Japanese indoor euonymus. Useful and pleasant-looking indoor Japanese euonymus (with photo). Varieties grown at home

also known as pseudo-laurel, Latin the name of this plant will be as follows: Euonymus japonicus. Japanese euonymus is one of the plants of the family called euonymaceae; in Latin the name of this family is Celstraceae.

Description of Japanese euonymus

For favorable cultivation of this plant, it is recommended to provide it with a sunny light regime, but partial shade is also acceptable. Throughout the entire summer period, it will be necessary to maintain moderate watering, while the degree of air humidity should remain average. The life form of Japanese euonymus is an evergreen shrub. It should be noted that all parts of this plant are poisonous, for this reason it is recommended to exercise extreme caution when handling Japanese euonymus.
This plant can often be found in cool winter gardens. Very often, gardeners grow this plant indoors: for this it is recommended to select light, but slightly shaded windows. It is noteworthy that in the summer it is permissible to grow a pot with this plant in the open air. Regarding maximum sizes in culture, the Japanese euonymus can reach a size of about one and a half meters.

Description of the features of care and cultivation of Japanese euonymus

It is noteworthy that the plant requires quite frequent replanting, which should be associated with the fact that root system Japanese euonymus will grow quite quickly. The roots themselves can grow into the drainage hole of the pot. It is recommended to replant the plant from spring to autumn. The plant will need a pot of larger diameter, but it is quite acceptable to cut off some of the roots. As for the composition of the soil mixture itself, you will need to mix sand, leaf and turf soil in equal proportions. The acidity of such soil can be either neutral or slightly acidic.
The most common pest of this plant is the spider mite; in fact, in case of infection by this pest, it is necessary to treat it with acaricides two to three times with an interval of about five to ten days. Sometimes the plant is also affected by scale insects, and to combat this pest it is necessary to use exclusively chemical treatment.
Throughout the rest period, the optimal temperature should be maintained between twenty and twenty-five degrees Celsius. This plant requires moderate watering, and air humidity can remain standard. It is noteworthy that when Japanese euonymus is grown indoors, such a period of rest will be forced. The reasons for this period will be low air humidity and insufficient lighting.
Propagation of this plant can occur through cuttings, which will require a mixture consisting of peat and sand, and the temperature should be about twenty to twenty-five degrees. Optimal time To carry out such reproduction is the spring period and the very beginning of the summer season.
As for the specific requirements of this culture, it is important to remember that Japanese euonymus needs fairly bright lighting. However, the plant should be protected from afternoon sun. It is noteworthy that the plant can also be grown as a bonsai. The crown of the Japanese euonymus should be formed by pruning and pinching; in fact, using these methods it is possible to give the plant very interesting shapes.

Japanese euonymus is an evergreen subshrub with oval, jagged, shiny and tough leathery leaves. Various varieties Euonymus can have variegated colors. Most often white-green, white-blue or yellow-green. The plant is notable for the fact that it can be grown as a container crop or in open ground.

Japanese euonymus. Landing

Japanese euonymus is not picky about where it is planted. Can grow in shade and in full sun. The most comfortable place is with a lace shadow. When shaded, the leaves turn blue-green, with pure white or yellow edges/spots. In bright sun it is green with a pinkish tint.

In dry places without regular watering, the leaves may curl and dry out.
plant Japanese euonymus V open ground possible from spring to autumn. The main thing is in cool weather and wet soil. The soil should be neutral or alkaline, nutritious, with the addition of sand.

Euonymus easily tolerates frost, but can get wet if overmoistened for a long time.

We make the distance between the bushes taking into account the size of the adult plant. It is advisable to plant in moist soil.

We make a hole 2 times larger than the root of the euonymus seedling.
We lay drainage at the bottom: broken brick, small crushed stone or expanded clay.
We add fertilizer: rotted humus or compost.
We plant shallowly. We compact the soil near the plant.
At first, water regularly.

Japanese euonymus. Outdoor care

Care consists of regular watering and timely feeding. Try not to overwater the plant; give the soil time to dry. In the spring, feed with fertilizers high in nitrogen. In summer, potassium-magnesium mixtures. In the fall, you can add lime and ash when digging.
To form a dense compact bush, pinch the ends of the branches. Without this procedure, dwarf forms of euonymus will grow in breadth, taking root with branches that come into contact with the ground. The bush will be looser.
For the winter, it is recommended to mulch the plants with peat, leaves or stale sawdust. Young euonymus (up to 2 years old) are covered. Adult plants do not need shelter for the winter.
Euonymus can be affected by mites and aphids. The leaves curl and may fall off. We treat the affected bushes with sulfur colloid or actellik.
Japanese euonymus can suffer from powdery mildew and rust. Preventative treatment with fungicides is recommended during periods of prolonged rain and cold weather.

With proper care, euonymus gives good growth and the bush grows quickly. In this case, periods of growth alternate with periods of rest. The presence of several waves of euonymus growth per season indicates proper care behind the plant.

It is also necessary to remember that the Japanese euonymus is poisonous plant. It should not be eaten. Used in folk medicine. IN official medicine does not apply.

Japanese euonymus. Reproduction

Euonymus can be propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush, root suckers and seeds.

It is better to harvest from a bush that is at least 5 years old:
in June-July we cut cuttings 6-8 cm long,
we treat the lower sections with heteroauxin or root and plant them in a greenhouse with soft fertile soil,
Sprinkle the soil with a 3-4 cm layer of sand on top,
After a month and a half, the cuttings should take root and can be planted in a permanent place.

For propagation by root suckers, early spring is best, immediately after the snow melts:

cut the root suckers with overgrown thick roots about 20-30 cm,
carefully transplant the offspring with a lump of earth to a permanent place or into a nursery/container for growth,
Long cuttings (more than 50 cm) are cut off.

Divide bushes with rhizomes better in spring. The transplanted bush is lightly pruned. Usually, when dividing a bush, there are no problems with survival.

To grow euonymus from seeds, you need:

carry out stratification at a temperature of 10-12 degrees, in the refrigerator for 3-4 months in coarse sand,
after the seed coat of most seeds bursts, they need to be cleaned and stratified at a temperature of 0-4 degrees for 2 months,
soak in a weak solution of potassium permanganate,
prepare a soil mixture: leaf soil 4 parts, humus - 2 parts, turf - 1 part, coarse sand - 1 part,
sow the prepared seeds in seedling boxes with soil to a depth of 2 cm,
They are planted in a permanent place only in the third year.

Japanese euonymus. Home care

Japanese euonymus can be grown at home in containers. Upright varieties make good bonsai. Dwarf bush evergreen forms also grow well at home.

For planting, be sure to place a drainage layer in the container. The soil mixture should consist of 3 parts turf land, 2 parts peat (non-acidic) and part sand.
In spring and on hot days of summer, Japanese euonymus is watered more abundantly. In autumn and winter, water less often. It is better to use settled water, room temperature. On dry, hot days, you can spray the bushes with a spray bottle, adding air humidity.
In summer, it is advisable to take the euonymus outdoors: to a dacha or balcony.
Once a week after watering, apply a complex fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants. Euonymus is fertilized during the growth period: in spring to autumn, during the dormant period - stop.
It is advisable to replant a young plant annually. From the 4th year, transplantation is done every 2-4 years.

At home, Japanese euonymus may need additional lighting.
This is a rather unpretentious plant. Japanese euonymus easily tolerates pruning or spring pinching of shoots. This stimulates the growth of new shoots and allows the formation of a denser crown. Regularly prune damaged leaves and shoots. You can rejuvenate the bush by pruning old shoots.
The plant needs a period of rest. In winter, the euonymus is moved indoors with temperature conditions approximately 10-15 degrees.
The main pests in the home are spider mites and thrips. Fitoverm (actofite) or actellik is used for control.

Japanese euonymus in landscape design

Japanese euonymus is great for a hedge or border. A mix of euonymus can become a separate bright composition.
Green varieties are used in the landscape as a background for compositions or flowering plants. It can be cut alive garden figurines(topiar).
In the southern regions it can take on liana-like forms.
Euonymus fortunena is a creeping evergreen subshrub. They look great on alpine slides and near brick/stone walls. Fortune's euonymus can rise, leaning against a wall or tree trunk, creating unique decorative compositions.

Japanese euonymus. Photo. Varieties

IN wildlife Japanese euonymus grows in China and Japan as a bush or tree and can reach 5-7 m.

Pseudolaurus (Euonymus japonica)

A bright evergreen bush, capable of reaching 1.5 m in height. The shoots are greenish-brown. It blooms in June, when small yellow-green inflorescences can be seen. Decorative bright seed pods; at home, fruits are rarely set. Tolerates shading and air pollution. Does not tolerate cold. May die when temperature drops below 5 degrees.

Microphyllus (Euonymus japonicus Microphyllus)

The more common name is Japanese small-leaved euonymus. A variegated bush up to 50 cm high, no more than 15 cm wide. Features: yellow-green color, branches with small leaves directed vertically upward. Blooms in late spring with white flowers. Afterwards it forms variegated decorative fruits. Can be used as hanging plant.

Dwarf (Euonymus nana)

Creeping evergreen bush up to a meter high, with easily rooted shoots. In the wild, it is found in mountainous regions from China to Europe. Leathery, bright green leaves with a bluish tint underneath. The flowers are small, red-brown in color.

The fruits and seeds are decorative, although they bloom in middle lane extremely rare.

Currently, nurseries also offer standard forms of euonymus.

Fortune (Euonymus fortunei)

A close relative of the Japanese euonymus. Homeland - China. Creeping shrub up to 40 cm high. It blooms extremely rarely in the center of Russia. Winter-hardy, looks great on alpine slides. In winter, the leaves (white edge) are colored pink tones.

Some common varieties:

Fortune's euonymus Emerald Gaiety - distinguished by leaves with a white border along the edge of the leaf, in the fall it turns pink-red tones.
Euonymus Fortune Canadale Gold - leaves are bright green with a yellow edge.
Fortune's euonymus Emerald'n Gold - spring growth yellow, gradually a bright yellow stripe appears along the edge of the leaf, by autumn it becomes pink color.
Euonymus Fortune Blondy - leaves with a white-yellow stripe in the middle of the leaf. By autumn the stripe becomes reddish.

Euonymus Fortune Sunspot (Sunspot) - with a green stripe in the middle yellow leaf.
Euonymus Fortune Harlequin (Harlequin) - with large white spots on the leaves.
Fortune's euonymus Dart's Blanket (Darts Blanket) - becomes bronze in color by autumn.
Euonymus Fortune Coloratus (Coloratus) - bright green leaves turn purple in autumn.

Euonymus is a low, graceful tree widely used in landscape design. It owes its popularity among gardeners to its stunning variety of bright colors. Dimensions do not allow most varieties of euonymus to be grown at home. modern apartments, but some varieties are an exception, quite suitable for indoor floriculture, and besides, planting and care are quite within the capabilities of an amateur. Compact breeding hybrids were developed on their basis.

Appearance and other characteristic features of euonymus

Euonymus (Euonymus), also known as “pseudo-laurel”, is a genus of short, evergreen and leafless trees belonging to the Euonymus family (Celastraceae). On at the moment About 220 of its representatives are known, found throughout the Northern Hemisphere. The first scientifically described euonymus was discovered in Spain. Some varieties grow in Australia and South America.

The official name of the plant is translated from Greek roughly as “a tree with a glorious (or good) name.” "Euonymus" is one of the many nicknames by which it is known in Slavic languages. Some of them are quite unattractive - “witch’s earrings”, “wolf’s bast”, “privet”, “blind hen”. This is probably due to the fact that the juice and seeds of the euonymus are poisonous. Eating the latter may well cause death. The substances they contain negatively affect the performance of the heart.

A beautiful legend is told about the origin of the euonymus. According to her, the tree was created by an evil witch who wanted to punish people who, in her opinion, deserved it. At the last moment, the sorceress relented, leaving the possibility of using the plant as a medicine. And she herself became a robin, to which eating the fruits of the euonymus does not bring any harm. Since then, this bird has been spreading euonymus around the world, dropping its seeds to the ground.

In nature, euonymus grows up to 3–10 m in height. At home, mainly evergreen varieties are cultivated, not exceeding 1–1.5 m. Creeping and creeping species are also very popular. Any euonymus lives for about 60 years, so it will please the gardener for a long time.

Euonymus blooms and bears fruit “in captivity” extremely rarely. Besides, it's not the most attractive sight. Natural varieties have small greenish-yellow or whitish flowers collected in inflorescences in the form of a brush or umbrella of 10–15 pieces. They are almost invisible on the tree. The flowers of selection hybrids - snow-white, pinkish, purple - are more noticeable. In nature, flowering occurs in the summer; at home, it can begin even in early spring.

Euonymus fruits look very decorative. They are often even mistaken for flowers. These four-leaf, leathery “boxes” with spines or wings change color to bright scarlet, crimson or purple when fully ripe.

The main decorative value of the plant lies in the leaves, which are about 7 cm long. They are smooth, quite dense, ovoid. The color is very beautiful - soft light green, there are types with yellowish, cream or almost white inclusions. The edge is cut with small teeth. The leaves are located oppositely on smooth or tetrahedral shoots covered with small growths.

Varieties grown at home

Of the “natural” euonymuses, the ones that have most successfully adapted to home conditions are:

Japanese (japonica). A small, intensively branching shrub, no more than 0.5–0.7 m high, densely covered with leaves. They are narrower than those of most euonymuses, shaped like a lancet or an elongated oval. The color of the leaf blade is rich green, sometimes with a lighter border or area along the central vein. The flowers are small, no more than 1 cm in diameter. The fruits are pinkish or pale orange boxes. It is demanding on soil nutrition and requires regular fertilizing. Moderate watering is important. The tree is sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and has difficulty escaping pest attacks. In extreme heat it drops its leaves.
Rooting (radicans) or Fortune (fortunei). Low (1–1.2 m), creeping evergreen with long shoots. It branches rather weakly, but the existing shoots are tightly covered with leaves. They are small (4–5 cm long), smooth and shiny. The general background is yellow or yellow-white, with a green tint. At home you can grow in hanging planters. The fruits are bright pink, the seeds are dark orange.
Dwarf (compactus). Height - no more than 1 m. Leaves are small, up to 4 cm long, leathery. The tip of the leaf sharply sharpens, the edges bend slightly downwards. The color of the leaf blade is light green, with a slight yellowish tint. The leaves below are bluish-green or olive. The trunk is practically absent, the shoots are thin. Suitable for bonsai shaping. Unlike other varieties, it is more shade-loving and demanding of watering, and more often suffers from pests. Does not tolerate heat well.
Winged (alatus). Deciduous shrub approximately 1.5–2 m high. It grows quite slowly. The ribs on the shoots look like wings, hence the name. The dark green leaves turn into bright scarlet and crimson in the fall. The fruits are deep purple. The plant is light-loving. It will survive in the shade, but will lose color saturation.

Photo gallery: euonymus found in nature

Japanese euonymus is very sensitive to excessively high temperatures. Rooting euonymus is the basis for most experiments by breeders. Dwarf euonymus is, for some reason, especially highlighted by pests. Winged euonymus is rare at home due to its size, but its growth can be restrained by regular pruning.

Video: Japanese euonymus

Selective hybrids are mainly bred on the basis of Fortune's euonymus. Their leaves are usually variegated.

Evergreen creeping shrub. It grows quite slowly. Height - about 0.5 m, width - 0.8–1 m. In autumn, the leaves turn red.
ground cover plant. In the absence of pruning, it is more suitable for greenhouses and winter gardens than for home use. Height - 0.5 m, width - 1.5 m. Leaves are about 5 cm long. In autumn, a reddish or chocolate undertone appears.
Low (0.6–0.8 m) shrub. In the center of the dark green leaf there is a large sunny yellow spot. Very picky about the presence of natural color. In the shade, the variegated coloring of the leaves quickly disappears.
An intensively branching shrub about 0.8 m high. In winter, a slight pink tint may appear.
Variegatus (Gracilis). Creeping shrub no more than 30 cm high, rapidly growing in width up to 0.8–1 m.
Rapidly spreading to the sides evergreen shrub no more than 15–20 cm high. Suffers little from cold weather. The plant is very shade tolerant.
Compact bush height and width of about 30–40 cm. Severely suffers from cold weather and sudden temperature changes.
The smallest hybrid. The leaf length is no more than 1 cm. The plant itself is no more than 5–10 cm high.

Photo gallery: breeding hybrids

The Emerald Gaiety hybrid has round, bright green leaves with a white border. Emerald Gold Euonymus has variegated leaves, green with bright yellow stripes and spots along the edges. The bright yellow spot in the center of the leaf gives the hybrid the name Sunspot. In young plants cultivar Silver Queen leaves are pale yellow, then they change color to silvery green. Euonymus Variegatus leaves are bright green, with a yellowish-white or creamy center The Vegetus hybrid has dark green leaves, the veins are highlighted in white. The Sheridan Gold euonymus has lemon-yellow leaves, then acquire a lime tint. The Minimus variety in a pot forms something similar to “pads” or a continuous carpet

Optimal microclimate for the plant

Euonymus is relatively unpretentious. He will survive in different conditions. But for the plant to look in the best possible way, it is advisable to listen to its “requirements” and create a microclimate close to the optimal one.

Table: how to create suitable conditions for euonymus

Factor	Recommendations
Location	The sill of a window facing southeast or southwest. The room must be regularly ventilated, while protecting the plant from drafts. In the summer, it is useful to send the pot to the balcony (indoor or outdoor), terrace, veranda, or garden.
Lighting	Most types of euonymus prefer bright light, without suffering even from direct sun rays. Variegated hybrids are more light-loving, but under direct rays they quickly “fade”, so it is advisable to shade them.
Temperature	The optimal temperature in summer is 22–25ºС, in winter 12–15ºС. In winter, hybrids will tolerate lower (3–5ºС), but not negative temperatures. “Natural” euonymus is not afraid of frosts down to -20ºС. If the room is too warm in winter (20ºC or more), even an evergreen euonymus will most likely lose most of its leaves.
Humidity	Euonymus grows better when high humidity(60–70%), but does not suffer much from dry air. In extreme heat, you can spray the flower or periodically give it warm shower. The last procedure is also useful for cleaning the flower from dust (once a week is enough).

Euonymuses are mostly shade-tolerant, but not shade-loving. A compact, even crown of the bush is formed only in bright light or at least in light partial shade.

How to transplant euonymus correctly?

Young euonymus are replanted annually, adults - once every 2–3 years or even less often. It depends on the growth rate and how old the soil is in the pot. The procedure is carried out in early spring. For large specimens grown in tubs, which cannot be replanted purely physically, the top 5–7 cm of soil is removed and replaced with fresh substrate.

The size of the pot is selected so that it is 3–5 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. For slow-growing varieties, the old pot is suitable if it is sterilized and the soil is completely changed. To limit the growth of euonymus, especially in height, a container almost identical in diameter to the previous one, rather flat than deep, is suitable.

Euonymus needs slightly alkaline soil, so dolomite flour or crushed chalk (5 g per 10 l) is added to ready-made store-bought soil for decorative leafy houseplants or to a substrate mixed independently.

Dolomite flour is a useful additive for neutralizing excessive soil acidity

The soil should be light, nutritious, air and water permeable:

Euonymus transplant:

Place expanded clay or other drainage material at the bottom of the pot in a layer of about 1–1.5 cm.
Fill about a third of the container with fresh substrate. Water the soil thoroughly. When the water is absorbed, make a depression in it.
Remove the plant from the pot, keeping the soil ball intact if possible. You can make the process easier by watering the plant well about half an hour before.
Transfer the flower to new pot. Fill the voids around the edges with soil. Gently compact the soil and water the flower well again.

Since the euonymus is quite unpretentious, it does not need special care after transplantation. The flower can be immediately returned to its original place. A plant purchased in a store is replanted as quickly as possible - the heavy universal substrate does not allow water to pass through well, provoking the development of rot.

Video: how to transplant euonymus

Important nuances of plant care

Caring for euonymus is simple. Even a novice florist can handle it.

Watering

Euonymus is not a very moisture-loving plant; moderate watering is sufficient. Naturally, in hot weather the flower needs to be watered more often than in cloudy weather. Do not let the soil dry out completely. You can check this with a wooden stick stuck into the ground. Usually it is enough to water the plant a little once every 3-4 days.

A flower, like almost everything indoor plants, responds gratefully to spraying. A weekly warm shower is also helpful. In addition to the fact that it washes away dust, it is an effective prevention against many pests.

Spray the flower only with soft clean water. Otherwise, unsightly whitish spots will appear on the leaves. It is advisable to use the same water, heated to room temperature, for irrigation.

Euonymus tolerates drought much better than waterlogged soil. Regular abundant watering- one of the few reliable ways destroy the plant.

Fertilizer application

The plant does not need abundant feeding. If the soil is selected correctly, it is enough to water it once a month from March to October with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer for decorative foliage indoor plants.

Euonymus can be fed with complex mineral and organic fertilizers.

You can also enter organic fertilizers. An infusion of fresh cow manure or bird droppings, nettle greens, and dandelion leaves is quite suitable. Rest period

The most important thing is to keep the euonymus cool enough from mid-autumn to the end of winter so that it does not lose its leaves. Place the flower on a glassed-in loggia, in an unheated greenhouse. At this time, the plant is watered more moderately than usual (once every 6–8 days), and feeding is stopped completely. The requirements for the lighting regime do not change. Since the sun is less active in winter, you can move the pot closer to south-facing windows.

Trimming

Initially, euonymus is a shrub or even a small tree. Therefore, it needs at least regular sanitary pruning. All weak, dried out shoots damaged by diseases and pests are removed from the plant. This stimulates the formation of new branches and more intensive branching.

It is also possible decorative pruning. The crown of the euonymus can be shaped into a ball, pyramid, cone, or even create something more original, reminiscent of garden sculptures. For greater lushness and “bushiness”, it is enough to simply pinch the shoots at the top 2-3 buds each in the spring.

Since euonymus sap is poisonous, any pruning should be done only with rubber gloves. To minimize damage to the plant, use only sharp, disinfected tools.

Video: how to care for a plant

How does a flower react to the grower’s mistakes?

The main decorative value of euonymus is its leaves. They are the reliable “indicator” of the plant’s condition. The plant reacts to any errors in care with deterioration. appearance.

Table: how errors in caring for euonymus manifest themselves

What does the plant look like?	What is the reason?
The leaves become dull, the variegated color disappears, and the tips dry out.	The room is too dry or there is insufficient watering. Other possible reason- prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.
The plant sheds its leaves.	If this occurs during the active growing season, is associated with an almost complete stop of growth and affects only the lower leaves, the flower is watered too often and/or abundantly. IN winter time"guilty" too much high temperature and low air humidity.
The leaves blur brown spots, the bases of the petioles and shoots turn black.	Rot develops due to regular waterlogging of the soil, aggravating the situation low temperature indoors.
The leaves turn yellow, gradually dry out and fall off.	The plant doesn't have enough nutrients. Or the fertilizer used is not suitable for it.

Common diseases and pests

Euonymus is quite resistant to most fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. The exception is rot. But it is often attacked by sucking insects, which are attracted by dense succulent leaves. But there are simple preventive measures, the observance of which will minimize the risk of infection:

Place newly purchased indoor plants in quarantine for at least 10–12 days.
Avoid crowding of flowers on the windowsill and place bouquets (especially roses and chrysanthemums as far away from them as possible).
Regular inspection (preferably with a magnifying glass) for the presence of characteristic features and damage.
Immediate isolation of flowers at the slightest suspicion of infection, disinfection of the corresponding area of the window sill.
Minimization of damage during pruning, replanting, immediate processing of all cuts
Using only clean, sharpened tools, sterile soil and pots.
Maintain air humidity at a level comfortable for the flower, regularly ventilate the room.
Weekly warm shower.
Proper care, especially watering.

Table: what diseases or pests does euonymus suffer from?

Disease or pest	External manifestations	Control measures
Gray rot	Gray-brown spots on shoots and leaves, covered with a layer of ashen “lint” with small black inclusions.	Trimming all at least minimally damaged parts of the plant and immediately replanting them in a new pot and soil; treating the soil before planting with Trichodermin, Glyokladin or adding Barrier or Barrier granules; weekly watering with a 1% solution of any fungicide; spraying and watering with Fundazol, Topsin-M, Alirin-B, Baikal-EM.
Spider mite	Thin cobwebs on the bases of shoots and petioles; leaves covered with black dots and yellowish-white thin stripes.	Apply a soap-alcohol solution to the leaves and shower after 40–45 minutes; water abundantly and place the plant in a tightly tied plastic bag for 2–3 days; spraying and watering with acaricide solution - Vermitek, Neoron, Apollo, Marshall, Agravertin, Floromite, Oberon (2-3 treatments with different preparations every 7-12 days).
Mealybug	Small lumps, similar to dirty cotton wool, at the petioles and bases of shoots; soil extending from the edges of the pot and a border of whitish wax-like substance underneath it.	Destruction visible traces with a cotton pad soaked in alcohol or any alcohol tincture and shower after 15–20 minutes; applying onion and garlic paste to pest accumulation areas, essential oil any citrus fruits; treatment with Tanrek, Confidor, Biotlin, Aktara, Actellik, Mospilan, Rogor, Phosfamide.
Aphid	Tops of shoots and young leaves covered with small yellow-green or brown-black insects; multiple small beige dots on them.	Pruning the most severely affected parts of the plant; spraying 2-3 times a day with infusions of any sharp-smelling herbs, pine needles, orange peel, tobacco crumbs; spraying foam with green potassium soap; use of Aktara, Mospilan, Inta-Vira, Calypso, Confidor, Fitoverm, Fury.
Oval dull brown or gray-brown growths on the leaves; yellow-red fabrics around them; almost black substrate in a pot.	Destruction of visible individuals ( cotton swab apply alcohol, kerosene, vinegar, turpentine to the shell, wait 2-3 hours); washing the leaves with a soap-alcohol solution; use of Actellik, Fosbecid, Metaphos, Aktara.

What diseases and pests will a gardener growing euonymus have to fight - photo

Aphids are one of the most common pests of indoor plants; euonymus will not be ignored either. The durable shell of the scale insect protects it from most folk remedies

Methods for propagating euonymus

Rooting cuttings

Rooting cuttings is the most common method vegetative propagation Euonymus. During the replanting process, you can also divide a large bush into 2-3 smaller ones or transplant the “offshoots” that appear at the roots into separate containers. Best time for rooting cuttings - late spring or early summer.

Cut a few healthy, young, non-woody shoots from the plant. Cut cuttings from them 5–8 cm long so that each has at least one internode. Make all cuts with a sharp, clean knife and sprinkle with crushed chalk, activated carbon, colloidal sulfur, or at least cinnamon.
Fill small cups with fertile soil, pouring a 5–7 cm thick layer of coarse sand on top.
Plant the cuttings in the ground, sprinkling the lower cut with any powdered root formation stimulator.
Place the containers in transparent plastic bags and tie them. Or cover with glass jars.
Provide bright light, a temperature of about 22ºC, and moderate watering as the soil dries. If you alternate water and biostimulator solution and turn on the bottom heating, the rooting process will go faster. In less comfortable conditions roots will appear in 1.5–2 months.
Wait the same amount of time and transplant the cuttings into soil for adult plants. After 2-3 months, pinch the plants to make the bushes more luxuriant.

Video: propagation of indoor plants by apical cuttings

Germination of seeds

Growing euonymus from seeds is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming procedure. It is not recommended to propagate selection hybrids in this way - seedlings rarely retain the variegated coloring of leaves.

Before planting, euonymus seeds must be stratified.

Planting process:

Clean the seeds from their buds and immerse them in a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per liter of water) for 2–3 hours.
Mix the dried seeds with coarse river sand or peat chips, calcined in the oven. They take approximately twice as much substrate as seeds.
Keep them for 3–4 months at a temperature of 10–12ºС in a bright place with air humidity of 50–60% and good ventilation. When the shell of most of the seeds cracks, put them in the refrigerator or other place where a constant temperature of 1–3ºC is maintained for 4–5 months.
After the specified time has passed, allow the seeds to warm up to room temperature, covering the container with glass to prevent moisture from evaporating. It is advisable to choose a brightly lit place for them.
Mix soil suitable for mature plants and fill shallow, flat containers with it. Distribute the seeds over the surface and sprinkle with a thin layer of sand. Moisten well with a spray bottle.
Cover the containers with glass or film, or put them in a mini-greenhouse. Provide bright light, temperature 24–27ºС, bottom heating. Once every 3-4 days, ventilate the greenhouse and moisten the soil. Individual shoots appear after 6–8 weeks, mass shoots after 3–4 months.
After the first true leaf appears, plant the seedlings in separate containers and care for them as usual.

Euonymus is an unusual, rather unpretentious decorative foliage indoor plant. Even a novice gardener can cope with its cultivation. Of course, in the open ground the shrub looks more impressive, but even in a pot its bright variegated greenery looks decent, delighting the owner all year round.

Ornamental shrubs are becoming increasingly popular today. They can be grown in open ground or indoors. One of these shrubs is Japanese euonymus. In its natural environment, this plant forms dense, impenetrable thickets, in which wolves often make their home. For this, the euonymus received the name privet or wolf's bast.

Japanese euonymus is an evergreen subshrub. The leaves of the plant are dense, their color can be varied and depends on the variety: the leaves can be solid bright green, or they can have white or yellowish stains. In the shade the foliage turns blue-green, and in bright sun it turns pinkish-green.

At home, euonymus grows up to 1 meter in height. The plant begins to bloom in June - July, and in winter it begins a dormant period.

The inflorescences of the euonymus are lush and shaped like umbrellas. Each consists of small flowers various colors - white, red, greenish-yellow. In early autumn, the plant produces capsule fruits.

These fruits are dangerous to human health and life. Eating them even in small quantities causes stomach upset, rapid heartbeat and weakness. Eating more than 30-35 fruits can result in death. If small children or animals live in the house, it is better to move the plant higher.

To avoid misunderstandings, it is better to buy seedlings in specialized nurseries or stores.

It is better to choose a plant with closed roots. In this case, the gardener will have the opportunity to let the plant adapt to new conditions and not rush into replanting. If the seedling has open roots, it must be immediately placed in the ground.

Buying planting material, you need to inspect it and evaluate the quality. Leaves should have a fresh, healthy appearance. There should be no damage, dry areas or rot on the shoot and roots. You need to approach the selection of euonymus seedlings responsibly. Otherwise, there is a risk of buying low-quality material or even another plant that looks similar to Japanese euonymus.

This crop is not too picky about the planting site, so you can grow it in an open, illuminated area or in the shade. However, the plant will feel best in places with “lace” shadow.

The soil in the area where the euonymus grows needs to be moistened regularly. In drought conditions, the leaves will begin to dry out and curl. However, if there is excess moisture, the roots will become wet and the plant will die. It is advisable to choose neutral or alkaline soil mixed with sand.

You can plant shrubs in open ground throughout the warm season. Mandatory requirement- cool weather and well-moistened soil.

The sequence of actions when planting in open ground is as follows:

A hole is made in the soil, the diameter of which is twice larger size seedling roots.
A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pit. This could be pebbles, broken bricks or expanded clay.
Humus or compost is placed on top of the drainage layer.
A bush is planted in the hole at a shallow depth. The soil near the root becomes slightly compacted.

In the first days, the plant needs regular watering.

You can start it at home dwarf shrub or grow bonsai. If we talk about a plant like Japanese euonymus, home care will not cause much difficulty:

Until about 4 years old, the shrub needs to be replanted annually in a new pot. For older shrubs, one transplant per day is enough. 2−3 years.

To rejuvenate the bush and form a crown, it needs to be regularly pruned and pinched. It is best to prune the plant in the spring, this will speed up its growth. When the tip of the shoot is pruned, several young branches grow from this point. Be sure to remove damaged leaves and shoots, as well as old branches. The crown can be given a wide variety of shapes - spherical, conical, etc. To make a tree, cut side shoots and release bottom part trunk To receive dense crown beautiful shape pinch the tops of the shoots.

This ornamental shrub can be grown not only in a house or apartment. You can use it to create a border or hedge, or you can combine several varieties of this shrub and create a beautiful landscape composition.

Euonymus varieties with green, monochromatic foliage are used as a background for brighter plants. In addition, you can cut garden figurines from grown trees. Creeping varieties will help decorate alpine coaster and areas near stone walls.

Caring for euonymus garden plot consists of timely watering and fertilizing. It is very important to ensure that the soil does not dry out, but at the same time not to allow moisture to stagnate in the roots.

In the spring, nitrogen-rich fertilizer is applied to the soil. In summer, you can fertilize the soil with mineral mixtures with potassium and magnesium. In the fall, it will be useful to feed the shrubs with lime or ash; this is done before digging.

To prevent euonymus bushes from growing wider and remaining compact, carefully pinch the tips of the shoots. If this is not done, the bushes will take root with branches located close to the ground. As a result, the plant will look loose and shapeless.

Young plants are covered for the winter; mature shrubs do not need this. You can mulch the soil for the winter using peat, leaves or old sawdust.

If the shrub is properly cared for, it grows quickly and intensively. During the season, several waves of growth can be observed, followed by periods of dormancy.

Propagation using cuttings

It is best to propagate Japanese indoor euonymus using cuttings. Shoots are cut from a bush about 5 years old. The size of the cutting should be approximately 10 cm. The substrate for planting is prepared from a mixture of sand and peat in equal quantities.

In order for the cutting to take root better, it is briefly dipped into the rooting solution.

At home, the cuttings are planted in a container for seedlings and covered with film on top. In this box the seedlings grow for two months. During this time, the cuttings will take root and can be transplanted into separate pots.

Most often, indoor plants are susceptible to infection. spider mite, mealybugs, aphids and scale insects. Signs of infection are changes in the appearance of the bushes:

The appearance of brown or yellowish spots on leaves and stems.
Changing the shape of sheet plates.
Curling and falling leaves.
When attacked by a mealybug, white tubercles remain on the leaves.
Spider mites form a thin web on a bush.

You can remove aphids or scale insects from a bush using a sponge and soap solution. Then the plant is treated with Biotlin. At the end of the treatment, the plant is rinsed in the shower.

The mealybug is removed from the plant manually, after which it can be treated with Fitoverm or Confilor.

A common disease of indoor euonymus is root rot. External manifestations of this disease may be limp and soft stems or leaves. To save the plant, it is necessary to completely replace the soil, remove damaged areas of the roots, and sprinkle the cut areas with crushed coal. The container and drainage should also be treated for preventive purposes.

Another common fungal disease is shoot rot. To get rid of the scourge, you need to cut off the diseased shoots and treat the wounds with crushed charcoal, as well as a fungicidal agent. If the plant is completely damaged, it will not be possible to save it. In this case, the bush is completely destroyed so as not to infect neighboring plants. Powdery mildew looks like a whitish coating on the surface of leaves and stems. The provoking factor of the disease is high humidity or stale air. The drug Fitosporin-M will help to cope with the problem.