefully follow the instructions.
Photo - instructions on how to connect the switch yourself
Very often you need to independently branch out the wiring around the house, install sockets and switches. The main thing is to have instructions and a diagram of correct installation on hand. Since connecting a light switch with your own hands is very simple, everything can be done without the help of specialists.
Species
There are different types of light switches that are used to control lamps in an apartment or house. Let's look at the main ones:
- Single-key;
- Two-key;
- Three-key;
- Sensory;
- Remote.
The one-key light switch is the simplest of the existing ones. A metal bracket is installed into the device body using a screw connection. It controls the switch plate. On the sides of the bracket there are tabs, with the help of which the entire structure is installed in the box. There is also a compartment with wires in the case.
A two-key switch consists of two single-key switches in one housing. A special feature is the larger number of wire groups. You can connect chandeliers with a large number of bulbs or several lamps in different rooms. Three-key models also have a similar design.
Photo - one and two keyboardsThe touch model works due to an electrical circuit built into the body. Often equipped with a diode, backlight or switch off control. The box contains a special infrared indicator that detects heat human body and closes the lamp contacts. The model with indicator is often used in public places.
Photo - touch The remote control is perfect for controlling the lighting of a large house or apartment. It consists of a switch equipped with a signal receiver and a control unit. You can turn the light on and off directly from the unit or using the remote control for this purpose. Mainly used in various complexes, as well as in the Smart Home system.
Photo - remote How to connect a single-key
To work, you will need the selected switch, junction box and lamp to which the connection will be made. Directly connecting a one-button model is very simple. How to connect a single-key light switch to one light bulb:
- The phase wire of the power supply must be connected only through the contacts of the switching device, otherwise the lamp will always be energized, which is very dangerous. The phase is always connected to the break. Very often, home craftsmen install a break connection on the neutral wire, which can cause a short circuit or even a fire;
- Next, connect the wires of the wall light switch and the lighting fixture in series with the power supply. Power phase - to the switch, lamp zero to phase zero, lamp phase to switch zero.
Photo - connecting a one-key player It is more difficult to establish a connection for several lamps. There you need to take into account the phase wires of several consumers at once. Just be careful and strictly follow the announced scheme. It works as follows: when you turn on the light switch (up position), the lamp begins to receive electric current. If the key is lowered, the chain breaks and the flow of directed particles stops.
Connecting a two-key model
A standard two-button light switch is designed to control various lighting devices or multiple groups of one lamp from a single location. Most often they are used if the chandelier has more than 2 lamps (5.6). In this case, you need to know that two keys are used to control only two groups; if the lamp is divided into more of them, then you need to use a triple switch.
Photo - connecting a two-key model to a chandelier How to connect yourself two-gang switch Sveta:
- This model has three contacts - an input and two outputs. In this case, the phase from the distribution box is connected to the input contact, and the outputs are needed to control individual groups of the chandelier;
- You need to insert the phase wire of the network and its zero into the distribution box;
- First of all, all neutral conductors are connected to each other. The phase one is connected to the input of the electric light switch;
- It also has wires for each group of lamps. They are most often separated color coded. In order for each group to burn independently of the other, each must be connected to a separate phase wire. For example, yellow cable and gray: yellow is assigned to group 1, and gray to group 2;
- The neutral wire of the switch is connected to the zeros of the lamps and the network;
- All that remains is to isolate the conductors.
At the same time double switch The lights can be connected so that when one group (main) is turned off, the second (additional) is also turned off, then the circuit will be slightly different. It is necessary to switch the device not each group separately, but both at once. The triple can be connected in a similar way. The main thing is that when the keys are turned off, the phase is disconnected, not the zero.
It is also very often necessary to connect the switch to a sconce lamp and socket. This greatly saves space in the room allocated for electrical outlets. Then the diagram looks like this:
- The socket is installed parallel to the supply wires. The phase corresponds to the network phase, and the zero corresponds to zero;
- The procedure for turning on the lamp does not change; we do everything as described above.
In this way, you can install a model produced by Legrand, Viko, UAZ or any others.
How to install a gateway
Nowadays it has become very popular to install switches that allow different parts rooms disable one group. Let's look at how to properly connect pass-through light switches:
Photo - connection diagram for pass-through switch - The diagram takes into account the connection box, since without it it will be difficult to make a connection;
- You need to bring the phase neutral wire into the junction box and connect it to the lamp neutral. The central phase cable is connected to the input contact of one of the switches to choose from;
- After this, two switched contacts of one switch must be connected to similar terminals of the second;
- Now, after connecting the switches, the phase from one (to which it was previously connected) is transferred to the second. Everything is placed in a box and closed.
Photo - operating principle of the walk-through model Be sure to insulate all contacts, otherwise they will short out. Many experts recommend using soldered contacts - it is more reliable and durable than electrical tape.
A single-key switch is the simplest product designed to control home lighting.
From time to time, such products have to be repaired or replaced, so it is advisable to imagine their connection diagram and operating principle.
In our article you will find answers to your questions, a diagram and video recommendations for connecting a single-key switch.
A switch is part of a circuit that includes a source and a consumer of electricity. In this version it is 220 V network and lamp. To turn such a lamp on and off, there must be a disconnecting device between it and the network.
A switch with one button is connected in series to the phase line of the network. In principle, it can be included in the zero line, but this, firstly, will contradict PUE rules, and, secondly, it will be unsafe when servicing electrical devices.
The danger is that when installing the device in the zero line, the energy consumer nodes will be energized even when it is turned off. And when touching an electrical device, a person may find himself electrocuted.
To connect lighting lamp to a network using usually used in which switching is performed. At the same time to her fits 6 electrical lines– two supply voltage, two go to the lamp and two go to the switch.
How to choose the right one
Depending on the type of electrical wiring (or), switches of one or another type may be used in the house. They differ in their design regarding their installation on the wall. In the first case, the device is installed on a wooden plate placed on the wall surface, in the second - in a metal or plastic socket recessed into the wall.
In any case, when choosing a switch, you should pay attention to its limit characteristics. Typically, the operating voltage of a standard device is 220 V, and the operating current is 10 A.
The passport also indicates the maximum switching power (standard -2.2 kW).At the same time, the power of the consumer, for example, lighting at home, must not exceed this maximum power.
Installation and video instructions
When installing a light control system The greatest attention should be paid to:
- Correct connection of elements in the distribution box (block).
- Correct connection of the switch itself.
Connection diagram for a single-key switch to a light bulb:
To fulfill the first rule, you need to do the following operations:
- Define, suitable from the network side. To do this, you can use a probe - with a neon light bulb. If you bring the probe close to the phase, the neon light bulb will begin to glow. If the probe is brought close to zero, then there will be no glow.
- Turn off the power to the apartment.
- Connect the phase to one of the ones going to the switch.
- Connect the second cable coming from the switch to the one that approaches the central contact of the lamp base.
- Connect the wire coming from the external contact of the base to the network zero.
The connection of the stripped ends can be done in various ways:
- twisting and subsequent soldering with further insulation of this place with tape or special caps;
- screw or bolt clamps;
- using terminal blocks;
- spring clamps, for example, Wago type.
To execute the second rule, you must perform the following operations:
- Remove the device key using a screwdriver with a thin blade. It should be borne in mind that modern plastic instrument cases have a very fragile structure, so you must act carefully.
- Secure the overhead version of the device with screws on a wooden socket. Use screws to connect the conductors coming from the distribution block to the contacts.
- When wiring is hidden at first connect the wires. Then install the housing into the wall niche and secure it with special claws by tightening the fastening screws.
- Reinstall the key.
Learn from this video how to properly connect a single-key light switch:
In the next video we will tell you how to properly install a single-key switch:
In conclusion, you need to turn on the switch and check the operation of the system and its adjustment.
Let's summarize. Single-gang switches are used to control the shutdown of energy-consuming equipment, such as lighting. Such devices are connected to the phase wire in series with the lighting device.
Installation of a system for shutting off devices that use electricity is carried out using a special distribution box.The device must be selected in such a way that it the maximum electrical characteristics were equal or more such characteristics of current consumers.