Gloxinia is an amazing plant that gardeners successfully grow at home. It attracts those around it with incredibly beautiful flowers that have won many hearts and delight the eye throughout the summer. But to ensure that your pet never disappoints you, you should take proper care of it.
Gloxinia indoors: will it bloom or not?
The bell-shaped flowers of Gloxinia instantly captivate those around them.
Because of this similarity, gloxinia got its name: Gloken translated from German language means "bells".
Their coloration is characterized by a variety of colors: pink, red, burgundy and purple bells are found, but most often white. In addition, they can be either terry or non-terry; multi-colored, as well as with a colored border around the edge. The scent of the flower depends on the type of plant. There are varieties without aroma, and there are fragrant with a wonderful smell.
At proper care up to a dozen buds can form on the peduncle
One of the main advantages of this plant is its cap flowering. Probably every gloxinia grower strives to get exactly this. But for gloxinia to bloom like this, you need to try to collect as many buds as possible.
When gloxinia is propagated using leaves, it takes 4 months to see the plant bloom.
Remember that the number of collected peduncles and opened bells on gloxinia depends directly on the care:
- the plant requires bright and diffused lighting with a long daylight hours - 12–14 hours;
- loose nutritious soil and regular fertilizing. They are applied according to the periods of plant development: during the growth of green mass - some, during the formation of buds - others, and in gardening stores you can purchase universal fertilizers for indoor plants, suitable for any stage of the plant’s life. So, during the growth of green mass, gloxinia is fed with aqueous solutions of mineral fertilizers. In April they are alternated with phosphorus, which promotes the formation of buds. It is at this time that the plant begins to form flower stalks and prepares for flowering. Do not overdo it with phosphorus: it is added once a month.
The flowering period of gloxinia can be extended by stimulating it to re-bloom, which is usually not so abundant. To achieve re-blooming, first carefully examine the plant and find the growing point.
If after the first flowering gloxinia has a visible growth point, then soon it will delight you with the appearance of its luxurious bells for the second time. If the plant does not have a growing point:
- Cut off almost all the leaves, first leaving 2-4 lower leaves.
- After some time, shoots will appear in the axils of the gloxinia. Leave one or two of the strongest ones and pinch off the weak ones.
- After this, feed the gloxinia with nitrogen fertilizer to accelerate the growth of green mass.
- When the plant begins to form buds, use phosphorus fertilizer to stimulate flowering.
It is also possible that gloxinia blooms throughout the summer and does not have enough strength for another flowering: in this case, there is no need to prune it, it will prepare itself for the winter.
Preparing for winter
In autumn, after secondary flowering, gloxinia prepares for a period of rest, necessary to gain strength for future flowering. Gloxinia leaves gradually fade. What to do in this case?
If gloxinia continues to bloom in November, allow the plant to bloom and then reduce watering.
At this time, gloxinia should not be fed. The only thing that is practiced: to prepare for the dormant period, you can fertilize the plants once with potassium fertilizer (for example, potassium monophosphate). When the leaves completely wither, stop watering completely.
To prepare the plant for wintering, cut off its yellowed and wilted foliage, leaving a stump of 1–2 cm
Do not immediately cut off the entire above-ground part of the gloxinia: for successful wintering and subsequent awakening of the plant nutrients it is necessary to gradually move from the leaves and stem to the tuber.
There are two ways to store gloxinia tubers in winter:
- in a pot with substrate;
- in a plastic bag (dug up tuber).
Let's get to know them in more detail.
Wintering in the ground
If your plant remains in the pot for the winter:
- Cover the container with tubers (you can sprinkle it with sand) with a tray and pack it in a plastic bag (no need to tie the bag).
- Hide gloxinia in a cool place with a temperature of at least 10 o C.
There is a drawback to such storage: you need to make sure that the tubers do not dry out and the plant does not wake up ahead of time.
If your gloxinia remains in the ground for the winter, moisten the soil once a month so that the tuber does not dry out
Storing a dug up tuber
Some gardeners dig up gloxinia tubers for a period winter storage from the pot and put into a bag. This storage method is good because the tubers do not wake up prematurely.
To “put them to bed” correctly, you need to:
- In the fall, remove the tubers from the pot and place them in a plastic bag.
- Inside the bag, add vermiculite mixed with moistened soil or sawdust. Put it in the refrigerator for 2-3 months in the vegetable storage compartment, where the temperature is maintained at about 12 o C. In January, remove the tubers and place them in a warm and bright place so that they awaken.
Write on the labels of the bags the gloxinia variety and the date the tuber was laid for winter, because waking up early can negatively affect flowering
Video: preparing gloxinia for winter
"Restless" wintering
If gloxinia is not put to sleep for the winter, its stem will stretch out and become ugly, and this will also affect the flowering: the tuber still needs rest. But young plants grown from seeds do not have a dormant period: otherwise the small tuber may die over the winter.
When keeping gloxinias that are not dormant in winter, they need additional lighting
Care after the rest period
In January, after wintering, when the first shoots hatch, gloxinia tubers are planted in new, more nutritious soil. To replant a tuber:
- Carefully remove it from the ground and cut off the bad roots (rotten areas are also cut off with a knife, sprinkling the cuts with charcoal or ash).
- Before planting, for disinfection, the tubers are dipped in a weak solution of manganese for half an hour, dried for about a day and planted in the ground, covered with film until the first leaves appear from the ground.
- The greenhouse is periodically ventilated by removing the film in the morning and evening for one hour.
- After the first pair of leaves appears, the film can be removed, and soil must be added to the pot to completely cover the tuber with soil without burying the sprouts.
It may also be that gloxinia wakes up too early and the first leaves appear from the ground prematurely. In this case, if the tuber is large and strong, then it is better to remove the early leaf so that the plant does not stretch in the future.
Don’t worry: when you remove the first shoots, new ones will grow in their place after a while
Doesn't bloom: 9 “whys”
It happens that even after a good winter rest, gloxinia does not bloom. As a rule, the main reasons for the lack of flowers in gloxinia are:
- Improper care and storage.
- Old tuber. In order for gloxinia to bloom, it is necessary to increase watering. Water even slightly dry soil.
- Infection or overfeeding of the tuber: the plant loses strength, which in the future is simply not enough for flowering.
- Contaminated soil. When the soil is infested with pests, transplantation into another soil, pre-treated with boiling water, is necessary.
- Lack of light at elevated air temperatures: Gloxinia's stems become elongated, the flowering period begins much later or is completely absent.
- Improper use of fertilizer. The plant will react to an excess or lack of fertilizer with yellowing foliage and poor flowering. To avoid this, apply fertilizer strictly according to the instructions on the package.
- Draft. In the cold and in a draft, gloxinia flowers curl. The favorable air temperature for it is 18–20 o C. Move the flower pot to a warmer place without drafts.
- Insufficient air humidity. Dry indoor air leads to delayed flowering. Humidify the air by placing a glass of water next to the gloxinia.
- Incorrect selection of container. Ideally, you need a low and wide pot. IN big pot the plant spends energy on tuber growth rather than flowering. Ideal proportions for pots: diameter - 12 cm, height - 10 cm.
With proper care, a gloxinia tuber can live for about ten years, delighting others with luxurious velvet bells. The more powerful the tuber, the more flower stalks are formed on it, therefore, with special attention approach his choice. And one more tip: to prolong the flowering of gloxinia, remove faded inflorescences in time. And remember, in order for this plant to grow and bloom easily in your home, you need to put in a little effort.
If the first flowering was not too late, the plant may produce a second wave of bud development. The total flowering time is six to seven months with a short break. The flower lasts seven to ten days. The second flowering is less abundant than the first.
When will the one grown from the leaf bloom?
You can see the flowering of gloxinia grown from a leaf in about four months. How long does it take for a tuber to form? If the leaf is rooted in the spring, flowers will appear in the fall. Flowering will be modest and short. If the plant overwinters properly, next spring it will appear in all its glory.
We talked about how to grow gloxinia from a leaf.
How to make buds release?
Buds on gloxinia appear only when.
What to feed?
How much light and heat do you need at home to grow?
- After planting the tuber, create a greenhouse effect by covering it at night glass jar.
- When leaves appear, remove the greenhouse. Place the gloxinia in the brightest place. The stem will be shorter, many buds will form, and the flowers will be bright. You can organize additional lighting - turn on special lamps for 10 - 12 hours. Maintain temperature from +23 to +25°C.
- When buds appear, move the pot with the plant to a less lit and cooler place with an air temperature of +18 to +20°C. Do not allow direct contact with gloxinia sun rays. Increase air humidity, but not by spraying. Place the pot on a tray with wet expanded clay or moss. Protect the plant from drafts.
When and how to go on vacation?
- In September - October, gradually reduce watering.
- When the leaves begin to turn yellow or dry out, completely stop moistening the soil.
- After the above-ground part of the plant dies, store the tuber at rest for three to four months.
Storage methods:
- Place the pot with the tuber in a cool place with a temperature of +10 to +15°C. Make sure that the tuber does not dry out completely and does not become too wrinkled. Lightly moisten the soil several times during the dormant period.
- Two weeks after the aerial part has completely died, dig up the tuber. Clear away any remaining roots. Place in slightly damp sawdust or sand. Keep in a cool place. The middle or bottom shelf of the refrigerator door will do. Remove and inspect the tuber monthly. If the substrate is completely dry, moisten it a little and return the tuber to it. Do not over-wet the soil.
Video about the dormant period of gloxinia and storage of tubers:
How to cause reappearance?
In May or June, after the first flowering, carefully examine the gloxinia. If there is a growing point, after a while the plant will again produce buds. If there is no growth point, pruning will help:
- Cut off the above-ground part, leaving a shoot two centimeters high from the soil surface and two to four lower leaves.
- When will they start to grow side shoots, pinch off the weak ones and leave one or two of the strongest ones.
- Apply nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate the growth of stems and leaves.
- After a month, the process of bud formation begins. Replace nitrogen fertilizers with a phosphorus-potassium complex.
If the plant continues to bloom until the end of summer, there is no need to prune it. Gloxinia may not have the strength for a second flowering. It's better to let her do it on her own.
Home care
Mistakes made when maintaining the plant significantly reduce the quality and duration of flowering.
How often to water?
Intensive watering is required during the flowering period. The soil is moistened when the top layer dries. For watering, you need soft filtered water or water that has stood for a couple of days. Its temperature should be two to three degrees higher than the air temperature in the room.
Water through a tray. This way, water does not get on the tuber, leaves and buds. After some time, be sure to drain off excess moisture. In the second half of August, the frequency of watering is gradually reduced. - a process that requires a lot of attention and effort. At each stage of development it is necessary to create for the plant optimal conditions content. If everything is done correctly, gloxinia will bloom profusely all summer with a short break.
If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.
GROWING ERRORS
THE LEAVES HAVE BECOME SLIPPY
Leaves on gloxinia may wither for the following reasons:
1. Tuber disease. A tuber may look healthy and not rotten on the outside, but the inside of the tuber may be dark, rotten, rotten, etc. Therefore, the leaves may wither.
2. The plant is not watered. If the tuber is healthy, and the plant has lost turgor due to watering at the wrong time, then you can water the plant and place it under a transparent plastic bag.
3. Over-drying and overwatering - uneven, improper watering. Most often, such problems occur due to improper watering. Either the plant is flooded, then the soil is dried out, and then watered abundantly. When the soil dries out, very thin roots die, and then after abundant watering the tuber begins to rot and the leaves become limp.
4. Damage to the tuber or roots. If the leaves on gloxinia become limp, this may be due to rotting of the tuber. A tuber can begin to rot not only due to overdrying and excessive watering, but also if, when planting the tuber, it was pressed into the ground and the tuber and/or roots were damaged.
5. It's hot. Gloxinia leaves may lose turgor due to hot air. As soon as the air temperature drops, turgor will be restored.
6. Cold and frost. Due to the cold, the leaves on gloxinia may become limp.
If the leaves on gloxinia become limp, then you need to immediately check the tuber.
GLOXINIA DOESN'T GROW
If there is not enough light or in too hot and dry conditions, gloxinia may stop growing.
You can replant the plants in fresh nutrient soil and place them in a bright place, but not in direct sunlight (it is advisable to shade them from the sun with tulle). If the plants are healthy, then they will definitely do a good job: they will grow and bloom.
If it is very hot and dry, you can try placing non-growing plants in greenhouses. For example, under a plastic bag. Just be careful with watering.
Yes, some varieties grow slower than others. For example, my Parure is growing slowly and slowly this year.
The secret to the fast or slow growth of young gloxinias lies in the lighting, nutritional value and quality of the soil, the characteristics of the variety and the health of the nodule. Perhaps in combination of these features.
If one gloxinia grows more quickly, the other grows more slowly, then this is normal. Over time, the lagging ones can still overtake the larger ones and bloom earlier. Anything can happen.
THE STALK IS EXTENDED - REASONS
1. Feature of the variety. It may be a matter of varieties. There are varieties of gloxinia that are predisposed to elongation of the stem. Of course, Avanti will always be more compact than Hollywood and Kaiser Wilhelm.
2. High temperature. When it is too hot and stuffy, some gloxinias stretch out their peduncles and stems, and especially when there is not enough light.
3. Lighting. There may be only a few cloudy days during the period of active growth of gloxinia, during which the stem of gloxinia begins to stretch. Even on the south window. Gloxinia is a light-loving plant.
1. B The survey is like this: what to do with the long shoots of gloxinia that have grown back? To me in early spring They gave 2 shoots, they took root well and grew. They stand on a south window with blinds during the daytime. I waited for the leaves on them to begin to dry out. But instead, they began to grow. Now it's about 20-25 cm.
But if they don’t have a rest period this year, will they stretch out even more over the winter?
Or maybe they will bloom for me this year?
It’s already the end of summer, if you definitely want to see your gloxinias bloom this year, then you don’t need to trim the tops. Perhaps they will bloom again. Tie long stems to a support so that the plants have stability and do not fall. The support can be bamboo skewers inserted sharp end in an earthen lump next to the plant. Just do this carefully so as not to damage the gloxinia tubers.
You can remove a few leaves and put them on rooting to ensure that the gloxinia is preserved.
2. Please help me with advice: I sowed the seeds and once planted the plants in small-diameter pots. I placed them on the south window, but because of the heat they felt very bad, so I sent them to the windowsill of the west window. I fed it several times with “Zdravnem”, but now my gloxinias have become very elongated, it is necessary to replant them, but I don’t know what to do with them to bring them into proper shape.
If gloxinia has stretched out, then this cannot be corrected. I would advise you to move the plants to a brighter place so that they do not drag. But it will be necessary to shade it with tulle from direct sunlight.
If the plants have become very elongated, you can cut off the tops and root them. Plants that grow from the tops will not be elongated if there is sufficient lighting.
It’s already the month of June, that is, it’s not spring, so I wouldn’t cut off the tops, but give the elongated plants the opportunity to grow and bloom. This way you could see them bloom this year.
And next year, having experience and having found the optimal lighting location for your plants this year, you will no longer give your gloxinias the opportunity to stretch out.
ABOUT RE-FLOWERING
Help me please! Gloxinia has been living with me for two years. I woke up normally, it bloomed, there were 4 flowers, they bloomed and that’s it. The bush is normal, green, apparently healthy, but has not bloomed for 2 months. I'm probably doing something wrong. Please tell me.
After the first flowering, it was necessary to trim the stem, leaving only the lower pair of leaves. Young shoots would begin to grow from the axils of the left leaves (or directly from the nodule), which would bloom in two to three months. Then your gloxinia would have not one flowering per year, but two.
ON THE PLANT - LEAVES UP
Gloxinia raises its leaves upward for the following reasons:
1. Lack of lighting: short daylight hours or weak
light intensity. But with a lack of light, the stem also stretches.2. If plants touch each other with leaves and prevent one from growing
to another. The distance between gloxinias should be such that the plants do not touch each other with their leaves.3. This is also very possible when it is very hot and there is insufficient lighting.
4. Varietal feature- Some tigrinas have a predisposition to raise their leaves upward.
LEAVES CURL
1. Gloxinia leaves curl from dry air and the tips dry out. Both small and large leaves curl.
2. Leaves curl from cold air. All my gloxinias grow in the same soil. In the month of May, part of the plants stood on a rack, and the second part was on the balcony. It was much colder on the balcony than in the apartment where the shelving unit was located, and the leaves of the plants standing on the balcony were curling. I had to cut them all off. Now it has become much warmer on the balcony, and all the leaves are growing evenly.
3. From overflowing, the leaves curl and hug the pot.
4. The leaves curl and grow huge due to overfeeding with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. Also -
when the central vein outstrips the leaf plate in growth.5. If there are pests on the plant. It is necessary to inspect the leaves, identify and destroy pests.
A LOT OF BUDS, BUT THE PLANT DOESN'T BLOWER
We have to wait. Your gloxinia is preparing for abundant flowering.
Don't cut off the buds. If there are “extra” ones, then gloxinia will dry them out itself.
Feed gloxinia with fertilizer for flowering plants once a week.
FLOWERS OPEN POORLY
1. Feature of the variety. Some varieties, for example, Voronezh Beads, do not open flowers well.
2. Temperature difference. When there is a strong difference in temperature and humidity at night and during the day, the flower petals stick together, so the flowers do not open well.
3. Lack of lighting. With insufficient lighting, flowers do not open well.
4. Lack of nutrition. If there is a lack of nutrition, gloxinia may become ill
flowers open.5. Drafts.
6. Dry air.
7. Cold and cold air.
8. Hot air. Especially on south windows.
9. Uneven watering: sometimes flooded, sometimes dry.
LONG STUDES
Long peduncles may be a feature of the variety or a manifestation of agricultural technology errors.
1. There are varieties that have long peduncles.
2. If there is insufficient lighting, the peduncles and stem of gloxinia may become elongated.
3. In hot conditions at high air temperatures, peduncles and stems may stretch.
From a botanical point of view, Gloxinia Sinningia, the taxonomy of Gesneriaceae has changed, but among flower growers, their favorite flowers are still called Gloxinia, Gloxinia and Gloxinia. Therefore, in order not to create confusion, we will keep the outdated name, but remember that its name is Sinningia the Beautiful - a popular indoor plant, unpretentious, blooming profusely.
Place for gloxinia
Gloxinia is photophilous, but it is better not to place it in direct sun, especially in the flowering phase, the flowers quickly fade and the flowering duration is greatly reduced.
In the spring, when the sun is not yet too hot, it will feel good on a southern window, but with the onset of June-July (depending on the climate zone), the plant will need to be moved to eastern or even western windows, or shaded from direct sunlight.
I do this: until the gloxinia grows and lays buds, it is in the brightest place, and when the first flowers bloom, I put it in a less lit and cooler place.
Gloxinia is a long-day plant; for normal growth and development it needs 12-14 hours of lighting of at least 5000 lux. With insufficient lighting, especially during the period of early growth, the plants become very elongated, which subsequently negatively affects the number of buds laid. There will be few of them, or maybe none at all. After the tuber has rooted and the leaves appear, the lighting should be as bright as possible, then the plant stem will be shorter, there will be a lot of buds and gloxinia will delight you abundant flowering. The intensity of the color of future flowers also depends on the illumination; in bright light, the flowers have a rich color, and in low light the color is noticeably paler.
Gloxinia line "Brocade"
Gloxinia line "Brocade"
Gloxinia line "Brocade"
Soil for gloxinia
You can use a mixture of leaf, peat soil and sand (1:1:0.5), but the composition may be different, the main condition is that the soil is loose and breathable. Acidity pH 5.5 - 6.5; gloxinia grows poorly on more acidic soils and for this reason pure, non-deoxidized peat is not suitable for it.
Before planting the plant, I strongly recommend disinfecting the soil. Now I use the drug Maxim (1 ampoule per 2 liters of water).
Wide and shallow dishes are more suitable for growing gloxinia. For young tubers, pots with a diameter of 7-10 cm are suitable, and for larger and older ones 11-15 cm. Pots can be either plastic or clay.
Planting a tuber
In February - March, less often January (it all depends on the storage temperature) the tuber begins to germinate. If it was stored in a pot with old soil, you need to take it out and clean it of the remnants of last year’s roots and soil. Disinfect in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (30 min) or in any fungicide solution. For faster root formation, the tuber is soaked in a heteroauxin solution for 18-24 hours (making sure that the solution does not get into the recess of the tuber), but this is not necessary. The tuber is planted in the ground with the depression upward and sprinkled with soil no more than 1 cm. There must be drainage at the bottom of the pot (foam plastic, expanded clay, crushed stone chips, etc.). The higher the pot, the more drainage (up to 1/3).
During the period of tuber germination there are always the greatest losses and they are associated with waterlogging of the soil, as a result of which the tuber rots. Since the development of roots is preceded by the formation of the above-ground part, watering should be very careful along the edge of the pot or into the tray and only until the soil is lightly moistened. To avoid unwanted losses I do this:
I plant the tuber in moist soil level with it, place the pot in a bag and place it in a bright place without direct sunlight (22-25 degrees). I ventilate once a day for 10-15 minutes. After the first pair of leaves appear, I open the top of the bag and accustom the young plant to room conditions 3-4 days, then I remove the package completely. As the stem grows, I add soil and cover the tuber by 1-2 cm. While the plant is in the bag, there is no need to water it, the soil remains evenly moist and loose, preserved high humidity air and warmth, roots grow faster and there is almost no loss.
Growing temperature
At the stage of tuber germination after a dormant period, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of about +25 degrees. After rooting and with the beginning of the growth of the vegetative mass, the temperature is reduced to +22 degrees during the day and +18 at night. Lowering the temperature is necessary so that in conditions of insufficient light (in February-March there is not enough light) the plants do not grow too rapidly and do not stretch out. The temperature does not need to be reduced, but in this case the plants need additional lighting.
During the growing season, the temperature should not fall below 18 degrees Celsius. Lower temperatures (from +15 - +20) slow down the growth and development of the plant. The optimal temperature for the growth and development of gloxinia ranges from +22 to +26 degrees.
During the active growing season, a short-term increase in temperature to +28 degrees is allowed, but at higher temperatures few buds are formed. If elevated temperatures will last for a long time, then gloxinia begins a period of stagnation, i.e. growth and development stop, and blooming flowers last no more than 3 days.
Thus, we can conclude that high temperatures for gloxinia are even more destructive than excess lighting.
Gloxinia line "Avanti"
Gloxinia line "Avanti"
Gloxinia line "Avanti"
Air humidity
Air humidity should be in the range of 70-80%, but gloxinia feels good even at a lower humidity of 50%, however, even lower humidity is undesirable, the plant develops poorly, growth slows down and deformation of the leaves occurs. The edges of the leaf blade are bent downwards.
To increase air humidity, you can place the plant on trays with wet expanded clay, moss, water, but gloxinia itself cannot be sprayed because brown, dry spots form. However, away from light and drafts, gloxinia tolerates very well water treatments. At night you can take it into the bathroom, spray or wash it warm water and leave it there behind closed doors and turn off the light until the water on the leaves dries completely.
Watering gloxinia
For irrigation, you need to use soft water (melt, rain, filtered or partially boiled), chlorinated tap water must first be left for at least a day.
It is better to water from a tray or carefully along the edge of the pot, avoiding water getting on the leaves and in the center of the tuber (where the sprouts come from). in most cases, not from the roots, but from above, from the growing point, the tuber begins to rot. The water for irrigation should be warm, but if gloxinia is at a temperature of +18 degrees, this does not mean at all that you need to water it with water at a temperature of +25 degrees, nothing good will come of it. The water should be 2-3 degrees higher than the ambient air temperature. 20-30 minutes after watering, drain the remaining water from the tray.
Between waterings you need to dry out the soil.
It is necessary to reduce the frequency of watering in rainy, cloudy and cold weather.
At this time, the soil does not dry out for a long time, and the roots can rot from excess moisture.
Feeding with fertilizers
After planting the tuber, there is no need to feed gloxinia for the first 1.5 - 2 months.
Fertilizers are applied an hour after the main watering, along the edges of the pot, making sure that the solution does not get on the leaves or at the growing point. It is advisable to do this in cloudy weather or in the evening, so that after feeding the plant is not in the sun.
Fertilizing with complete mineral fertilizer, alternated with organic fertilizers every two weeks, but the first feeding should be mineral.
Lack of iron in gloxinia (photo by Tideya)
You can feed once every 10 days, but then make the solution concentration weaker.
Before the buds appear, organic matter is alternated with nitrogen: (potassium nitrate, ammonium nitrate)
With the appearance of buds, organic matter is alternated with phosphorus: superphosphate, potassium phosphate), if this is not done, dormant vegetative buds will awaken, which will lead to a suspension of the normal development of the plant.
- Nitrogen fertilizers cause increased vegetative growth; in excess, flower buds are almost not formed. Excess nitrogen can also cause root rot. For this reason, nitrogen fertilizers are given only at the beginning of growth.
- Phosphorus fertilizers - enhance flowering, but their... excess causes premature aging of leaves and leads to chlorosis of the plant.
- Potassium fertilizers - improve flowering. Excess leads to the formation of shortened peduncles, yellowing of the lower leaves, and deterioration in the color of flowers.
- Microelements - affect the size of flowers, their color and the number of buds.
Organic fertilizers for tuberous flowers
Bird droppings
Manure is a very potent fertilizer and when using it, the concentration should be strictly observed. Pour 1 tablespoon of litter into 2 liters of water, close the lid and place in a warm and dark place. Over the next 3-4 days, stir with a stick until fermentation begins (bubbles appear on the surface). After the fermentation process is complete (about a week), the bubbles disappear, solid particles settle to the bottom of the jar, and the solution becomes lighter. It is now ready for use.
250 ml of concentrated solution is poured into 1 liter of water and mixed well; the plants are watered with this solution after preliminary moistening. (one hour after the main watering).
You can simply buy ready-made organic fertilizer.
Mineral fertilizer for tuberous flowers
for 10 liters of water take:
- 10 g simple superphosphate
- 10 g potassium chloride
- 4 g ammonium nitrate
- 5 g magnesium sulfate
- 0.1 g ferric chloride
- 0.07 g boric acid
- 0.004 g copper sulfate
- 0.05 g manganese sulfate
- 0.008 g of zinc sulfate.
If you can’t or are too lazy to look for everything separately, then just buy phosphorus-potassium mineral fertilizer and microelements.
I use Uniflor - flower, Uniflor-bud or Baby (dry, granulated for peppers and tomatoes) as phosphorus-potassium, Uniflor - growth, Uniflor - green leaf as nitrogen and Uniflor-micro as microelements.
After flowering, feed 2 times with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers with an interval of 14 days. This will help the tuber regain strength and survive the dormant period well.
Gloxinia flowering
In a properly grown plant, buds are formed after the third or fourth pair of leaves. Their quantity depends primarily on the mass of the tuber and growing conditions (light, temperature, humidity).
Gloxinia can bloom again (for example, hybrids "Avanti" and "Brocade") if the first flowering was early. In this case, the above-ground part (stem and leaves) is cut off, leaving a shoot about 2 cm high. Soon, gloxinia develops side shoots of the second generation (second growth) on which buds are laid, the plants bloom, but not as profusely as during primary flowering. Flowers are smaller in size.
Repeated flowering is not typical for all species and varieties of gloxinia; for example, the side shoots of the summer generation of the Kaiser Friedrich variety develop slowly, by the end of summer they manage to acquire leaves, but do not enter the budding and flowering phase.
The rest period of gloxinia
In the fall (September - October), when it is clear that the soil does not dry out for a long time after watering, watering is reduced, and after the leaves begin to turn yellow or dry out, they stop watering altogether. After the above-ground part of the plant completely dies off, the tuber goes into a dormant state, which lasts 3-4 months depending on the storage temperature.
Tubers are stored in several ways:
- The pot with the tuber is placed in a cool place with a temperature of +10 to +15 degrees. During the winter, the soil is slightly moistened several times so that the tubers do not dry out and become very wrinkled, especially if the tubers are small, they are stored worse because they dry out quickly. If the storage temperature is higher, then you need to moisten more often.
- 2 weeks after the above-ground mass has completely died, the tubers are dug up, cleaned of remaining roots and placed in damp sand and stored in a cool place. This method is convenient because at any time you can easily remove the tubers from the sand and inspect their condition.
I store it this way: I dig up the tubers, place them in damp sawdust or sand and store them on the bottom or middle shelf of the refrigerator door. Once a month I take out and inspect the tubers; if the sawdust dries out, I lightly moisten them and place the tubers there again.
According to literary data, as well as based on data from Internet resources, storage temperatures below +8 degrees are detrimental for gloxinia. Based on my many years of experience, I cannot agree with this, the refrigerator is only +5, but I have never had any losses. The main condition is not to over-moisten the substrate in which the tubers are stored; it should only be slightly damp, and the sand can be completely dry.
Reproduction of Gloxinia
Gloxinias are easily propagated by seeds, leaves and stem cuttings, part of the leaf blade, peduncle and division of the tuber.
Seed propagation is mainly for gloxinia species; you can get a lot of young plants at once and it is not advisable for varietal and hybrid ones; Splitting of traits may occur at the genetic level, which manifests itself in appearance plants. There is no guarantee that you will receive a plant with the original parental characteristics.
Sowing Gloxinia seeds
Sowing is carried out at the end of January - February (with mandatory additional lighting with fluorescent lamps) or in March.
Seeds germinate in the light, they are sown superficially on a moist substrate (the composition is the same as for planting tubers), lightly pressed against it and covered with glass or film. The bowl with the crops is placed in a bright place. At a temperature of 24-26 degrees, germination begins 12-14 days from the moment of sowing, at more low temperatures it lasts up to one month or even longer. Caring for crops comes down to maintaining temperature and humidity, preventing the soil from drying out. If there is a need to moisten the soil, this should be done from a pallet. There is no need to water from above because the seeds are small and can be easily washed off with water.
About a month after the appearance of the cotyledons, you can make the first pick, especially if the crops are thickened. They dive according to the 2*2 cm pattern into light soil. Another month, after the first pair of true leaves appear, the young plants are picked again or immediately planted in separate pots with a diameter of 6 cm (cactus). The temperature is maintained at least +20 degrees. Gloxinia tolerates picking well, and after it begins to grow intensively.
I do this: if the seeds are granular, I place them at a distance of 4*4 cm from each other in order to avoid picking in the cotyledon phase in the future. I put the bowl with the crops in a transparent cake box, and they remain there until 1-2 pairs of true leaves appear. After that, I plant them in separate pots and again put them in this mini greenhouse for 2 weeks for rooting and survival. In the future, I will accustom the room to the open air and, if necessary, transfer it to pots. bigger size. My seedlings bloom 4-5 months after germination.
Gloxinias grown from seeds may not have a dormant period in the first year, and will vegetate (continue to grow) all winter.
How to get gloxinia seeds
On the second day of flowering, after the flower blooms, take a soft brush and transfer the pollen to the stigma. The next day, to better guarantee pollination, repeat this procedure. If pollination has occurred, the perianth falls off after a few days, the ovary begins to grow, and with it the receptacle noticeably thickens. Former flower, and now the unripe fruit is dark green in color and does not dry out for a long time. Seed ripening lasts 1.5 - 2 months and it is uneven, i.e. the seeds do not ripen at the same time in the box. After the fruit (box) opens, bring a piece of paper and, tapping the peduncle, shake out the seeds. After a couple of days, collect the seeds again. The seeds are very small, dust-like. Germination remains for 2-3 years. Germination is good.
Normally, a plant should have no more than 3 seed capsules. If the plant is young or the tuber is of insufficient weight and size, limit yourself to one fruit and remove the excess ones.
Vegetative propagation of gloxinia
Vegetative propagation is the most common method; it is the simplest and most accessible. If rooting occurs in spring or in the first half of summer, then flowering can be seen from the resulting young plants in the same season.
Propagation of gloxinia by leaf cuttings
In the budding phase or during flowering, cut off the leaf of the lower tier of the rosette (young, upper leaves should not be taken). It is desirable that the petiole be short and thick; the size of the resulting tuber will depend on the diameter of the petiole. Next, you can do it in a way convenient for you:
- Immerse the cutting in water to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm and hold it until roots form (there is no need to change the water, just add if necessary), then plant it in the ground to a depth of 2-2.5 cm. For better survival of the cutting in the soil, it can be cover with a jar or bag.
- The cuttings are dipped in charcoal powder and planted in moist soil. Cover the top with a glass jar. At a temperature not lower than +22 degrees, rooting occurs within 2-3 weeks, then the jar can be removed. Little trick: if you only have one leaf and you need to get two tubers, split the base of the petiole lengthwise to a length of 1 - 1.5 cm; after rooting, 2 smaller nodules will form.
Propagation of gloxinia by stem cuttings
If a gloxinia tuber has many side shoots, leave 1-2 and break out the rest. Stem cuttings are essentially finished plants, but without roots. They are rooted in the same way as leafy ones and they bloom in the same season.
Reproduction of gloxinia by leaf blade
- Cut off the large leaf at the base of the rosette. On back side leaf blade, make cuts across the protruding veins in the thickest places. Place the sheet on moist soil, press it to the soil in the places where the cuts are made and cover it with a bag or place it in a greenhouse. Roots will soon appear in the places where the cuts are made, and then nodules will form. It is important to maintain high humidity.
- The leaf plate is cut crosswise into 2-3 parts depending on the size of the leaf and each part is planted in soil or sand, covered with a jar or bag to maintain moisture. Root at a temperature not lower than +22 degrees. Optimal is about +25.
Reproduction of gloxinia by peduncle
It should be mentioned that not all gloxinia varieties can be propagated in this way. Some varieties take root well with peduncles, while others do not take root at all.
After the corolla has withered, the peduncle is broken out and placed in 1 - 1.5 cm of water and care is taken that it does not touch the walls of the vessel. Do not change the water, add as it evaporates. After about a month, roots and a nodule form on it. After this, the peduncle is planted in moist soil to a depth of 1.5 - 2 cm. Care as for leaf cuttings.
Reproduction of gloxinia by tuber division
Large tubers that have more than two sprouts can be divided. The tuber is cut into pieces so that each of them contains at least one sprout. Sections of tuber parts are sprinkled with crushed charcoal, dry for 3-4 days in a dark place at room temperature and then planted in moist soil.
Further care is similar to caring for a whole tuber after planting.
Possible failures when growing gloxinia
A tuber has not formed - this can happen when planting a very long stem cutting or if the cutting was planted very deeply and was watered abundantly.
The buds turn black and die - the reason is a lack of micronutrients and shortened daylight hours.
Redness of the leaves is a lack of phosphorus.
Yellowing of leaves - lack of nitrogen or excessive watering.
Leaf discoloration is a magnesium deficiency.
Curling leaves - insufficient air humidity.
Spotting (non-infectious). The leaves are yellow or brown spots indefinite form - too bright lighting, drafts or watering with cold water.
Curling of flowers, slowing down of plant growth - temperature below +15 degrees.
Curling of the edges of the leaves and their arching, the formation of deformed flowers and shortened pedicels - excess moisture in the soil.
Rotting of petioles and buds - excessive soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizers, waterlogging of the soil.
The plant does not bloom - insufficient lighting, lack of nutrition, dry or cold air, improper maintenance during the dormant period, excess nitrogen fertilizers.
Gloxinia diseases
- Tuber rotting. Occurs when overwatering. At the initial stage, the disease is manifested by a decrease in leaf turgor; after watering, turgor is not restored. If the tuber is severely damaged, gloxinia droops completely. Leaf cuttings need to be cut and re-rooted. If the tuber has rotted away from the growing point, then the rotten parts are cut off to healthy tissue, disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate or another fungicide, powdered with crushed coal and dried for 2-3 days, after which they are planted again in moist soil.
- Late blight. It is the most common disease of the Gesneriaceae family. It develops quickly and leads to the sudden death of gloxinia. It begins with slight wilting, then the growth of the stem stops and its color changes. After watering, the leaves wither even more, the base of the stem begins to rot, spreading to the petioles and leaves. An attempt to preserve the plant is unsuccessful; cut leaf cuttings do not take root and quickly turn black and rot. The plant must be destroyed along with the soil.
- Fusarium. The plant becomes infected through the soil. Leaves turn brown, curl and wilt. Dark stripes and cracks form on the stem. The defeat of a plant by fusarium is promoted by excessive watering and constant soil moisture.
Pests on Gloxinia
Most often, gloxinias are affected by thrips and red spider mites.
Process systemic insecticides in a place protected from light and drafts (spray the plant itself, spill the soil). After the moisture from the gloxinia leaves has dried completely, you can put it in place. The procedure is well tolerated.
Gloxinia is one of the most popular and beautiful indoor plants in the world. This wide use gloxinia, caring for which at home does not cause great difficulties, was obtained thanks to decorative flowers various colors and shapes. Surely every passionate gardener has at least once thought about purchasing this miracle. How to grow gloxinia at home? How to properly care for her? What soils does Sinningia like? We will answer these and many other questions in this review.
The species is named after the German botanist Benjamin Peter Gloksin, who was the first to cultivate this strange plant from the other side of the world in Europe. The second father of gloxinia was another German botanist, Wilhelm Sinning, who became seriously involved in its selection and hybridization. As a result, gloxinia became a houseplant.
Types and varieties
Gloxinia is a tropical perennial herb. The flower grows wild in Mexico and South America, from where European colonialists brought it to the Old World in the second half of the 19th century. The peculiarity of its root system is the presence of a pronounced tuber, which during the wintering period can even be dug up and stored cool until spring, like potatoes. The leaves, growing from the root in the form of a rosette, are soft, fleshy, covered with small hairs. The stem is short but thick. Gloxinia flowers vary depending on the variety.
The most common types of gloxinia:
- Royal (purple flowers);
- Avante (white petals);
- Tigrina Red (bright red);
- Hollywood (dark purple);
- Yesenia (pink velvet flowers);
- Kaiser Wilhelm (black and purple flowers with a white border);
- Blanche De Meru (elongated pink flowers);
- Shagane (domestic variety with bright purple small flowers);
- Anfisa (pink petals with white spots).
Gloxinia: basic requirements for cultivation
Caring for gloxinia is not as difficult as caring for some other green pets. She loves properly selected soil, moderate watering and sunlight.
Requirements for soil and pot
Plant a flower in soil made up of 1 part turf land, 1 part leaf humus, 1 part simple garden soil and 1 part sand, preferably coarse river sand. If it is not possible to provide such a variety of substrates, then soil taken from a meadow, from under a linden or birch tree, as well as - purchased composition, which is best diluted with ordinary soil in a one to one ratio. Sometimes adding a small amount of sawdust or perlite to the mixture is justified. The decision to add disintegrants is made based on the consistency of the resulting soil. It should be light, breathable and crumbly.
An important condition is provision good drainage. There must be a hole in the bottom of the pot. At 15-25% of the height, the pot should be filled with pebbles, crushed stone, fragments of pottery, or at least small stones.
Ideally, water should wet the soil well, be easily absorbed and flow freely from the drainage hole.
Watering, fertilizing and fertilizing
In terms of fertilizers, gloxinia is not too demanding. Theoretically, it can not be fertilized at all, but then it is unlikely to please the owners with abundant flowering. During spring and summer, you can apply universal complex fertilizers for indoor plants from time to time, but not more than twice a month. Feeding should be stopped in mid-August, due to the approaching cold season.
As for watering, it is important to observe the measure. Young plants, whose root system has not yet completely engulfed the earthen ball, are prone to root rot and fungal diseases. However, even adult specimens often suffer from the flood. The best way To avoid this, lay drainage at the bottom of the pot and correctly compose an earthen mixture, which will be discussed later. If possible, it is better to water the flower with warm water.
Optimal conditions of detention
Another feature of gloxinia: unlike many other indoor plants, it does not need spraying, although it loves moist air and grows somewhat faster if there are many sources of moisture evaporation around it. Unfortunately, the benefit of several bowls of water is almost imperceptible. It’s better to place gloxinia on a windowsill where others are already placed houseplants: green leaves release moisture well. If desired, you can add moss to some large pots.
Gloxinia prefers not direct light, but diffused light, but quite intense and long-lasting. A great option is to place the pot in a south, east or west window behind a very thin or mesh curtain. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, especially coupled with careless watering, can leave sunburn on the leaves. For this reason, try to water at the root rather than sprinkling.
Do not place the plant where there may be drafts. When overcooled, the leaves become drooping, as if limp. If they lose their saturated green color, then this may indicate either overcooling of the root system, or rotting processes that have begun in the soil.
If the buds do not bloom, drafts and cold water may be the cause.
If possible, it is better to keep gloxinia in the winter months in a cool, bright room with a temperature of +10... +17 degrees. This will allow the tuber to rest, gain strength and “shoot” in the spring, which increases the chances of abundant and beautiful bloom. Just don’t be afraid of the leaves falling off when you move the plant into a cool place: as winter recedes, new shoots will grow from the tuber.
Pruning and replanting
Contrary to erroneous claims, you should not cut off almost all the leaves - there is simply no point in doing so. It is argued that after radical pruning, stepsons begin to grow from the tuber, which in the future should bloom profusely. This is not entirely true. The stepchildren, of course, will grow up, but you can do without these sacrifices. But excessive removal of leaves is fraught with rotting of the roots, which will have nothing to nourish. By the way, towards the end of summer it is often possible to achieve a second wave of flowering, which, however, is not as intense as the first.
When replanting, the size of the container is selected to match the volume of the root system. Newly rooted leaves are planted in the smallest pots. For older plants, select a container whose volume is equal to or slightly larger than the volume occupied by straightened roots. Intensively growing specimens are transferred to a slightly larger container every year at the beginning of the growing season.
Remember: a pot that is too large is a risk factor in terms of flooding and rotting of the root system!
Gloxinia has faded, what to do next?
Blooms from March to August. The gloxinia flower lasts for about a month, after which the shriveled peduncle can be safely cut off. When gloxinia has faded, not everyone knows what to do next. The first thing you need to do when flowering ends is to remove the remains of flowers, weak and too “fat” leaves. The latter, by the way, can be used for reproduction.
Work on mistakes
What to do if mistakes are made in caring for gloxinia? With progressive signs of flooding and rotting of the roots, the flower needs to be replanted. You need to take it out of the pot, clean it from the soil, remove rotten roots and too weak leaves and plant it in new light soil. The “reanimation” soil composition should contain more coarse sand and disintegrants than the standard one. After this, the plant is watered moderately, hermetically covered with a transparent plastic bag and stored in partial shade until it begins to grow. You can ventilate the mini-greenhouse 1-2 times a week. If the outcome is favorable, it can be gradually removed.
How to calculate rotted roots? They are diagnosed based on several signs, and let's start with the most obvious. If the root easily comes off the taproot, it means it is 100% rotten. If it does not come off completely, but seems to be peeling off, then this is also a sure sign of its death. Such a root is cut either to a healthy part or to the branching point. Less obvious signs are black or dark brown color roots and putrid odor. Healthy parts are light brown or even White color. In advanced cases, the root system rots so much that nothing remains of it. The only option in this case is to take the remaining leaves and try to root them.
Features of reproduction
In practice, propagation of gloxinia is most easily accomplished by leaf cuttings. Less often they resort to sowing seeds and dividing the tuber.
Reproduction of Gloxinia by leaf
For this purpose, a large mature leaf is cut from the plant. It is recommended to shorten the petiole to a length of 1.5-2 cm to avoid rotting. After this, the leaf is planted in moist coarse sand and placed in an airtight mini-greenhouse. Instead of coarse sand, you can also use fine quarry sand, but it is slightly less preferable. In this form, the leaf takes about 1 month to sprout small roots. When they reach a length of 1-2 cm, you can move the plant to a small pot with soil. At first, you should still keep the sheet under cover, only not airtight, but with a small hole. As the leaf gets used to the dry room air you can increase the gap, and after 2 weeks the film can be removed. Around this time, a rosette of small leaves should shoot out from the base of the petiole. This means that gloxinia propagation was successful! In the future, it is important to ensure that you do not overwater the young plant, which at this age is especially sensitive to waterlogging.
Seed propagation
You can grow gloxinia from seeds, but it is important to know that they germinate for a very long time: from 4 to 9 months. Small shoots develop slowly. To achieve success in this matter, it is recommended to plant the seeds in light sandy soil and hermetically cover them with plastic film. It should be removed gradually as soon as most of the seeds have sprouted.
Tuber division
This method is the most difficult and risky, since there is a danger of causing the tuber to rot after cutting it. It is recommended to divide dormant large tubers that do not have rot or damage. It is better to cut them into no more than two parts. The cut areas are sprinkled with coal.
Stem cuttings
Gloxinia can also be propagated by stem cuttings, but this method is complicated by the fact that their length is very short. Therefore, they rarely resort to it. The technology is the same as for rooting leaves: the cutting is placed in coarse-grained wet sand and hermetically covered with a mini-wig. The appearance of the first roots can be expected in a month.
Pests, diseases and treatments
Gloxinia is rarely affected by pests. Sometimes she gets attacked by red spider mite. These insects look like small red dots on the surface of the leaf blade. Under no circumstances should they be allowed to reproduce! First, you can try to remove the tick with Fitoverm, but if there is too much of it, you will have to resort to more powerful means: Omite, Oberon, Sunmite.
Among diseases, gloxinia often suffers from root rot. This is treated by replacing the earthen clod and watering the plant with a weak solution of Fitosporin.
In general, growing gloxinia on a windowsill does not cause much trouble. This is beautiful ornamental plant With beautiful flowers, which with proper care have a more saturated color. Gloxinia is always happy to repay for a good attitude towards itself with abundant and lush flowering.